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Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

Israeli cuisine is quite varied, but mostly local, so when a specific restaurants stands out for me, it’s really something special. Living there, I shopped for fresh produce at the shuk (market), bought my pita in stacks of ten several times a week, and mostly cooked at home. And with such fresh ingredients – the fruits and vegetables are at the peak of ripeness – you don’t need to do much to make them taste amazing. Not surprisingly, salads and spreads made from this excellent produce constitute a good part of the Israeli diet. And in the case of most of the local specialties that comprise my ‘foodie bucket list’ when I visit these days, these typical foods are available nearly everywhere, and every neighborhood has its best local place to consume them. If asked, any two Israelis are likely to argue over the best falafel spot down the street or which restaurant serves up the best shakshuka.

So in an environment like this, how did I possibly compose a list of “best” places to eat and drink across the country?

There are a small number of traditional and experimental foods and drinks that have made such an impression on me that I can still recall my meal in great detail. Some single flavor combination that is so spot-on or well-balanced. Or a unique ambiance that enhances great food and drink all the more. Or a basic establishment that serves such standout dishes that I want to come back for a return visit – and I have!

These are my best bites and sips. Israeli restaurants, cafes, and bars that I would come back to again and again (and probably will on my next visit):

Acre/Akko

Uri Buri

Uri Buri CIMG0754 (2)Uri Buri CIMG0757 (2)Uri Buri CIMG0758 (2)

The meal I savored here still counts as one of the most epic tasting menus I’ve ever consumed. The philosophy is that they’ll keep bringing out specialty dishes of the house until you’ve decided that you’ve had enough for one night. Not a budget endeavor, but completely worth it for the cozy atmosphere in an old stone building and the whimsical and enticing dishes that exit the kitchen one after another. It was one of the first dishes that were served – a salmon sashimi with wasabi gelato – that really set the tone for me that I would be in for a special evening delighting my foodie tastebuds. While Uri Buri is a fish restaurant, it is not kosher (so will serve up shellfish), although there is also the option to dine a la carte if that’s a concern. And if you’re lucky, you’ll get a view of Uri Buri himself in the kitchen and greeting diners. He looks a bit like Santa Claus with a long white beard and lots of jolly laughter, so you’ll know it’s him if you see him. Only such joy could produce food this good.

Haifa

Fattoush

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On the main street in Haifa that leads to the Baha’i Temple is this wonderland of Middle Eastern culinary specialties, with enough options to satisfy anyone’s appetite. There are ample vegetarian dishes and more meat dishes than you can imagine. Plus, you can’t beat eating inside the quaint courtyard on a beautiful day. Make sure to leave room for dessert and get their tahini ice cream – a frozen delight based on the sesame spread – something you’re not likely to be able to enjoy anywhere else.

Jerusalem

Gatsby Cocktail Room

Gatsby Cocktail Room Jerusalem Israel 20151205_182829 (2)Gatsby Cocktail Room Jerusalem Israel 20151205_185436 (2)

I’ve had my fair share of cocktails during my time living in and visiting Israel, however the one that stands out in my mind I enjoyed at Gatsby. It’s a speakeasy on par with any I’ve been to in the world, bringing creativity and whimsy to its well-balanced creations. Being a speakeasy of course, it’s a bit tricky to find. To the right of the entrance to the Aroma Cafe is an unmarked door. Entering will bring you to a room where someone will be there to swing the bookcase open (!!) and let you inside. I was able to get in right when they opened on a Saturday after Shabbat ended, but in general reservations are recommended.

Machane Yehuda Market

Machane Yehuda Market Jerusalem Israel 20151204_141133

This market has been around Jerusalem for around a century, with countless vendor stalls selling all of the local specialties you could dream of, from bourekas to halva to baklava. It’s a great spot to pick up goodies for a picnic meal, or food for over the Sabbath from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown, when many restaurants in Jerusalem are closed. Relatively recently, the market after hours has also become a destination, especially for the younger Jerusalemites. There are a ton of sit-down restaurants of local and global cuisine that make this area a nightlife hub once the daytime vendors have closed shop for the evening. If you’ve never been, I’d check out the market both during the day and again in the evening to fully appreciate all it has to offer.

Marzipan Bakery

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A spot not far from Machane Yehuda Market (see above), no visit to Israel is complete without rugelach, a chocolately rolled mini-pastry, as prepared here. Bold words, but I absolutely mean it and am not alone – many foreigners make Marzipan their final travel stop before heading to the airport so they can take fresh rugelach home for loved ones. You’ll want to be sure to go when you’re in Jerusalem, too.

Tmol Shilshom

I’ve been coming to this bookstore/cafe for nearly two decades. And it’s just as charming as it was on the day I first wandered down an alleyway off Jerusalem’s touristy downtown pedestrian area and entered its cozy interior. Its shakshuka has been named one of the 10 best breakfasts in the world by Lonely Planet and its evening fare consists of the typical light, yet filling dishes you’d find at a cafe. Even as a teenager, I appreciated this oasis in the middle of an otherwise chaotic part of town, especially in the evenings. And sitting in plush chairs among the bookshelves just has a way of making you feel at home.

