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Top 9 Things to do in the Le Marche region of Italy

Top 9 Things to do in the Le Marche region of Italy

East of Tuscany on the Adriatic coast is one of Italy’s lesser-known regions, Le Marche, where you can avoid the tourist hordes and enjoy some pretty incredible Italian experiences and cuisine.

I’ve visited many times, for relaxing long weekends and outdoor adventure, for wine tasting and relaxing on the beach, for hiking and exploring walled cities. The region of Le Marche is probably a destination where you’ll want to rent a car (and you can check out my Best Tips for European Road Trips), but you’ll be so glad to have the flexibility to explore off the main train line along the coast.

You may never have heard of Le Marche before – and travel guidebooks don’t help much – so I’ve compiled a list of the top things to do while you’re there. And once you’ve mapped out the attractions you’ll want to visit, I recommend finding a nearby guesthouse to stay, where you can chat with the owner for some insider information on the area and have an even better experience.

Top Things to Do

Relax on the Beach

Beach Le Marche Italy 20160921_152331

Le Marche is a coastal region, with its eastern border along the Adriatic Sea, so there is no shortage of beaches for swimming, suntanning, and relaxing.

If you’ve been to Croatia you know that Adriatic beaches tend to have pebbles instead of sand, and Le Marche is the same for the most part. Which is why Senigallia is a popular beach destination, as one of the only sandy beaches in the region.

Beach Le Marche Italy DSC_0216

The other main attraction in terms of Le Marche beaches is the Conero Riviera, south of the regional capital of Ancona, with some absolutely stunning coastline.

Several of the beaches can be accessed on foot or at least closely approached in a car. One exception is the lovely Due Sorelle (two sisters) beach, only accessible by boat from Numara, and usually a less crowded spot to enjoy the sea.

Eat: Savor Local Specialties.

I’m no expert on Marchegiana cuisine, and like all over Italy it varies from town to town, but Marche like other parts of Italy is known for its regional food specialties.

Probably the most well-known across Italy are the beloved olive ascolane, which are olives stuffed with a ground pork mixture, then breaded and fried.

Less likely to find in other parts of Italy are some of the primi, or first courses. Vincisgrassi is a local variation on lasagna, usually baked with chicken livers, and you’ll often seen passatelli pasta featured on menus, made by passing a breadcrumb dough through a shaper until it emerges in the shape of spaghetti.

Passatelli Le Marche Italy 20160921_214240

Various sausages and game dishes are also common, as is brodetto, a fish stew made traditionally with 13 types of fish and seafood, to represent the number of people at the Last Supper. Whatever corner of Le Marche you find yourself in, one thing is guaranteed – you’ll eat well!

Caves & Undergrounds

Basically, there are lots of caves and undergrounds all over Le Marche. As long as you’re not scared of enclosed spaces, there are some great spots to check out:

  • Frasassi Caves. The largest cave system in Europe, these are a must-visit spot if you’re in Le Marche! The claim to fame here is that the initial chamber of the Frasassi Caves is so large that the Duomo di Milano, Milan’s Cathedral, could fit completely inside. There is a long, meandering path you’ll follow if you take basic tour (guides are mandatory for a visit) or if like me, you’re a bit more adventurous, there are 2 spelunking tours through these natural caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Although no pictures allowed =(I love going behind the scenes, so signed up for one of the “Speleo-Adventure” tours, and had a blast. You’ll change into coveralls and tall rubber boots, because you’ll get quite muddy along the way. And do ask ahead of time about language. My tour was in Italian (and fortunately my Italian is quite good), but if you don’t speak the language, be sure there’s someone who can relay safety instructions to you in English before you book.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While you’re there, it’s a short car ride or a reasonable stroll from the entrance to the Frassasi caves to the parking lot where a leisurely path starts up the mountain and brings you to the Temple of Valadier, a church inside of a cave!

  • Frasassi Le Marche Italy DSC_0290Frasassi Le Marche Italy DSC_0314
  • Camerano. Not nearly to the scale of Frasassi, and a bit different since this cave system is man-made, there is an excellent tour available in English that will take you through the passageways. At different points in time there were spaces used for religious worship, wine-making, and as a shelter during wartime. An incredibly interesting spot to check out if you’re nearby.Camerano Le Marche Italy DSC_0319Camerano Le Marche Italy DSC_0324

Wine Tasting

This is Italy, so of course there are incredible wines to sample. They are made from grapes local to the region, and meant to pair well with the local cuisine. This is just how Italy rolls.

The wines you’re most likely to encounter on a Le Marche menu are the Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno – two basic, local reds – and the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a mineral-rich white wine meant to pair well with local fish and seafood dishes.

Antica Cantina Sant'Amico in Morra d'Alba
Antica Cantina Sant’Amico in Morra d’Alba

An absolute favorite though is the relatively unknown appellation of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, A red wine made from lacrima grapes in (yep, you guessed it) the town of Morro d’Alba, this usually young red is very particular in taste, so you’ll probably love it or hate it. It is fruity and aromatic, while fairly dry.

The wine can vary greatly from year to year, so enjoy a tasting and then decide what to buy if you visit a winery. Otherwise, you’ll definitely see it on restaurant wine lists around the region.

Explore Walled Cities

A function of the rolling hills of Le Marche, the region is dotted with walled cities who built the structures as a means of defense. Today they are picturesque spots to visit, usually with an Old Town of centuries-old buildings and cobblestone streets inside.

My favorites:

  • Urbino. Urbino is definitely the largest walled city on this list, with the most to see inside. It is the birthplace of renowned artist (and Ninja Turtle) Raphael, and has quite a few museums and a Cathedral inside. It is well-lit in the evening, and has many winding cobblestone streets and various lookout points to see the surrounding countryside.Urbino Le Marche Italy 1263Urbino Le Marche Italy 20141109_195520 (2)
  • Gradara. Much smaller than Urbino, Gradadara is known for its castle, which you can explore along with strolling on the city walls. Supposedly packed in summer, my friend and I had a pretty solitary visit in September, enjoying the beautiful views of the countryside and the views inside this hilly town.Gradara Le Marche Italy DSC_0087Gradara1 Le Marche Italy DSC_0027Gradara2 Le Marche Italy DSC_0049 (2)
  • Corinaldo. Very teeny, Corinaldo packs in all you need from one of Le Marche’s walled cities. It has cobblestone streets, great views of the surrounding area, and delicious food. It also has 2 quirky claims to fame – a polenta well that according to legend fed the city during a siege & also a house with just a facade, built by a heavy-drinking father to send pictures to his son overseas that the money being sent home was being put to good use. Now there’s a plaque to mark the spot.Corinaldo Le Marche Italy DSC_0252
    Gate into Corinaldo
    The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times
    The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

    Corinaldo Le Marche Italy DSC_0258

Take a Hike

Hike Le Marche Italy DSC_0285

There are a number of hikes throughout the region, but the main hiking destination in Le Marche is Monti Sibillini National Park. There are several biking and hiking itineraries available, including a vast loop that will take multiple days to complete. If you’re interested in a multi-day trip, there are accommodations available along the way.

Visit the Acqualagna Truffle Festival

The real reason we're here: white truffle festival in AcqualagnaAcqualagna Truffle Festival Le Marche Italy IMG_1259

The Alba Truffle Festival in Piedmont in northern Italy may be more famous, but Le Marche’s own fall Truffle Festival in Acqualagna has the same renowned white truffles and is definitely less crowded and easier to explore.

There are outdoor stands with various vendors of truffle products and whole white truffles for sale. There is also a large indoor area, selling nearly everything under the sun.

And since it’s the season of truffle, whatever restaurants you visit in the area in the October/November timeframe will have plenty of dishes with white truffle shaved over top.

No Italian event centered around food would be complete without wine as an accompaniment, so the festival also has wineries represented in various booths, and a whole stand just for wine tasting, with bottles from around the region.

Even if you’re not there in fall, there are two Acqualagna black truffle festivals, one in February and the other in August (although I don’t recommend an August visit to Le Marche, see the ‘When to Go’ section below).

READ MORE: How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

Go Skydiving

You probably don’t associate Italy with skydiving, but the region of Le Marche specifically is known for being a great spot for it. It even made #8 on this list of top skydiving sites in the world!

On my first trip to Le Marche, several of the other people in the traveling group went skydiving for the first time in Le Marche and absolutely loved it. Whether it would be your first time doing it, or you have a lot of jumps under your belt, Le Marche is THE PLACE to skydive.

Inhale the Aroma of Sunflowers

Sunflowers Le Marche Italy DSC_0324Sunflowers Le Marche Italy DSC_0327

Even if you didn’t know that sunflower fields abound in Le Marche before your trip, any road trip in the region at the right time of year will inevitably drive past lovely yellow expanses.

Sunflowers typically bloom in early summer, with the exact dates depending on the weather conditions that year. If you love flowers, or sunflowers in particular, you can see beautiful fields of them all over Le Marche.

When to Go

There are lot of great times during the year to visit Le Marche. What will be best for you of course, all depends on which activities appeal to you most:

  • Sunflowers are typically in peak bloom in late June through July.
  • The Acqualagna Truffle Festival typically takes place in late October and early November.
  • Fall and spring are probably the most comfortable seasons for hiking.
  • And of course the beach will be most pleasant in summer, and less crowded before and after.

I visited in early July when I saw sunflowers, I did a road trip to walled cities and caves around Le Marche last September, and I went to the Acqualagna truffle festival and nearby towns in early November. All wonderful trips =)

The only thing I would caution against is visiting in August. Pretty much all Italians (as well as other Europeans) take vacation then, so the beaches and attractions are likely to be packed.

And for me, a big part of the appeal of visiting Le Marche is heading to a destination *without* the crowds.

The diversity of activities to do in Le Marche is quite amazing, and even if you’re looking for a relaxed itinerary, there are plenty of places to kick up your heels and enjoy the countryside or the coast. Just like most of my all-time favorite destinations, there are a lot of varied activities available and beautiful scenery along the way.

Have you been to Le Marche? Any things to do that I missed and should add? What activities are most likely to draw you to visit a new place?

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Top 9 Things to Do in Le Marche Italy - an alternative to Tuscany

Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips

Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips

Malta felt like it was on my bucket list forever.

At a short, direct plane ride from Milan, going never seemed urgent during the three years I lived in Italy. Which meant that I never went!

Fast forward to an autumn European trip I was planning after moving back to the US, and I knew Malta was a destination I definitely wanted to include on my visit.

The biggest question I got – “Why are you going to Malta?”

Apparently most people know very little about this small group of islands south of Sicily, so I wanted my first blog post about Malta to be filled with all the incredible reasons to go!

