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Scottsdale Food Guide: Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Scottsdale Food Guide: Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Disclaimer: Some (but not all) of the experiences listed here were hosted in partnership with Experience Scottsdale. Food and drink opinions are of course very opinionated – and completely my own!

As I looked into the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale – and there are a ton – one question kept crossing my mind: Why is the food in Scottsdale, Arizona so good?

The answer that came to light over a week spent in town and snippets of conversation with servers, restaurateurs, and locals is actually quite simple.

If you’re a chef in the west and want to make a name for yourself, some of the big food cities – like Las Vegas, San Francisco, and Los Angeles – are very expensive and high-risk ventures. So what do you do?

Open a restaurant in Scottsdale!

To incubate your idea, tweak your dishes and concept, and build up an even stronger proposal for making the jump to a bigger city foodie scene.

And Scottsdale just happens to be THE DESTINATION for a lot of these restaurants, as talented chefs looking to make a name for themselves feed you excellent food along the way.

Of course, not all chefs are looking to leave.

The local food movement has also been taking hold in this area, with chefs using locally sourced produce from the nearly year-round growing seasons and showcasing Arizona ingredients.

Even Arizona locals in the area – who don’t live in Phoenix or Scottsdale already – know that if they are looking for a great meal, Old Town Scottsdale is the place to go.

And one of the first things I realized looking for the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale is that Old Town Scottsdale is bigger than you think.

It doesn’t cover all parts of the city (the lovely Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows where I stayed for part of my trip is a bit outside its borders) but most of the outstanding eating establishments with the best food in Scottsdale you’ll find within its confines.

My overall impression eating and drinking my way through Old Town Scottsdale is that is does basic, simple cuisine and upscale casual really well. (I had one fancy meal and honestly wasn’t wowed by it.)

There are also a shockingly large number of delicious bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

In walking distance of Old Town Scottsdale, you can drink your way through breweries, wine tasting rooms (including an urban wine trail!), a distillery, and multiple acclaimed cocktail spots.


TripAdvisor

Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale

Organized alphabetically in each section – one for restaurants and another for bars – my picks for the best restaurants and best bars in Old Town Scottsdale are not mutually exclusive.

Of course some of these Scottsdale foodie spots had delicious coffee or cocktails to go with their incredible bites, which I’ve noted below.

The places I’d seek out just for their beverages though – from coffee bars to cocktails bars – are listed in the next section (although some of those spots also serve food).

I did a ton of research, asked plenty of locals, and used my traveler sixth sense to seek out the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale and eat as much as I could of the best food in Scottsdale during my visit.

READ MORE: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

And even then, not everywhere I ate wowed me enough to make it into this post.

You would not believe the amount of eating I did in a week – this is the short list Scottsdale Food Guide with the places that I am still dreaming about back at home!

Now for the most delicious Scottsdale bites I enjoyed over a week in town:

Citizen Public House

Citizen Public House Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Citizen Public House picked up several new restaurant accolades when it opened in 2011, like being named a “New Restaurant Not to Miss” in Esquire magazine, with some good company in Charleston’s Husk and Chicago’s Girl & the Goat.

Not only is it cozy and lively on a random weeknight several years in, the welcoming vibe is backed up by the quality of the food and drink.

In addition to some creative craft cocktails with unusual ingredients like kiwifruit simple syrup and tobacco bitters, there are also half a dozen barrel-aged cocktails (and I don’t think I’ve ever seen more than one or two on a single menu before).

Foodwise there are upscale versions of traditional dishes, including interesting combinations like pork belly pastrami, amaro meatloaf, and the pan-seared scallops I enjoyed with a cola gastrique.

While all of the food dishes were excellent, it was one of the appetizers that stole the show for me: “The Original Chopped Salad,” a dish so famous it has its own Facebook page.

Originally crafted at the now shuttered Cowboy Ciao and known then as the “Stetson Chopped Salad,” this combination of pearl couscous, Asiago cheese, arugula, pepitas, dried currants, dried corn, smoked salmon, and a buttermilk dressing was shockingly good and quite memorable, with so many layers of flavor and textures combining to form a bite that made me swoon and feel as if I was eating the best salad I’ve had in my life. And I’m not even a salad person!

There’s a reason this chopped salad has a following. I’d go back to Citizen Public House anyway, but I’d *rush* to go back for this dish.

 

 
 
 
 
 
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Diego Pops

Diego Pops Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
That is the bicycle that I rode here – one of the many you can borrow for free when you stay at The Bespoke Inn!

The tacos at this Mexican restaurant definitely hit the spot, although were not as memorable for me as the appetizers and drinks.

I’d come back in a heartbeat though for either of the appetizers I sampled.

First, they do a version of Grilled Street corn that is topped with the more common toppings of cotija cheese and lime, then pushed from good to an all out umami-bomb by the addition of crushed flamin’ hot cheetos, which provided just the right amount of crunch and MSG-addictiveness.

Grilled street corn with cotija cheese and crushed Cheetos at Diego Pops Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Of course, the corn was not to be outdone by what is possibly the signature dish – the Brussels sprout nachos.

I hated brussel sprouts as a kid and love them as an adult, and this version has nachos (yum), topped with brussel sprouts (I’m already sold), and then pushed over to top by a fried egg that makes this feel incredibly indulgent – even as you eat your veggies.

Brussel sprout nachos at Diego Pops Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

The incredible food spread was then washed down with some excellent cocktails.

In my case, the prickly pear margarita which was just the right amount of tart and sweet. Between the distinctive flavor and familiar bright pink hue, I felt transported back to my travels in Malta, where prickly pear grows on the side of the road with abandon.

There are also sno-cone margaritas (!!) that I hear are more sweet, and come in watermelon lime and mango habanero flavors.

READ MORE: Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta

Prickly pear margarita at Diego Pops Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Farm & Craft | food + affection + community

Farm and Craft Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Any place that serves breakfast until 3pm is my kind of place.

While all of the dishes sounds simple enough (and quite healthy), the ingredients are so fresh that it really delivers on flavor and you forget it’s supposed to be good for you.

I ordered the innocuous sounding breakfast sandwich with fried egg, avocado, cheddar, and chicken sausage on a flax whole wheat bun.

Farm and Craft Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Anytime I read the words flax or whole wheat, I usually high-tail it in the opposite direction, but I didn’t even remember what was in the bun because the flavors were so buttery and unctuous as I slowly savored each bite.

I enjoyed it with the equally good house-made lavender lemonade, and there are plenty of other fruity concoctions as well as cocktails, wine, and beer.

Farm and Craft Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

FnB

While the accolades of this restaurant are too numerous to mention, the recent naming of FnB’s chef Charleen Badman as “2019 Best Chef – Southwest” by the James Beard Foundation is notable as she is the first Arizona chef to win in over a decade.

Known as the “veggie whisperer,” Badman delivers on the promise by highlighting some of the freshest produce from Arizona’s many growing seasons.

FnB Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Yes, the menu is vegetable-forward but dishes with fish and meat are just as delicious.

Standouts from the vast spread I enjoyed on my recent visit included a citrus-cured salmon with buttermilk, cucumber, and flower petals and a simple dish of local fresh apricots with ricotta, almonds, and balsamic honey.

local fresh apricots with ricotta, almonds, and balsamic honey at FnB Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re having trouble getting a dinner reservation in the wake of the James Beard award win, head next door to FnBar, where you can also indulge in the full dinner menu from 5pm on.

FnB Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Rehab Burger Therapy

Rehab Burger Therapy Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

The burgers at Rehab Burger Therapy have been named the best burger in Arizona many times over – a well-deserved accolade, by the way – but it is really the whole experience that made this a standout spot.

From the décor to amazingly friendly service from enthusiastic, passionate server Salyna to all of the amazing food combinations that make its way into every burger they serve.

In addition to the creative burger concoctions, you can also choose your burger size (small for me), bun type (I got the pretzel bun), side dish (I got sweet potato tots), and rehab sauce of choice (garlic sriracha aioli for me).

Rehab Burger Therapy Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

On Salyna’s recommendation, I ordered the Spicy Mac n’ Cheese burger that also was my favorite, and overflowing with the comfort of mac n’cheese while still delivering strong flavors from the sauce and burger itself.

As part of a food-curious group, I also got to sample several of the other burgers, with the poblano being my second-favorite for the intense flavor of the poblano pepper that was great paired with the beef.

