Bucket List Adventure: Volcano Boarding in Nicaragua

April 5, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists (as of December 2018). Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

“Lana?”

“Oh, hi dad.”

“Hi sweetie, I just wanted to call and make sure you were still alive. You know, because you said you were going to go volcano boarding in Nicaragua.”

“Yes, dad I’m fine.”

(That is pretty much our conversation verbatim after I got back. And my dad doesn’t even worry usually when I travel!)

Not only was I fine after my day volcano boarding in Nicaragua, this activity was one of the absolute highlights of my whole trip.

Yes, I knew I wanted to do this before I even went.

Yes, I knew that it was a possibly dangerous activity and to go you pretty much had to certify saying you had travel insurance before they’d sign you up. You know, just in case.

Yes, I was super excited to go anyway!

What is Volcano Boarding?

If you’ve never heard of volcano boarding, you may have all sorts of crazy images flowing through your mind right now.

First off, in order to board down the volcano, you have to reach the top. On Cerro Negro (black hill), where volcano boarding is in Nicaragua, it was about a 45-minute moderate hike to the summit. Then there was a bit of time to walk around, explore, and take photos before lining up to wait your turn to descend.

And of course anything you need at the top, including the board itself, was part of your pack as you climbed.

What goes up, must volcano board down. Maybe you’re picturing standing on a surfboard and headed down a volcano as the lava comes up behind you. Or someone flinging themselves face first like in the beloved winter sport known as skeleton. In reality though, volcano boarding in Nicaragua is somewhere between sledding and luge as you slide down the side of the volcano.

There is a rectangular board that you sit on to go down the side of the volcano feet-first. A rope handle comes up from the bottom of the board between your feet and a slippery surface mounted on part of the bottom of the board helps you glide over the gravelly side of the volcano.

After the 45-minute hike up, it’s about 2-3 minutes to volcano board down.

I know – who on earth thought up this crazy activity???

How did Volcano Boarding start anyway?

Volcano boarding overall basically started as an extreme form of snowboarding down an active volcano spewing lava back in 2002 in the Vanuatu islands. Around the same time, a mountain biker realized that he could achieve high speeds and set land records over gravel, and that the black volcanic gravel of Cerro Negro in Nicaragua was perfectly suited to the task.

A few speed records later, the mountain biker was in a full body cast and a whole bunch of people in Nicaragua were inspired to find a way down the side of this volcano. People used to carry mattresses or any other object they could think of to use as a surface for going down, but over time the object of choice has evolved into a wooden board with a built in handle and slippery formica bottom.

Unlike the Mount Yasur volcano in Vanuatu – which actively spews hot lava that has killed people – the Cerro Negro in Nicaragua is actively hot, but has not erupted since 1999, making it a draw for volcano boarding tourists ever since the sport’s inception. Standing at over 2,300 feet (700+ meters), it is also twice the height to travel down compared to Vanuatu, making for a longer trip volcano boarding down.

Although extreme sports enthusiasts will go volcano boarding anywhere they can, the only place in the world where it’s organized as a regular tourist activity is at Cerro Negro in Nicaragua. The tour runs pretty much every day, as long as there’s a minimum of two people to go (usually there are far more).

How to Volcano Board

Some people supposedly stand up on the board to try and snowboard down the side of the volcano (although I didn’t see any of the ~100 people there the day I went try this), but the most standard way to descend on the volcano board at Cerro Negro is to sit down, lean back and enjoy the ride.

The guide will demonstrate the proper position for descending – basically sit on the wooden bar and grab the rope – and then you can lean back to go faster or sit up to create more wind resistance that will slow you down. The heels of your feet are in the gravel on either side of the board and you push them downward as your brakes.

Everything you hiked up with is in a tote bag inside of your jumpsuit for safekeeping until you reach the bottom.

Simple enough, right?

What the Volcano Boarding Was Like

I had a blast! There was that rush of hiking to the top while taking in the beautiful views and then a bit of fear at the top taking the first look over the edge where volcano boarding takes place. Mine was actually in one of the first groups to the top, so at that point you were just gazing down the steep incline in anticipation, not actually seeing what it looked like as people did it yet.

