Hidden Gem: The Tile Museum in Palermo, Sicily

September 7, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

“I’m sorry, we’re not doing any tours today.”

As a visitor intent on seeing a particular sight, this can be one of the most disconcerting messages you hear in your travels. But of course it is one that comes up every now and again, and is simply part of the whole travel experience, which does not always work out perfectly.

Visiting the Palermo Tile Museum was a complete fluke. My friend Isabel and I left it until the last day of our long weekend in this Sicilian city to even attempt to visit for the first time. We had a bunch of hours to enjoy Palermo before catching our return flight to Milan in the afternoon, and a few last things to see.

And even seeking out the Tile Museum at all was somewhat random, as it didn’t come up in most of my pre-trip research – although where I found any information, it received rave reviews.

So this Monday morning, we walk up to the street address for the museum entrance and are faced with what looks like your standard Italian apartment building, with a row of labeled buzzers.

At first, we think that surely we’re in the wrong place. There is no prominent sign labeling any type of museum, and certainly no open entrances to welcome us in.

Only after walking up and down the block a few times do we realize that the address is in fact correct, and that one of the buzzers, if you peer closely, lists the museum and displays a phone number.

I call the cell phone number indicated, and find out that a reservation is needed. At this point, I’m cautiously optimistic, and hoping that since Isabel and I speak both English and Italian, surely there will be a tour we can join in one of those languages.

Unfortunately there is no tour planned until after our flight back to Milan – that disappointing message of “I’m sorry, we’re not doing any tours today.” So I say a polite thank you, relay the disappointing news to Isabel, and we start strolling in the direction of Botanical Garden as a backup plan.

This is when we have what I’m starting to think of more and more as one of those magical Italian moments.

My phone rings, and the number looks vaguely familiar. It is the same gentleman calling back, offering us a tour in Italian for just the two of us. It sounds cliché, but my heart leapt with the news after the disappointment of hearing that a tour would not be possible. We were getting to see this mystery of a place!

As you can see in the photo below, entering this apartment really is just like any other residential building:

We find out at the start of the tour with our passionate, knowledgeable guide that this is because one of the most impressive tile collections in the world was part of someone’s private collection.

The apartment that houses the museum is called the Stanze al Genio, the rooms of the genius? Or genie? It is not large, but the tile collection is so enormous that it feels like every available space is dedicated to displaying these lovely items.

Tiles in the south of Italy are commonly seen in hues of blue, yellow, and green, but the variety of this collection goes well beyond that. Colorful hues, interesting designs, and even some tiles with images like those you’ll find at the ruins of Pompeii, outside Naples:

And there’s nothing better than a tour guide who is excited about the collection to share interesting tidbits and answer your questions with enthusiasm.

I felt incredibly fortunate to have made it inside the doors of this museum at all. And while not large, the museum contained one of the most unique and well-curated collections that I’ve been privileged to visit in my travels.

I think for both me and Isabel, it was one of the most memorable moments of our weekend trip. And a spot I recommend to anyone visiting Palermo!

Certainly, we were very lucky on the day we visited, but if you want to visit the Stanze al Genio, I wouldn’t count on winging it, here’s the right way to visit:

Stanze al Genio

Visits are available 7 days a week, by appointment

E-mail or call *in advance* to schedule:

stanzealgenio@yahoo.it

English: +39 380 367 3773

Italiano: +39 340 097 1561

The website is currently under construction, but check the link above for the most updated information.

There’s also a Bed & Breakfast on the property!

I didn’t stay here, but if you are interested in having these spaces be your accommodations in Palermo (or just want to check out photos of more beautiful tiles!), check out their site here.

Happy travels!

Where was the last hidden gem you discovered? Any other spots you loved in Palermo? Let me know in the Comments!

Enjoyed this post? ‘Pin it’ to share on Pinterest & save for later!

9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

June 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Belize is a destination that over-delivers, with unexpected adventure and incredibly easy travel on any budget.

My decision to visit Belize was a bit last-minute, so it ended up being a solo trip, since there wasn’t enough time to coordinate with anyone and I had a narrow time window that worked with my schedule. Certainly I love to travel solo, although I do think about and plan my travel a bit differently when I know I’ll be on my own.

Although I did a bit of extra planning and coordinated one organized tour in advance, a lot of the additional preparation was not needed. It was just such an easy place to visit, with really incredible sights to see and explore once you arrived! It even boasts the Belize Barrier Reef, the longest in the western hemisphere, making for great water adventures as well.

Even for those who can be a bit apprehensive about international travel, visiting Belize is a very relaxed and easy vacation to enjoy.

#1 | People are Friendly

I had only stopped for a moment after arriving in San Ignacio by bus, to glance at the map on my phone to locate my guesthouse. During this brief pause, the police officer directing traffic at the nearby roundabout headed my way to ask if he could help me find my destination.

This encounter was typical of many I had in Belize, with locals approaching you to offer help if you paused and looked confused. Or even if you approached them, like I did when I first arrived at the Belize Bus Station from the airport, offering comprehensive and helpful information to help you arrive at your destination smoothly or just taking the time to get to know you and see how you’re liking your time in Belize.

#2 | Everyone speaks English

I don’t think it registered with me before my trip that Belize is part of the British Commonwealth. Until I saw Queen Elizabeth on all their currency, anyway! Belize only gained independence in 1981 (quite recently as Commonwealth countries go), and everyone I encountered there spoke English. Certainly for native English speakers, or those of other nationalities with even rudimentary English skills, this takes out a lot of the stress of visiting a foreign country.

While English is the official language, certainly Spanish is widely spoken, especially close to the Guatemalan border. And there is also a fair amount of Kriol (the local Creole language) and some other languages of the region.

#3 | Transport around Belize is easy

Depending on your comfort level and budget, there are plenty of options for how to get around Belize during your trip:

Renting a car. I like to have a buddy for road trips, so I didn’t opt to rent a car, although many do for their time in Belize. And road signs are all in English.

