Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

August 9, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Impressions

Berlin is very different from other German cities I’ve visited, and at some moments does not feel like Germany at all. It has this young, industrial bustle, is teeming with hipsters, and embraces ethnic food and the latest trends. However, there are still moments when you feel like you could be in any European city and not Berlin specifically: walking along the tree-lined Kurfürstendamm for high-end shopping, or strolling the Alexanderplatz hunting for bargains with the masses at TK Maxx (yes, just like TJ Maxx).

Modern Berlin is a city of contradictions. It is both distinct and anonymous. I’ve heard it compared to Austin, Texas, which is a city in Texas that has such a different flavor than other Texas cities, and sometimes doesn’t feel like Texas. A pretty apt comparison, in fact.

Berlin is both rule-following and rebellious. I was there when Germany beat Slovakia in the Round of 16 of the 2016 Euro Cup. The Germans went wild celebrating in their cars, driving up the main streets with German flags streaming out of the car windows and honking their horns for hours. But the cars also proceeded in a very orderly manner, taking great care not to block the second lane reserved for buses. And while the bus drivers who monitor tickets by hand and the U-bahn and S-bahn run like clockwork, I saw many Germans ignoring the rules – smoking on train platforms and drinking on board.

Oh, and the history. I thought I knew about Berlin during the Cold War, East and West Germany, the Berlin wall. I didn’t realize how much I didn’t know until visiting Berlin. I think I was most surprised by everything I learned about the Berlin wall. I was not alive when it went up, although I remember watching the wall come down on TV. And I even visited the largest (unchanged) section of the Wall outside of Germany in the late 1990s when it was part of an outdoor display of the Newseum in DC. But somehow I managed to escape that time period without a coherent understanding of what the wall was and how it came into being.

The first “wall” was really just a wall of soldiers that appeared overnight in 1961. People went to bed one night with free passage to family and friends in the other sectors of Berlin, and woke up to a human barrier around East Berlin that was already in the process of being converted into a physical wall.

For me, understanding the suddenness of the shift helped to explain some of the desperation I read and heard about the various escape attempts from East to West Berlin: the twenty-something student who wanted to reunite with his parents, the 80-year old woman who wanted to join her daughter. Both perished in their attempts. Or the East German border guard who jumped the wall in the early days when it was just a bunch of barbed wire, captured in this iconic photograph. Although Conrad Schumann escaped to freedom, his defection haunted him throughout his life and he committed suicide nearly a decade after the fall of the Berlin wall.

Things to Do

As you can tell, the history of Berlin really captivated me. See below for my top picks for what to do during your visit (in order of preferene within each section):

Around Town

Walking Tour

There is so much to see and history to take in, so I found it hugely helpful to have a walking tour to orient me and explain the major sites on my first afternoon. I did a tour with Original Berlin Walks that I thought was fabulous (and did not require an advance reservation, which was a plus), although there are other highly-rated walking tours available.

TIP! The walking tours that have Western meeting points typically are listed 30-minutes sooner than the Easten meeting point because you spend the first half-hour traveling east together. Unless you’re nervous, about finding the spot for yourself, arrange your itinerary for the day to arrive at the eastern meeting point at the appointed time.

TIP! While there is a small discount for booking online in advance, there is an even bigger discount if you have the Berlin Welcome Card, and pay in person on the day.

Holocaust memorial

This is an outdoor memorial, which I recommend experiencing first-hand, and there is also a museum on site that does a good job of conveying information in a way that makes you think, even if you’ve been to other Holocaust memorials or museums.

Brandenburg gate

Icon of the city, and even more special to be able to visit it today since it was inaccessible while the Berlin Wall stood. You are likely to come across this during your visit, even if you do not actively seek it out.

Jüdisches Museum

Different from the museum at the Holocaust memorial, because it gives a window into Jewish life in Germany both before and after. Famous architect Daniel Libeskind designed some of the newer sections, and the temporary art exhibit upstairs was also very good when I visited.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie

This was probably one of the least user-friendly museums I’ve ever visited, because the written materials are written in long-form in four languages and is very hard to follow and glean key details. Despite the super-long blurbs, it is very cool to see the memorabilia that has been accummulated in the private collection, especially of methods people used to escape from East Berlin, from the more well-known car compartments to the more obscure surfboards and hot air balloon.

Checkpoint Charlie

It is cool to see the place where this border crossing once stood, although the current checkpoint is a reproduction. Named “Charlie” because the checkpoints were named consecutively using the phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie). This third American checkpoint was the most visible while the Wall still stood.

Neue Synagoge

Although this was once the main synagogue in Berlin, it has not been fully reconstructed. It is still stunning from the outside (it is modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain), and has a history of the Berlin Jewish community, including fun tidbits like the “well-known violin concert” given there in 1930 by none other than Albert Einstein.

Off the Beaten Path

Berlin Wall Memorial/Gedenkstatte Beliner Mauer

While there isn’t much of the wall itself left at this site, there is a moving set of poles marking the location of what by the end of its time was a much more elaborate barricade between East and West Berlin. The “Wall” really ended up being two different walls with empty space in between called “the death strip,” and this memorial marks many of the successful and failed attempts for those in East Berlin to escape. This is an open-air exhibit which will take you several hours to walk through and absorb the thorough written, audio, and video descriptions of this section of the wall. Most surprising to me was seeing a photo from when Martin Luther King Jr. visited the Berlin wall in the mid-1960s, even giving a speech on both sides of the wall. There is also a whole exhibit inside the local S-bahn Nordbahnhof stop about what happened to the metro system when the wall was up.

East Side Gallery

This is an open-air exhibit of a very long section of the Berlin Wall that has been thoughtfully decorated by artists from around the world. Worth a trip, and you can visit at any time of day. Check out this Photo Gallery of some of the most interesting sections.

Sachsenhausen

This concentration camp is accessible by train from the city center, although it takes a while to reach. There are tours available either from Berlin or on site, although I found the audio guide quite useful during my visit. An important part of German history that I found very moving to see first-hand.

Amazing views

Reichstag Dome

This iconic building that houses the German Parliament has a glass dome with an inclined ramp that is free to visit for expansive views of Berlin, although it does require advance registration. If you are booking early enough, there is the possibility of registering on-line, and guided tour registration may also be available online if you visit when Parliament is not in session.

TIP! If, like me, you are planning last-minute, you can register in person for the same day or next day in-person from 8am. While there is a small line right at 8am, by 8:20am or so there was no wait (and it can be up to an hour wait or more in the afternoon). Be sure to bring your passport or European ID card to sign up, they let in 100 people per hour.

Fernsehturm (the TV tower)

You can buy an early-bird ticket, or just go on the early side to beat lines (and you’ll still get discounted admission if you have the Berlin Welcome Card). There is an indoor viewing window where you can walk around at your leisure and appreciate a fairly high-altitude view of all corners of the city. Like with the Reichstag Dome in-person ticket purchase, after the first 20-30 minutes of opening, you can get in without waiting.

Berliner Dom

The Berlin cathedral is lovely to visit and in addition to housing some exhibitions and a crypt, there is also the option (which I recommend!) of climbing several hundred stairs to get up to the walkway outside of the dome for 360-degree views of the city and some exhilirating fresh air.

Best Bites

I ate really well in Berlin. Like, really well. And I don’t say that lightly. While I sampled my fair share of ethnic food, my best bites (breakfast aside) were mostly the local specialties:

Best Breakfasts

Chipps

Chipps serves a variety of large portion breakfasts meant for people with appetites (like me), although there is the usual selection of pastries and yogurts for those looking for a more minimal meal. There >is also a vegan option for the bacon and sausage that accompanies some of the dishes, plus nice coffee and fresh juice options.

Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers

I had a wonderful Australian-style breakfast here – a flat white coffee drink with perfectly-seasoned avocado toast, and I got the addition of a poached egg. The pastries looked great as well, and while very centrally located, Father Carpenter’s is in a quaint courtyard with outdoor seating as well as the space indoors.

Best Street Food

Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap This is *the* place for kebap, a very popular street food in Berlin. I got the “usual” version here, which comes with chicken. The bread is toasted perfectly, and the proportion of ingredients was just perfect down to the spray of juice from a lemon wedge to finish. Each kebap is made to order with care, and you will wait accordingly (1 hour when I went, so go early before usual mealtimes if you can). And be sure to go to the original at Mehringdamm, as the two locals I met in line told me that the other outposts closer to the main tourist areas are not as good.

Hühnerhaus 36

Serving Berlin’s typical fried chicken, I had a perfectly crispy and flavorful 1/2 hen with the spicy garlic sauce, which also comes with a choice of salad/fries/rice/bulgur. There is the street stand and the sit-down place across the street from each other, and they are Halal. This place is off the beaten path, although not terribly far from the East Side Gallery.

Best German food

Zur Letzten Instanz

One of the 10 oldest restaurants in the world (it is rumored that Napoleon ate here once), they have been satisfying hungry customers since 1621! But don’t come only for the history, this place serves up typical German fare done well. I don’t eat pork so I ordered the one fish dish on the menu, which was just phenomenal and came with the best sauerkraut of my life. And it wasn’t very crowded for lunch on a Friday.

Marjellchen

Although reservations are recommended, I didn’t reserve, but was able to eat at the bar. This is another spot with great typical German dishes. To drink, this is a great spot to sample the local specialty: Berliner Weisse beer “mit schuss,” with rot (red – raspberry) or grün (green – woodruff) syrup.

Best overall meal

Restaurant Bieberbau. This was the only restaurant where I made a reservation, since it’s off the beaten path and I didn’t want to arrive and get turned away. They serve high-level cuisine with amazing flavors and textures, but with helpful and friendly service, and incredibly reasonable prices. And it is not pretentious at all – my kind of place. The aperitif special the night I was there was a sparkling riesling with rose syrup and the bread basket came with red wine butter and also curry apple butter, just to give you an idea of the flavor combinations and creativity you’ll experience dining here. And you can get a half glass of wine at exactly half price of a regular one, so I got to have a lot of great sips paired with the various courses. A truly satisfying dining experience.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

I’ve included a few practical tips above next to the relevant attraction. Here are a couple more general tips for Berlin:

Berlin Welcome Card

Berlin is huge! It basically developed as two different cities when the wall was up, and then was reunited as one, so there is huge sprawl. Even with unlimited public transit travel, I walked a huge amount each day. I can’t imagine *not* using public transit very heavily as a tourist.