As my heart raced in my chest and I felt the effects of the adrenaline coursing through my body, I tried to take deep breaths and mentally run through the different steps of the process as everyone lines up along the lanes spread a bit apart so boarders don’t collide. I wasn’t first in line, so I watched carefully the take off maneuver to pick up speed at the beginning and was mentally comparing how each person approached it.

I noticed the line of people dwindling ahead of me and got ready to perch myself on the board. The wooden bar is pretty little, so I took a second to adjust how I was sitting and perch my feet ready to take off. When the signal came that the coast was clear I had a moment to take one last breath before taking off.

At first, hurtling down the side of the volcano, my mind was racing. Noticing how it all felt, feeling the air rush by, making slight adjustments in my position to stay balanced.

Then my focus shifted to trying to go faster. I had lost some of the initial momentum getting caught up in the decently sized chunks of black volcanic gravel and shifted my body position to leaning far back and lifting my feet to minimize friction and pick up speed.

The second half of my run was even faster and I still mostly stayed balanced as I sped to the bottom and came to a slow stop and quickly jumped up and out of the way for the next person coming down the volcano.

It was such a rush to go volcano boarding, and the whole time it felt so surreal to be able to do such a cool activity. On an active volcano, no less!

Choosing a Volcano Boarding Tour

There are two main tour operators that will take you volcano boarding from the town of León, Nicaragua – Bigfoot Hostels and Quetzaltrekkers. Volcano boarding with either costs around US$30.

From the research I did in advance, there were a few key differences that led me to choose Quetzaltrekkers:

They let you volcano board twice!
They are a non-profit supporting local charities in Nicaragua.
Bigfoot tracks everyone’s speed down the volcano with a radar gun.

I didn’t want to feel the pressure to go faster than I thought was safe or found comfortable, or to be in an environment that focused on speed (and I definitely wanted to go twice). So between not wanting to go with Bigfoot Hostels for that reason and actively choosing to support local charities, Quetzaltrekkers was the right choice for me. If you go volcano boarding, choose the tour operator that works best for you.

Bigfoot Hostels and Quetzaltrekkers were definitely not the only tour providers. I saw plenty of signs advertising volcano boarding around the city of León, where most are based. However, for doing an extreme sport, I opt to go for a very experienced provider. It is my safety after all.

Who can go

There was a lot of diversity in the fairly large group the day I went. Many people were backpackers in their 20s or 30s, but there was also one family with two 8-12 year old children, a backpacker with his mother probably in her 50s, and several older couples who liked travel and adventure.

So basically, travel boarding is for nearly everyone!

What will be provided

Obviously this varies from tour operator to tour operator, so be sure to double-check that you have the correct information when you book volcano boarding. What is listed here is for the Quetzaltrekkers tour I went on.

The guide that will lead the way up the path to the top of Cerro Negro, explain a bit about the volcano range, and also demonstrate the proper technique and safety measures for volcano boarding down. My group was large so there was someone signaling at the top when it was time for the next person to descend and another guide partway down the volcano taking photos of everyone, which was later shared via their Facebook page.

In addition to a trained guide and a photo to make all your friends jealous, Quetzaltrekkers will provide for you:

a volcano board
a tote bag/backpack to hold any items you need on the way
1 large bottle of water
a jumpsuit
gloves
goggles
lunch afterward
a free t-shirt as a souvenir

What You Need to Bring Volcano Boarding

Honestly, you’re hiking up with a bit of extra weight from the supplies and the board itself, so there’s probably not much else you’ll want to bring with you.

The essentials:

A bandana (or t-shirt) to cover your nose and mouth as you go down. There is a ton of dust and gravel that gets kicked up that you want protection from.
Wear decent closed-toed shoes, since the shoes you wear are your brakes coming down.
Phone/Camera/GoPro or whatever device you want to use to record the experience.

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Is Volcano Boarding Safe?

I found volcano boarding in Nicaragua to be safer than it looks (or sounds). First, you control your own speed by your body position and braking with your feet, so your safety is essentially up to you. Which is basically what the tour disclaimer statements say, too.

Going down the side of the volcano, there are essentially multiple lanes down, which have been worn already and keep you on a path for the most part. You’re unlikely to veer or the path, and even more unlikely to collide with another boarder as you descend.

