Cantinone Gia' Schiavi How to Eat Like a Local Where to Find the Best Cicchetti in Venice Local Tapas

How to Eat Like a Local: Best Cicchetti in Venice, Italy

November 16, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

What is typical, local Venice food? This was one of the initial questions I researched before my first trip to the city.

I often seek out regional specialties when I travel, as another dimension of getting a feel for a destination.

Plus, the local fare is usually best close to the source.

I had some preconceived notions about Venetian food – like seafood, of course – but the surprising part of my research when looking for what to eat in Venice led me to local, Venice tapas that I had never heard of before: cicchetti (chee-KETT-ee).

Venice Food: What are Cicchetti anyway?

Cicchetti is a word in Venetian dialect to describe small bites like tapas, and takes many forms.

The most typical cicchetti you’ll see is some form of topping on small slices of baguette-like bread (think crostini, although I don’t think I’ve ever had my cicchetti bread toasted).

Also common are polpette, which are meatballs or meatball-like mixtures made with fish or vegetables, then breaded and fried.

You’ll also see a fair amount of battered and fried fare, from fish to stuffed squash blossoms – it all depends on the place.

Regardless of the specific type, cicchetti will top any local’s list of what to eat in Venice.

You’ll see Venetians popping into places for a drink and a few cicchetti all day long, and especially at the end of the work day. Some people treat these Venice tapas as an appetizer, like the Milanese aperitivo, to be followed by a sit-down dinner later in the evening. Or a mid-day snack.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Others pick a single cicchetti location in Venice where they’ll linger for several hours, during which time they’ll eat enough cicchetti to count as a meal.

Or you can always stop into a few different bars as you might do sampling tapas in Spain, consuming a beverage and a cicchetto or two at each place.

Now that I’ve traveled to Venice on multiple trips, I’ve tried my fair share an obscenely large number of cicchetti spots – and have some favorites and definite opinions on the best cicchetti in Venice.

But when it comes to what to eat in Venice, nothing beats sampling these Venice tapas.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In general, wherever you are outside the central touristy area, you can spot the locals’ favorite bar by the crowd gathered outside, so keep your eyes open as you stroll around.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Watch the opening hours and days as some Venice cicchetti places are open late into the night, while others cater more to the breakfast and lunch crowd, shuttering by 7pm or so.

I have visited all of the cicchetti spots listed below.

My Venice cicchetti picks are listed in order of preference (with my favorite bars first), and also in clusters of places that are close to one another geographically – so this is an easy-to-use guide if you’d like to cicchetti bar hop.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re wondering what to eat in Venice as a solo traveler, cicchetti are ideal! You can grab them on the go or sit at a Venice tapas bar soaking up the atmosphere without feeling out of place.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

If you’d prefer to have a cicchetti tour instead – and let the tour guide do all the hard work – there are plenty of organized options available as well.

Where to Find the Best Cicchetti in Venice

Cicchetti Close to Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi

I like this spot for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.

The cicchetti are on smaller pieces of bread than other places, but this just means you can try more varieties.

Plus, it is very affordable – 3 cicchetti and a glass of wine on my recent visit set me back only €5.60 (US$6).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice – the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection – so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city.

Where to Stay Nearby: Quaint Bed & Breakfast Residenza Corte Antica is just on the other side of the Accademia Bridge over the Grand Canal. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the Cannaregio area of Venice, east of the Train Station

If you’re going to cicchetti bar hop in one spot, this is the area of Venice I’d recommend you go.

In particular, the stretch along the canal walking between the first two places is away from the tourist fray and has a lot of lively spots to pop in for a drink or more formal places for dinner.

Or just enjoy the relaxed atmosphere as you stroll between these three spots:

Vino Vero

For what to eat in Venice, look no further than this gem.

The cicchetti here are both colorful and delicious, and it’s situated in a lovely spot with tables out overlooking the water. Stop by for a few cicchetti, or stay for your entire meal like many others did when I visited.

The night I went, there was even a boat tour that pulled up in the water and had one person jump out to grab some cicchetti for the passengers to sample.

Cantina Aziende Agricole Roberto Berti

I did not eat any cicchetti here, although there were several typical ones available.

I did enjoy a glass of wine though, and they have quite a great selection to choose from.

There are only a few tables outside, but this is a great spot for people-watching as it’s along the street that many locals stroll along in the early evening from the train station to this more local part of town.

Osteria al Cicheto

Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists.

This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may get lost in your quest for Venice tapas – possibly walking past the turn off from the main street the first time like I did – but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.

There is a decent amount of table seating and also spots around the bar, and could easily be a spot for a full meal.

Where to Stay Nearby: The luxurious Hotel Carlton is just on the other side of the bridge from the Santa Lucia train station. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the Santa Croce area, south of the Train Station

Hostaria Vecio Biavarol

This is the closest of the spots to the train station, making it not that far from Osteria al Cicheto (listed above). The cicchetti are also delicious, and they are more than happy behind the bar to steer you in the right direction for both the food and wine choices, in a beautiful location.

Bacareto Da Lele

This is my least favorite of this cluster of three cicchetti spots, although it’s quite popular – you’ll spot it easily by the lively crowd outside.

I’d skip the food but often enjoy a drink here and soak up the atmosphere, adjacent to the water on one side and overlooking a church square on the other.

Cantina Arnaldi

Cantina means a wine cellar in Italian, and the delicious wine selections here live up to the name.

There are also varied, tasty cicchetti and this place is the most conducive of the nearby spots for staying for an entire meal. People will linger later into the evening enjoying just one more glass of delicious wine.

Where to Stay Nearby: A brief walk from Cantina Arnaladi, recently renovated Ca’ Riza is a convenient yet homey spot (and offers rooms from singles to quadruples). Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Four-star luxury at Hotel Moresco is also just a short stroll away. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the San Marco area, just east of St. Mark’s Square

Magna Bevi Tasi

This is obviously in a very tourist-filled part of town, but is just far enough away to be a nice escape from the crowds, with some tasty bites and great beverage selection.

It’s also nice to sit outside on the busy piazza and watch the crowds as you enjoy your cicchetti.

Where to Stay Nearby: The affordable luxury of Locanda Al Leon is just steps away. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the San Marco area, south of Rialto Bridge

Enoteca Al Volto

If you are going to several cicchetti spots around Rialto (see the several other options below also), I highly recommend coming here first – the ambiance is local despite its proximity to high-traffic tourist areas, and the cicchetti are high-quality.

Cicchetti in the San Polo area, north of Rialto Bridge

The three spots below are definitely the most touristy of the list, due to their proximity to Rialto Bridge – and to each other.

Their doors are filled with stickers of international recommendations, and the clientele reflect that. You’ll hear a lot of English and other languages besides Italian, and even see tour groups clustered outside sometimes.

But they’re popular by being convenient to where visitors will already be.