Buses. Buses are what I took most often, to get between cities and also for shorter day trips to Mayan ruins. The buses in Belize may look familiar, because they are second-hand school buses purchased from the United States! Many of them stay their original yellow color, although some bus companies paint over with other hues.

Between cities it can take a while on the bus (besides the Express), since they’ll stop at countless bus stops and intersections along the way. But especially for local buses, I found it extremely useful as a tourist since each bus has a person dedicated to taking money – and not driving – who can make sure you get off in the right spot for where you want to go. Plus, they’re cheap!

Taxis. Certain spots, like getting from the Belize City Airport to the Bus Station, are just easier in a taxi. Usually there is a fixed fare for these journeys, and even outside of the cities, there was always a local nearby who knew the going rate for a cab ride. Ask locals about the price to expect before you go, and you’ll know you’re paying a fair price.

Ferries/Water Taxis. If you’re visiting Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye off the coast of Belize City, most people opt for one of the water taxis that run across. There are also various spots along the coast with ferries. From Danriga, I took a bus to Independence (which was leaving much sooner than the Placencia bus), and then got a ferry to Placencia Town at the tip of the peninsula.

Flights. There are a lot of short-hop flights on local carriers like Maya Air and Tropic Air, especially along the coast. It’s definitely more expensive than the bus, but will get you to your destination much faster and with stunning views along the way as the planes fly quite low. I took one flight to get to the airport on my way home, so I didn’t have to leave super-early in the morning or stress about traffic on the road to Belize City.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUNElCFg6xX/

Car Transfers. If the thought of inter-city travel on an old school bus without air conditioning gives you pause, don’t worry, that’s not your only option. There are several car transfer companies that offer a more comfortable, air-conditioned, direct ride to your destination. Most hotels and guesthouses can arrange this for you in advance.

#4 | It’s easy to travel on a budget

While there are some costs you can’t avoid, overall travel around Belize is quite inexpensive, even if it’s accurately known as the most expensive country in Central America. That’s only by comparison to some very cheap places to visit.

Especially with taking bus transportation and doing some exploring on your own, you can get around and eat well for not all that much. If you’re willing to forego air conditioning, you can get true budget accommodations, but even my private room in a guesthouse with air conditioning in San Ignacio was only around $50 USD/night.

Plan for the budget you have, but cost should definitely not be a deterrent to visiting!

#5 | You can pay in US dollars pretty much anywhere

If you’re American or arriving from the US, you’ll be pleased to know that you can pay in US dollars throughout Belize. This includes taxis, random small town buses, and street vendors, as well as more established hotels and businesses. I never had my US dollars refused.

Typically when you pay with US currency, you’ll get Belizean dollars (BZD) as change, although sometimes I was offered a mix of USD and BZD. Don’t worry, it’s an easy conversion because the currencies are tied together: $1 US = $2 BZD.

I brought a fair bit of cash, and between that and paying for tours with a credit card when I could, I didn’t need to go to an ATM or formally exchange money the entire trip. Although since credit cards charge a conversion fee, it would have actually been a bit cheaper to pay for everything in cash, which I didn’t realize ahead of time. If you’re comfortable carrying that much, anyway.

TIP! Be sure to check whether prices are in USD or BZD at restaurants and shops since both currencies use the dollar sign ($) and you’ll want to know the actual cost of what you’re getting.

#6 | All sorts of adventures await

One of the main things that drew me to visit Belize was adventure. There are all sorts of active and outdoor activities to enjoy, and many of these are clustered in certain parts of the country, so it’s easy to have a single home base and do day trips in different directions, as I did from San Ignacio.

Adventures include:

exploring and climbing Mayan ruins (went to a few of these)
hiking
caving
swimming in waterfalls (did this twice)
visiting wildlife preserves
some of the best scuba diving and snorkeling in the world (I saw a manatee!)

https://www.instagram.com/p/BUIq-xiArFs/

#7 | Tours are readily available

If you’re not quite as independent on the road as I am, or want to follow my lead and break up solo travel with a few organized tours, there is availability of tours for just about everything you might want to do. There are also a few outings that for preservation reasons, you can only enter with a tour guide.

I did full-day tours to the ATM cave (tour guide required), a day trip to Tikal in Guatemala, & a visit to a Mayan chocolate farm and factory (pictured above) followed by swimming in a waterfall. When I was staying at the beach, I also did a ½ day snorkeling tour at the last minute.

The only tour I arranged in advance was to visit the chocolate farm and factory, and all my other day trips I was able to arrange the night before. Most tours have a minimum of 2 people, so as a solo traveler, I just found out which tours already had people signed up for the following day. Or you can always pay a premium for a private tour.

#8 | You can relax on one of the countless beaches

On the Caribbean coast, Hopkins and Placencia (where I stayed), are the most popular beach destinations. But a country like Belize is not limited to a single coastline because there are hundreds of cayes!

Cayes are small islands of varying sizes, many with pristine white beaches and incredible snorkeling and diving in the surrounding water. Larger cayes will have accommodations available, so you can stay overnight or in some cases have a private section of beach to enjoy.

#9 | Great food everywhere you go

There some fabulous restaurants scattered throughout Belize. These range from fancy seafood restaurants, ones serving traditional Belizean cuisine, ethnic restaurants (lots of Chinese food), and upscale French and Italian spots.

There is also a strong street food culture. Which means that you can eat well everywhere, even in transit. And the cheapest food you can get, typically from a street food vendor, is often the most delicious.

You can get a sense of how much I enjoyed Belize because although I only recently returned from my trip, I am already strategizing about how to go back for a return visit!

I was a bit too early for the annual Lobster Festivals that take place in a few different coastal towns when lobster season begins each year on June 15^th. And I didn’t make it to the most popular part of Belize – the Cayes (Caulker & Ambergris).

Next time…

Have you been to Belize? What made it an enjoyable experience for you? Any other questions about what it’s like to visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

Like this post? ‘Pin it’ on Pinterest!