I bought a 5-day Berlin Welcome Card, and found that it was only slightly more expensive than just getting an unlimited transit pass for the same amount of time. Plus, with the Berlin Welcome Card, I received discounts for: my walking tour, going to the top of the Fernsehturm (TV tower), the Jüdisches museum, the Neue Synagogue, and Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.

TIP! You can buy the Berlin Welcome Card ahead of time online.

TIP! If you don’t buy online, there are points of sale for the Berlin Welcome Card at both major airports. And if you buy at the airport, your initial public transit trip into the city will be included. Plus, the line was much shorter to get the Berlin Welcome Card than just a ticket for the bus.

TIP! Know in advance how many days you’d like the pass (2-6 days) and whether you want it for zones A-B for just the city or A-B-C, which includes the periphery like Potsdam.

Get a phone data plan

While I am often an advocate of sticking to WiFi connections and using phone GPS without data for navigating, I found phone data hugely helpful in Berlin. The city is huge, and if nothing else, active data is a helpful tool to navigate efficiently on public transit from one location to another.

Have you visited Berlin before? What was the highlight for you? And what was the most surprising part of its history did you learn during your visit? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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What It’s Like to Go Up Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, World’s Tallest Building

March 30, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

Honestly, I wasn’t expecting to enjoy Dubai.

I knew Dubai was highly commercialized, a city that was constantly focused on building the latest modern skyscraper and where foreigners outnumber locals by a margin of around 10 to 1. I had transited through before, but never left the airport. But this trip, with my Emirates airline status on the verge of expiring, I figured it was worth it to finally spend a few days in the city. If nothing else, I could take in the spectacle. Plus, my sister who joined me for the week-long road trip in Oman was interested in visiting as well.

What I didn’t expect? Getting caught up in the sense of wonder, feeling like a child in awe of seeing something incredible for the first time.

In a way, it felt as if I had never seen a city or tall buildings before, because Dubai was a city like none I’d ever seen. Even visiting the Empire State Building and World Trade Center as a young kid, I had a sense ahead of time of what to expect. So while I was impressed by the sheer stature of those New York landmarks of my childhood, they looked like buildings I had seen before, just taller versions.

Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, the world’s current tallest building, is different. Instead of a square or rectangular base, each floor is shaped like the letter Y with curved edges. The outer silhouette has sections of tower reaching staggered heights, producing an aesthetically pleasing effect. It sparkles with a silver sheen during the day, and projects colored lights at night. It is quite simply, a work of art.

The Burj Khalifa is also impressively high. It dwarfs the next tallest buildings and radio towers in the world by a healthy margin. Its height noticeably exceeds Dubai’s surrounding cityscape. In fact, the Burj Khalifa is so high that people on the uppermost floors must wait several additional minutes to break the Ramadan fast compared to the rest of Dubai, because they have a few extra minutes of sunlight each day!!

Fortunately as a modern skyscraper, in addition to its commercial and residential spaces, the Burj Khalifa also offers spaces for your average tourist: The Observation Decks.

Despite the hefty price tag, I had a wonderful experience lingering and taking in the views from the Observation Decks. So much so, that my sister had to practically tear me away when she started getting hungry for dinner and I was still standing outside, happily mesmerized by the lights of the city.

Do I recommend that you visit the Burj Khalifa while you’re in Dubai? Absolutely. But there are definitely things that are helpful to know in advance, including what to expect during your time on the observation decks. Read on for all the details…

Buying Tickets

First, visiting the Burj Khalifa will be busier at certain times that you should avoid, if possible. In the Middle East, the weekend falls on Friday and Saturday, so plan your visit for another day of the week if you can. And of course Dubai as a whole will have more visitors during typical holiday times like around Christmas and New Year’s.

If you have limited time in Dubai and have only a small window to visit the Burj Khalifa, you’ll probably want to purchase your tickets in advance online here for your desired time slot. Internet purchase of tickets is also a good option during the busiest tourist periods to avoid extra queuing.

If you’re uncertain about your schedule while in Dubai (and it’s not the winter school break), purchasing tickets in person is a feasible option as well. My sister and I bought our tickets in person, about an hour before our scheduled time. When you arrive, there is one line for those who already have tickets and are waiting to enter and a different line to purchase tickets, so be sure you’ve joined the correct one.

As for admission, this is where it gets a bit complicated. There are two main types of tickets, ones for “At the Top SKY” and others for “At the Top.” The basic “At the Top” tickets grant you access to the Level 125 Observation Deck and the exhibits on Level 124. The “At the Top SKY” ticket also offers access to the Observation Deck on Level 148, followed by the same levels as the basic one.

There is also a big price difference for prime hours, when tickets within each tier are more expensive. For Level 125, prime hours are only between 15:30-18:00, with entry times both before and after being considered non-prime. For the top Observation Deck on Level 148, prime hours all day until 18:00, with non-prime prices only kicking in after 6pm.

So, what did we do? My sister and I figured that this would be our one and only visit to the Burj Khalifa, so opted for “At the Top SKY” with access to Level 148. Although we did wait until after 6pm so we could get the discounted non-prime prices.

And yes, the view is *different* up there! Level 148’s observation deck is about 100 meters (over 300 feet) higher than the one on Level 125, so offers a bit of a different perspective on the city. It’s also far less crowded due to the higher ticket price, so it was much more pleasant to stroll around outside and far easier to get pictures of the view.

Entering the Burj Khalifa

The entrance to the Burj Khalifa is found inside the Dubai Mall, which is easily accessible on the Dubai metro system. Although be warned, the walk from the metro station to the mall is long, and then it’s a bit more walking to arrive at the Burj Khalifa entrance, so leave plenty of extra time to arrive. Taking into account, of course, that you’re meant to be there a bit before your scheduled time.

The line for entering can be easily confused with the separate line for buying tickets, so be sure you’ve joined the correct queue. And then you’re let past the entranceway and the full Burj Khalifa experience begins!

There are a few displays about the construction of the Burj Khalifa, and then you are ushered into a staging room where they distract you briefly with coffee and dates.

Coffee and dates are an essential part of Middle Eastern hospitality. Sip and enjoy if you’d like, although honestly these were not the best versions of either item during my travels in the Middle East. Plus, if you’re doing the SKY experience that takes you to Level 148 like we did, I’d say it’s worth waiting for the refreshments at the top.

The best part of the lead-up to the Observation Deck for me was the elevator. When was the last time you were in an elevator where the floors went above 150?!? Although Level 148 was our destination, our elevator had floors listed up to 154.

Level 148: “At the Top SKY”

Arriving at the SKY level on floor 148 is like entering your own private gala. Well-attired servers are circulating, and within moments of arriving they’ll offer you selections from a tray of snacks and a tasty (non-alcoholic, of course) beverage. My choices? A vanilla mini-macaroon and a date stuffed with marzipan. Very delicious, and I felt oh-so-chic.

If you’re like me, after the food serves as a brief distraction, you’ll be drawn to the floor-to-ceiling windows to check out the view. Your initial disappointment that the windows are not particularly clean and in the way of the view will fall by the wayside as you realize that the outdoor observation decks are where it’s at! The glass is quite clear there and you’ll have fabulous vistas over Dubai in all directions as you stroll the length of the outdoor areas.

I think the total visit for us lasted around 2 hours, and a good hour-and-a-half of that time was spent on the outdoor observation area on Level 148. It’s captivating, and I couldn’t get enough!

TIP! It is chilly at the top. Even if it’s sweltering at ground level, you’re so high up it can get cold (especially at night) and it can also be windy since you’re several hundred meters in the air. Bring layers of clothing, so you’re not tempted to cut your enjoyment of the outdoor areas short.

In addition to the stunning views (and lots of people striking a pose, us included), we also had the good fortune to be on this outdoor area when the light show began after dark. It’s fascinating in a completely different way to be up close and personal as the lights move and change color along the building itself.

Level 125: “At the Top”

The next part of the visit (whenever you manage to tear yourself away) takes you down to Level 125, which will be your initial destination if you opt for the more basic ticket. The outdoor space is larger than on 148, but it is also much more crowded. And as I mentioned, even though you might not expect it, being so many floors down offers a different perspective and view of the city.

The bulk of the exhibits are between Levels 125 with the outdoor area and Level 124, which is accessible with both ticket options. Just when we expected to be at the end of things to see, there was one more turn, one more area to explore, before heading back down to ground level.

Yes, this queen of getting ‘hangry’ delayed dinner to be able to have one last glimpse – or let’s be real, several – of the captivating view from the observation deck (apologies to my poor sister!). Ascending the Burj Khalifa was a carefully curated visit that I found worth it for the unparalleled views of Dubai, resulting in an incredible overall experience that goes far beyond crossing an item off my bucket list.

Have you been to Dubai? Were you as wowed as I was? What other tips do you have for someone visiting the Burj Khalifa for the first time?

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How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

January 20, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Solo travel can look like so many different things, and is one of the most rewarding things I have done as a frequent traveler. I love having a buddy (or several) to share my travel adventures with, but there is a totally different perspective and awareness that comes from taking a trip just for you. Most destinations have an abundance of organized activities as well as plenty of things you can do solo, so you really can tailor the trip to what is best for you personally, or most comfortable. And you can still eat incredibly well while traveling alone. Even though I’ve been a solo traveler for nearly two decades, I keep planning (and savoring) solo trips, and have now visited over a dozen countries on my own.

Below I break it down into my step-by-step process for how I plan my solo trips, whether it’s for a weekend or a month. Follow the process one step at a time, and before you know it you’ll be on your first trip on your own!

Planning…

Step 1: Pick the amount of time you’ll travel.

This sounds basic, but it’s hugely important. If this will be your first solo trip, you’ll probably want to keep it to a day or weekend, so you can get a taste for solo travel without feeling too overwhelmed or stressed with the planning. Sometimes the amount of time will be dictated by your available vacation time from work or a period of time in between trips already planned with other people. In any case, decide on something reasonable that fits with your free time, level of comfort, and budget.

Step 2: Pick a destination.

This step can be done interchangeably with Step 1. Sometimes I block off time to travel and then pick where I’ll go & other times I have somewhere I want to visit and figure out how much time I have available to spend there. In any case, picking a destination is related to your free time, as you probably won’t want to venture too far for a weekend trip, but might spend 20 hours flying to go away for a month. Take into account how expensive a destination is (both to get there & once you arrive), whether you speak the language, and if there are enough things you’re interested in doing for the time you’ve set aside.