Tel Aviv/Jaffa

Hummus Habayit

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In a teeny outpost on Allenby Street sits this self-proclaimed ‘House of Hummus’ serving up delicious plates of hummus with some of the friendliest service you’ll find in all of Israel. Here, the hummus is the main event, to be slowly enjoyed by ripping off small chunks of pita and swirling it through the plate of hummus. It’s a relaxing ritual, and you’ll want to eat slowly and savor all your bites at this spot that claims to be No. 2 in all of Israel. Number 1 according to the chef? Your first hummus ever. After that, this is the spot to go.

The Old Man and the Sea

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Named after the Ernest Hemingway novel of the same name, this restaurant has been around Tel Aviv for a while and boasts multiple branches, although the one in the port city of Old Jaffa has the best view. Come with a group of friends if you can, as your table will be covered with salads and spreads to devour, and that’s even before your fish arrives. The food is great, the atmosphere makes it.

Sabich Frishman

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Okay, so sabich may be my new Israeli food obsession. This pita stuffed with fried eggplant, hard-boiled egg, and a range of vegetables and condiments has all the ingredients and balance that for me make a perfect bite. And the version you’ll get at Sabich Frishman is considered by many to be the best in Tel Aviv, possibly in all of Israel. There is likely to be a line snaking out the door at most hours as locals line up. I like mine with cheese, all the vegetables and condiments, and a bit of spicy sauce, but you can just let them know when they efficiently take your order at the front.

Have you been to any of these spots? Any place I should have included that’s not listed? Any other questions about eating out in Israel? Let me know in the Comments!

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Best Places to Eat & Drink

Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Impressions

Naples is considered the birthplace of pizza, however the Neapolitan pizza tradition is just scratching the surface of what the city has to offer. Many people pass by Naples on their Italy travels, or stay for just a few hours when transiting, but there is such a special personality of the city that warrants a longer stay. You can read more about my impressions of Naples and all of the crazy experiences I’ve had that represent some of the spirit there in a previous post here.

Sights in Naples range from the subterranean tunnel system to opulent churches with incredible art collections and castles with incredible vistas of the harbor. The intensity and bustle of the city is matched by the variety and flavor of the many local culinary specialties, and a few days or a weekend is needed even just to eat your way through Naples, let alone appreciate all its beauty. Keep scrolling for all of the things you’ll want to spend your time doing, and where to eat some incredible food along the way.

Things to Do

Amazing art

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Archaelogical Museum

Pompeii is of course worth a visit all on its own, however the Archaeological museum in Naples itself is where a lot of the art from Pompeii is displayed. It’s an incredible collection well worth the time to explore (I spent several hours).

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Pio Monte della Misericordia

I went inside on a whim one of the many times I was walking along Via dei Tribunali, one of the central streets close to many churches and restaurants. Although it is a church, there is a fairly large collection of impressive artwork and objects, including Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy.

Sansevero Chapel Museum

The highlight of this museum-chapel is the tomb monument known as ‘the veiled Christ.’ Like all transcendent art, you see it once, and then anywhere else you are in the room, your eyes keep getting drawn back to appreciate its beauty.

Other churches of note

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Duomo

The word Duomo means cathedral in Italian, making it a top sight in most Italian cities. The Duomo in Naples is no exception, and it especially notable for the Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro, a museum of well-adorned art treasures connected to the cathedral.

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Church of Gesù Nuovo

This is a very different looking church from the others you’ll see in Naples, especially from the outside with its dark stone facade, starkly contrasting with the golden colors of its interior. It’s a popular place for locals to attend service on Sundays, so plan your visit accordingly.

Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore

Pretty much in the exact historic center, the inside is not as opulent as some of the other churches, but this Basilica boasts extensive history, including the remnants of an ancient Roman market underneath.

Around town

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Napoli Sottoranea (Naples Underground)

This is a tunnel tour well worth your time, exploring the tunnel system under the city. History in the tunnels ranges from use as a water source in ancient times to being used as a shelter during World War II, and even includes the remains of a Roman theater that is concealed by the many homes and apartments it borders.

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Spaccanapoli

This street is easily spotted from any vantage point in Naples as the pedestrian walkway that cuts a straight line through the historical center. Mentioned often in Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it is still a bustling street where locals spend their leisure time.

Porta Nolana market

Visiting a market is a must to get a feel for the true chaos of Naples. The Porta Nolana market is mostly known for its fish and seafood, although you can find typical market fare as well.

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Lungomare Caracciolo

Lungomare literally means the length of the sea, and is the pedestrian promenade along the Gulf of Naples. You’ll find many locals taking a stroll here in the late afternoon, watching breathtaking sunset views.

Amazing views/Off the beaten path

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Capodimonte Museum

There are some famous works of art housed here and I enjoyed my visit, but I appreciated the location even more for its expansive views and the popular park surrounding the museum building.

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Castel Nuovo

Close to the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito, this literal “new castle” is quite distinctive-looking and considered a city landmark, and dates from medieval times.

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Castle of St. Elmo & Certosa e Museo di San Martino

The castle and nearby former monastery/museum are both accessible on the same hilltop by either metro or funicular from the center (followed by a bit of walking). The views from both are breathtaking, and they are not very crowded – I had some great opportunities to sit and appreciate the view in solitude. Also check out the nearby Friggitoria Vomero (see below) for a quick bite.