How to Spend One Day in Cremona, Italy

April 25, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Living in Milan, I was always on the lookout for easy day trips from the city, and I just could not pass up the opportunity to check out Cremona. What started on a whim turned into one of the most rewarding day trips I took anywhere during my three years in Italy.

What makes a day in Cremona so incredible? Like Mainz (my favorite day trip from Frankfurt, Germany), Cremona has stunningly beautiful sights to see, all of which can be visited in a single, relaxing day. This makes it a perfect candidate for a day trip, when you can see quite a bit and feel like you’ve covered the main tourist attractions.

I arrived seeking out the world-famous Stradivarius violins, and found so much more to explore and appreciate when I arrived. Even this New York Times article notes, “There’s More to Cremona Than Violins.” Most of the top things to do are around the main square, or piazza, with other sights to see depending on your interests.

That is not to discount the beauty of the violins, though. I spent far longer in the Violin Museum than I typically would, both for the extensive, interactive exhibits and also the sheer beauty of the Stradivarius violins. As happens to me sometimes, I stood awestruck at the incredible beauty and craftsmanship of the violins. Truly mesmerizing, and this is not just blogger hyperbole here. You can read more about this top experience of 2016 for me here in my post about being thankful, and of course below.

Cremona, despite not having a university or nearby wine region, is one of the more impressive places you can spend a day in Italy. A few reasons why…

Things to Do

Cathedral & Baptistery

Cremona’s Cathedral is quite impressive, dating back to the 12^th century and decorated inside with beautiful artwork. The complex is quite large, and each facade has a different appearance to take in. The octagonal Baptistery nearby is formally a Cathedral annex, where children would be baptized before being allowed to enter the Cathedral. It is a fairly bare building possibly more impressive from the outside, but it’s worth popping in if you’ve purchased a combination ticket (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting‘ section below).

Piazza del Commune

This is the main piazza in town, where you’ll find the Cathedral, Baptistery, and Bell Tower. However, the piazza itself is quite striking, and there are a variety of open areas with sculptures and other art along its perimeter. Leave aside time just to wander around, especially along the many pedestrian side streets that connect to the square.

Torazzo Bell Tower & Astronomical Clock

The Bell Tower and its Astronomical Clock, adjacent to the Cathedral, were two unexpected superlatives of my time in Cremona. The Torazzo of Cremona is the 3^rd-tallest brick tower in the world! Not only can you gaze upon it from the Piazza del Commune, but it is also possible to climb its 502 steps to the top. I love being able to get a high viewpoint whenever I can as I travel, and it’s lovely to look over the surrounding countryside.

On the outside facade of the Torazzo is the largest astronomical clock in the world! It tracks the movements of the sun and moon, as well as eclipses. You can get a closer look at its inner mechanism and explore an exhibit about how it works when you climb the tower. Definitely one of the highlights of my day.

Violin Museum (Museo del Violino)

This is the main attraction for most visitors to Cremona, and one of the best museums I’ve ever visited. Unfortunately pictures are forbidden inside, however I’ve included a picture above from when some instruments were on loan to another museum.

Highlights of visiting included the detailed and interactive displays on crafting violins, from the most famous ones made by Antonio Stradivari to those crafted by other local artisans. Stradivari even made a pretty fabulously-decorated guitar! I was completely mesmerized by the beauty of his instruments, and just couldn’t take my eyes off of them. You can read more about the experience here in my post about being thankful.

Another of the most interesting parts for me were the instruments on display from the many years of the triennial violin-making competition. Not only could you see the various violins, violas, basses, and cellos on display, but there were snippets of music that had been played on each that you could listen to on the audio guide. And they really did all sound different!

TIP! There are a lot of concerts and special events at the museum, check the schedule online before you go.

TIP! If you’d like to visit during the triennial violin-making competition, the next one is in 2018!

Best Bites

Hosteria 700

I sought this restaurant out because it offers a lot of Cremonese specialties, like the stuffed marubini pasta, often filled with a mixture of beef, chicken, and veal. They also have some innovative ways to present Italian ingredients, like the shockingly sweet caramelized onion tatin, with a gelato made of grana cheese. A very elevated and satisfying dining experience for such a small Italian town.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

The easiest way to arrive in Cremona is by train, and most sights are in easy walking distance of the train station. There are many direct trains a day from Milan, as well as other northern Italian towns, like Brescia. Cremona is just over an hour by train from Milan.

When you arrive, a lot of the main sights to see are part of the Cathedral complex. Be sure to ask about combined entrance tickets for discounted admission.

Certainly this is not an exhaustive list of the sights to see in Cremona, and a lot of the beauty I took in was just from strolling around town. If you spend more time or have a more ambitious itinerary, you can seek out some of the other tourist attractions, like the Stradivarius house, the Archaeological Museum, the Po River, and other churches around town.

Have you ever visited a place for a single sight? Would *you* go to Cremona just to see the Stradivarius violins?

Like this post? ‘Pin it’ for later!

10 Amazing Things You Probably Didn’t Know about Stockholm

March 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I consider myself an avid and fairly knowledgeable traveler, yet on my first trip to Stockholm last year for a blogging conference, I realized how woefully inadequate my knowledge of Stockholm and Sweden really was. Other than devouring The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo book series that is set there, what did I really know about the city?

Scandinavia for me, even when I was living in Europe, was always put off as a travel destination because there were cities I could get to for cheaper for a weekend escape. Unless I was going skiing or to see the northern lights, winter was probably not the right season for a trip, and the timing never seemed to be right during summer. Although after having visited Stockholm in July, I now think that Stockholm would be even better to visit outside of summer, maybe during the spring or fall.

Perhaps because I had so few expectations, was Stockholm able to surprise me with so many quirks and unexpected twists of history that crossed the city’s path. From sights and foods that I had no clue about, to observations about the city and Swedes in general, I left with a whole new appreciation for Stockholm. Compiling this list is making me yearn for a return visit, and will make you want to visit as soon as you can!