Between deliberately going slow or encountering friction on the way down, most people were not going terribly fast. The worst I saw was someone falling slightly sideways off the board, and then being able to immediately get back on and continue the rest of the way down. And the bottom of the volcano slowly levels off, so there is a natural arc that will slowly bring each volcano boarder to an eventual stop at the end of the run.

That said, for the occasional person who even begins to approach the top recorded speed of 97 km/hour (60 mph), there is definitely the possibility of more serious injury, which is not to be taken lightly.

But if you follow the safety guidelines, I would expect that volcano boarding is no more dangerous than other sports you’ve tried anywhere else.

What Wasn’t Scary

The volcano boarding itself. It was actually hard to go fast! Even with the bottom sanded smooth, there is quite a lot of friction between the board and the gravel. Plus your feet were in the gravel as well. Since you control your speed by sitting up to slow down (and can brake anytime you want with your feet) you won’t go any faster than you’re comfortable with.

Being on an active volcano. Toting a volcano board is actually one of the safest ways to hike an active volcano. If anything goes wrong, you are already hiking with the fastest way to get to the bottom of the volcano and away to safety – sliding down on the volcano board!

What Was Scary

How windy the hike was. Pretty much every account I’ve read of volcano boarding in Nicaragua mentions how windy it is. And nearly every video you watch of volcano boarding has the wind whistling in the background (mine included – see above).

When you get to the top and are traversing the ridge to get to the volcano boarding area, the giant volcano board you’re carrying often catches the wind like a sail and the gusts can be so strong you’re really digging your feet into the gravel with your leg muscles to not get blown away.

At this point, some people started to carry their boards vertically in their hands to not catch the wind – it really felt strong enough to blow you off the top of the volcano. Not to worry though, we all made it there safely.

Standing at the top looking over the edge. I didn’t start skiing until my late 20s and I still get a bit of fear in me when I glance over the edge of a steep ski slope. Standing at the top of the volcano boarding area looking down was the same sort of feeling for me. Then I realized I’d be sitting down and it all seemed way more approachable. Plus, it’s those butterflies inside that tell me I’m on an adventure =)

Why the Hike Alone Was Worth It

If someone had said, “hey, there’s a beautiful hike up an active volcano with lovely views,” I would have said “yes” in a heartbeat. The fact that this scenic hike just happens to be the way up to the volcano boarding area was a bonus for me.

There are plenty of volcanoes in a row to explore (this is on the volcano ‘Ring of Fire’ after all), and hiking up Cerro Negro you get a view of much of the nearby volcano range. In fact, some people who arrived with me and the Quetzaltrekkers group were beginning an extended trek and overnight stay in the area. The El Hoyo 2-day trek is on option to book along with your volcano boarding, or you can always opt just for the hike and overnight trip without volcano boarding if you wish.

The hike up Cerro Negro itself fell somewhere in easy to moderate difficulty. The only struggle for me besides the wind (see ‘What Was Scary’ above) was that it was not so comfortable hiking with the board between the backpack and your back. Plus, mine kept sliding off-balance and needing to be readjusted. (Although really, a small inconvenience for the fun of volcano boarding.)

And despite my visits to many volcanoes during my time in Nicaragua – including several other active ones – the hike up Cerro Negro was the only part of my volcano exploring in Nicaragua when I got to touch the hot sand and feel the warmth of the volcano coming up through the ground.

The initial hike up actually took a bit of time because the views were so incredible that we all kept stopping to take pictures and video. I would have done the hike even if there wasn’t the option to volcano board down, although that was definitely a great excuse to see this part of the volcano range.

Would I Go Again?

I already did! One of the reasons I chose to do the tour with Quetzaltrekkers was for the opportunity to do it all a second time that same day.

As far as I know, they are the only provider to offer that option, so if you’re thinking about going twice, be sure to book with them. Apparently my experience the day I went is similar to every day when the run the tour – most people say they will go a second time, and then almost no one does!

In my group of ~40 people, only 8 of us (6 men, plus me and 1 other woman) opted to go a second time. I think most people didn’t want to do the hike again to arrive at the top.

Since there were just a few of us going again, we were able to swap out our jumpsuits (mine was very large for my first run) and also to switch boards to one of the lesser damaged ones. I didn’t realize how mangled the board gets going down just once.