Step 3: Book transportation.

This step for me is always the point at which things go from me dreaming about a trip to it becoming R-E-A-L. If you book a flight in the US, you have 24 hours to change your mind, but most other US transportation options – and certainly international ones – are typically non-refundable or can only be changed with a hefty fee. So for me, booking my transportation to and from a place is when I feel committed. Figure out if it’s best for you to arrive by car, bus, train, or plane, look into economical options that work with your schedule. And of course, don’t forget to take a minute to run down my Travel Checklist for Booking Flights, most of which applies to bus or train transportation as well. Then just pull the trigger and book!

Let’s be real, people tend to be most terrified of this step, myself included. You may think it over for so long that there are no good cheap flight options left or you let your fear get the better of you and never actually make the plan. But take a second to think about it. At this stage, you’ve already decided where to go and for how long, so the hard part is over. Don’t think too much about it, and just book. Now you’re going on a trip!! And it’ll be great =)

Step 4: Decide how you’ll split your trip between time on your own vs. organized tours.

When I have a solo trip planned for anything longer than a weekend, I typically plan at least one formal tour. Not only is this a great way to get to know a place while hosted by locals or experts, it is a social activity that can be a nice way to break up time sightseeing on your own. I also use organized tours as a way to meet others, including (but not only!) other solo travelers. This is also your chance to decide how much time feels right for you to be traveling on your own. If this is your first solo trip, you might want to schedule some form of planned activity each day you’ll be traveling. Or every other day. Perhaps you like to explore new places at your own pace and will only schedule a single day activity for a week on the road.

This is your chance to be real with yourself about what feels comfortable and works for you. And the good news? There’s no wrong way to take a solo trip! Do it in a way so you don’t feel overwhelmed or in over your head. For me, if I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll book only a single tour – or even none at all. If I don’t have a lot of planning time, or will be too exhausted from a previous trip, I’ll slot in more activities in advance. You can get a better feel for what this balance might look like in the next section, where I share the details of previous solo trips I’ve taken. Of course, if you decide to not plan any organized activities ahead of time, skip straight to Step 5.

Step 5: Book accommodations.

The only reason I am putting this step after outlining your rough overview of your trip is because some organized tours or trips may involve overnights where you’re sleeping arrangements are taken care of (see more about my Thailand trip in the next section), so you’ll want to know which nights are not accounted for before booking where you’ll stay. Your style of travel may typically involve familiar chains or boutique hotels, but if you are traveling solo I’d also recommend that you consider booking accommodations where you can meet others easily, like a hostel. Many hostels offer private room options if you’re not interested in having a bed in a communal dorm room, and often will host other solo travelers who might be looking for a sightseeing companion for a day or afternoon. They are also great sources of information on local tours and excursions, and can often book these for you directly. Regardless of which type of accommodation you choose, be sure to run down my Travel Checklist for Booking Accommodations.

I urge you that even if your days are unplanned, to book accommodations ahead of time, so you know where you’ll be resting your head each night. Even if you’re a seasoned solo traveler who chooses to not book and leave it up in the air, at a minimum take a few minutes to search and do a reality check that there’s still decent availability on the nights you’ll be somewhere – not every destination has a wealth of places to stay or there may be a convention or special event in town you didn’t know about that has most places already booked up. In which case, you will probably want to go ahead and reserve accommodations in advance.

Step 6: Rent a car (if applicable).

Honestly, I tend to shy away from renting a car when I’m traveling on my own. Street signs, especially in a foreign country, can range from confusing to being displayed in a different alphabet from your own. And navigating can also present challenges, even if you have a data plan for your phone or have rented a GPS along with the vehicle. Personally I like driving in a strange place with a buddy, so one person can drive and the other help navigate, although I have rented a car on my own in more familiar locales. If you do go this route, be sure in advance that you’ll really be comfortable doing so, and also check out my road trip tips – some of these are Europe-specific but many apply to any time you’re renting a car or taking a road trip.

Step 7: Figure out if there are any restaurants that you’ll want to reserve in advance.

Sometimes for me this step is quite quick, involving a cursory internet search to discover that I’ll probably want to stick to low-key places or that there are no “fancy” restaurants or local hot spots I really want to sample that would involve a reservation. In other cases, I’ll get caught up scouring many excellent options and reserve one or several places for dinner around any organized tours I’ve already planned. Again, specific to your level of comfort, you can eat street food for all of your meals, plan all your meals at sit-down establishments, or anticipate a mix of sit-down places and eating on the go. There are a great variety of restaurant types that are friendly to the solo diner, and of course you can pretty much always find a place to eat, even without advance planning.

Step 8: Do as much (or as little) additional research as you’d like.

For certain trips, I’ll spend weeks intermittently looking into sights to see and places I’d like to eat while I’m there. Sometimes for me this is flipping through a guidebook at the airport waiting for my flight, or during the train ride or flight itself. Or posting a plea on Facebook a few days beforehand requesting begging for recommendations from friends who have previously visited a certain destination. This is another step that is really up to you in terms of how much, if any, effort you put into it, depending on your comfort level and how much of your trip you’d like to be planned out in advance.

*NOTE: Regardless of your level of advance planning, still check out the “Before you go” section below for the essentials to definitely complete before your trip begins, regardless of how much other planning you’ve done ahead of time.

Details of actual solo trips I’ve taken!

I’ve given a detailed run-down of my trip planning for my week-long solo trip to Thailand in 2015, plus an overview of one shorter and one longer solo trip I’ve done to give you an idea of what your trip might look like – and how little planning it takes to flesh out an itinerary for a week away on your own.

Berlin, Germany (long weekend)

There are an abundance of walking tours in Berlin, so while I didn’t buy a ticket ahead of time, I did research into the meeting spots and times for different options, and ended up having a great introduction to the city with an experienced guide. I also blocked off one day to visit the Sachsenhausen concentration camp, which has an audioguide and the option of an in-person guide as well. Then I left my other two days unplanned, although I did do advance research into restaurants to try and sightseeing options. You can find more details about my favorite spots and best Berlin meals in the blog post I wrote here.

Thailand (1 week)

Steps 1 & 2: My solo trip in Thailand was actually my second time visiting the country, and I chose to spend a week there between the northern town of Chiang Mai and Bangkok, the capital.

Step 3: I knew I wanted to spend most of my time in Chiang Mai (which I had missed on my first trip), then went ahead and booked my flights to and from Bangkok, with a side round-trip flight to Chiang Mai.

Step 4: In terms of activities, I was interested in spending so much time in Chiang Mai to be able to do a 2-day meditation retreat and also some rock climbing. After looking into some options, I realized that I could do an overnight homestay as part of a climbing and zip-lining trip, so booked that as well. That was just enough organized activity, although I did meet another female traveler at my hostel who arrived a day before her travel companion, and we spent my first afternoon in town exploring Chiang Mai together.

I had two full days in Bangkok, and booked one organized activity there – a night tour of the city by tuk-tuk, including street food and sightseeing. I sought out this option after knowing from my previous trip both how hot the city can get during the day and also how difficult it can be at times to navigate between different neighborhoods.

Step 5: I booked a private room in a hostel in Chiang Mai for the nights I wasn’t away (2 of my excursions were overnight), and then reserved a bed in an all-female dorm in Bangkok (close to the MRT stop where the airport express arrived). Saving money on my Bangkok accommodation let me splurge on my meals there =)

Step 6: Nope, no rental car.

Step 7: I knew I wanted to eat at nahm in Bangkok, one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants,” so I made a reservation for my last night in town. Their tasting menu ended up being well-suited to the solo traveler, since there was a lot of choice across several categories of dishes with the portion size being adapted to the number of people at the table. And my meal was absolutely delicious, and good value compared to tasting menus in Europe, Australia, or the US since the prices were in Thai Baht, the local currency.

Step 8: I did a bit of additional planning about sights I had missed in Bangkok on my first visit, and spots to check out around Chiang Mai. My list ended up being broken down into “EAT” and “DO” sections, with some vague entries like “temples” and “get massages!” along with specific items, like visiting the Jim Thompson house in Bangkok.

Mexico (5 weeks)

The part that was planned ahead of time was my time in each general area, as I did book a few flights within Mexico to get between different regions. I actually did pretty much nothing though in terms of planning organized tours in advance, although I did hire guides on the spot at several tourist attractions and joined a lot of day tours that I arranged through the hostels where I stayed. There were also several important religious celebrations taking place over my trip, so I planned to be in proximity to where I could celebrate on the pertinent dates.

Want more details on the nitty gritty of planning a solo trip? Something else you’re still unclear about that you’d like me to cover in a future blog post? Let me know in the Comments!

Before you go…

The amount of advance planning I do depends on all sorts of factors, from how I’m feeling about a trip to how much planning I think I need to do to get the most out of a destination. Your level of planning will probably vary as well from trip to trip, depending on how much free time you have, your motivation, and how important you think prior planning will be to your enjoyment when you travel. Regardless of how much activity planning and restaurant scouring you decide to do, there are some non-negotiables for me when it comes to solo travel:

Know how to get from your arrival point to your accommodation. Please, please, please don’t wait until after you’ve arrived to realize that you have no clue how to get from the airport or train station to your hotel. It’s much less stressful to have a plan in advance, and you can’t always count on having helpful information desks accessible (or with English-speaking staff on hand). Plus, one of the best ways to keep safe as a solo traveller is to know where you are headed – or at least look like you do – at all times.

Send your detailed itinerary and a scan of your passport to a trusted friend or family member. It’s always good to have a copy of your travel plans with someone who is not traveling with you. Especially if you go off on your own, like I did on the hike in Liechtenstein pictured above. Hopefully it won’t need to be accessed, but it’s good to have someone with those details just in case.

Print hard copies of all of these details. Technology is wonderful, but it doesn’t always work when we need it most. Be sure to have your accommodation confirmation and directions on how to arrive there in hard copy, as well as a copy of your itinerary and a photocopy of the main page of your passport. I usually keep a copy in my purse and also in one of my carry-on bags so everything is duplicated.

Of course, while these three things are especially important for solo travel, they are not the only steps I recommend to prepare for travel. Check out my Pre-Trip Travel Checklist for more on how you can be best prepared by the time you arrive.

And for some additional safety tips to keep in mind before you go and as you travel, check out these Essential Tips from The Blonde Abroad (which are aimed at solo female travellers, but really good advice for everyone!)

