How to Spend One Day in Mainz, Germany

February 16, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

Tons of people each year end up with a layover in Frankfurt, and many opt to stay the night, but most probably make it to this gem – the city of Mainz, which is on the Frankfurt metro system. I didn’t even know Mainz existed, except perhaps an obscure reference in my high school history class a long time ago. But when I saw pictures of a fellow expat friend (thanks, Lisa!) taking a trip there to see the Chagall Windows of one of the churches, I knew I had to make a stop during my next visit to Frankfurt.

I had originally planned to go to Mainz for just a couple of hours in the morning, but was having such a wonderful time I ended up spending the entire day! And Mainz also had one of the most beautiful things I saw all of last year, which you can read more about in my Thanksgiving post here.

My visit to Mainz occurred almost exactly a year ago – in the dead of winter. My top 2 highlights? the Chagall Windows at St. Stephan’s Church & the Gutenberg Museum, seeing multiple Gutenberg Bibles.

If Mainz absolutely charmed me in the coldest weather of the year, you’ll love it whenever you are able to go!

Things to Do

Around Town

Gutenberg Museum

If you know your history, you’ll recall that Johannes Gutenberg invented the printing press in the mid-1400s, which was revolutionary in allowing for the mass printing of books and pamphlets, spreading knowledge and improving literacy across all social classes. Although the machine was a feat of engineering, printing in those days was part art, part science, and Gutenberg’s printing of the Bible (and many other books and pamphlets) created some of the world’s most prized possessions. You’ll catch all of the relevant history at the museum, but be sure to time your visit to catch one of the printing press demonstrations by the friendly staff and also leave enough time to savor the beauty of the original Gutenberg Bibles on display. I couldn’t help but stand there awestruck, and visited the room with the Bibles again and again as I walked through different floors of the museum. Seeing the Gutenberg Bibles was one of my absolute highlights of all of 2016 – and that’s saying a lot!

Mainz Cathedral (Mainzer Dom)

Located in the central pedestrian area, this Cathedral has been around for over 1,000 years, and its history can be traced in the different architectural styles of the building and adornments. Take your time strolling through to appreciate the details of the artistry and history displayed throughout, and be sure to visit the outdoor courtyard.

Market Square (Marktplatz)

Surrounding many of these ‘Around Town’ attractions is the market square, part of the broader pedestrian plazas and streets. Even when not en route to or from one of the attractions, take the time to wander the old part of the city and join the daily rhythm of the locals.

St. Augustine’s Church (Augustinerkirche)

Not far from the Mainz Cathedral – and a few hundred years younger – the Augustinerkirche has a very different feel. The interior decorations here are quite elaborate and include many gold accents typical of the Baroque style, and is beautiful in its own right.

Off the Beaten Path

Citadel (Zitadelle)

The Citadel is an entire complex, originally an abbey and later a fortress, and has a lot of trails to stroll around. Housed on site is also the Historical Museum of Mainz and from April until October you can even take tours a couple of days a week that take you on and to the underground areas of the Citadel.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While the main website linked above is in German, if you scroll to the bottom of the homepage there is an option to switch your browsing language to English.

Synagogue, Synagogenplatz

Built less than a decade ago, the new synagogue of Mainz serves a local Jewish community nearly 1,000 people strong. The building is striking from the outside – seemingly an abstract, modernist creation – but in reality comprised of the hebrew letters for kedusha, holiness. In a moment of travel serendipity, one of the staff peeked out while I was photographing the synagogue’s exterior (as you can see in the photo above!) and was kind enough to let me in and join a tour that was in progress, so I got to view the synagogue’s stunning interior as well. Although picture-taking of the sanctuary was not allowed, you can see the incredible features of the building on the architect’s website here. The synagogue was the spot I visited that was farthest from the historical center, but local trams will get you there easily (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below).

Old Synagogue

The previous synagogue of Mainz no longer stands, however there is a plaque commemorating its location. Originally constructed in 1878, it was damaged during Kristallnacht in 1938 and then destroyed in 1942 by bombings during World War II. Above you can see the rendering of what it looked like before it was destroyed, a model that was on display at the new Synagogue when I visited.

Roman Theater

There is not a ton to see, although it is an interesting juxtaposition to have the ancient Roman Theater abutting the modern train station. Since you’re likely to arrive in Mainz right nearby (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below), it’s worth the short stroll from the train station to check it out.

Chagall Windows St Stephan 20160122_115617

St. Stephan’s Church

People make a special journey to this church (and even the city of Mainz) for one thing – the blue Chagall windows. Notable as the only German church that the Jewish artist Marc Chagall designed for, his signature stained glass windows are even more breathtaking in person. The church is located a bit away from the most central part of town, but is another one of the absolute highlights of my visit to Mainz, and probably the #1 attraction for most tourists. Be sure to make this a priority during your time in Mainz!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The main Mainz website offers itineraries for a variety of self-guided city walks, to help you logically navigate the different sights that interest you most.

Best Bites

Eisgrub-Bräu

The oldest brewery in Mainz, this is a great spot to grab a beer and sample some delicious, traditional German food. The brewing takes place on site, so you’ll see the giant tanks inside the restaurant, maturing the several different types of in-house brews. The restaurant is a short stroll from the central pedestrian area – just far enough away that it was completely packed with locals when I went. I was on my own, but if you’re in a group (or really ambitious) you can order the giant cylinder with over 2 liters of beer!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! This restaurant is open for weekday lunch, while many restaurants in town are only open for dinner during the week. Anywhere you’re planning to eat, be sure to check the operating hours ahead of time.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Coming from anywhere on the Frankfurt metro, a day pass is a great, economical option. And if you get a train pass, it’s also valid for transportation within the city of Mainz. There is an extensive tram system that takes you between different parts of town, saving you some walking and quite helpful in bad (or cold) weather.