And if your time in Venice is limited, these may be the places you check out for cicchetti (in addition to Enoteca Al Volto, which is also close to Rialto Bridge and listed above):

Cantina Do Spade

This is my favorite spot of the three cicchetti bars on this side of the Rialto Bridge, for its solid cicchetti choices and traditional atmosphere.

There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition. And at Cantina Do Spade, they should know – this spot has been perfecting Venice food since 1448! (No, not a typo.)

All’Arco

Another traditional place quite close by, All’Arco tends to close earlier than the other spots, so swing by for lunch or early in the evening for a great wine pour and typical Venetian hospitality.

Osteria Alla Ciurma

I find the cicchetti here a bit greasy, and there are a lot of tourists (and tourist groups) that stop by.

While it’s not my favorite food stop, it is another location quite close to the others mentioned above that has great local wine choices.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Ask about the wine in the large container at the bar.

Where to Stay Nearby:

Explore AirBNB options HERE

Check Hotel and B&B prices in Venice HERE

Want to know more about Venice and making the most of the city?

Check out my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice. I also have a fun picture series of 11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice and of course my comprehensive Venice Cheat Sheet, which includes more Venice food options, with some great restaurant options (besides all the places mentioned above for finding the best cicchetti in Venice).

Looking to book a room in Venice? Check out these great spots!

Ca’ Riza – Ideal for Solo Travelers or Groups

Locanda al Leon – Best Value for Money

Residenza Corte Antica – Quaint B&B in a Great Location

Whatever neighborhood you’re in, the Venice food scene is vibrant and there’s no shortage of places to pop in for a glass of wine or a small bite. And then you can decide for yourself where to find the best cicchetti in Venice!

Going to other places in Italy on your visit?

Wherever you’re headed, I’ve got you covered! After years of living in Milan, I’ve highlighted My Top Spots for Aperitivo there. My extensive experience will also help you Find the Perfect Place to Stay in Florence and the Best Bites to Eat in Rome. Plus a cheat sheet of all the Best Things to Do and Eat in Naples is a must-read before you go.

Where have you had the best cicchetti in Venice? Are there any questions about Venice food or cicchetti that I haven’t answered yet? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

Planning a trip to Venice sometime soon (or want to)? ‘Pin’ this post to save for later!

Venice CHEAT SHEET

November 18, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

You could spend weeks in Venice without exhausting your options for museums to explore, churches to visit, and places for a delicious meal. But since your time visiting will likely be much more limited, here’s the Travel Savvy Gal “cheat sheet” for the essentials:

Things to Do

Rialto Bridge

It’s iconic. It is quite tall, so offers a great view of the Grand Canal. You’re decently likely to pass it anyway as you wander Venice, but in case not, seek it out at least once.

St. Mark’s Square

This is the piazza you see in many of the typical photographs of Venice. With several tourist attractions right on the square you’ll likely be here already. When you are, take some time in the square itself to appreciate its grandeur.

Doge’s Palace

Exploring here will give you a solid insight into Venetian history and life.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s worth reserving a ticket for the Doge’s Palace in advance, as you’ll have a much shorter queue to enter.

I of course recommend visiting for longer if you can, but if you only have one day in Venice, read more about how to spend One Day in Venice for tips about making the most of your limited time.

Churches of Note

St. Mark’s Basilica

If you’re going to see one sight in Venice, this should be it. The decoration is a little over-the-top for my personal preference, but the church is just incredible.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Lines to enter the Basilica can be long, so reserve a time slot in advance on the “Reservations” section on the website linked above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to go to the outdoor terraces for a lovely view of St. Mark’s Square.

Basilica dei Frari

There are more sections to this basilica than meets the eye, so it was a wonderful place to explore and see a variety of artwork and carved altars in different mediums.

Off the Beaten Path

Islands

As you know from my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice, it’s definitely worth it to set aside the time to explore some of Venice’s islands beyond the main sections. If you do take a day to island-hop, the best meal I’ve had outside of Venice’s main areas was on the island of Murano – see the Best Bites section below.

Jewish Museum & Ghetto Tour

While 2016 marked 500 years since the establishment of the Jewish Ghetto in Venice, Jewish life has existed in the city for even longer. The museum gives a good overview, and the tour of the ghetto is engaging and excellent.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Typical tour times may be altered for the Sabbath (from late Friday through Saturday) and on Jewish holidays, so verify availability in advance.

Clock Tower

The tower requires advance booking, which you can do not far in advance at the ticket office on the other side of St. Mark’s Square. It’s a different perspective on the area, and has some great views of St. Mark’s (the Square and the Basilica) from the upper levels.

Biennale

There is a massive art exhibition in odd-numbered years, with pavilions by country that contain some fairly progressive art. Most are located in the Giardini area, although there are pavilions all around the city. Even-numbered years have been focusing on architecture.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

The art collection here is truly outstanding, and is situated with some lovely sculpture gardens and terraces on the Grand Canal. Worth a visit, although not typical to Venice per se.

Best Bites (favorite restaurants)

Corte Sconta

A well-known fish restaurant, you can get a tasting menu of small plates to sample the variety of Venetian seafood, for a minimum of two people. It also has popular pasta and gnocchi specials daily that I’ve found to be quite delicious – be sure to ask your server about these as they’re not printed in the menu.

La Lanterna da Gas

Some of the portion sizes are quite sizeable, so order accordingly or ask your server for recommendations. While large, the polenta with baccalà (salt cod) appetizer was exceptional.

Osteria al Duomo

Located on the island of Murano, there are a variety of typical Italian pastas, meat dishes, and pizzas on offer. I had a seafood carbonara here that I still dream about.

Vecia Cavana

An institution for Venetian cuisine with a lot of local customers, a meal here can be a good value or extravagant, depending on what you order. Although known for its fish options, the standout dish on my recent visit was the fried liver and polenta.

Best Bites (for cicchetti, Venetian tapas)

My three favorite spots are listed below. Check out my cicchetti post for a thorough run-down of different spots for Venetian tapas, organized by neighborhood.

Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi

This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice, so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city. I like it for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.

Do Spade

This long-time Venetian spot has solid cicchetti choices and a traditional atmosphere. There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition.

Osteria al Cicheto

Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists. This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may walk past the turn off the main street the first time like I did, but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice – Best Spots to Sample Cicchetti

Best Bites (gelato)

I haven’t loved any of the gelato I’ve had in Venice, although I’ve tried many places. I’d recommend waiting to be in other parts of Italy to savor some frozen goodness, but if the craving hits in Venice, these are the best places I’ve tried:

Gelatoteca SuSo

A bit hard to find, but many agree that this is Venice’s top gelato spot.

La Mela Verde

Their signature green apple flavor (mela verde in Italian) is my favorite of what I’ve sampled.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Venice

What’s your favorite part about Venice? Share in the Comments below.

View of a Boat on the Grand Canal in Venice

Where to Stay in Venice, Italy

June 25, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

How does one person become an expert on where to stay in Venice, Italy?

In this case, live in Milan for several years, under 3 hours by train from Venice, and visit often like I did!