Top Reasons To Visit Malta

It’s Affordable

Even though Malta has become popular as a cruise ship port and with other European tourists, it is still quite affordable. You can get a pretty good tasting menu at a restaurant for around 30 or less, which is always a great marker for me of how much things cost. Street food is dirt cheap.

Pastizzi Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181001_142402

It’s even affordable to get there, with many discount flights arriving from all over Europe. Plus, there are plenty of reasonable accommodation options for your stay.

Save up to 30% on your hotel on your next upcoming trip!!
TripAdvisor

Cute Fishing Villages

Marsalokk Fishing Village Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181002_184341

Yes, this is just as picturesque as you’re imagining! Traditional fishing villages have remained from ancient times and can be spotted by their traditionally painted boats. You’ll see some of the luzzu with a painted eye on each side due to the Phoenician custom to ward off evil and protect fishermen at sea.

Forts to Explore

Fort St. Elmo in Valletta
Fort St. Elmo in Valletta

The islands of Malta, once part of the British Empire and now part of the Commonwealth, have held strategic importance in the Mediterranean for millenia. So it’s not surprising that it is a country with plenty of fortifications you can still visit today dotting its coastline, from massive forts to fortified lookout towers.

Ghajn Tuffieha Tower
Ghajn Tuffieha Tower

It’s even been sometimes known as ‘Fortress Island’ due to the number of forts and its safe, natural harbors for ships.

Maltese Food

You know I’d go pretty much anywhere if I heard good things about the food! As an island nation that changed hands many times in history, Maltese cuisine includes Spanish, French, Italian, and other Mediterranean influences.

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Rabbit is considered to be the national dish and another local favorite is pastizzi, a palm-sized flaky pastry typically filled with cheese or a pea mixture. And the desserts will make you swoon – my favorite was imqaret, an Arabic-inspired pastry filled with a date spread.

Imqaret Date Pastry Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181002_221119

Coastline Dotted with Caves and Pools

St Peter's Pool
St Peter’s Pool

The rocky coast of Malta lends itself to caves that have been carved out by crashing waves, or indentations in the rock that form natural pools.

Blue Grotto
Blue Grotto
By the Ta Kalanka Sea Cave
By the Ta Kalanka Sea Cave

These are worth the effort to seek out as they are often not as crowded as the beaches and are beautiful places to explore and swim.

Ancient Stone Cities

Entrance to Mdina
Entrance to Mdina

Part of Malta’s heavy fortifications mean that there are also walled, stone cities throughout. Most famous are the coastal capital Valletta and Mdina in the center, which served as Malta’s capital through medieval times.

Valletta's Wall
Valletta’s Wall

The results have stood for centuries and are beautiful to visit today.

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

Wine Culture & Visiting Wineries

Marsovin Winery Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips DSC01092

Yes, Malta has wine! Delicious wine that you’re unlikely to have tasted if you’ve never been. I visited two wineries on my trip and had great tours and tastings at both.

Marsovin Winery Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181004_123029Maria Rosa Wine Estate Winery Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181001_114628

Even without going to a winery, you’ll be able to sample a variety of Maltese wines by the glass, half-bottle, carafe, and bottle at your meals each day. While familiar grapes are grown in Malta, there are also some delicious indigenous grapes like Ghirgentina (a white) and Gellewza (for red wine), both delicious varietals blended or on their own.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bowop_JFNIl/

Beaches

Ghajn Tuffieha Beach
Ghajn Tuffieha Beach

The archipelago of Malta is composed of islands, so there are plenty of beaches to enjoy nearby wherever you decide to stay. Since the landscape is inclined toward creating natural harbors, all of the beaches I visited had stunning and dramatic views of the Maltese coastline.

St. George's Beach
St. George’s Beach

The swimming was lovely too, of course.

Impressive Archaeological Sites

Exploring the Tarxien Temples
Exploring the Tarxien Temples

From the 6,000 year old prehistoric burial site known as the Hypogeum to ancient temples and catacombs, archaeological sites are located all over Malta, and provide an interesting window into this region’s past.

St. Paul's Catacombs in Rabat
St. Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat

If you like history or are fascinated by ancient cultures and traditions, there are plenty of spots to explore all over Malta.

Sunsets

Sunset Upper Barrakka Gardens Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20180930_185011

There have been some places I’ve seen in my travels where the sunset is gorgeous and colorful nearly every night. And Malta is one of those places.

Sunset Upper Barrakka Gardens Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20180930_184413

Wherever you are on the island, know when the sun will be going down so you can plan to be outside and watch the show. Malta had some of my favorite sunsets of the whole year!

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2018

Sunset at St. Julian's Bay
Sunset at St. Julian’s Bay

Outdoor Activities

Coastal Hike Wied Babu Park Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181004_162213

The landscape of Malta is both dramatic and beautiful, and there are many way to take advantage of the great outdoors. There are interior hiking trails and also rocky coastal walks that link different beaches.

Coastal Hike Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181001_174933

Malta is also known for one of my favorite sports, rock climbing, and has incredible limestone to climb on both Malta and Gozo. There are plenty of other outdoor adventure opportunities like cycling and diving as well.

Boats, Boats, Boats!

Boats Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181004_092706

I love seeing boats and traveling by boat, and being on Malta with its many harbors provides plenty of chances to do both. There is a functional ferry to get between Sliema and the capital Valletta, as well as ferries and tours departing from many main spots around Malta, Gozo, and Comino. Even if boat travel is not your thing, plenty of boats will be docked and provide beautiful views along Malta’s coast.

TripAdvisor

Top Tips for When You Go

Transportation

The main thing you’ll want to know about getting around Malta is that there is lots of traffic! Traditional rush hours are the worst, but there always seem to be a lot of vehicles on the road and often bus delays.

If you decide on taking public transit (like I did), it is easy to purchase your bus pass from the public transit stand next to the Costa Coffee and by the exit from the airport – either from a person or the machine.

Bus Malta Public Transport Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20180930_154103

There is an Explore Card that is just for the bus and an ExplorePlus Card that also includes a round-trip ticket on the Valletta ferry and either a day on a hop-on hop-off bus around the island or a boat to the Maltese island of Comino. More details and prices are HERE.

Bus Explore Card Malta Public Transport Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181005_111346

TIP! The two downsides for me of riding the bus were the delays that made it hard for transferring bus lines and also when rush hour buses from Sliema to Valletta were so crowded they did not stop to let additional passengers on.

Bus Malta Public Transport Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181004_092039

If you don’t love walking as much as I do (or are not as patient) you’ll probably want to rent a car for your time in Malta.

TIP! Be aware that if you’d like to take the car to one of the other islands, ferry space for a car can be quite limited and you’ll want to arrange this in advance or arrive very early to queue.

In either case, when you first arrive, a taxi is likely your easiest option to arrive at your accommodation, and there are set prices for each destination. My taxi trip from the aiport to Sliema (across the water from Valletta) was 20.

Airport Taxi Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20180930_154636

Traveling Solo

Malta is a great destination for traveling solo, especially since pretty much everyone speaks English, as a former British colony and now part of the Commonwealth. I was there for 5 nights on my own and had an easy time navigating and taking advantage of the different sights and activities around Malta, including getting a reservation for 1 at many of the restaurants. Malta is also very affordable, so even when you’re not splitting the cost of a room, it doesn’t break the bank to make the trip.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

READ MORE: How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

Eating and Drinking

For whatever reason, tasting menus are plentiful around Malta, which was wonderful for me as a solo traveler who likes to try as many dishes as possible when I travel!

Tasting Menu Ta Marija Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips 20181003_202012

TIP! A lot of restaurants have a small capacity, so be sure to reserve ahead of time, even if it’s just earlier in the day for that same evening.

TIP! Making a reservation is necessary, even as a solo traveler!

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

READ MORE: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

While you might not be able to pick out the small archipelago of Malta on a map (you should go look!) there is so much see, do, and enjoy on the various islands. Now, go plan that trip!

Happy travels!
Lana

Have you been to Malta? What were the highlights for you? What types of activities do you look for most in your travels?

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Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips

Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California

Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California

The word ‘Napa’ for many is synonymous with fine American wine and there is no shortage of excellent wineries to explore in California’s Napa and Sonoma Valleys.

Of course, the sheer number of choices can be a bit overwhelming. Fortunately for you, I’ve done endless hours of research and then spent a lot of hours over several trips tasting my way through many of the wineries across the region, and have compiled my favorite spots.

And in most cases, there’s no fancy knowledge or preparation needed for wine tasting – just stop by a winery and ask to taste some wine!

Most wineries offer a range of white and red wines, but there also those that specialize in sparkling wines or dessert wines. And you’ll see quite a few fortified and dessert wine choices across the list below, because I have a bit of a sweet spot for fortified wines.

While it’s not technically “port” if made outside of Porto, Portugal, plenty of wines of that style can be found in Napa and Sonoma. Traveling and tasting in the region was the first time I learned that port didn’t have to be red, but could also be blonde or from different red grapes.

Over multiple trips, I’ve been to more wineries than made this (alphabetical) list, which focuses just on my favorite spots with the wines I’ve enjoyed most, which span quite a range of prices and styles.

Some are large and commercial, but I like their wine and the tasting experience anyway. Even if you’ve seen one (or several!) of their bottles at your local wine store, I still think it’s worth a visit to some of the large wineries in person – and those are the ones I’ve included in this post.

Others are this list are pretty specialized or so small you may not have heard of them, but they all have something unique to offer to your wine tasting experience.

Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma

Even if you’ve never been wine tasting before, there’s nothing to be intimidated of. In Napa and Sonoma, winery staff is accustomed to introducing first-time winery visitors to how it all works.

Most, if not all, of the wineries also offer a full tour. And if you’ve never toured a winery before, I definitely would book one or two to learn more about production and see the stages first-hand. But all of the wineries have tasting rooms, and it’s perfectly acceptable to come just to taste some wines.

I’ve listed below the official information available about each winery, however a lot of the nuances of your experience will relate to the person who is pouring your wine. Even if there is a tasting fee listed, it is often waived if you make a purchase, even if they don’t mention that explicitly.

And if there’s anything you’re unsure about, don’t hesitate to ask – over the phone, by e-mail, or in person during your tasting.

My favorite spots to enjoy:

Armida

We actually saw someone take this for a ride while we were eating lunch

Our picnic lunch in front of the duck pond

Reservations: Not needed
Tasting: $20, waived with purchase
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Zinfandel

In case you didn’t know, California is known for its red zinfandel production and it is one of my favorite varietals of grape there for its rich, fruity flavor. Affectionately nicknamed “zin” by local winemakers, Armida winery makes a delicious version it’s famous for, called “PoiZin.” The winery is a bit quirky (there’s the option of getting your PoiZin in a wooden coffin-shaped box!) but wines are delicious and there’s also a spectacular view on property, where you can enjoy a picnic lunch.

TIP! If you visit the grounds, there are great food products available from Oakville Grocery‘s nearby Healdsburg location that make for a great picnic.