In addition to our main burgers, our group also ordered the Elvis burger, which has been their best seller for 7 years, and combines some of the The King’s favorite flavors, with the burger coming on a chocolate chip banana bun with peanut butter, chocolate bacon, and caramelized bananas. Yes, it is a savory burger that also involves PB, but it’s not as weird as you might think.

Sweet Dee’s Bakeshop

Sweet Dee's Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona DSC01822

Don’t get me wrong, the toasted marshmallow latte was divine, but this bakeshop is squarely in my food category for all of its amazing traditional baked goods and twists on some classics.

I was fortunate to visit the week of Sweet Dee’s first birthday celebration, and got to enjoy a host of birthday-themed treats, including mini cupcakes and the over-the-top birthday cake doughnut.

Doughnut at Sweet Dee's Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Yes, they took birthday cake THEN battered and fried it into a doughnut!

Sweet Dee's Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

While I was busy indulging my sweet tooth, I heard about their savory doughnut.

Basically it is an eggs benedict in doughnut form! Inside the doughnut is a poached egg, Canadian bacon, and house hollandaise.

While I didn’t have enough of an appetite to justify ordering the savory doughnut too (although I did consider it!) between the incredibly baked items I did enjoy and the incredibly friendly staff, this spot is top of my foodie list for my next trip to Old Town Scottsdale.

The Mission Old Town

The Mission Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
Photo by Rebecca of Rebecca and the World

They say that both food and service are important to a restaurant experience, but if you only get one, good service is the quality that gets you returning.

I’m happy to report that in the case of The Mission Old Town – like fellow restaurant The Fat Ox listed below – they delivered both excellent food and outstanding service.

It’s not often that when I go wandering in search of the ladies room, that there is someone who immediately spots me and walks me all the way to the door to ensure I find it.

It was the little touches that elevated my service experience at The Mission from great to exceptional.

In addition to the wonderful service throughout the meal, the food was delicious, which is the part that landed this spot on my list of best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale.

Tableside guacamole at The Mission Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

As for the food the most memorable bites for me were the excellently-executed table-side guacamole and the grilled street corn with a tangy, spicy sauce that was addictive.

The drinks were also incredible, and The Mission treated our group to small tastes of several of their best ones.

The Mission Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, ArizonaAvocado margarita at The Mission Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

The House Specialty called “The Missionary” was a perfect – and colorful – mix of their house margarita and red sangria. There was my full drink, the shockingly creamy avocado margarita, which I’ve never seen or had before and thoroughly enjoyed. Then at the end of the meal, a creamy dessert cocktail came along with churros and dipping sauce, which was a perfect end to a stellar Scottsdale food experience.

Churro at The Mission Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Zuzu Restaurant at Hotel Valley Ho

I don’t usually frequent restaurants at hotels other than where I’m staying, but there were a few good reasons to seek out Zuzu Restaurant anyway.

This spot wasn’t on my list for savory dishes, but I am so glad that the timing worked out to meet fellow travel blogger Alley for brunch as well as dessert at Zuzu.

I ordered what sounded like the most typical local breakfast dish, called planks and eggs, with sweet potato “planks,” pulled short ribs, a fried egg, cotija cheese, lime crema, and crispy fried tortilla strips.

To my surprise, the dish also came with a soft flour tortilla as a side too, which might have been the best flour tortilla I’ve *ever* had.

It was clearly made with love and had such great flavor even though it was basically plain bread.

Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

But the original draw to this spot was the dessert that beyond lived up to its name – The “Show Stopper” Shake.

Even though I had seen pictures online before I arrived, this shake is a whole lot more than a milkshake and is even bigger in person than I expected.

The flavor combinations change monthly, and I was lucky enough to be there for a Hawaiian-themed shake shortly after my Hawaii travels. Sure, there was a milkshake, but mine was also topped with a pineapple upside down cake, passion fruit tart, and orange creamsicle – plus a side of chopped fruit, coconut macaroon, and orange gelatin slices.

Definitely order this giant and fun concoction with a friend . . . or several!

Show Stopper shake at Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Show Stopper shake at Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
Photo Credit: Alley of Travel Tribe Guides
Show Stopper shake at Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Showstopper Shake Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
Photo Credit: Alley of Travel Tribe Guides

While the service was sadly just mediocre, the food was so good that it was a fabulous final food experience to end my time in Scottsdale.


TripAdvisor

Best Bars in Old Town Scottsdale

The word “bar” can mean lots of things. This round-up shares my picks for the top bars in Old Town Scottsdale, from coffee bars to brewery bars to wine bars to cocktail bars.

So whatever your drinking preferences, there’s something for you below:

Cartel Coffee Lab

Cartel Coffee Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Cartel had the best coffee I enjoyed in my week in Old Town Scottsdale. They take their coffee quite seriously, and my cortado had rich coffee flavor and aroma with a super smooth milky topping that was great for refueling right in the heart of town.

While I was on my way to lunch when I popped in and was unable to linger, the space was inviting with long tables perfect for catching up with a friend or hunkering down to get some work done.

Cartel Coffee Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Goldwater Brewing Co.

Beer flight at Goldwater Brewing Company Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

This is my kind of family business.

For a craft brewery, there is a huge available selection of in-house brews to order at the bar. And if you’re indecisive (or just enjoy trying a lot of different beers) like me, you can order any 4 beers as a flight.

Goldwater Brewing Company Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

The iconic beer here is the Desert Rose cactus ale, made with prickly pear from local cacti.

While sold out as you can see on the menu sheet, our server Parker was kind enough to give us an impromptu tour of the operation and a sample of the next batch of Desert Rose, which while not quite ready yet, is already delicious.

Goldwater Brewing Company Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
Impromptu brewery tour with Parker of Goldwater Brewing Company, Kay of Jetfarer, Jennifer of National Park Obsessed, Theresa of The Local Tourist, and Janet of Go! Learn Things

LDV Winery

LDV Winery Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

While I visited all 4 winery tasting rooms that are on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, LDV (Lawrence Dunham Vineyards) Winery tasting room was my definite favorite.

And the only one that made my list of top bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

Like the other wine trail spots, LDV Winery has its actual vineyards a several hour drive away in the Wilcox area of Arizona, with a similar elevation to Argentina. Especially since was my first wine tasting stop in Old Town Scottsdale, I was fortunate to have Tasting Room Manager Sherylann as an excellent guide to their history and selections.

LDV Winery Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

My top sips were some of the red wines – a 2013 Grenache (which I bought) and both the 2013 and 2014 Petite Syrah, even though the two vintages tasted a bit different from one another.

Another reason to be sure to stop in – delicious regular and infused local olive oils and vinegars that are available for sale, and also to taste!

Olive oils and vinegars at LDV Winery Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

Merkin Vineyards Old Town Scottsdale

Merkin Winery Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

I knew about the Dave Matthews and Donald Trump wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia, but I had no idea that Maynard James (MJ) Keenan – most famous as the lead singer for bands Tool and A Perfect Circle – was another celebrity winemaker.

Merkin Vineyards has only had a presence in Old Town Scottsdale since March of 2019, and unlike the four wineries on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, this spot is more of a wine bar than a tasting room.

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia

Apparently MJ Keenan only recently discovered that he is descended from Northern Italian winemakers, and is embracing that heritage as he grows mostly Italian (and Spanish and French) grape varietals.

As part of a hosted event, I was lucky enough to share sips with three fellow travel bloggers. So after a couple of rounds, we had basically tried most of the available selections!

Merkin Winery Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

My top sips were the bold red wines – including the Garnacha and Tempranillo – along with some of the blends.

There were also some really delicious platters of food, with simple ingredients packing huge flavor in true Italian style.

Food at Merkin Winery Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

It is both for the wine and incredibly flavorful dishes available that Merkin Vineyards was one of my favorite bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While Merkin Vineyards does not officially offer wine flights, you can create your own wine tasting if you go at less crowded times on weekdays before 5pm.

This wine bar in Old Town Scottsdale is also a family affair, with Maynard’s dad’s farm growing much of the produce for the simple and delectable bites available.

All enjoyed to one of Maynard’s eight personally curated music playlists for the venue – featuring, of course, lots of tracks from Tool.

Second Story

Located on the Second Story of a building in the heart of Old Town, this is one of the bars in Old Town Scottsdale that hits the spots at the end of the night.

I don’t usually order off-menu for my first cocktail at a new place, but I was feeling feisty and – as is the sign of a great bar – my relatively vague instructions led to a delicious ginger whiskey sour.