Venice was so close to Milan that I visited often, sometimes even as part of a last-minute weekend plan. So when people ask me about where to stay in Venice, Italy, I have quite a few ideas from all of the great places I’ve stayed.

Amazingly, I never repeated a hotel or B&B stay in my many trips. Partly because it’s fun to explore new neighborhoods and get to know the city, and also because there was one trip with my parents when they visited, one as a solo traveler, another with friends, and so on.

Which is good news for you, because I have *personally stayed* at almost all of the places listed below. And can attest to what great jumping off points they are for exploring this magical city.

I don’t know that there is one singular best place to stay in Venice – either a specific hotel or neighborhood – but there are certainly are many best places to stay in Venice, Italy.

And let’s be real, this is life, not every experience was completely magical. So I’ve also included plenty of TRAVEL SAVVY TIPS and resources to help you avoid common pitfalls that come along with staying in Venice – so you can focus on enjoying this incredible city!

Where to Stay in Venice, Italy

As you’ll see in your research, there is no one right or easy answer as to where to stay in Venice.

It may depend on:

Whether you are traveling solo or as a couple or in a group
Whether you are traveling with family or friends
If this is your first trip to Venice or a return visit
How many nights you’ll be staying

Are you overwhelmed yet?

I am all smiles strolling around Venice, Italy and the side canals

Not to worry, while the options are many, I think there are really some very basic things to keep in mind.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most visitors when deciding where to stay in Venice will either want to be close to the train station OR close to the main tourist sights around St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco. → Decide which you’d prefer.

And it’s also important to keep in mind that Venice is not like other cities you’ve ever visited. For one, there are NO CARS.

So it helps to have some idea of what sights you’ll see on your visit, and how much walking you’d like to do to pick the best location to stay in Venice.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Regardless of where in Venice you stay, I always recommend staying close to a stop for the vaporetto, which is Venice’s metro system – by boat! It is a great way to get around the city and even to some of the islands you can’t reach by strolling across a bridge, like Murano and Burano.

Best Places to Stay in Venice, Italy

Now this is the part you’ve been waiting for – specific recommendations of places you can stay that are convenient, affordable (or maybe even a splurge!) and considered to be in a best location to stay in Venice

Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to St. Mark’s Square

If this is your first trip to Venice, let’s face it, you probably want to stay close to St. Mark’s Square, known in Italian as Piazza San Marco. That is where many iconic sights are located, and you’ll get to view them at all hours of the day as you explore.

While you’ll need to get yourself from the train or bus to your hotel (most likely by boat, of course!) once you have dropped off your luggage, Venice will be at your doorstep.

Arriving at the airport in Venice?

Check out options for airport transfers HERE

There is also a bus from the Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma (right by the train station and main vaporetto metro boat stops) that runs every 20-30 minutes and costs €8 one-way or €15 for a round-trip ticket.

Find the current bus timetable for the “Venice Marco Polo Airport – Venice Piazzale Roma (express service)” HERE

FOR AFFORDABLE LUXURY

Locanda Al Leon

St. Mark's Square Piazza San Marco in Venice Italy — Just a few steps from here to get back to Locanda al Leon

Location:
3-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
3-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats) with a lot of available routes

Price:
$150/€130 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
I got lucky and was able to stay here last minute on a July visit and can attest that even though it is a gorgeous, historic building with a traditional Venetian feel, the A/C is modern and will combat the hottest day you might face in Venice. The staff is very hospitable and it really is a beautiful property. Plus, the hotel is in a great location, so it’s really great value for money.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! They also have some cheaper single rooms if you are a solo traveler.

Read Reviews | Book Now

QUAINT B&B

Residenza Corte Antica

View of Ponte all'Accademia Where to Stay in Venice Italy — View of Ponte all’Accademia, the bridge over the Grand Canal in Venice

Location:
10-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
4-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
2- minute walk to the Bridge of the Accademia/Ponte dell’Accademia (one of the few bridges that crosses the Grand Canal!)

Price:
$160/€140 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
With a 5.0 score on Trip Advisor with 500+ reviews, who doesn’t love this Bed & Breakfast? Although I have not been able to stay here yet, this is my top choice for my next visit to Venice. While an easy walk to St. Mark’s Square and the main tourist sites, it is also close to a bridge across the Grand Canal that gets less attention than Rialto Bridge, but is just as beautiful. Plus, some of my favorite Venice attractions are right across the bridge. The B&B is recently renovated and reviewers talk about the beautiful property, delicious breakfast, great service, and excellent recommendations around Venice from staff. This is in a quieter part of San Marco quarter, which is a plus for me as well.

Read Reviews | Book Now

Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to the Train Station

Train Station Santa Lucia in Venice Italy

The main train station in Venice, Stazione Santa Lucia, has the advantage of also being close to most of the various metro (vaporetto) lines, so it is an easy jumping off point, regardless of where you’d like to explore around Venice.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be aware that a “hotel close to the Train Station” may also be over a bridge with a lot of stairs, so consider the exact location of your accommodation when deciding which luggage to use for your trip.

READ MORE: 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

This is my favorite part of Venice to stay, because it is accessible to boats and exploring by foot, but is far away enough from the main tourist hub to have a more relaxed feel. You also have better food options nearby if you’re tired after a day of sightseeing and want to stay close by.

GRAND CANAL VIEW & ROOFTOP BAR

Hotel Carlton

Location:
5-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a tall bridge)
5-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)

Price:
$200-300/€190-270 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
This is one of the absolutely closest hotels you can find by the train station, which is your likely arrival point. It’s just a short walk from the station and over a bridge, with plenty of locals lined up to help you with your luggage (for a charge, of course). As for the hotel, it’s the only room I’ve stayed at in Venice with a view of the Grand Canal, so if you splurge for a canal view room you are in for a treat. When my parents visited we stayed here, and they were able to get a good deal through a travel agent back home. Plus, their rooftop bar, the Sky Lounge, is a luxurious spot to spend the evening sipping away as you look out over the water.

Read Reviews | Book Now

TOP-RATED HOTEL ON TRIP ADVISOR

Hotel Moresco

Location:
8-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a bridge)
8-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)

Price:
$250-300/€230-280 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
Although I haven’t stayed here, this would be the ultimate splurge hotel in Venice, still with the convenience of the location close to the train station. Those who have been lucky enough to stay here rave about the service and note that staff members exceed expectations so everyone had excellent stays. Although close for getting around, it is also in a quieter neighborhood than the Hotel Carlton above.

Read Reviews | Book Now

CHEAPEST OPTION (& FOR SOLO TRAVELERS/GROUPS)

Ca’ Riza

Location:
10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station
20-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
10-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)

Price:
$110-160/€100-150 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
The word ca’ is a shortened version of casa, or house, and there is definitely a homey feel for this place. This was my favorite spot to stay as a solo traveler, and is more affordable than other spots due to having a shared bathroom for the single rooms. The property also has double, triple, and quadruple rooms with private bathrooms. The location is in easy walking distance to stop of my favorite cicchetti and restaurant spots, and also has been renovated since my last stay.