BR Cohn

A trio of ports at B.R. Cohn (we bought one)

Reservations: Not needed
Tasting: $25-$50 depending on the tasting
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, port-style dessert wine

The winery tasting room is in a quaint house and features several award-winning typical grapes from the area. My favorites here have been their red wines, especially their port-style dessert wine. The port is so popular that the releases often sell out, but new vintages are released around summertime each year. BR Cohn is also an olive oil purveyor, and you can try their different infused-varieties or grab some food at their shop to enjoy with your tasting (and freshen up your taste buds in between all the wine).

Chateau St. Jean

Chateau St. Jean Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California CIMG3206

The lush greenery at the entrance

Reservations: Recommended
Tasting: $15
Varietals: Chardonnay, Malbec, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Sparkling, Syrah

This is a larger winery, and definitely one you may have seen represented at your local wine store. But the wines are affordable and delicious, and the staff is friendly and helpful. In addition to the most typical wines you’ll see, Chateau St. Jean also offers other French varietals like Pinot Gris and Syrah. I usually buy the most bottles here of any winery when I visit.

Gloria Ferrer

Gloria Ferrer Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California CIMG3174

Reservations: Not needed
Tasting: $7-20 for wines by the glass, $25-33 for flights
Varietals: Albariño, Blanc de Blancs, Blanc de Noir, Brut, Extra Brut, Pinot Noir

Gloria Ferrer offers a wide variety of wines, including some Spanish ones, but by far it is best known for its sparkling wine options. The tasting room and outdoor terrace are equally beautiful, and I’d honestly recommend purchasing a flight of wines or a glass to enjoy outside when the weather is nice.

J Winery

A beautiful view at J Winery

Reservations: Not needed for Signature Tasting, encouraged for higher-end tasting or tour
Tasting: $20+, waived with purchase of $100 or more
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Pinot Noir, Ratafia dessert wine, Sparkling

First, the wine here is phenomenal. J Winery is known best for their Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, although I also can’t get enough of their not-too-sweet Ratafia dessert wine. The winery itself is also beautiful, from the scenic grounds to the giant art installations and design of the indoor bar, and definitely worth visiting when you go.

La Crema

La Crema Tasting Room Healdsburg Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California CIMG1008 (2)

Reservations: Not needed for Signature or Vineyard Select tasting, required for other tastings or groups of 7+
Tasting: $15+
Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir

While there are a few other wines available, the vast majority of the La Crema production is Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, and they definitely do both well. There is an estate to visit, but also a tasting room in downtown Healdsburg, which is where I enjoyed sampling the wines and purchasing a bunch to enjoy at home.

Morlet

Morlet Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California CIMG1018

Reservations: Required. Tastings by appointment only, scheduling recommended 1-3 months in advance.
Tasting: $150 per person, waived with purchase of 6 bottles or more
Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah

This might be the most high-end Napa/Sonoma area winery I’ve visited. It was worth the effort to reserve ahead of time – which is not my usual style – and the wines really are that good. Their wines are so eminently age-able that I still have some bottles from a Napa trip in 2011 left to savor. Since then one of the Morlet white blends I purchased was even served at the White House for a state dinner with the French president!

Peju

At Peju, another winery

Reservations: Required from groups of 8+
Tasting: $35+
Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Zinfandel

The tasting room here is beautiful and Peju Winery has one of the largest varieties of different types of wine at a single winery, which also makes it a popular destination. But if you’re not sure what you like, this is a great place to start! My absolute favorite is the rosé wine, which comes in a few different styles from dry to sweeter ones, so there is likely a choice you will enjoy.

Prager Winery & Port Works

Reservations: Call to reserve, reservation required
Tasting: $30 (and you get to keep the glass)
Varietals: Blonde port, Petite Sirah port, Tawny port, White port

I haven’t visited Porto, Portugal (yet), so this is the only place I’ve been where I got to taste 5 different port-style wines one right after another. I love the style, and getting to taste so many together really helps you hone in on which one you like best. And yes, I still have my glass!

Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars

Reservations: Not needed, unless 5+ people
Tasting: $45+
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc

Not to be confused with Stag’s Leap Winery, the Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars has some serious Cabernet Sauvignon wines. I don’t always like Cabernet from the region, but I really like theirs. And their white wines are also wonderful and at a much more affordable price point.

Trefethen

Trefethen Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California CIMG3181Trefethen Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California CIMG3183

Reservations: Suggested, especially on weekends
Tasting: $25+
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling

Despite feeling very high-end and having some incredible wines, Trefethen offers a very affordable price point for a tasting flight compared to other wineries of its caliber. Wines are delicious across the board, but the most memorable one for me still (and yes, there’s still one bottle of this left on my wine rack) is the signature O-K-D blend, standing for the Oak Knoll District where the winery resides. A mix of one to five red grapes depending on the year, the result is always a bold, fruity, spicy blend worth savoring.

Trefethen Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California CIMG3184

V. Sattui

A very famous winery that was too crowded for us to visit on Sunday

Reservations: Only required for parties of 11+
Tasting: $20+
Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Zinfandel, dessert wines including port and madeira

The 11-person minimum to require a reservation should tell you a little bit about how many people and groups come through this winery tasting room daily. I don’t usually seek out (or return) to wineries this popular and crowded for a visit, but V. Sattui is an exception because their dessert wines are just so good. They have a vintage port which I like sometimes, but always excellent are their madeira and Angelica fortified wines.

Bringing Wine Home

Now that you’ve visited Napa and Sonoma and stocked up on wine, how do you transport it home? The up side of the popularity of the Napa and Sonoma regions is that there is a lot of wine tourism and the wineries and local wine shops are well-equipped to help you get your wine souvenirs home safely.

Driving

If you are lucky enough to live within driving distance of the Napa and Sonoma regions, you’ll probably be fine with whatever packaging you get at each winery in terms of getting any bottles you purchase home safely.

TIP! Just be cautious of leaving wine in the car in extreme temperatures, which can damage the wine.

Shipping

Pretty much all wineries will offer some type of shipping service, but at a price. However, if it is not practical for you to carry your wine purchases with you, the easiest thing can often be to have wineries ship wine to your home directly, although of course this is more economical from Napa and Sonoma if you live somewhere in the United States.

TIP! Sometimes there are shipping deals if you purchase a minimum number of bottles from a single winery, so be sure to ask about this at your favorite spots.

TIP! If you live in the US, each state has its own rules about shipping wine. The winery should be able to look this up for you if you’re not already familiar with any limitations where you live.

Packing in Your Luggage

If you do this carefully, you should be fine. Trust me, I have a bit of experience with this, from my wine tourism all over the world.

     READ MORE: 8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

     READ MORE: Wineries to Seek Out in Italy’s Piedmont Region

     READ MORE: Wineries to Seek Out in Italy’s Valpolicella and Soave Regions

My best advice for packing wine inside of luggage is to purchase some special bubble-wrapped wine transporters in advance and then use your clothes in luggage as additional cushioning. I have been using these Wine Skins for years and cannot recommend them enough:

[easyazon_link identifier=”B00GIX531O” locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Wine Skin Wineskin Bag, 2-, 4-, 6- or 8-Pack[/easyazon_link]

[easyazon_image align=”none” height=”500″ identifier=”B00GIX531O” locale=”US” src=”https://www.travelsavvygal.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/03/5109zpGEhXL.jpg” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″ width=”500″]

TIP! Even if you’re using a Wine Skin, wrap in clothes as well for extra cushioning.

TIP! Be sure that your luggage is completely full so nothing shifts in transit.

TIP! Most countries have limits on the amount of alcohol you can import before a duty applies, so if you travel internationally with a lot of bottles inside your luggage, be sure to claim them upon entry.

Taking a Case of Wine as Checked Luggage

Again, due to the popularity of Napa and Sonoma, all airports in the region even as far away as San Francisco and Sacramento are accustomed to checking in boxes of wine (a case holds 12 bottles). Airlines will even have the special “Fragile” stickers with a picture of a wine glass.

TIP! Be sure to use a case designed for shipping that will keep all bottles from hitting each other and also from directly hitting the outside of the box.

     READ MORE: Best Wineries to Seek Out in Charlottesville, Virginia

One other note with all of this wine tasting you’ll be doing over a spread-out area is to be sure you have a safe way to visit all the wineries on your list. Pick a designated driver and know that you are tasting and driving safely.

If there is a wine that you taste and like, there is no need to go overboard at the winery. You can always buy a bottle to enjoy back at your accommodations or to take home and enjoy later.

Happy wine tasting!
Lana

Have you visited any of the wineries on this list? What kinds of wine do you most enjoy tasting at a winery? Are there any Napa and Sonoma wineries I should check out on my next visit? Or other wine regions worth visiting in my travels? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Best Wineries to Visit in Napa and Sonoma Valleys in California

Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia

Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia

How many wine regions do you know that were founded as the result of a research paper?

From an unusually academic start, the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia was born. It all started with a 1966 paper by Dr. John Gladstone identifying the region as suitable for wine production (since it was similar to the Bordeaux region of France). Apparently that’s all it took for some enterprising Aussies to start planting grapes and making wine.

The rest, as they say, is history.

Now, 50 years later, although Margaret River produces only around 3% of Australian wine, it is responsible for 20% of Australia’s most premium bottles.

That is a pretty high density of the good stuff, making Margaret River one of the best Australian wine regions you could choose to visit to make the most of a wine trip in Australia. Plus, with surf beaches, rock climbing, and nature nearby, even the New York Times posed this question about Margaret River: “With Beaches, Wine, and Buzz, Is This Australia’s Next Hot Place?”

READ MORE: One of the coolest things in WA – Pemberton Climbing Trees

READ MORE: Excellent Eating around WA’s Southern Forest

Margaret River is strategically located between two capes jutting out from Australia’s western coast, meaning sea breezes from the Indian Ocean keep the grapes in perfect growing conditions. And at approximately a three-hour drive from the city of Perth, it is close enough for a weekend trip.

While I hear most often that “Australia is far,” there are actually many parts of the world with direct flights to Perth, the nearest major city to Margaret River in Western Australia (WA).

Beside other Australian and New Zealand locales, you’ll find direct access to Perth from many major cities in Asia and the Middle East, such as Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi. There are also direct flights from Johannesburg (South Africa), and as of recently, even a direct flight from London!

READ MORE: 12 Things to Expect on Your Visit that are “So Perth”

And there’s no better time to check out this incredible wine region.

