Scottsdale Food Guide: Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

July 1, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 34 comments

Disclaimer: Some (but not all) of the experiences listed here were hosted in partnership with Experience Scottsdale. Food and drink opinions are of course very opinionated – and completely my own!

As I looked into the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale – and there are a ton – one question kept crossing my mind: Why is the food in Scottsdale, Arizona so good?

The answer that came to light over a week spent in town and snippets of conversation with servers, restaurateurs, and locals is actually quite simple.

If you’re a chef in the west and want to make a name for yourself, some of the big food cities – like Las Vegas, San Francisco, and Los Angeles – are very expensive and high-risk ventures. So what do you do?

Open a restaurant in Scottsdale!

To incubate your idea, tweak your dishes and concept, and build up an even stronger proposal for making the jump to a bigger city foodie scene.

And Scottsdale just happens to be THE DESTINATION for a lot of these restaurants, as talented chefs looking to make a name for themselves feed you excellent food along the way.

Of course, not all chefs are looking to leave.

The local food movement has also been taking hold in this area, with chefs using locally sourced produce from the nearly year-round growing seasons and showcasing Arizona ingredients.

Even Arizona locals in the area – who don’t live in Phoenix or Scottsdale already – know that if they are looking for a great meal, Old Town Scottsdale is the place to go.

And one of the first things I realized looking for the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale is that Old Town Scottsdale is bigger than you think.

It doesn’t cover all parts of the city (the lovely Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows where I stayed for part of my trip is a bit outside its borders) but most of the outstanding eating establishments with the best food in Scottsdale you’ll find within its confines.

My overall impression eating and drinking my way through Old Town Scottsdale is that is does basic, simple cuisine and upscale casual really well. (I had one fancy meal and honestly wasn’t wowed by it.)

There are also a shockingly large number of delicious bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

In walking distance of Old Town Scottsdale, you can drink your way through breweries, wine tasting rooms (including an urban wine trail!), a distillery, and multiple acclaimed cocktail spots.

Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale

Organized alphabetically in each section – one for restaurants and another for bars – my picks for the best restaurants and best bars in Old Town Scottsdale are not mutually exclusive.

Of course some of these Scottsdale foodie spots had delicious coffee or cocktails to go with their incredible bites, which I’ve noted below.

The places I’d seek out just for their beverages though – from coffee bars to cocktails bars – are listed in the next section (although some of those spots also serve food).

I did a ton of research, asked plenty of locals, and used my traveler sixth sense to seek out the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale and eat as much as I could of the best food in Scottsdale during my visit.

READ MORE: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

And even then, not everywhere I ate wowed me enough to make it into this post.

You would not believe the amount of eating I did in a week – this is the short list Scottsdale Food Guide with the places that I am still dreaming about back at home!

Now for the most delicious Scottsdale bites I enjoyed over a week in town:

Citizen Public House

Citizen Public House picked up several new restaurant accolades when it opened in 2011, like being named a “New Restaurant Not to Miss” in Esquire magazine, with some good company in Charleston’s Husk and Chicago’s Girl & the Goat.

Not only is it cozy and lively on a random weeknight several years in, the welcoming vibe is backed up by the quality of the food and drink.

In addition to some creative craft cocktails with unusual ingredients like kiwifruit simple syrup and tobacco bitters, there are also half a dozen barrel-aged cocktails (and I don’t think I’ve ever seen more than one or two on a single menu before).

Foodwise there are upscale versions of traditional dishes, including interesting combinations like pork belly pastrami, amaro meatloaf, and the pan-seared scallops I enjoyed with a cola gastrique.

While all of the food dishes were excellent, it was one of the appetizers that stole the show for me: “The Original Chopped Salad,” a dish so famous it has its own Facebook page.

Originally crafted at the now shuttered Cowboy Ciao and known then as the “Stetson Chopped Salad,” this combination of pearl couscous, Asiago cheese, arugula, pepitas, dried currants, dried corn, smoked salmon, and a buttermilk dressing was shockingly good and quite memorable, with so many layers of flavor and textures combining to form a bite that made me swoon and feel as if I was eating the best salad I’ve had in my life. And I’m not even a salad person!

There’s a reason this chopped salad has a following. I’d go back to Citizen Public House anyway, but I’d *rush* to go back for this dish.

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Diego Pops

The tacos at this Mexican restaurant definitely hit the spot, although were not as memorable for me as the appetizers and drinks.

I’d come back in a heartbeat though for either of the appetizers I sampled.

First, they do a version of Grilled Street corn that is topped with the more common toppings of cotija cheese and lime, then pushed from good to an all out umami-bomb by the addition of crushed flamin’ hot cheetos, which provided just the right amount of crunch and MSG-addictiveness.

Of course, the corn was not to be outdone by what is possibly the signature dish – the Brussels sprout nachos.

I hated brussel sprouts as a kid and love them as an adult, and this version has nachos (yum), topped with brussel sprouts (I’m already sold), and then pushed over to top by a fried egg that makes this feel incredibly indulgent – even as you eat your veggies.

The incredible food spread was then washed down with some excellent cocktails.

In my case, the prickly pear margarita which was just the right amount of tart and sweet. Between the distinctive flavor and familiar bright pink hue, I felt transported back to my travels in Malta, where prickly pear grows on the side of the road with abandon.

There are also sno-cone margaritas (!!) that I hear are more sweet, and come in watermelon lime and mango habanero flavors.

READ MORE: Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta

Farm & Craft | food + affection + community

Any place that serves breakfast until 3pm is my kind of place.

While all of the dishes sounds simple enough (and quite healthy), the ingredients are so fresh that it really delivers on flavor and you forget it’s supposed to be good for you.

I ordered the innocuous sounding breakfast sandwich with fried egg, avocado, cheddar, and chicken sausage on a flax whole wheat bun.

Anytime I read the words flax or whole wheat, I usually high-tail it in the opposite direction, but I didn’t even remember what was in the bun because the flavors were so buttery and unctuous as I slowly savored each bite.

I enjoyed it with the equally good house-made lavender lemonade, and there are plenty of other fruity concoctions as well as cocktails, wine, and beer.

FnB

While the accolades of this restaurant are too numerous to mention, the recent naming of FnB’s chef Charleen Badman as “2019 Best Chef – Southwest” by the James Beard Foundation is notable as she is the first Arizona chef to win in over a decade.

Known as the “veggie whisperer,” Badman delivers on the promise by highlighting some of the freshest produce from Arizona’s many growing seasons.

Yes, the menu is vegetable-forward but dishes with fish and meat are just as delicious.

Standouts from the vast spread I enjoyed on my recent visit included a citrus-cured salmon with buttermilk, cucumber, and flower petals and a simple dish of local fresh apricots with ricotta, almonds, and balsamic honey.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re having trouble getting a dinner reservation in the wake of the James Beard award win, head next door to FnBar, where you can also indulge in the full dinner menu from 5pm on.

Rehab Burger Therapy

The burgers at Rehab Burger Therapy have been named the best burger in Arizona many times over – a well-deserved accolade, by the way – but it is really the whole experience that made this a standout spot.

From the décor to amazingly friendly service from enthusiastic, passionate server Salyna to all of the amazing food combinations that make its way into every burger they serve.

In addition to the creative burger concoctions, you can also choose your burger size (small for me), bun type (I got the pretzel bun), side dish (I got sweet potato tots), and rehab sauce of choice (garlic sriracha aioli for me).

On Salyna’s recommendation, I ordered the Spicy Mac n’ Cheese burger that also was my favorite, and overflowing with the comfort of mac n’cheese while still delivering strong flavors from the sauce and burger itself.

As part of a food-curious group, I also got to sample several of the other burgers, with the poblano being my second-favorite for the intense flavor of the poblano pepper that was great paired with the beef.

In addition to our main burgers, our group also ordered the Elvis burger, which has been their best seller for 7 years, and combines some of the The King’s favorite flavors, with the burger coming on a chocolate chip banana bun with peanut butter, chocolate bacon, and caramelized bananas. Yes, it is a savory burger that also involves PB, but it’s not as weird as you might think.

Sweet Dee’s Bakeshop

Don’t get me wrong, the toasted marshmallow latte was divine, but this bakeshop is squarely in my food category for all of its amazing traditional baked goods and twists on some classics.

I was fortunate to visit the week of Sweet Dee’s first birthday celebration, and got to enjoy a host of birthday-themed treats, including mini cupcakes and the over-the-top birthday cake doughnut.

Yes, they took birthday cake THEN battered and fried it into a doughnut!

While I was busy indulging my sweet tooth, I heard about their savory doughnut.

Basically it is an eggs benedict in doughnut form! Inside the doughnut is a poached egg, Canadian bacon, and house hollandaise.

While I didn’t have enough of an appetite to justify ordering the savory doughnut too (although I did consider it!) between the incredibly baked items I did enjoy and the incredibly friendly staff, this spot is top of my foodie list for my next trip to Old Town Scottsdale.

The Mission Old Town

The Mission Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Photo by Rebecca of Rebecca and the World

They say that both food and service are important to a restaurant experience, but if you only get one, good service is the quality that gets you returning.

I’m happy to report that in the case of The Mission Old Town – like fellow restaurant The Fat Ox listed below – they delivered both excellent food and outstanding service.

It’s not often that when I go wandering in search of the ladies room, that there is someone who immediately spots me and walks me all the way to the door to ensure I find it.

It was the little touches that elevated my service experience at The Mission from great to exceptional.

In addition to the wonderful service throughout the meal, the food was delicious, which is the part that landed this spot on my list of best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale.

As for the food the most memorable bites for me were the excellently-executed table-side guacamole and the grilled street corn with a tangy, spicy sauce that was addictive.

The drinks were also incredible, and The Mission treated our group to small tastes of several of their best ones.

The House Specialty called “The Missionary” was a perfect – and colorful – mix of their house margarita and red sangria. There was my full drink, the shockingly creamy avocado margarita, which I’ve never seen or had before and thoroughly enjoyed. Then at the end of the meal, a creamy dessert cocktail came along with churros and dipping sauce, which was a perfect end to a stellar Scottsdale food experience.

Zuzu Restaurant at Hotel Valley Ho

I don’t usually frequent restaurants at hotels other than where I’m staying, but there were a few good reasons to seek out Zuzu Restaurant anyway.

This spot wasn’t on my list for savory dishes, but I am so glad that the timing worked out to meet fellow travel blogger Alley for brunch as well as dessert at Zuzu.

I ordered what sounded like the most typical local breakfast dish, called planks and eggs, with sweet potato “planks,” pulled short ribs, a fried egg, cotija cheese, lime crema, and crispy fried tortilla strips.

To my surprise, the dish also came with a soft flour tortilla as a side too, which might have been the best flour tortilla I’ve *ever* had.

It was clearly made with love and had such great flavor even though it was basically plain bread.

But the original draw to this spot was the dessert that beyond lived up to its name – The “Show Stopper” Shake.

Even though I had seen pictures online before I arrived, this shake is a whole lot more than a milkshake and is even bigger in person than I expected.

The flavor combinations change monthly, and I was lucky enough to be there for a Hawaiian-themed shake shortly after my Hawaii travels. Sure, there was a milkshake, but mine was also topped with a pineapple upside down cake, passion fruit tart, and orange creamsicle – plus a side of chopped fruit, coconut macaroon, and orange gelatin slices.

Definitely order this giant and fun concoction with a friend . . . or several!

Show Stopper shake at Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Photo Credit: Alley of Travel Tribe Guides

Show Stopper shake at Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Showstopper Shake Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Photo Credit: Alley of Travel Tribe Guides

While the service was sadly just mediocre, the food was so good that it was a fabulous final food experience to end my time in Scottsdale.

Best Bars in Old Town Scottsdale

The word “bar” can mean lots of things. This round-up shares my picks for the top bars in Old Town Scottsdale, from coffee bars to brewery bars to wine bars to cocktail bars.

So whatever your drinking preferences, there’s something for you below:

Cartel Coffee Lab

Cartel had the best coffee I enjoyed in my week in Old Town Scottsdale. They take their coffee quite seriously, and my cortado had rich coffee flavor and aroma with a super smooth milky topping that was great for refueling right in the heart of town.

While I was on my way to lunch when I popped in and was unable to linger, the space was inviting with long tables perfect for catching up with a friend or hunkering down to get some work done.

Goldwater Brewing Co.

This is my kind of family business.

For a craft brewery, there is a huge available selection of in-house brews to order at the bar. And if you’re indecisive (or just enjoy trying a lot of different beers) like me, you can order any 4 beers as a flight.

The iconic beer here is the Desert Rose cactus ale, made with prickly pear from local cacti.

While sold out as you can see on the menu sheet, our server Parker was kind enough to give us an impromptu tour of the operation and a sample of the next batch of Desert Rose, which while not quite ready yet, is already delicious.

Goldwater Brewing Company Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Impromptu brewery tour with Parker of Goldwater Brewing Company, Kay of Jetfarer, Jennifer of National Park Obsessed, Theresa of The Local Tourist, and Janet of Go! Learn Things

LDV Winery

While I visited all 4 winery tasting rooms that are on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, LDV (Lawrence Dunham Vineyards) Winery tasting room was my definite favorite.