Read Reviews | Book Now

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice – Best Spots to Sample Cicchetti

Where to Stay With a Group or Family

While there’s always the chance of scoring a great hotel or B&B deal, I find that for more than 2 people, an AirBNB is typically the cheapest and most convenient accommodation option – not just in Venice, but in all of Italy!

If you’ve never tried it before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

Before booking your AirBNB, definitely read reviews and make sure that other guests have had their stay go smoothly, as not all Venice AirBNB experiences are good ones. (For my one bad AirBNB experience in Venice, I ended up staying the rest of the weekend at the lovely Locanda al Leon – the first spot on this list – which completely redeemed the trip!)

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Pay extra attention to the availability of the host in case of a problem. Also check reviews to see if people met their host quickly or waited a long time, which happens more frequently with AirBNBs in Venice vs. other places.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you visit in summer, be sure that there was adequate A/C noted by other guests (and that the property has it in the first place!).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving very early or late in the day, make sure there will be someone available at your arrival time.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to have the ability to call local phone numbers and/or be on a data signal to use apps to get in touch with the person you are meeting, if needed.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Of course, you may be surprised to learn that AirBNB can sometimes be more expensive than a hotel, so I always recommend checking your options so you can make an informed choice:

Explore AirBNB options in Venice HERE

Check Hotel and B&B prices in Venice HERE

Tips on Where to Stay in Venice and Booking Strategies

For most visitors, the challenge is not where to stay in Venice, but how to get to your accommodation once you arrive in the city!

Since cars are not allowed in Venice, visitors basically arrive by bus or train (the stations for both are close to one another), and then make their way to a hotel or guesthouse on foot or by boat.

While some hotels offer shuttle service to arrive, I’ve always found my way on my own.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Whatever your plan, take into account how you will arrive and how far somewhere is from the train station when making your hotel booking.

When deciding on where to stay in Venice, you can quickly check details using the public transportation option on Google Maps – in Venice, it shows you boat routes!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Sometimes B&Bs are more expensive than hotels – and sometimes the reverse is true – so be sure to check for Venice accommodations with your dates inserted to compare prices and availability.

However you decide to book, be sure to consult the Travel Savvy Gal Checklist for Booking Accommodation to make sure there’s nothing you forget to check when you decide where to stay in Venice.

Once you’ve booked, wherever you’re staying will likely provide information on the best way to arrive, whether it is by foot or boat.

Actv metro boat/vaporetto in Venice, Italy — Actv metro boat (vaporetto) in Venice, Italy

BOAT OPTIONS

If you are figuring this out on your own, there are 2 main boat options:

Boat Taxi – this is different from the metro boat (vaporetto) and different from a gondola. Just like you can hail a car taxi on a city street, you can grab a boat taxi leaving the docks next to the train station.

Boat Metro (vaporetto) – Like in any other city, the public transportation option will be the cheapest. You can purchase vaporetto tickets from a machine in person when you arrive, or arrange it ahead of time as part of a Venice City Pass. There is also an app for your mobile phone: the AVM Venezia Official App.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! No matter how you purchase your vaporetto ticket, be sure to validate the ticket by scanning it with the machine on the dock outside of the train station. They will come and check sometimes and you could be fined if you forget!

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid the Biggest Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Want to know more about Venice and making the most of the city? Check out my other Venice posts!

READ MORE: 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice – Best Spots to Sample Cicchetti

READ MORE: 11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice

READ MORE: Venice Cheat Sheet

Going to other places in Italy on your visit?

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence

READ MORE: Best Bites: Where to Eat in Rome

READ MORE: Naples Cheat Sheet

And for some more tips on traveling across Italy:

READ MORE: Top 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

READ MORE: Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

Plus, invest in a hard copy (or electronic!) guide for extra trip planning details and inspiration:

Italy Travel Guide

Venice City Guide, including Day Trips

Pocket Venice Guide

Italian Phrasebook & Dictionary

Happy travels!

Lana

Are there any questions about staying in Venice that I haven’t answered yet? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

Planning a trip to Venice sometime soon (or want to)? Or not ready to book yet? ‘Pin’ this post to save for later!

How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

January 19, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

If you’re like me and love going out to a restaurant with a group of adventurous friends, because it means you get to sample even more different dishes, the thought of traveling solo may give you pause. How will you consume enough meals to taste all of the local dishes? What if there are multiple dishes you’d like to sample, but you’re just not hungry enough to order (and eat) them all?

As someone who both loves to eat and savors my time traveling solo, this issue has come up for me time and again. Over the last two decades or so, I have definitely honed what types of food I seek out when I’m on my own on the road, to maximize the number of different bites and how much local cuisine I get to experience. And fortunately, as solo travel has become more commonplace, I don’t get nearly the amount of looks or raised eyebrows as I used to when asking for a “table for one.”

How to Dine Solo, Your Own Way

“Oh no,” you’re thinking, “I just don’t feel comfortable eating at a restaurant by myself.” Don’t worry, that’s okay! Several of the options below involve street food or eating-on-the-go. And even at a proper restaurant, a lot of times there is a bar where you can sit and order food and socialize, or possibly a communal table where you may encounter others traveling solo or other friendly diners.

For those of you ready to dine solo at a restaurant for the first time, it can look like whatever you’re comfortable with. I’ve seen people reading a newspaper or a book as they eat alone, which for many eliminates what would otherwise be a socially awkward situation. Others spend it on their smart phone, reading, planning, or staying in touch with friends. Some solo diners sit back and quietly take in their surroundings. And others will just keep a deep focus on the food, slowly savoring each bite.

Personally, I tend to either be introspective, reflecting on my day or strategizing for the day ahead, or will go into people-watching mode. I’ll sit and quietly observe the diners around me inside the restaurant, pretending I am at an outdoor table at a cafe watching the passers-by. Occasionally, I’ll read – usually a long-form newspaper article or an article to learn more about a tourist attraction I already visited. And when the food comes, I do my best to channel my focus on truly enjoying the flavors as I eat. Do what works best for you!

Foods to Seek Out

To eat well during solo travel, my basic strategy is to cobble together a bunch of different bites on my own, by sampling the offerings of different street food vendors or enjoying small plates of food at a sit-down restaurant – in whatever combination feels right on a particular trip. Here’s what to look for:

Appetizers

I mention a lot of specific types of cuisine below, but in fact, any restaurant can be turned into your own customized version of small plates by simply ordering 2-3 starters or sides instead of a main dish. Just ask before you order, and most places will be happy to accommodate you. It can also be helpful to specify if you want your dishes to arrive all at once, or to be brought out one at a time.

Bakeries

Bakeries and pastry shops (or bakery sections in supermarkets) can offer a quick bite in the morning to leave room for a larger lunch. You can also get a taste of local life by sampling the baked good of choice, whether sweet or savory. Or get a bunch of smaller items to sample for lunch, as nibbles throughout the day, or snacks to consume while out hiking.