On the road…

I have a few final words to the wise for the time you’re actually on your solo trip, so you can make the most of your time away:

Trust your instincts. You already know when a situation doesn’t feel quite right or something is just ‘off’ about a place. Or a person walks into your train car or sits next to you at a bar and you feel instantly on edge. Especially as a solo traveler, don’t be afraid to walk away from an uncomfortable situation, even if you’ll look silly in the process. Feeling silly for a moment trumps compromising your safety. Every time.

Do what you *want* to do, not what you feel like you *should* be doing. This is a trap that a lot of travelers fall into, not just ones adventuring on their own. There is probably a list for your chosen travel destination of “must see places” or “must have experiences.” Those are great places to start your planning, but don’t feel compelled to do something just because everyone else is too. Sometimes my first hours in a new place have been walking the strip malls in the local neighborhood because that is all I felt up for doing, instead of heading to a top tourist attraction. Or passing up an outdoor adventure an hour-long bus ride away that sounded amazing to have a quiet day in town instead. It’s okay, even if the thing you feel like you should be doing (but don’t want to in the moment) is something you’ve already planned for.

Check in with yourself as you go. It’s a good idea to consciously touch base with your own travel desires every few hours or daily on your solo trip.

Are you feeling too planned and want more open time to wander?
Feel lonely and want to book an extra organized tour or guide at a specific sight?
Want some down time in a green space reading a book on your own?

Don’t be afraid to deviate from any previous plan you might have had – being able to change your plan at a moment’s notice is one of the advantages of solo travel. This is your chance to make adjustments so you enjoy your time even more!

Solo travel can sound intimidating, but really it’s an opportunity to customize a trip exactly to your own travel style and feelings in the moment. It’s a hugely liberating feeling to be able to make all of the travel decisions based on what you alone want, and is a great way to connect with those desires. And it also is not limited to being on your own every minute of every day. Solo travel for most is really a blend of organized activities and tours that take place with others along with sightseeing and wandering alone. So take it one step at a time and get out there!

What was the hardest part for you before you took your first solo trip? Or what things still frighten you, even after reading this step-by-step guide? I’ll address any concerns you still have personally.

And do you have any solo travel tips I haven’t already mentioned? Fire away in the Comments below!

Best Views in Stockholm, Sweden

April 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

In any new place, I search for a high spot where I can overlook the city or surrounding area, so I knew I’d be seeking out the best views in Stockholm on my visit last summer. I’ll pretty much go anywhere to see a sweeping vista, whether it’s an elevator ride to the top of a tall building (like ascending the Burj Khalifa in Dubai and Berlin’s TV Tower), climbing hundreds of stairs to the top of a tower (like I’ve done in Cremona and Florence) or trekking to the tops of hills (which I did on a random island in Oman and in Plovdiv, Bulgaria).

Yes, I like to find lookout points when I travel. Guilty as charged.

Before visiting Stockholm for the first time, there were many things I didn’t realize. For example, I didn’t know Stockholm was a city on water, composed of over a dozen islands and forming Sweden’s larges archipelago.

This means that in Stockholm there are pretty fabulous views any time you’re on the edge of one of the many islands, or crossing a bridge on foot. Ditto for any time you’re up one of Stockholm’s hills or sloping streets, where you can get a peek out over the city. And of course, there are many high-up vantage points as well.

With summer approaching again, Scandinavia will be quite the popular destination in the coming months, although if you haven’t booked a trip yet, consider visiting after summer.

This list of the best views in Stockholm is focused on elevated viewpoints, where you get a sweeping view of the city, and also includes some memorable spots at ground level to take in the scenery. Enjoy!

Best Views

Skeppsholmsbron

This bridge connects the Blasieholmen peninsula of central Stockholm to the island of Skeppsholmen. What makes it worth seeking out for a photo and one of the best views in Stockholm? The many gilded, golden crowns atop the iron bridge railings, which make for a wonderful shot of the city with both the crown and the view:

Skinnarviksberget

This highest point in Södermalm is also the highest natural point in central Stockholm, with views to match. There are actually several viewpoints in relatively close proximity, including Ivar Los Park and Katarinahissen (see below), but I like this one the best. This also seems to be the spot locals prefer.

First, it is further off the beaten path and a bit harder to access – by a dirt path at the end of Gamla Lundagatan street – so there are far fewer people. In fact, the morning that I went up, I was the *only* person there for nearly a half hour, and even then only a few other people arrived. Plus, check out this view:

Other Good Vantage Points

Millesgården

Formerly the home of world-renowned sculptor Carl Milles, the Millesgården is open to the public now as an art museum, with a sculpture garden featuring his works. It is from the garden that you’ll get one of the best views of Stockholm on the far side of the central part of the city and out toward the archipelago. Great for a very different perspective of the city:

Ivar Los Park

It’s a bit of a stroll to get here no matter how you arrive, but this quaint park with greenery and benches is along the Södermalm coast facing central Stockholm and the island of Gamla Stan, like the Skinnarviksberget view mentioned above as my top lookout spot.

If you don’t have time to make it to Skinnarviksberget, the park offers a very similar view, although you may encounter other tourists when you go. There were a few people when I visited, but if you’re lucky you can still score a seat at one of the many benches and take some time to enjoy this view:

Katarinahissen

This was far more popular than the Skinnarviksberget and Ivar Los Park lookouts on Södermalm, since it is right by a metro stop and a bridge from the island of Gamla Stan. Originally known as the Katarina Elevator, unfortunately the elevator is not working right now, although there are wooden stairs that you can climb to the top. Also at the top is the Eriks Gondolen restaurant, where you can grab a coffee or a meal and enjoy one of the best views in Stockholm:

Fjällgatan

Still on Södermalm, but on the other side of Gamla Stan, is what was by far the most crowded scenic point, although being further down the coast, the perspective of the city is a bit different. Tour bus after tour bus rounds the corner of the road leading up to the lookout, and offloads dozens of passengers, so it can get quite crowded. I ended up here twice last July, once for a quick stop on a tour bus and once on foot, and it was packed both times.

If you stroll away from the corner where the buses line up, you can get a less-crowded view from the small park with a little patch of greenery, but you’ll still have plenty of company. The view remains lovely:

Central Coastline

Walking pretty much anywhere along the water will offer beautiful, and different, views. I enjoyed hugging the coastline of Central Stockholm, starting by the Centralstation train stop and heading east to Skeppholmsbron (see above) and beyond. The coastline of the island of Gamla Stan also offers lovely vistas along the water, especially close to The Royal Palace and entrance to Old Town:

Of course, there are countless ways to see a city, and while I made it to quite a few stunning viewpoints, I didn’t quite make it everywhere. If you’ve already scoped out the best views in Stockholm above, there are a few other options for lookout spots to explore.

First, there are many boat rides that will give you a whole new perspective on the city, from short loops to longer tours of the archipelago. I was having too much fun exploring on foot to make this a priority during my visit, but it is definitely something to seek out in Stockholm if you have the time.

There are also two other high-up viewpoints that weren’t as high a priority for me. Kaknästornet, the TV tower with an observation deck, was just enough off the beaten path that I didn’t make it there. Also, the very central Stadhuset, the City Hall which also has a lookout tower. I was enjoying the outdoor lookout points in the beautiful, sunny weather during my visit, and limited the time I spent indoors. But both would be great spots to see the city as well.

And if you’d like to read more about what it’s like to visit Stockholm, check out which unexpected food you should seek out in the city and where I had my best meals there.

Do you seek out high viewpoints when you travel, too? Or is there something else that you like to do everywhere you visit? Any other Stockholm views you’d recommend that didn’t make my list? Share in the Comments below.

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Top Tips to Avoid the Biggest Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

April 18, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Every country has its own way of doing things, and Italy is no exception. While some mistakes tourists make in Italy are part of the adventure of travel, other errors can be very time-consuming or expensive to resolve. When I travel, I try to be aware of the most common pitfalls I could possibly encounter, and do some research to avoid them.

Preparing for a trip to Italy? Here’s what you need to know to make the most of your time there, and avoid the mistakes that many tourists make.

TRAVELING AROUND ITALY

The most efficient way to get around between cities are the high-speed trains, or regional trains for less-travelled routes. The main train companies are TrenItalia and Italo, and both have English versions of their websites available.
If you’re being more flexible with your plans, you can buy your train ticket at the last minute at one of the electronic kiosks, which also offer multiple languages.
Don’t plan on waiting until the last train, as sometimes trains are quite delayed or cancelled.
If you don’t have a person or turnstile taking your ticket, be sure to validate your train ticket before boarding. There is usually a small box on the train platform where you can insert your ticket to validate. Fines can be high if you don’t, and this is something that does get checked relatively frequently.

RESTAURANTS

If there is a particular place you’d like to eat at for lunch or dinner, whether it’s an upscale spot or simply a popular trattoria, make a reservation. You can usually get a reservation the day or two before – or even earlier the same day – but if you show up at dinner time on the night, you might be refused.
Usually the first question when you sit down will be about water, whether you want to drink naturale (still water) or frizzante/gassata (sparkling water), so have an answer ready. Italians don’t drink tap water.
Service may not be as attentive as in your home country, which is simply the Italian way. If there is something you need – including the check – flag someone down and ask.
Some restaurants will bring the bill to the table, others will direct you to pay at the cassa, the cash register.
Typically restaurants include a coperto, a cover charge for service and bread, which is listed on the menu and will show up on your bill.
Tipping is not expected if there is a coperto, although you are welcome to leave small change or an additional tip if you’d like.
Don’t refuse your receipt. By law you must have the receipt for 100 meters after leaving the restaurant (this is to ensure that the restaurant has paid taxes, not that you have paid). Yes, I’ve been chased out of a restaurant by a server after leaving my receipt behind.

BARS

In Italy, “bar” means a place to get coffee and a pastry, although many will serve alcohol as part of aperitivo. Or first thing in the morning, if you ask…
At many bars you pay first, and then show your receipts to the barista to be served.
Traditionally, coffee (and your pastry) is consumed standing at the bar in a few quick minutes. You have the option of sitting at some bars, although it is possible you will be charged a coperto (see ‘Restaurants’ section above) if you do. In touristy areas, this might be exorbitant.
In the evening, the bar that was your morning coffee shop often morphs into your happy hour spot, where you can enjoy an aperitivo, consisting of a pre-dinner drink and some food, which will range from some small nibbles to a full buffet

WINE TOURISM

If you’re wine tasting and would like to buy wine to take home, it helps to have a car to transport the heavy load. Many wineries ship internationally, but prices can be quite high. It can be more cost-effective to pay for extra airline baggage packed with bottles of wine (or utilize your baggage allowance wisely) than to ship them. Plan your wine packing in advance, and you’ll save hundreds of Euros.