The Basics of Australian Wine and Wine Tasting

For my first visit to the region, I had been living in Perth, Australia for almost a year and had a pretty good sense of the local wine varietals. But in case you’re less familiar, here is a bit about the types of wine you’ll see at the wineries:

White Blends

In addition to single grape varietals you likely already know, Australians love their wine blends. The blend you’ll see most commonly is of the sweeter Semillon grape with the more acidic Sauvignon Blanc. You may have tasted these two grapes together already in a Bordeaux white, but in Australia, you’ll basically see two variations:

  • SSB standing for Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, meaning that there is a higher percentage of Semillon in the blend.
  • SBS standing for Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, with a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc

As you might expect, the blend takes on more of the characteristics of the grape that is named first. Try lots of both and decide which you like best! (I prefer SSB.)

Shiraz

First off, spoiler – Shiraz and Syrah are exactly the same grape. But just because you know Syrah does not mean you’ll know Australian Shiraz though, only because of the many different ways it is produced. Even one Australian Shiraz to another can taste quite different, so keep an open mind and taste lots of these wines.

Red Blends

Of course you’ll see plenty of blends with Shiraz, like Cabernet Shiraz (blend with Cabernet Sauvignon) and Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, known as a GSM blend found typically in the Rhone region of France. Interestingly, another popular blend I’ve only seen in Australia – Shiraz Viognier – with the red Shiraz grape blended with white Viognier.

And there are lots of other Cabernet blends beyond Cabernet Shiraz, although you’ll most typically see Cabernet Merlot, which is both fruity and bold.

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Other Things to Know Before You Go

You’ll notice quickly in Australia that Australians (Aussies) have nicknames and abbreviations for just about everything! And wine is no exception. The shortened version you’re most likely to encounter is the Aussie nickname for Chardonnay which is the abbreviation ‘chardy’ (pronounced SHAR-dee).

Don’t bother looking for a winery’s ‘tasting room,’ as you won’t find it. Instead, seek out the ‘cellar door.’

And don’t be dissuaded by the predominance of screw-top bottles over corked wine bottles, as in Australia it is not related to the quality of the wine. Since beginning the switch to screw-top bottles around the year 2000, today around 99% of all Australian wine is bottled that way.

Now let’s get down to it – which wineries you should visit to sample some incredible Margaret River wines!

Best Wineries in Margaret River

With an area so well known for its premium wines, there are plenty of exceptional wineries that are worth a visit. All of those alphabetically listed below are wineries that I’ve visited and enjoyed enough to purchase wines – which for me is a high bar to clear!

Also, wine tasting in Australia is probably more laid back than winery visits you’ve had in other countries, with ‘cellar doors’ that are open typically every day of the week and welcoming anyone who is in the area to stop by.

All smiles exploring Margaret River wine country
All smiles exploring Margaret River wine country

Often tastings are offered for free or for a minimal fee, which will often be waived if you make any purchases during your visit. Private tastings or tours at a winery tend to be extra, and often require advance booking.

TIP! Even if you think you know a grape or a wine, it all tastes different in WA, so keep an open mind and try everything!

Now go and enjoy your winery visits at….

Arimia Winery

Picture-perfect lunch at Arimia Winery
Picture-perfect lunch at Arimia Winery

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre (GSM), Petit Verdot, Rosé, Shiraz Viognier, Verdelho, Zinfandel

Arimia Winery was a last-minute addition to my wine tasting itinerary based on a recommendation from nearby purveyor Gabriel Chocolate. You’ll see a lot of French style blends and grapes, taking advantage of Margaret River’s similarity to some parts of France. There is also a restaurant on-site which makes for a scenic and delicious meal overlooking the vineyard.

This is also possibly the spot where I bought the most wine:

Ashbrook Estate

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Merlot, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, Verdelho

This one of the oldest and also one of the best wineries in the Margaret River region, producing common grapes along with those less often seen in Australia, like Riesling. A third generation winery, Ashbrook celebrated its 40th vintage in 2018. There is great care taken with all the wine produced here, with grapes picked completely by hand, leading to a delicious final product.

Cape Mentelle

Cape Mentelle wine at a US steakhouse
Cape Mentelle wine at a US steakhouse

Reservations: Not needed for the Cellar Door; “bookings essential” for a private tour or tasting (additional fee)

Tasting: AUD$10 tasting fee per person, waived with purchase

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon, Shiraz, Zinfandel

This is one of my all-time favorite wineries from the region, and also one of the easiest to find represented at restaurants and wine stores outside of Australia. Which is not surprising since it holds the distinction as being one of the ‘founding five’ wineries of the region. Especially memorable wines include their SBS blend, the Cabernet Merlot Trinders blend, and the Zinfandel. Plus, the straight Cabernet Sauvignon makes for such perfect, smooth sips, it was my bottle of choice at a recent steakhouse dinner in the US.

Cape Naturaliste Vineyard

Cape Naturaliste Vineyards
Cape Naturaliste Vineyard

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz

Cape Naturaliste is one of the younger vineyards on this list, but one with consistent, quality wines. Even with the excellent quality, its wines are more affordable than some other wineries in the region, leading many of its vintages to sell out every year. Their SSB white blend is one of my favorites. The winery also aims to be in harmony with nature, hand picking grapes and applying bio-dynamic philosophies to preserving the local environment.

Cullen Wines

Reservations: Not needed, except for Private Tour and Tasting or for groups of 7+ people

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot (Diana Madeline), Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Malbec, Malbec Petit Verdot (Red Moon), Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS)

The fourth of the ‘founding five’ Margaret River wineries, Cullen opened the year after Cape Mentelle and has continued to evolve since then. Today it is Australian certified organic and bio-dynamic winery with fruit that is harvested by hand and an estate that is carbon-neutral and naturally powered. The wine is sophisticated and smooth, and comes in at a mix of price points, with some more affordable bottles and a few that are more exclusive – with a price to match.

Flying Fish Cove

Reservations: Tastings by appointment Monday-Friday

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Chardonnay (sparkling), Rosé, Shiraz, Shiraz (sparkling), Shiraz Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB)

One of the few Margaret River wineries that requires reservations, be sure to arrange with them in advance so you can sample their delicious wines. Offering a range of lines (at a range of price points), there are delicious wines to excite your palate, including a few sparkling ones. If you’re not sure which Aussie wine you fancy, Flying Fish Cove will help you figure it all out as you taste across their impressive varietals.

Gralyn Estate

Gralyn Estate
Gralyn Estate

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Fortified/ Late Harvest/ Muscat/ Port style dessert wines, Rosé, Shiraz

Gralyn Estate also dates from the first wave of wineries in the 1970s and today is a boutique winery known for its fine wine production. A specialty here that you don’t see at many other Margaret River wineries is the dessert wine portfolio, which ranges from late harvest wines to sweet fortified and port-style ones that I love. You may not make the splurge to buy a ton of bottles here, but it is definitely worth coming for a tasting.

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Juniper Estate

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot Malbec Cabernet Franc (Aquitaine Rouge), Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Riesling, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS – Aquitaine Blanc), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz, Tempranillo

I was on an organized tour my first day in Margaret River, and after not loving the first winery, the tour guide brought us here and it was exactly the type of winery I was looking for. In addition to the Aussie staples, it offers delicious bottles of Tempranillo, a Spanish grape that grows surprisingly well in Western Australia, and also beautiful whites like Riesling.

But the show-stopper for me is their Aquitane Blanc, the best SBS I have ever tasted. The blend hails from France, but with the Margaret River grapes and expert treatment by this winery, it has a je ne sais quoi that will stop you in your tracks as well.

Leeuwin Estate

Reservations: Not needed for tastings; recommended for tours, food flights, and other experiences

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir Chardonnay Brut (sparkling), Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Shiraz

Part of the first wave of wineries to open in the region, Leeuwin Estate is a mainstay known for its consistent quality wines. Still family owned today, Napa Valley renowned winemaker Robert Mondavi actually helped the family transform the land from a cattle farm into a world-class winery. The estate also has a restaurant on-site and is big enough that it regularly hosts special events. And its “Art Series” of wine isn’t just lip service – there is also an art gallery at the winery.

Stella Bella Wines

Stella Bella
Stella Bella

Reservations: Not needed for individuals; groups are strictly by appointment only

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Moscato, Pinot Gris, Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz, Shiraz Cabernet

I found this to be one of the most laid back and fun wineries for a visit, but still with incredibly high-quality wine. I like so many of the wines I can’t even pick a favorite – for me it is between their various red wines and red blends and the more delicate of their white wines, like Chardonnay and the SSB. Although the winery has only been around since the 1990s, it has been racking up awards and is renowned across Australia for the incredible wine it produces.

Vasse Felix

Sign at Vasse Felix
Sign at Vasse Felix

Reservations: Not needed for tastings; recommended for tours, food flights, and other experiences

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Blanc de Blancs (sparkling), Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Shiraz

I keep talking about the ‘founding five’ wineries of Margaret River and this is THE ONE, the very first winery in the region. Like Leeuwin, there is also a restaurant and art gallery on site, and events that are hosted there. But of course the main attraction is the wine. It is spectacular, and I was pleasantly surprised to find some great value wines along with the pricier lines, with their red offerings as my favorites.

Voyager Estate

Voyager Estate Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia DSC_0288

Reservations: Not needed for tastings; recommended for tours, food flights, and other experiences

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, Chenin Blanc (sparkling), Rosé, Sauvignon Blanc, Sauvignon Blanc Semillon (SBS), Semillon Sauvignon Blanc (SSB), Shiraz

Voyager didn’t come onto the Margaret River wine scene until the late 1970s, but it has become one of the most established and recognizable wineries since then. Its Chenin Blanc is my favorite from the region and its other whites are some of my favorites as well.

Lunch at Voyager Estate
Lunch at Voyager Estate

The on-site restaurant made for an excellent lunch when I visited, with scrumptious food beautifully displayed in a lovely space – and plenty of delicious wine to go with your meal.

Woodlands Wines

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Fees may apply

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Franc Merlot, Cabernet Merlot Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Pinot Noir

Woodlands Wines became established in the Margaret River region in the early 1970s, right after the ‘founding five’ wineries. As you can see from the list above, it specializes in red wines and blends, using some of the less commonly found grapes in the region like Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Pinot Noir, making some fabulous wines.

While the reds are great and numerous, there is one white wine that is absolutely outstanding and memorable – the ‘Chloe’ Chardonnay. It is bright golden in color and an explosion of flavor that wows you and then lingers as it shifts to some of the more subtle notes of the wine. And since it is such a small production, your best bet to taste this outstanding wine is at the Woodlands Cellar Door. Followed by buying some to take home, of course!

Tips for Wine Tasting in Margaret River

There is certainly no shortage of incredible wineries in Margaret River. To make the most of your wine tasting trip, here are a few additional tips to keep in mind:

Australian ‘drink driving’ rules are strict.

Unlike other countries where you need to be suspected of a violation before you can be subject to a sobriety test, it is routine all over Australia to set up a road-block and take a breathalyzer (or ‘breathalyser’) test of every single driver on the road. WA is so serious about breathalyzers that once I even had to take one before going on the Tunnels Tour at the Fremantle Prison in Perth.