Ovo Castle

While the castle itself has irregular hours and I did not get a chance to visit, it is located on a small peninsula jutting out from the mainland not far from the Piazza del Plebiscito. Worth a visit for its lovely views of coastal Naples, especially at sunset.

Morning in Napoli, at Piazza Dante
Morning in Napoli, at Piazza Dante

Piazza del Plebiscito

This piazza, or square, has a very different look and feel from other parts of the city. It is an austere semi-circular open expanse lined by traditional columns and the domed Basilica Reale, or royal basilica.

Best Bites (& Sips)

Coffee

Caffè Mexico

On Piazza Dante, Caffe’ Mexico is considered by many to be the best coffee in Naples. The interior is traditional as is the espresso: deep brown and intense. Local coffee in Naples packs a particularly strong punch, even by Italian standards, and the version at Caffe’ Mexico exemplifies why coffee was its own entry on my list of Top 10 Things to Eat and Drink in Naples.

Il Vero Bar del Professore

Beware imposters, there are a ton of similarly named places in the immediate vicinity of the real (vero) bar where caffè alla nocciola was created, but it is worth seeking out the original spot where espresso was mixed with whipped hazelnut (nocciola) cream. Mmmmm . . .

Pastries

Attanasio Sfogliatella Naples 20151025_114728

Sfogliatelle Attanasio

Open daily except Monday, take a number to join the queue for the piping hot sfogliatella, a seashell-looking pastry which is served here with the perfect balance of ricotta, citrus, and crispy outside. It is quite close to the central train station, making it an easy stop for visitors (and loads of locals).

Pastisseria Capriccio di Salvatore Capparelli

This spot is my go-to spot for babà on Via dei Tribunali, serving up a light-as-air version of the local rum cake that somehow has still soaked up all the syrupy goodness without being too sweet.

Restaurants

Pizza at 50 Kalò Naples 20151025_195432

50 Kalò

Neapolitans could probably argue for days over which pizzeria serves the best pizza in Naples. I had a particularly delicious one here, on a recommendation from a friend-of-a-friend who is from Naples. It’s not such a well-kept secret though, learn more about what makes their dough so special here.

Friggitoria Vomero

This friggitoria (a vendor of fried goodies), was a small, authentic spot close to the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. The smell draws you in and then you are presented with many fried options to choose from, although I think the fried polenta and fried zucchini blossoms, fiori di zucca, were my best bites.

La Masardona Fried pizza 20151024_133201La Masardona mac n cheese 20151024_140638

La Masardona

Also close to the central train station, this is another popular place that keeps the order of people waiting by taking a number. There are several varieties of fried pizza available, although my favorite bite might have been what was essentially fried macaroni and cheese (technically with bechamel, but same thing really). And best of all, you get to watch them assemble and fry your choices.

Osteria Da Antonio

A charming spot with local specialties done well and friendly service. It’s small, but cozy, and filled with lots of Italians. I dined on my own and it felt like I was being welcomed into someone’s home.

Limoncello

Limonè

Also along the Via dei Tribunali stretch and right by the Naples Underground, this factory makes several lemon-based products, including limoncello, the famous local lemon liqueur, usually imbibed at the end of a hearty meal to aid digestion (literally a digestivo). Unlike souvenir shops, at Limonè you can taste the different varieties of limoncello before you buy. I like both their traditional limoncello and their crema di limone, the cream version.

Have you visited Naples? What were your highlights? Anything I should add to the Cheat Sheet? Let me know in the Comments!

Naples Italy Cheat Sheet - What to Do and Where to Eat

10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

Every time I’m in Venice, I feel like I am seeing visitors who arrive unprepared. Situated on an archipelago of many nearby islands with canals and waterways in between, Venice is a different kind of city than the ones you’re used to back home. Here are my Commandments for Visiting Venice, to make the most of your time in the city:

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  1. Get ready to climb some bridges. Yes, you know that Venice is a city of islands, but you may not have thought about what logically follows – there are a ton of bridges connecting the various parts of the city. A 10-minute walk could easily involve 5 bridges to cross. And since all of the waterways have active boat traffic, the bridges typically involve a series of steps up one side and then down the other to allow enough room underneath for the boats to pass.
  2. Leave your wheelie bags at home. If you formed a mental picture of how many stairs you’ll be climbing up and down as you traverse Venice’s many bridges, you’ll understand my strong recommendation that you leave your wheeled luggage at home. Plus, when there’s not a bridge to cross, the streets tend to be cobblestone, which is not fun for you – or for your bag. Although rumors a few years back of a ban on wheeled suitcases are not true, it’s still wise to do without.TIP! If you must bring large luggage on wheels to Venice, stay somewhere that is a short walk or direct vaporetto (public transit boat) ride away. Even the hotels just opposite the train station involve crossing one of the taller bridges, so if you must bring a wheelie bag, stick to the same side of the train station or boat stop for your accommodation.