Off menu drink order on receipt from Second Story Old Town Scottsdale

I liked the balance of spicy and smooth so much that I sipped especially slowly to make it last.

Ginger whiskey sour at Second Story Old Town Scottsdale

Second Story also has quite an elegant feel when you walk inside, which I wasn’t expecting.

Elegant space at Second Story Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

The other part I did not realize until I went is that it is basically a whiskey- and bourbon-centric bar, with over 300 whiskeys on premises.

They also have a food menu, with full dinner options as well as happy hour bites.


TripAdvisor

One Place Outside of Old Town Scottsdale Worth the Trek

Trek is a bit of an exaggeration as this spot is a mere 2 miles from the waterfront in Old Town Scottsdale, and will take less than 10 minutes in a car and under $10 by ride share if you don’t have a vehicle of your own.

It’s not the only place I ate at outside of Old Town, but it’s the only one I’d go back to.

The Fat Ox

I was still feeling a bit hungry after one of the evening events for Bloghouse Scottsdale (I have a big appetite, what can I say?) and this restaurant was close to where I was staying at the Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows.

You can tell a lot about a restaurant based on how they greet a solo female diner, and at The Fat Ox it was done just the right way – business as usual.

The hosts at the stand were gracious and welcoming, and the whole restaurant was buzzing with lively conversation, so I happily strolled to one of the few empty spots at the bar.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

After 3 years of living in Italy, I am always a bit skeptical of going to an Italian restaurant in the US, but I was pleasantly surprised at how good the food was.

I ordered the Malloreddus Lamb Verde, a seasonal fresh pasta dish with a perfect balance of flavors and textures between the lamb, olives, pecorino cheese, mint, and chopped almonds .

Malloreddus Lamb Verde, a seasonal fresh pasta dish with a perfect balance of flavors and textures between the lamb, olives, pecorino cheese, mint, and chopped almonds

Even though the panna cotta was a little on the sweet side for me overall, the fruity foam and crunch with the garnish on top made for a delicious bite as well.

Panna cotta with fruit foam and a crumble

Bartender Brian provided excellent service and conversation (no, he didn’t know I was a travel blogger until the end of the meal) and he perfectly crafted the fun-named “Sage Against the Machine” cocktail for me, with tequila, sage-infused agave, and a lambrusco (Italian sparkling red wine) float that I enjoyed with my dishes.

Even if you’re staying in Old Town Scottsdale, which is a few miles away, it is definitely worth the trip to enjoy a meal here.

And be sure that whenever you plan your trip to Scottsdale, come hungry!

Looking to book a room in Scottsdale? Check out these great spots!

Happy Travels! Lana

Are there any questions about the Scottsdale food scene that I haven’t answered yet? What spots on this Scottsdale Food Guide are your favorites? Any other recommendations of restaurants or bars I should try on my next visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona Best Bites Where to Eat for TravelSavvyGal website    Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona for TravelSavvyGal website

Visiting the Site of the Largest Unsolved Art Heist: Boston’s Gardner Museum

Visiting the Site of the Largest Unsolved Art Heist: Boston’s Gardner Museum

This Saturday marks the 27th anniversary of the largest unsolved art heist, which took place on March 18, 1990 at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston, Massachusetts. I can’t help but be swept up in a great story, and the details behind this art theft smack of any literary thriller that’s ever consumed you. That’s in fact how I first learned about it – from reading one of the many books that has been published in the nearly three decades since the theft.

The Heist

The art heist at the Gardner is unusual in several respects. Of the 13 works of art that were stolen, they were not all the most valuable pieces of art at the museum, although their cumulative value tops $500 million. It is even questionable what kind of art expertise the thieves possessed, as some of the paintings were carelessly slashed from their frames. The haul is also a mix – some famous paintings (including Rembrandt’s only seascape), sketches by Degas, and even the eagle from the top of a flagpole. The Gardner Museum has a page on its website with the details of the theft for the perennially curious, including a list of all of the missing artwork and even a virtual tour. And who to contact if you have any tips 😉

What made the heist so successful? For one, the thieves posed as police officers, under the guise of replying to a previous call at the museum, a clever way to establish authority. Is is that the security guards on duty did not follow protocol? The men posing as officers were allowed entry to the secure area, and then were able to lure both guards away from their post and the only alarm button. The guards were restrained, and the theft was only first discovered when the morning security guards arrived to start their shift, giving the thieves ample time to make their escape.

In the years since the theft, detectives believe they have come close to the artwork, with rumors leading them to many places from Philadelphia to Miami to Corsica, a French island in the Mediterranean. Not a single piece of art has been recovered yet, which is unusual for a heist of this size and also for the amount of time that has elapsed since the artwork went missing. The reward leading to the stolen works has been increased over time and now stands at $5 million, although it’s unclear whether investigators are actually any closer than before to solving this mystery as the next anniversary looms.

The Museum

Visiting the Gardner Museum was not my reason for visiting Boston, but was an outing I just could not resist. And while admittedly the art heist was the impetus for going to the museum, there was a world of wonder and whimsy I discovered there that make the museum worth a visit, regardless of whether the artwork is recovered someday.

Isabella Stewart Gardner was a bit of an eccentric heiress who founded the museum after her husband’s death in the late 1800s. One insight into her playful personality is the structure for discounted or free admission to the museum that persists to this day. There are of course some of the typical discounts, for students and teachers and museum pass holders.

So what are some of the less typical ways to get discounted or free admission?

  • If you’re named Isabella, there is lifetime free admission (once you register on their site here).
  • Admission is free on your birthday.
  • There is a discount for wearing paraphernalia of the local baseball team, the Boston Red Sox.

Unfortunately I didn’t qualify for any of these (and I’m a lifelong New York Yankees fan, division rivals of the Red Sox), but if you’re named Isabella or it happens to be your birthday, you’re in luck!

In any case, once you have a ticket in hand you proceed to the courtyard, an incredible space that really sets the tone for the rest of the museum. It feels like you’ve stepped into the interior of a European villa, with the columns, greenery, and large central mosaic. Almost everyone, including me, stopped in their tracks to take in this peaceful space. Some stayed and lingered on the bench surrounding the garden space, while others popped in and out of the surrounding rooms, returning for a few moments to appreciate the garden in between. As you enter the museum rooms, all of which are clustered around the central courtyard, the view outside morphs ever so slightly, especially on the higher floors. And for me, as I entered each new space, my eye was initially drawn in the direction of the courtyard, observing the new perspective and angle of the sunlight. This experience was certainly part of the museum’s design, and provides continuity and a sense of space throughout.

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Isabella also had a clear vision for how she wanted the art to be displayed for the public inside the rooms, from the floor coverings to the ceiling to the furniture to the artwork. She took a holistic view on the curation of the pieces and how they were displayed in the various rooms and levels of the museum. When you enter each space, it has a distinct feel. Some are crowded, while others are sparse. Some are dark-paneled and regal, while others have sunlight streaming in and have a light, airy, open feel about them.

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Isabella Stewart Gardner collected much of the art during her international travels, hence the European feel of many of the spaces. The building housing the museum was commissioned to be in the style of a famous Venetian palazzo – the style of buildings typical along the Grand Canal of Venice, Italy. Isabella even hand-arranged the Spanish tiles in one of the open-air spaces off the courtyard, and her direct hand in the museum is apparent throughout. She saved her correspondence with famous artists and composers of the day, and there’s even a case featuring letters from some of the first American presidents that she acquired over the years. In fact, Gardner was so particular that the permanent exhibition cannot be significantly altered, a provision that has made the aftermath of the heist particularly visible because no other artwork can be put in place of the pieces that were stolen.

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Another highlight of the museum for me was the temporary exhibit currently on display until September called Listen Hear: The Art of Sound. Since the permanent exhibit can’t really be changed per Isabella Stewart Gardner’s explicit wishes, including special exhibits is a wonderful way to enhance the art already on display and be able to interact with it in new ways. Some of the sound exhibits are meant to align with the artwork in certain rooms, or to represent specific pieces that were stolen, like Vermeer’s The Concert. In the courtyard, one of the exhibits emits sounds meant to imitate the insects that are absent from the garden, providing the background noise that is normally missing. In another ground floor space is an intricate series of small sculpted glass orbs, some of which have been filled with different colored liquids, from tea to olive oil. Embedded in the sculpture are sensors, and as you walk underneath the sculpture or wave your hand nearby, cascading sounds are emitted. I was a bit mesmerized by this one, and spent quite a bit of time staring and playing.

