Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

January 16, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I can’t stop talking about where to eat in Stavanger, Norway.

How did a city I had never heard of before become the surprise foodie destination of my last two-week European trip?

By far, it was the city that excited me the most for its food and drink offerings. And as I ate and drank my way through, Stavanger, it delivered.

It’s a pretty simple story, really.

Stavanger was a small town through the 1960s when the oil boom hit, and has since grown into one of Norway’s most sophisticated dining scenes, with no shortage of oil executives and business travelers eating lavish meals on their expense accounts – supporting excellent restaurants all around town.

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2018

Now Stavanger is Norway’s third-largest city and was the first outside of Oslo to have one of its restaurants awarded a Michelin star. Since then, a second restaurant has earned the same accolade.

With Stavanger’s proximity to the Lysefjord’s beautiful scenery and famous hikes, it’s likely to be a pass through point for any outdoor adventuring you do in Norway.

Like many other travelers to this region, I passed through Stavanger both coming and going.

The Stavanger dining scene isn’t just serving up great food and drinks, there is some exciting innovation with local and seasonal ingredients that made it a unique experience, not just your standard “good food.” All with a Norwegian twist, of course.

It’s a city I’d go back to, just to eat.

When you do go, here is where you’ll find your best bites and sips:

Top Coffee Shops

Bøker og Børst

Meaning “books and booze” (since it also operates as a bar) this spot is filled with quirky and fun décor that makes you feel instantly cozy the moment you walk in the door.

The staff was also super friendly, and served up my favorite coffee in all of Stavanger – and I sampled a lot more than made this list.

Plus, the ultra-moist slice of decadent carrot cake was a great way to treat myself after a cold, rainy morning on the ferry ride back from the Lysefjord.

Kokko Kaffebar

This spot is actually just around the corner from the previous coffee shop, but has a very different vibe that is light and airy.

There is beautiful décor across multiple levels and bright, open seating. Kokko Kaffebar also serves up great coffee, with a very smooth flavor. Although I did not enjoy my food quite as much, since I found their baked goods to be a bit dry and not as flavorful as other spot.

Where to Eat in Stavanger

26 North

It is not usually my style to eat at a hotel restaurant – especially one that is a Norwegian chain – but this one is really delicious and it was worth being out of my comfort zone to sample the cuisine here.

26 North offers local “farm & fjord” options daily (an option each from the land and the sea) and what is overall a locally-inspired menu.

There is an appetizer sampler, which is a great way to try traditional Norwegian dishes, especially if you are dining solo like I was.

Even a dish that sounded pretty standard, like the steak I ordered, was both cooked and seasoned incredibly well, and I slowly savored each bite.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

Egget

I knew from the moment I read about the concept of this restaurant that it was my kind of spot and the experience lived up to my expectation – it was my favorite experience in Stavanger and the best food I ate in all of Norway.

There is no menu, just a talented young chef putting together food based on what is available that day in delicious small courses. Like Uri Buri restaurant in Israel, the server will keep bringing additional courses until you stay “stop.”

And they were all so absolutely delicious:

BBQ crab with cashew cream, celeriac root, grated horseradish, grilled broccolini and mustard, and grilled oat milk bread
Grilled hake with apple cream from the chef’s dad’s garden, kaffir lime zest, and fennel leaves
Grilled fish with perfectly crispy skin and a spicy, rich, deeply flavored shrimp bouillon I couldn’t get enough of
Crispy-skin lamb with blistered carrots and pumpkin seeds
Cheese course

Of course, you can tell them any dietary restrictions at the start, and the dishes will be tailored to you as needed (and don’t worry, the staff and chef speak excellent English).

There is also a comprehensive wine selection, that you can enjoy without the pressure of buying an entire bottle, with the server/sommelier guiding you in wine pairings for that day’s courses.

Egget was a great solo dining destination, with a counter overlooking the open kitchen where you can sit and watch the details of how each dish is prepared and if you’re lucky like I was, make friends with fellow diners.

Also, the price was so reasonable for what I got!

The total bill came out to 1,020 NOK (105 Euros/US$120), with about one quarter of the price for my wine pairings and the remaining three-quarters covering the four courses plus cheese plate.

Fisketorget

Located right on the water’s edge, Fisketorget is part fish market (its literal translation) and part restaurant serving up local fish and seafood specialties.

For me, this was Norwegian comfort food in a beautiful locale, with plenty of beer and wine options to pair with your food.