If you do decide to drive yourself, be responsible and exercise caution. You’ll see signs around a lot of the wineries asking, “Who is the skipper?” about a designated driver.

For those who don't speak Australian, skipper = designated driver
For those who don’t speak Australian, skipper = designated driver

So take a tour!

There are several reputable and well-regarded tour operators in Margaret River, who will both drive you around to wineries and recommend excellent spots based on what you like. Many tours book up quickly (especially on weekends) so make your arrangements in advance.

I went on an excellent tour with Top Drop Tours, where the driver/guide did an excellent job tailoring that day’s itinerary to my wine preferences.

Find out more about Top Drop Tours HERE

Explore other Margaret River wine tour options HERE

Don’t just taste wine.

This is a lesson I first learned wine tasting in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys of California. Even besides meals, it is important to mix up mix all that wine tasting with getting food in your stomach. Two of the best places to do that in Margaret River:

  • Gabriel Chocolate is an award-winning chocolatier that sources cacao beans from around the world and produces a wide range of chocolates at their Margaret River factory. Get all your questions answered by the helpful staff and taste differently sourced chocolate from around the world side-by-side to get a great sense of each.
  • Olio Bello has been harvesting olives in the region since the 1990s and they are serious about the product they produce. Over a dozen of varieties of olives are grown, hand-picked, and cold-pressed, all right on their massive property. At their tasting room you can sample various olive oils and preserves.

TIP! If you come during their olive pressing season from April – June, you can watch the olive milling process and taste the new oil as soon as it’s made.

Check out all there is to do in the region!

Other food and activity purveyors are best located on the Margaret River regional map, helpfully marked with different icons based on whether it is a winery, art gallery, activity, and also specifying whether there is a restaurant attached for each.

There are plenty of outdoor adventures to take advantage of as well, from hiking to world-class surfing to rock climbing.

Me rock climbing right on the Indian Ocean coast in Margaret River
Me rock climbing right on the Indian Ocean coast in Margaret River

Find the most updated regional map HERE.

TIP! You’ll also be able to pick up hard copies of the map at various wineries and Margaret River attractions.

Including Australian truffle country.

The other thing you may not know about this part of Western Australia is that nearby you’ll find the most truffles of any other spot in the southern hemisphere! While you may associate truffles more typically with Italy (or France), there are actually truffles in several parts of Australia, although you’ll find the vast majority in one part of WA.

Truffle season lasts from late May until September, when you’ll have access to freshly harvested truffles to enjoy, although you can enjoy local truffle products all year long. And sometime in late June or early July – the exact timing varies from year to year – you’ll be able to enjoy the annual Truffle Kerfuffle, the local truffle festival located about a 90-minute drive from Margaret River.

And definitely stay over.

As you can see from the massive list of top wineries (which doesn’t include every spot I visited, just the best ones), I spent several days exploring the Margaret River region – and so should you! Most visitors stay either close to nature or in town. I liked staying in the town of Margaret River, with lots of restaurants in walking distance to not have to worry about driving after a day of wine tasting.

I had an exceptional few nights at the Rosewood Guesthouse, which went above and beyond to provide little touches throughout my stay. The elaborate breakfast is a great start to a day of wine tasting or outdoor activity, and there are complimentary refreshments available all day long, from tea and biscuits to complimentary port and sherry for a nightcap. The Rosewood Guesthouse will also coordinate any number of snacks, in-house massages, or tours for you, including the option of a private tour in the on-site, cream-colored 1956 Rolls Royce:

Sadly, when I visited, the Rolls Royce was all booked out for the weekend. Quite a nice way to tour the vineyards, if you can get it...
Sadly, when I visited, the Rolls Royce was all booked out for the weekend, but I still got to admire it!

This was not a sponsored accommodation of any kind, I just had a really fabulous stay at the Rosewood Guesthouse!

Check out Rosewood Guesthouse pricing and availability HERE

Explore other Margaret River accommodation options HERE

Staying somewhere attentive and cozy was definitely a great way to end each day in Margaret River.

And even beyond wine country, the region has so much to offer that it is a great destination for a weekend (or longer!) escape.

Happy travels!
Lana

How do you decide which wine country you’d like to visit next?Have you been to Margaret River? Any other wineries there that you love?

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Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia

12 Things To Expect on Your Visit That Are “So Perth”

12 Things To Expect on Your Visit That Are “So Perth”

I had (almost) forgotten so many things that make Perth a wonderful and unique city. I lived there for just over a year, and then went for my first return trip just a few months ago. I pride myself on having an excellent memory, so it really was quite a shock to the system to realize how much of what I knew about Perth that had migrated to the outer edges of my recollections and only returned to my consciousness in force when I was experiencing the city in person again.

The thing about moving away from a city where you’ve lived is that while you take many memories with you, there are so many more memories that are so inextricably tied to a sense of place that you only recall them walking the same streets, hearing the noises of the neighborhood, and smelling the aromas you’ve left behind. It’s the reason we re-visit places from our past, and why we’re drawn in some cases to travel to the same place over and over again.

What you need to know about Perth is that while it may be considered by many to be the most isolated city in the world, it’s an incredible city for living. Winters are mild, people are friendly, and even the public toilets are nice. What’s not to love?

Even many Australians from east coast cities like Melbourne and Sydney have never ventured to Perth (for those of you unfamiliar with the size of Australia, it’s about the size of the continental US – taking 5 hours flying to traverse east to west), so Perth can be a bit of a mystery, even to the Aussies. Every city has its own flavor, and Perth is no different, with all its quirks.

Here are some things that stood out in my rush of memories on my recent visit, and that you should also expect when you go. Things that are “so Perth.”

#1 | Friendly People

Australians in general are a pretty friendly bunch, and people in Perth really exemplify this. You’ll notice it when you’re getting coffee or browsing in a shop, or doing any activity really. On my recent trip I went to an outdoor kickboxing class with a friend, and the friendliness of the *other* people taking the class really blew me away. Although I was not a regular and they did not know me, every time we were running laps between intervals, the Aussies were shouting “good on you” and other words of encouragement. A stark contrast to other places I’ve lived for sure.

sun CIMG1088

#2 | Sunny Days

When most people picture Australia, it’s probably a sunny image, but Perth takes things to a whole new level. It’s the sunniest capital city in the world, averaging 8 hours of sunshine daily, so any visit is likely to include mostly sun-filled days. For me this also means that I usually have some sort of hat or visor with me at all times, because the Australian sunshine is H-O-T. And beware that the hole in the ozone layer above Australia is no joke. I would sometimes get a bit of color or even sunburn on my 10-minute walk to the grocery store. But if you’re anything like me, bright sunshine puts you in a good mood, so every day feels like a pleasant vacation.

coffee 20161201_073820

#3 | Great Coffee

Anyone who’s ever been to Australia knows that there are excellent espresso-drinks nearly everywhere – in fact, it was when I was living in Perth that I became a full-fledged coffee snob. Perth is pretty laid-back overall, but they sure do take their coffee seriously, from the beans to the roast to the barista artwork. And when you’re arriving in Perth from outside Australia like I was on my recent visit, the difference is striking. Enjoy several discerning cups of coffee, and appreciate it while you can.

beaches 20161127_143247

#4 | Beaches

Like most major settlements across Australia, Perth is basically on the coast. The Central Business District, or CBD, is a bit inland along the Swan River, but most of metropolitan Perth’s coast is along the Indian Ocean. There are several great surfing beaches easily accessible by public transportation, areas like Mettam’s Pool with world-class snorkeling right off the beach, extended sections of coast that are basically a giant playground like Hillary’s Boat Harbour, and plenty of bars and restaurants up and down the coastline. Beaches are so loved by locals I even had co-workers on adjusted work schedules so they could head to the beach before or after work EVERY DAY.

#5 | Wind

People in Perth always told me that it was the 1st sunniest capital city in the world and the 3rd windiest. I’m not sure how accurate the windiest claim is, but the takeaway is that Perth can be quite shockingly windy. Somehow the grid of the CBD lines up with the typical wind currents, so you’ll experience some pretty strong wind gusts in the streets of downtown. It also tends to get more windy as the day goes on, so people in the know head to the beaches in the morning hours, before the windiest part of the day sets in.

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#6 | Kangaroos

You don’t need to go to a wildlife park or zoo to get a glimpse of a kangaroo – there are plenty of wild kangaroos hanging out in and around Perth. Not far (and walkable!) from the CBD is Heirisson Island, with an area open to the public with wild kangaroos, in full view of the downtown skyscrapers. There are also quite a few wild kangaroos that hang out and play in Yanchep National Park, north of the city. When I was at Yanchep there were some kangaroos fighting – remember that kangaroos are powerful animals and don’t get too close in the wild, they have a fierce kick when balanced on their tail! Still very cool that kangaroos are just hanging around in many places throughout the city, especially at dusk.

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#7 | Rainbows

For a place as sunny as Perth, rainbows are not something you would expect with great frequency. But there is just something about the weather patterns (and possibly how quickly the sun reappears after rainfall?) that makes huge arcs of color a common sight. Living there, I remember being very excited the first time I saw a rainbow, and immediately snapped a picture. A few days later, I felt like the luckiest rainbow-spotter ever, and took another photo. Not long after, I realized how often rainbows would appear, although that didn’t make them any less beautiful. I probably took more rainbow pictures in my one year living there than everywhere else I’ve ever visited combined!

#8 | Crazy Costs

Australia is a giant island, so many things have to be brought in from overseas, and are priced accordingly. Perth is so isolated – even from the rest of Australia – that prices can even be a bit higher than in other parts of Oz. The good news is that while the prices look exorbitant, for many nationalities coming from abroad, the currency exchange rate is way more favorable now than before. For example, when I lived there 5 years ago, the Australian dollar and US dollar were basically at parity, US$1 = AUD$1. Now an Australian dollar only costs about 75 US cents. My strategy on my last trip was to think about paying in US dollars or Euro, and then I had a very pleasant surprise when I saw the actual charges on my credit card bill =)

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#9 | Wine Country

Did you know that Western Australia produces a disproportionally large percentage of Australia’s premium wines? While the most famous region is Margaret River, about a 3-hour drive south of Perth, don’t worry if you don’t have enough time to make that trek. Because there is also a wonderful wine region that is right off of the Perth metro, called Swan Valley, not far from the city center. It’s an easy drive to get there from Perth by car or metro, you can rent bikes and ride around the 32-kilometer loop that links many of the area wineries, or sign up for one of the many food and wine tours of the area. It’s the oldest wine region in Western Australia, and the area now boasts breweries, distilleries, and many excellent purveyors of culinary products – from coffee to honey to lavender.

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia

#10 | Birds of Every Feather

There are lots of birds all over Perth, but those you’re likely to encounter are the swans, the ravens, and the magpies.