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You can’t help but have fun visiting the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, and from everything I’ve learned about the woman, that is exactly what Isabella always hoped for.

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Have you visited the Gardner Museum? What part of the experience stands out for you?

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Boston's Gardner Museum - Site of the Largest Unsolved Art Heist USA

How the US Election Result Helped Me to Connect My 2 Passions

How the US Election Result Helped Me to Connect My 2 Passions

Where are you from?” The typical first question of cab drivers transporting tourists, pretty much anywhere in the world.

I’m American,” I reflexively replied.

While I know some Americans try to always disguise their nationality while they’re traveling, that’s never been me. I realize that sometimes there are bad stereotypes out there about American travelers, but I specifically mention that I’m American for that reason – to combat stereotypes. Nothing is a bigger compliment than being told by a foreigner that “you don’t seem like an American.” It basically means that they expected bad behavior, and instead you were gracious and unassuming.

The only place I had even considered temporarily adopting a non-American nationality was traveling in Vietnam in 2012. I had thought that locals might have prejudices or dislike Americans because of the Vietnam War, so started off telling people I was Australian (I figured they wouldn’t be able to distinguish between different accents speaking English, plus I *was* living in Perth at the time). In the end though, it turned out that none of the Vietnamese people I met harbored resentment against American tourists. So whenever I’m asked about my nationality, answering that I’m American doesn’t take any conscious thought.

Of course, on this particular cab ride, it was the next question that caught me completely off guard. “Donald Trump, new President?”

For Election Day this past November, I was in Bali, Indonesia. It was a week that I had set aside during my recent travels to fall off the grid. Not because of the US election, but simply as a week bridging the time between staying with friends in Singapore and Perth, Australia. I did not post on the travel blog or any of my social media accounts about where I was. I left my “nice” camera behind every time I went around exploring. And I was evasive when people asked which countries I’d be visiting on my 2-month trip, always excluding Indonesia.

Ubud is a pretty simple town in central Bali, where roosters crowing will wake you up at dawn no matter where or how fancy your accommodations. I had booked a car to take me to the airport at a nondescript, family-run stand around the corner from my impossibly cheap homestay. So when my taxi driver (the husband of the family) displayed a working knowledge of the American election result from three days prior, asking me about our new President-Elect by name, I was taken aback.

This was my first indication of the worldwide impact and awareness of the US election results – that everyone from wealthy intellectuals to the proverbial (and literal) man on the street in remote areas would know about the election, and be eager to ask any American in sight all about it. And like many Americans, foreigners were equally baffled about the election’s outcome, and couldn’t help but pepper me with questions as they tried to make sense of what happened.

So what does this all have to do with me and my passions?

I recently read Brené Brown’s The Gifts of Imperfection, in which she discusses the concept of a “slash career,” put forth by Marci Alboher. Essentially, the idea behind it is that people don’t need to limit themselves to a single professional identity, or even a single field. Instead, it’s fine to be a Doctor/Artist or Engineer/Musician (notice the slashes?), identifying two distinct passions or identities and taking on them both simultaneously without having to pick a single career or chosen pursuit.

This really was a moment of epiphany for me. I started the Travel Savvy Gal blog at a point in time when I was not working a regular job. People still ask me if my plan is to become a Blogger full-time. “Oh no,” I say, “blogging is a hobby, professionally I am still an Educator.” But this idea of a “slash career” meant that I didn’t have to choose, I could be both! From that moment on, I started thinking of myself as an Educator and a Travel Blogger, two pursuits I considered as disparate as being a Doctor and an Artist.

It’s great,” I thought, because my education background is teaching high school mathematics so the “Educator” title would cover the logical, rational, mathematical side of my brain and the “Travel Blogger” title would be my completely different, creative pursuit in writing and communication. Two completely different areas where I find personal fulfillment and two different pursuits tapping into totally different parts of my brain.

This world view held for months, and it was only after the US election that the two ideas, my two passions that I had considered so completely separate, began to come together in my mind.

After Donald Trump became the US President-Elect, the questions swirled…

How could this happen?

How could America elect someone with no experience in elected office?

How could the same country who *re-elected* America’s 1st black President four years ago now elect someone who had spoken out against many minority groups?

Why did so many Americans fear the “other”?

And perhaps most importantly,

What needs to happen in the coming four years so that Americans support a candidate in the next presidential election who favors openness, international engagement, and welcoming refugees and immigrants?

Of course, I grappled with these questions and thought extensively about what I thought would be the “solution” to counter America’s isolationism and the desire many Americans felt to withdraw from the world stage and focus solely on issues at home instead.

What could convince Americans to be more open to strangers and foreigners?

What would make Americans believe that most refugees were simple people in a rough situation they did not create, and did not pose a security threat?

What would need to happen so that Americans wanted to engage with and not withdraw from the international community?

And honor our obligations to the international community?

After much pondering, the two answers I came upon: Travel & Education.

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Travel.

Traveling of course can range from being sequestered in an all-inclusive resort and never setting foot outside to being completely immersed in the villages and with the people of a foreign country. Most of my travel falls into the latter category, and it is this kind of travel I’m talking about. Even if it’s minimal contact on a single-day jaunt away from the resort or off of a cruise ship, to me travel means both contact with locals and exposure to a different culture and a different way of doing things. And eye-opening travel can also be within your home country, to another state or region that does things a bit differently.

If you’ve never left the familiar comforts of home, you’ll never realize how much you take for granted. All of those things you simply think are universal or fixed in place, but it is only exposure to another place or another culture that allows you to see a different approach. For me, travel has allowed me to see that their can be two approaches to a situation, both different, yet both equally valid. There can be multiple right ways to do something, it all depends on your perspective. It is that open-minded thinking that I believe can prevent politics from becoming emotionally-charged and hugely divisive, and in many ways a type of thinking that is enhanced by travel.

Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” – Mark Twain

On the road, you’ll often meet people of other nationalities, economic brackets, professions, and walks of life. Being outside of your normal routine, you’re more likely to cross paths with someone you wouldn’t have encountered back at home, even if it is someone of the same nationality. Through these interactions with someone who on the surface is quite different from you, that is where the commonality of the human condition emerges. Some of the most impoverished people I’ve met in my travels have the same basic concerns as people everywhere: how to best take care of their families and creating a better future for their children. These first-hand interactions that come from travel really make it so clear that people around the world have more in common than is different.

Welcome Sign

Education.

Sure, you say, travel is great, but not everyone has the ability or financial means to travel. While I would dispute the idea that travel is outside of the reach of many people, that is a conversation for another day. Among both the frequent travelers and those who never stray outside of a short distance from home, I know that education can teach different approaches and ways of thinking about the world, just as travel does.

People often say to me that it must be so easy being a math teacher and grading papers because there is only one right answer to a math problem. But that is not the case at all! Even for a problem that has a single number as an answer, there are so many different possible approaches that assignments and exams can be quite difficult to grade. And of course the real mathematical analysis comes into play when you ask a student to come up with multiple, valid ways to solve a single math problem. That is where the real expansive thinking comes in, brainstorming multiple approaches that can all be simultaneously correct.

I see education as a “solution” to isolationism because it has the capacity to expose people to a diversity of ideas and approaches, in mathematics and of course all the other subjects, too. Good education teaches critical thinking and provides students with the skills to compete in a global economy rather than fear it. And education inspires students to take the initiative to do research and be responsible for their own learning, drawing their own conclusions and not just accepting what others say at face value.

Connecting the Two?

Interestingly, I am not alone when it comes to having both travel and education as a passion. There are a ton of other travel bloggers out there who are also educators, something I was surprised to discover (but really shouldn’t have been). Sure, you say, of course teachers travel a lot because they get summers off. However, I don’t think it is just because of the vacation time – although many teachers certainly use that to their advantage – but also because of that common drive we teachers have to discover and explore the world around us. And just because teachers travel a lot would not necessarily mean that they also become travel bloggers in droves, although that too is what seems to have happened.

If you are a teacher, you not only have an intellectual curiosity about the world around you, but you seek to share your experiences and knowledge with others: your students. That is where the crossover between academic and professor occurs, and also the crossover between avid traveler and travel blogger – not just traveling but also sharing the resulting expertise and perspective with the world.