While looking out over the nearby inlet, I enjoyed a giant bowl of Norwegian specialty fiskesuppe for lunch, a hearty fish soup which had delicious flavors and lots of different type of seafood – the perfect cozy indulgence to warm me up on a chilly day.

Renaa Matbaren

Although I did not make it to Stavanger’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, RE-NAA, I had a fabulous meal at the slightly less formal version, known as Renaa Matbaren.

Food in Norway tends to be on the pricey side, but if you come for lunch here, there is a great “lunch box” deal with a set starter and dessert, along with a choice of three main dishes.

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First, the food is outstanding, with great combinations of cooking techniques to yield delicious flavor and texture combinations that you’ll want to savor for each bite. There is also a great wine list, with many options by the glass to pair with your food.

But the piece of my experience at Renaa Matbaren that put it over the top was the exceptional service.

Although I was dressed for the ferry ride I would take shortly after my meal, I was treated like a queen when I dined there, without any assumptions being made based on my appearance, which was just a wee bit casual:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In addition to this more casual version and the original Michelin-starred RE-NAA, there is also an Xpress RE-NAA bakery and artisan pizzeria.

Where to Drink in Stavanger

Pjolter & Punsj

You know it’s a great cocktail spot when you come for one post-dinner drink and end up staying for three.

Plus, you make half a dozen friends along the way.

First off, let me say that the cocktails are incredible. Mixing drinks behind the bar is award-winning mixologist Truls Thomsen, who was also fun to chat with (plus, he lived in both the US and Perth, Australia, just like me!).

Many of the cocktail ingredients are in-house concoctions that take several days to prepare, and it shows when you taste the delicious result. Which is why this is where the servers from the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant choose to drink at the end of their shift.

There are also a lot of local spirits and sensibility woven into the cocktail menu here.

Each drink on the menu is displayed along with a different sardine tin, an homage to the now defunct canning industry in Stavanger.

Flavor combinations are locally and historically inspired, with aquavit (a local spirit) as a prominent ingredient in the cocktails.

Which isn’t hard to do because the bar boasts the largest aquavit collection in the region.

This spot could easily thrive in London or New York or Bangkok – but instead you get to enjoy it in Stavanger.

Places to Check Out Next Time

Lervig Aktiebryggeri

Craft beer has exploded in Norway in recent years. Lervig is Stavanger’s local brewery, with its beers widely available at restaurants and bars around town.

You can also visit the brewery itself, with lots of information on the English website linked above, including how to book a tour.

RE-NAA

This is Stavanger’s 1^st Michelin-starred restaurant and also the older sibling to Renaa Matbaren, where I enjoyed the fabulous three-course lunch mentioned above.

After having tasted the chef’s creations, I’d definitely splurge on a meal at this spot on a return trip to Stavanger. It is 1,600 NOK for the 20-22 course tasting menu (165 Euros/US$190) and then another 1,400 NOK (so almost as much!) for the wine pairings.

Start saving your Norwegian kronor now!

Sabi Omakase

One year after RE-NAA earned a Michelin star in 2016, this spot joined it with one of its own.

A sushi omakase experience limited to 10 diners per seating, Sabi Omakase runs about the same price as RE-NAA, at 1495 NOK per person for food and offering wine pairing at the same price, which is approximately 150 Euros/US$175 for each.

Yes, so now you might have just a bit of an idea why I ate so well in Stavanger during my visit.

It was a big reason I loved Norway, and why I’m now recommending it as a top travel destination to anyone who will listen.

READ MORE: Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Whenever I return to Norway, I’m eager to spend even more time eating my way through the city.

Any other top spots I should check out when I return to Stavanger? What has been your favorite city for eating? Any city that surprised you with its foodie scene?

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Travel Superlatives 2018

December 19, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Wow, 2018 turned out to be quite the travel whirlwind – filled with many travel highlights, good and bad!

Last year, I explored 2 new countries. This year I made it to 5: Denmark, Honduras, Malta, Nicaragua, and Norway.

Not that I’m so into the whole country counting thing, but I keep track every so often and realized with my recent cruise stop in Honduras, I’ve now been to 59 countries!

This year, with some strategic planning around holidays and generous leave at my full-time job, I also managed several longer trips, many of them returning to some favorite countries and cities I’ve visited before – like Belgium, Italy (where I lived for 3 years!), New Orleans, Philadelphia, and San Francisco.