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To See: Perth was settled around the Swan River, and you can guess how the river got its name! Especially along the bike and walking paths along the river’s edge in the CBD, you’ll come across both white and black swans, just a short stroll from the heart of the city. While they are beautiful, keep your distance as swans are not the nicest of animals.

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To Hear: You’ll hear the ravens before you see them, and as you listen to their repetitive, whiny caw, you’ll wonder how a bird could possibly make such an unpleasant noise. The birds tend to be black and either up in a tree or hopping around along the ground, as long as no people have approached too closely. I had nearly forgotten all about their existence until the first time I heard their distinctive call during my recent trip. There is a lot of green space throughout the city of Perth, so there are plenty of trees where the birds like to nest, and you’ll hear them if you’re walking anywhere in the vicinity.

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To Avoid:

Magpies, innocuous-looking black and white birds, can pose quite a danger when defending their urban nesting areas. You’ll need to be cautious during their ‘swooping season’ in September and October, when they can actually cause real damage to humans, especially cyclists. If you’ll be around Perth then, familiarize yourself with tips on staying safe. There is a good overview of what to do and not to do from Australia’s LifeHacker site here.

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#11 | Bustling Downtown

Lots of cities have a bustling downtown, but the city of Perth makes it even easier to navigate – for free! There is actually a Free Tansit Zone (FTZ) that encompasses the major swath of downtown. All of the bus lines that cross through the CBD are free so long as you board and leave within the boundaries of the FTZ. There are also several CAT lines (red, blue, yellow, & green) for ‘Central Area Transit’ that loop through the downtown area – and even a bit beyond – that are completely free to ride. This means that during lunchtime on a weekday, local workers don’t typically restrict themselves to the immediate vicinity of their office building, but can be seen riding the buses to hit up the best restaurants for a delicious lunch, all within the time constraints of their lunch break – and for free.

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#12 | Fireworks

When I lived in Perth, the first time I was sitting on the couch on a Tuesday evening and heard the explosive noise, I was alarmed and had to take a moment to think. My New Yorker sensibilities suggested that it might be a gunshot or explosion, but then I realized that not only is Australia (and Perth in particular) incredibly safe, but almost nobody owns a gun due to its strict laws. My next thought – could it be fireworks? I rushed out to the balcony to take a look and was delighted to discover a colorful display taking place over the Swan River. Little did I know when choosing an apartment that its view would offer front-row seating for the ridiculously frequent fireworks displays. Fireworks displays happen so often in Perth there’s even a blog dedicated to just that – Why are there fireworks in Perth tonight? So yes, when you visit, if you’re downtown in the early evening, you’ll probably see fireworks. Look up and enjoy the show!

As you can tell, I loved Perth and found it such an interesting place to be able to live. And recently, to come back as a visitor. While Australia if far from many places, it’s quite close to Asia, and a great place to pop into when you’re nearby or set as a destination for a longer trip.

Anything I missed about Perth? Any things that are also “so typical” about where you live? Share in the Comments below!

12 Things to Expect on Your Visit to Perth in Western Australia

Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia: The Monticello Wine Trail

Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia: The Monticello Wine Trail

If I asked you to name US wine regions, what would be the first ones that come to mind?

Probably Napa and Sonoma valleys, in northern California. Possibly some other California regions that are up-and-coming for wine making, perhaps Oregon for its Pinot Noir production, Hill Country in Texas, or maybe even the Finger Lakes region of NY.

Far less likely to cross your mind? The wine region of Charlottesville, Virginia. Even though I think that some of the best wines on the east coast of the US are from there, and it’s a relatively easy weekend trip from Washington, DC, Baltimore, and other surrounding cities. Plus, when Food & Wine magazine calls Charlottesville the most underrated wine region in the US, it’s time to take notice!

Honestly, Charlottesville is a more typical destination as a university town and for its nearby presidential estates. The University of Virginia – UVA – is located there, as well as the former home of Thomas Jefferson (the Monticello Estate) and James Monroe’s Highland.

The real draw for me, although I’ve visited the other sights in town, is the wine region in the area

known as the Monticello Wine Trail. The term “trail” is a bit misleading because there are 30 wineries spread all across the region, however there are a lot of similarities in the grapes they grow and the style of wine they produce.

On my previous wine weekend trip to Charlottesville, Virginia in 2007, I had no idea it would be a full decade before I returned. Fast forward ten years, and the wines are even more exciting, with new grape varietals to the region producing some very interesting – and eminently drinkable – bottles of wine.

Wine is definitely more expensive stateside than in a lot of parts of Europe where I’ve done more of my wine tasting lately, like the Piedmont or Valpolicella and Soave regions of Italy. But I’d much rather spend $10-25 a bottle at an American winery where I’ve tasted and know I like the wine than take my chances blindly purchasing a bottle in a wine shop for a similar price.

For this visit, I pulled information from a lot of sources (and my past experience!) to determine which wineries I should visit. And I enjoyed some really great wine along the way.

Here is the run down of my favorite spots:

Best Wineries to Visit

DelFosse Vineyards & Winery

DelFosse Vineyards Tasting Room Best Charlottesville VA Wineries 20170610_121445 (2)

Reservations: Not needed for a Classic Tasting, Private Tastings require advance reservation

Tasting: $10 for the Classic Tasting, $15 per person for a Private Tasting

Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng dessert wine

Both times I visited, I felt a bit of apprehension when the road turns into a gravel path for the last few minutes of the approach. The bit of extra driving is more than rewarded though, with a secluded spot and a great-value tasting of 10 wines made in the French style. My favorites included the Viognier and both Cabernets, and the delicious wine is enhanced by the relaxed atmosphere and knowledgeable staff. The grounds include picnic spots, and you’re welcome to bring outside food to enjoy.

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King Family Vineyards

King Family Vineyards Tasting Room Best Charlottesville VA Wineries DSC_0831

Reservations: Not needed for a Classic Tasting, Private Tastings require advance reservation, Tours are first-come, first-served at 1pm & 3pm on the weekend

Tasting: $10 for the Classic Tasting, $15 per person for a Private Tasting (with a purchase minimum)

Varietals: Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng dessert wine

This location boasted a polo field before the idea for a winery was born. Polo matches continue to this day, but King Family Vineyards has also become known for its quality wine production. The tasting area is inviting, and staff are welcoming and really know both the history of the property and a ton about the wine. I really loved the rosé here – playfully named after the nearby town of Crozet – as well as their white blend.

Stinson Vineyards

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Reservations: Not needed for a Regular Tasting, advance reservation required for groups of 7 or more

Tasting: $10 for the Regular Tasting, $12 per person for groups

Varietals: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Meritage blend, Tannat, Petit Manseng dessert wine, Port-style dessert wine

The tasting room is located inside a quaint former garage, and both feels a bit industrial and also connected to nature with the view of the surrounding countryside. Tastings are relaxed with delicious wine options. I especially loved their white wines, including the Petit Manseng dessert wine which was refreshing without being too sweet. There is also a farm store on site, and many food options to sit and stay awhile and enjoy the view.

Just To Eat

Veritas Vineyard & Winery

It’s possible that the wines beyond what was available for tasting were fabulous, but the ones I tasted were not memorable or stood out as particularly good. Come here for the food and view instead!

Veritas Vineyards Best Charlottesville VA Wineries 20170610_134154

This winery had my least-favorite sips, but it still made my list as a great spot to eat or hang out for the afternoon. There is ample seating on the grounds, and plenty of food options that you can order on site or you can bring your own picnic lunch. I enjoyed a wonderful cheese plate, made even better since the bread was served warm.

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The tasting room is beautiful, but the tasting itself was rushed and very commercialized. Basically you were herded into a line upon arrival, and then were clumped into random groups to squeeze in as many people as possible at a time up at the tasting counter. And the staff couldn’t even answer basic questions about the wine. The wines themselves were not particularly notable, especially compared to some of the other wonderful sips I enjoyed at other nearby spots.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Have a plan for getting between wineries. Some of these wineries are in close proximity, and others will involve a 20-30 minute drive in between. If you’re driving, know who in your group will be the designated driver. There are also several organized tours available in the area if you prefer to be chauffeured between places.

Share a wine tasting. If you’re like me, and are going in with the mindset of trying different wines and finding ones you like to buy for later, there’s no need to go crazy on the wine tasting. I usually find that two people can easily split a single tasting. Also, most wine tastings are for a fee, unlike other wine regions that offer complimentary tastings or waive the tasting fee if you purchase wine. Which makes sharing an economical option, too. It’s also good to share a tasting if you have a designated driver that will be doing some tasting of wines.

Have a plan for getting wine home. I’ve always driven on trips to Charlottesville, and the trunk of a car is a handy place for transporting wine. Pretty much all the wineries also have shipping options within the US if you’re coming from outside the area. Definitely something to think about before you go!

If you want a tour or private tasting, reserve in advance. Not only are there lots of families from the region who take advantage of the vast picnic areas at most wineries, but there are also lots of groups of all kinds, from bachelorette parties to alumni groups. So if you are planning to take a tour or would like a private tasting, reserve this with the winery in advance so you’re not disappointed.

Have you visited wineries in Charlottesville? What were your favorite places? Let me know if there are any great wineries I missed!

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Best Charlottesville VA Wineries to Visit for a Wine Tasting

The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

Valpolicella and Soave are two of my favorite Italian wine regions, and conveniently both are a short distance outside the inviting Italian town of Verona, not far from Venice. The Valpolicella region to the north of Verona specializes in various red wines with a unique production method, while the Soave region to the east produces some lovely white wines. Most consider the Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany to be the two areas with the best producers, especially for Italian reds. While both of those regions are relatively close to Milan, it was actually the Valpolicella region where I ended up most often during my three years living in Italy, usually with visitors.

The reds of Valpolicella are in a slightly different style than Super Tuscans or a Piemontese Barolo, but can be more fruity and jammy, and in general more approachable. And I know several wine lovers whose favorite Italian reds come from this area, and these are certainly some of my favorites as well. Since the wine regions around Verona are less frequented by tourists than some of the other areas, it is easier to pop into a cantina without a reservation and taste wine. And you can find delicious wines at a great value, I’d definitely recommend planning to purchase wine as you taste, and having a plan for transporting the bottles back home.

Welcome to Valpolicella wine region Italy (2)

In terms of the Valpolicella region, you’ll typically see 4 main types of red wine as well as a dessert wine called Recioto. All of these are made with different combinations and processing methods of the same main grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella (and sometimes Corvinone). The first, most basic wine is called Valpolicella Classico, the classic version that is not usually aged at all. The Valpolicella Superiore, or superior version, does undergo some aging, and is intended to be a more refined version of Valpolicella.