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  3. Getting anywhere will take at least twice as long as you expect, especially on foot. People walk slowly in Venice, and many “streets” are just narrow passageways with no room to pass. There is not always a bridge where you’d like one, especially across the Grand Canal. It is also hard to navigate around Venice, so you may end up down a dead-end street or try to walk along the water’s edge only to discover that the path ends abruptly and you’ll need extra time to backtrack to your route.signs-dsc_0869
  4. Keep an eye on the signs. I remember while preparing for my first trip to Venice that one of the guidebooks suggested wandering to Saint Mark’s Square as a recommended activity. Then when I arrived, there were large signs everywhere I turned saying “Per S. Marco” with an arrow pointing the way. While this makes it harder to “wander,” these signs are your friends when it comes to navigating! Nothing will slow you down more than every minute or two stopping foot traffic to check your phone or try to make sense of a paper map. It will speed up your walking time immensely if you know which way you’re headed and use the signs to guide you.TIP! Even if you’re going somewhere else, know which of the places on the typical street signs are in the same direction you’re trying to go. The most common signs will be for: S. Marco (Saint Mark’s Square), Rialto (the Rialto bridge), Accademia (art museum, but *also* indicates the location of the other main pedestrian bridge across the Grand Canal besides by the train station), Ferrovia (the train station), & Piazzale Roma (the bus station).

    TIP! The signs don’t appear every block, but once they indicate a direction, keep walking that way (including over bridges) until you see the next sign.

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  5. Explore areas off the beaten path. No, I don’t mean the famous islands when I say this. The main islands that form Venice have plenty of neighborhoods away from the most popular tourist attractions, and this is a great way to get a feel for the city and its people.island-dsc_0665
  6. That said, visit at least one island away from the main section of Venice. Lido, Giudecca, and Murano are the closest islands, while Burano and others are a longer boat ride away. Not only is it great to get a view of the main section of Venice from the water, each island has its own flavor that will give you a fuller picture of the city overall. And some islands are known for their local crafts (like Murano for blown glass and Burano for lace and its colored houses) that you can explore through various museums and shops when you visit.boat-dsc_0887
  7. Take a boat ride. Besides walking, the most budget-friendly (and fastest) way to get around Venice is often the vaporetto, which is the pubic transit boat. An individual ride is pricey, but the single-day and several-day passes are good value – decide which one is right for you before you arrive.Many people also come to Venice with the romantic notion of a gondola ride. If this is non-negotiable for you, by all means do it. However not only is this quite expensive, but gondolas are restricted to certain routes and there’s basically a continuous line of gondolas one after another in a bit of a traffic jam, so you are not likely to get the romantic seclusion you may have envisioned.

    There are also a few alternative options. First, ride the vaporetto. You may find that the experience along the Grand Canal or traveling to one of the islands (see #6 above) gives you enough of a view of Venice from the water that you are satisfied. You can also at some point take a taxi boat, for example back to your hotel after dinner and a long day of walking around. Or, for the tour experience, while the gondolas are too tiny to go in the Grand Canal, for a similar price you can get a private boat hire (different from a taxi) that can give you a bit of a tour and private ride along Venice’s largest waterway.

  8. Eat like the locals. There are some lovely seafood restaurants and fancy Venetian fare to sample – and you should. But if you really want to eat like a local, take in an early evening drink with some Venetian tapas, cicchetti. Never heard of them? Check out my post on the best spots in Venice to sample cicchetti.locals-outdoors-cicchetti-dsc_0217
  9. Follow the Italian. No, I’m not suggesting that you stalk someone. But do listen for the places where you hear Italian spoken, or where the locals are congregating. This is your best indicator for a spot worth checking out.
  10. Chat up the Venetians. Whether this is the person working at your hotel, a server at dinner, or the friendly person pouring wine with your cicchetti, you can always get the best feel for a place from the people from the city. There have been some protests lately against the tourist influx and a campaign to ban large cruise ships, so engender some goodwill by showing genuine interest in the local opinion and experience, even if it’s as simple as taking a recommendation for a local’s favorite glass of wine instead of sticking to the one name you recognize on the list. Even with the recent protests, Venetians are curious and friendly if you’re respectful of local tradition and willing to open up.
  11. Be spontaneous and enjoy! Okay, so this is a bonus one, but also important. Most visitors to Venice have a short amount of time to spend in the city, and jam pack an itinerary filled with museum visits and timed activities. Some of the best experiences I’ve had in Venice have been ones I couldn’t have planned in advance (like an art exhibit I saw a poster for and then visited, or a side street that led straight to a stunning view of the Grand Canal), so leave time in the schedule for spontaneity – you won’t regret it!

10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

How to Survive Missing Your Airline Connection

How to Survive Missing Your Airline Connection

It almost never snows in Milan. In three years of living there, I saw it snow for at most a half hour at a time – usually rain that turned into snow briefly, and then back to rain. Snowfall is typically light or non-existent each winter because most of the cold fronts and snow get trapped in the Alps not far outside of the city. The biggest accumulation I ever saw was a light dusting that lasted just long enough for me (in a brief moment of inspiration) go for a run in Sempione Park.

So last month as I was preparing for my repatriation trip to the United States, a.k.a. moving back “home,” I had a lot of mixed thoughts and emotions about the trip – but none that included a snow-related delay for my flight! I didn’t even check the weather before heading to the airport, since winter in Milan tends to hover just above freezing pretty much every day. (Although I found out later that snow was not in the forecast, so checking the weather wouldn’t have helped anyway.)