And the only one that made my list of top bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

Like the other wine trail spots, LDV Winery has its actual vineyards a several hour drive away in the Wilcox area of Arizona, with a similar elevation to Argentina. Especially since was my first wine tasting stop in Old Town Scottsdale, I was fortunate to have Tasting Room Manager Sherylann as an excellent guide to their history and selections.

My top sips were some of the red wines – a 2013 Grenache (which I bought) and both the 2013 and 2014 Petite Syrah, even though the two vintages tasted a bit different from one another.

Another reason to be sure to stop in – delicious regular and infused local olive oils and vinegars that are available for sale, and also to taste!

Merkin Vineyards Old Town Scottsdale

I knew about the Dave Matthews and Donald Trump wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia, but I had no idea that Maynard James (MJ) Keenan – most famous as the lead singer for bands Tool and A Perfect Circle – was another celebrity winemaker.

Merkin Vineyards has only had a presence in Old Town Scottsdale since March of 2019, and unlike the four wineries on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, this spot is more of a wine bar than a tasting room.

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia

Apparently MJ Keenan only recently discovered that he is descended from Northern Italian winemakers, and is embracing that heritage as he grows mostly Italian (and Spanish and French) grape varietals.

As part of a hosted event, I was lucky enough to share sips with three fellow travel bloggers. So after a couple of rounds, we had basically tried most of the available selections!

My top sips were the bold red wines – including the Garnacha and Tempranillo – along with some of the blends.

There were also some really delicious platters of food, with simple ingredients packing huge flavor in true Italian style.

It is both for the wine and incredibly flavorful dishes available that Merkin Vineyards was one of my favorite bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While Merkin Vineyards does not officially offer wine flights, you can create your own wine tasting if you go at less crowded times on weekdays before 5pm.

This wine bar in Old Town Scottsdale is also a family affair, with Maynard’s dad’s farm growing much of the produce for the simple and delectable bites available.

All enjoyed to one of Maynard’s eight personally curated music playlists for the venue – featuring, of course, lots of tracks from Tool.

Second Story

Located on the Second Story of a building in the heart of Old Town, this is one of the bars in Old Town Scottsdale that hits the spots at the end of the night.

I don’t usually order off-menu for my first cocktail at a new place, but I was feeling feisty and – as is the sign of a great bar – my relatively vague instructions led to a delicious ginger whiskey sour.

I liked the balance of spicy and smooth so much that I sipped especially slowly to make it last.

Second Story also has quite an elegant feel when you walk inside, which I wasn’t expecting.

The other part I did not realize until I went is that it is basically a whiskey- and bourbon-centric bar, with over 300 whiskeys on premises.

They also have a food menu, with full dinner options as well as happy hour bites.

One Place Outside of Old Town Scottsdale Worth the Trek

Trek is a bit of an exaggeration as this spot is a mere 2 miles from the waterfront in Old Town Scottsdale, and will take less than 10 minutes in a car and under $10 by ride share if you don’t have a vehicle of your own.

It’s not the only place I ate at outside of Old Town, but it’s the only one I’d go back to.

The Fat Ox

I was still feeling a bit hungry after one of the evening events for Bloghouse Scottsdale (I have a big appetite, what can I say?) and this restaurant was close to where I was staying at the Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows.

You can tell a lot about a restaurant based on how they greet a solo female diner, and at The Fat Ox it was done just the right way – business as usual.

The hosts at the stand were gracious and welcoming, and the whole restaurant was buzzing with lively conversation, so I happily strolled to one of the few empty spots at the bar.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

After 3 years of living in Italy, I am always a bit skeptical of going to an Italian restaurant in the US, but I was pleasantly surprised at how good the food was.

I ordered the Malloreddus Lamb Verde, a seasonal fresh pasta dish with a perfect balance of flavors and textures between the lamb, olives, pecorino cheese, mint, and chopped almonds .

Even though the panna cotta was a little on the sweet side for me overall, the fruity foam and crunch with the garnish on top made for a delicious bite as well.

Bartender Brian provided excellent service and conversation (no, he didn’t know I was a travel blogger until the end of the meal) and he perfectly crafted the fun-named “Sage Against the Machine” cocktail for me, with tequila, sage-infused agave, and a lambrusco (Italian sparkling red wine) float that I enjoyed with my dishes.

Even if you’re staying in Old Town Scottsdale, which is a few miles away, it is definitely worth the trip to enjoy a meal here.

And be sure that whenever you plan your trip to Scottsdale, come hungry!

Looking to book a room in Scottsdale? Check out these great spots!

Bespoke Inn – A splurge & my favorite place I stayed in Old Town

Hyatt Place Scottsdale/Old Town – Best Value for Money & Central Location

Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows – Posh resort I enjoyed north of Old Town (and close to The Fat Ox restaurant!)

Are there any questions about the Scottsdale food scene that I haven’t answered yet? What spots on this Scottsdale Food Guide are your favorites? Any other recommendations of restaurants or bars I should try on my next visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips

February 7, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Malta felt like it was on my bucket list forever.

At a short, direct plane ride from Milan, going never seemed urgent during the three years I lived in Italy. Which meant that I never went!

Fast forward to an autumn European trip I was planning after moving back to the US, and I knew Malta was a destination I definitely wanted to include on my visit.

The biggest question I got – “Why are you going to Malta?”

Apparently most people know very little about this small group of islands south of Sicily, so I wanted my first blog post about Malta to be filled with all the incredible reasons to go!

Top Reasons To Visit Malta

It’s Affordable

Even though Malta has become popular as a cruise ship port and with other European tourists, it is still quite affordable. You can get a pretty good tasting menu at a restaurant for around €30 or less, which is always a great marker for me of how much things cost. Street food is dirt cheap.

It’s even affordable to get there, with many discount flights arriving from all over Europe. Plus, there are plenty of reasonable accommodation options for your stay.

Save up to 30% on your hotel on your next upcoming trip!!

Cute Fishing Villages

Yes, this is just as picturesque as you’re imagining! Traditional fishing villages have remained from ancient times and can be spotted by their traditionally painted boats. You’ll see some of the luzzu with a painted eye on each side due to the Phoenician custom to ward off evil and protect fishermen at sea.

Forts to Explore

The islands of Malta, once part of the British Empire and now part of the Commonwealth, have held strategic importance in the Mediterranean for millenia. So it’s not surprising that it is a country with plenty of fortifications you can still visit today dotting its coastline, from massive forts to fortified lookout towers.

It’s even been sometimes known as ‘Fortress Island’ due to the number of forts and its safe, natural harbors for ships.

Maltese Food

You know I’d go pretty much anywhere if I heard good things about the food! As an island nation that changed hands many times in history, Maltese cuisine includes Spanish, French, Italian, and other Mediterranean influences.

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Rabbit is considered to be the national dish and another local favorite is pastizzi, a palm-sized flaky pastry typically filled with cheese or a pea mixture. And the desserts will make you swoon – my favorite was imqaret, an Arabic-inspired pastry filled with a date spread.

Coastline Dotted with Caves and Pools

The rocky coast of Malta lends itself to caves that have been carved out by crashing waves, or indentations in the rock that form natural pools.

These are worth the effort to seek out as they are often not as crowded as the beaches and are beautiful places to explore and swim.

Ancient Stone Cities

Part of Malta’s heavy fortifications mean that there are also walled, stone cities throughout. Most famous are the coastal capital Valletta and Mdina in the center, which served as Malta’s capital through medieval times.

The results have stood for centuries and are beautiful to visit today.

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

Wine Culture & Visiting Wineries

Yes, Malta has wine! Delicious wine that you’re unlikely to have tasted if you’ve never been. I visited two wineries on my trip and had great tours and tastings at both.

Even without going to a winery, you’ll be able to sample a variety of Maltese wines by the glass, half-bottle, carafe, and bottle at your meals each day. While familiar grapes are grown in Malta, there are also some delicious indigenous grapes like Ghirgentina (a white) and Gellewza (for red wine), both delicious varietals blended or on their own.

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Beaches

The archipelago of Malta is composed of islands, so there are plenty of beaches to enjoy nearby wherever you decide to stay. Since the landscape is inclined toward creating natural harbors, all of the beaches I visited had stunning and dramatic views of the Maltese coastline.

The swimming was lovely too, of course.

Impressive Archaeological Sites

From the 6,000 year old prehistoric burial site known as the Hypogeum to ancient temples and catacombs, archaeological sites are located all over Malta, and provide an interesting window into this region’s past.

St. Paul's Catacombs in Rabat — St. Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat

If you like history or are fascinated by ancient cultures and traditions, there are plenty of spots to explore all over Malta.

Sunsets

There have been some places I’ve seen in my travels where the sunset is gorgeous and colorful nearly every night. And Malta is one of those places.

Wherever you are on the island, know when the sun will be going down so you can plan to be outside and watch the show. Malta had some of my favorite sunsets of the whole year!

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2018

Sunset at St. Julian's Bay — Sunset at St. Julian’s Bay

Outdoor Activities

The landscape of Malta is both dramatic and beautiful, and there are many way to take advantage of the great outdoors. There are interior hiking trails and also rocky coastal walks that link different beaches.

Malta is also known for one of my favorite sports, rock climbing, and has incredible limestone to climb on both Malta and Gozo. There are plenty of other outdoor adventure opportunities like cycling and diving as well.

Boats, Boats, Boats!

I love seeing boats and traveling by boat, and being on Malta with its many harbors provides plenty of chances to do both. There is a functional ferry to get between Sliema and the capital Valletta, as well as ferries and tours departing from many main spots around Malta, Gozo, and Comino. Even if boat travel is not your thing, plenty of boats will be docked and provide beautiful views along Malta’s coast.

Top Tips for When You Go

Transportation

The main thing you’ll want to know about getting around Malta is that there is lots of traffic! Traditional rush hours are the worst, but there always seem to be a lot of vehicles on the road and often bus delays.

If you decide on taking public transit (like I did), it is easy to purchase your bus pass from the public transit stand next to the Costa Coffee and by the exit from the airport – either from a person or the machine.

There is an Explore Card that is just for the bus and an ExplorePlus Card that also includes a round-trip ticket on the Valletta ferry and either a day on a hop-on hop-off bus around the island or a boat to the Maltese island of Comino. More details and prices are HERE.

TIP! The two downsides for me of riding the bus were the delays that made it hard for transferring bus lines and also when rush hour buses from Sliema to Valletta were so crowded they did not stop to let additional passengers on.

If you don’t love walking as much as I do (or are not as patient) you’ll probably want to rent a car for your time in Malta.

TIP! Be aware that if you’d like to take the car to one of the other islands, ferry space for a car can be quite limited and you’ll want to arrange this in advance or arrive very early to queue.

In either case, when you first arrive, a taxi is likely your easiest option to arrive at your accommodation, and there are set prices for each destination. My taxi trip from the aiport to Sliema (across the water from Valletta) was €20.

Traveling Solo

Malta is a great destination for traveling solo, especially since pretty much everyone speaks English, as a former British colony and now part of the Commonwealth. I was there for 5 nights on my own and had an easy time navigating and taking advantage of the different sights and activities around Malta, including getting a reservation for 1 at many of the restaurants. Malta is also very affordable, so even when you’re not splitting the cost of a room, it doesn’t break the bank to make the trip.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Eating and Drinking

For whatever reason, tasting menus are plentiful around Malta, which was wonderful for me as a solo traveler who likes to try as many dishes as possible when I travel!

TIP! A lot of restaurants have a small capacity, so be sure to reserve ahead of time, even if it’s just earlier in the day for that same evening.

TIP! Making a reservation is necessary, even as a solo traveler!

While you might not be able to pick out the small archipelago of Malta on a map (you should go look!) there is so much see, do, and enjoy on the various islands. Now, go plan that trip!

Happy travels!
Lana

Have you been to Malta? What were the highlights for you? What types of activities do you look for most in your travels?

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Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California

March 29, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

The word ‘Napa’ for many is synonymous with fine American wine and there is no shortage of excellent wineries to explore in California’s Napa and Sonoma Valleys.

Of course, the sheer number of choices can be a bit overwhelming. Fortunately for you, I’ve done endless hours of research and then spent a lot of hours over several trips tasting my way through many of the wineries across the region, and have compiled my favorite spots.

And in most cases, there’s no fancy knowledge or preparation needed for wine tasting – just stop by a winery and ask to taste some wine!

Most wineries offer a range of white and red wines, but there also those that specialize in sparkling wines or dessert wines. And you’ll see quite a few fortified and dessert wine choices across the list below, because I have a bit of a sweet spot for fortified wines.

While it’s not technically “port” if made outside of Porto, Portugal, plenty of wines of that style can be found in Napa and Sonoma. Traveling and tasting in the region was the first time I learned that port didn’t have to be red, but could also be blonde or from different red grapes.

Over multiple trips, I’ve been to more wineries than made this (alphabetical) list, which focuses just on my favorite spots with the wines I’ve enjoyed most, which span quite a range of prices and styles.

Some are large and commercial, but I like their wine and the tasting experience anyway. Even if you’ve seen one (or several!) of their bottles at your local wine store, I still think it’s worth a visit to some of the large wineries in person – and those are the ones I’ve included in this post.

Others are this list are pretty specialized or so small you may not have heard of them, but they all have something unique to offer to your wine tasting experience.

Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma

Even if you’ve never been wine tasting before, there’s nothing to be intimidated of. In Napa and Sonoma, winery staff is accustomed to introducing first-time winery visitors to how it all works.

Most, if not all, of the wineries also offer a full tour. And if you’ve never toured a winery before, I definitely would book one or two to learn more about production and see the stages first-hand. But all of the wineries have tasting rooms, and it’s perfectly acceptable to come just to taste some wines.

I’ve listed below the official information available about each winery, however a lot of the nuances of your experience will relate to the person who is pouring your wine. Even if there is a tasting fee listed, it is often waived if you make a purchase, even if they don’t mention that explicitly.

And if there’s anything you’re unsure about, don’t hesitate to ask – over the phone, by e-mail, or in person during your tasting.

My favorite spots to enjoy:

Armida

Reservations: Not needed
Tasting: $20, waived with purchase
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel

In case you didn’t know, California is known for its red zinfandel production and it is one of my favorite varietals of grape there for its rich, fruity flavor. Affectionately nicknamed “zin” by local winemakers, Armida winery makes a delicious version it’s famous for, called “PoiZin.” The winery is a bit quirky (there’s the option of getting your PoiZin in a wooden coffin-shaped box!) but wines are delicious and there’s also a spectacular view on property, where you can enjoy a picnic lunch.

TIP! If you visit the grounds, there are great food products available from Oakville Grocery‘s nearby Healdsburg location that make for a great picnic.

BR Cohn

Reservations: Not needed
Tasting: $25-$50 depending on the tasting
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, port-style dessert wine

The winery tasting room is in a quaint house and features several award-winning typical grapes from the area. My favorites here have been their red wines, especially their port-style dessert wine. The port is so popular that the releases often sell out, but new vintages are released around summertime each year. BR Cohn is also an olive oil purveyor, and you can try their different infused-varieties or grab some food at their shop to enjoy with your tasting (and freshen up your taste buds in between all the wine).

Chateau St. Jean

Reservations: Recommended
Tasting: $15
Varietals: Chardonnay, Malbec, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sparkling, Syrah

This is a larger winery, and definitely one you may have seen represented at your local wine store. But the wines are affordable and delicious, and the staff is friendly and helpful. In addition to the most typical wines you’ll see, Chateau St. Jean also offers other French varietals like Pinot Gris and Syrah. I usually buy the most bottles here of any winery when I visit.

Gloria Ferrer

Reservations: Not needed
Tasting: $7-20 for wines by the glass, $25-33 for flights
Varietals: Albariño, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noir, Brut, Extra Brut, Pinot Noir

Gloria Ferrer offers a wide variety of wines, including some Spanish ones, but by far it is best known for its sparkling wine options. The tasting room and outdoor terrace are equally beautiful, and I’d honestly recommend purchasing a flight of wines or a glass to enjoy outside when the weather is nice.

J Winery

Reservations: Not needed for Signature Tasting, encouraged for higher-end tasting or tour
Tasting: $20+, waived with purchase of $100 or more
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Ratafia dessert wine, Sparkling

First, the wine here is phenomenal. J Winery is known best for their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although I also can’t get enough of their not-too-sweet Ratafia dessert wine. The winery itself is also beautiful, from the scenic grounds to the giant art installations and design of the indoor bar, and definitely worth visiting when you go.

La Crema

Reservations: Not needed for Signature or Vineyard Select tasting, required for other tastings or groups of 7+
Tasting: $15+
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

While there are a few other wines available, the vast majority of the La Crema production is Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and they definitely do both well. There is an estate to visit, but also a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg, which is where I enjoyed sampling the wines and purchasing a bunch to enjoy at home.

Morlet

Reservations: Required. Tastings by appointment only, scheduling recommended 1-3 months in advance.
Tasting: $150 per person, waived with purchase of 6 bottles or more
Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah

This might be the most high-end Napa/Sonoma area winery I’ve visited. It was worth the effort to reserve ahead of time – which is not my usual style – and the wines really are that good. Their wines are so eminently age-able that I still have some bottles from a Napa trip in 2011 left to savor. Since then one of the Morlet white blends I purchased was even served at the White House for a state dinner with the French president!

Peju

Reservations: Required from groups of 8+
Tasting: $35+
Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Zinfandel

The tasting room here is beautiful and Peju Winery has one of the largest varieties of different types of wine at a single winery, which also makes it a popular destination. But if you’re not sure what you like, this is a great place to start! My absolute favorite is the rosé wine, which comes in a few different styles from dry to sweeter ones, so there is likely a choice you will enjoy.

Prager Winery & Port Works

Reservations: Call to reserve, reservation required
Tasting: $30 (and you get to keep the glass)
Varietals: Blonde port, Petite Sirah port, Tawny port, White port

I haven’t visited Porto, Portugal (yet), so this is the only place I’ve been where I got to taste 5 different port-style wines one right after another. I love the style, and getting to taste so many together really helps you hone in on which one you like best. And yes, I still have my glass!

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars

Reservations: Not needed, unless 5+ people
Tasting: $45+
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc

Not to be confused with Stag’s Leap Winery, the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has some serious Cabernet Sauvignon wines. I don’t always like Cabernet from the region, but I really like theirs. And their white wines are also wonderful and at a much more affordable price point.

Trefethen

Reservations: Suggested, especially on weekends
Tasting: $25+
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling

Despite feeling very high-end and having some incredible wines, Trefethen offers a very affordable price point for a tasting flight compared to other wineries of its caliber. Wines are delicious across the board, but the most memorable one for me still (and yes, there’s still one bottle of this left on my wine rack) is the signature O-K-D blend, standing for the Oak Knoll District where the winery resides. A mix of one to five red grapes depending on the year, the result is always a bold, fruity, spicy blend worth savoring.

V. Sattui

Reservations: Only required for parties of 11+
Tasting: $20+
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, dessert wines including port and madeira

The 11-person minimum to require a reservation should tell you a little bit about how many people and groups come through this winery tasting room daily. I don’t usually seek out (or return) to wineries this popular and crowded for a visit, but V. Sattui is an exception because their dessert wines are just so good. They have a vintage port which I like sometimes, but always excellent are their madeira and Angelica fortified wines.

Bringing Wine Home

Now that you’ve visited Napa and Sonoma and stocked up on wine, how do you transport it home? The up side of the popularity of the Napa and Sonoma regions is that there is a lot of wine tourism and the wineries and local wine shops are well-equipped to help you get your wine souvenirs home safely.

Driving

If you are lucky enough to live within driving distance of the Napa and Sonoma regions, you’ll probably be fine with whatever packaging you get at each winery in terms of getting any bottles you purchase home safely.

TIP! Just be cautious of leaving wine in the car in extreme temperatures, which can damage the wine.

Shipping

Pretty much all wineries will offer some type of shipping service, but at a price. However, if it is not practical for you to carry your wine purchases with you, the easiest thing can often be to have wineries ship wine to your home directly, although of course this is more economical from Napa and Sonoma if you live somewhere in the United States.

TIP! Sometimes there are shipping deals if you purchase a minimum number of bottles from a single winery, so be sure to ask about this at your favorite spots.

TIP! If you live in the US, each state has its own rules about shipping wine. The winery should be able to look this up for you if you’re not already familiar with any limitations where you live.

Packing in Your Luggage

If you do this carefully, you should be fine. Trust me, I have a bit of experience with this, from my wine tourism all over the world.

READ MORE: 8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

My best advice for packing wine inside of luggage is to purchase some special bubble-wrapped wine transporters in advance and then use your clothes in luggage as additional cushioning. I have been using these Wine Skins for years and cannot recommend them enough:

[easyazon_link identifier=”B00GIX531O” locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Wine Skin Wineskin Bag, 2-, 4-, 6- or 8-Pack[/easyazon_link]

[easyazon_image align=”none” height=”500″ identifier=”B00GIX531O” locale=”US” src=”https://www.travelsavvygal.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/5109zpGEhXL.jpg” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″ width=”500″]

TIP! Even if you’re using a Wine Skin, wrap in clothes as well for extra cushioning.

TIP! Be sure that your luggage is completely full so nothing shifts in transit.

TIP! Most countries have limits on the amount of alcohol you can import before a duty applies, so if you travel internationally with a lot of bottles inside your luggage, be sure to claim them upon entry.

Taking a Case of Wine as Checked Luggage

Again, due to the popularity of Napa and Sonoma, all airports in the region even as far away as San Francisco and Sacramento are accustomed to checking in boxes of wine (a case holds 12 bottles). Airlines will even have the special “Fragile” stickers with a picture of a wine glass.

TIP! Be sure to use a case designed for shipping that will keep all bottles from hitting each other and also from directly hitting the outside of the box.

One other note with all of this wine tasting you’ll be doing over a spread-out area is to be sure you have a safe way to visit all the wineries on your list. Pick a designated driver and know that you are tasting and driving safely.

If there is a wine that you taste and like, there is no need to go overboard at the winery. You can always buy a bottle to enjoy back at your accommodations or to take home and enjoy later.

Happy wine tasting!
Lana

Have you visited any of the wineries on this list? What kinds of wine do you most enjoy tasting at a winery? Are there any Napa and Sonoma wineries I should check out on my next visit? Or other wine regions worth visiting in my travels? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia

March 13, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

How many wine regions do you know that were founded as the result of a research paper?

From an unusually academic start, the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia was born. It all started with a 1966 paper by Dr. John Gladstone identifying the region as suitable for wine production (since it was similar to the Bordeaux region of France). Apparently that’s all it took for some enterprising Aussies to start planting grapes and making wine.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Now, 50 years later, although Margaret River produces only around 3% of Australian wine, it is responsible for 20% of Australia’s most premium bottles.

That is a pretty high density of the good stuff, making Margaret River one of the best Australian wine regions you could choose to visit to make the most of a wine trip in Australia. Plus, with surf beaches, rock climbing, and nature nearby, even the New York Times posed this question about Margaret River: “With Beaches, Wine, and Buzz, Is This Australia’s Next Hot Place?”

READ MORE: One of the coolest things in WA – Pemberton Climbing Trees

READ MORE: Excellent Eating around WA’s Southern Forest

Margaret River is strategically located between two capes jutting out from Australia’s western coast, meaning sea breezes from the Indian Ocean keep the grapes in perfect growing conditions. And at approximately a three-hour drive from the city of Perth, it is close enough for a weekend trip.

While I hear most often that “Australia is far,” there are actually many parts of the world with direct flights to Perth, the nearest major city to Margaret River in Western Australia (WA).

Beside other Australian and New Zealand locales, you’ll find direct access to Perth from many major cities in Asia and the Middle East, such as Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi. There are also direct flights from Johannesburg (South Africa), and as of recently, even a direct flight from London!

READ MORE: 12 Things to Expect on Your Visit that are “So Perth”

And there’s no better time to check out this incredible wine region.

The Basics of Australian Wine and Wine Tasting

For my first visit to the region, I had been living in Perth, Australia for almost a year and had a pretty good sense of the local wine varietals. But in case you’re less familiar, here is a bit about the types of wine you’ll see at the wineries:

White Blends

In addition to single grape varietals you likely already know, Australians love their wine blends. The blend you’ll see most commonly is of the sweeter Semillon grape with the more acidic Sauvignon Blanc. You may have tasted these two grapes together already in a Bordeaux white, but in Australia, you’ll basically see two variations:

SSB standing for Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, meaning that there is a higher percentage of Semillon in the blend.
SBS standing for Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, with a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc

As you might expect, the blend takes on more of the characteristics of the grape that is named first. Try lots of both and decide which you like best! (I prefer SSB.)

Shiraz

First off, spoiler – Shiraz and Syrah are exactly the same grape. But just because you know Syrah does not mean you’ll know Australian Shiraz though, only because of the many different ways it is produced. Even one Australian Shiraz to another can taste quite different, so keep an open mind and taste lots of these wines.

Red Blends

Of course you’ll see plenty of blends with Shiraz, like Cabernet Shiraz (blend with Cabernet Sauvignon) and Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, known as a GSM blend found typically in the Rhone region of France. Interestingly, another popular blend I’ve only seen in Australia – Shiraz Viognier – with the red Shiraz grape blended with white Viognier.

And there are lots of other Cabernet blends beyond Cabernet Shiraz, although you’ll most typically see Cabernet Merlot, which is both fruity and bold.

Other Things to Know Before You Go

You’ll notice quickly in Australia that Australians (Aussies) have nicknames and abbreviations for just about everything! And wine is no exception. The shortened version you’re most likely to encounter is the Aussie nickname for Chardonnay which is the abbreviation ‘chardy’ (pronounced SHAR-dee).

Don’t bother looking for a winery’s ‘tasting room,’ as you won’t find it. Instead, seek out the ‘cellar door.’

And don’t be dissuaded by the predominance of screw-top bottles over corked wine bottles, as in Australia it is not related to the quality of the wine. Since beginning the switch to screw-top bottles around the year 2000, today around 99% of all Australian wine is bottled that way.

Now let’s get down to it – which wineries you should visit to sample some incredible Margaret River wines!

Best Wineries in Margaret River

With an area so well known for its premium wines, there are plenty of exceptional wineries that are worth a visit. All of those alphabetically listed below are wineries that I’ve visited and enjoyed enough to purchase wines – which for me is a high bar to clear!