Across my many trips, there were those moments that stood out for being blissful, with the stars seemingly aligning just right. There were many visually beautiful moments, meandering on a road trip through picturesque scenery or hiking through breathtaking nature. And also hilariously terrible moments when everything seemed to go incredibly wrong and I tried to recover as best I could – or at least wallow in misery and live to travel another day.

Here are some of those memorable travel experiences:

A Multitude of Travel Fails

Sure, I’m Travel Savvy Gal, but how do you think I got so savvy? By doing things wrong, of course! Sometimes repeatedly.

And with all of my travel this year, even with all the things I did do right, it inevitably didn’t *all* go according to plan.

There were the little things that I kicked myself for – not paying attention to my direction and ending up on the sunny side of the bus or train, picking the one seat without a power outlet, or somehow finding the seat with a bar underneath and no space to stow bags.

But my most panicked moment came near the start of my first two-week trip to Europe. And I hadn’t even left the US yet!

After going through security, I was sitting at the bar at one of the airport restaurants and dropped my phone. Which of course I had done dozens of time before, but this was the drop that broke my cell phone for good. But it was so close to boarding time that all I could do was take my flight completely phone-less. On top of which, I had forgotten to set an out-of-office message on my work e-mail and couldn’t complete the authentication to log in without a working cell phone! (Luckily when I arrived in Milan, where I have a lot of friends from my 3 years living there, I was able to borrow a friend’s spare smartphone for the trip – phew!)

Then somehow that carelessness was like a curse that extended through the entire trip. As that two-week European adventure in April progressed, I just was not at my best for staying on top of all my belongings.

In Belgium, after a day of exploring when I first arrived, I took a train to Antwerp to reunite with my best friend from my time in Milan, and completely walked off the train without my main luggage that I had stowed on the shelf above the seats. Luckily, Antwerp was the final stop of the train, so when I realized I had left it behind a minute later, the train was still in the station with its doors open and I was able to walk back on and fetch it.

Then, at the last destination that same trip, on my final day in Copenhagen, I lost my Copenhagen Card – which was basically my pre-paid admission to all of the local attractions and my card to access public transit. So for things like the Carlsburg Brewery tour, I had to pay again to enter. Luckily, it was only about a $20 mistake in the end, but it literally cost me.

New Food Obsession

I don’t get obsessed with a new food every time I visit a new country (I swear!) but my Copenhagen obsession started long before I landed, just by reading a description of local delicacy, smørrebrød. Sure, it’s just an open-faced sandwich – Danish-style – but there is a whole lot more that goes into the perfect bite after perfect bite that I enjoyed there.

It is color, it is texture, it is flavor. All mixed together with the Danish design sensibility that extends to many area of life in Denmark. Plus, it’s incredibly delicious. So yeah, I admit it, I’m totally obsessed.

Luckiest Budget Moment

My first big trip of 2018 was a week in Nicaragua. I was meant to visit with a friend but she had an emergency (don’t worry, everything is fine now!) and had to back out last minute. I briefly debated whether to still go, although let’s be real, being on my own has not dissuaded me from a trip yet. It just meant that it would be a slightly different trip without her company and that I needed to make some adjustments to my plan to account for not splitting expenses two ways anymore.

My biggest in-country transit was between the island of Ometepe and the town of León, and certainly the budget way to traverse the distance was by bus. Although I had taken the converted school buses known as chicken buses on other stretches, on this journey it would have involved going into the capital city of Managua, transferring buses, and leaving again on a different bus.

With the buses stopping frequently, the trip would have taken all day.

I decided that even though I was traveling solo, I would splurge on a private car transfer to the ferry and then from the ferry on the other side, to minimize how much of the day I’d lose in transit.

My lucky moment came when I approached the reception desk at my guesthouse, and I happened to ask about the trip just as a couple was making the exact same inquiry. We even were targeting the same departure time.

So instead of footing the bill alone, I got to split the ride – 3 ways!

And of course, in true travel fashion, it turned out that there was a lot to connect me and the random couple – from hearing about their home in Denver, where my sister had recently moved, to conversing in Hebrew because she turned out to be Israeli. The driver even got in on the lively conversation along the way, with me translating since I was the only person in the group who spoke Spanish.

READ MORE: Top 13 Reasons to Visit Nicaragua

**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists. Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

Craziest Hiking Conditions

I like to hike. Usually with a friend, and often sandwiched in between two city sightseeing days to get some time in nature. Occasionally, I hike solo. I’ve done some serious hiking on my own, but the last time was back in 2016 on a solo weekend in Liechtenstein.