Only when I was at the airport all checked in and cleared through customs did I approach the departure gate. Which is when I first glanced outside and was quite surprised to see a sheet of white on the other side of the window. Even then I thought that it was most likely hail, and it was only when I walked closer to the glass did I realize it was snowing. And not just flurries, it was driving snow coming down hard and fast. Of course, since the first leg of my flight was the relatively short hop from Milan to London, we didn’t even have a jetbridge to stroll onto the airplane directly, but ended up boarding by taking a bus to the plane and then ascending on foot.

Getting off the shuttle bus and crossing the tarmac on foot to board the plane, I (along with all of the Milanesi) were consumed by the joy of the snowfall. Smartphones popped into everyone’s hands, with pretty much all the passengers snapping shots of the snow, the airport and the snow, and selfies boarding the plane as it’s snowing. It was such an unusual event, everyone wanted to capture it, and we passengers were all smiles as we boarded.

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It was in the moment after I took my seat that the panic and dread about my connecting flight started to set in. I had an already tight connection of barely over an hour at London Heathrow, one of the largest airports in the world. I wasted no time and flagged over the flight attendant nearly immediately. He tried to reassure me that we’d likely make up time in the air and it shouldn’t be that bad. Then the captain comes on and she starts talking about the growing line to get the plane de-iced and then the likely takeoff delays after that process. Her ballpark estimate of our delay time is a modest 20 minutes. Another flight attendant stops by and she lets me know that my outbound flight should be leaving from the same terminal where we’ll be arriving, and that as long as I clear the transfer desk 35 minutes in advance, all should be well.

But of course de-icing and even the line to start the process takes longer than expected. Then we are far back in the line of planes waiting to leave. By the time we take off, it’s almost an hour after our original departure time. Although we are supposed to make up some of that time in the air, for an unknown reasons we slow down to cross Swiss air space. We land at Heathrow nearly an hour late, so just minutes before my next flight is expected to leave. I head briskly to the transfer desk anyway and find a person who brings me to the front of the line, but when my boarding pass is scanned an unpleasant beep sounds, indicating that I am too late for the electronic gate to let me through.

At a smaller airport, or even some of the larger US ones where I’ve had tight connections before, they might hold the plane for you. Or there could be a cascade of delays, allowing you time to catch the continuing flight. At Heathrow, everything is automated and there is no way for the staff to override the built-in time limits. When my boarding pass for the transfer is rejected by the scanner, there is nothing left to try – I take a deep breath and head straight for the re-booking line.

What to Expect When You Miss Your Connection
The first thing to expect when you miss a flight, especially at a big airport like London’s Heathrow, is . . . waiting. The rush of trying to catch your flight and all of the adrenaline that is pumping through your system comes to a screeching halt as you get in line behind the other delayed and frustrated travelers in the re-booking line. I was fortunate to have been traveling in Business class (this is what happens when it’s a company-booked flight), so there was a separate re-booking line I could join. Even then, it took me nearly a half hour to reach the front of the queue and finally speak to a person.

By this time, a couple of what would have been re-booking options for me had elapsed. They could have re-routed me at that point to a far away airport in the US, but then ground transportation once I arrived would have been at my own expense to the tune of hundreds of dollars. With 3 checked bags and a carry-on, there would have been no way to take cheaper public transit options. However, staying overnight and catching the same connecting flight the following day meant that British Airways would put me up in a hotel and provide meal and transportation vouchers for free.

In the end, it made the most sense for me to simply take the flight the next day, and once that was decided it was just a matter of getting everything booked and my vouchers printed. Here’s what was involved in being put up overnight by the airline:

Phone Calls
It didn’t occur to me that I’d be able to use the airline’s phone to make an international call to the US, until the helpful staff member at the desk saw me fumbling with my Italian cell phone. Although I only made a single call, I found out later that in the European Union (EU), you are entitled to 2 phone calls or some other type of communication in the event of being re-booked (see more in the section below on the Passenger Rights).
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Hotel
I imagine that pretty much all airlines will book you at a hotel as close to the airport as possible. For me, the surprise came in that British Airways has a separate hotel for its customers traveling in Business Class. Apparently I would have ended up somewhere else if they were re-booking an Economy ticket. Either way, there seems to be particular hotels they are partnered with, and I did not get a choice about where I stayed.
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Transportation
The hotel was close to the airport, but still a bit of a drive, so the airline covered my round-trip transportation. The down side? Transportation was only covered on a specific shuttle bus, so I was subject to their schedule in both directions, and could not simply catch a ride when I was ready. Also, transportation was only covered between the airport and the hotel. When I went into downtown London to stroll around and meet a friend for dinner, that was at my own expense.
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Meal Vouchers
Since breakfast was included at the hotel, I received two meal vouchers. The first was for a “snack” and only valid at the airport. So the first thing I did after being re-booked was stay at the airport so I could get some food as I had missed lunch and was actually quite hungry at that point. My second voucher was for dinner, but again with limited validity. I could only use it at the hotel. By the point my vouchers were issued I knew it was likely I’d go into London to meet a friend for dinner, so asked if there was an alternate voucher for this. There wasn’t, so dinner ended up being at my own expense.