Also, there are multiple train stops in Mainz. For access to the historical center and quaint pedestrian areas, you’ll want to travel to the S-bahn stop by the Roman Theater: Mainz Römisches Theater.

For me Mainz really over-delivered, with the Gutenberg Bibles being the absolute highlight that I couldn’t get enough of, but by no stretch the only amazing and beautiful thing I saw during my day there.

What’s your favorite part about Mainz? Any other tips for a visit? And what was the last city that wowed you unexpectedly? Share away in the Comments!

How to Spend One Day - 24 hours - in Mainz Germany

Foodie Bucket List: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

June 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 22 comments

Belize is a bit of a melting pot, with its food representing many different influences, all delicious.

The varied cuisine in Belize is no surprise, given that it is located at a crossroads between Central America, Mexico, and the Caribbean. There are also Mayan influences dating back thousands of years, seen in the many Belizean dishes based around corn tortillas and beans.

Before visiting, I spent a bit of time researching and compiling a list of local dishes that are typical to Belize, and my mouth was watering before I even got on the plane.

Some of them may sound familiar from similar Mexican or Caribbean dishes, served with a Belizean spin.

What’s nice about Belize is that most of these dishes are widely available, especially those served by the ubiquitous street food vendors. You won’t have to venture far to sample a particular food or struggle to locate the one restaurant in town serving a specific dish, like I’ve done in other places I’ve visited.

It will also be easy to converse with your restaurant server or street vendor if you have any questions about a dish or its ingredients, since Belize’s official language in English.

It’s very easy to navigate your culinary experiences, one of the many reasons I found it such an easy place to travel.

READ MORE: 9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

Belize also has international influences of course, with some high-end restaurants boasting French and Italian influences.

For me though, with my limited time visiting, I was happy to stick to the local specialties.

And with the ease of conversing in English with everyone, I even got a few cooking tips for replicating Belizean dishes at home.

Here’s what I enjoyed:

Breakfast

Fry Jacks

I enjoyed fry jacks nearly every morning for breakfast. Basically, it’s fried dough, and will come in different consistencies and sizes depending on who is making them.

I think I liked all of the versions I had!

It is most often served with eggs and refried beans:

I also enjoyed stuffed jacks, in which the fry jack is sliced open and filled with a scrambled egg mixture (at breakfast) or beans and cheese (later in the day):

Johnny Cakes

A johnny cake (also known as a journey cake, because you take it to go when you’re heading on a trip) is like a corn biscuit. It’s dry and flaky, and usually served as a sandwich with fillings inside.

I only tried it once and didn’t love it, so the next morning I was back to eating fry jacks. It’s definitely worth sampling though, and maybe you’ll enjoy a better version than I had!

Lunch, Dinner, & Snacks

Panades

This is the first of several snack variations you’ll find in Belize made with corn tortillas and toppings or filling.

The terms panades refers to small tortilla pockets that are stuffed with meat – it’s just like a crunchy empanda, but typically smaller and also served with a bit of slaw on top.

Garnaches

To make garnaches, (or garnachas) small tortillas are fried and then topped with refried beans, onions and sometimes other vegetables, and cheese.

The refried beans are applied like a spread, and the soft topping contrast with the crunch of the tortilla underneath. It’s like an open-faced sandwich or flat taco.

Salbutes

Salbutes are another variation of tortilla and toppings. This time the small tortillas are deep fried, so even crunchier than garnaches, and then topped with shredded chicken, pickled onions, and other vegetables. It doesn’t look like much, but these little bites are actually quite filling.

Conch

Conch season runs from October 1^st until late June, and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to enjoy it in its different culinary forms if you visit during that itme.

A conch fritter was the first thing that I ate when I arrived in Belize, and it was a satisfying bite of the seafood surrounded by a rich batter and fried to a golden brown. Conch is also frequently served in ceviche or as part of a soup.

Hudut

This is a traditional dish of the Garifuna people, of Afro-Caribbean descent. It involves fish cooked in coconut broth with a plantain paste.

It’s not all that different from some coconut-based Asian dishes. And it’s an incredibly flavorful way to enjoy some of Belize’s freshest products.

Rice & Beans

Rice and beans is the Belizean national dish, and often said so quickly it sounds like a single word – riceanbeans. It may be different than other versions you’ve tasted because the mix is cooked in coconut milk. Most typically it is served with stewed chicken, although any meat will do.

The versions varied a lot, and in general had a pretty small bean to rice ratio, which is different from other rice and bean dishes I’ve had. And of course, some restaurants had more flavorful versions than others.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Street vendors with large silver pots are probably selling an excellent version of rice and beans.

Hot Sauce

Although I wouldn’t recommend consuming hot sauce on its own, this is a condiment that you’ll see everywhere, from the food stand at the bus station to a proper sit-down restaurant.

The most popular hot sauce is Marie’s, a Belizean-owned company that has been producing award-winning hot sauces since the 1980s. Usually one of their more basic habanero hot sauces will be on the table as a condiment next to the salt and pepper shakers.

There are also homemade spicy concoctions that might appear either instead of or in addition to a bottle of Marie’s. It’s a mixture of chopped onions and habaneros, usually made quite spicy for the local palate.

Dessert

Banana Bread

Banana bread (or a banana cake) may not be the dessert that first comes to mind when you think of Central America, but it actually makes a lot of sense.

Belize grows a lot of bananas – usually for export – however, the ones that aren’t pretty enough for export get sold locally for cheap. And so the locals of course make dessert!