The fourth wine (yes, I skipped #3 on purpose) called Amarone is where the typical drying process of the Valpolicella region comes into play. When the grapes are harvested in the fall, usually around September or October, instead of being pressed right away, they are spread out and left to dry for several months, which intensifies the flavor of the grapes. Then sometime around January the grapes will actually be pressed and begin the multi-year aging process. Ripasso then is partway between a Valpolicella Superiore and an Amarone, since it involves the leftover pressed grapes from Amarone being mixed with Valpolicella Classico wine. The dessert wine Recioto is more similar to the straight Amarone, with residual sugars for sweetness (and this can vary from quite sweet to more balanced depending on the producer).

You might think that because of the somewhat linear progression of red wine production in Valpolicella, that everyone would like Amarone the best, then Ripasso, and so on. But that’s actually not how things shake out at all! Even without taking external factors like winery and the harvest year into play, some wine lovers prefer Ripasso while others prefer Amarone, depending on their personal tastes. Then when you consider the year of production and each winemaker’s approach, your favorite at a particular winery might be the Valpolicella Classico or Superiore. It all depends.

Which is why I advocate for doing a wine tasting when you visit, even if you’ve been before, since you may prefer different wines than last time (even at the same winery). Usually with each visit I was trying the wines from a different production year, and I’ve made repeat visits to most of the wineries on this list. So I’ve tasted different versions of the same wine over the years depending on what has recently been bottled and is available. Even at the same producer, my tastes as to which wines are my favorite have typically changed with each season. So taste before you buy, every time you go.

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That same advice holds true for the Soave region on the other side of Verona: taste during each visit, as the wine changes quite a bit from year to year, even at the same producer. Soave itself is a white wine made principally from the Garganega grape, although other white grapes are sometimes included in small amounts. Like with Valpolicella reds, there are different levels of Soave – including a Superiore – depending on whether it is aged and the details of the blend.

Many Soave wineries also have vineyards in the area growing red grapes as well, so even if you go to taste white wines, you’ll be able to try their various Valpolicella reds as well. You don’t see much Soave wine in Valpolicella, although some of those wineries will produce other types of white wine. And a recent trend in the Valpolicella region is to use the same Amarone process of drying the grapes for months, but with different types of red grapes than you’d typically see, resulting in some of my favorite sips.

I’ve had some pretty fabulous wine tastings in the Valpolicella and Soave regions over my many visits. Here are my favorite places to go, listed alphabetically by region:

Valpolicella

Accordini Igino

 

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Reservations: Not needed Mon-Fri, Required on Saturday

Tasting: Free, can also reserve a paid tasting paired with local food products

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

The staff is friendly and welcoming at this nearly 200-year old winery, with a light and inviting tasting room. The red wines typical of the region are solid, and they produce a few other white and red wines. I especially like their Recioto dessert wine, which isn’t sickly sweet but actually quite well-balanced.

Manara

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Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Bianco del Veneto, Rosso del Veneto, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

If you’re a non-Italian speaker, be sure to contact the winery in advance, as the one person in the tasting room does not always speak English. Their Valpolicella range is quite good, as is their Bianco del Veneto, or white wine from the region. But my absolute favorite, and the wine I can’t get enough of is their Rosso del Veneto, a jammy red produced from non-typical grapes in the Valpolicella style of drying the grapes first to intensify the flavors. Even if it’s not offered, be sure to ask to taste this gem, the Guido Manara!

Scriani

Scriani winery Fumane Valpolicella Italy (2)

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

This family-run winery is welcoming, and has a beautiful tasting room and cellar where you’ll taste the wines. I think I’ve visited at least three or four times, and I like their wines better each time I go. Their straight Corvina is quite good, along with the full line of Valpolicella wines.

Speri

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Reservations: Not needed, although there is the option to book in advance to visit the cellar

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Sant’Urbano, Amarone, Recioto

Another family-run place, there are usually several people on hand to provide a tasting, and I’ve never had to wait more than a few minutes for an English-speaking member of the family to guide me and my visitors. The wines are excellent, and I especially like their Sant’Urbano, which is partway between a Ripasso and an Amarone in taste. They have an excellent annual olive oil production for the family, with excess bottles on sale at the winery, so take advantage if they’re still available when you go.

Soave

Cantina di Soave

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Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting of 5 wines, for a modest fee

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

Founded in the late 1800s, this cantina, or winery, is actually a collective of grape producers from the area, with all grapes having to meet minimum quality requirements to be used in their production. You’ll only taste a handful of wines at the end of the tour, but they are delicious, and the winery offers a wider range of wines for purchase in their shop. And the winery itself is quite beautiful.

Monte Tondo

Reservations: Not needed, although it does get crowded sometimes; must reserve for tour

Tasting: Free, fee for the tour + tasting

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

The experience visiting Monte Tondo without a reservation has been varied for me, depending on the number of other guests. If it’s not crowded, you’ll get very attentive pours and descriptions, and it can be more rushed if you’re there during a busy period or when there is a group also visiting. It’s still a good option to drop in and sample a variety of Soave whites, although there is the possibility of guaranteeing dedicated attention by reserving a formal tour and tasting with cheese and charcuterie pairing for a fee.

TIP! Other than the dates of Cantine Aperte in May and September, most wineries are closed on Sundays.

If you’ve never tried a Valpolicella red wine or a Soave white, buy a bottle (or several) to try the next time you’re at the store. And if you’re planning a trip to Italy or happen to live nearby, the wine regions around Verona are fabulous spots to go wine tasting, even if you haven’t planned anything in advance.

Happy tasting!

Lana

Any questions you still have about wine tasting in Valpolicella and Soave? Other favorite wineries you think belong on this list? Hit me up with any questions or intel you have about the region and its wines in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Wineries to Visit in the Valpolicella and Soave Regions of Italy

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

“If the Romans made wine here 2,000 years ago, why can’t we today?”

These wise words from one of the more recent Israeli winemakers of the Judean Desert south of Jerusalem embody the explosion of new wineries in Israel over the last decade or so, with the most up-and-coming regions being located in Israel’s desert areas in the south of the country.

Wine has been produced in Israel for millenia – dating from biblical times and later during the Roman Empire – but modern Israeli wine-making has happened on a much shorter timescale, from the 1880s on. And it is the last decade or two in particular that has seen an explosion of new boutique wineries across Israel producing excellent bottles of wine. The recent expansion of wineries is not limited to just the number of wine producers, but also includes wineries popping up in new geographic areas of the country, bringing even more variety to what types of wines today constitute ‘Israeli wine.’ This also means that wherever you’re travelling in the country, there is likely a winery nearby that you can pop into for a visit and a tasting.

Traditionally the green, fertile areas of the Galilee and Golan Heights and the coastal areas in the north of the country have been the hub for wine production, and you’ll still find Israel’s oldest and largest wineries there. Some of the most interesting wines being produced however come from the newer wine-producing regions in the more arid regions to the south, whose varied terroir (soil) and climate lead to very different flavors and notes in the final product. Of course grapes can always taste quite different depending on where they’re grown, but Israel’s varied terrain over relatively small country makes it an especially interesting contrast as you taste your way through its wineries as you travel across the country.

In general, the red grapes grown throughout Israel today tend to be similar to those found in France, from the most common Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah and even some of the lesser-known red grape varietals like Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In terms of whites, you’ll see a lot of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, along with some German white wines like Gewurztraminer and Riesling.

I’ve personally visited most of the wineries on this list, however there are a few additional wineries producing excellent bottles right now that I’ve also included as options for a winery visit in the relevant regions below:

Wineries of Note

Coastal Areas

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Carmel Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

Famous French winemaker Baron de Rothschild (of Chateau Lafitte renown) founded this winery in the late 1800s, kicking off the modern era of Israeli winemaking. Carmel is actually the largest winery in Israel, and has such interesting history it is also well worth it to come for the tour. If you get a chance, check out the original log books of expenses, and you’ll notice several incidences of the word bakshish (the Arabic word for bribe) listed in several different spellings – a recurring expense when the winery was first founded 😉 It is quite inexpensive for the basic tour, so you’ll definitely get your money’s worth here and also enjoy the several wines available for tasting whichever tour you choose.

Tulip Winery

Reservations: Not needed (except for groups)

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewurtztraminer, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Although I haven’t been personally, the wines from Tulip are so acclaimed I am compelled to include it on this list. Their wines are routinely on lists of top wines from Israel, and their visitor’s center garners high praise. Also, this family winery has a social conscience, employing many people with special needs from the surrounding community.

Golan Heights

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Golan Heights Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

The Golan Heights Winery offers what I would characterize as the most touristy experience of the wineries on this list, with tour groups criss-crossing each other throughout the estate. Due to the several acclaimed labels produced by this winery, and their extensive operations, it’s definitely one of the wineries where it is worth the advance planning necessary for a visit. There are several levels of tours available in multiple languages beyond Hebrew and English. The different levels of tours vary in length, price, food offered, and which wines are available for tasting.

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Pelter Winery

Reservations: Not needed except for groups

Tasting: Free, there is a per person fee for groups, which includes tour and wine tasting

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Have a phone or GPS handy, as this winery was a bit hard to find. Once you arrive, you’ll be rewarded by a tasting of excellent whites and interesting reds. While Pelter is a known brand you’ll find in many wine shops and on restaurant menus, you’ll be able to buy bottles for a much more reasonable price in person and have a great tasting experience. And while it may be pricier wine than the bottles you’ll find at other wineries, the quality makes it all worth it.

Judean Desert/Center

Domaine du Castel

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot

This winery involves a bit more effort to visit on your own, although it is a stop on a lot of organized wine tours. The wines include a chardonnay, rosé, and some red blends, many of which have received international recognition for their quality. Like several other wineries on this list, it is a family-managed winery, which you’ll feel on your visit. Do note that this is the priciest of the wine tastings, which includes a winery tour and cheese plate.

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Flam Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting (with add-on option of cheese & bread), for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

While I’ve enjoyed a bottle of wine from Flam at a restaurant in Tel Aviv, I have not visited the winery personally. It is the second priciest winery tasting option on this list (with some of the priciest bottles of wine), however the winery has received so much attention lately I would be remiss to not include it. Definitely a stop for the serious oenophile.

Tzora Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

Tzora is unique to this list for being a boutique winery in a desert region that has actually been around for over two decades, producing wine since the early 1990s. One of the pioneering wineries of the Judean Hills, the team at Tzora has assembled a lot of expertise that shines through in the final product, always topping lists of the best Israeli wines.