Luggage
This is an important one – checked luggage stays checked during the layover. So you will not have access to what’s inside your checked bags. This is one of the reasons that I’m so glad I pack my carry-on bag strategically every time I fly (see more about my essential carry-on items in the next section on How to Be Ready for Every Flight).
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Amenities Kit
You may be familiar with the amenities kit you’ll get from an airline for an overnight flight, usually with an eye mask, toothbrush, tissues, and maybe some lotion. When you are put up overnight by the airline at a hotel, it’s a slightly different collection of items. My British Airways kit contained an XL t-shirt (for the record I usually wear a small so this would have been like a dress on me), deodorant, shampoo, lotion, shaving cream, a razor, a comb, & a toothbrush with a tiny toothpaste tube. If I hadn’t been prepared, this would have been great to tide me over until the next day, but I still felt better having my own stuff. In the end, I didn’t use anything from this pack.

Immigration
I’ve even had to clear immigration for long layovers that were not delayed. Certainly in the case of a flight delay of many hours or an overnight in a different country than where you left from, you will have to be processed (plus, you’ll want to leave the airport anyway). I have Global Entry for arriving in the US, so I was not expected any new passport stamps before returning home and being able to get a new passport, as mine was almost completely full. Fortunately while the Immigration Officer made sure I wasn’t traveling anywhere else besides the UK that would require space for a stamp, he found a somewhat empty corner to place the UK stamp and let me in =)
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Passenger Rights
I wouldn’t have thought to ask for this, but the re-booking desk provided me with a copy of the Passenger Rights for the EU. Other countries have similar policies. Some of the compensation I received was specific to Europe, so be sure to request a copy of what your rights are in the country where you’ve been delayed. If a copy is not available, find it online to know what you’re entitled to get in your specific scenario.

How to Be Ready for Every Flight

Some of the reason I survived staying overnight unexpectedly in a surprise country with the greatest of ease is because I am *always* prepared for the unexpected every time I board a flight. What does this mean?

First, if you have any sort of connecting flight, be sure to book with the same airline for whole itinerary. An airline only has an obligation to help you if it one of their flights that caused you to miss the next one. Otherwise, if you are traveling on two different carriers, there is no help if you’re delayed and miss the connection. It will be your financial responsibility to sort it out.

I’ve had my luggage delayed on several occasions, this was the first time I was waylaid en route. That’s usually the contingency I’m planning for – me making it to my final destination without luggage. I’ve had my luggage delayed for anywhere from a few hours to several days, and my carry on bag is always packed with that possibility in mind.

Another general preparation tip – make sure your carry on bag makes it onto the plane with you! All of the emergency provisions you pack are only useful if you still have access to them if your luggage doesn’t make it or ends up routed to a wrong destination. To do this, I go to great lengths to make sure that the plane does not run out of overhead space before I board, requiring me to “gate check” my bag. Even it means queuing up early to board the plane.

With the “gate check” process, sometimes your bag is brought to you at the jetway to pick up and sometimes it comes out on the belt with your checked luggage (causing you to spend additional time once you arrive to retrieve it). Sometimes they tell you that your bag will come to the jetway, and you only find out at your destination that it will come out with the checked luggage instead. Again, reasons I try my best to avoid being in the situation of having to “gate check” my bag. Just in case.

Here’s what to pack in your carry-on for any “just in case” situation, whether it’s your checked bag not arriving at your destination or you needing to stay overnight unexpectedly in a strange city or country:

  • Laptop, e-reader, and other key electronics
  • Chargers for your phone & any other electronics you have with you
  • Universal plug adapter (for any international travel)
  • Basic toiletries, including toothbrush, hairbrush, & deodorant
  • Other basic items, including nail clippers, tweezers, band-aids, & a sewing kit
  • Any moisturizers or lotions, plus travel-sized shower items (for me this is shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, facewash, & body lotion) And yes, this all fits in my quart-sized bag. And then some.
  • Any medicines you might need, plus several pills of a basic pain-killer and an anti-diarrheal
  • Pajamas
  • At least 1 clean additional shirt and 1 pair of socks
  • Several clean pairs of underwear.
    Yes, even though I only bring one shirt and a pair of socks, I bring several pairs of underwear. Because other things can be dirty in a pinch if you’re delayed longer than expected (or your lost luggage takes extra time to arrive). You want your underwear to be clean.

There are a few other things that I typically have in my carry-on bag – like an umbrella – but this list is just the essentials to be sure to include for those “just in case” situations. There’s definitely space for more than this in my carry-on, with the specifics of the other contents depending on the trip.

In this particular instance, I was especially glad to have my universal adapter, as the UK is on a different plug from both Italy and the US. Without it, I wouldn’t have been able to charge my devices. And even though I got basic toiletries and a t-shirt from the airline, I was far more relaxed and comfortable having my own clothes and basics to get me through my unexpected layover in London.
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Plus, since I didn’t have to spend any time scrambling to buy clothing or toiletries or electronics, I was able to focus my time on meeting up last-minute with friends (I saw 2 different friends during my surprise layover!) and soaking up the holiday atmosphere of London, just a few days before Christmas.

Have you ever missed your connecting flight? What do you wish you had known beforehand? Share any tips I missed for how to survive a surprise overnight layover!

How to (6)

How to Make the Most of Chinese New Year in Hong Kong

How to Make the Most of Chinese New Year in Hong Kong

Chinese New Year in Hong Kong is a series of celebrations so spectacular that many mainland Chinese – along with visitors from around the world – travel to the city to join in the festivities. Each year, there are a series of events, including the iconic fireworks display over Victoria Harbour. After spending a week in Hong Kong around Chinese New Year two years ago (my second visit), it’s hands-down the time I’d recommend for a trip.