I don’t think I managed any pictures, although I did enjoy moist banana bread twice during my stay.

Chocolate

Chocolate-making is an old Mayan tradition in Belize. As I learned on my chocolate-making tour, Belizean chocolate actually comes from a different cacao plant than most or all the chocolate you’ve ever had.

I really enjoyed the local chocolate, as it is less bitter than your typical dark chocolate and has lots of flavors that come through as you chew. Honestly, with all the different aromatic notes, it felt like I was at a wine tasting, not a chocolate tasting!

Even if you don’t get to taste Belizean chocolate on a tour, there are plenty of local chocolates on sale, including at the airport.

Beverages

Fresh Juices

Especially at street food stands, you’ll see a pretty good list of fresh juices on order. Typically beverages are prepared in advance, and then ladled out of large containers for your drink.

One local option is called soursop, from the native fruit also known in Spanish as guanabana, and fortunately not sour at all. There are other seasonal fruit options, and frequently horchata, a Mexican rice-based beverage, is also available.

Belikin Beer

Belikin beer is considered one of Belize’s national treasures, and is the one beer you’ll see everywhere alcohol is served.

In fact, when you order, asking for a “Belikin” means their regular lager. While requesting “a Stout” undoubtedly results in a Belikin Stout being served to you. Their third variety is the Lighthouse, Belikin’s light beer.

The one thing that I had read before my trip and definitely noticed the first time I sipped a beer with dinner – bottles of Belikin beer are smaller than usual! Belikin bottles are around 280 mL, while a typical beer bottle is 330mL. So you may go through it quicker than you expect.

Local Rum

Belize is a country known for its sugarcane, so it also has lots of local rum producers. Its rum is used in lots of cocktails, and also treated as a sipping beverage, especially for the reserve rums or aged varieties.

The favorite rum that I tried was the Tiburon aged rum that had a lot of complexity, and I sipped it as an accompaniment with rice and beans.

The 3 things I didn’t taste

Fried Chicken

I think about fried chicken first as an American bar food, although there are many traditions around the world that include fried chicken (Korea comes to mind).

Coupled with fried food being typical in hot climates and the prevalence of hot sauce, there was quite a bit of fried chicken available in Belize.

I had intended to try fried chicken wings at a street vendor in San Ignacio my last night there, but had a late lunch that day and couldn’t muster up the appetite.

Lobster

Belize is famous for its lobster, although the season does not begin until June 15^th each year, so I was too early to enjoy this specialty.

I’m already thinking about a return trip to Belize, and if I do go again, I would definitely plan the timing to align with the many lobster festivals that take place along the coastal and island towns from mid to late June to celebrate the start of the season.

Cashew Wine

I love the taste of cashews, so I was very curious about cashew wine. Unfortunately, despite my best efforts, none of the local bars or restaurants I visited had it available by the glass.

And in duty free, the only bottle of cashew wine available was a gigantic 1-liter in size.

The best way to sample cashew wine as far as I can tell is to take a cooking class where it is served, or to go on a tour of locally produced food and drinks that includes a cashew wine tasting.

On the upside, I did get to try cashew fruit (pictured above) that was picked fresh from a tree when I was on a Chocolate-making and Waterfalls tour. It was a bit sweet and nutty, with very juicy flesh.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Just watch out if you get a fresh cashew fruit because while the fruit is delicious, the nut in the center is actually toxic until roasted.

Have you been to Belize? What were your favorite dishes that you ate there? Anything else I should add to my ‘Foodie Bucket List’?

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The Day Trip from Rome I Can’t Recommend Enough: Orvieto

March 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 20 comments

Italy is blessed with many picturesque hilltop towns, and I’ve been to many, but Orvieto is one of the best for its sweeping views of the surrounding valley and incredible history and beauty of the attractions in town.

It’s an easy day trip from Rome by train, which is how I visited. Even gazing up at the walled town from the bottom of the funicular when you arrive, Orvieto is distinctive and breathtaking, and doesn’t disappoint when you ascend to the top.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Rome

My favorite day trips in Italy in general involve having enough interesting sights to fill the time (although not too many to be overwhelming), beautiful views, and great food options.

Orvieto has all of this, and millenia of history that is visible seemingly everywhere you turn. Read on for all of the wonderful attractions I was able to squeeze into my single day there.

Things to Do

Around Town

Duomo (Cathedral)

One of the more stunning cathedrals I’ve seen in all of Italy, the Orvieto Duomo is the main draw to the city for many.

The outer facade is incredibly intricate, mixing different styles of sculpture, mosaics, and design. Its beauty is evident when you first venture inside as well, in particular visiting the frescoes of the adjacent San Brizio chapel.

Orvieto Underground

If you read my Naples Cheat Sheet, you know that I find underground passageways intriguing.

This is especially dramatic in Orvieto, as the underground rooms and passageways extend underneath nearly the entire city, dating back to several hundred years before Christ. Of course, you’ll only see a section of the underground areas on the approximately hour-long tour that begins close to the Duomo, but these include areas for raising pigeons and the location of the olive press, with beautiful views over the valley.

Torre del Moro (Moro Tower)

It’s worth climbing the tower’s 250 steps for the views at the top across Orvieto and the surrounding countryside, and the tower is located right in town. On the September day when I visited, there were quite a lot of bugs milling about at the top, but walk around to find a comfortable viewing spot as they tend to congregate toward just one side of the viewing platform.

Church of Sant’Andrea

The church itself is nice and includes a distinctive multi-sided bell tower, but the real treasure is its extensive underground to see with a guide.

It is well worth the extra fee for the friendly, bilingual tour guide who walks you through the history underneath the main level, including fabulous mosaics and ancient roads.