Also, wine tasting in Australia is probably more laid back than winery visits you’ve had in other countries, with ‘cellar doors’ that are open typically every day of the week and welcoming anyone who is in the area to stop by.

All smiles exploring Margaret River wine country

Often tastings are offered for free or for a minimal fee, which will often be waived if you make any purchases during your visit. Private tastings or tours at a winery tend to be extra, and often require advance booking.

TIP! Even if you think you know a grape or a wine, it all tastes different in WA, so keep an open mind and try everything!

Now go and enjoy your winery visits at….

Arimia Winery

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre (GSM), Petit Verdot, Rosé, Shiraz Viognier, Verdelho, Zinfandel

Arimia Winery was a last-minute addition to my wine tasting itinerary based on a recommendation from nearby purveyor Gabriel Chocolate. You’ll see a lot of French style blends and grapes, taking advantage of Margaret River’s similarity to some parts of France. There is also a restaurant on-site which makes for a scenic and delicious meal overlooking the vineyard.

This is also possibly the spot where I bought the most wine:

Ashbrook Estate

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Merlot, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Verdelho

This one of the oldest and also one of the best wineries in the Margaret River region, producing common grapes along with those less often seen in Australia, like Riesling. A third generation winery, Ashbrook celebrated its 40th vintage in 2018. There is great care taken with all the wine produced here, with grapes picked completely by hand, leading to a delicious final product.

Cape Mentelle

Reservations: Not needed for the Cellar Door; “bookings essential” for a private tour or tasting (additional fee)

Tasting: AUD$10 tasting fee per person, waived with purchase

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon, Shiraz, Zinfandel

This is one of my all-time favorite wineries from the region, and also one of the easiest to find represented at restaurants and wine stores outside of Australia. Which is not surprising since it holds the distinction as being one of the ‘founding five’ wineries of the region. Especially memorable wines include their SBS blend, the Cabernet Merlot Trinders blend, and the Zinfandel. Plus, the straight Cabernet Sauvignon makes for such perfect, smooth sips, it was my bottle of choice at a recent steakhouse dinner in the US.

Cape Naturaliste Vineyard

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz

Cape Naturaliste is one of the younger vineyards on this list, but one with consistent, quality wines. Even with the excellent quality, its wines are more affordable than some other wineries in the region, leading many of its vintages to sell out every year. Their SSB white blend is one of my favorites. The winery also aims to be in harmony with nature, hand picking grapes and applying bio-dynamic philosophies to preserving the local environment.

Cullen Wines

Reservations: Not needed, except for Private Tour and Tasting or for groups of 7+ people

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot (Diana Madeline), Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Malbec, Malbec Petit Verdot (Red Moon), Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS)

The fourth of the ‘founding five’ Margaret River wineries, Cullen opened the year after Cape Mentelle and has continued to evolve since then. Today it is Australian certified organic and bio-dynamic winery with fruit that is harvested by hand and an estate that is carbon-neutral and naturally powered. The wine is sophisticated and smooth, and comes in at a mix of price points, with some more affordable bottles and a few that are more exclusive – with a price to match.

Flying Fish Cove

Reservations: Tastings by appointment Monday-Friday

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Chardonnay (sparkling), Rosé, Shiraz, Shiraz (sparkling), Shiraz Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB)

One of the few Margaret River wineries that requires reservations, be sure to arrange with them in advance so you can sample their delicious wines. Offering a range of lines (at a range of price points), there are delicious wines to excite your palate, including a few sparkling ones. If you’re not sure which Aussie wine you fancy, Flying Fish Cove will help you figure it all out as you taste across their impressive varietals.

Gralyn Estate

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Fortified/ Late Harvest/ Muscat/ Port style dessert wines, Rosé, Shiraz

Gralyn Estate also dates from the first wave of wineries in the 1970s and today is a boutique winery known for its fine wine production. A specialty here that you don’t see at many other Margaret River wineries is the dessert wine portfolio, which ranges from late harvest wines to sweet fortified and port-style ones that I love. You may not make the splurge to buy a ton of bottles here, but it is definitely worth coming for a tasting.

Juniper Estate

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc (Aquitaine Rouge), Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Riesling, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS – Aquitaine Blanc), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz, Tempranillo

I was on an organized tour my first day in Margaret River, and after not loving the first winery, the tour guide brought us here and it was exactly the type of winery I was looking for. In addition to the Aussie staples, it offers delicious bottles of Tempranillo, a Spanish grape that grows surprisingly well in Western Australia, and also beautiful whites like Riesling.

But the show-stopper for me is their Aquitane Blanc, the best SBS I have ever tasted. The blend hails from France, but with the Margaret River grapes and expert treatment by this winery, it has a je ne sais quoi that will stop you in your tracks as well.

Leeuwin Estate

Reservations: Not needed for tastings; recommended for tours, food flights, and other experiences

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut (sparkling), Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Shiraz

Part of the first wave of wineries to open in the region, Leeuwin Estate is a mainstay known for its consistent quality wines. Still family owned today, Napa Valley renowned winemaker Robert Mondavi actually helped the family transform the land from a cattle farm into a world-class winery. The estate also has a restaurant on-site and is big enough that it regularly hosts special events. And its “Art Series” of wine isn’t just lip service – there is also an art gallery at the winery.

Stella Bella Wines

Reservations: Not needed for individuals; groups are strictly by appointment only

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Moscato, Pinot Gris, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz, Shiraz Cabernet

I found this to be one of the most laid back and fun wineries for a visit, but still with incredibly high-quality wine. I like so many of the wines I can’t even pick a favorite – for me it is between their various red wines and red blends and the more delicate of their white wines, like Chardonnay and the SSB. Although the winery has only been around since the 1990s, it has been racking up awards and is renowned across Australia for the incredible wine it produces.

Vasse Felix

Reservations: Not needed for tastings; recommended for tours, food flights, and other experiences

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Blanc de Blancs (sparkling), Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Shiraz

I keep talking about the ‘founding five’ wineries of Margaret River and this is THE ONE, the very first winery in the region. Like Leeuwin, there is also a restaurant and art gallery on site, and events that are hosted there. But of course the main attraction is the wine. It is spectacular, and I was pleasantly surprised to find some great value wines along with the pricier lines, with their red offerings as my favorites.

Voyager Estate

Reservations: Not needed for tastings; recommended for tours, food flights, and other experiences

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Chenin Blanc (sparkling), Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz

Voyager didn’t come onto the Margaret River wine scene until the late 1970s, but it has become one of the most established and recognizable wineries since then. Its Chenin Blanc is my favorite from the region and its other whites are some of my favorites as well.

The on-site restaurant made for an excellent lunch when I visited, with scrumptious food beautifully displayed in a lovely space – and plenty of delicious wine to go with your meal.

Woodlands Wines

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc Merlot, Cabernet Merlot Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir

Woodlands Wines became established in the Margaret River region in the early 1970s, right after the ‘founding five’ wineries. As you can see from the list above, it specializes in red wines and blends, using some of the less commonly found grapes in the region like Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Pinot Noir, making some fabulous wines.

While the reds are great and numerous, there is one white wine that is absolutely outstanding and memorable – the ‘Chloe’ Chardonnay. It is bright golden in color and an explosion of flavor that wows you and then lingers as it shifts to some of the more subtle notes of the wine. And since it is such a small production, your best bet to taste this outstanding wine is at the Woodlands Cellar Door. Followed by buying some to take home, of course!

Tips for Wine Tasting in Margaret River

There is certainly no shortage of incredible wineries in Margaret River. To make the most of your wine tasting trip, here are a few additional tips to keep in mind:

Australian ‘drink driving’ rules are strict.

Unlike other countries where you need to be suspected of a violation before you can be subject to a sobriety test, it is routine all over Australia to set up a road-block and take a breathalyzer (or ‘breathalyser’) test of every single driver on the road. WA is so serious about breathalyzers that once I even had to take one before going on the Tunnels Tour at the Fremantle Prison in Perth.

If you do decide to drive yourself, be responsible and exercise caution. You’ll see signs around a lot of the wineries asking, “Who is the skipper?” about a designated driver.

For those who don't speak Australian, skipper = designated driver — For those who don’t speak Australian, skipper = designated driver

So take a tour!

There are several reputable and well-regarded tour operators in Margaret River, who will both drive you around to wineries and recommend excellent spots based on what you like. Many tours book up quickly (especially on weekends) so make your arrangements in advance.

I went on an excellent tour with Top Drop Tours, where the driver/guide did an excellent job tailoring that day’s itinerary to my wine preferences.

Find out more about Top Drop Tours HERE

Explore other Margaret River wine tour options HERE

Don’t just taste wine.

This is a lesson I first learned wine tasting in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys of California. Even besides meals, it is important to mix up mix all that wine tasting with getting food in your stomach. Two of the best places to do that in Margaret River:

Gabriel Chocolate is an award-winning chocolatier that sources cacao beans from around the world and produces a wide range of chocolates at their Margaret River factory. Get all your questions answered by the helpful staff and taste differently sourced chocolate from around the world side-by-side to get a great sense of each.
Olio Bello has been harvesting olives in the region since the 1990s and they are serious about the product they produce. Over a dozen of varieties of olives are grown, hand-picked, and cold-pressed, all right on their massive property. At their tasting room you can sample various olive oils and preserves.

TIP! If you come during their olive pressing season from April – June, you can watch the olive milling process and taste the new oil as soon as it’s made.

Check out all there is to do in the region!

Other food and activity purveyors are best located on the Margaret River regional map, helpfully marked with different icons based on whether it is a winery, art gallery, activity, and also specifying whether there is a restaurant attached for each.

There are plenty of outdoor adventures to take advantage of as well, from hiking to world-class surfing to rock climbing.

Me rock climbing right on the Indian Ocean coast in Margaret River

Find the most updated regional map HERE.

TIP! You’ll also be able to pick up hard copies of the map at various wineries and Margaret River attractions.

Including Australian truffle country.

The other thing you may not know about this part of Western Australia is that nearby you’ll find the most truffles of any other spot in the southern hemisphere! While you may associate truffles more typically with Italy (or France), there are actually truffles in several parts of Australia, although you’ll find the vast majority in one part of WA.

Truffle season lasts from late May until September, when you’ll have access to freshly harvested truffles to enjoy, although you can enjoy local truffle products all year long. And sometime in late June or early July – the exact timing varies from year to year – you’ll be able to enjoy the annual Truffle Kerfuffle, the local truffle festival located about a 90-minute drive from Margaret River.

And definitely stay over.

As you can see from the massive list of top wineries (which doesn’t include every spot I visited, just the best ones), I spent several days exploring the Margaret River region – and so should you! Most visitors stay either close to nature or in town. I liked staying in the town of Margaret River, with lots of restaurants in walking distance to not have to worry about driving after a day of wine tasting.

I had an exceptional few nights at the Rosewood Guesthouse, which went above and beyond to provide little touches throughout my stay. The elaborate breakfast is a great start to a day of wine tasting or outdoor activity, and there are complimentary refreshments available all day long, from tea and biscuits to complimentary port and sherry for a nightcap. The Rosewood Guesthouse will also coordinate any number of snacks, in-house massages, or tours for you, including the option of a private tour in the on-site, cream-colored 1956 Rolls Royce:

Sadly, when I visited, the Rolls Royce was all booked out for the weekend. Quite a nice way to tour the vineyards, if you can get it... — Sadly, when I visited, the Rolls Royce was all booked out for the weekend, but I still got to admire it!

This was not a sponsored accommodation of any kind, I just had a really fabulous stay at the Rosewood Guesthouse!

Check out Rosewood Guesthouse pricing and availability HERE

Explore other Margaret River accommodation options HERE

Staying somewhere attentive and cozy was definitely a great way to end each day in Margaret River.

And even beyond wine country, the region has so much to offer that it is a great destination for a weekend (or longer!) escape.

Happy travels!
Lana

How do you decide which wine country you’d like to visit next?Have you been to Margaret River? Any other wineries there that you love?

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Travel Superlatives of 2017: To Inspire Your Next Adventure

December 20, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

This year has involved quite a lot of transitions. I started my first full-time job in quite some time (hint: it’s not blogging) and have been slowly figuring out how to balance it with my passion for blogging, travel, and you know – life, the universe, and everything!

This also marks a full year spent back in the US after five years abroad, and it hasn’t always been smooth sailing. I was shocked at how much my post on moving “home” resonated with readers, and continues to resonate with many others experiencing the same challenging transition. It is the post when I felt the most vulnerable clicking that “Publish” button, but such a lesson to me that it is when you really put your authentic self out there that you connect the most with those around you.

And that’s really what my travel superlatives come down to. It’s a collection of moments in far-flung places and spots close to home when I connected with those around me. Sometimes through an experience and sometimes a meal, but all were opportunities for wonder with some excellent company to share it all with. And a bit of adventure.

I hope you enjoy my stories from the road and perhaps even find some travel inspiration for the year ahead. Here are the moments resonating with me from the past year:

Best Nature Adventure: Belize’s ATM Cave

I love caving and adventure, plus the tour to Belize’s ATM Cave (you must be on a tour to enter) was touted by every operator as the top day trip to do from San Ignacio, Belize. The tour itself was absolutely incredible, involving plenty of strolling, swimming, and even a bit of rock climbing to navigate the internal passageways of the cave, including ancient Mayan sites. Wow, just wow.

