Travel Savvy Gal

After my first year living in Italy, I realized that I had already been to 3 different truffle festivals in 3 different regions: Alba, Acqualagna, and Norcia. Okay, so I really enjoy truffles and was very fortunate to have the opportunity to visit so many festivals dedicated to them. But I was also surprised to realize how many weeks (or at least weekends) these festivals last, and how many seasons boast truffle festivals, giving you several opportunities to plan a visit.

Part of that has to do with the fact that there are many varietals of truffle, even beyond the designations of white and black. The “precious” white truffle is principally found in Alba and Acqualagna, while the black truffle comes in many varieties, most commonly the black summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) and black winter truffle (Tuber melanosporum). I only mention the scientific names here because this is how you will sometimes see truffles listed on a menu to distinguish between the different varieties. In any case, the many different varieties of truffle mean that they are harvested at different times of year in different regions of Italy, so even if you’re planning a winter visit, getting fresh truffles is a possibility if you plan your itinerary with truffle areas in mind.

Alba (Piedmont region)

early October – late November, held over 8 weekends

The “Fiera del Tartufo” in Alba (west of Milan) is probably the most famous, and is the truffle festival where you will encounter the most foreigners and hear the most English being spoken. It is also many visitors’ first Italian destination for a truffle festival due to its location in the region of Piedmont, known for many of its excellent wine varietals – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, and Moscato d’Asti, to name a few – as well as for the outstanding restaurants in the region. The main vendors are located inside a building with paid entry that can get quite crowded and hard to walk through as the day progresses.

TIP! Although they sell a wine-tasting option with your admission, there are many wine vendors throughout where you can taste for free, so unless you want to taste a lot of top-shelf options from wineries not present, stick to the basic admission price.

Acqualagna (Le Marche region)

late October – early November, held over 3 weekends

Much less well-known, although the white truffle found in this coastal region east of Tuscany is (scientifically) identical to the more famous white truffle of Alba. The region of Le Marche is also one of the regions less visited by foreign tourists, so you will encounter far more locals and hear a lot more Italian being spoken here. There is an indoor component to Acqualagna, but many stands located outside in the piazzas and streets of the town, so I found it to be more spread out and less crowded in any one area.

Norcia (Umbria region)

late February – early March, held over 2 weekends

Called Nero Norcia, or “black Norcia,” the truffle festival in Norcia is different from the other two I’ve mentioned because it is dedicated to a black truffle instead of the white one. While the white one is more expensive and delicate (and rare), the black truffle can be a more versatile culinary ingredient for its ability to maintain its aroma with exposure to heat, like being tossed with butter and fresh pasta. And since this is a relatively short festival in the midst of winter, it’s a very different (bundled-up) experience wandering the outside stalls and tasting as you go.

TIP! For all of the truffle festivals above, there are many products that you can buy from charcuterie to cheese to bottles of wine to all of the truffle-centric products. Bring along a backpack or cart of some sort to help carry all of your purchases.

And certainly the three truffle festivals I’ve personally attended don’t even scratch the surface of what you can find around Italy. Above is a map indicating all of the locales in Italy that are known for truffles. Seemingly everywhere! I really had no idea until living here, and scratching the surface of this wonderful fungus.

Wherever you decide to go, here are my top tips to make the most of your Italian Truffle Festival experience:

Plan, plan, plan.

If you are visiting a town or the surrounding region when the local truffle festival is taking place, you will be there along with the locals and other tourists who are all trying to make the most of the weekend. Accommodations, winery tours, and restaurant reservations can fill up fast, so if there are specific places you want to experience, it’s worth the effort to plan in advance.

Drive.

Many truffle festivals are accessible by Italy’s excellent train system, however there are so many perks to arriving by car. Not only does it give you the flexibility of any time you take a road trip, but there are a lot of nearby towns, wineries, and restaurants most easily reached in a vehicle. Prepare to drive around Italy with my Tips for Road Tripping in Europe.

Stay overnight in a town nearby, but not the one actually hosting the truffle festival. Or on the outskirts of town.

With all of the vendors and visitors for the truffle festival itself, the host town can become quite chaotic, especially in the center of town. Plus, many streets will be blocked off so travel by car can be difficult and confusing. I find that it’s best to stay on the outskirts of town where it’s not to far to arrive at the festival by foot, or to stay in a nearby town, giving you another area to explore in the region.

Attend during carnival time or special cultural performances.

Although the festival is already a special weekend experience, there is typically a schedule of special events that take place throughout from Alba’s famous donkey race to evening carnivals to cultural performances in period costume. Even if you don’t plan ahead you may stumble upon one of the special events, but these performances are also worth seeking out as you plan your trip.

Take advantage of weekdays before and after festival if you can.

Like with Oktoberfest and other festivals around Europe, weekends are the most crowded time as the locals come to enjoy the festivities outside of the work week. To have a less-crowded experience at wineries and restaurants nearby, plan some of your time in the region to be during weekdays.

Taste first, then buy truffle products.

Yes, truffles are an amazing product, however not all truffle products are created equal. Although truffle spreads make all look the same at the different vendors, you really need to taste them all to see which one best suits your particular taste (and only buy from vendors that give you the opportunity to sample their products). My favorite truffle products to seek out: a black truffle and mushroom spread usually called tartufotto and semi-soft cheeses with shaved pieces of truffle inside.

Buy a truffle!

There are many great ways to eat a fresh truffle, so be sure to have access to a kitchen either at the festival, or in the day or two after. And it is worth investing in a truffle shaver, as even the most intricate knife-work is not quite the same as the thin, even slices of truffle you can get with the proper tool. Truffle shavings are great with scrambled eggs, fresh pasta, and over mountain cheese roasted in the oven.

Taste and buy wine.

Okay, you’re attending a truffle festival, but there will be no shortage of wine for tasting and buying. And since you’re already planning a home-cooked meal to accompany the fresh truffle you purchased, buy some regional wine to accompany it. Wine also makes a great souvenir and if it’s just a few bottles, can be easily transported home in your luggage.

Eat at the food stands on site.

All truffle festivals have food stands on site with many truffle-enhanced dishes to sample. They often come in relatively small portions, so it’s fun and delicious to try plates from many different vendors as you explore the festival.

Go on a truffle hunt.

Going on a truffle hunt had been on my bucket list ever since I lived in Perth, since Western Australia is also known for its truffles. While I didn’t make it during my time there, I did get to experience a truffle hunt one year attending the Alba truffle festival with friends. Not only did I learn a lot about truffles, it was fun trekking through the woods with the truffle-hunting dog, and lovely to sit down and have truffle enhanced dishes at the end of the hunt.

Have you been to an Italian truffle festival? Or one in another country? What was the highlight of your experience?

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