Only because I am a semi-serious hiker, had done multiple 6+ hour hikes on my own before, and had trained before the trip, did I even attempt to hike high up in a Norwegian fjord while solo in late September. Which is basically the beginning of their winter.

Despite the cold, there were a lot of fun elements of the hike, however the final section was so brutal that all four people who started out ahead of me turned back before reaching the end. At that point, I was literally alone. In the middle of nowhere. With no cell service.

At the top, with a third of the hike still remaining, the wind was merciless and there were large patches of black ice, where the rock had iced over but you couldn’t tell if it was wet or icy until you extended a tentative step. Plus, the fog had rolled in and there was barely enough visibility to see from one bright red trail marker to the next.

But I am nothing if not persistent, so while continuing to be cautious, I slowly made my way toward the famous wedged boulder known as Kjerag. As its slightly rounded top was covered in a layer of ice and show, standing on it was not possible, but seeing the spot in view was still so incredibly rewarding.

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Most Drinks Consumed

This one might be a tie. Between a cocktail crawl, giant boozy slushies, a distillery visit, and wine tasting in New Orleans (let the good times roll!) and also California wine country, where a friend and I road-tripped with just two winery reservations and still managed to squeeze in tastings at 12 wineries in basically 2 days.

In both cases, a lot of different venues were involved, and getting to sample all of the delicious concoctions was also incredibly tied to the sense of place in each location.

Travel Research Fails

While in Belgium during my April trip, my main concern when picking when to take a day trip to Ghent, Belgium from my home base in Antwerp was centered in part on the weather and in part on my friend’s schedule. And I didn’t know any better, so didn’t do my due diligence until I was en route and realized just how many museums and restaurants would be closed since it was Wednesday. Which seemed awfully random but now I know and you should, too – so it featured in my blog post with tips for visiting Belgium.

READ MORE: 9 Top Belgium Travel Tips

In Philadelphia in the US, I thought I had done my due diligence when I found a spot with great cocktail reviews close to where I’d be exploring on Saturday afternoon of my weekend trip. After trying and failing to find this amazing bar, some closer looking led me to realize that it was a cocktail school, not a bar where I could order drinks! (Luckily, some alternate options were also nearby, and I enjoyed a great pre-dinner cocktail.)

Most Unexpected Outing

I had briefly been to a secluded beach in the north of Haiti on a cruise with my family over a decade ago. This past February, I returned to a completely different part of the country on a work trip, splitting my time between the capital of Port-au-Prince and the northern Artibonite region. As you might imagine about a country with many travel warnings in place, security is key and was my main focus there.

What was completely unexpected was the cosmopolitan and – thanks to the many aid organizations and non-profits – thriving expat scene in Port-au-Prince. The one Friday night I spent there, I went salsa dancing! Read all about how salsa dancing in P-au-P was different than I expected in the caption below:

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Best Sunsets Enjoyed

I’m not much of a morning person, so I’m far more likely to catch sunset than sunrise (other than in winter, like this recent gem spotted on my way to work). After a year of traveling, a few of these stellar sunsets stand out more than most:

I saw several great sunsets in Malta, but the one that stands out the most was spotted toward the end of a whirlwind day I later called my perfect sightseeing day. After many buses, city exploring, a wine tasting, and some coastal hiking, I swam and took in the views as I swelled with the satisfaction of a wonderful, full day of solo exploring and enjoyed the lovely colors as the sun set over the water.

As someone who loves water views, I also took *so many* pictures of sunset on my Caribbean cruise. I still think my favorite views though, were on the first night as the ship left port in Miami just as the sun was going down:

READ MORE: Top Tips for Taking a Cruise

On vacation, watching sunset it usually an item on my itinerary, while at home, I often get caught up doing something without remembering to glance outside. I almost missed this boldly colored one while at home in Baltimore, but then I just happened to look out the window and see how stunning and bright this one was. Luckily I have a rooftop deck and was able to rush up there with both my phone and camera to appreciate its beauty. Plus, snap a few shots, of course.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj7Ix-0H3XU/

Most Unexpected Foodie City

You’re probably expecting me to list some famous city that you have heard of or been to, but may not have realized has a foodie scene.

Well, here goes: Stavanger, Norway. No, doesn’t ring a bell?