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Best Tour: Hoover Dam insider “Dam Tour”

The Dam Tour is limited to 20 people every half hour and can only be purchased in person on the day. But it is worth an early start to guarantee a spot on one of the coolest tours I’ve ever been on. Due to security concerns, the insider tour no longer includes a trip to the Power Plant floor, but in its place you get to wander behind the scenes through the inside of the dam itself in areas that were never intended for visitors. There is amazingly cool graffiti and other markings along the way, plus some killer views through vents peering from the inside out!

Best Wine Tasting: DelFosse Vineyards in Charlottesville, VA

I spent the weekend before my birthday on a getaway to Charlottesville, Virginia, a pretty easy drive from the Baltimore/Washington, DC area. I had been a few times before and one of my fondest memories from a weekend I spent in 2007 was of a barrel tasting at a winery up a gravel road a bit outside of town. My return visit to DelFosse Vineyards a decade later was just as memorable, with a personable and delicious journey through their wine collection during the tasting. Both their whites and reds are something special. And yes, there’s still a gravel road for those last few minutes.

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New Go-To Activity: Hiking

I’ve always liked hiking and mixed it in with my city escapes, but this is the first year that I’ve headed into some weekends with an intense desire to get out in nature – at which point I hunted down a hiking buddy or headed out on my own. Maybe it’s my mentality shifting with age, but nothing helps to reset my mind than exploring nature’s beauty with my own two feet.

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Most Memorable Bites: Cambridge, MA & Charlottesville, VA

Let me start by saying that I had some pretty epic meals this year. From cooking my first-ever rack at lamb at home to savoring meals at high-end restaurants serving up 20+ course tasting menus, there have been some very delicious bites (yes, I’m a lucky lady!). But the two most memorable dishes of the year for me are the ones that were unique and flavorful and even months later stand out in my mind.

The first is a a crab and kimchi stew that I enjoyed at The Table at Season to Taste in Cambridge (Boston), Massachusetts. It was such an incredible overall (solo dining) experience that I boldly wrote a whole blog post about it as my best of 2017 all the way back in March and it still rings true all these months later.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on May 11, 2017 at 5:15pm PDT

The other most memorable dish is a crispy scallop appetizer that I enjoyed at Brasserie Saison in Charlottesville, Virginia. It doesn’t sound like all that much but it stands out in my mind both for being something I have never seen before (Crispy scallop outside and smooth-as-silk inside? Amazing!) and also because it was so perfectly executed that every bite was a piece of heaven.

READ MORE: How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

Best Art Exhibit: Kusama’s Infinity Mirrors

I first saw Yayoi Kusama’s art in Stockholm, Sweden and was so in awe of her unique style that I waited in a crazy line to get access to another exhibit of hers this year in Washington, DC. This latest exhibition included multiple ‘infinity rooms’ that were basically giant cubes you could step into with mirrors on all sides and see incredible lights and designs reflected all around you. Check out my blog post for more on the mesmerizing art, plus details on how to get access and when this exhibit may be headed your way – in 2018 it will be in Los Angeles, Toronto, Cleveland, and Atlanta!

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Best Way to Experience My New Home City: On the Water

Part of my adjustment back living stateside has been to express gratitude and focus on all of the benefits of being back after time abroad. Certainly the convenience of American life and access to ethnic food top my list, but being in the city of Baltimore specifically means that I live quite close to the water. I can walk there in around 5 minutes and there’s even a free commuter water taxi stop nearby that will take me to a few different spots across the harbor. And my running route takes me along the water’s edge by Fort McHenry, where the Star Spangled Banner (the American national anthem) was written. Some of my favorite Baltimore water views from the past year:

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Hidden Gem City Escape: Detroit, Michigan

When you think of ‘Motor City’ you’re probably imagining car production or dangerous neighborhoods, but the Detroit of today is so much more. My highlights from a long weekend there included fancy cocktails bars, craft breweries, apple cider mills, some delicious bites, and all sorts of notable art and architecture. Detroit’s revitalization is still a work in progress, but it is already soaring and a spot I’d return to in a heartbeat!

READ MORE: Finding Zero Mile in Detroit

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Hidden Gem Outdoors: Sanibel Island, Florida

My first flight of the year was in January to visit my dad who now lives in Florida. Of course, the primary goal of the trip was to spend some quality time together, so I specifically refrained from doing too much research. Even the lovely stroll we took through an ecological preserve was something I spotted in a brochure after I arrived, not a bucket list item I had planned in advance.

So when we ended up taking a detour to Sanibel Island, I innocently took a stroll only to encounter loads of people with buckets and walking with their eyes glued to the beach. As it turns out, Sanibel Island is considered by many to be the best shelling beach in all of North America! Even though I’m no expert, it was exciting to see so many beautiful shells and even some of the sea creatures that had washed ashore.

Favorite Getaway: Staying with Friends by the Beach

I could pretend I had some posh chalet in the mountains somewhere, but let’s be real, I’m not that fancy. The place that I spent the most weekend getaways in 2017? With friends by Bethany Beach in Delaware. It’s been a perfect haven and relaxed getaway on many a weekend, with great food and wonderful company. Thanks for hosting and for all the great experiences this year!

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Most Random Visit: Berlin Wall in a NYC Office Building

When I visited Berlin, Germany for a long weekend, I of course made it a point to see several sections of what remains of the Berlin Wall, including the open-air East Side Gallery. Across the ocean in New York City, the Berlin Wall was the last thing I expected to see in a random office building, and yet there are several panels that can be visited in the lobby for free!

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Biggest Bucket List Item: Rock Climbing in Red Rock Canyon

Starting with my college years, plenty of friends have talked up Las Vegas as a site for gambling and debauchery. And the ones who really know me well touted the foodie scene there. But the biggest attraction for me has always been the rock climbing I’ve been hearing about for ages in the nearby Red Rock Canyon. My guided trip there was just as wonderful as I had imagined, with incredible scenery and a lot of fun on the rock.

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Best Travel Experience: Hitching a Ride on a Boat in Bermuda

I was excited at having bought the Bermuda-exclusive loquat liqueur at the Goslings store in downtown Hamilton, the Bermudian capital that was half an island away from my cruise ship. The feeling of accomplishment slowly melted into apprehension as I realized that because it was Sunday, the ferry turned out to be on a truncated schedule and the last one had already left back toward the dock where my cruise ship was anchored about 20 minutes before.

I was quite annoyed at this point – Why hadn’t I checked the schedule properly beforehand? Why didn’t I realize it was a sign taking a taxi into Hamilton from the beach was a bad idea when no one else was headed that way? – I probably should have seen the signs ahead of time, given that I’m an experienced traveler. But fortunately we had another day in Bermuda, so I wasn’t exactly in a rush. At least the cruise ship wouldn’t leave without me if I didn’t get back by a certain time.

I started running through possibilities in my head. There seemed to be a local bus station nearby, and many buses had passed through the main street downtown. Surely it would be cheap to take the route to the far side of the island, although the trip might take a while and who knows how long it would be before the next bus. A taxi was an option, but probably a $60 one. So it wouldn’t be a cheap mistake, but at least I’d make it back to the ship for dinner.

One consolation was that I wasn’t alone, there were actually 4 of us from the cruise strip stranded at the now-closed ferry terminal. But as possibly the most assertive one of the bunch, I was tasked with asking around and trying to figure out our best option to get back.

It was at this point that I noticed a boat crew at the far side of the dock that seemed to be cleaning up for the night. There was a decent chance they were locals and could hopefully point us in the right direction, maybe even let us know if buses were still running or if our best bet was to hail a taxi to get back.

I couldn’t tell you exactly what I said in my first thirty seconds of talking, but the guy who seemed to be the head of the crew approached as I was chatting with one of the deck hands and said, “Actually, we have to get this boat back over to the Dockyard for a tour in the morning, do you want a lift back?”

What?!? By opening myself up and asking strangers for help did I really just score all of us a free ride back to our cruise ship?

“As long as you don’t mind loud music and will buy drinks on the way, you can ride back with us.”

Um, YES PLEASE.

The older couple in the group was a bit skeptical if this was some sort of scam, but this was not only super convenient and generous, the crew explained that this was what your typical everyday Bermudian hospitality was all about. Plus, they were headed that way anyway.

Within minutes we had dark-and-stormy’s in hand (the local cocktail) and were cruising through the harbor on a catamaran with music blasting. I would have called it the best private boat tour of my life, but it was just locals helping out some clueless tourists and letting loose at the end of a long work shift.

Along the way, the crew pointed out a few famous Bermudian houses on the water, but mostly we sang and danced together the whole way. We pulled up and docked just a short distance from the cruise ship, as the catamaran was part of an organized tour the next morning. And when we tried to pay for our drinks, they just shrugged and wished us well.

This is how close the catamaran got us to the cruise ship.

What were some of your highlights from the past year? Or your most memorable travel experience? Anything from my round-up that you’ll seek out in the year ahead? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

September 13, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Charlottesville may be a college town, but it is much more than a destination for the University of Virginia.

There are several US presidential estates in the area, most famously Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello Estate, but not only. Charlottesville is nestled in some of the greenest areas of Virginia, offering many opportunities for hiking and outdoor exploration. And the reason I keep coming back again and again? All of the delicious food and wine all nestled into a small, beautiful area.

It is definitely useful to have a car for a weekend in Charlottesville, because many of the sights you’ll want to see will be out of town. Also, if you’re like me and planning to do a bunch of wine tasting (and purchasing), it is handy to have the trunk of a car to transport it all. And of course, road tripping gives you the ultimate flexibility of how to spend your day.

Read on for all my top recommendations on ‘Things to Do’ and ‘Best Bites & Sips’ for when you visit.

Things To Do

Monticello

Former presidential estate of Thomas Jefferson, this is probably the most well-known landmark in the area and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tours are required, but you can get a ticket to do this at your own pace, or one that focuses on a specific aspect of the estate, like the lives of slaves on the plantation or Jefferson’s gardening interest and research. In the years since my last trip there, Monticello tourism has exploded, especially in summertime. Definitely try to time your visit for spring or fall, and plan to get an early start to beat the crowds.

TIP! You can get tickets online in advance at a discount, and this will save you waiting in line when you arrive. These are available until midnight the day before your visit.

TIP! There are quite a few quite easy walking trails across the property, so leave additional time if you’d like to explore more on foot beyond the estate and its buildings. A trail map is here.

Highland

Although James Monroe’s Highland Estate was (deliberately) close to Monticello, it attracts far fewer visitors. Certainly it is a smaller estate, but it also limited since the original house burned down at one point. The up side for visitors to the area is that even at the peak of summer travel when other spots are quite busy, you can still stroll in and enjoy the relaxing and quite informative tour of the grounds. A lot is still being discovered on the property, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth another look on your next Charlottesville trip.

TIP! Highland is so close to Monticello that it is quite easy to visit both together in a single morning or afternoon.

Explore Nature

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There are a ton of nearby green spaces to explore, most famously Shenandoah National Park and its scenic Skyline Drive. There are also a lot of nearby hikes that you can research through the national park website. There are also trails on the Monticello Estate, see more in the above TIP!

Historic Downtown Mall

This pedestrian area is the social center of Charlottesville and has a great variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants to enjoy over the course of an afternoon or evening (see ‘Best Bites & Sips’ below). Envisioned as an ‘urban park’ there are a ton of outdoor events scheduled here, especially in summer. Plus, there is an ongoing schedule of concerts and festivals at the adjacent Sprint Pavilion.

University of Virginia (UVA) Campus

Even if you’re not a prospective student or the family of one, you might want to explore the campus of the University of Virginia. It was founded by Thomas Jefferson in the early 1800s and is the only college campus in America that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Explore the campus on your own, or join UVA University Guide Service for one of the historical tours that take place most days at 10am, 11am, and 2pm. There are also tours about the ‘History of Women’ and ‘History of African Americans’ at the University by request.

Alcohol Alley

Nearby Route 151 is not the only place to find great wineries, breweries, and cideries in the Charlottesville area, but it sure has a lot of them – hence how it got nicknamed by locals. Certainly even if you do no research and have no plan for tasting the local libations, you can explore along this road and follow the excellent signage to pop into a few random spots. Silverback Distillery below was an impulse stop along this stretch of road, and there is lots more to explore.

Monticello Wine Trail

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Honestly, the wineries (and the delicious food – see below) are the main reason I keep recommending Charlottesville as a great weekend getaway. You visit one or two of the 30+ local wineries over the course of the weekend or can set an ambitious schedule – like I *might* have done – hitting up 4-5 wineries in a day. It’s definitely possible to do that without feeling rushed, but of course it all depends on how early you start 😉

TIP! Most local wineries are open from 10 or 11am until 5 or 6pm.

My top 2 picks are DelFosse Vineyards & Winery and King Family Vineyards, but for more on the best local wineries – including which ones have the best lunch options and picnic grounds – head to my post all about Charlottesville Wineries.