Some things that surprised me…

#1 | Stockholm is a City on Water

When I say this, I don’t mean that Stockholm has a river running down the middle. The whole city is made of up islands! It’s not the only city with this moniker, but many refer to Stockholm as the ‘Venice of the North.’ Stockholm is made up of a bunch of 14 islands and 57 bridges, all of which compose part of Sweden’s largest archipelago. I loved crossing the bridges on foot to move between the sights on the different islands, and there are some stunning views across the water, as you can see. I really was clueless on this one before my visit, so don’t feel bad if you were, too! I always pictured Scandinavian cities as having quaint buildings in close proximity, but I was totally unprepared to visit a city I thought of as being squarely on land that instead had waterways seemingly everywhere you looked.

#2 | What’s the currency?

I’m used to handling currency with the faces of serious historical figures or past presidents, prime ministers, and royalty. Sweden? They put Swedish figures of all flavors on their money, from movie stars to authors, including multiple women! Pictured above is the 20 kronor note is Astrid Lindgren, author of Pippi Longstocking (who you can also see pictured on the bill if you look closely). Other current banknotes in circulation depict Greta Garbo and Ingmar Bergman. But as cool as the cash is (to me as a foreigner, anyway), there is a strong move toward using cards and not cash. Credit cards are accepted pretty much everywhere, for any size transaction, and some places won’t even take cash! Check out that sign above from Fotografiska, a Stockholm photography museum that won’t accept cash for its admission.

#3 | The World’s Longest Art Exhibit

I’ve seen art in metro stations before, but the sheer scope of the art in Stockholm’s 110 kilometers of subway stops has led to it being called the ‘World’s Longest Art Exhibit.’ Originally conceived as a way to bring art to the people, over 90 of Stockholm’s 100 subway stations have artists’ works, each specifically designed for the station and covering many different themes and types of art. This gallery with photographs of different station art gives a sense of how colorful and varied the artists’ approaches have been over the years, and in some cases, how the final artwork is an all-encompassing experience for those passing through the station.

#4 | Stockholm Resurrected a Ship After Over 300 Years at the Bottom of the Sea

The most famous shipwreck I had never heard of before? The 1628 sinking of the Vasa warship just over a kilometer after it departed on its maiden voyage. You might wonder if it was under attack or perhaps had struck something and then sunk? Nope. Covered in cannons, the boat was a bit top-heavy, and tragically tipped over and sunk after some wind gusts caused water to gush in and the ship couldn’t right itself. Many onlookers had crowded Stockholm’s shores to see the ship off, so the tragedy was witnessed by many, with 30 of the crew perishing in the accident. After several failed attempts at the time to recover the ship, it lay nearly forgotten until centuries later.

The 1^st cool thing – Sweden raised the ship after 333 years! This was no small feat, as they raised the entire ship, not just bringing up the sections piecemeal. The 2^nd cool thing – how they preserved the ship once it was recovered. Apparently you can’t just take a ship out of water after several hundred years and expect it to be like new. For 17 straight years, the ship was continuously hosed with a special solution to keep it preserved and prevent cracking as it dried. The combination of the brackish water (not quite as salty as an ocean) and cold temperatures meant that when the ship was raised, its contents were incredibly well-preserved. Apparently the waters surrounding Stockholm were also quite polluted during that time, keeping away many of the critters that would have otherwise consumed the wood. And today you get to visit the continued preservation home of the Vasa ship, where you can see the intricate wood ornamentation up close at Stockholm’s Vasa Museum, constructed around the ship.

#5 | Behold, the Cardamom Bun

Sure, you’ve heard of a cinnamon bun, and maybe even knew from visiting your local IKEA store that cinnamon buns are a Swedish thing. What you probably didn’t realize is that when you are in Stockholm the more common (and in my opinion, more delicious) sweet bun is actually the cardamom bun. If you’re not familiar, cardamom is an aromatic spice that shows up in chai tea and that I’ve only ever used before for cooking Indian recipes like curry. So what on earth is it doing as the main spice to accompany the sweets enjoyed during fika, the Swedish coffee break?

Legend has it that cardamom was introduced to Scandinavia by the Vikings quite some time ago, and now cardamom is all the rage in breads and other pastries there. I had at least 1 cardamom bun a day while I was in Stockholm, and they are just the right mixture of savory and sweet for me. After all of my reckless consumption research, check out my post on the Best Bites in Stockholm for where I enjoyed my favorite version.

#6 | Swedes take Design Very Seriously

For many, IKEA is synonymous with Swedish design and with good reason. The company’s streamlined approach has made millions of people all across the world familiar with assembling an IKEA bookshelf or table. It’s not just the result of a designer making a pretty drawing, though. As you can see above, the steps of a homemaker were traced and recorded, leading to the design of an IKEA kitchen that would be as efficient as possible. There is also a sense of design even in the public spaces around Stockholm. From outside gathering areas to the quotes you can see above that were interwoven into street pavement, it is all about the little touches and detail that enhance your everyday experience.

#7 | Sweden was Neutral During World War II, But Played an Important Role

Since Sweden was officially neutral during the Second World War, I don’t think I had given much thought to any role it might have had. However, there are many reminders around the city of Stockholm of ways that Sweden played a part. During the war, Sweden gave asylum to nearly 1,000 Norwegian Jews and accepted (and saved) nearly the entire Danish Jewish population after Denmark became occupied by the Nazis. And commemorated in the Stockholm memorial pictured above is Raoul Wallenberg, a Swedish diplomat stationed in Budapest during the war who issued protective passports to tens of thousands of Jews there. He was supposedly captured by the Soviets before the end of the war, and never resurfaced, with a formal declaration of death only just being issued in late 2016.

#8 | Nobel’s Legacy in Stockholm

I follow the hoopla surrounding the Nobel prize winners each year, but I don’t think it clicked that with the exception of the Nobel Peace Prize (which is given in Oslo, Norway) all of the other prizes are awarded in Stockholm. The annual banquet is held at Stockholm City Hall, and you can visit the Hall there that serves as the current venue for the illustrious meal. Stockholm also boasts a Nobel Museum that I visited, with many significant objects on display that past prize winners donated and information about their contributions. Honestly, the museum was quite outdated, but I geeked out anyway. And for any future visits, a major modernization effort for the museum is currently in the works.