MISCELLANEOUS

In the bathroom, when in doubt, look for a foot pedal (or inconspicuous button on the wall) to flush a toilet or operate the faucet to wash your hands. I’ve seen tourists linger in the bathroom for a long time trying to figure this out!

If you’re really committed to blending in during your visit, you’ll also want to check out my post on the Top 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local. But at a minimum, if you follow the tips above, you won’t be caught with an exorbitant fine for not validating your train ticket or be stuck waiting hours for your server to bring the check at the end of your meal. I’ve seen many mistakes tourists make in Italy, but fortunately with a few tips most can be avoided!

What other things did you wish you had known before traveling to Italy? Anything else I should include? How do you avoid the typical tourist mistakes when you travel? Share your best intel in the Comments below!

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The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

April 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Valpolicella and Soave are two of my favorite Italian wine regions, and conveniently both are a short distance outside the inviting Italian town of Verona, not far from Venice. The Valpolicella region to the north of Verona specializes in various red wines with a unique production method, while the Soave region to the east produces some lovely white wines. Most consider the Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany to be the two areas with the best producers, especially for Italian reds. While both of those regions are relatively close to Milan, it was actually the Valpolicella region where I ended up most often during my three years living in Italy, usually with visitors.

The reds of Valpolicella are in a slightly different style than Super Tuscans or a Piemontese Barolo, but can be more fruity and jammy, and in general more approachable. And I know several wine lovers whose favorite Italian reds come from this area, and these are certainly some of my favorites as well. Since the wine regions around Verona are less frequented by tourists than some of the other areas, it is easier to pop into a cantina without a reservation and taste wine. And you can find delicious wines at a great value, I’d definitely recommend planning to purchase wine as you taste, and having a plan for transporting the bottles back home.

In terms of the Valpolicella region, you’ll typically see 4 main types of red wine as well as a dessert wine called Recioto. All of these are made with different combinations and processing methods of the same main grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella (and sometimes Corvinone). The first, most basic wine is called Valpolicella Classico, the classic version that is not usually aged at all. The Valpolicella Superiore, or superior version, does undergo some aging, and is intended to be a more refined version of Valpolicella.

The fourth wine (yes, I skipped #3 on purpose) called Amarone is where the typical drying process of the Valpolicella region comes into play. When the grapes are harvested in the fall, usually around September or October, instead of being pressed right away, they are spread out and left to dry for several months, which intensifies the flavor of the grapes. Then sometime around January the grapes will actually be pressed and begin the multi-year aging process. Ripasso then is partway between a Valpolicella Superiore and an Amarone, since it involves the leftover pressed grapes from Amarone being mixed with Valpolicella Classico wine. The dessert wine Recioto is more similar to the straight Amarone, with residual sugars for sweetness (and this can vary from quite sweet to more balanced depending on the producer).

You might think that because of the somewhat linear progression of red wine production in Valpolicella, that everyone would like Amarone the best, then Ripasso, and so on. But that’s actually not how things shake out at all! Even without taking external factors like winery and the harvest year into play, some wine lovers prefer Ripasso while others prefer Amarone, depending on their personal tastes. Then when you consider the year of production and each winemaker’s approach, your favorite at a particular winery might be the Valpolicella Classico or Superiore. It all depends.

Which is why I advocate for doing a wine tasting when you visit, even if you’ve been before, since you may prefer different wines than last time (even at the same winery). Usually with each visit I was trying the wines from a different production year, and I’ve made repeat visits to most of the wineries on this list. So I’ve tasted different versions of the same wine over the years depending on what has recently been bottled and is available. Even at the same producer, my tastes as to which wines are my favorite have typically changed with each season. So taste before you buy, every time you go.

That same advice holds true for the Soave region on the other side of Verona: taste during each visit, as the wine changes quite a bit from year to year, even at the same producer. Soave itself is a white wine made principally from the Garganega grape, although other white grapes are sometimes included in small amounts. Like with Valpolicella reds, there are different levels of Soave – including a Superiore – depending on whether it is aged and the details of the blend.

Many Soave wineries also have vineyards in the area growing red grapes as well, so even if you go to taste white wines, you’ll be able to try their various Valpolicella reds as well. You don’t see much Soave wine in Valpolicella, although some of those wineries will produce other types of white wine. And a recent trend in the Valpolicella region is to use the same Amarone process of drying the grapes for months, but with different types of red grapes than you’d typically see, resulting in some of my favorite sips.

I’ve had some pretty fabulous wine tastings in the Valpolicella and Soave regions over my many visits. Here are my favorite places to go, listed alphabetically by region:

Valpolicella

Accordini Igino

Reservations: Not needed Mon-Fri, Required on Saturday

Tasting: Free, can also reserve a paid tasting paired with local food products

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

The staff is friendly and welcoming at this nearly 200-year old winery, with a light and inviting tasting room. The red wines typical of the region are solid, and they produce a few other white and red wines. I especially like their Recioto dessert wine, which isn’t sickly sweet but actually quite well-balanced.

Manara

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Bianco del Veneto, Rosso del Veneto, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

If you’re a non-Italian speaker, be sure to contact the winery in advance, as the one person in the tasting room does not always speak English. Their Valpolicella range is quite good, as is their Bianco del Veneto, or white wine from the region. But my absolute favorite, and the wine I can’t get enough of is their Rosso del Veneto, a jammy red produced from non-typical grapes in the Valpolicella style of drying the grapes first to intensify the flavors. Even if it’s not offered, be sure to ask to taste this gem, the Guido Manara!

Scriani

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

This family-run winery is welcoming, and has a beautiful tasting room and cellar where you’ll taste the wines. I think I’ve visited at least three or four times, and I like their wines better each time I go. Their straight Corvina is quite good, along with the full line of Valpolicella wines.

Speri

Reservations: Not needed, although there is the option to book in advance to visit the cellar

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Sant’Urbano, Amarone, Recioto

Another family-run place, there are usually several people on hand to provide a tasting, and I’ve never had to wait more than a few minutes for an English-speaking member of the family to guide me and my visitors. The wines are excellent, and I especially like their Sant’Urbano, which is partway between a Ripasso and an Amarone in taste. They have an excellent annual olive oil production for the family, with excess bottles on sale at the winery, so take advantage if they’re still available when you go.

Soave

Cantina di Soave

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting of 5 wines, for a modest fee

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

Founded in the late 1800s, this cantina, or winery, is actually a collective of grape producers from the area, with all grapes having to meet minimum quality requirements to be used in their production. You’ll only taste a handful of wines at the end of the tour, but they are delicious, and the winery offers a wider range of wines for purchase in their shop. And the winery itself is quite beautiful.

Monte Tondo

Reservations: Not needed, although it does get crowded sometimes; must reserve for tour

Tasting: Free, fee for the tour + tasting

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

The experience visiting Monte Tondo without a reservation has been varied for me, depending on the number of other guests. If it’s not crowded, you’ll get very attentive pours and descriptions, and it can be more rushed if you’re there during a busy period or when there is a group also visiting. It’s still a good option to drop in and sample a variety of Soave whites, although there is the possibility of guaranteeing dedicated attention by reserving a formal tour and tasting with cheese and charcuterie pairing for a fee.

TIP! Other than the dates of Cantine Aperte in May and September, most wineries are closed on Sundays.

If you’ve never tried a Valpolicella red wine or a Soave white, buy a bottle (or several) to try the next time you’re at the store. And if you’re planning a trip to Italy or happen to live nearby, the wine regions around Verona are fabulous spots to go wine tasting, even if you haven’t planned anything in advance.

Happy tasting!

Lana

Any questions you still have about wine tasting in Valpolicella and Soave? Other favorite wineries you think belong on this list? Hit me up with any questions or intel you have about the region and its wines in the ‘Comments’ below.

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The Best Advice to Travel More

April 4, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“Oh, but we were going to come visit you.”

It’s a refrain I’ve heard again and again since moving back to the US from Milan, coming from many sources, from one of my sisters to friends I didn’t even know were contemplating a trip. Apparently all of these people had the best of intentions of making a trip to Italy for a visit, but never quite got around to it.

In Australia, I understood. Living in Perth for just over a year, it was hard for my American family and friends to plan a visit. From the northeast United States, it’s about 30 hours of flying – one way! – to arrive in Perth. By the time anyone could have reasonably planned a trip, I was no longer living there.

But Milan was a different story. Easily accessible by a direct flight from the US, it was pretty straightforward for Americans to plan a visit. In fact, over my three years living in Milan, visitors came from all over the United States, other parts of Europe, Asia, and even Australia (those Aussies sure love to travel).

So how is it possible that with guests streaming in from multiple continents that so many people did not make it for a visit?

The short answer? They failed to adhere to an important principle that avid travelers embrace: Just go.

There are always a million and one reasons *not* to take that trip. From the cost of traveling to taking time off of work, there are all sorts of logical-sounding justifications as to why that vacation just can’t happen. People with children complain that they can’t travel with them and that they’re too young to leave behind. Of course, my position is that you should travel anyway. Especially if you happen to know someone living in a place you’ve never visited.

If there’s anything I’ve learned in my years of travel (and having friends move to different cities and countries), it’s that even when people think they know how long they’ll be living somewhere, they usually don’t. Life happens, jobs change, people transfer universities, and move for love. Often unexpectedly and sometimes suddenly.

Which brings me to the best travel advice I can give:

When you have a friend or family member that moves to a new place, VISIT. As soon as you can.

I loved living and Milan and Italy, and am sad that more friends who had been meaning to take that trip to visit me one day did not get the opportunity while I was still there. Of course, you can always visit a destination even if you no longer know someone living there, but the experience will just not be the same. I say that it’s worth prioritizing travel to a new place when you know someone who lives there and that knowing a local will help keep costs down. I say that you can come with or without your kids, but you should still plan to go. So if you’ve been talking about visiting that friend who moved somewhere new (but you just haven’t gotten around to it), yes, I’m talking to you!