Pozzo della Cava

A series of caves with history going back nearly 3,000 years, this attraction is privately owned and very tourist-friendly with explanatory signs in several languages.

I found it helpful to visit after the ‘Orvieto Underground’ tour, which helped me put into better context some of the areas I was seeing. And be sure to pop into the restaurant, stand on the clear section of plexiglass in the floor, and look down if you dare.

Off the Beaten Path

Church of San Giovenale

The church is Orvieto’s oldest and contains some beautiful artwork. It’s worth stopping into on this end of town, which is a lovely area to explore on foot.

Town Walls

Orvieto is a walled city on a hill, and some of the best views you’ll have of the surrounding valley is by strolling across them on foot.

Communal Gardens of Orvieto

I strolled into this site right by the funicular by accident, but was so glad I did because it offers lookout points and great views of the valley below Orvieto.

This was one of the few spots in town where I saw more locals than tourists.

TIP! The opening hours change by season, so be sure to leave enough time at the beginning or end of your day to spend some time here.

Pozzo di San Patrizio

This well was constructed as a backup water source in the 1500s when Pope Clement VII was hiding out in Orvieto.

Today it’s a beautiful architectural remnant from that period located on the other side of the funicular than the Communal Gardens, behind the remains of an Etruscan Temple.

Where to Eat – Best Bites

Duca di Orvieto

I had done a bunch of research about restaurants in town serving the local fare, and even walked past a few and checked out their menus on my walk into the center, but somehow I overlooked this restaurant that is the single place I’d recommend to anyone visiting.

How did this restaurant make such a deep impression on this self-proclaimed foodie?

Well for one, a lot of their recipes are from local families dating back to the 1500s!! (No, that is not a typo. When was the last time you dined on 16th-century specialties?)

A lot of the dishes take many hours or even days to prepare, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find them anywhere else in town. And the result is incredibly rich and delicious.

I enjoyed a local pasta cooked in red wine for many hours and a beef dish slow cooked with pears and nothing else.

The locals know that this is the spot to go, as I was the only non-Italian on my visit, and even the local police officers took their lunch break here.

Definitely not to be missed! If you’re not sure what to order, rest assured, the staff is wonderful and will steer you in the right direction.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

If you are coming to Orvieto as a day trip from Rome, your best bet is to arrive by train. There are many trains making the journey, so you’ll have several choices to find the schedule that works best for you.

I definitely recommend getting an early start if you can, so you can maximize the time you’re in Orvieto during tourism hours.

You can search for trains between ‘Roma’ and ‘Orvieto’ on TrenItalia’s English website here, including the cost and traveling time for each option.

So your transiting goes smoothly, there are a few things to keep in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There is always the danger of a train strike (sciopero) in Italy, and these happen more often than you’d think. Ask at your accommodations or do an internet search before choosing which day you’ll visit Orvieto.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most trains from Rome to Orvieto leave from platforms at the far end of the station, so leave extra time to walk there to avoid missing your train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! As the day goes on, trains can become progressively more delayed, so you may want to see when you’re ready to leave the city before committing to a timed train ticket.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! When you arrive in Orvieto, you will be in the lower part of town while the main attractions are all on the hilltop. Fortunately, the funicular station is immediately across the street from the Orvieto train station, and it runs relatively frequently, so you’ll never be waiting for long in either direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re planning on a full day in Orvieto, take a picture of the return funicular schedule, especially if there’s a specific train you’re trying to catch back to Rome in the evening.

I spent a really delightful day in Orvieto and felt like I had pretty thoroughly explored the town in that time.

It would certainly be a good spot to make a home base for a few days as well, and I met some tourists who were doing just that, with leisurely days sightseeing in town and on other days driving a rental car to other nearby attractions and wineries.

However you fit it into your Italy itinerary, this is a spot that is definitely worth a visit!

Any sights in Orvieto that I missed? What other day trips from Rome would you recommend?

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Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

January 16, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I can’t stop talking about where to eat in Stavanger, Norway.

How did a city I had never heard of before become the surprise foodie destination of my last two-week European trip?

By far, it was the city that excited me the most for its food and drink offerings. And as I ate and drank my way through, Stavanger, it delivered.

It’s a pretty simple story, really.

Stavanger was a small town through the 1960s when the oil boom hit, and has since grown into one of Norway’s most sophisticated dining scenes, with no shortage of oil executives and business travelers eating lavish meals on their expense accounts – supporting excellent restaurants all around town.

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2018

Now Stavanger is Norway’s third-largest city and was the first outside of Oslo to have one of its restaurants awarded a Michelin star. Since then, a second restaurant has earned the same accolade.

With Stavanger’s proximity to the Lysefjord’s beautiful scenery and famous hikes, it’s likely to be a pass through point for any outdoor adventuring you do in Norway.

Like many other travelers to this region, I passed through Stavanger both coming and going.

The Stavanger dining scene isn’t just serving up great food and drinks, there is some exciting innovation with local and seasonal ingredients that made it a unique experience, not just your standard “good food.” All with a Norwegian twist, of course.

It’s a city I’d go back to, just to eat.

When you do go, here is where you’ll find your best bites and sips:

Top Coffee Shops

Bøker og Børst

Meaning “books and booze” (since it also operates as a bar) this spot is filled with quirky and fun décor that makes you feel instantly cozy the moment you walk in the door.

The staff was also super friendly, and served up my favorite coffee in all of Stavanger – and I sampled a lot more than made this list.

Plus, the ultra-moist slice of decadent carrot cake was a great way to treat myself after a cold, rainy morning on the ferry ride back from the Lysefjord.

Kokko Kaffebar

This spot is actually just around the corner from the previous coffee shop, but has a very different vibe that is light and airy.