Of course, there are ways to simultaneously unite travel and education, instead of just keeping them as parallel yet related passions, and there are travel bloggers out there doing just that. As for me, at this point I don’t know if I’ll integrate my two passions of travel and education or keep them as separate pursuits, but certainly they are not nearly as different as I originally thought.

Do you have multiple passions or careers that you’ve chosen to pursue? How do you reconcile these different aspects of who you are? I’ve obviously been grappling with these issues, so help me out here =) Share your strategies (and ongoing struggles) in the Comments below!

How the US Election Result Helped Me Connect My 2 Passions

How to Survive Missing Your Airline Connection

How to Survive Missing Your Airline Connection

It almost never snows in Milan. In three years of living there, I saw it snow for at most a half hour at a time – usually rain that turned into snow briefly, and then back to rain. Snowfall is typically light or non-existent each winter because most of the cold fronts and snow get trapped in the Alps not far outside of the city. The biggest accumulation I ever saw was a light dusting that lasted just long enough for me (in a brief moment of inspiration) go for a run in Sempione Park.

So last month as I was preparing for my repatriation trip to the United States, a.k.a. moving back “home,” I had a lot of mixed thoughts and emotions about the trip – but none that included a snow-related delay for my flight! I didn’t even check the weather before heading to the airport, since winter in Milan tends to hover just above freezing pretty much every day. (Although I found out later that snow was not in the forecast, so checking the weather wouldn’t have helped anyway.)

Only when I was at the airport all checked in and cleared through customs did I approach the departure gate. Which is when I first glanced outside and was quite surprised to see a sheet of white on the other side of the window. Even then I thought that it was most likely hail, and it was only when I walked closer to the glass did I realize it was snowing. And not just flurries, it was driving snow coming down hard and fast. Of course, since the first leg of my flight was the relatively short hop from Milan to London, we didn’t even have a jetbridge to stroll onto the airplane directly, but ended up boarding by taking a bus to the plane and then ascending on foot.

Getting off the shuttle bus and crossing the tarmac on foot to board the plane, I (along with all of the Milanesi) were consumed by the joy of the snowfall. Smartphones popped into everyone’s hands, with pretty much all the passengers snapping shots of the snow, the airport and the snow, and selfies boarding the plane as it’s snowing. It was such an unusual event, everyone wanted to capture it, and we passengers were all smiles as we boarded.

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It was in the moment after I took my seat that the panic and dread about my connecting flight started to set in. I had an already tight connection of barely over an hour at London Heathrow, one of the largest airports in the world. I wasted no time and flagged over the flight attendant nearly immediately. He tried to reassure me that we’d likely make up time in the air and it shouldn’t be that bad. Then the captain comes on and she starts talking about the growing line to get the plane de-iced and then the likely takeoff delays after that process. Her ballpark estimate of our delay time is a modest 20 minutes. Another flight attendant stops by and she lets me know that my outbound flight should be leaving from the same terminal where we’ll be arriving, and that as long as I clear the transfer desk 35 minutes in advance, all should be well.

But of course de-icing and even the line to start the process takes longer than expected. Then we are far back in the line of planes waiting to leave. By the time we take off, it’s almost an hour after our original departure time. Although we are supposed to make up some of that time in the air, for an unknown reasons we slow down to cross Swiss air space. We land at Heathrow nearly an hour late, so just minutes before my next flight is expected to leave. I head briskly to the transfer desk anyway and find a person who brings me to the front of the line, but when my boarding pass is scanned an unpleasant beep sounds, indicating that I am too late for the electronic gate to let me through.

At a smaller airport, or even some of the larger US ones where I’ve had tight connections before, they might hold the plane for you. Or there could be a cascade of delays, allowing you time to catch the continuing flight. At Heathrow, everything is automated and there is no way for the staff to override the built-in time limits. When my boarding pass for the transfer is rejected by the scanner, there is nothing left to try – I take a deep breath and head straight for the re-booking line.

What to Expect When You Miss Your Connection
The first thing to expect when you miss a flight, especially at a big airport like London’s Heathrow, is . . . waiting. The rush of trying to catch your flight and all of the adrenaline that is pumping through your system comes to a screeching halt as you get in line behind the other delayed and frustrated travelers in the re-booking line. I was fortunate to have been traveling in Business class (this is what happens when it’s a company-booked flight), so there was a separate re-booking line I could join. Even then, it took me nearly a half hour to reach the front of the queue and finally speak to a person.

By this time, a couple of what would have been re-booking options for me had elapsed. They could have re-routed me at that point to a far away airport in the US, but then ground transportation once I arrived would have been at my own expense to the tune of hundreds of dollars. With 3 checked bags and a carry-on, there would have been no way to take cheaper public transit options. However, staying overnight and catching the same connecting flight the following day meant that British Airways would put me up in a hotel and provide meal and transportation vouchers for free.

In the end, it made the most sense for me to simply take the flight the next day, and once that was decided it was just a matter of getting everything booked and my vouchers printed. Here’s what was involved in being put up overnight by the airline:

Phone Calls
It didn’t occur to me that I’d be able to use the airline’s phone to make an international call to the US, until the helpful staff member at the desk saw me fumbling with my Italian cell phone. Although I only made a single call, I found out later that in the European Union (EU), you are entitled to 2 phone calls or some other type of communication in the event of being re-booked (see more in the section below on the Passenger Rights).
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Hotel
I imagine that pretty much all airlines will book you at a hotel as close to the airport as possible. For me, the surprise came in that British Airways has a separate hotel for its customers traveling in Business Class. Apparently I would have ended up somewhere else if they were re-booking an Economy ticket. Either way, there seems to be particular hotels they are partnered with, and I did not get a choice about where I stayed.
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Transportation
The hotel was close to the airport, but still a bit of a drive, so the airline covered my round-trip transportation. The down side? Transportation was only covered on a specific shuttle bus, so I was subject to their schedule in both directions, and could not simply catch a ride when I was ready. Also, transportation was only covered between the airport and the hotel. When I went into downtown London to stroll around and meet a friend for dinner, that was at my own expense.
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Meal Vouchers
Since breakfast was included at the hotel, I received two meal vouchers. The first was for a “snack” and only valid at the airport. So the first thing I did after being re-booked was stay at the airport so I could get some food as I had missed lunch and was actually quite hungry at that point. My second voucher was for dinner, but again with limited validity. I could only use it at the hotel. By the point my vouchers were issued I knew it was likely I’d go into London to meet a friend for dinner, so asked if there was an alternate voucher for this. There wasn’t, so dinner ended up being at my own expense.

Luggage
This is an important one – checked luggage stays checked during the layover. So you will not have access to what’s inside your checked bags. This is one of the reasons that I’m so glad I pack my carry-on bag strategically every time I fly (see more about my essential carry-on items in the next section on How to Be Ready for Every Flight).
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Amenities Kit
You may be familiar with the amenities kit you’ll get from an airline for an overnight flight, usually with an eye mask, toothbrush, tissues, and maybe some lotion. When you are put up overnight by the airline at a hotel, it’s a slightly different collection of items. My British Airways kit contained an XL t-shirt (for the record I usually wear a small so this would have been like a dress on me), deodorant, shampoo, lotion, shaving cream, a razor, a comb, & a toothbrush with a tiny toothpaste tube. If I hadn’t been prepared, this would have been great to tide me over until the next day, but I still felt better having my own stuff. In the end, I didn’t use anything from this pack.

Immigration
I’ve even had to clear immigration for long layovers that were not delayed. Certainly in the case of a flight delay of many hours or an overnight in a different country than where you left from, you will have to be processed (plus, you’ll want to leave the airport anyway). I have Global Entry for arriving in the US, so I was not expected any new passport stamps before returning home and being able to get a new passport, as mine was almost completely full. Fortunately while the Immigration Officer made sure I wasn’t traveling anywhere else besides the UK that would require space for a stamp, he found a somewhat empty corner to place the UK stamp and let me in =)
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Passenger Rights
I wouldn’t have thought to ask for this, but the re-booking desk provided me with a copy of the Passenger Rights for the EU. Other countries have similar policies. Some of the compensation I received was specific to Europe, so be sure to request a copy of what your rights are in the country where you’ve been delayed. If a copy is not available, find it online to know what you’re entitled to get in your specific scenario.

How to Be Ready for Every Flight

Some of the reason I survived staying overnight unexpectedly in a surprise country with the greatest of ease is because I am *always* prepared for the unexpected every time I board a flight. What does this mean?