Breakfast or Brunch

You may not have thought of it this way before, but many breakfast or brunch options can really be several different types of food all on a single plate together: eggs, potatoes, vegetables, and a sauce. Even if breakfast is included with my accommodation, I will still sometimes go out somewhere for a more authentic first meal of the day, and a lot of countries have very local breakfast options that you won’t see anywhere else (check out this post on Singaporean breakfast for the details on one of my favorites). And many breakfasts can be ordered for take away if you don’t feel like dining alone.

Buffets

In general I’m not a huge buffet person, but when I’m on the road for a limited time, it can often be the most effective way to sample many different dishes of the local cuisine. Often hotels or hotel restaurants will serve food buffet-style, and you typically don’t need to be a guest at the hotel to partake. Do be sure to check ahead of time when buffet meals will be available, as in certain locales it will only be offered on 1 night each week (or only specifically feature local cuisine on a single night).

Happy Hour

Taking place usually over a few hours in the afternoon, happy hour often includes special deals on small portions of food and allows you to sit at the bar if you feel like socializing. Italy has especially good happy hour options, from small bites or buffet spreads at aperitivo to traditional tapas in Venice known as cicchetti. Wherever you’ll be traveling solo likely has some similar local happy hour specials. Ask at your hostel or hotel, or gather some intel from locals who can point you in the right direction.

Indian restaurants

In my experience, there are a fair number of Indian restaurants all over the world that have lunch buffets or set menus available. When I am traveling solo and seeking out Indian food, I will also peruse a menu in advance to see if there is thali available, another option which is a built-in way to try lots of dishes. A thali is basically like a sampler platter and will include bread, rice, and a mix of other curries and dishes, all for a reasonable price. Usually a vegetarian and meat thali option will both be offered.

Set Menus

You’ll see a set menu option more often for lunch, with a choice of a few dishes for each course, sometimes including a beverage and/or dessert. Set menus offer a good value on price as well. One of my favorite places to take advantage of a set menu is in Liechtenstein, which otherwise can be a pricey place to dine out. Keep your eyes open starting in the late morning when these specials begin to be advertised, and find a spot that strikes your fancy or fits your budget.

Spanish restaurants

I have one word for you: tapas! These small plates have become trendy in a lot of places outside of Spain, so in many countries you’ll be able to find a Spanish restaurant where the dishes come in small enough portions that you can pick out a few different ones and still have a reasonably sized meal for one. Of course this works in Spain as well, and is especially fun at a busy market stall. Plus, many tapas places I’ve visited – both in Spain and elsewhere – have a bar where you can sit and order dishes, which can be a more social experience for solo travellers.

Street Food

There are many cities renowned for their street food offerings, but even for most others, you can find delicious and inexpensive bites on the go. Street food lets you eat with your other senses first – hearing the sizzle of a piece of meat on a grill, smelling enticing aromas waft toward you, or seeing where the locals queue up for the best bites. I’ve had some of my best street food experiences in Asia (Bangkok & Chiang Mai in Thailand have possibly been my favorite spots – for being able to get small bites from a lot of different vendors). But if you keep your eyes open you’ll see street vendors in most cities you visit, and there are also a lot of places where Food Trucks are trendy and ever-present with many types of cuisines represented. Go ahead and sample whatever catches your eye. Or tempts one of your other senses.

Tasting Menus

On the opposite end of the budget spectrum, you can also get a fair bit of food variety on the high-end of dining, especially when there is a tasting or degustation menu available. And at several of these more fancy establishments, you’ll even have the option to sit at the bar or communal table, which can be a less intimidating experience for the solo diner. This can be true even at Michelin-starred places, like the satisfying tasting menu I recently enjoyed at Stockholm’s Ekstedt (sitting at a communal table where I met and chatted during the whole meal with another solo traveller!).

Or the very reasonably priced tasting menus I enjoyed on my own at Restaurant Bieberbau in Berlin and several restaurants around Malta.

Turkish (or Middle Eastern) restaurants

This is another cuisine that naturally lends itself to having a lot of small dishes – called mezze – cobbled together to form a meal. Think grilled meats, falafel balls, hummus, babaganoush, and tabbouli in small portions that together can form a satisfying single meal with a whole lot of variety. Middle Eastern cuisines can also be well-suited to vegetarians, as many of the mezze are vegetable- or legume-based.

Vegetarian restaurants

Despite not having meat on the menu, vegetarian and vegan restaurants can offer some of the best variety of bites on a single plate. I usually encounter a mix of starches, proteins, and vegetables that can be mixed and matched for a single dish. Sometimes there are even small plates available. And although I’m not a vegetarian, some of my most recent memorable bites dining solo have been at vegetarian establishments.

Of course, there is no one right way to eat well while traveling solo. This list is really a starting point for you to venture out and figure out what types of cuisine and dining formats feel comfortable for you, and help you to maximize your time alone on the road. And of course, as you become a more and more seasoned solo traveler, use this list as inspiration for that food or restaurant to try next!

Do you notice yourself gravitating toward certain foods when you travel solo? What things have you found most helpful to keep in mind for eating well when you travel on your own? Any other advice or cuisines to add to the list? Share your tips below!

Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

July 12, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

The only way to know good gelato is by trying lots of it and getting your taste buds accustomed to the nuances of this frozen delight – and don’t worry, I did a lot of “research” about where to locate the best gelato in Italy during the three years I lived there. And of course, on my recent return visit.

Let’s just say that I’ve had A LOT of gelato.

And as you enjoy as much gelato as I have, it becomes easier and easier with time to pick out the best spots.

I’ve organized my recommendations by city, presented alphabetically, but you’ll notice that I didn’t include every town I’ve visited or even every gelateria I’ve liked. Only the gelato spots that I found served a really superlative product made this round-up.

The best gelato in Italy can be found in tourist centers as often as off-the-beaten-path spots, but there is a taste that gives you pause and delights with intense flavor and smoothness at all of the locations I’ve listed.

So go ahead, find excellent gelato and treat yourself daily – just like the Italians do!

More About Gelato in Italy

The Basics.

Gelato comes from the Italian word for frozen, but let’s be clear, gelato is not just “Italian ice cream.” It is a very discerning product made with a different process and a different philosophy, which is what makes the end result so memorable.

Proper gelato is served a bit warmer than traditional ice cream, so it is less likely to make your teeth hurt or get an ice cream headache, but this higher temperature is also one of the key parts that contributes to the flavor and texture that makes gelato so delicious – more on both below.

There’s a lot you can tell on sight as well. Many of the places with the best gelato will keep it inside opaque metal canisters, and really good gelato does not stay in those intricate mounds that many of the tourist spots will feature.

And where do you find your gelato in Italy? At a gelateria, of course!

Flavor.

Gelato is also unique because it aims to capture seasonal ingredients at peak freshness.

