Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat
Impressions
Naples is considered the birthplace of pizza, however the Neapolitan pizza tradition is just scratching the surface of what the city has to offer. Many people pass by Naples on their Italy travels, or stay for just a few hours when transiting, but there is such a special personality of the city that warrants a longer stay. You can read more about my impressions of Naples and all of the crazy experiences I’ve had that represent some of the spirit there in a previous post here.
Sights in Naples range from the subterranean tunnel system to opulent churches with incredible art collections and castles with incredible vistas of the harbor. The intensity and bustle of the city is matched by the variety and flavor of the many local culinary specialties, and a few days or a weekend is needed even just to eat your way through Naples, let alone appreciate all its beauty. Keep scrolling for all of the things you’ll want to spend your time doing, and where to eat some incredible food along the way.
Things to Do
Amazing art
Pompeii is of course worth a visit all on its own, however the Archaeological museum in Naples itself is where a lot of the art from Pompeii is displayed. It’s an incredible collection well worth the time to explore (I spent several hours).
Pio Monte della Misericordia
I went inside on a whim one of the many times I was walking along Via dei Tribunali, one of the central streets close to many churches and restaurants. Although it is a church, there is a fairly large collection of impressive artwork and objects, including Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy.
The highlight of this museum-chapel is the tomb monument known as ‘the veiled Christ.’ Like all transcendent art, you see it once, and then anywhere else you are in the room, your eyes keep getting drawn back to appreciate its beauty.
Other churches of note
Duomo
The word Duomo means cathedral in Italian, making it a top sight in most Italian cities. The Duomo in Naples is no exception, and it especially notable for the Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro, a museum of well-adorned art treasures connected to the cathedral.
Church of Gesù Nuovo
This is a very different looking church from the others you’ll see in Naples, especially from the outside with its dark stone facade, starkly contrasting with the golden colors of its interior. It’s a popular place for locals to attend service on Sundays, so plan your visit accordingly.
Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore
Pretty much in the exact historic center, the inside is not as opulent as some of the other churches, but this Basilica boasts extensive history, including the remnants of an ancient Roman market underneath.
Around town
Napoli Sottoranea (Naples Underground)
This is a tunnel tour well worth your time, exploring the tunnel system under the city. History in the tunnels ranges from use as a water source in ancient times to being used as a shelter during World War II, and even includes the remains of a Roman theater that is concealed by the many homes and apartments it borders.
Spaccanapoli
This street is easily spotted from any vantage point in Naples as the pedestrian walkway that cuts a straight line through the historical center. Mentioned often in Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it is still a bustling street where locals spend their leisure time.
Porta Nolana market
Visiting a market is a must to get a feel for the true chaos of Naples. The Porta Nolana market is mostly known for its fish and seafood, although you can find typical market fare as well.
Lungomare Caracciolo
Lungomare literally means the length of the sea, and is the pedestrian promenade along the Gulf of Naples. You’ll find many locals taking a stroll here in the late afternoon, watching breathtaking sunset views.
Amazing views/Off the beaten path
Capodimonte Museum
There are some famous works of art housed here and I enjoyed my visit, but I appreciated the location even more for its expansive views and the popular park surrounding the museum building.
Close to the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito, this literal “new castle” is quite distinctive-looking and considered a city landmark, and dates from medieval times.
Castle of St. Elmo & Certosa e Museo di San Martino
The castle and nearby former monastery/museum are both accessible on the same hilltop by either metro or funicular from the center (followed by a bit of walking). The views from both are breathtaking, and they are not very crowded – I had some great opportunities to sit and appreciate the view in solitude. Also check out the nearby Friggitoria Vomero (see below) for a quick bite.
While the castle itself has irregular hours and I did not get a chance to visit, it is located on a small peninsula jutting out from the mainland not far from the Piazza del Plebiscito. Worth a visit for its lovely views of coastal Naples, especially at sunset.
Piazza del Plebiscito
This piazza, or square, has a very different look and feel from other parts of the city. It is an austere semi-circular open expanse lined by traditional columns and the domed Basilica Reale, or royal basilica.
Best Bites (& Sips)
Coffee
On Piazza Dante, Caffe’ Mexico is considered by many to be the best coffee in Naples. The interior is traditional as is the espresso: deep brown and intense. Local coffee in Naples packs a particularly strong punch, even by Italian standards, and the version at Caffe’ Mexico exemplifies why coffee was its own entry on my list of Top 10 Things to Eat and Drink in Naples.
Beware imposters, there are a ton of similarly named places in the immediate vicinity of the real (vero) bar where caffè alla nocciola was created, but it is worth seeking out the original spot where espresso was mixed with whipped hazelnut (nocciola) cream. Mmmmm . . .
Pastries
Sfogliatelle Attanasio
Open daily except Monday, take a number to join the queue for the piping hot sfogliatella, a seashell-looking pastry which is served here with the perfect balance of ricotta, citrus, and crispy outside. It is quite close to the central train station, making it an easy stop for visitors (and loads of locals).
Pastisseria Capriccio di Salvatore Capparelli
This spot is my go-to spot for babà on Via dei Tribunali, serving up a light-as-air version of the local rum cake that somehow has still soaked up all the syrupy goodness without being too sweet.
Restaurants
Neapolitans could probably argue for days over which pizzeria serves the best pizza in Naples. I had a particularly delicious one here, on a recommendation from a friend-of-a-friend who is from Naples. It’s not such a well-kept secret though, learn more about what makes their dough so special here.
Friggitoria Vomero
This friggitoria (a vendor of fried goodies), was a small, authentic spot close to the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. The smell draws you in and then you are presented with many fried options to choose from, although I think the fried polenta and fried zucchini blossoms, fiori di zucca, were my best bites.
Also close to the central train station, this is another popular place that keeps the order of people waiting by taking a number. There are several varieties of fried pizza available, although my favorite bite might have been what was essentially fried macaroni and cheese (technically with bechamel, but same thing really). And best of all, you get to watch them assemble and fry your choices.
A charming spot with local specialties done well and friendly service. It’s small, but cozy, and filled with lots of Italians. I dined on my own and it felt like I was being welcomed into someone’s home.
Limoncello
Also along the Via dei Tribunali stretch and right by the Naples Underground, this factory makes several lemon-based products, including limoncello, the famous local lemon liqueur, usually imbibed at the end of a hearty meal to aid digestion (literally a digestivo). Unlike souvenir shops, at Limonè you can taste the different varieties of limoncello before you buy. I like both their traditional limoncello and their crema di limone, the cream version.
Have you visited Naples? What were your highlights? Anything I should add to the Cheat Sheet? Let me know in the Comments!