Silverback Distillery

This was an impulse stop on a day of hitting up multiple wineries and a great find. Although the Distillery is only a few years old, it offers rye and honey rye, plus boasts several award winning alcohols including a very uniquely aromatic gin that I just loved. They also craft some pretty creative cocktails on the weekend, and I might have been just a little mesmerized by them setting a chunk of bark on fire to infuse their smoky Old Fashioned.

Best Bites & Sips

I have not had a bad meal in Charlottesville. There is a definite foodie culture in this university town and many outstanding options to choose from, from low-key dishes done well to high-end experimental cuisine. I certainly have not sampled them all (yet!) but I have done quite a bit of research into the spots where I did land on my trips, and have only included the spots of my most outstanding meals here.

A lot of the best spots are clustered in the downtown pedestrian area that extends for many blocks, and I’d definitely recommend staying walking distance from this part of town. There are several coffee and breakfast places to hit up in the morning, and dozens of exceptional restaurants to explore each evening.

Breakfast

Bluegrass Grill & Bakery

This place has a bit of something for everyone, kind of like a diner with more flavor combinations for each dish. And they might be just a wee bit obsessed with bacon, based on all of the signs and puns scattered around. No reservations, so be prepared for a wait, especially if you’re in a larger party.

TIP! It’s usually easier to snag a seat at one of the bar stools, which lets you leapfrog the list if you see a spot open up. I was seated in about 2 minutes on a crowded Sunday this way, and got the added entertainment of being able to see into the kitchen.

TIP! There are lots of vegetarian and vegan options here, in all sorts of delectable combinations.

Bodo’s Bagels

First off, let me say that I am a native New Yorker. Saturday memories of my childhood are filled with the aroma of steaming bagels piled high in a paper bag that my dad would go out and get fresh early in the morning. Any time I’ve lived outside of the New York City metro area, I usually transport bagels by the dozen to freeze and defrost one at a time for eating, because I’ve found that frozen and reheated NY bagels are still usually better than what I can find locally.

Bodo’s serves up a very respectable and delicious bagel, and it’s definitely worth seeking out on your visit, especially if you don’t have access to great bagels back at home. You’ll find each location packed with locals when you go!

Dinner

Brasserie Saison

It’s French cuisine with a twist, and easily accessible right on the downtown pedestrian mall. While I wish that the steak frites had been more traditional, their daily specials that you see were out of this world and there was a comprehensive wine and beer (and cocktail) list to accompany all these delicious bites. An outstanding spot – the only thing missing is to have some bread at the table to sop up all their amazing sauces!

TIP! The Brasserie is the only place in this section of the list that also serves lunch, if you’re looking for an upscale midday meal.

C&O Restaurant

This restaurant, named after the old Chesapeake & Ohio (C&O) train station across the street, may also be a local classic from many years ago, but you’ll get a delightfully modern and local take on food when you dine here. It is a bit upscale, although if you are visiting from a major US city, you may just see the prices as what you’d find at a neighborhood spot back home. The food is so delicious and beautifully presented in a great atmosphere with excellent service, that you’ll blissfully enjoy your time dining here. Added bonus? It’s right off the downtown pedestrian mall.

Ivy Inn

First of all, this is the one spot that is a bit far from the central pedestrian area I keep talking about, close to the UVA campus. But trust me, it’s worth the trek. The décor is a bit old school, but the innovative takes on dishes and flavor combinations are divine and every bite here was one to savor with just the right balance of textures as well. Plus, everything was beautifully presented, and they added some extra special touches for my birthday as you can see in the photos.

Zocalo

Zocalo is a Latin-inspired restaurant on the downtown pedestrian mall that was relatively new to the scene when I first visited a decade ago, and it is still just as good as it ever was. Their flavors are bold, execution flawless, and it is just really delicious food. Now a Charlottesville mainstay, it is a great spot for exploring all that the local food scene has to offer.

To Drink

Commonwealth Restaurant and Skybar

I can’t speak to their food although as you can tell from the name it is also a proper restaurant. I can vouch for their great beer selection and solid cocktails, though. My favorite part was sitting outside at the Skybar doing some people-watching, since it overlooks the central pedestrian area below.

TIP! Seating in this upstairs section is first-come, first-served.

Some Final Thoughts

Admittedly, my first forays into Charlottesville were to watch college lacrosse games. The University of Virginia (UVA) usually has a solid team, and sometimes I even did day trips from Washington, DC to see them play my alma mater.

The reason I’ve returned to Charlottesville time and again is not just the variety of things to do and great places to eat, but that there is such a high quality and friendliness everywhere you go.

This really is a superlative spot to spend a few days, and after recent events, Charlottesville is definitely in need of some tourist love. Get to it!

Have you been to Charlottesville? Are there any places that didn’t make my list but should have? Share away in the ‘Comments’ – I’ll definitely be back!

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Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia: The Monticello Wine Trail

July 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

If I asked you to name US wine regions, what would be the first ones that come to mind?

Probably Napa and Sonoma valleys, in northern California. Possibly some other California regions that are up-and-coming for wine making, perhaps Oregon for its Pinot Noir production, Hill Country in Texas, or maybe even the Finger Lakes region of NY.

Far less likely to cross your mind? The wine region of Charlottesville, Virginia. Even though I think that some of the best wines on the east coast of the US are from there, and it’s a relatively easy weekend trip from Washington, DC, Baltimore, and other surrounding cities. Plus, when Food & Wine magazine calls Charlottesville the most underrated wine region in the US, it’s time to take notice!

Honestly, Charlottesville is a more typical destination as a university town and for its nearby presidential estates. The University of Virginia – UVA – is located there, as well as the former home of Thomas Jefferson (the Monticello Estate) and James Monroe’s Highland.

The real draw for me, although I’ve visited the other sights in town, is the wine region in the area

known as the Monticello Wine Trail. The term “trail” is a bit misleading because there are 30 wineries spread all across the region, however there are a lot of similarities in the grapes they grow and the style of wine they produce.

On my previous wine weekend trip to Charlottesville, Virginia in 2007, I had no idea it would be a full decade before I returned. Fast forward ten years, and the wines are even more exciting, with new grape varietals to the region producing some very interesting – and eminently drinkable – bottles of wine.

Wine is definitely more expensive stateside than in a lot of parts of Europe where I’ve done more of my wine tasting lately, like the Piedmont or Valpolicella and Soave regions of Italy. But I’d much rather spend $10-25 a bottle at an American winery where I’ve tasted and know I like the wine than take my chances blindly purchasing a bottle in a wine shop for a similar price.

For this visit, I pulled information from a lot of sources (and my past experience!) to determine which wineries I should visit. And I enjoyed some really great wine along the way.

Here is the run down of my favorite spots:

Best Wineries to Visit

DelFosse Vineyards & Winery

Reservations: Not needed for a Classic Tasting, Private Tastings require advance reservation

Tasting: $10 for the Classic Tasting, $15 per person for a Private Tasting

Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng dessert wine

Both times I visited, I felt a bit of apprehension when the road turns into a gravel path for the last few minutes of the approach. The bit of extra driving is more than rewarded though, with a secluded spot and a great-value tasting of 10 wines made in the French style. My favorites included the Viognier and both Cabernets, and the delicious wine is enhanced by the relaxed atmosphere and knowledgeable staff. The grounds include picnic spots, and you’re welcome to bring outside food to enjoy.

King Family Vineyards

Reservations: Not needed for a Classic Tasting, Private Tastings require advance reservation, Tours are first-come, first-served at 1pm & 3pm on the weekend

Tasting: $10 for the Classic Tasting, $15 per person for a Private Tasting (with a purchase minimum)

Varietals: Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng dessert wine

This location boasted a polo field before the idea for a winery was born. Polo matches continue to this day, but King Family Vineyards has also become known for its quality wine production. The tasting area is inviting, and staff are welcoming and really know both the history of the property and a ton about the wine. I really loved the rosé here – playfully named after the nearby town of Crozet – as well as their white blend.

Stinson Vineyards

Reservations: Not needed for a Regular Tasting, advance reservation required for groups of 7 or more

Tasting: $10 for the Regular Tasting, $12 per person for groups

Varietals: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Meritage blend, Tannat, Petit Manseng dessert wine, Port-style dessert wine

The tasting room is located inside a quaint former garage, and both feels a bit industrial and also connected to nature with the view of the surrounding countryside. Tastings are relaxed with delicious wine options. I especially loved their white wines, including the Petit Manseng dessert wine which was refreshing without being too sweet. There is also a farm store on site, and many food options to sit and stay awhile and enjoy the view.

Just To Eat

Veritas Vineyard & Winery

It’s possible that the wines beyond what was available for tasting were fabulous, but the ones I tasted were not memorable or stood out as particularly good. Come here for the food and view instead!

This winery had my least-favorite sips, but it still made my list as a great spot to eat or hang out for the afternoon. There is ample seating on the grounds, and plenty of food options that you can order on site or you can bring your own picnic lunch. I enjoyed a wonderful cheese plate, made even better since the bread was served warm.

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The tasting room is beautiful, but the tasting itself was rushed and very commercialized. Basically you were herded into a line upon arrival, and then were clumped into random groups to squeeze in as many people as possible at a time up at the tasting counter. And the staff couldn’t even answer basic questions about the wine. The wines themselves were not particularly notable, especially compared to some of the other wonderful sips I enjoyed at other nearby spots.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Have a plan for getting between wineries. Some of these wineries are in close proximity, and others will involve a 20-30 minute drive in between. If you’re driving, know who in your group will be the designated driver. There are also several organized tours available in the area if you prefer to be chauffeured between places.

Share a wine tasting. If you’re like me, and are going in with the mindset of trying different wines and finding ones you like to buy for later, there’s no need to go crazy on the wine tasting. I usually find that two people can easily split a single tasting. Also, most wine tastings are for a fee, unlike other wine regions that offer complimentary tastings or waive the tasting fee if you purchase wine. Which makes sharing an economical option, too. It’s also good to share a tasting if you have a designated driver that will be doing some tasting of wines.

Have a plan for getting wine home. I’ve always driven on trips to Charlottesville, and the trunk of a car is a handy place for transporting wine. Pretty much all the wineries also have shipping options within the US if you’re coming from outside the area. Definitely something to think about before you go!

If you want a tour or private tasting, reserve in advance. Not only are there lots of families from the region who take advantage of the vast picnic areas at most wineries, but there are also lots of groups of all kinds, from bachelorette parties to alumni groups. So if you are planning to take a tour or would like a private tasting, reserve this with the winery in advance so you’re not disappointed.

Have you visited wineries in Charlottesville? What were your favorite places? Let me know if there are any great wineries I missed!

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The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

April 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Valpolicella and Soave are two of my favorite Italian wine regions, and conveniently both are a short distance outside the inviting Italian town of Verona, not far from Venice. The Valpolicella region to the north of Verona specializes in various red wines with a unique production method, while the Soave region to the east produces some lovely white wines. Most consider the Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany to be the two areas with the best producers, especially for Italian reds. While both of those regions are relatively close to Milan, it was actually the Valpolicella region where I ended up most often during my three years living in Italy, usually with visitors.

The reds of Valpolicella are in a slightly different style than Super Tuscans or a Piemontese Barolo, but can be more fruity and jammy, and in general more approachable. And I know several wine lovers whose favorite Italian reds come from this area, and these are certainly some of my favorites as well. Since the wine regions around Verona are less frequented by tourists than some of the other areas, it is easier to pop into a cantina without a reservation and taste wine. And you can find delicious wines at a great value, I’d definitely recommend planning to purchase wine as you taste, and having a plan for transporting the bottles back home.

In terms of the Valpolicella region, you’ll typically see 4 main types of red wine as well as a dessert wine called Recioto. All of these are made with different combinations and processing methods of the same main grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella (and sometimes Corvinone). The first, most basic wine is called Valpolicella Classico, the classic version that is not usually aged at all. The Valpolicella Superiore, or superior version, does undergo some aging, and is intended to be a more refined version of Valpolicella.

The fourth wine (yes, I skipped #3 on purpose) called Amarone is where the typical drying process of the Valpolicella region comes into play. When the grapes are harvested in the fall, usually around September or October, instead of being pressed right away, they are spread out and left to dry for several months, which intensifies the flavor of the grapes. Then sometime around January the grapes will actually be pressed and begin the multi-year aging process. Ripasso then is partway between a Valpolicella Superiore and an Amarone, since it involves the leftover pressed grapes from Amarone being mixed with Valpolicella Classico wine. The dessert wine Recioto is more similar to the straight Amarone, with residual sugars for sweetness (and this can vary from quite sweet to more balanced depending on the producer).

You might think that because of the somewhat linear progression of red wine production in Valpolicella, that everyone would like Amarone the best, then Ripasso, and so on. But that’s actually not how things shake out at all! Even without taking external factors like winery and the harvest year into play, some wine lovers prefer Ripasso while others prefer Amarone, depending on their personal tastes. Then when you consider the year of production and each winemaker’s approach, your favorite at a particular winery might be the Valpolicella Classico or Superiore. It all depends.

Which is why I advocate for doing a wine tasting when you visit, even if you’ve been before, since you may prefer different wines than last time (even at the same winery). Usually with each visit I was trying the wines from a different production year, and I’ve made repeat visits to most of the wineries on this list. So I’ve tasted different versions of the same wine over the years depending on what has recently been bottled and is available. Even at the same producer, my tastes as to which wines are my favorite have typically changed with each season. So taste before you buy, every time you go.