→ Because the boards all get damaged the first trip down the volcano, it turns out to be a lot harder to go fast on the second run!

I thought I was being clever to try and go moderately fast the first run and really let loose with my speed the second time once I got the hang of it, but I should have just thrown caution to the wind at the beginning when my board was fresh. If you do opt to go a second time, any experience you’ve gained will probably be outweighed by the degradation of the board you’re using. But it’s still fun.

The second trip overall is definitely quicker than the first round of volcano boarding, though. The hike actually takes less time since there is less picture-taking on the way. The slowest hikers in the group typically don’t opt to go up again. And there are much fewer people.

I was glad I went. And went again.

Would you ever go volcano boarding? Anything you’d still like to know after reading this post? What’s the craziest activity you’ve ever done in your travels? (Let me know, I might have to do it next.) Share away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Note: This post was not sponsored in any way. I just had a great time volcano boarding with Quetzaltrekkers and was happy to put my money toward a good cause and do my tour with them for the reasons above. My opinions, as always, are entirely my own.

What It’s Like to Attend an NFL Game in London

October 25, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

The American National Football League (NFL) has been playing games in London for nearly a decade. As a huge football fan, I have been tracking which teams and dates have been selected since moving to Italy in the fall of 2013, and was very excited a year ago when the New York Giants – my home team – was selected to play one of the games this season.

The NFL games in London are not like international competitions or exhibitions, when one country’s national team plays another. Both of the teams involved are American, playing on British soil an ocean away. When I purchased my ticket for Sunday’s game, I really did not know what to expect.

Who would attend? Would there be a lot of American expats living in Europe, like me? Americans who flew over for the weekend to go to the game? A lot of British people? Would there be other Giants fans there?

I didn’t have a clue about the answers to any of my questions ahead of time, other than some intel from an American friend living in London that people would wear any NFL jersey they owned, regardless of whether that particular team was playing. Having brunch the morning of the game in central London I passed two people, each wearing the jersey of a different NFL team. I wondered, might they also be attending the game?

So, what was it like? On my way to Twickenham Stadium on London’s outskirts for the game, I took in the full experience, both for the things that were so familiar to me from other American sporting events (NFL games included) and those that were just a bit different.

Catching the Reading train line from Waterloo Station to Twickenham was the first time I saw fellow NFL fans en masse. There were a lot of other fans in NY Giants jerseys, so I was able to find the correct train platform easily just by following the crowd. I even ended up sitting in a section of the train that had other New Yorkers, although they had flown in just for the weekend. I was lucky to have found a seat, as all of the standing areas became packed with people as the train got closer and closer to Twickenham.

Upon leaving the train, the rainbow of different NFL team jerseys became apparent as most of the train’s occupants streamed onto the platform and formed a giant mass of people carried forward toward the station’s exits. There was basically one main road that led to the stadium, and as I walked with the pace of the crowd, the sight was a familiar one.

First, the NFL team jerseys. I haven’t bought new NY Giants attire in a while, so I was actually wearing the jersey of the previous player at #27, Brandon Jacobs – and I wasn’t the only one. While the New York jerseys I saw were mostly those of current popular Giants players (Eli Manning, Odell Beckham Jr. & Victor Cruz), there were actually quite a few older team jerseys being worn: those of Michael Strahan, Jeremy Shockey, Tiki Barber, & Lawrence Taylor to name a few.

Also, many of the houses and restaurants that lined the way to the stadium had food stands set up next to the sidewalk, with the smell of grilled meat and onions wafting up and tempting many of the people to pause for a snack and a beer. Options even extended into various ethnic options, from African to Asian to Latin American. Basically any street food you could imagine.

The official area surrounding the stadium was quite familiar as well, with more food stands, even some with Krispy Kreme donuts. And one of the beers on tap at the stadium was Budweiser, which I’m guessing is not standard fare at Twickenham for rugby games (although I’m honestly not sure).

When I arrived at my seat, I noticed quite a few Giants jerseys, and thought there might be a sizeable representation of Americans. I was wrong. While I did encounter plenty of Americans, the crowd was overwhelmingly British, which became apparent right before the game. For the national anthem, first Nicole Scherzinger sang the American one, with everyone standing at polite attention. Then, as the first few notes of the British national anthem started, an overwhelming number of people in the crowd starting belting out “God Save the Queen.” Yup, very British crowd.