First, if you have any sort of connecting flight, be sure to book with the same airline for whole itinerary. An airline only has an obligation to help you if it one of their flights that caused you to miss the next one. Otherwise, if you are traveling on two different carriers, there is no help if you’re delayed and miss the connection. It will be your financial responsibility to sort it out.

I’ve had my luggage delayed on several occasions, this was the first time I was waylaid en route. That’s usually the contingency I’m planning for – me making it to my final destination without luggage. I’ve had my luggage delayed for anywhere from a few hours to several days, and my carry on bag is always packed with that possibility in mind.

Another general preparation tip – make sure your carry on bag makes it onto the plane with you! All of the emergency provisions you pack are only useful if you still have access to them if your luggage doesn’t make it or ends up routed to a wrong destination. To do this, I go to great lengths to make sure that the plane does not run out of overhead space before I board, requiring me to “gate check” my bag. Even it means queuing up early to board the plane.

With the “gate check” process, sometimes your bag is brought to you at the jetway to pick up and sometimes it comes out on the belt with your checked luggage (causing you to spend additional time once you arrive to retrieve it). Sometimes they tell you that your bag will come to the jetway, and you only find out at your destination that it will come out with the checked luggage instead. Again, reasons I try my best to avoid being in the situation of having to “gate check” my bag. Just in case.

Here’s what to pack in your carry-on for any “just in case” situation, whether it’s your checked bag not arriving at your destination or you needing to stay overnight unexpectedly in a strange city or country:

  • Laptop, e-reader, and other key electronics
  • Chargers for your phone & any other electronics you have with you
  • Universal plug adapter (for any international travel)
  • Basic toiletries, including toothbrush, hairbrush, & deodorant
  • Other basic items, including nail clippers, tweezers, band-aids, & a sewing kit
  • Any moisturizers or lotions, plus travel-sized shower items (for me this is shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, facewash, & body lotion) And yes, this all fits in my quart-sized bag. And then some.
  • Any medicines you might need, plus several pills of a basic pain-killer and an anti-diarrheal
  • Pajamas
  • At least 1 clean additional shirt and 1 pair of socks
  • Several clean pairs of underwear.
    Yes, even though I only bring one shirt and a pair of socks, I bring several pairs of underwear. Because other things can be dirty in a pinch if you’re delayed longer than expected (or your lost luggage takes extra time to arrive). You want your underwear to be clean.

There are a few other things that I typically have in my carry-on bag – like an umbrella – but this list is just the essentials to be sure to include for those “just in case” situations. There’s definitely space for more than this in my carry-on, with the specifics of the other contents depending on the trip.

In this particular instance, I was especially glad to have my universal adapter, as the UK is on a different plug from both Italy and the US. Without it, I wouldn’t have been able to charge my devices. And even though I got basic toiletries and a t-shirt from the airline, I was far more relaxed and comfortable having my own clothes and basics to get me through my unexpected layover in London.
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Plus, since I didn’t have to spend any time scrambling to buy clothing or toiletries or electronics, I was able to focus my time on meeting up last-minute with friends (I saw 2 different friends during my surprise layover!) and soaking up the holiday atmosphere of London, just a few days before Christmas.

Have you ever missed your connecting flight? What do you wish you had known beforehand? Share any tips I missed for how to survive a surprise overnight layover!

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Where to Eat around Times Square in NYC

Where to Eat around Times Square in NYC

If you’re planning to see a lot of Broadway theater during your time in New York – or just doing some sightseeing around Times Square – make that extra little bit of effort to ensure that you eat well in the process.  There are a ton of affordable and delicious options nearby if you know where to look.

In general, a lot of places that cater mainly to tourists will be along 7th or 8th Avenues, or along Broadway.  There are a lot of excellent dining options if you walk over to 9th Avenue or go a bit uptown or downtown from the fray.  And of course “Restaurant Row,” on 46th Street between 8th and 9th Avenues is always a good bet.  If you have the time, take a stroll and grab a bite at whatever place entices you.

TIP!  Most New York addresses, and certainly those in the Times Square vicinity, are usually on a street and listed between two avenues or on an avenue and listed between two streets.

And whether you’re a planner or not, here are some delectable options in and around Times Square:

Coffee

Okay, so after time living in both Australia and Italy, I admit it – I’m a coffee snob.  Both countries have a strong espresso culture, and I have one go-to place for coffee in the Times Square area:

Caffè Bene

1611 Broadway (corner of 49th and Broadway)

Yes, it’s a chain with several locations around the city and beyond.  However, they brew solid espresso-based drinks, and have ample seating and free WiFi, so it’s a great spot for a recharge or to pick up a coffee on the go.  Not too common around Times Square.

That said, you can get coffee at delis, street vendors and from the typical American chains all throughout Times Square if espresso drinks are not your thing.


Deli

Delis are great spots for bagels or other breakfast concoctions (omelettes, egg sandwiches, and more) made to order, and delis typically have a buffet in addition to made-to-order sandwiches for lunch and beyond.  The three options below are the Times Square area delis that I’ve enjoyed the most in my two decades of theater-going.

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Dunhill Cafe

109 W. 45th Street (between 6th and 7th)

This deli is great for their central location and seating.  It’s away from the fray and close to other deli options, so I don’t usually have trouble finding a seat, and enjoy the many breakfast and lunch options available.

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Green Apple

1625 Broadway (between 49th & 50th)

Green Apple is a bit uptown from the most central parts of Times Square, so tends to be less crowded.  And you know the food options are delicious when most of the people waiting in line with you on a weekday morning are regulars who greet the employees by name.  Most people take something to go, although occasionally I’ve taken advantage of their seating upstairs.

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Star Lite Deli

212 W. 44th Street (between 7th & 8th)

This spot does not have seating, however has quick service and a variety of options that make it worth a stop.  It’s another very central location, and the bagels are particularly good.


Street Vendors/Food Markets

Part of the energy of NYC comes from the ever-present street vendors, some that specialize only in roasted nuts or breakfast pastries, and others that resemble the single cuisine food trucks that have become trendy in the US in recent years.  And on a rainy day, or if you want to be able to sit at a table to eat, indoor food markets abound.

Food Trucks/Street Vendors

You can find street food all over Times Square (including in the central pedestrian area) but there are a few concentrations of food trucks and street vendors a bit away from the fray that are worth seeking out.  Bonus is that both spots listed below are also close to outdoor seating.

  • Bryant Park – The park spans W. 40th to 42nd Streets, between 5th and 6th There are many street vendors and food trucks that congregate there, as well as other casual eateries along the periphery of the park.  Grab a bite and enjoy it in the green surroundings for a bit of nature to counterbalance the bustle of Times Square.
  • Rockefeller Center – This is another area where you’ll find a number of street food options adjacent to one another, as well as outdoor seating to enjoy your meal. The most options I’ve seen recently have been on W. 49th Street between 5th and 6th
Food trucks by Rockefeller Center
Food trucks by Rockefeller Center

Gotham West Market

600 11th Avenue (between 44th & 45th)

This indoor market is the main one close to Times Square, and has lots of seating and a huge variety of food stalls to choose from.  Great for the solo traveller who wants to be in the middle of a bustling area or a group of people with different food preferences who all want to eat together.  From tacos to tapas to sushi to charcuterie, there is huge variety here.  The market also hosts one of my favorite ramen destinations in the city: Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop.  It’s a few avenues over from the main Times Square area, and definitely worth the walk.


Sit-Down Restaurants

I have dined and enjoyed many types of cuisines over the years in the Times Square vicinity, although the restaurants with staying power that are consistently delicious skew towards the ethnic.  The Thai restaurants in particular tend to be budget-friendly.  And all are delicious representations of the ethnic melting pot that is New York, and the delicious food that comes along with it.

Gastropub

West End

813 8th Avenue (corner of W. 49th)

This casual gastropub is a reasonably quick stop for a pre- or post-theater meal.  There is a variety of food options, including burgers and small plates, and I’ve enjoyed many tasty options over the years.

 

Korean

Danji

346 W. 52nd Street (between 8th & 9th)

It is no longer Michelin-starred, but this Korean eatery serves fabulous dishes and offers many vegetarian options.  I ate there on my most recent trip to NYC, and was wowed by each of the dishes.  I recommend reserving in advance, which you can do through their website linked above.