There is beautiful décor across multiple levels and bright, open seating. Kokko Kaffebar also serves up great coffee, with a very smooth flavor. Although I did not enjoy my food quite as much, since I found their baked goods to be a bit dry and not as flavorful as other spot.

Where to Eat in Stavanger

26 North

It is not usually my style to eat at a hotel restaurant – especially one that is a Norwegian chain – but this one is really delicious and it was worth being out of my comfort zone to sample the cuisine here.

26 North offers local “farm & fjord” options daily (an option each from the land and the sea) and what is overall a locally-inspired menu.

There is an appetizer sampler, which is a great way to try traditional Norwegian dishes, especially if you are dining solo like I was.

Even a dish that sounded pretty standard, like the steak I ordered, was both cooked and seasoned incredibly well, and I slowly savored each bite.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

Egget

I knew from the moment I read about the concept of this restaurant that it was my kind of spot and the experience lived up to my expectation – it was my favorite experience in Stavanger and the best food I ate in all of Norway.

There is no menu, just a talented young chef putting together food based on what is available that day in delicious small courses. Like Uri Buri restaurant in Israel, the server will keep bringing additional courses until you stay “stop.”

And they were all so absolutely delicious:

BBQ crab with cashew cream, celeriac root, grated horseradish, grilled broccolini and mustard, and grilled oat milk bread
Grilled hake with apple cream from the chef’s dad’s garden, kaffir lime zest, and fennel leaves
Grilled fish with perfectly crispy skin and a spicy, rich, deeply flavored shrimp bouillon I couldn’t get enough of
Crispy-skin lamb with blistered carrots and pumpkin seeds
Cheese course

Of course, you can tell them any dietary restrictions at the start, and the dishes will be tailored to you as needed (and don’t worry, the staff and chef speak excellent English).

There is also a comprehensive wine selection, that you can enjoy without the pressure of buying an entire bottle, with the server/sommelier guiding you in wine pairings for that day’s courses.

Egget was a great solo dining destination, with a counter overlooking the open kitchen where you can sit and watch the details of how each dish is prepared and if you’re lucky like I was, make friends with fellow diners.

Also, the price was so reasonable for what I got!

The total bill came out to 1,020 NOK (105 Euros/US$120), with about one quarter of the price for my wine pairings and the remaining three-quarters covering the four courses plus cheese plate.

Fisketorget

Located right on the water’s edge, Fisketorget is part fish market (its literal translation) and part restaurant serving up local fish and seafood specialties.

For me, this was Norwegian comfort food in a beautiful locale, with plenty of beer and wine options to pair with your food.

While looking out over the nearby inlet, I enjoyed a giant bowl of Norwegian specialty fiskesuppe for lunch, a hearty fish soup which had delicious flavors and lots of different type of seafood – the perfect cozy indulgence to warm me up on a chilly day.

Renaa Matbaren

Although I did not make it to Stavanger’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, RE-NAA, I had a fabulous meal at the slightly less formal version, known as Renaa Matbaren.

Food in Norway tends to be on the pricey side, but if you come for lunch here, there is a great “lunch box” deal with a set starter and dessert, along with a choice of three main dishes.

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First, the food is outstanding, with great combinations of cooking techniques to yield delicious flavor and texture combinations that you’ll want to savor for each bite. There is also a great wine list, with many options by the glass to pair with your food.

But the piece of my experience at Renaa Matbaren that put it over the top was the exceptional service.

Although I was dressed for the ferry ride I would take shortly after my meal, I was treated like a queen when I dined there, without any assumptions being made based on my appearance, which was just a wee bit casual:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In addition to this more casual version and the original Michelin-starred RE-NAA, there is also an Xpress RE-NAA bakery and artisan pizzeria.

Where to Drink in Stavanger

Pjolter & Punsj

You know it’s a great cocktail spot when you come for one post-dinner drink and end up staying for three.

Plus, you make half a dozen friends along the way.

First off, let me say that the cocktails are incredible. Mixing drinks behind the bar is award-winning mixologist Truls Thomsen, who was also fun to chat with (plus, he lived in both the US and Perth, Australia, just like me!).

Many of the cocktail ingredients are in-house concoctions that take several days to prepare, and it shows when you taste the delicious result. Which is why this is where the servers from the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant choose to drink at the end of their shift.

There are also a lot of local spirits and sensibility woven into the cocktail menu here.

Each drink on the menu is displayed along with a different sardine tin, an homage to the now defunct canning industry in Stavanger.

Flavor combinations are locally and historically inspired, with aquavit (a local spirit) as a prominent ingredient in the cocktails.

Which isn’t hard to do because the bar boasts the largest aquavit collection in the region.

This spot could easily thrive in London or New York or Bangkok – but instead you get to enjoy it in Stavanger.

Places to Check Out Next Time

Lervig Aktiebryggeri

Craft beer has exploded in Norway in recent years. Lervig is Stavanger’s local brewery, with its beers widely available at restaurants and bars around town.

You can also visit the brewery itself, with lots of information on the English website linked above, including how to book a tour.

RE-NAA

This is Stavanger’s 1^st Michelin-starred restaurant and also the older sibling to Renaa Matbaren, where I enjoyed the fabulous three-course lunch mentioned above.

After having tasted the chef’s creations, I’d definitely splurge on a meal at this spot on a return trip to Stavanger. It is 1,600 NOK for the 20-22 course tasting menu (165 Euros/US$190) and then another 1,400 NOK (so almost as much!) for the wine pairings.

Start saving your Norwegian kronor now!

Sabi Omakase

One year after RE-NAA earned a Michelin star in 2016, this spot joined it with one of its own.