There are many upsides to visiting friends and family that have moved somewhere new. First, knowing someone in your destination can make your trip more affordable. Even if you have to shell out for a train ride or airfare to arrive, you’ll get more bang for your buck once you get there, especially if you can stay overnight with friends or family for free. Or share home-cooked meals together, eliminating the expense of eating out for at least part of your visit. Plus, while you’re there, you’ll have a local to show you around, getting an insider perspective on a destination, even if they are a transplant to the area and still exploring themselves.

When I have a friend who moves to a new place, I’m the kind of person who immediately starts strategizing about how to travel there. Especially if I know at the start that they may not live there for very long. It’s a great excuse to make it for a visit to a new destination and wonderful to share that with someone you already know.

There were the extended weekends I took while living in the US before to visit friends in Dallas and Minneapolis (and good thing I did, as neither stayed for longer than a few years). Before the start of my 5-week solo travel in Mexico, I visited a friend for a few days who was temporarily living in Mexico City. Even during college, I jumped on a plane and visited friends who were studying abroad in London and Amsterdam.

Living in Italy these past few years, I popped in to stay for a weekend with friends who I met in Milan that later moved on to live in London, Frankfurt, Geneva, and Tirana. I made it a priority to get to see Bucharest and some surrounding parts of Romania with a friend who’s from there originally. As well as visiting Hong Kong, Israel, and Singapore while friends and relatives were living there.

So, who of my friends and family did the same, and actually made it to Milan while I was there?

There wasn’t a single type of visitor. Friends visited solo and as couples, some friends came with their kids, while others with children left their kids behind in their grandparents’ care. Friends came who had high-powered jobs they had stepped away from as well as teacher friends who were off for the summer. Some visitors came as part of a trip to celebrate an anniversary or other milestone and others just jumped on dates when they saw the latest flight deal to Milan. Plenty of people visited (which I loved!) but there were also plenty who did not.

How can YOU make traveling to visit friends living in new places a reality?

It’s not that complicated, I swear! Of course you need to know where friends and family are living, and be willing to actually plan your visit, but beyond that it doesn’t take much. A little bit of organization goes a long way, and there’s really not much that separates me popping in on friends all over and those who stay home and wish they had taken that trip.

Here are a few pretty simple things to keep in mind to put good intentions into action:

Stay in touch with friends and family, and know where people are. If you already know all of the cool places where you know someone, you’re ahead of the curve!
Lock down dates on the calendar for a visit. Yes, life gets crazy sometimes and people have different work and travel schedules, so sometimes coordination can be tricky. It helps to start asking early so you can block off time that is good for both of you.NOTE: This is where a lot of travel planning falls apart. You ask about dates, your e-mail gets buried in someone’s inbox, and then you forget to follow up. Happens all the time, myself included. So when you send your initial message, jot down a quick note to follow up in a few days or a week if you haven’t heard anything, that way a date for visiting actually gets set at some point without falling by the wayside.
Even if someone tells you they expect to be somewhere for a few years or longer, still plan your trip ASAP. In my experience, people often think they know about timing, but life is too unexpected to wait. If they’re really there as long as they expect and you had a good time on your first visit, you can always plan a return trip later 😉
Be a good guest! At a minimum, do whatever amount of advance planning is needed so you’re not a burden on your generous host. Depending on work schedules and children or other commitments, hosts may have the flexibility to spend every minute with you or may need to send you off exploring on your own at different points in time. Come prepared.

For me now, some of my new travel priorities are based on where I know people and can get to relatively easily from my current home in Baltimore. There is the weekend I hope to spend in Detroit, Michigan sometime soon, where a friend recently moved and I’ve never been. Along with getting to Denver, Colorado, where my sister expects to move soon. It will be new to me, as I’ve only transited in the airport before. I want to be sure to catch them, so those are both trips I hope to take in the next six months or so.

Where do you have (or will have) friends and family living? Make a plan to go!

And friends – if you’ve never been to Baltimore, come visit. I don’t have any plans to leave, but hey, you never know =)

How do you plan where you’ll visit next? Have you ever visited a new place just because of a friend or relative who moved there? What’s your best piece of advice to get out there and take that next trip? Share away in the Comments below!

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Foodie Bucket List: The 16 Best Local Foods (and Drinks) in Israel

February 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Leading up to my most recent trip to Israel, I was a bit stymied by the ‘travel planning’ phase I engage in for most of my trips. I lived in Israel for a year, which was the start of my extensive traveling. I’ve been back to visit many times since, and not so much changes from year to year. Besides catching up with friends and family, how would I spend my time there?

Then, the night before my trip, I couldn’t stop thinking about all of the foods I knew I wanted to be sure to eat at some point during the ten days. I obviously had to have falafel. And hummus. And shakshuka. The more I thought about it, the longer my list became, until I had a pretty decent list stored on my phone of what foods I would seek out on my travels.

So I arrived with a “To Eat” list instead of a “To Do” list.

Even if you’ve never been to Israel, if you’re familiar with the cuisines of other countries on the Mediterranean Sea, you may recognize some of the foods below – or their variations. In any case, the Israeli versions of these specialties are worth seeking out on your visit. Ask any local, and they’ll point you to the best nearby spot for:

Savory Bites

Shakshuka

The ultimate in savory breakfast, shakshuka consists of a spiced tomato, pepper and onion mixture that is heated and then used as a liquid to poach eggs. A beautiful and incredibly hearty way to start the day. Or do as many Israelis do, and have breakfast for dinner. Find out more about a top spot to sample this typical dish in my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel.

Bourekas

Known as a burek in other countries along the Mediterranean and in Eastern Europe, the Israeli version of bourekas also involves phyllo dough that has been stuffed typically with some sort of savory filling and topped with sesame and/or poppy seeds. The salty cheese and potato ones are most common, although there are plenty of variations on fillings. A lot of markets have stands selling bourekas, or it is a good savory bite to pick up from the bakery section of a supermarket for a snack on the go.

Falafel

A falafel is one of several common Israeli foods served in a puffy pita. The falafel balls themselves consist of ground chickpeas and other spices that are then deep fried. In any reputable falafel stand, you’ll have a variety of toppings to choose from, including spreads like hummus and tahini. Some of my favorite add-ons are marinated cubes of eggplant, pickles, and french fries.

Schwarma

Another typical pita dish found all over Israel, schwarma is filled with meat shaved off of a spit. In Israel it is usually lamb, although you’ll sometimes find chicken versions. Condiments mirror those available for falafel, and make for some tasty bites.

Sabich

The third and final pita dish on this list, sabich has recently become trendy and widely available in Israel, and was my favorite new bite of my last visit. Condiments are also similar to falafel and shwarma, except that the main filling is fried eggplant and chunks of hard-boiled egg. There is just some unctuous savoriness that comes with a well-made sabich that made this the meal I chose for my final dinner before flying home to Milan. Head to my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my favorite spot to eat this local specialty.

Hummus

As you’ve seen above, hummus is a typical condiment for pita-based dishes, however it can also be a stand-alone meal. When hummus made its way onto my “to eat” list, it was not as a dip but the warm hummus that is served with chickpeas and spices or sauteed lamb on top, and then pita bread becomes merely the vehicle for the food, with the hummus and its toppings as the main event.

Jachnun & Malawach

These two types of Middle Eastern concoctions are often made from the same dough and served with the same condiments, so I’ve included them together here. The format differs – for jachnun the dough is rolled into almost a narrow cylinder and malawach is in the form of thick, circular pancakes – but both are brushed with some type of fat or oil. Jachnun tends to be cooked slowly in an oven while malawach is fried, but then both are served with a crushed tomato dip, hard boiled egg, and hot sauce.

Sweet Bites

Baklava

The exact history of baklava’s origins is murky, but the important thing to know is that it is part of local tradition and you’ll eat excellent versions everywhere you go. There are also many varieties beyond the typical bites with flat sections of phyllo dough, some having a more shredded exterior. You can usually find pretty small bites of the different varieties, so go crazy and sample them all!

Halva

There are tons of variations of halva around the world – and I’ve sampled versions from Greece to Oman – but the Israeli version is the one I find most addictive. Locally it’s made from a sesame paste and starts off in a large block that is cut into slices for sale. Varieties abound, and beyond the plain version, you’ll most typically see chocolate or various nuts mixed in. Any market is a great place to sample many different types and then buy a slice or two for later.

‘Exploding’ Chocolate

At any supermarket, head to the row of red Elite chocolate bars and you’ll find this delightful bar of chocolate with pop rocks inside, with little yellow explosions shown on the label. A great snack to have after a picnic meal or while out hiking. It’s also a great souvenir or gift to bring back home, especially if you don’t tell the recipient what to expect when they take a bite.

Krem Bo

I’ve sampled this treat at food markets in Europe also, but my favorite version is still the Israeli Krem Bo. It is a circle of graham cracker covered by a near-cylinder of marshmallow goo and encased in a thin chocolate shell. Due to the summer heat that would melt these pretty quickly, you’ll typically only find Krem Bo for sale in the winter. The good news is that during Israel’s cooler months you can find them almost everywhere, from large supermarkets to the convenience store on the corner. If you’re having trouble finding them (which even I do sometimes despite knowing what they look like), just ask.

Doughnuts

Although doughnuts themselves are not a local food per se, sufganiyot – the doughnuts available around Chanukah time – are taken to a whole new level in Israel. The toppings and fillings available boggle the mind, and really it just becomes a vessel for a baker’s creativity.

TIP! Chanukah is usually in December, depending on the lunar, Jewish calendar for any given year, so check the timing before you go if you’d like to be around for the right 8 days.

Beverages

Nana Tea

Any time of year, hot tea is good way to stay hydrated in the desert. So whether you’re actually in the desert, or at one of the developed cities surrounded by desert, nana tea is the local pick. Nana is a type of spearmint from the Mediterranean whose mint leaves will be placed directly into boiling water, often with a regular tea bag, too. A refreshing cuppa anytime.

Sachlav

You’ll see this milky, comfort beverage more often in winter as many people prefer to consume it hot (although it is served cold as well). In addition to milk, aromatics are added, with the exact mix depending on the recipe. Known by some as ‘the hot chocolate of the Middle East,’ it basically serves the same comfort function of a hot chocolate, mulled wine, or hot cider. Keep an eye out for it at market vendors and even coffee shops in bus and train stations during winter.