So while your favorite flavor may not be available depending on when you’re in Italy, gelato flavors you may not like in other places are likely to be exceptional when you go. The two flavors that are universally delicious when you’re in Italy are some of the most local – pistachio (which comes from Sicily) and hazelnut, or nocciola (from the northern Piedmont region).

The intensity of gelato is also related to the churning process, which means less air inside compared to ice cream, leading to bolder, more concentrated flavors. And that warmer serving temperature also has that flavor intensifying effect.

Texture.

Gelato is churned differently from ice cream too, going at a slower pace that results in less air getting mixed in and a denser product. The combination of its composition and warmer temperature leads to the elasticity that gives you that perfectly smooth texture as you savor each concentrated bite.

Even if the flavors are wonderful, anything less than a creamy texture will take away from the gelato experience.

It’s good for you!

No, really! Okay, maybe not quite, but you may be surprised with the density and concentrated flavors of gelato that it actually has fewer calories than ice cream. Gelato tends to use more milk than cream and does not involve egg yolks like many ice creams, so there is also less fat involved.

So go ahead, indulge.

Gelato Etiquette.

Honestly, this is probably not much different than your ice cream experience in other countries. It’s completely acceptable to ask for a taste of a few flavors before you decide what to buy, even if there’s a huge line building up behind you.

The size of your gelato will determine how many different flavors you can get. Typically this is well-signed and you’ll see different size cups displayed at the top of the counter, with both the price and number of gusti, or flavors, indicated. In general, a “small” allows you to pick 2 gusti and you’ll need to get at least a “medium” sized one to enjoy 3 different ones.

Also, be ready to state whether you’ll be having your gelato in a cup (coppetta) or cone (cono).

Every gelateria does things its own way, so even if you get a cup, you may be lucky enough to get a mini cone or wafer stuck on top:

Fortunately for all of us, gelaterie deal in volume, so this is a relatively inexpensive snack that won’t break your budget. An afternoon gelato is part of the daily ritual for many Italians, and it can easily be part of yours when you visit.

Like coffee in Italy, you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised about how cheap it is compared to ice cream at home. In most places it costs only €2.50-3 for a small-sized gelato, often going up in increments of just 50 centesimi, or cents – half a Euro.

TIP! Buying gelato is a great time to spend some of the pile of Euro coins you’ve likely accumulated during your visit!

The Best Gelato in Italy – by City

So, let’s get down to it, where do you go for the best spots that aren’t just catering to tourist whims but producing authentic, seasonal, bold, and smooth gelato?

Bergamo

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

I don’t usually find my favorite gelateria right on the central square, but this spot on the Piazza Vecchia of Bergamo’s elevated upper city delivers. Fruit flavors are super intense with just the right balance to not be too tart or sweet, and the creamy flavors are perfectly smooth. Fancier places will dot your stroll from the funicular or city gate, but it’s worth waiting until you get here to order an afternoon gelato.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Bergamo

Bologna

Cremeria Funivia

I didn’t fall in love with Bologna my first trip, but this was one of the outstanding places that helped change my mind on a return visit. Yes, the gelato really is that delicious. Like many of the spots on this list, they offer both traditional and more inventive flavors, but everything really is outstanding and hits that incredible balance of flavor and texture.

Como

Gelateria Lariana

There are many similar-looking gelato shops along the shore of Lake Como, but this is the only one I return to again and again. Despite its touristy location, the many locals who also stop in tell you that this is just delicious gelato. It is easy to spot with the many people hanging around or stopping to sit outside as they enjoy what I imagine for many is part of their daily routine.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como

Florence

Gelateria Carraia

Gelato is all about the freshness of the ingredients, and this gelateria calls itself artisanal for a reason. Lots of top gelato lists include this spot as the best in Florence, and I definitely agree. Stroll to the far side of the Arno River from the historical center and don’t be dissuaded by the line you’re likely to encounter. This gelato – especially any one of their signature flavors – is worth the wait!

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence

Mantua

Gelateria Loggetta

You’ll see the signs proclaiming the many accolades this gelateria has received, and one taste will have you convinced as well that the awards are well-deserved. It is just so spot on when it comes to flavors and textures. And you’ll have the occasional experimental flavor thrown in with classics done very well.

Milan

Ciacco

There are now a couple of Milan locations of this spot (plus ones in Bergamo and Parma), but after 3 years of living in Milan, I had to put my favorite Milano gelateria in the Milan section, of course. You won’t have to venture far to locate the main Milan outpost just a short stroll from the main Cathedral, Milan’s Duomo. The standards are done exceptionally well, with bold pops of flavor and silky smooth texture you’ll want to savor. There are usually a few seasonal creative flavors to enjoy as well. Possibly my all-time favorite flavor was a savory squash one I enjoyed my last autumn living there:

Il Massimo del Gelato

Are you a chocolate lover? Then this is your gelato heaven. Named the ultimate or maximum (massimo) of gelato, the flavors do not disappoint. In addition to the fruit and nut flavors you’d expect, there are also usually close to a dozen of variations just of chocolate, from different types of chocolate, to mixtures involving orange or different liqueurs. And it’s even better than you’re imagining right now!

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Rome

Gelateria Dei Gracchi

Rome has no shortage of gelato places, so when one is doing well enough to expand to multiple locations, you know it’s delicious. There are several flavors that you won’t find at most spots, but my hands-down favorite is the crema di pinoli, the cream of pine nuts which is perfectly flavored and velvety to devour. Get in line with the local families taking their children after school and find out why it’s their go-to spot in Rome, too.

Fatamorgana Gelato

Many of the gelato flavors you’ll find at Fatamorgana are inventive, from savory flavors to spices and herbs being mixed with your more typical chocolate or fruit base. Sure, there are the more usual flavors here, but many Fatamorgana branches are frequented by locals looking for something that is creative without sacrificing what makes gelato so delicious. It’s not the only creative gelateria I’ve sampled in Rome, but it’s the only one that also creates that perfect gelato texture with its more unusual ingredients.

San Gimignano

Gelateria Dondoli

There are two very popular gelato spots on the same piazza in San Gimignano – and both are likely to have lines out the door! Don’t worry though, Dondoli is the one you want. The queue moves fast and you will be treated to some incredibly creative, strong flavors and a silky smooth texture regardless of the flavor you choose. This Gelateria is known for its signature flavors, like the Crema di Santa Fina (with saffron cream and pine nuts) and Champelmo (pink grapefruit and sparkling wine). The view as you enjoy your gelato is pretty great, too:

Venice

Gelatoteca Suso

Venice is probably my least favorite major Italian city for gelato, but the best of all the ones I’ve tried is definitely this spot. The flavors are strong and each bite is smooth to savor, even though visually it looks less smooth than the other place I’ve featured. I also love it for serving gelato with one of its branded wafers, even when you get gelato in a cup.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice

READ MORE: Venice Cheat Sheet

Verona

Gelateria Savoia

Keeping locals happy in Verona since 1939, this historical gelateria continues to be the go-to spot for locals and with good reason. It is central and in a high-end location, giving just a touch of luxury, and has a wide list of flavors and other sweet treats to keep everyone satisfied.