A sushi omakase experience limited to 10 diners per seating, Sabi Omakase runs about the same price as RE-NAA, at 1495 NOK per person for food and offering wine pairing at the same price, which is approximately 150 Euros/US$175 for each.

Yes, so now you might have just a bit of an idea why I ate so well in Stavanger during my visit.

It was a big reason I loved Norway, and why I’m now recommending it as a top travel destination to anyone who will listen.

READ MORE: Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Whenever I return to Norway, I’m eager to spend even more time eating my way through the city.

Any other top spots I should check out when I return to Stavanger? What has been your favorite city for eating? Any city that surprised you with its foodie scene?

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Travel Hack: Extra Items You Can Carry On a Plane for FREE

January 24, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 64 comments

As I was standing in line to board my Ryan Air flight back home to Milan from a travel blogging conference in Stockholm two summers ago, I was the vision of chaos.

There was the cardigan and scarf draped over my purse, an umbrella dangling from my wrist, and the bag of food I was holding from the Östermalms Saluhall food hall.

In addition to my purse (‘personal item’ in airline lingo) and my wheeled luggage.

I looked just a little bit different from everyone else in line holding their 2 allowed items and no more.

As everyone looked on in wonder, the flight attendants didn’t bat an eyelash and I boarded with no trouble at all.

No, they weren’t just shirking their jobs, it’s actually the *official policy* of many airlines to let all sorts of additional items on board that don’t count toward your baggage limit.

For those of you who may not know, Ryan Air is a discount European carrier that like most cheap-o airlines, make you pay extra for pretty much everything, including advance seat assignments.

But even with many (although not all) discount carriers, there are plenty of things you can wear or carry outside of the strict measurement limits for luggage when you board.

Extra Stuff You’re Allowed to Carry On

No, really!!

Many airlines even have these items explicitly listed in their official policy if you know where to look on their website.

There are actually a ton of things you can just carry in your hands if you somehow ran out of space in your luggage.

TIP! There are links to some sample policies from around the world toward the bottom of this post.

First of all, don’t squeeze the last ounce of free space out of your baggage on your way *to* somewhere, you’ll need all the wiggle room you can get on the return trip.

Inevitably, even if I don’t buy much along the way, it always seems harder to get everything to fit properly in my luggage when packing it all up on the final night of a trip.

So these tips are really intended for when you have that last item or two you just can’t squeeze in but still want to take back with you.

Here are all of the items that you can wear, hold, or have clipped outside of the allowed luggage dimensions when you board:

Jacket

Even if you’re not cold, even if you’re heading into a tropical heatwave, you can still wear your jacket when you board to free up luggage space.

And there’ll probably even be space in the overhead bin or under your seat if you don’t want to wear it for the entire flight. Or just drape it over your lap – plane rides can get very chilly sometimes.

Clothing Layers

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Sep 19, 2017 at 10:03am PDT

Coming back from my recent trip to Nicaragua, right before I boarded I needed to smush my purse into my backpack so it was a single ‘personal item’ for boarding.

Since the backpack was pretty full already, I wore my cardigan and scarf and tied my fleece jacket around my waist. Instant space creator.

You might not be able to wear all your layers for your security screening, but you sure can wear them to board the plane.

Neck Pillow

Many wheeled bags have a strap you can clip your neck pillow to if you can’t fit it inside.

This is probably the accessory you’ve seen carried separate from luggage most often besides a jacket, and some people even wear it around their neck to board!

Umbrella

I can often wedge this at the bottom of my wheeled back in between the two sides of the handle, but if you’re really strapped for space, it’s not a problem to carry this item separately.

Just put it somewhere on the plane where you’ll remember to bring it with you when you leave.

Camera/Camera Bag

In a pinch, I’ve strapped my bulky camera bag for my ‘fancy camera’ to the outside of my wheeled bag because I just couldn’t get that zipper to close with it inside.

Which is totally fine, because this is also an item that is allowed to be separate from your outer luggage dimension limits.

Hat

When you see someone boarding a place wearing their cowboy hat or wide-brimmed straw hat from the beach, it might not just be a fashion statement.

Wearing it to board can save you precious luggage space if you’re struggling to zip that bag.

Duty Free Purchases

This must be part of some secret backroom deal between airports and airlines.

No matter how bulky or numerous your duty-free items, it’s totally fine to bring them onto the plane with you in addition to your other luggage.

And in some cases, if you purchase alcohol, you won’t even receive your duty-free bag until right as you board.

Merchandise purchased at airport

In many cases, any kind of merchandise purchased at the airport (and especially takeaway food that you’ll probably consume in-flight anyway) don’t count toward your luggage.

Of course, it helps to have this in some sort of obvious container or bag as you board.

TIP! Whether you have the space in your luggage or not, liquids over the 3mL are great items to purchase once you’re through security. On my last trip, both the 500mL water bottle and the 200mL sunscreen I purchased served me well in my travels!

Reading Material

Just hold your book in your hand. There is so much queuing involved with boarding an airplane between getting scanned and making it through the jetbridge, I’m usually holding a book or e-reader in my hand to keep me entertained anyway!

Infant Accessories

I don’t have children, but if you do, there are extra allowances for bringing on board baby supplies, even if the infant will be sitting in your lap the whole time.

These include a car seat, collapsible stroller, and a bag up to 5kg/11 lbs – or more! – with food and diapers (nappies) to cover whatever the baby might need during the flight.

Medical Devices

The interpretation here can be broad, but at a minimum include a cane or crutches, collapsible wheelchair, and any oxygen or dialysis devices you’re dependent on.

All free of charge.