Chinese New Year follows the lunar calendar, so while it consistently takes place in late January to mid-February, the exact dates change each year – so check a calendar before planning your trip. Also, a lesser known fact that I love is that in the Chinese calendar (depending on which approach you subscribe to), the new year is around 4715! Just a wee bit ahead of the Gregorian calendar. This is obviously representative of the long history of Chinese dynasties and how long they’ve been keeping track.

If you haven’t planned for it, you’ll know you’re in Hong Kong for Chinese New Year by the abundance of orange and tangerine plants being sold at stores, displayed at hotel entrances, and located pretty much everywhere you turn. It’s considered auspicious to eat – or at least display – the fruit as the Chinese word for orange is a homophone with the word for success & the word for tangerine contains the Chinese character for luck.

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It is also traditional for people to exchange red (or otherwise decorated) lai see envelopes containing cash as a gift for good luck prosperity in the new year. In general these envelopes are given from senior to junior colleagues in an office and from married to single relatives. And it is customary not to open the envelopes in front of the giver, so you’ll see many people around town with a collection of red envelopes.

Read on for more about the Chinese New Year traditions to expect, the ways Hong Kong celebrates every year, and other sights to explore during your time in Hong Kong.

Things to Do to Celebrate the Chinese New Year

Just a wee bit crowded at the flower market

Explore the Flower Market

If you’d like to explore all of the nooks and crannies of the Flower Market at a leisurely pace, go on one of the days leading up to the eve of Chinese New Year. For the quintessential, so-crowded-you-can-barely-walk experience, head to Victoria Park after dinner on Chinese New Year eve. You’ll wait in long queues to enter, and feel as if the entire rest of Hong Kong is there with you, but that is also the most festive time and when you’ll get the deepest discounts if you’re looking to make a purchase.

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Join a Family ‘Reunion Dinner’ on New Year’s Eve

It is traditional for families to gather together on the eve of Chinese New Year for a ‘reunion dinner.’ If you’re extra lucky like me, you have family who lives in Hong Kong who will invite you to their house, where we enjoyed each other’s company and a festive meal, along with a family friend. If you have any contacts or even friends of friends there, I recommend joining one of these meals, or creating your own festive meal out with your travel companions and friends you’ve met on the road. And of course, there are traditional Chinese dishes you can seek out for good luck in the new year.

TIP! When you’re looking for food the following day (on Chinese New Year’s Day), be aware that many restaurants will have a surcharge that is a percentage of your bill added to your check. And many spots will be closed, so do your homework before you show up somewhere to dine on the national holiday. There are still some great options, especially in the more central areas, including Mak’s Noodle where I enjoyed lunch the New Year’s Day I spent there.

Well, that's one way to raise money

Attend the Parade

There is annual parade on the evening of Chinese New Year Day, on the Kowloon side of Hong Kong, beginning in the Tsim Sha Tsui (TST) area. If you plan ahead, there are spectator seats for sale, otherwise it is free to stand anywhere else along the parade route. It is a mix of traditional Chinese performances, like the dragon, as well as a variety of foreign performers who are invited to participate.

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View the Fireworks Display

I don’t exaggerate when I say that the fireworks in Hong Kong for Chinese New Year are epic. You’ll want to stake out a spot close to the Harbour in advance where you can get a good view of the 20-minute spectacle. Fireworks are set off for the New Year, as it is believed that they drive off evil spirits. The fireworks display in Hong Kong takes place each year on the evening of the day after Chinese New Year’s Day (the second day of the new year), along with a classical musical accompaniment.

TIP! As soon as the fireworks end, the hordes of people set off in search of dinner. Have a plan within walking distance for where you’ll go for dinner after the fireworks (if you haven’t already eaten) or where you’ll be able to go close to your viewing point. While the MTR (metro) and buses will be running, they will be at their most crowded, so you shouldn’t count on them as an immediate means of transportation.

(More) Things to Do in and around Hong Kong

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Victoria’s Peak

Known colloquially in Hong Kong as “the Peak,” Victoria’s Peak is located on Hong Kong Island. There is an expansive view of the Harbour and Kowloon on the other side from the summit. There is a steep trail where you can hike to the top, or a funicular tram that will get you there.

TIP! The tram can get quite crowded (especially in the Chinese New Year period), so plan to hike up by foot or go outside of this time if you can. Or even if you take the tram to the top, you can save yourself the time of waiting in the line to descend and instead hike down on foot.

Light Show

Like Singapore, Hong Kong sure knows how to take advantage of all of its tall buildings with the nightly light show at 8:00pm involving 40 (!) buildings on both sides of Victoria Harbour. If you watch from the Wan Chai promenade or outside the ICC building, you can also hear the accompanying soundtrack that really brings it to life. It’s also popular to watch it from a boat crossing the Harbour.

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Star Ferry

Yes, there is the metro that will take you across, but there is no more iconic way to cross Victoria Harbour than on the quite inexpensive Star Ferry, at least once during your visit. It runs back and forth between Hong Kong Island and the Kowloon side about every 10 minutes and gives you a great view of both skylines. If you watch it pull away or dock, you can see one of the crew members still throwing a rope by hand to attach and detach the boat.