Wine

Israeli wine is excellent. A lot of wineries produce kosher wine, but make no mistake – we’re not talking syrupy-sweet Manishewitz here. Some of the best wines I’ve ever had have been from Israel, which produces many varietals of both white and red grapes you’re probably familiar with. Israeli ingenuity has led to exacting production standards that produce a delicious final product year after year. There is also a ton of value with Israeli wine right now, due to all of the competition. Take advantage and sample your way through Israeli wines whenever you have the opportunity. And check out this thorough post on which Israeli wineries are best to visit. If you won’t get a chance to visit wineries in person, but still want to taste the range of Israeli wines, there are dozens of wines that can be sampled at Tel Aviv’s Tasting Room Wine Bar.

Beer

Israel is known for its entrepreneurial spirit, and this is evident in the emerging craft beer scene as well. The craft beer expansion began in earnest around a decade ago, similar to the timing of Israel’s boutique winery boom. You’ll find it on menus all over and there are quite a few breweries or brewery pubs for specific brands in Israel’s major cities. There is a great round-up of craft breweries to visit from Afar Magazine here. Another great place to sample a variety of craft brews from different breweries is BeerBazaar, with locations in the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv & Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem (I’ve been to and enjoyed the Jerusalem branch). Or you can always opt for the old standby Israeli-produced beers that have been quenching thirst for decades: Carlsberg, Goldstar, Maccabee, & Tuborg.

What’s your favorite Israeli dish? Any typical food I’ve omitted? Have you ever traveled with a “to eat” list? Let me know in the Comments!

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Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

March 1, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Jerusalem is built on a series of hills, and as you approach the city in a vehicle for the first time, you feel the anticipation build more and more as you loop around the winding roads. At some point it occurs to you to turn your head, and you find yourself looking down into the dramatic valleys and into the distance at this sacred biblical land. Just when you think you might have arrived, there is one more turn, one more bend, one more cutback, before finally the city of Jerusalem comes into full view.

This build-up, this anticipation, is part of the mystique of the city of Jerusalem. There are surprises and secrets to uncover everywhere you turn, whether it’s an ancient Roman road getting unearthed during an excavation or a previously unknown tunnel accidentally discovered. It is ancient white stone structures and modern amenities. A lengthy history that is tangible as you walk it’s streets, with ancient whispers beckoning at every turn.

Jerusalem is a holy city, central to the Jewish, Christian, and Muslim faiths. The Old City has Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim quarters. Israel itself has become a melting pot even for Jews of many nationalities, including recent waves of Ethiopian and Russian immigrants. Jerusalem has a bustle about it of people always moving with purpose, whether on a religious pilgrimage or simply running errands about town. It is a city that moves.

And then suddenly, the activity comes to a screeching halt as the sun sets on Friday evening. There is the quiet of Shabbat (the Sabbath), a deep calm that sets into the city until Saturday’s sundown, observed more widely in Jerusalem than in Israel’s more secular cities. Sometimes on Shabbat as you stroll deserted streets, taking in the meditative silence of the Jewish day of rest, you feel as if you could be walking those streets 2,000 years ago and not much would differ. There would be the same peaceful quiet, the same contemplation and introspection, the same Jerusalem stone guiding your steps.

Israel, and the city of Jerusalem specifically, was the first place that I lived abroad. Despite my teenage inexperience with travel, I took it all in with a sense of wonder, marveling at the rich history and how connected it was still to the modern city. I loved exploring the back alleys and narrow passageways of Jerusalem’s pedestrian areas and wandering inside the walls of the Old City. I also loved using the city as a jumping off point for other weekend explorations – which I did often – and always savored the return bus trip, looping my way slowly up Jerusalem’s hills until I could see the city peek through again on the turns and finally feeling my heart jump as I could see the full view of Jerusalem again.

Despite the countless times I’ve entered the city of Jerusalem by bus or car, my experience en route is always the same. While I know the city well, it is constantly evolving, and with every visit I see the latest archaeological discovery or a new section of the Western Wall Tunnels unearthed. There is so much to take in, so much to savor, and so much to discover for the first time. On each visit.

Things to Do

Old City and Nearby

Old City

The Old City is divided into four quarters – Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim – and is accessible through nine active gates. It is a bit of living history, with shopkeepers and many holy sites for several religions contained within a small geographic area. Even without a particular destination in mind, it’s a great spot to wander, and be sure to spend at least some time in each of the quarters. Use caution at the entrance gates, and rest assured that there is security posted frequently throughout.

TIP! Many of the religious sites for Christianity, Islam, and Judaism in the Old City require modest dress to enter, so it’s a good idea to dress modestly on any day you’ll be visiting.

The Shuk

Shuk simply means market, and is similar to other traditional markets you may have visited throughout the Middle East. Anything from spices to hand-carved chess and backgammon sets to kitchy tourist t-shirts will be on sale, and this is the time to put your haggling skills to the test. Don’t be afraid to walk away – it will improve your bargaining position and there is also likely to be another vendor selling similar (or identical) wares.

Western Wall

The one remaining wall of the first-century Second Temple built by Herod, this spot is the holiest area where Jews can pray. People flock from all over the world, and like the most religious Jews, prayer space is divided into men’s and women’s sections. Modest dress is required. You’ll notice lots of people placing tiny scraps of paper into the cracks in the wall – these notes have people’s personal prayers written on them, believed to have special powers to reach God. If you’re feeling inclined, leave a note with your own prayer on it.

Western Wall Tunnels

The Western Wall is the section visible at ground level, however there are more extensive remnants of the Second Temple underground. I’ve probably toured the Western Wall tunnels three or four times, but it is always worth arranging a visit as excavation are ongoing and new areas are constantly unearthed and added to the tour. It’s best to reserve a spot in advance, using the link above.

Via Dolorosa

Literally “the way of suffering,” this path traces Jesus’s steps on the way to crucifixion. There are 14 stations of the cross, beginning at Lions’ Gate and ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the last five stations are located.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Considered to be the location of Jesus’s tomb, Christians from all over the world make a pilgrimage to this Church inside Jerusalem’s Old City. While open daily, lines can get quite lengthy, so it’s best to visit earlier in the day.

Al Aqsa Mosque & Temple Mount

The Temple Mount is the third holiest site in Islam after Mecca and Medina, and the holiest site for Jews. For non-Muslims there are very limited visiting hours only from Sunday to Thursday, and entrance to the mosques is no longer permitted. Also, the site can be closed without warning at any time for security reasons. Check in at the link above for the latest information, and arrive early (with your passport) and dress modestly if you’d like the possibility of a visit.

Tower of David & Museum of the History of Jerusalem

Also known as the Citadel, the Tower of David, it’s a former Ottoman fortification located just outside the Old City’s Jaffa Gate. You can tour the archaeological excavation and visit a museum showcasing Jerusalem’s lengthy history. There is also an evening light and sound show, with advance tickets recommended.

Hezekiah’s Tunnel & the City of David

This water tunnel is part of the City of David, and was an engineering marvel when first constructed nearly 3,000 years ago. Its purpose was to provide water access to the city in the case of a siege. The tunnel is accessible up until 1 hour before closing time, although you’ll need to buy tickets at least 2 hours before close. Come prepared with water shoes and light, water-resistant clothing as water may be as high as your knees as you walk through the tunnel. Likely to be one of the more memorable sights of your time in Jerusalem.

Around Town

Ben Yehuda Street & Surrounding Pedestrian Areas

A bustling part of town, especially in the evenings, the modern ‘center’ of Jerusalem can be found here. There are a lot of shopping opportunities from brick-and-mortar stores to outdoor markets, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to pop into as you stroll.

Machane Yehuda Market

By day, this is a bustling Middle Eastern market (or shuk) with fresh produce, endless prepared food for sale, and any knick-knack you might need. By night, the market is now a trendy destination for dinner or a night out with friends, especially for the younger Jerusalem crowd. It’s closed on Shabbat, from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday, but otherwise is a must-visit spot at several times of day to taste your way through.

Museums

Israel Museum

The top draw here is probably the Dead Sea Scrolls, ancient biblical manuscripts on display in the iconic white building pictured above. This world-class museum also houses notable art and archaeological artifacts, and its gardens are extensive and worth a stroll.

Yad Vashem

The State of Israel was founded in the wake of the Holocaust and its Holocaust Remembrance Center is a sobering reminder of the atrocities committed against Jews and others during World War II. Take a slow day and take your time to weave through the thoughtful exhibitions.

Off the Beaten Path

Mount of Olives

This biblical site has been used as a Jewish cemetery for several thousand years and has been a pilgrimage sight for Jews as well. While you may visit for religious significance, it is also a great spot to overlook the city of Jerusalem. Part of the City of David, although a bit further from the Old City than Hezekiah’s Tunnel (see above).

Chagall Windows at Hadassah Medical Center, Ein Kerem

It’s not really close to anywhere you’re likely to be, but if you want to glimpse 12 stunning Marc Chagall windows depicting biblical scenes, head to the synagogue inside the Hadassah Medical Center at Ein Kerem. These were the first Chagall windows I trekked to see, although I more recently enjoyed the Chagall Windows at a church in Mainz. Perhaps I should adopt a new motto: Will travel for beautiful stained glass windows.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Jerusalem is a relatively easy city to navigate. A lot of the sights you’ll want to see are clustered in a few walkable areas, like the Old City and the pedestrian area around Ben Yehuda Street. The other main modes of transportation are:

Light Rail

Opened in 2011, the light rail is a pleasant way to traverse Jerusalem. Only one line is currently open, but it will take you to many of the sights of interest like the Old City, the pedestrian Center, and Mahane Yehuda Market. The light rail also stops at the Central Bus Station, for when you arrive and leave the city, and connects at several points to bus lines.

Buses

The bus system in Israel as a whole, and Jerusalem as well, is exceptionally thorough. Even for the places you’ll want to go outside the central areas, there will definitely be a bus to get you there. Check the Egged site linked above (in English) for schedules and routes.

Taxis

Taxis are widely available, and most drivers speak English. Be sure to negotiate a fare before agreeing to a ride. You can always ask at your accommodations what you should expect a certain ride to cost so you have a baseline in mind.

TIP! Bargaining is a way of life in Israel, and most things are expected to be negotiated. And like all haggling, you’re best served not accepting the first offer.

TIP! A lot of modes of transportation do not operate in Jerusalem on Shabbat, so if you do travel other than on foot, expect to pay more than usual for your taxi.

Jerusalem really is a city that has my heart, and there is so much to discover across its hills. Even among Israeli cities it’s unique, both for how much history has been preserved across millenia and how much that history is felt on a daily basis. It’s a magical place to spend Shabbat and really appreciate the “day of rest.” And a cultural experience like no other to fully take in the other days of the week.