Of course, the exact specifications vary by carrier, and you’ll definitely want to check the specific policy of any airline you’re planning to fly.

Some strict carriers aside (hi EasyJet!), most airlines won’t stop you from boarding while holding any of the above items with you, even if it’s not explicitly mentioned anywhere on their website.

Carry-On Baggage Policies from Around the World

Many policies explicitly will list most, or all of the items above. And some carriers, like Avianca (see below) even allow balloons!

Here are some specific policies from around the world:

North American carrier

Click here for the United Airlines policy
Scroll to bulleted list

South American carrier

Click here for the Avianca Airlines policy
Scroll to “What Can You Take?” then expand “Additional Items”

European carrier

Click here for the Air France policy
Scroll down to yellow border with “Additional Items You May Take on Board…”

Middle Eastern carrier

Click here for the Qatar Airways policy
Expand “Hand baggage allowance” & see box with “Carry more on board”

Asian carrier

Click here for the Malaysia Airlines policy
See #2 and #3

Even if there is no mention in the official boarding policy of the airline you’re flying, so long as it’s not a discount carrier, in all likelihood, no one will stop you with any 3-5 (or even ALL) of the knick knacks listed above whether you’re wearing or holding them or they’re clipped to the outside of your luggage like a neck pillow or camera bag.

I’ve flown dozens of airlines, and never once been stopped with any of the above accessories as I boarded!

Happy flying!!
Lana

Do you usually carry any of the above items outside of your luggage when you board a plane? Any time that you were prevented from bringing one of them on? Anything I missed in terms of carry-on luggage tips? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Practical Tips: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

April 11, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 22 comments

Most people want to eat well on the road, but exactly how to find the best restaurants when you travel can be a tricky endeavor. Most travel destinations are inherently unfamiliar, and restaurants may not operate the way things do “back home,” wherever that is.

Fortunately there are quite a few strategies I’ve picked up in my travels over the years. Not anything is perfectly foolproof, but there are many way to maximize the chances you will be eating fabulous food when you travel.

What to Do

There are plenty of things you can actively do, both before and during a trip, to steer yourself toward delicious restaurants wherever you’ll be visiting. If eating well is a priority for you when you travel, here are a few things to do to ensure you’re eating your best!

Before You Go

Preparation goes a long way when it come to eating well on the road. Here are some specific ways I find great restaurant options in advance:

Research restaurant options ahead of time

Whether your preference is to flip through a physical guidebook or read blog posts online, take the time to research what restaurants are serving great food for you to check out. This is also a great time to keep an eye out for local specialties that are mentioned so you can do some additional searching for the best spots to sample them. It’s also important to plot restaurants on a map, so you know what other sights and activities are nearby.

TIP! Do enough research that you have at least one option in the different areas of the city or town you’ll visit.

TIP! If there are several recommended restaurants close to one another, when I am there in person I will walk by all of the options, read the menus, peek inside, and then decide where to go.

TIP! Sometimes there are great options far out of the city center, which may not be feasible if you have time constraints, so figure out in advance whether you need other closer restaurant options or will make the trek.

Read online restaurant reviews

This seems basic, but not all online reviews are created equal. In recent years, I have found that Google reviews tend to be relatively accurate, with many locals usually contributing, and there is the added convenience of having reviews in other languages automatically being translated into yours. Plus, if you search Google.com for “best restaurants in Venice,” you can then filter by rating, seeing only the results that are rated 4.0+ or 4.5+ out of 5 possible stars.

I tend to use it less for popular places, but if you are headed to a more off-the-beaten path destination, TripAdvisor is a great site to use. And especially for destinations that are not typically popular with tourists, it may be the only resource at your disposal. I found restaurant review information to be very limited on my recent work trip to Haiti, and

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Do targeted online searches

This is one of the best ways I’ve found to identify great restaurants to check out when I visit a new place. Instead of sticking to lists with blanket restaurant recommendations, I look for something specific in that place:

“<city/country name> foodie”
“<city/country name> best local dishes”
“Best Brunch in Sydney”
“Best Coffee in Detroit”
“Best White Rose Dumplings in Hoi An”
“Best Cardamom Buns in Stockholm”

TIP! Also do targeted searches in the local language if it’s not English. It’s easy to use an online dictionary to translate so instead of looking for “Florentine steak in Florence” you’re finding the Italian results by looking for “bistecca alla fiorentina Firenze.” (This is how I found my favorite place in Florence to get this local specialty!)

Ask locals or frequent visitors

Even if you don’t think you have any connection to a place you’re traveling, you might be surprised. While I didn’t know any locals in Barcelona, Spain or Port-au-Prince, Haiti, a friend-of-a-friend was a frequent Barcelona visitor with great recommendations and I was steered in the right direction by my friend’s aunt who visits Haiti often to do non-profit work. In both cases, I had no idea I had a connection – until I asked.

Reserve some restaurants in advance

If there is a place you’ll definitely want to go, it may be worth it (or necessary!) to book your meal in advance. Certain countries rely on reservations more than others and it is also helpful for any popular, high-end restaurants you may be considering, like something from the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants or the most popular Michelin-starred restaurants in a major city.

TIP! Be flexible with what time you’re willing to reserve and consider lunch as an option to increase your chances of obtaining a hard-to-get reservation.

During Your Trip

Sure, preparation is great, but it’s nothing compared to actually being at a destination. There are also plenty of things you can do once you arrive to find the best restaurants and eat well:

Ask at your accommodation

Whether you’re staying at a hotel or an AirBNB, either the concierge or your host probably has great information about the local dining options. In both cases, if there’s something specific you’re looking for (think trendy, or authentic, or a particular cuisine), they can probably help. When in Verona, Italy, I had Osteria da Ugo recommended to me at my hotel when I was looking for local cuisine and it became my go-to restaurant there for return visits.