Gelato may be more complex than you expected, but the good news is that great gelato comes down to two key things – flavor and texture. And given the frequent gelato consumption by Italians, all it takes is a conversation with any locals to get directed to the best gelateria nearby. As good as Italian food is, it’s always worth saving just a little bit of room for this afternoon (or evening) snack.

Did your favorite gelato in Italy make this list? What other gelato spots do you recommend for my next visit? Is there anything else you look for in a great gelato? I’m always looking to expand my gelato horizons =)

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The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

April 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Valpolicella and Soave are two of my favorite Italian wine regions, and conveniently both are a short distance outside the inviting Italian town of Verona, not far from Venice. The Valpolicella region to the north of Verona specializes in various red wines with a unique production method, while the Soave region to the east produces some lovely white wines. Most consider the Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany to be the two areas with the best producers, especially for Italian reds. While both of those regions are relatively close to Milan, it was actually the Valpolicella region where I ended up most often during my three years living in Italy, usually with visitors.

The reds of Valpolicella are in a slightly different style than Super Tuscans or a Piemontese Barolo, but can be more fruity and jammy, and in general more approachable. And I know several wine lovers whose favorite Italian reds come from this area, and these are certainly some of my favorites as well. Since the wine regions around Verona are less frequented by tourists than some of the other areas, it is easier to pop into a cantina without a reservation and taste wine. And you can find delicious wines at a great value, I’d definitely recommend planning to purchase wine as you taste, and having a plan for transporting the bottles back home.

In terms of the Valpolicella region, you’ll typically see 4 main types of red wine as well as a dessert wine called Recioto. All of these are made with different combinations and processing methods of the same main grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella (and sometimes Corvinone). The first, most basic wine is called Valpolicella Classico, the classic version that is not usually aged at all. The Valpolicella Superiore, or superior version, does undergo some aging, and is intended to be a more refined version of Valpolicella.

The fourth wine (yes, I skipped #3 on purpose) called Amarone is where the typical drying process of the Valpolicella region comes into play. When the grapes are harvested in the fall, usually around September or October, instead of being pressed right away, they are spread out and left to dry for several months, which intensifies the flavor of the grapes. Then sometime around January the grapes will actually be pressed and begin the multi-year aging process. Ripasso then is partway between a Valpolicella Superiore and an Amarone, since it involves the leftover pressed grapes from Amarone being mixed with Valpolicella Classico wine. The dessert wine Recioto is more similar to the straight Amarone, with residual sugars for sweetness (and this can vary from quite sweet to more balanced depending on the producer).

You might think that because of the somewhat linear progression of red wine production in Valpolicella, that everyone would like Amarone the best, then Ripasso, and so on. But that’s actually not how things shake out at all! Even without taking external factors like winery and the harvest year into play, some wine lovers prefer Ripasso while others prefer Amarone, depending on their personal tastes. Then when you consider the year of production and each winemaker’s approach, your favorite at a particular winery might be the Valpolicella Classico or Superiore. It all depends.

Which is why I advocate for doing a wine tasting when you visit, even if you’ve been before, since you may prefer different wines than last time (even at the same winery). Usually with each visit I was trying the wines from a different production year, and I’ve made repeat visits to most of the wineries on this list. So I’ve tasted different versions of the same wine over the years depending on what has recently been bottled and is available. Even at the same producer, my tastes as to which wines are my favorite have typically changed with each season. So taste before you buy, every time you go.

That same advice holds true for the Soave region on the other side of Verona: taste during each visit, as the wine changes quite a bit from year to year, even at the same producer. Soave itself is a white wine made principally from the Garganega grape, although other white grapes are sometimes included in small amounts. Like with Valpolicella reds, there are different levels of Soave – including a Superiore – depending on whether it is aged and the details of the blend.

Many Soave wineries also have vineyards in the area growing red grapes as well, so even if you go to taste white wines, you’ll be able to try their various Valpolicella reds as well. You don’t see much Soave wine in Valpolicella, although some of those wineries will produce other types of white wine. And a recent trend in the Valpolicella region is to use the same Amarone process of drying the grapes for months, but with different types of red grapes than you’d typically see, resulting in some of my favorite sips.

I’ve had some pretty fabulous wine tastings in the Valpolicella and Soave regions over my many visits. Here are my favorite places to go, listed alphabetically by region:

Valpolicella

Accordini Igino

Reservations: Not needed Mon-Fri, Required on Saturday

Tasting: Free, can also reserve a paid tasting paired with local food products

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

The staff is friendly and welcoming at this nearly 200-year old winery, with a light and inviting tasting room. The red wines typical of the region are solid, and they produce a few other white and red wines. I especially like their Recioto dessert wine, which isn’t sickly sweet but actually quite well-balanced.

Manara

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Bianco del Veneto, Rosso del Veneto, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

If you’re a non-Italian speaker, be sure to contact the winery in advance, as the one person in the tasting room does not always speak English. Their Valpolicella range is quite good, as is their Bianco del Veneto, or white wine from the region. But my absolute favorite, and the wine I can’t get enough of is their Rosso del Veneto, a jammy red produced from non-typical grapes in the Valpolicella style of drying the grapes first to intensify the flavors. Even if it’s not offered, be sure to ask to taste this gem, the Guido Manara!

Scriani

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

This family-run winery is welcoming, and has a beautiful tasting room and cellar where you’ll taste the wines. I think I’ve visited at least three or four times, and I like their wines better each time I go. Their straight Corvina is quite good, along with the full line of Valpolicella wines.

Speri

Reservations: Not needed, although there is the option to book in advance to visit the cellar

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Sant’Urbano, Amarone, Recioto

Another family-run place, there are usually several people on hand to provide a tasting, and I’ve never had to wait more than a few minutes for an English-speaking member of the family to guide me and my visitors. The wines are excellent, and I especially like their Sant’Urbano, which is partway between a Ripasso and an Amarone in taste. They have an excellent annual olive oil production for the family, with excess bottles on sale at the winery, so take advantage if they’re still available when you go.

Soave

Cantina di Soave

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting of 5 wines, for a modest fee

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

Founded in the late 1800s, this cantina, or winery, is actually a collective of grape producers from the area, with all grapes having to meet minimum quality requirements to be used in their production. You’ll only taste a handful of wines at the end of the tour, but they are delicious, and the winery offers a wider range of wines for purchase in their shop. And the winery itself is quite beautiful.

Monte Tondo

Reservations: Not needed, although it does get crowded sometimes; must reserve for tour

Tasting: Free, fee for the tour + tasting

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

The experience visiting Monte Tondo without a reservation has been varied for me, depending on the number of other guests. If it’s not crowded, you’ll get very attentive pours and descriptions, and it can be more rushed if you’re there during a busy period or when there is a group also visiting. It’s still a good option to drop in and sample a variety of Soave whites, although there is the possibility of guaranteeing dedicated attention by reserving a formal tour and tasting with cheese and charcuterie pairing for a fee.