 

Mexican

El Centro

824 9th Avenue (corner of 54th)

I first stumbled upon El Centro due to its prominent corner location and lively atmosphere.  It offers down home Mexican cooking, covering the classic plates from tacos to quesadillas to empanadas to tamales.  A great budget choice that will fill you up and put a smile on your face.

 

Toloache

251 W. 50th Street (between Broadway and 8th)

This is my favorite Mexican restaurant in all of NYC, due to the solid flavors and innovative cooking without compromising the essentials.  It’s a bit pricier than some of my other picks in the Times Square area, but more than worth it.  Definitely reserve in advance, which you can do through the ‘Contact’ section of their website.

Toloache's version of flan
Toloache’s version of flan

Thai

Room Service

690 9th Avenue (between 47th & 48th)

Room Service serves really great Thai food in a chic atmosphere and at a reasonable price, especially for lunch.  Cocktails are also memorable.

 

Yum Yum

650 9th Avenue (between 45th & 46th)

662 9th Avenue (corner 46th)

This is probably the most famous of the Thai options near Times Square, since their popularity led them to open three different restaurants in close proximity to handle the ever-growing demand for their Thai creations.  Only two remain open, but they remain great budget options and are both located on the same stretch of 9th Avenue.

 

What Times Square eateries are your favorites?  What places didn’t make my list, but should have?  Tell me more in the Comments below.

In Times Square, NYC (1)

 

Travel Superlatives of 2016

Travel Superlatives of 2016

As I reflect back on this past year in travel, there are so many memories that bubble up. Unexpected adventures, delicious meals, and shared laughter with friends. And of course, also rushing through airports, lost luggage, or barely making the last train. About half my trips were with friends or family, and the other half as a solo traveler.

Travel is definitely not all rainbows and unicorns, but as someone told me once about travel: It’s either a great experience . . . or a great story! I end this year with quite a few of both, and heaps of gratitude for all of the adventures I was privileged to experience – the good, the bad, and the random.

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Most New Countries in a Year: 11! (and a full passport to boot)

I didn’t set out this year to visit a ton of new countries, it just sort of happened. Looking back, the new countries I made it to in Europe in 2016 – 6 – is actually quite similar to the 5 new European countries I explored last year (this year it was Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Liechtenstein, Romania, & Sweden for those of you keeping track). Ditto for Asia. Last year, I went to 2 new countries, and this year the same: Indonesia & Singapore. What really put me over the top was making it to Costa Rica for the first time on my family vacation back in August, and also getting a chance to explore 2 new countries in the Middle East with my sister this December: Oman & United Arab Emirates. Thanks, family!!

FYI, my American readers, the US phased out adding extra pages to passports at the end of 2015, so if your passport becomes full like mine, you’ll have to renew it to travel even if it’s not expiring yet. The good news is that when you renew, you can choose the longer length for no additional cost. Obviously something on my immediate to-do list in the new year 😉

Hardest Time Finding a Restaurant: Berat, Albania

When you’re traveling in Albania, you seek out Berat. Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is known as The Town of a Thousand Windows for the beautifully window-filled view you get of the hillside from the river. Many people stay in Berat overnight, but it can also be visited as a day trip during a weekend in Tirana like I did with friends back in May. We got an early start, and spent a good part of the morning hiking uphill and exploring the Berat Castle. Well after noon, we felt that we had taken in the sights, but had not been particularly inspired by the food choices inside the castle walls. And we saw one place right outside the walls, but it was a giant eatery with tour buses parked outside, so didn’t seem like our style either. Instead we found the restaurant that everyone had been raving about online as being the spot locals prefer, and started to make our way in that direction.

There were four of us including me, and with several people consulting the maps on their phone, we thought that surely we could find our way to this nearby spot quite quickly, as we were starting to get quite hungry. We started down the one hill connecting the castle entrance to town and it kept looking like a wiggle down the next side street would lead us to the restaurant entrance. I would pop down one alleyway, certain it was finally the right one, and then reappear a minute later dejected that there was no eatery present. Eventually, we made it to the bottom of the hill to town and close to the car, but let’s be real – we were committed to finding the restaurant at this stage! We drove a bit to side streets where an alternate online map placed the taverna. Then we returned to the bottom of the hill where we had started, and asked some locals passing by if they knew how to get there. Finally, after what was probably *way* too much time floundering on our own, we called the restaurant. The owner, being so gracious at what was now probably around 2pm, actually came to fetch us.

We were able to follow him in his car on a meandering path that brought us . . . to a restaurant right at the top of the path right by the castle! I think it had been hidden by the hilltop and the large restaurant with the tourist buses, but of course we had been right there at the beginning. Fortunately all of our efforts were rewarded, with a massive, delectable feast of Albanian food with a Greek twist at Taverna Lazaro.

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Place I Made the Most Friends on the Road: Waiting in Line for a Kebab in Berlin

I usually make the most friends on the road when I am traveling solo, and this year is no exception. In the end, I actually had relatively few trips when I was in a hostel-type accommodation, which is where I would normally meet other travelers. And although I did walking tours and other group activities on my own, it was actually in a quest for food that I found the most kindred spirits. Nothing brings people together quite like shared queuing, and on this particular night in Berlin, I was set on getting what is probably the city’s most famous kebab. The line was moving along at a decent clip, but then the stand ran out of supplies (!) and had to re-stock. So what was looking like a 20-minute wait became closer to an hour, and I had a chance to gain some insight on the city from two other expats: a Spaniard living and working in Berlin and a Taiwanese student studying there. More proof that you never know who’ll you meet on the road.

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Best Wine Tasting: Argiolas in Cagliari (Sardinia, Italy)

One of the best parts of living in Europe is the wine. Grapes tend to be very local, and grown and processed in a way to complement the typical food of a region. I’ve done my fair share of wine tasting all over Europe in 2016 (and even a bit in Australia this year), but there was one experience that was especially memorable and stands out from the rest – doing a tour and tasting at Argiolas Winery in Sardinia, a bit outside of Cagliari. Although I’ve gone on many wine tours, I felt like I actually learned about their specific techniques and how they differ from other wineries. And the tasting itself was just fabulous. My friend and I had one person talking us through the wines, accompanied by a bit of local food. All of the staff was so friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were so delicious, that we didn’t even realize until we had finished the last wine that we had taken so long our tasting had gone past the winery’s opening hours. Which really, is just a testament to the level of Italian hospitality we received.

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Craziest Hotel Check-in: Nessebar, Bulgaria

We’ve all been there. The crazy frustration of trying to find your hotel. It should be just around the corner. Or the GPS sends you one direction, but it just doesn’t like the correct route. Or in this case, sends you down a precarious gravel path. “No,” you think, “this can’t be right.” So you try an alternate route – which also turns out to be another gravel path. Finally you give up, and just park the corner in a random corner of the Bulgarian gravel road. And look up. And your friend says, “Hey, doesn’t that look like the picture of our hotel?”

End of story, right? If only… After confirmation from a nearby shop owner that we had indeed arrived at the correct destination, we walk into the building lobby. And there’s no reception. Hmmm….surely there must be staff somewhere, right? A quick pop to the salon downstairs finds it deserted. We call the phone number in the booking confirmation, and no reply. Then the waitress at the on-site restaurant is trying to be helpful, but speaks no English (and we speak no Bulgarian). Finally she directs us to one of the men sunbathing at the pool. My first thought is that it’s because he speaks English, but he actually turns out to be the building’s owner. “Great!” was my first – and misplaced – reaction. After studying the booking confirmation, the owner declares that there is no rental in his building under that description.

Ah, every frequent traveler’s nightmare. They gave away the last room, or the booking never existed in the first place. Images of curling up in the tiny car’s backseat for the night flash through my head, when the owner takes a moment to call the phone number we have on speakerphone. I catch a glance at his phone screen and realize that when he clicked “Send” a name popped up from his phone’s Contact List. As I wonder whether this is a good or bad sign, he quickly hangs up before someone has a chance to answer. He makes another call. This time it finally sounds promising, and I hear what sounds like “Italien” and I start gesturing saying, yes, I have an Italian phone number I used for my booking, it’s us. Does that mean we finally have a place to stay?? And yes, we have a room! He knows this person, and she is going to come and show us to our rooms. Imagine our relief when the room is just as expected, and even has a complimentary bottle of Bulgarian wine to greet us. As the door clicks behind her, out comes the joint, palpable, audible sigh. We’re finally checked in.