#9 | Gourmet Hot Dogs Everywhere You Turn

I was ready for the Swedish food – cinnamon buns, meatballs, cured salmon, lingonberry jam, but . . . hot dogs?!? And we’re not just talking one or two different varieties, here. Many vendors I saw had dozens of different varieties of Swedish hot dog or korv, each with its own unique blend of spices combined with different types of meat. Korv definitely made my list of ‘Unexpected Foods to Seek Out in European Cities’ and with the perfect spicy, meat blend on a toasted baguette and the right mix of condiments, this also ended up being one of the best things I ate during my visit. Head to my post on Stockholm’s Best Bites for where I enjoyed the best hot dog of the trip.

#10 | A Whole Museum Dedicated to ABBA

ABBA, the 70s pop group that took the world by storm with chart toppers like “Mamma Mia” and “Dancing Queen,” formed in Stockholm. So I guess it shouldn’t have come as a surprise that there is an entire museum dedicated to not only their music, but the outrageous outfits and good time that they inspired. Entering immediately transports you to the 70s, with bell bottoms and bright colored lights everywhere you look. It’s hugely interactive, from karaoke opportunities to starring in your own music video where you get to dance along to the ABBA hits. And if you’re like me, the catchy tunes will be swirling around in your head for days afterward.

It’s not often that a city surprises me as much as Stockholm did. Some of the things I discovered might have come up in more thorough research before my trip, but other items on my list I feel like I only would have learned by visiting and exploring in person. The beauty of travel =)

What was the last travel destination that caught *you* by surprise? Anything else that surprised you about Stockholm that didn’t make my list? Share in the ‘Comments’ below.

Like this post? ‘Pin It’ on Pinterest for later?

Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

March 21, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

A friend first sang Oman’s praises around two years ago, talking about this country as being unspoiled Middle East. Then last April my sister had a similarly wonderful experience. After my December road trip there with my other sister, I too came back raving about this lesser-visited corner of the Middle East. So much so that Oman made my list of Top 10 Destinations for 2017, and I keep recommending it when people ask for somewhere ‘off the beaten path’ to go. But just because you won’t find Oman inundated with tourists doesn’t mean that it’s any less stunning than other nearby destinations. It’s less commercialized than other countries in the region, making it a more authentic-feeling experience. And the Omani hospitality is incredible everywhere, so you can’t help but to feel welcome when you visit.

The highlights of my week-long visit vary from natural attractions to modern buildings to UNESCO World Heritage sites dating back millenia, and I don’t exaggerate when I say that each was a special experience during my time in Oman:

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

This mosque in Oman’s capital city of Muscat is part of a huge and breathtakingly beautiful complex of prayer rooms, pathways, and gardens. The main prayer room is notable for having the second-largest chandelier and carpet in the world, and this is certainly where you’ll find the largest concentration of tourists. But the complex is vast enough that you can be alone for a lot of your wandering, just taking in the small details of every architectural feature and decorative element. And despite being only about 20 years old, the mosque transmits a strong sense of history as you explore. It’s also stunning when lit up at night.

Al Alam Royal Palace

I knew in advance that there would be no possibility of visiting the inside of the Sultan’s palace in Muscat, so I expected that it would be a quick stop to snap a few photos and then continue on. But like many things in Oman, there is more beauty to take in than you ever could have expected. You’ll know you’re looking at a picture of the Sultan’s Palace by its distinctive bright colors, but of course it is not just a single building but a huge area with many buildings and broad pedestrian walkways leading up to the palace. Close to the water, there are also several former Portuguese forts that are visible on the nearby hills.

Walk to Sawadi Island

Yes, you read that correctly, we walked to an island! About an hour’s drive north of Muscat along the Omani coast are a series of islands, and during low tide you can make your way across on foot from Al Sawadi beach. This was one of my Travel Superlatives for 2016, as one of the most adventurous things I did all year. My sister and I crossed about two hours before low-tide, and the water level reached just above the knees for both of us, and then returned on foot in shallower water close to low tide and sunset. Fortunately we both had our water-ready sport sandals on, and so when we arrived on the island, we were able to hike to the top of the island’s hill where there is a fort complex to explore. And the best part? It was a weekday and we had the island all to ourselves.

Forts and Castles

It’s sometimes hard to distinguish between the forts and castles (and some structures were used as both at different points in time), but there are hundreds across Oman and you’ll definitely see quite a few during your visit. I certainly didn’t know to expect one walking to Sawadi island, and they turned up unexpectedly many times during the trip. Although I did visit the Bahla Fort, one of the UNESCO-designated ones, there was poor signage in most places, which took away from the visit. The Nizwa Fort is also notable, with a distinctive cylindrical tower and close to a centrally located town where we spent a couple of nights. Certainly my favorite one to visit was the Jabreen (Jibreen) Castle, which has extensive signage and explanations of the different areas, and also has a lot of original decorative elements still visible.

Jabal Shams & the Grand Canyon of Oman

This mountainous area northwest of Nizwa known as the Jabal Shams contains many peaks as well as deep valleys and canyons, the area known as the Grand Canyon of Oman. Accessible only by a 4×4 vehicle, you’ll either need to have rented one or hire your own tour guide. There is some information you can get at your accommodations in terms of hiking routes, although if you are not especially comfortable on your own you’ll want to hire a guide. Definitely spend a day here, wandering the hiking trails, taking in the views, and seeing some of the water-blessed areas sprinkled throughout.

Aflaj, Oman’s Ancient Irrigation Channels

Aflaj is the plural of falaj, the local name for a single ancient irrigation channel. The aflaj system throughout Oman and dating back around 2,000 years is so remarkable that it has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I too was wowed by its ingenuity. These clever channels are no longer used as a water source for drinking, but still to this day capture and funnel water for different farming purposes and even to fill pools for swimming. Typically there are stones that are fit to the gaps between different channels, allowing for control of the water flow depending on the needs of the moment. The simplicity and elegance of this ancient system for me rivaled the aqueducts of the Roman Empire, and I loved being able to see them in different parts of the country. The most intricate falaj I saw was at Misfat al Abriyyin, although they are also visible at Falaj Daris Park by Nizwa, and in several wadis, inlcuding Wadi Bani Khalid (see more below).