TIP! Other than the dates of Cantine Aperte in May and September, most wineries are closed on Sundays.

If you’ve never tried a Valpolicella red wine or a Soave white, buy a bottle (or several) to try the next time you’re at the store. And if you’re planning a trip to Italy or happen to live nearby, the wine regions around Verona are fabulous spots to go wine tasting, even if you haven’t planned anything in advance.

Happy tasting!

Lana

Any questions you still have about wine tasting in Valpolicella and Soave? Other favorite wineries you think belong on this list? Hit me up with any questions or intel you have about the region and its wines in the ‘Comments’ below.

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11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice

November 15, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

If you’ve never been to Venice, it’s hard to envision what it would mean to have a city built on a series of islands connected by canals and waterways. No motorized vehicles are allowed, which means that some everyday things you take for granted look just a bit different here:

Ambulance

Building Entrance

Construction Site

Delivery Vehicle

Metro

Metro Stops

Parking Spot

Police Patrol

Taxi

What other things did you notice were different in Venice?

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10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

November 17, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Every time I’m in Venice, I feel like I am seeing visitors who arrive unprepared. Situated on an archipelago of many nearby islands with canals and waterways in between, Venice is a different kind of city than the ones you’re used to back home. Here are my Commandments for Visiting Venice, to make the most of your time in the city:

Get ready to climb some bridges. Yes, you know that Venice is a city of islands, but you may not have thought about what logically follows – there are a ton of bridges connecting the various parts of the city. A 10-minute walk could easily involve 5 bridges to cross. And since all of the waterways have active boat traffic, the bridges typically involve a series of steps up one side and then down the other to allow enough room underneath for the boats to pass.
Leave your wheelie bags at home. If you formed a mental picture of how many stairs you’ll be climbing up and down as you traverse Venice’s many bridges, you’ll understand my strong recommendation that you leave your wheeled luggage at home. Plus, when there’s not a bridge to cross, the streets tend to be cobblestone, which is not fun for you – or for your bag. Although rumors a few years back of a ban on wheeled suitcases are not true, it’s still wise to do without.TIP! If you must bring large luggage on wheels to Venice, stay somewhere that is a short walk or direct vaporetto (public transit boat) ride away. Even the hotels just opposite the train station involve crossing one of the taller bridges, so if you must bring a wheelie bag, stick to the same side of the train station or boat stop for your accommodation.
Getting anywhere will take at least twice as long as you expect, especially on foot. People walk slowly in Venice, and many “streets” are just narrow passageways with no room to pass. There is not always a bridge where you’d like one, especially across the Grand Canal. It is also hard to navigate around Venice, so you may end up down a dead-end street or try to walk along the water’s edge only to discover that the path ends abruptly and you’ll need extra time to backtrack to your route.
Keep an eye on the signs. I remember while preparing for my first trip to Venice that one of the guidebooks suggested wandering to Saint Mark’s Square as a recommended activity. Then when I arrived, there were large signs everywhere I turned saying “Per S. Marco” with an arrow pointing the way. While this makes it harder to “wander,” these signs are your friends when it comes to navigating! Nothing will slow you down more than every minute or two stopping foot traffic to check your phone or try to make sense of a paper map. It will speed up your walking time immensely if you know which way you’re headed and use the signs to guide you.TIP! Even if you’re going somewhere else, know which of the places on the typical street signs are in the same direction you’re trying to go. The most common signs will be for: S. Marco (Saint Mark’s Square), Rialto (the Rialto bridge), Accademia (art museum, but *also* indicates the location of the other main pedestrian bridge across the Grand Canal besides by the train station), Ferrovia (the train station), & Piazzale Roma (the bus station).
TIP! The signs don’t appear every block, but once they indicate a direction, keep walking that way (including over bridges) until you see the next sign.
Explore areas off the beaten path. No, I don’t mean the famous islands when I say this. The main islands that form Venice have plenty of neighborhoods away from the most popular tourist attractions, and this is a great way to get a feel for the city and its people.
That said, visit at least one island away from the main section of Venice. Lido, Giudecca, and Murano are the closest islands, while Burano and others are a longer boat ride away. Not only is it great to get a view of the main section of Venice from the water, each island has its own flavor that will give you a fuller picture of the city overall. And some islands are known for their local crafts (like Murano for blown glass and Burano for lace and its colored houses) that you can explore through various museums and shops when you visit.
Take a boat ride. Besides walking, the most budget-friendly (and fastest) way to get around Venice is often the vaporetto, which is the pubic transit boat. An individual ride is pricey, but the single-day and several-day passes are good value – decide which one is right for you before you arrive.Many people also come to Venice with the romantic notion of a gondola ride. If this is non-negotiable for you, by all means do it. However not only is this quite expensive, but gondolas are restricted to certain routes and there’s basically a continuous line of gondolas one after another in a bit of a traffic jam, so you are not likely to get the romantic seclusion you may have envisioned.
There are also a few alternative options. First, ride the vaporetto. You may find that the experience along the Grand Canal or traveling to one of the islands (see #6 above) gives you enough of a view of Venice from the water that you are satisfied. You can also at some point take a taxi boat, for example back to your hotel after dinner and a long day of walking around. Or, for the tour experience, while the gondolas are too tiny to go in the Grand Canal, for a similar price you can get a private boat hire (different from a taxi) that can give you a bit of a tour and private ride along Venice’s largest waterway.
Eat like the locals. There are some lovely seafood restaurants and fancy Venetian fare to sample – and you should. But if you really want to eat like a local, take in an early evening drink with some Venetian tapas, cicchetti. Never heard of them? Check out my post on the best spots in Venice to sample cicchetti.
Follow the Italian. No, I’m not suggesting that you stalk someone. But do listen for the places where you hear Italian spoken, or where the locals are congregating. This is your best indicator for a spot worth checking out.
Chat up the Venetians. Whether this is the person working at your hotel, a server at dinner, or the friendly person pouring wine with your cicchetti, you can always get the best feel for a place from the people from the city. There have been some protests lately against the tourist influx and a campaign to ban large cruise ships, so engender some goodwill by showing genuine interest in the local opinion and experience, even if it’s as simple as taking a recommendation for a local’s favorite glass of wine instead of sticking to the one name you recognize on the list. Even with the recent protests, Venetians are curious and friendly if you’re respectful of local tradition and willing to open up.
Be spontaneous and enjoy! Okay, so this is a bonus one, but also important. Most visitors to Venice have a short amount of time to spend in the city, and jam pack an itinerary filled with museum visits and timed activities. Some of the best experiences I’ve had in Venice have been ones I couldn’t have planned in advance (like an art exhibit I saw a poster for and then visited, or a side street that led straight to a stunning view of the Grand Canal), so leave time in the schedule for spontaneity – you won’t regret it!