Interested in where to eat while you’re in Jerusalem? Head to this post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my top Jerusalem picks.

Have you been to Jerusalem? Any spots you love that I should add to my list? Other questions about visiting? Let me know in the Comments.

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Insider Bucket List – 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

March 3, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Many people travel to Israel as religious pilgrims, but this tiny country on the Mediterranean has so much to offer every type of traveler. From outdoor adventure to Roman ruins to burgeoning boutique wineries to relaxing beach days, there is a seemingly endless list of attractions and superlatives to seek out. You can treat this post as a bucket list, or merely as a starting point to get a sense of all of the ways to spend your visit to Israel, and then decide on which ones appeal to you most or work with your time limitations.

This list is compiled from the top experiences that stand out for me, after my time living in Israel and my recent return visits. I am a bit of an eclectic, so you’ll see different aspects of my foodie, nature-loving, history-enthralled self coming through. Enjoy!

#1 | Jersualem’s Old City.

There are millenia of history in the layers of Jerusalem stone, and there have been enough excavations over the years that you can literally walk in the footsteps of history. The Old City, despite its small size, contains some of the holiest sites of the world’s three main monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. And the historical remnants abound – yours to discover as you wander on foot or take part in an organized itinerary. Check out my top picks for what to do in Jerusalem here.

#2 | Eat your way around a market.

Produce in Israel tastes incredible because it is just so fresh. It was only when I lived here that I started eating tomatoes and many other fruits and vegetables because it just tastes so much better from the markets. Markets also have plenty of vendors selling prepared food products, including many of Israel’s local specialties. Even the smallest Israeli town will have a market at least a couple of days a week, so ask wherever you go. Top markets to visit include Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem or Carmel Market in Tel Aviv.

#3 | Cosmopolitan Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv feels much like any bustling European city, and it will probably remind you of some when you visit. Sheinkin Street is a great shopping destination with some funky stores and plenty of nearby restaurants and cafes to refuel. On Tuesdays and Fridays, my favorite craft market is held all day on block after block of the pedestrian street Nahalat Binyamin – it’s a great place to pick up souvenirs or treat yourself. I still wear a ring I purchased here in the 1990s daily. And of course, there is the cafe culture of Tel Aviv to soak up. Linger as the Israelis do, drinking coffee, grabbing a light bite to eat, and catching up with friends or work leisurely on your laptop. Rothschild Boulevard is a popular spot for outdoor cafes and people watching, including the beloved cafe at Rothschild 12 and you can check out some other top recommendations from Israeli newspaper Ha’aretz here.

#4 | Old Port City of Jaffa.

On the southern side of Tel Aviv lies this ancient port city, which for me is all about wandering and exploring. Take in the views overlooking the sea and Tel Aviv’s beach, stroll through the HaPisga Gardens, wander the narrow passageways and pop into artist’s studios along the way, and explore the antique offerings at the local flea market. There are also some great restaurants overlooking the water and some trendy bars that have opened recently.

#5 | Baha’i Gardens in Haifa.

One of the two holiest sites for the Baha’i religion is in Haifa, a dramatic series of terraced gardens leading up to a Temple. Entrance is free and the gardens are open 7 days a week except holy days, although some of the interior gardens close at noon. The city of Haifa hasn’t always wowed me, but this is is one thing worth traveling to Haifa to seek out.

#6 | Beaches.

Israel has a whole coast of beach possibilities, from the one essentially in downtown Tel Aviv to some of the more secluded options further from the cities. Definitely build some down time into your trip to go and enjoy the warm Mediterranean waters and the beach scene. And if you make it to Herzliya, definitely check out their beach’s main attraction – a hermit house built from discarded materials that has been around since the 1970s.

#7 | Play sheshbesh at a bar or cafe.

In the US, people gather at parks to play a game of chess – in Israel, they gather at bars and cafes to play sheshbesh, which you may know better as backgammon. If you’re not from the Middle East, you may not have grown up playing backgammon, but in Israel it is all the rage. Many bars and cafes will have playing sets available, and it is definitely the local pastime. Often enjoyed in conjunction with some flavored tobacco smoked from a water pipe, known locally as hoookah or nargila or shisha, it’s a way to experience life like a local for an afternoon or evening.

#8 | Enjoy a Traditional Shabbat.

For religious Jews, Shabbat (the Sabbath) is a day when time stands still, lasting from sundown Friday until sundown Saturday. You don’t use electricity or cell phones, but take the time to pray and enjoy time with friends and family. It’s a great escape or digital detox for a day, and is worth seeking out a way to enjoy a Shabbat in Israel, whether it means attending a synagogue service or sharing a traditional meal with locals.

#9 | Bargain at the shuk.

The shuk, or market, is a central part of shopping and eating for many Israelis. In addition to food, there are plenty of household items for sale plus souvenirs for any type of tourist, from t-shirts to jewelry to spices to hand-carved chess or backgammon (sheshbesh) sets. Of course, this being the Middle East, you don’t want to simply accept the first price that is offered. Haggling is expected, and it is at its most dramatic in this country of bargaining experts.

#10 | Check out the Natural Grottoes at Rosh Hanikra.

Rosh_Hanikra_(12276775196) Israel — Image: sunshinecity via Wikimedia Commons

Located atop steep cliffs at the Israel-Lebanon border on the Mediterranean coast, Rosh Hanikra is also the site of a series of natural sea grottoes. From the visitor’s center you can descend in a cable car and explore the area of the grottoes on foot, taking in the natural landscape.

#11 | Stunning Archaeological Ruins.

Many empires have ruled the land that is now Israel, so there are ruins all over, many dating from Roman times thousands of years ago – and others from long before. Some of the my favorite ruins to visit (I’ve been to all of them multiple times over the years):

Akko/Acre – One of the few natural ports along Israel’s coast, Akko has been used by many civilizations who have left their mark. Walk Old Akko’s walls and explore the underground crusader city. Another reason to go? Enjoying the epic tasting menu at one of my all-time favorite restaurants in the entire country, Uri Buri.
Caesarea – Named for Julius Caesar, the ruins here are massive and rival any that I’ve seen in Italy or Greece. Set aside plenty of time to explore all of the areas, including an Amphitheater and Hippodrome, dramatically located right on the Mediterranean coast.
Megiddo – The biblical site of Armageddon, this is one of the more ancient settlements whose mark is still visible today. James Michener’s masterpiece novel The Source is generally based on the archaeological excavations here, especially around the impressive underground water tunnel that you can explore on your visit.

#12 | Visit Wineries.

Modern wine-making has been taking place in Israel for over a century, but it is more recently that boutique and family-run wineries of quality have emerged onto the scene. There are many winery tours and tastings you can experience, both in the more traditional wine-growing regions and at some excellent producers cropping up in the desert areas south of Jerusalem. Click here for my rundown of all of the best wineries for a visit when you go.

#13 | Mystical City of Tsfat/Safed.

Tsfat has been the seat of Jewish study and Kabbala (Jewish mysticism) for quite some time, and many people travel here to learn. Overall, it’s a quiet place with stunning views, although the synagogue scene gets quite lively over Shabbat. Like Jaffa near Tel Aviv, there are also a lot of artists who make their home here and have galleries that are open to the public during the week. There are also many local dairies producing some excellent cheese.

#14 | Outdoor Adventure.

Israelis like to seek out their fair share of adventure, and with the varied terrain and coast, there are many great options. Some top possibilities for outdoor adventure include hiking, rock climbing, rappelling (known in Hebrew as snapling), skydiving, scuba diving, and canoeing or kayaking. Take your pick!

#15 | Hike Masada for Sunrise.

Masada is well-known for being the site of a famous siege and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Jews were isolated on the plateau and after a long standoff with the Romans, committed mass suicide before they could be captured. The archaeological excavations of the settlement at the top are extensive, and it’s a beautiful (if hot) early morning hike to the top to watch sunrise over the mountains and the Dead Sea, and then visit the complex.

#16 | Float in the Dead Sea.

The lowest point on Earth, the Dead Sea also has an incredibly high salt concentration. Which means that you will be incredibly buoyant when you enter and can’t help but float – a disorienting and incredibly fun experience. You can see from me reading a book in the quintessential photo above that even if you normally have trouble floating, you can’t help but float here. The one think to be careful about is any cuts, no matter how microscopic. So maybe forgo shaving the morning before you go, as you will acutely feel any open wounds with the salinity.

#17 | Ein Gedi Oasis.

Israel’s largest oasis, this is a great spot for hiking and exploring for a day. Amidst the desert, there are springs, streams, and even waterfalls. Especially incredible given its proximity to the Dead Sea, it’s incredible to see all of the greenery and wildlife interspersed in an otherwise arid area. There are several trail options and lookout points to get a view of the surrounding area.

#18 | Trek the Desert.

I once volunteered at a camel riding outpost for three weeks, which involved living on a sand dune in the middle of nowhere with very few people around. In the middle of the desert, you can’t help but be in touch with the rising and setting sun and the expanse around you, I had no trouble seeing how many of the world’s religions were born in desert surroundings. It’s worth exploring Israel’s many desert landscapes during your visit, which you can do on foot hiking, biking, or riding a camel. And outside of the city lights the night sky is spectacular, so spend an overnight under the stars if you can.

#19 | Visit a Kibbutz.

A kibbutz is an Israeli collective – a community working together and jointly benefiting from individual efforts. Initially most kibbutzim were socialist farming communities and many even raised their children collectively, although in recent years many have shifted to a less socialist model. The fact that several of these uniquely Israeli communities are thriving today is a sight to see – many offer tours or meals, or even the possibility of staying overnight.

#20 | Check out a Machtesh.

Machtesh Ramon Israel — Image: Orhat via Wikimedia Commons

I would have written this article about how a machtesh in Israel is a must-see sight – if the Globe and Mail hadn’t already beaten me to it. A machtesh is an erosion crater unique to southern Israel and Egypt’s Sinai peninsula, and the largest of the five is Machtesh Ramon, which is over 40 kilometers (25 miles) long! Machtesh Ramon is the most humbling and also best equipped to direct tourists to its many hiking trails and lookout points

Are there any top experiences in Israel I missed? What stands out most in your mind? And any other questions about visiting Israel or any of the activities I listed? Share and ask away in the Comments!

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Travel Savvy Gal

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