Stay Overnight in the Desert

Oman, like other countries in the Middle East, is comprised of quite a few desert areas that still have nomadic peoples wandering through. There are also a number of options for staying overnight in the desert, from desert camps where you’ll stay in a tent to regular hotel rooms that are simply far away from the rest of civilization. I love staying in tents whenever I can, for the peace of the desert at night and for visibility of the stars on a clear night.

Wadi Bani Khalid

This is the destination for a popular weekend trip, even for those who live several hundred kilometers away in Muscat. The waters in this desert oasis are ample year-round, and there are quite a lot of marked trails and a couple of restaurants on site to cater to all the visitors. This wadi is known for its caves, which remain difficult to access unless you find a hospitable Omani like we did, and for its connected pools where you can do a water hike between the different levels. As many locals come here – especially on the weekend of Friday and Saturday – be sure to dress modestly, even for the time you’ll spend in the water swimming. Like many wadis, the water here is filled with fish that will give you a natural pedicure by nibbling off the dead skin on your feet. I tried this, but decided that the sensation was just not for me, although most people seemed to enjoy (or at least tolerate) the nibbling for the smooth feet you’ll get if you’re patient.

Bimmah Sinkhole

Called the “world’s most stunning sinkhole” by the Daily Mail, this sinkhole about an hour’s drive south of Muscat along the coast is a burst of turquoise beauty in the middle of an otherwise arid region. Especially on the weekend, it’s a destination for locals, expats, and tourists alike, jumping off into the deep well that for me was reminiscent of a Mexican cenote. Like other nearby bodies of water, the fish that eat the dead skin off your feet are here as well, so you can treat yourself to a natural pedicure even if you don’t join in the swimming. It’s also a popular spot for a picnic and even has visitor facilities.

Eat Omani Food (this will not be easy!)

One of the more surprising things about visiting Oman was how challenging it was to find Omani food. Omanis typically eat at home, and like some of its Middle Eastern neighbors, Oman has a lot of workers from other countries that seek out their home cuisine. Which means that it is easier to find Indian or Lebanese dishes than ones native to the area. That said, Oman has been at the crossroads of trading routes for quite a long time, so the cuisine is comprised of a mix of influences, including some Omani versions of curry. One of the most typical Omani things I ate were halwa, a date-based sweet spread often flavored with rosewater. Also typical was shuwa, a dish made from meat that has been spiced, wrapped in banana leaves, and buried with hot ashes underground to cook for 24 hours.

Enjoy Omani Coffee and Dates (this will be a breeze)

A key component of Omani hospitality, coffee and dates are often the complimentary dessert served at the end of the meal, or the snack available at all hours at your accommodation. Omani coffee is a very aromatic, spiced concoction and will likely not taste anything like the coffee you typically consume, so approach it as an entirely new beverage. And the dates of Oman are incredible – I ate the best dates of my life on this trip.

Traditional Boat Tour in the Musandam Peninsula

The Musandam peninsula is by the Strait of Hormuz close to Iran, and while still part of Oman, it is geographically separate from the rest of the country, with the United Arab Emirates located in between. Musandam is accessible by flying or by car transfer from Dubai, with the town of Khasab as the traditional departure point for the boat tours. Musandam is comprised of stunning fjord-like inlets, and of course the traditional dhow boat tour is an excellent way to explore the beauty of this area. There are many tour providers, all of which will follow a similar itinerary, stopping at several points in the area, providing snorkel equipment to explore the crystal-clear water, and providing traditional Omani meals and refreshments on board. And in all likelihood the dolphins will come out to play at several points during the day, putting on quite the show.

Oman really was such an incredible vacation destination for a week, and one country I was so glad to visit with my sister. We did encounter some solo travelers, but I find that road trips are always more fun with a buddy, and in this case was strategic with the adventure of navigating. There were so many beautiful sights (and plenty of camels) that we saw along the way, this list just scratches the surface of what you’ll find in Oman.

Which attraction interests you the most? Anything you’d still want to read about Oman in a future post to help plan a visit? Or something you think should have been included on this list of top things to do? Let me know in the Comments!

Like this post? ‘Pin It’ on Pinterest for later!

Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London

March 23, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

The town of Bath, an easy train ride from London, lived up to and far exceeded my mental picture of what it would be like to spend a few days in a quaint British town. Trying to coordinate visiting two different friends in London this past fall (and seeing an NFL game in London in the process!) I ended up with two packed weekends and no plans in between. Which didn’t seem like the worst outcome to me, especially since the value of the pound had fallen quite a bit by then following the Brexit vote. So it just became a matter of how I would spend the days in between.

I’ve been to London a number of times, but have never really ventured much outside of the city (other than visiting Stonehenge back in 2007). After polling a bunch of British friends, the most frequent suggestion I received was to go to the town of Bath. The site of the only natural hot springs in the United Kingdom, if the town was good enough to be beloved by the Roman Empire, surely I could find a few things to do over a couple of days in town. Plus, although I didn’t realize this before making my plans, the entire town of Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the end, Bath really wowed me, and I felt like I had a variety of interesting things to do, time to relax, and ate some really great food along the way. Bath is also a popular family destination, and my time there was quite crowded as it coincided with a school holiday week (who knew that ‘half-term’ was a cause for vacation?). So if I fell in love with the town on a busy week, just imagine how much you’ll love it when you go.

Things to Do

Around Town

Bath Abbey

Located in the town’s central pedestrian area, the Abbey is not to be missed. The interior is filled with high arches and colors streaming in through the stained glass windows, but even more intriguing is the Tower Tour that will take you to the hidden stairwells, the bell ringing chamber, and onto the roof for excellent views in all directions.