That same advice holds true for the Soave region on the other side of Verona: taste during each visit, as the wine changes quite a bit from year to year, even at the same producer. Soave itself is a white wine made principally from the Garganega grape, although other white grapes are sometimes included in small amounts. Like with Valpolicella reds, there are different levels of Soave – including a Superiore – depending on whether it is aged and the details of the blend.

Many Soave wineries also have vineyards in the area growing red grapes as well, so even if you go to taste white wines, you’ll be able to try their various Valpolicella reds as well. You don’t see much Soave wine in Valpolicella, although some of those wineries will produce other types of white wine. And a recent trend in the Valpolicella region is to use the same Amarone process of drying the grapes for months, but with different types of red grapes than you’d typically see, resulting in some of my favorite sips.

I’ve had some pretty fabulous wine tastings in the Valpolicella and Soave regions over my many visits. Here are my favorite places to go, listed alphabetically by region:

Valpolicella

Accordini Igino

Reservations: Not needed Mon-Fri, Required on Saturday

Tasting: Free, can also reserve a paid tasting paired with local food products

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

The staff is friendly and welcoming at this nearly 200-year old winery, with a light and inviting tasting room. The red wines typical of the region are solid, and they produce a few other white and red wines. I especially like their Recioto dessert wine, which isn’t sickly sweet but actually quite well-balanced.

Manara

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Bianco del Veneto, Rosso del Veneto, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

If you’re a non-Italian speaker, be sure to contact the winery in advance, as the one person in the tasting room does not always speak English. Their Valpolicella range is quite good, as is their Bianco del Veneto, or white wine from the region. But my absolute favorite, and the wine I can’t get enough of is their Rosso del Veneto, a jammy red produced from non-typical grapes in the Valpolicella style of drying the grapes first to intensify the flavors. Even if it’s not offered, be sure to ask to taste this gem, the Guido Manara!

Scriani

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

This family-run winery is welcoming, and has a beautiful tasting room and cellar where you’ll taste the wines. I think I’ve visited at least three or four times, and I like their wines better each time I go. Their straight Corvina is quite good, along with the full line of Valpolicella wines.

Speri

Reservations: Not needed, although there is the option to book in advance to visit the cellar

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Sant’Urbano, Amarone, Recioto

Another family-run place, there are usually several people on hand to provide a tasting, and I’ve never had to wait more than a few minutes for an English-speaking member of the family to guide me and my visitors. The wines are excellent, and I especially like their Sant’Urbano, which is partway between a Ripasso and an Amarone in taste. They have an excellent annual olive oil production for the family, with excess bottles on sale at the winery, so take advantage if they’re still available when you go.

Soave

Cantina di Soave

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting of 5 wines, for a modest fee

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

Founded in the late 1800s, this cantina, or winery, is actually a collective of grape producers from the area, with all grapes having to meet minimum quality requirements to be used in their production. You’ll only taste a handful of wines at the end of the tour, but they are delicious, and the winery offers a wider range of wines for purchase in their shop. And the winery itself is quite beautiful.

Monte Tondo

Reservations: Not needed, although it does get crowded sometimes; must reserve for tour

Tasting: Free, fee for the tour + tasting

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

The experience visiting Monte Tondo without a reservation has been varied for me, depending on the number of other guests. If it’s not crowded, you’ll get very attentive pours and descriptions, and it can be more rushed if you’re there during a busy period or when there is a group also visiting. It’s still a good option to drop in and sample a variety of Soave whites, although there is the possibility of guaranteeing dedicated attention by reserving a formal tour and tasting with cheese and charcuterie pairing for a fee.

TIP! Other than the dates of Cantine Aperte in May and September, most wineries are closed on Sundays.

If you’ve never tried a Valpolicella red wine or a Soave white, buy a bottle (or several) to try the next time you’re at the store. And if you’re planning a trip to Italy or happen to live nearby, the wine regions around Verona are fabulous spots to go wine tasting, even if you haven’t planned anything in advance.

Happy tasting!

Lana

Any questions you still have about wine tasting in Valpolicella and Soave? Other favorite wineries you think belong on this list? Hit me up with any questions or intel you have about the region and its wines in the ‘Comments’ below.

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8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

February 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“If the Romans made wine here 2,000 years ago, why can’t we today?”

These wise words from one of the more recent Israeli winemakers of the Judean Desert south of Jerusalem embody the explosion of new wineries in Israel over the last decade or so, with the most up-and-coming regions being located in Israel’s desert areas in the south of the country.

Wine has been produced in Israel for millenia – dating from biblical times and later during the Roman Empire – but modern Israeli wine-making has happened on a much shorter timescale, from the 1880s on. And it is the last decade or two in particular that has seen an explosion of new boutique wineries across Israel producing excellent bottles of wine. The recent expansion of wineries is not limited to just the number of wine producers, but also includes wineries popping up in new geographic areas of the country, bringing even more variety to what types of wines today constitute ‘Israeli wine.’ This also means that wherever you’re travelling in the country, there is likely a winery nearby that you can pop into for a visit and a tasting.

Traditionally the green, fertile areas of the Galilee and Golan Heights and the coastal areas in the north of the country have been the hub for wine production, and you’ll still find Israel’s oldest and largest wineries there. Some of the most interesting wines being produced however come from the newer wine-producing regions in the more arid regions to the south, whose varied terroir (soil) and climate lead to very different flavors and notes in the final product. Of course grapes can always taste quite different depending on where they’re grown, but Israel’s varied terrain over relatively small country makes it an especially interesting contrast as you taste your way through its wineries as you travel across the country.

In general, the red grapes grown throughout Israel today tend to be similar to those found in France, from the most common Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah and even some of the lesser-known red grape varietals like Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In terms of whites, you’ll see a lot of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, along with some German white wines like Gewurztraminer and Riesling.

I’ve personally visited most of the wineries on this list, however there are a few additional wineries producing excellent bottles right now that I’ve also included as options for a winery visit in the relevant regions below:

Wineries of Note

Coastal Areas

Carmel Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

Famous French winemaker Baron de Rothschild (of Chateau Lafitte renown) founded this winery in the late 1800s, kicking off the modern era of Israeli winemaking. Carmel is actually the largest winery in Israel, and has such interesting history it is also well worth it to come for the tour. If you get a chance, check out the original log books of expenses, and you’ll notice several incidences of the word bakshish (the Arabic word for bribe) listed in several different spellings – a recurring expense when the winery was first founded 😉 It is quite inexpensive for the basic tour, so you’ll definitely get your money’s worth here and also enjoy the several wines available for tasting whichever tour you choose.

Tulip Winery

Reservations: Not needed (except for groups)

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewurtztraminer, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Although I haven’t been personally, the wines from Tulip are so acclaimed I am compelled to include it on this list. Their wines are routinely on lists of top wines from Israel, and their visitor’s center garners high praise. Also, this family winery has a social conscience, employing many people with special needs from the surrounding community.

Golan Heights

Golan Heights Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

The Golan Heights Winery offers what I would characterize as the most touristy experience of the wineries on this list, with tour groups criss-crossing each other throughout the estate. Due to the several acclaimed labels produced by this winery, and their extensive operations, it’s definitely one of the wineries where it is worth the advance planning necessary for a visit. There are several levels of tours available in multiple languages beyond Hebrew and English. The different levels of tours vary in length, price, food offered, and which wines are available for tasting.

Pelter Winery

Reservations: Not needed except for groups

Tasting: Free, there is a per person fee for groups, which includes tour and wine tasting

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Have a phone or GPS handy, as this winery was a bit hard to find. Once you arrive, you’ll be rewarded by a tasting of excellent whites and interesting reds. While Pelter is a known brand you’ll find in many wine shops and on restaurant menus, you’ll be able to buy bottles for a much more reasonable price in person and have a great tasting experience. And while it may be pricier wine than the bottles you’ll find at other wineries, the quality makes it all worth it.

Judean Desert/Center

Domaine du Castel

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot

This winery involves a bit more effort to visit on your own, although it is a stop on a lot of organized wine tours. The wines include a chardonnay, rosé, and some red blends, many of which have received international recognition for their quality. Like several other wineries on this list, it is a family-managed winery, which you’ll feel on your visit. Do note that this is the priciest of the wine tastings, which includes a winery tour and cheese plate.

Flam Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting (with add-on option of cheese & bread), for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

While I’ve enjoyed a bottle of wine from Flam at a restaurant in Tel Aviv, I have not visited the winery personally. It is the second priciest winery tasting option on this list (with some of the priciest bottles of wine), however the winery has received so much attention lately I would be remiss to not include it. Definitely a stop for the serious oenophile.

Tzora Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

Tzora is unique to this list for being a boutique winery in a desert region that has actually been around for over two decades, producing wine since the early 1990s. One of the pioneering wineries of the Judean Hills, the team at Tzora has assembled a lot of expertise that shines through in the final product, always topping lists of the best Israeli wines.

Yatir Winery

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Viognier

Another one of my absolute favorite wineries, Yatir is one of Israel’s current outstanding producers. Like Pelter (see above), it is widely available in wine shops around Israel, although at a markup from what you can pay for the excellent quality in-person at the winery. A top winery for a visit, producing some truly excellent bottles worth taking home.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

There are a few additional things you may want to keep in mind when planning your wine tasting tour of Israel – or at least a tour of Israel with some wine tasting along the way =)

TIP! If you’ve rented a car, you’ll know you’re in the vicinity of a winery by the brown sign for sights of interest with grapes on it. The best part of taking a road trip is the spontaneity to go somewhere unexpected at a moment’s notice. If the mood strikes you, take advantage!

TIP! Most Israelis speak English well, and this is especially true at the wineries hosting visitors, so don’t worry about being able to understand your tour or tasting. Some of the larger wineries will also offer tours in additional languages.

TIP! A lot of wineries are closed on Saturday for the Jewish Sabbath, and many have limited hours on Friday as the Sabbath begins at sundown (so timing varies throughout the year). Plan your visits accordingly.

TIP! Wineries (and the country as a whole) will also close for other Jewish holidays that may not be on your radar, so definitely consult a Jewish calendar before planning your trip and your winery visits.

TIP! Even for the wineries that don’t require advance reservations, it is good to have a working phone handy to give them a heads up you’ll be coming or to get help with directions if you’re lost on the way.

TIP! Phone numbers in Israel begin with a zero followed by another number indicating the region, and cell phones all begin with 05. If you’re calling from an Israeli phone, include the zero. For calls from other places, when you add the +972 in front for the country code, leave off the zero from the number.

Israeli wine tasting for me ranks up there with some of the stellar tastings I’ve done in wine regions all over the world, from the US to Australia to France to Italy. And the environment is so different from wine regions you may be used to that even some of the grapes you think you know well are likely to surprise you.

If you’re not sure if you’ll have time to do a wine tasting at a winery, check out the ‘Wine’ section of my Foodie Bucket List for Israel for the best spot where you can do a number of tastings at wine bar in Tel Aviv.

Have you ever had Israeli wine? Any favorite Israeli wineries that didn’t make my list? Share any additional intel and comments below!

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Travel Superlatives of 2016

December 27, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

As I reflect back on this past year in travel, there are so many memories that bubble up. Unexpected adventures, delicious meals, and shared laughter with friends. And of course, also rushing through airports, lost luggage, or barely making the last train. About half my trips were with friends or family, and the other half as a solo traveler.

Travel is definitely not all rainbows and unicorns, but as someone told me once about travel: It’s either a great experience . . . or a great story! I end this year with quite a few of both, and heaps of gratitude for all of the adventures I was privileged to experience – the good, the bad, and the random.

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Most New Countries in a Year: 11! (and a full passport to boot)

I didn’t set out this year to visit a ton of new countries, it just sort of happened. Looking back, the new countries I made it to in Europe in 2016 – 6 – is actually quite similar to the 5 new European countries I explored last year (this year it was Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Liechtenstein, Romania, & Sweden for those of you keeping track). Ditto for Asia. Last year, I went to 2 new countries, and this year the same: Indonesia & Singapore. What really put me over the top was making it to Costa Rica for the first time on my family vacation back in August, and also getting a chance to explore 2 new countries in the Middle East with my sister this December: Oman & United Arab Emirates. Thanks, family!!

FYI, my American readers, the US phased out adding extra pages to passports at the end of 2015, so if your passport becomes full like mine, you’ll have to renew it to travel even if it’s not expiring yet. The good news is that when you renew, you can choose the longer length for no additional cost. Obviously something on my immediate to-do list in the new year 😉

Hardest Time Finding a Restaurant: Berat, Albania

When you’re traveling in Albania, you seek out Berat. Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is known as The Town of a Thousand Windows for the beautifully window-filled view you get of the hillside from the river. Many people stay in Berat overnight, but it can also be visited as a day trip during a weekend in Tirana like I did with friends back in May. We got an early start, and spent a good part of the morning hiking uphill and exploring the Berat Castle. Well after noon, we felt that we had taken in the sights, but had not been particularly inspired by the food choices inside the castle walls. And we saw one place right outside the walls, but it was a giant eatery with tour buses parked outside, so didn’t seem like our style either. Instead we found the restaurant that everyone had been raving about online as being the spot locals prefer, and started to make our way in that direction.