Kowloon night market

Kowloon

A lot of tourists will stick to the Hong Kong Island side, but even if you have no tourist destinations in mind, head to the Kowloon side across the Harbour to get a very different flavor of Hong Kong life. It is more densely-populated than Hong Kong Island, and has a variety of attractions worth checking out, from the Kowloon Walled City Park (commemorating the self-contained enclave that was a crime haven throughout most of the 1900s then demolished) to the Temple Street night market.

Highest Bar in the World

Hong Kong boasts the highest bar in the world, the Ozone Bar on the 118th floor of the International Commerce Center (ICC) building, as part of the Ritz-Carlton hotel there. It is so high up that you are above the clouds, so go when it is a clear day or night for a different perspective on the Hong Kong skyline.

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Hiking

When you conjure up an image of Hong Kong, you probably envision a collection of skyscrapers, all crowded in next to each other in some of the most densely-populated neighborhoods in the world. But the truth is that the vast majority of the islands that comprise Hong Kong are undeveloped and pristine nature areas with a wealth of hiking trails to guide your path. And even if you’re staying in ‘Central’ – basically downtown Hong Kong – it’s usually just a hop on the MTR (metro) or a cheap taxi ride to arrive at the start of a hike well off the beaten path.

Museums

The one museum I visited during my visit was the Hong Kong Museum of History, which does a great job outlining different periods in Hong Kong’s founding. It provided some great context for the region that I didn’t get in the rest of my sightseeing. If museums are your thing, or you’re faced with rainy weather, there are a ton of other museums in Hong Kong to visit, from the expected (the Hong Kong Maritime Museum) to the obscure (Hong Kong International Hobby and Toy Museum).

Buddhist Temples and Sites

The two main Buddha-related sights are the Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery and Tian Tan Buddha, otherwise known as the Big Buddha. For both, you are better off visiting on a non-holiday weekday if possible. The Big Buddha, part of the Ngong Ping Village, is best accessed by the cable car that you can find adjacent to the Tung Chung MTR (metro) station. The Ten Thousand Buddhas Monastery is also metro accessible, from the Sha Tin MTR station.

TIP! Buddhist temples and tourist attractions – especially the Big Buddha – are likely to be slammed on the holiday days of the Chinese New Year, as pretty much everyone has off from work and many of those people have additional family members visiting. Reserve spots ahead of time and if possible (even with a reservation) go on the days before or after the two-day New Year holiday. Or first thing in the morning before the lines will keep you queuing for hours.

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One of the Macau market streets

Visit Macau

Macau, like Hong Kong, is also a “Special Administrative Region” of China, and is easily accessible by ferry from Hong Kong. Leading up to Chinese New Year, it will be packed during the day with Chinese mainlanders who come over for the day to stock up on holiday foods and other shopping for a fresh start to the new year. However, not only is it great to experience the decorations for lunar new year interspersed with the Portuguese flavor of this former colonial outpost, there are a lot of great deals on hotel accommodations in this period.

 

What’s your favorite Chinese New Year tradition? And what are the best places where you’ve celebrated Chinese New Year before? Let me know in the Comments below!

Happy travels, and I wish you all a very happy Chinese New Year – gong hei fat choi!!

Lana

How to Make the Most of

Travel Checklists & Why Even the Most Experienced Traveler Needs Them

Travel Checklists & Why Even the Most Experienced Traveler Needs Them

We’ve all been there. You think you’ve packed everything, done a thorough check, and then ten minutes after you’ve left for the airport you remember – that key item you meant to bring, that will now sit at home for the duration of your time away. Sometimes for me it’s even hours later that I suddenly realize in a panic what it is that I’ve forgotten.

Fortunately it’s usually some non-essential item I can do without. And after that one time in Washington, DC that I forgot my passport at home (and very luckily had time to metro back, retrieve it, and still make my flight), I always do a final check walking out the door that at a minimum I have my passport and ATM/credit cards so I have a way to buy anything else I may have forgotten.

But the danger area for so many travelers – and especially us frequent travelers – is that you get complacent and have this false sense of security that you know what you’re doing when booking travel. Which is of course when you make the most egregious oversights and end up stuck with an inconvenient travel itinerary or miserable hotel booking. Checklists may seem elementary, but even experts get better results by using them, as many doctors can attest to.

This past summer, when in the course of a week I had inadvertently booked a smoking hotel room & a friend who’s also a frequent traveler booked a flight for 6am instead of 6pm, I knew that I had to put up some booking checklists on the website, both for me and also for all those other travelers out there. Before clicking that “confirm” button to commit to a flight booking or hotel reservation, run through the relevant checklist now in the Travel Savvy Gal ‘Travel Resources’ section:

Travel Checklist: Booking Flights

Before purchasing your next flight, do a quick check of these items, especially if you’re comparing the costs of multiple itineraries

Travel Checklist: Booking Accommodations

Things to check to ensure you don’t have any unpleasant surprises when you arrive on holiday

Travel Checklist: To Do List (Pre-Trip)

Things to check or look into *before* you take your next trip

Travel Checklist: Packing Must Haves (everything else you can buy in a pinch)

Your last reality check before you walk out the door

 

What is on *your* travel checklist??

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