Jane Austen House

Although I did not visit, I’m including the Jane Austen House on my list because it is one of Bath’s most popular attractions. Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years, and while she supposedly did not like it, she did end up setting two of her novels in Bath – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. The house has period furnishings and tells of Jane’s time in Bath.

The Roman Baths

Once the Romans discovered the natural thermal springs of Bath, they did the only logical thing – they built a spa! Not to be confused with the modern spa (see below), this is the incredibly well-preserved historical site. It’s a huge complex that will take a couple of hours to fully explore, as you progress through the temple and various treatment rooms of ancient times. The audioguide is excellent, and offers different perspectives, including some commentary by one of the funniest authors I’ve ever read, Bill Bryson. Be sure to take a (small) taste of the thermal spring water at the end before you leave.

Thermae Bath Spa

With pools fed by the natural hot springs, this is a world-class spa to have a relaxing several hours during your stay in Bath. There are steam rooms with different calming aromas, pools of different temperatures and with jets to soothe sore muscles, and a hot pool on the roof with an expansive view of town. In addition to the several hours of lounging in the different pools that was included in my package, I also had an excellent massage here.

TIP! If you will be in Bath on a weekend or during school holidays, book ahead of time to ensure that you can get in to the spa.

TIP! As long as no masseuses call in sick, additional slots may open up in the morning for the same day. Call the reservation line first thing in the morning if you haven’t been able to reserve in advance.

TIP! There are a lot of good package deals including massages, especially mid-week. If you’re not sure which one to choose, I’d definitely recommend either talking through the options and their relative prices with someone over the phone or in person at the spa before you reserve.

Off the Beaten Path

The Holburne Museum

This is one of my favorite museums of all time! I’m not always a museum person, but I’m so glad I strolled a bit out of the center to arrive here. The main collection is free, and has so much character and a wealth of interesting items that Sir William Holburne collected during his lifetime. I didn’t have nearly enough time, so I’d recommend coming early enough in the day that you have the time to be leisurely.

TIP! Open all of the drawers in the main collection, as some of the most interesting tidbits and interactive displays were inside.

Prior Park Landscape Garden

I didn’t make it to this National Trust site as it’s a bit outside of the city and I ran out of time, but it looks absolutely beautiful from the pictures I’ve seen, especially of the Palladian Bridge located there. I’d say it’s worth the time going from town on public transit, which looks pretty straightforward, and certainly is a place to pop into if you have a car.

Royal Crescent

The Royal Crescent is a quite lengthy curved section of connected houses, which is distinctive-looking both for its curvature and sheer size. The math geek in me can’t help but point out that it is semi-elliptical, not semi-circular. The entire Royal Crescent was built in the late 1700s, and the house that stands at No. 1 Royal Crescent is actually a museum you can visit, with period furnishings.

Royal Victoria Park

If you’ve spent a bit of time exploring in town, this park that is a relatively easy walk from the center and is a great spot to get a dose of greenery and stroll in nature. I spent a bit of time wandering one of my mornings, and it was a great way to have a relaxing start to my day. It is also notable for being the first park named after the 11-year old (not-yet-Queen) Victoria.

Best Bites

Boston Tea Party

A cute, centrally-located cafe where I enjoyed breakfast one of my mornings, there is an array of coffee, tea, pastries, and breakfast dishes to choose from. I enjoyed their sweetcorn hash, with haloumi, poached eggs, and avocado. A great savory way to energize for a busy day of sightseeing.

The Bridge Coffee Shop

On the way from town to the Holburne Museum (see above), this coffee shop serves up great hot beverages, although the big draw is the lovely view of the river. Even if the tables on the river side of the shop are taken when you arrive, keep an eye out for departing guests so you can relocate to take in the scenery as you sip.

Chaiwalla Indian Street Food

Right in the heart of town, the vegetarian Indian food served here at super-reasonable prices will satisfy your hunger. The friendly owner/chef can help you decide between the excellent options, or just keep an eye on the dishes prepared to order ahead of you for a sense of which flavorful and delicious option you’d like to order. Conveniently, there are several benches across the street to enjoy your takeaway meal.

Olé Tapas

Oh my goodness, you must come here for dinner! Recommended to me by a friend who lives in London, it’s a really great Spanish tapas spot that was quite crowded when I went. Fortunately as a solo traveler I didn’t have to wait long before being able to snag a seat at the bar, but if you’re in a party larger than one, you probably want to reserve a table in advance as the space is small. The tapas are excellent, the staff is friendly, and anything you order off their special gin cocktail menu (ask for it if needed) will be crafted with incredible care and wow you with its unique flavor combinations.

Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum

Located in one of the oldest houses in Bath, you’re likely to encounter a line out the door to dine in for one of Bath’s specialty buns. Fortunately, if you’re not interested in dining in, you can bypass the line to visit the display area downstairs with some history of the house and the bun, as well as purchase a freshly-baked Sally Lunn bun. The bun has a crust around the outside, is like an airy brioche inside, and comes in one size only that is as big as your head!

The Scallop Shell

Come here for the same reason as everybody else – their award-winning fish & chips. The fish is quite fresh, and unlike some other spots, you get a choice of the type of fish to be fried up with your chips. You can also get your dishes to take away, which can be an appealing option when the restaurant is busy and the line is long.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Bath was a great place to spend a few days, and certainly one of the things that stands out for me was how easy transportation was both to get to Bath and once you arrived. And the town is definitely set up for visitors, with user-friendly pedestrian maps posted in several spots around town. There are plenty of coffee shops around as well, with proper espresso-based drinks as well as the tea options you’d expect in England.

TIP! The buses within Bath are cheap and easy to use, so if you’re traveling a long distance or are simply tired of walking, take advantage. My guesthouse was a bit far from the train station, so I also took a bus when I was arriving and departing with my luggage.

TIP! Bath is a popular family destination, so it will be significantly more crowded during school holidays. Check for the dates of local holidays so you can book accordingly.

TIP! Although the timing wasn’t right during my visit, there are quite a few live theatre performances that take place in Bath. You can peruse the options here. There are also lots of restaurants with pre-theatre meal specials.