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Yatir Winery

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Viognier

Another one of my absolute favorite wineries, Yatir is one of Israel’s current outstanding producers. Like Pelter (see above), it is widely available in wine shops around Israel, although at a markup from what you can pay for the excellent quality in-person at the winery. A top winery for a visit, producing some truly excellent bottles worth taking home.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

There are a few additional things you may want to keep in mind when planning your wine tasting tour of Israel – or at least a tour of Israel with some wine tasting along the way =)

TIP! If you’ve rented a car, you’ll know you’re in the vicinity of a winery by the brown sign for sights of interest with grapes on it. The best part of taking a road trip is the spontaneity to go somewhere unexpected at a moment’s notice. If the mood strikes you, take advantage!

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TIP! Most Israelis speak English well, and this is especially true at the wineries hosting visitors, so don’t worry about being able to understand your tour or tasting. Some of the larger wineries will also offer tours in additional languages.

TIP! A lot of wineries are closed on Saturday for the Jewish Sabbath, and many have limited hours on Friday as the Sabbath begins at sundown (so timing varies throughout the year). Plan your visits accordingly.

TIP! Wineries (and the country as a whole) will also close for other Jewish holidays that may not be on your radar, so definitely consult a Jewish calendar before planning your trip and your winery visits.

TIP! Even for the wineries that don’t require advance reservations, it is good to have a working phone handy to give them a heads up you’ll be coming or to get help with directions if you’re lost on the way.

TIP! Phone numbers in Israel begin with a zero followed by another number indicating the region, and cell phones all begin with 05. If you’re calling from an Israeli phone, include the zero. For calls from other places, when you add the +972 in front for the country code, leave off the zero from the number.

Israeli wine tasting for me ranks up there with some of the stellar tastings I’ve done in wine regions all over the world, from the US to Australia to France to Italy. And the environment is so different from wine regions you may be used to that even some of the grapes you think you know well are likely to surprise you.

If you’re not sure if you’ll have time to do a wine tasting at a winery, check out the ‘Wine’ section of my Foodie Bucket List for Israel for the best spot where you can do a number of tastings at wine bar in Tel Aviv.

Have you ever had Israeli wine? Any favorite Israeli wineries that didn’t make my list? Share any additional intel and comments below!

And if you like this post, ‘Pin It’ for later!

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

How this Wine Lover Got Into Tea Tasting: 11 Ways Tea is like Wine

How this Wine Lover Got Into Tea Tasting: 11 Ways Tea is like Wine

With how much I enjoy wine, you might ask how I came to become such a tea aficionado. The surprising but true answer: it all started in Milan, Italy.

Shortly after moving to Milan, I was immersed in language classes and looking for ways to practice and speak with Italians, so joined a language exchange. And it just so happened that one of the other members I befriended is affectionately known as “The Tea Lady” and hosts tea tastings at her home.

Once I attended my first tea tasting, I was hooked:

  • There were so many varieties of tea!
  • It could taste so different depending on the brewing method!
  • Even within a single, small category like Japanese green teas, there was such variety!

This excitement and continuing discovery is one of the reasons I got inspired tasting different wines, and my tea journey has gone through similar phases. Along the way, I realized how similar tea tasting and wine tasting can be:

Many Varieties

Just like wine is not one thing, tea isn’t either. You may have tried a single wine and didn’t like it, but that doesn’t mean you’ll dislike all wine. The same goes for tea. Wine has red and white grapes of many varietals – like chardonnay, sauvignon blanc, merlot, and syrah to name a few (and as I know from living in Italy, so many more!). With tea there are 6 categories to acquaint yourself with: black tea, green tea, white tea, yellow tea, oolong, and pu’er. I think prior to living in Milan I had only ever tried the first three types, but found out from doing lots of tastings that I quite like both oolong and pu’er as well.

Cape Naturaliste Vineyards, winner of some prestigious awards that we don't remember the name of...

Importance of Terroir

Prior to starting with tea tastings, I thought of terroir as that French word for soil that I can’t quite pronounce correctly and always gets thrown around by wine snobs. Of course, when it comes to wine-making, characteristics of the soil like minerality and salinity do impact how a grape will taste, along with things like the amount of sunshine and the altitude at which the grapes are grown. And for tea? The effect on the growing plant is so very similar, affecting the tea as it grows and also the taste of the final product. In Sri Lanka for example, the plantations and packaged tea are actually organized by the altitude of where they were grown because that will tell you so much about what taste to expect.

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Processing Method is Also Key

Did you know that black tea and green tea can be produced from the same tea leaf? Apparently it’s all in the processing method. Processing tea leaves usually involves some form of heating and/or drying, to go from the leaf on a live plant to the dry version you see loose or inside a tea bag. There is also typically some type of rolling or crushing involved, depending on the shape – loose tea tends to be in larger pieces, while the tea you find inside of tea bags has usually been crushed fairly small. What exact steps are part of the processing method depend on which category of tea is being produced. Wine also undergoes a variety of processing methods, depending on the type of grape and the quality of the harvest. Grapes for wine undergo fermentation possibly in steel tanks, concrete tanks, large wooden barrels, or the smaller barriques (or a combination of the above), which in turn affects the taste and color of the wine.

It Will Taste Best Served/Brewed at the Correct Temperature

I’ve been enjoying wine for long enough that I know that not only are whites and rosés typically served chilled, while reds are not, but there is actually a lot more nuance than that depending on the grape. Some reds are really meant to be served chilled, or at least slightly chilled. Some white wines have more prominent flavors when they’re a little less cold than usual. For tea, it’s really the brewing temperature (and time) that impacts the final flavor and strength of your cuppa. Growing up, my mom would always boil water on the stove for her tea, while I typically just heated a mug of water in the microwave before immersing my tea bag. I always thought it was just laziness on my part, and that it was a sign of adulthood when I finally bought a tea kettle for my kitchen. Only recently did I discover that not all teas are meant to be steeped at boiling temperatures, and each one will have an ideal brewing temperature ranging from 80 to 100 degrees Celsius or 170 to 212° Fahrenheit. Brewing tea at the correct temperature helps to avoid that bitter taste it can sometimes take on, so perhaps my microwave strategy was wise? Fortunately for all of us, this information is often helpfully printed on the package that tea comes in, so you can brew at the temperature and for the amount of time directed and then taste the tea at its best.

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Color

Color can tell you a whole lot about a wine. Is your white wine pale, golden or hay-colored? Is your red a bright claret or a deep opaque purple? (Yes, readers, I’ve done a lot of wine tasting, those color descriptions took me about 15 seconds to type off the top of my head.) Color may be something pretty to take in, but can also tell you about what to expect when you take a sip of a glass of wine. And yup, tea is oh-so-similar. If you’re a tea drinker, you probably already know that the darker the color, typically the stronger the brew. And as you saw from the first section that outlines the 6 categories of tea, many of the ‘categories’ are really colors – black, green, white, and yellow. Because the tea leaves and/or processing method vary to produce those different tea types, the taste you can expect from the color also varies. Next time you have tea or wine, take the moment to savor the color as well =)

Wine tasting "with" the Queen
Wine tasting “with” the Queen

Importance of Smell

Usually for me I can tell whether I think I’ll like a wine or not based solely on its aroma. Is it pleasant to sniff? Or do you have a cozy moment inhaling the perfume of a piping hot cup of tea before your first sip? They say that taste can be up to 80 or 90% smell, and it turns out to be quite true. If you’re raising something to your mouth and it doesn’t smell appealing, you may not even get to your first sip. Not only does the aroma of tea and wine give you some kind of indication of whether you’ll like what you’re about to drink, but it will also set a baseline of what flavors you can expect when you do.

Tasting Notes

They give you tasting notes at tea tastings too, something I was delighted to discover. Although I can tell from a sniff if I think I’ll like something or not, I don’t have the most developed sense of smell in terms of discerning particular aromas. So it’s nice when there is some specific fruit or aroma I can hunt for as I sip based on what someone else has sensed. Tasting notes help me to appreciate the wine in a new way, and has a similar effect when I’m tasting tea. I may not always agree, but it’s good to have a starting point, and a little guidance from the experts helps me develop my own expertise over time, no matter how slowly I progress.

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Taste in Order from Mild to Bold

At my first tea tasting, when it was explained that we would be tasting the teas in a particular order from mild to bold it was again something I hadn’t considered before but made complete sense. Of course for me, I also find it fun to sometimes jump back to an earlier tea or wine sip, as the taste will change a bit if you taste something milder after one of the bolder options. I’ll even do this sometimes if I have loaded up a plate of food at a buffet – start with the most delicate dish while my palate is clear so I can appreciate it properly, the move on to the more bold flavors of the other food. Speaking of which…

Used for Cooking

Wine and tea are both liquids that can be added to a meal as you cook to impart some additional flavor or note. The alcohol in wine boils off when exposed to heat, so you are just left with the flavor when adding wine to a risotto, sauce, or stew. Even boiling it off can be a sauce in itself, like a red wine reduction you might put on a steak. Of course, a liquid like tea (or the leaves themselves) can also impart flavor to food. And the same way that the grapes from wine-making can be used to infuse hard liqueur to create a grappa, tea leaves can be used to infuse liquids other than water. Many ‘cooking with tea’ recipes involve using tea to infuse the dairy used to make desserts, like ice cream or panna cotta, but tea can also be used in stocks, marinades, or poaching liquids. Since tea comes from leaves, it could also be part of a spice rub or used to infuse condiments like oils and vinegars. The nice part about cooking with wine or tea is that it gives people who wouldn’t normally consume them an alternate way to appreciate it.

Can Be Paired with Different Dishes

I doubt I had ever considered the possibility of pairing teas with different course of a meal, but when I heard the suggestion from my friend “The Tea Lady,” I was intrigued. Just as you would pair certain wines with particular dishes, either because they have similar notes that tie together, or because it poses an interesting contrast of tastes, the same principles apply to pairing tea with food. Some teas are more earthy while others are more floral or smoky, and can make your taste buds appreciate your bites of food that much more.

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When it’s good, take some home with you!

When you get a chance to taste a lot of different varieties, whether of tea or wine, you’ll know which ones you’d like to purchase instead of just guessing at a tea store or wine shop. While I often like teas and wines that are considered the “best,” sometimes it is the tea or wine a tier or two down from the top of the line that I enjoy the most. Plus for me, sipping a tea or wine when I’ve seen where the plants grow and procured it at the source is just another (very sensory) way of remembering my travels and bringing a smile to my face wherever I am when I enjoy it.

 

I’m not sure if it’s just a quirk of my personality or a love of food and drink, but I find both tea and wine tasting incredibly interesting (and delicious). Are you a wine aficionado? Take a chance and explore some new teas that you may have never even heard of before. Are you a daily tea drinker who doesn’t usually go for wine? Take a chance and venture into new wine territory. For example, you may find that if you like floral teas, there is an aromatic wine for you.

Really, there are so many varieties of tea and wine, there’s bound to be something for everyone even if you don’t consider yourself a “tea person” or a “wine drinker.” What do you like most about tasting different types of tea? Or doing a wine tasting?

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