Ask a local for recommendations

This doesn’t need to be a formal process, but every local you encounter – from asking for directions to taking a taxi ride – is a potential source of great local intel about the best restaurants. I got some great restaurant pointers from someone I met admiring a mural in San Ignacio, Belize.

TIP! Be sure not to just ask for a blanket restaurant recommendation, because you may just have the local suggest the fanciest tourist spot in town they think will be good for a tourist. Instead, be specific with your request. If you want somewhere local, ask where the taxi drivers hang out or locals go.

Keep your eyes open as you stroll

You may already be on the path that will take you to the best food of your trip. Keep an eye out for long winding lines of locals like you’ll see at popular spots like Luini Panzerotti in Milan, Italy, or an appetizing item from a street vendor, like my favorite panelle (fried pancakes made with chick pea flour) in Palermo, Sicily or an amazing local buffet I sampled in Colombo, Sri Lanka.

TIP! Even if it’s not mealtime or you’ve already eaten, keep an eye out to see where locals are gravitating or if you see a cute spot you want to mark on a map to return to for a meal later.

Try out restaurants with a menu you can’t understand

Be adventurous and don’t let a restaurant dissuade you even if there’s no English menu in sight. I had some of my best European meals at restaurants in Mainz, Germany Vienna, Austria and Liechtenstein that all only had German menus but were otherwise inviting. Usually there was a server who could help me to figure things out.

TIP! When in doubt, try dishes or drinks you don’t know the name for. If you see something that looks appetizing, pointing still works for communicating that to a server. Or that time in Bruges, Belgium I picked my beer based on its cool glass, and it turns out I like how Kwak tastes as well!

Follow Your Instincts

No matter how much research you’ve done or how good the online reviews say a restaurant will be, ultimately you need to trust your instincts. On a day trip to Orvieto, Italy from Rome, I had identified a few restaurants as possible lunch options. However as I walked past each in turn during my morning exploring and peeked at their menus, I was not particularly inspired. Another restaurant along the way looked cute and seemed to have special local dishes I hadn’t seen on any other menus, so I went there instead of the places on my list and had an incredible meal!

What to Avoid

While there are plenty of things to seek out, there are also quite a view things that I try to avoid when I travel so I can also avoid having a disappointing restaurant experience. There’s always a limited number of meals you’ll get to experience wherever you’re visiting a destination– and I like to make them the best meals I can!

Things that will make me look for another place to eat:

A “Tourist Menu” or big signboard with multiple menu translations

In all likelihood, I can get a foreigners’ version of a local dish back at home. When I’m on the road, I’m looking to taste the authentic food of a city or country as one of the ways I learn about the destination, not getting something that’s been altered to fit tourists’ tastes.

Being right next to major tourist attractions

Any restaurant that is immediately adjacent to a major tourist attraction has no incentive to produce good food. It will have customers looking for a restaurant out of convenience regardless. So even if I am trying to find a convenient meal, I will walk at least a block or two away for what are likely better and more reasonably priced dining options. This strategy paid large dividends in Berat, Albania:

Hearing lots of English and not the local language

While I wouldn’t expect customers anywhere to be completely comprised of locals, hearing an overwhelming amount of English being spoken somewhere (if it’s not the local language) may mean that a restaurant is catering to foreigners and not locals. Any good restaurant will still attract locals even if there are a lot of tourists who eat there as well.

Greeters posted at the street offering you menus and inviting you in

Maybe that’s how it happens in the movies, but in real life, the best restaurants are always busy and don’t need to work so hard to entice people in. I often see this in my travels along pedestrian streets where all the restaurants are virtually indistinguishable and can only attract business by paying someone to stand outside and usher in customers. A better meal is likely waiting at a restaurant that does not need to do this.

Unsanitary appearance

If something looks off when you first approach a location, take that as a sign that the restaurant does not take great care with its food either. If I see somewhere that is excessively dirty or has visible bugs or animal droppings, I don’t stick around to find out what the food is like. Even if I’ve already sat down.

A restaurant that is not that busy

Certainly there are exceptions to this one – if you are eating earlier or later than typical meal time, for example – but in general if a restaurant is pretty deserted, there is a reason for that. Again, it depends on the context, but even if a spot got great reviews and is on my list, if I walk up and it doesn’t look popular, I am likely to go elsewhere.

Of course, none of these strategies is completely effective, but by doing research in advance and keeping an eye out as I visit a new place, the chances are much greater that I will be finding the best restaurants and eating well on my trip.

What do you look for when picking a restaurant in your travels? Any other things you seek out or avoid? Share your best tips in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Summer Reading List

June 27, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Summertime means vacation for many, and even though I don’t have any long trips planned for this summer, one of the best ways I relax and unwind is curling up with a good book.

Instead of being stuck with what to read next, I always spend some time in June compiling a Summer Reading List. Whether I take a train or airplane, some of my best reading usually happens in transit – and I like to have a variety of books in mind to keep me entertained.

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2017

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2019

This new Summer Reading List is as eclectic as my travel style, so you’ll find it packed with both fiction and non-fiction, covering my randomly-determined categories of Easy Reading, Memoir, On a More Serious Note, Self Improvement, & Thriller.

Here’s what made it onto my 2018 ‘Summer Reading List’:

EASY READING

Circe

by Madeline Miller

This Greek goddess who is the daughter of Helios breaks out into her own and after being banished by Zeus has some of the more memorable encounters in Greek mythology with the Minotaur, Icarus, and Odysseus. Billed as part-fantasy, part-drama, this will definitely offer an escape to another world.