Have you been to Bath? What were the highlights for you? Or do you have a different favorite trip for a few days outside of London? Share in the ‘Comments’ below!

Like this post? ‘Pin It’ for later on Pinterest!

Visiting the Site of the Largest Unsolved Art Heist: Boston’s Gardner Museum

March 16, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

This Saturday marks the 27^th anniversary of the largest unsolved art heist, which took place on March 18, 1990 at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston, Massachusetts. I can’t help but be swept up in a great story, and the details behind this art theft smack of any literary thriller that’s ever consumed you. That’s in fact how I first learned about it – from reading one of the many books that has been published in the nearly three decades since the theft.

The Heist

The art heist at the Gardner is unusual in several respects. Of the 13 works of art that were stolen, they were not all the most valuable pieces of art at the museum, although their cumulative value tops $500 million. It is even questionable what kind of art expertise the thieves possessed, as some of the paintings were carelessly slashed from their frames. The haul is also a mix – some famous paintings (including Rembrandt’s only seascape), sketches by Degas, and even the eagle from the top of a flagpole. The Gardner Museum has a page on its website with the details of the theft for the perennially curious, including a list of all of the missing artwork and even a virtual tour. And who to contact if you have any tips 😉

What made the heist so successful? For one, the thieves posed as police officers, under the guise of replying to a previous call at the museum, a clever way to establish authority. Is is that the security guards on duty did not follow protocol? The men posing as officers were allowed entry to the secure area, and then were able to lure both guards away from their post and the only alarm button. The guards were restrained, and the theft was only first discovered when the morning security guards arrived to start their shift, giving the thieves ample time to make their escape.

In the years since the theft, detectives believe they have come close to the artwork, with rumors leading them to many places from Philadelphia to Miami to Corsica, a French island in the Mediterranean. Not a single piece of art has been recovered yet, which is unusual for a heist of this size and also for the amount of time that has elapsed since the artwork went missing. The reward leading to the stolen works has been increased over time and now stands at $5 million, although it’s unclear whether investigators are actually any closer than before to solving this mystery as the next anniversary looms.

The Museum

Visiting the Gardner Museum was not my reason for visiting Boston, but was an outing I just could not resist. And while admittedly the art heist was the impetus for going to the museum, there was a world of wonder and whimsy I discovered there that make the museum worth a visit, regardless of whether the artwork is recovered someday.

Isabella Stewart Gardner was a bit of an eccentric heiress who founded the museum after her husband’s death in the late 1800s. One insight into her playful personality is the structure for discounted or free admission to the museum that persists to this day. There are of course some of the typical discounts, for students and teachers and museum pass holders.

So what are some of the less typical ways to get discounted or free admission?

If you’re named Isabella, there is lifetime free admission (once you register on their site here).
Admission is free on your birthday.
There is a discount for wearing paraphernalia of the local baseball team, the Boston Red Sox.

Unfortunately I didn’t qualify for any of these (and I’m a lifelong New York Yankees fan, division rivals of the Red Sox), but if you’re named Isabella or it happens to be your birthday, you’re in luck!

In any case, once you have a ticket in hand you proceed to the courtyard, an incredible space that really sets the tone for the rest of the museum. It feels like you’ve stepped into the interior of a European villa, with the columns, greenery, and large central mosaic. Almost everyone, including me, stopped in their tracks to take in this peaceful space. Some stayed and lingered on the bench surrounding the garden space, while others popped in and out of the surrounding rooms, returning for a few moments to appreciate the garden in between. As you enter the museum rooms, all of which are clustered around the central courtyard, the view outside morphs ever so slightly, especially on the higher floors. And for me, as I entered each new space, my eye was initially drawn in the direction of the courtyard, observing the new perspective and angle of the sunlight. This experience was certainly part of the museum’s design, and provides continuity and a sense of space throughout.

Isabella also had a clear vision for how she wanted the art to be displayed for the public inside the rooms, from the floor coverings to the ceiling to the furniture to the artwork. She took a holistic view on the curation of the pieces and how they were displayed in the various rooms and levels of the museum. When you enter each space, it has a distinct feel. Some are crowded, while others are sparse. Some are dark-paneled and regal, while others have sunlight streaming in and have a light, airy, open feel about them.

Isabella Stewart Gardner collected much of the art during her international travels, hence the European feel of many of the spaces. The building housing the museum was commissioned to be in the style of a famous Venetian palazzo – the style of buildings typical along the Grand Canal of Venice, Italy. Isabella even hand-arranged the Spanish tiles in one of the open-air spaces off the courtyard, and her direct hand in the museum is apparent throughout. She saved her correspondence with famous artists and composers of the day, and there’s even a case featuring letters from some of the first American presidents that she acquired over the years. In fact, Gardner was so particular that the permanent exhibition cannot be significantly altered, a provision that has made the aftermath of the heist particularly visible because no other artwork can be put in place of the pieces that were stolen.

Another highlight of the museum for me was the temporary exhibit currently on display until September called Listen Hear: The Art of Sound. Since the permanent exhibit can’t really be changed per Isabella Stewart Gardner’s explicit wishes, including special exhibits is a wonderful way to enhance the art already on display and be able to interact with it in new ways. Some of the sound exhibits are meant to align with the artwork in certain rooms, or to represent specific pieces that were stolen, like Vermeer’s The Concert. In the courtyard, one of the exhibits emits sounds meant to imitate the insects that are absent from the garden, providing the background noise that is normally missing. In another ground floor space is an intricate series of small sculpted glass orbs, some of which have been filled with different colored liquids, from tea to olive oil. Embedded in the sculpture are sensors, and as you walk underneath the sculpture or wave your hand nearby, cascading sounds are emitted. I was a bit mesmerized by this one, and spent quite a bit of time staring and playing.

You can’t help but have fun visiting the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, and from everything I’ve learned about the woman, that is exactly what Isabella always hoped for.

Have you visited the Gardner Museum? What part of the experience stands out for you?