Honestly, I had never heard of Stavanger either until I realized that it was the most convenient jumping off point for all of the hiking I wanted to do in the nearby Norwegian fjord. But critical to its foodie scene is the fact that Stavanger is also an oil city and has plenty of high-paid executives that frequently dine out for business and sustain some fancy and delicious places all around town.

Norway’s first Michelin star awarded outside of Oslo was to a Stavanger restaurant back in 2016 (now there are more). And I enjoyed some of my most memorable meals of the year there.

Most Last-Minute Flight Purchase for Vacation

I thought it was cutting things close when I lived in Milan and didn’t buy a ticket for a weekend trip to London until the Wednesday before a Friday afternoon flight. For the first time in my life, when I scanned my boarding pass at the gate, it beeped.

Because I had been tagged as a high security risk.

“Did you by any chance by your ticket in the last 48 hours?”

Why yes, yes I did. After breathing a sigh of relief as they confirmed the likely reason for my being flagged, the flight attendant fortunately had no problem letting me on the flight.

This year, I topped that moment.

I had planned months ahead for my Norway trip, securing a one-way evening flight to Bergen (via Stockholm) on Norwegian Air. Early afternoon the day before my flight, I started getting a series of text notifications about problems with the airplane.

Twenty texts and two hour-long phone calls later, it became apparent that my original flight would be canceled. And I’d be delayed at least one day – if not more – due to the connection I’d then miss.

So I did what any frequent traveler would do – right? I started a whole flurry of activity.

I checked with travel insurance to see what extra costs would be covered. Then I called Norwegian Air on different numbers simultaneously (one on my cell, one on Skype) to get a hold of a person as fast as possible to refund the original flight.

AND then, once my confirmation e-mail came through, I bought a completely new one-way plane ticket to Bergen on a different airline.

By the time this all got sorted out, it was so close to 24 hours before my flight departed the next day that my purchase confirmation and check-in reminder came within 10 minutes of each other!

(And just for the record, Norwegian Air’s Customer Service is excellent – My request took a month to process, but not only did they refund the cost of my original flight, they also paid me for the $300 fare difference for the last-minute flight I booked. So I never did have to make that claim with my travel insurance.)

Biggest Travel Win

A Romanian friend who has been living and working in the US quit her job to return to Europe and wanted to go on a girls’ road trip to San Francisco and nearby wine country in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. So she called me, obviously! (No arm twisting required.)

We booked flights to California three weeks in advance. As is my usual, I booked the flight, told my friend, then added us to the wait list for all 3 of the nights we’d be in wine country for the most outrageous restaurant in the region, The French Laundry. Which is considered one of the hardest reservations to get in the US (even if you book months ahead of time).

I didn’t think much of this, and had pretty much forgotten all about it by the time we started our trip.

After all, I had joined a wait list for Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy and for Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark when I visited both areas in April of this year – and didn’t hear from either restaurant. But of course you can’t get in off the wait list if you don’t even try.

So imagine my surprise when I got a call from a California number I didn’t recognize as we were wine tasting up and down the Napa Valley on Sunday afternoon.

The French Laundry has a spot for us? What?!?!??

YES, of course we want to come for dinner on Monday at the French Laundry. Most people make a dinner reservation at The French Laundry, and only *then* book a plane ticket to California. Which was the only way I thought I’d ever be able to go. Then here they were offering me a spot! (Although of course also asking me to pre-pay the $700 for two on my credit card online within the hour at a moment’s notice.)

No problem, sign us up!

In the wake of the flurry of activity securing the reservation, I felt like pinching myself to see if it was all really happening.

I’m still in such disbelief that the website confirmation of my reservation is still open in the browser on my phone 2 weeks later:

After the call and confirming our seats, my friend and I were finally grabbing some lunch in between wine tastings and just looked at each other – did that really just happen??

Those ‘pinch me, is this real?’ moments are what makes me love the travel experience and continue coming back for more. More new experiences, more elation, more crazy disappointment that sometimes is so ridiculous that it borders on the hilarious.

You need the travel blunders to appreciate the wins. Without the lows, you can’t fully appreciate the glorious highs when everything goes right. It may sound counter-intuitive, but it’s true, I promise.

I just try to be present in the moment and savor it all as it comes, grateful to be here and able to experience it all.

For more highlights from recent years, check out my previous Travel Superlatives round up posts:

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2017

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2016

What were the highlights of your travel year? And what was the craziest thing that happened to you on the road? Any place that I mentioned you’d like to see more blog posts about?