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Most People Visited in a Country I’ve Never Lived: 8 in Singapore

I visit friends in my travels often, and in fact, having a friend living in a foreign country is the best reason to get there for a visit! It’s great having a reason to explore a new, unexpected destination, and was how I picked several of my travel destinations this past year. Usually I travel to visit a single friend or family, with London as my usual exception, although most of my friends who live there I met in Milan. So it was quite random when I realized as I planned my November travel that I actually know quite a few people living in Singapore and there was never a better time to go.

There is the close Milan friend and previous around-the-corner neighbor who lives there with her husband and daughter, but may not be staying in Singapore much longer. The Singaporean college friend who I had seen relatively recently when she came to visit Milan during the World Expo last year, but whose days in Singapore are probably numbered as well. And then there’s the high school friend and her Singaporean husband and two children who only recently moved to Singapore. Several of these friends are now what I like to call 3-continent friends – people I’ve spent time with on three different continents. And for me it’s definitely notable to have so many different people from different stages of my life who just happen to all live in the same tiny island nation. While I didn’t know much about Singapore before visiting (other than having a ton of friends to visit), I became obsessed with the Singaporean style of breakfast and Singapore was one of my favorite destinations this year!

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Craziest Adventurous Things I Did:

Pemberton Climbing Trees (Australia) & Walking to Al Sawadi Island and Fort (Oman)

For me being adventurous doesn’t mean having no fear. Being adventurous is being confronted with something scary and/or dangerous, and then going outside of your comfort zone to do it anyway. There were two things in 2016 that really got my adrenaline pumping, both for being ostensibly dangerous, as well as me not really knowing what to expect ahead of time. First, was scaling the Pemberton climbing trees, which involved some incredibly tall trees and not much of a safety net. It was a bit terrifying, but also quite rewarding to reach the tops and take in the expansive views. Read more about the full experience in my post linked above and here.

The second pretty crazy thing I did was on my recent Oman trip with my sister. On the coast north of Muscat, there is a spot called Al Sawadi, with a nearby island and fort not too far off the beach. While there are boats you can pay to take you across, I had read something about being able to *walk* to the island during low tide. We arrived around 4pm and the water was looking quite low, but there was no one else walking across or anyone to ask. After a little bit of a walk when the water reached just up to knee level, we decided to go for it. This is only slightly complicated in Oman by the fact that it is a modest Muslim country where your shoulders and knees should be covered at all times in public. So you’re not just stripping down to your bikini and going for it. But venturing out into the unknown was great – the thrill and exhilaration of not knowing whether we’d be able to make it across, or if we did, how high the water level would rise before we reached the shore. In the end, my zip-off pants only got a little wet, and then we arrived and had the island entirely to ourselves! We hiked in our sport sandals to the top of the fort, took lots of pictures with the cell phones we were brave enough to carry for the journey, and had an even-lower tide for the walk back to where we had left the car, making it back across just as the sun set. An incredible and memorable experience, I’m reliving the excitement just typing about it.

Time Most Worth it to Trust a Stranger: Heading to the Cave at Wadi Khalid, Oman

I’m from New York, so it’s sort of second nature that when a stranger offers to help me out of the blue, my radar goes off and I become super skeptical of everything the person says and suggests. Perhaps it’s not the most open and loving way to live, but that is always my knee-jerk reaction: caution. Fortunately, the day exploring Wadi Khalid in Oman (a series of interconnected water pools and caves in the desert) came far enough into the week-long road trip that I already knew how hospitable Omanis were. Plus, they are so excited to see tourists – especially American ones – that they want you to have an amazing experience so you inspire others to visit when you go home.

As my sister and I were following the vague arrows pointing toward the Wadi’s famous cave, a man in traditional Omani dress fell into step beside us. He told us that he was heading to the cave as well, and as a local, knew the way quite well. My mind at this point was racing with possibilities, but we were just walking in that direction and were outside with plenty of other visitors. At one point I did inquire as to why he was so interested in showing us around, and he revealed that he was a police officer in Muscat and wanted to practice his English. It sounded legit, and again, we were not alone, but it was quite interesting crouching into a dark cave with no signs or directions, blindly following the instincts of a local who had been many times before. Our new Omani friend Said was a great guide, showing us the water source of the wadi, pointing out bats that were hanging from the ceiling just above our heads, and giving us the full experience of the cave. There’s no way my sister and I would have ventured that far alone, and it was just incredible to see the caverns and crevices inside.

Biggest Travel Injury: Stubbed Toe in Abu Dhabi

Anyone who knows me knows that I can be quite clumsy, so an injured toe as my biggest injury of the year is a major accomplishment. Interestingly enough, if I am doing a potentially dangerous activity like rock climbing or cliff diving, I’m quite attentive and tend to emerge unscathed. My biggest injuries ever? Both my broken collarbone and severely injured finger resulted from what was essentially me tripping over my own feet.

Stubbing my toe in Abu Dhabi doesn’t sound serious, but it was quite a wound. Basically, I was walking back to bed after a middle-of-the-night trip to the bathroom, and didn’t realize that one of the stylish chairs with metal legs reached out almost to the edge of the bed. I thought I would have cleared it by a mile, but instead I walked quite decisively forward and essentially sliced my second toe open. So it was more serious (and bloody) than your typical stubbed toe, and it hurt to walk for the next 10 days, as in it was painful taking e-v-e-r-y s-i-n-g-l-e s-t-e-p. But for a year of travel and adventure (and given my lifelong tendency to injure myself weirdly and quite seriously), not too bad at all.

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Travel First: Getting Put Up in a Hotel

Lost luggage? Yes, many times, sometimes for up to several days.

Missed a connecting flight? Of course, but usually with good, alternate options to still get there within a few hours.

Been on an overbooked flight offering vouchers? Plenty of times, but usually when I was in the US traveling for work and had to be somewhere by a certain time, so I’d never taken advantage.

Slept in an airport? Sure, most memorably at the Dallas airport in a snowstorm when I was trying to be there for the first flight back to New York for New Year’s Eve & at the Kuala Lumpur budget terminal (never again!)

Missing a connection and needing to stay in a hotel overnight? That had never happened to me before – until a week ago, so just under the wire to be part of my 2016 travel superlatives. I had just over an hour of transit time at London’s Heathrow Airport, which is cutting it quite close to begin with. Then, as we were lining up to board the bus that would take us to the plane in Milan, the snow started to fall. What?!? It almost never snows in Milan, because it’s usually not quite cold enough. And snow certainly had not been part of the forecast. When the captain announced that there was a long line to de-ice the plane and we would likely be delayed at least 30 minutes, I flagged over a flight attendant to ask about my connection. When he informed me that you need to scan through the transfer desk at Heathrow 35 minutes before your departure time to be allowed on the plane, I knew I was in trouble. In the US, they would likely send information up to the plane about the connecting flight, or at least the crew would be able to phone and request it. For this London connection, I had the sinking feeling that I would be out of luck, which was confirmed when we touched down an hour late.

By the time someone was available to help me at the re-booking desk, the best option was just to take the same early afternoon flight the following day. Spend an unexpected 24 hours in London, catching up with friends and soaking up the holiday atmosphere? If I must…

Most Times Crossing Paths with a Friend – and half the time accidentally!

It’s one thing to plan a lot of travel with a good friend, it’s quite another to have the one person you keep running into at unplanned moments in unexpected cities. Of the 6 times I’ve crossed paths with this one particular friend, our run-ins have spanned 4 cities on 2 continents – and only 2 were arranged in advance! We had planned to be in Bucharest, Romania (where she is from) over the same weekend in early June so she could show me around and we could hang out. Then a few weeks beforehand when her schedule was too busy on a business trip to Milan, a work dinner fell through and she messaged me last minute so we met up for a meal. In August when I was in New York, she messaged me about a last-minute work trip that had also brought her to the city, so we had another unplanned meal together. And then, the very next night on the way to meet another friend, I walked into another restaurant in a completely different part of town. And the first person I see? This same friend! Our 5th meeting of the year was arranged in advance, when I came to London to see the American football (NFL) game with my home team playing. And then on my recent missed connection in London, I messaged this friend to see if she was possibly around. It turned out that about an hour after my message she was actually coming to the same terminal of Heathrow Airport where I was stranded! So we met up for a coffee, and our last in a string of prolific, unexpected run-ins throughout 2016.

 

What were the stand-out moments of your 2016 travel??

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