There were four of us including me, and with several people consulting the maps on their phone, we thought that surely we could find our way to this nearby spot quite quickly, as we were starting to get quite hungry. We started down the one hill connecting the castle entrance to town and it kept looking like a wiggle down the next side street would lead us to the restaurant entrance. I would pop down one alleyway, certain it was finally the right one, and then reappear a minute later dejected that there was no eatery present. Eventually, we made it to the bottom of the hill to town and close to the car, but let’s be real – we were committed to finding the restaurant at this stage! We drove a bit to side streets where an alternate online map placed the taverna. Then we returned to the bottom of the hill where we had started, and asked some locals passing by if they knew how to get there. Finally, after what was probably *way* too much time floundering on our own, we called the restaurant. The owner, being so gracious at what was now probably around 2pm, actually came to fetch us.

We were able to follow him in his car on a meandering path that brought us . . . to a restaurant right at the top of the path right by the castle! I think it had been hidden by the hilltop and the large restaurant with the tourist buses, but of course we had been right there at the beginning. Fortunately all of our efforts were rewarded, with a massive, delectable feast of Albanian food with a Greek twist at Taverna Lazaro.

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Place I Made the Most Friends on the Road: Waiting in Line for a Kebab in Berlin

I usually make the most friends on the road when I am traveling solo, and this year is no exception. In the end, I actually had relatively few trips when I was in a hostel-type accommodation, which is where I would normally meet other travelers. And although I did walking tours and other group activities on my own, it was actually in a quest for food that I found the most kindred spirits. Nothing brings people together quite like shared queuing, and on this particular night in Berlin, I was set on getting what is probably the city’s most famous kebab. The line was moving along at a decent clip, but then the stand ran out of supplies (!) and had to re-stock. So what was looking like a 20-minute wait became closer to an hour, and I had a chance to gain some insight on the city from two other expats: a Spaniard living and working in Berlin and a Taiwanese student studying there. More proof that you never know who’ll you meet on the road.

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Best Wine Tasting: Argiolas in Cagliari (Sardinia, Italy)

One of the best parts of living in Europe is the wine. Grapes tend to be very local, and grown and processed in a way to complement the typical food of a region. I’ve done my fair share of wine tasting all over Europe in 2016 (and even a bit in Australia this year), but there was one experience that was especially memorable and stands out from the rest – doing a tour and tasting at Argiolas Winery in Sardinia, a bit outside of Cagliari. Although I’ve gone on many wine tours, I felt like I actually learned about their specific techniques and how they differ from other wineries. And the tasting itself was just fabulous. My friend and I had one person talking us through the wines, accompanied by a bit of local food. All of the staff was so friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were so delicious, that we didn’t even realize until we had finished the last wine that we had taken so long our tasting had gone past the winery’s opening hours. Which really, is just a testament to the level of Italian hospitality we received.

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Craziest Hotel Check-in: Nessebar, Bulgaria

We’ve all been there. The crazy frustration of trying to find your hotel. It should be just around the corner. Or the GPS sends you one direction, but it just doesn’t like the correct route. Or in this case, sends you down a precarious gravel path. “No,” you think, “this can’t be right.” So you try an alternate route – which also turns out to be another gravel path. Finally you give up, and just park the corner in a random corner of the Bulgarian gravel road. And look up. And your friend says, “Hey, doesn’t that look like the picture of our hotel?”

End of story, right? If only… After confirmation from a nearby shop owner that we had indeed arrived at the correct destination, we walk into the building lobby. And there’s no reception. Hmmm….surely there must be staff somewhere, right? A quick pop to the salon downstairs finds it deserted. We call the phone number in the booking confirmation, and no reply. Then the waitress at the on-site restaurant is trying to be helpful, but speaks no English (and we speak no Bulgarian). Finally she directs us to one of the men sunbathing at the pool. My first thought is that it’s because he speaks English, but he actually turns out to be the building’s owner. “Great!” was my first – and misplaced – reaction. After studying the booking confirmation, the owner declares that there is no rental in his building under that description.

Ah, every frequent traveler’s nightmare. They gave away the last room, or the booking never existed in the first place. Images of curling up in the tiny car’s backseat for the night flash through my head, when the owner takes a moment to call the phone number we have on speakerphone. I catch a glance at his phone screen and realize that when he clicked “Send” a name popped up from his phone’s Contact List. As I wonder whether this is a good or bad sign, he quickly hangs up before someone has a chance to answer. He makes another call. This time it finally sounds promising, and I hear what sounds like “Italien” and I start gesturing saying, yes, I have an Italian phone number I used for my booking, it’s us. Does that mean we finally have a place to stay?? And yes, we have a room! He knows this person, and she is going to come and show us to our rooms. Imagine our relief when the room is just as expected, and even has a complimentary bottle of Bulgarian wine to greet us. As the door clicks behind her, out comes the joint, palpable, audible sigh. We’re finally checked in.

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Most People Visited in a Country I’ve Never Lived: 8 in Singapore

I visit friends in my travels often, and in fact, having a friend living in a foreign country is the best reason to get there for a visit! It’s great having a reason to explore a new, unexpected destination, and was how I picked several of my travel destinations this past year. Usually I travel to visit a single friend or family, with London as my usual exception, although most of my friends who live there I met in Milan. So it was quite random when I realized as I planned my November travel that I actually know quite a few people living in Singapore and there was never a better time to go.

There is the close Milan friend and previous around-the-corner neighbor who lives there with her husband and daughter, but may not be staying in Singapore much longer. The Singaporean college friend who I had seen relatively recently when she came to visit Milan during the World Expo last year, but whose days in Singapore are probably numbered as well. And then there’s the high school friend and her Singaporean husband and two children who only recently moved to Singapore. Several of these friends are now what I like to call 3-continent friends – people I’ve spent time with on three different continents. And for me it’s definitely notable to have so many different people from different stages of my life who just happen to all live in the same tiny island nation. While I didn’t know much about Singapore before visiting (other than having a ton of friends to visit), I became obsessed with the Singaporean style of breakfast and Singapore was one of my favorite destinations this year!

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Craziest Adventurous Things I Did:

Pemberton Climbing Trees (Australia) & Walking to Al Sawadi Island and Fort (Oman)

For me being adventurous doesn’t mean having no fear. Being adventurous is being confronted with something scary and/or dangerous, and then going outside of your comfort zone to do it anyway. There were two things in 2016 that really got my adrenaline pumping, both for being ostensibly dangerous, as well as me not really knowing what to expect ahead of time. First, was scaling the Pemberton climbing trees, which involved some incredibly tall trees and not much of a safety net. It was a bit terrifying, but also quite rewarding to reach the tops and take in the expansive views. Read more about the full experience in my post linked above and here.

The second pretty crazy thing I did was on my recent Oman trip with my sister. On the coast north of Muscat, there is a spot called Al Sawadi, with a nearby island and fort not too far off the beach. While there are boats you can pay to take you across, I had read something about being able to *walk* to the island during low tide. We arrived around 4pm and the water was looking quite low, but there was no one else walking across or anyone to ask. After a little bit of a walk when the water reached just up to knee level, we decided to go for it. This is only slightly complicated in Oman by the fact that it is a modest Muslim country where your shoulders and knees should be covered at all times in public. So you’re not just stripping down to your bikini and going for it. But venturing out into the unknown was great – the thrill and exhilaration of not knowing whether we’d be able to make it across, or if we did, how high the water level would rise before we reached the shore. In the end, my zip-off pants only got a little wet, and then we arrived and had the island entirely to ourselves! We hiked in our sport sandals to the top of the fort, took lots of pictures with the cell phones we were brave enough to carry for the journey, and had an even-lower tide for the walk back to where we had left the car, making it back across just as the sun set. An incredible and memorable experience, I’m reliving the excitement just typing about it.

Time Most Worth it to Trust a Stranger: Heading to the Cave at Wadi Khalid, Oman

I’m from New York, so it’s sort of second nature that when a stranger offers to help me out of the blue, my radar goes off and I become super skeptical of everything the person says and suggests. Perhaps it’s not the most open and loving way to live, but that is always my knee-jerk reaction: caution. Fortunately, the day exploring Wadi Khalid in Oman (a series of interconnected water pools and caves in the desert) came far enough into the week-long road trip that I already knew how hospitable Omanis were. Plus, they are so excited to see tourists – especially American ones – that they want you to have an amazing experience so you inspire others to visit when you go home.

As my sister and I were following the vague arrows pointing toward the Wadi’s famous cave, a man in traditional Omani dress fell into step beside us. He told us that he was heading to the cave as well, and as a local, knew the way quite well. My mind at this point was racing with possibilities, but we were just walking in that direction and were outside with plenty of other visitors. At one point I did inquire as to why he was so interested in showing us around, and he revealed that he was a police officer in Muscat and wanted to practice his English. It sounded legit, and again, we were not alone, but it was quite interesting crouching into a dark cave with no signs or directions, blindly following the instincts of a local who had been many times before. Our new Omani friend Said was a great guide, showing us the water source of the wadi, pointing out bats that were hanging from the ceiling just above our heads, and giving us the full experience of the cave. There’s no way my sister and I would have ventured that far alone, and it was just incredible to see the caverns and crevices inside.

Biggest Travel Injury: Stubbed Toe in Abu Dhabi

Anyone who knows me knows that I can be quite clumsy, so an injured toe as my biggest injury of the year is a major accomplishment. Interestingly enough, if I am doing a potentially dangerous activity like rock climbing or cliff diving, I’m quite attentive and tend to emerge unscathed. My biggest injuries ever? Both my broken collarbone and severely injured finger resulted from what was essentially me tripping over my own feet.

Stubbing my toe in Abu Dhabi doesn’t sound serious, but it was quite a wound. Basically, I was walking back to bed after a middle-of-the-night trip to the bathroom, and didn’t realize that one of the stylish chairs with metal legs reached out almost to the edge of the bed. I thought I would have cleared it by a mile, but instead I walked quite decisively forward and essentially sliced my second toe open. So it was more serious (and bloody) than your typical stubbed toe, and it hurt to walk for the next 10 days, as in it was painful taking e-v-e-r-y s-i-n-g-l-e s-t-e-p. But for a year of travel and adventure (and given my lifelong tendency to injure myself weirdly and quite seriously), not too bad at all.

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Travel First: Getting Put Up in a Hotel

Lost luggage? Yes, many times, sometimes for up to several days.

Missed a connecting flight? Of course, but usually with good, alternate options to still get there within a few hours.

Been on an overbooked flight offering vouchers? Plenty of times, but usually when I was in the US traveling for work and had to be somewhere by a certain time, so I’d never taken advantage.

Slept in an airport? Sure, most memorably at the Dallas airport in a snowstorm when I was trying to be there for the first flight back to New York for New Year’s Eve & at the Kuala Lumpur budget terminal (never again!)

Missing a connection and needing to stay in a hotel overnight? That had never happened to me before – until a week ago, so just under the wire to be part of my 2016 travel superlatives. I had just over an hour of transit time at London’s Heathrow Airport, which is cutting it quite close to begin with. Then, as we were lining up to board the bus that would take us to the plane in Milan, the snow started to fall. What?!? It almost never snows in Milan, because it’s usually not quite cold enough. And snow certainly had not been part of the forecast. When the captain announced that there was a long line to de-ice the plane and we would likely be delayed at least 30 minutes, I flagged over a flight attendant to ask about my connection. When he informed me that you need to scan through the transfer desk at Heathrow 35 minutes before your departure time to be allowed on the plane, I knew I was in trouble. In the US, they would likely send information up to the plane about the connecting flight, or at least the crew would be able to phone and request it. For this London connection, I had the sinking feeling that I would be out of luck, which was confirmed when we touched down an hour late.

By the time someone was available to help me at the re-booking desk, the best option was just to take the same early afternoon flight the following day. Spend an unexpected 24 hours in London, catching up with friends and soaking up the holiday atmosphere? If I must…

Most Times Crossing Paths with a Friend – and half the time accidentally!

It’s one thing to plan a lot of travel with a good friend, it’s quite another to have the one person you keep running into at unplanned moments in unexpected cities. Of the 6 times I’ve crossed paths with this one particular friend, our run-ins have spanned 4 cities on 2 continents – and only 2 were arranged in advance! We had planned to be in Bucharest, Romania (where she is from) over the same weekend in early June so she could show me around and we could hang out. Then a few weeks beforehand when her schedule was too busy on a business trip to Milan, a work dinner fell through and she messaged me last minute so we met up for a meal. In August when I was in New York, she messaged me about a last-minute work trip that had also brought her to the city, so we had another unplanned meal together. And then, the very next night on the way to meet another friend, I walked into another restaurant in a completely different part of town. And the first person I see? This same friend! Our 5^th meeting of the year was arranged in advance, when I came to London to see the American football (NFL) game with my home team playing. And then on my recent missed connection in London, I messaged this friend to see if she was possibly around. It turned out that about an hour after my message she was actually coming to the same terminal of Heathrow Airport where I was stranded! So we met up for a coffee, and our last in a string of prolific, unexpected run-ins throughout 2016.

What were the stand-out moments of your 2016 travel??