And most of that British crowd was cheering for the Los Angeles Rams. As soon as the Rams players started taking the field, all of the free LA Rams flags that had been distributed came out and blanketed the stadium with the flapping noise of fierce flag-waving echoing throughout. Not only were the Rams the “home team” for this game, but they were actually slated for a while to play in London over three consecutive years. This was starting in 2012 when they were still the St. Louis Rams. Although the team backed out after their first year, some locals definitely adopted the Rams as their own.

There were plenty of New York Giants fans, too. Nowhere near as loud as the British booing at points, but as the Giants tied up the game and took the lead, decently loud chants of “LET’S GO GI- ANTS” clap, clap, clap-clap-clap would start and make it through a few cycles before dying out. Basically, you could hear the Giants fans when the Rams fans were relatively quiet, but it was still nice to know the others were there =)

The British fans are still learning the NFL rules. American football is different enough from the familiar similar local sports in the UK, like rugby and soccer, that there still is some confusion about the rules. The local commentators went out of their way to accentuate their booming voices for each Rams first down and play celebratory stadium music, even more so than you would expect at an NFL game in the States. And the video monitors had a lot of text explaining some of the game basics, like time outs.

And the game was great! (and not *just* because my team won) There were a lot of possession changes and dramatic plays, so this matchup actually turned out to be a great one for spurring interest in a mostly foreign crowd. While the Rams had some quick scoring and led 10-0 for a while, the Giants managed to tie it up before halftime. The 3^rd quarter was scoreless, and then after a second NY Giants touchdown and some key interceptions, they held a 17-10 lead until the end.

The undisputed ‘play of the game’ was the first-half interception by Landon Collins of the NY Giants, that resulted in a huge run for a touchdown. He seemed to magically dodge Rams players attempting to tackle him as he jumped and spun, traversing the field, and doing what seemed like a magical leap at the very end to cross the threshold into the endzone. The elaborate footwork by defender Collins rivaled any offensive player that day, and was incredibly memorable. Check out the video here.

Is London getting an NFL team? For now, I don’t think so. The NFL has been progressively negotiating both for stadium access. NFL games in London have been played previously at Wembley Stadium, and the Giants game I attended was the first of several that will be played at Twickenham. From the British people in attendance who I chatted with, games have high attendance because of the novelty, so far not more than 3 games a season. It is unclear both with the time difference to the US and the British interest level whether a full season for a single team could be sustained.

TIPS! for Attending an NFL Game in London

From Twickenham Stadium, walk to the Whitton train station to head back toward central London. It is equally close to the stadium, but before the Twickenham stop on the Reading line so I was able to get a seat easily.
Beer cups are reusable and involve a £1 deposit, but if you’re like me, you just want the cups as souvenirs. I discovered that at least at Twickenham, different levels of the stadium use cups with different designs. If you’d like to collect some different ones, either spread out your beer purchasing, or spot someone with a cup you’d like at the line at the beer vendor at the end of the game for people who want their deposit back – you’ll either be able to trade cups or buy them out.
Want to avoid long lines for refreshments or at the bathroom? The British still don’t know American football rules super-well – see above – so the pause for the “2-minute warning” (toward the end of the 2^nd or 4^th quarter) is a good time to go. I would start making my way to the entryway to the inside area with bathrooms when it seemed like it would be one more play before the pause, around 2:10 or so, and you’ll be back before the game starts up again.

And moving forward for the NFL International Series? Well, there is still 1 more NFL game to be played in London this season, this upcoming Sunday also at Twickenham Stadium between the Cincinnati Bengals & Washington Redskins. And another first for the International Series comes this November, with the 1^st game played outside of London – a Monday Night Football match-up between the Oakland Raiders & Houston Texans, which will take place in Mexico City!

Since the NFL is trying to build interest and fans outside of the US for American football, although there are travelling costs involved, tickets to the game itself can be more affordable, plus you get a weekend away. Click to find out about the latest games on the NFL International schedule.

Would you fly to another country to see an American football game? Anything else about attending an NFL game in London that you’re still curious about? Leave a message in the Comments, I’ll reply personally to each one.

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Travel Savvy Gal

Making the Most of Your Time Away

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