Naples Archives - Travel Savvy Gal

6 Books to Inspire Travel in 2017

January 2, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

In case you haven’t already figured it out – I’m an avid reader. I especially like to read books set in countries where I’m living and traveling, and sometimes books I’ve selected for other reasons end up inspiring me to visit the places where they’re set.

To kick off the new year, here are my pics for the top books to inspire travel, and get you excited for your next adventure:

Crazy Rich Asians
by Kevin Kwan

I started this book right before my trip to Singapore at the end of last year, and was so hooked that I immediately read Kwan’s follow-up novel (the third book of the trilogy is expected to be released in May 2017). A bit of a guilty pleasure or beach read kind of book, there is also a great sense of what it’s like in Singapore. Although many of the characters come from very well-to-do families, there are a lot of drool-worthy descriptions of Singaporean food and the street hawkers that make eating in this tiny island nature such an adventure – you’ll want to eat your way through Singapore, too.

Down Under / In a Sunburned Country
by Bill Bryson

After reading one of Bryson’s most popular books, A Short History of Nearly Everything, I was hooked on his sense of humor and how craftily he uses levity to present facts in a memorable way. When I moved to Australia in 2012, Bryson’s book on his travels in Australia (titled differently depending on where in the world you live) was the first book I read upon my arrival. Not only are his descriptions absolutely hilarious, they are also spot on in portraying this island nation and continent. And although it was over a year later that I finally had the chance to visit some of the parts of Australia that Bryson describes, his imagery is so vivid that I still clearly remembered his passages and how exactly they corresponded to the reality on the ground. One of my all-time top books to inspire travel!

The Great Railway Bazaar
by Paul Theroux

This book chronicles the author’s trip by train from London across Asia and back. I read it during my trip to Sri Lanka a year ago – for the small part of the book that is set there – and ended up completely engrossed start to finish. Descriptions cover human nature and the train journey itself, as well as the various destinations on the train journey. For places like Vietnam where I’ve traveled before, I smiled knowingly as I read the passages, and for the countries I haven’t visited, I got a unique view of the culture through Theroux’s descriptions. Covering so much ground, surely one of the stops on this train journey will pique your interest. And in the meantime, the book will keep you highly entertained.

My Brilliant Friend: Neapolitan Novels, Book One
by Elena Ferrante

Naples is not always a destination for visitors to Italy, but this first book of Ferrante’s four-part series about two friends shows why it should be. The sometimes harsh reality of the city living in the shadow of a volcano also means that there is a vivacity to Naples – and southern Italy in general – that is just not quite the same up north. It is also a great window into the mentality of a southern Italian, and how challenging it can be to break the mold of where you were raised. Not only will you want to go to Naples, you’ll have a much better understanding of the city when you do. It’s one of those books to inspire travel you might not have expected, but will land you in an incredible destination!

Wild
by Cheryl Strayed

Raw and honest, the descriptions in this book are so vivid that I was quite surprised to find out that it had been written many years after the journey took place. In the wake of personal problems, Strayed decides to hike the Pacific Coast Trail solo. Not only was this book inspirational for me as a frequent solo female traveler, but it also illustrates how time spent outdoors can be transformative. If it’s been awhile since you’ve trekked through nature, you’ll want to get back out there after this read.

Yes Man
by Danny Wallace

Although there are some specific travel destinations that come up in this book, I took the most from its central idea – that people these days say “no” quite a bit, whether to an invitation to go out for drinks after work or a proposition for a far-flung vacation. And you open yourself up to so much more adventure and unexpected experiences by simply saying “yes” more. There will always be reasons not to take that next trip or embark on a new adventure, but you gain so much more by going anyway. I doubt most people will go to the extremes that Wallace did, but the underlying reminder is a strong one.

What would you pick as the top books to inspire travel? Which one has affected you most?

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Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

February 23, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Impressions

Naples is considered the birthplace of pizza, however the Neapolitan pizza tradition is just scratching the surface of what the city has to offer. Many people pass by Naples on their Italy travels, or stay for just a few hours when transiting, but there is such a special personality of the city that warrants a longer stay. You can read more about my impressions of Naples and all of the crazy experiences I’ve had that represent some of the spirit there in a previous post here.

Sights in Naples range from the subterranean tunnel system to opulent churches with incredible art collections and castles with incredible vistas of the harbor. The intensity and bustle of the city is matched by the variety and flavor of the many local culinary specialties, and a few days or a weekend is needed even just to eat your way through Naples, let alone appreciate all its beauty. Keep scrolling for all of the things you’ll want to spend your time doing, and where to eat some incredible food along the way.

Things to Do

Amazing art

Archaelogical Museum

Pompeii is of course worth a visit all on its own, however the Archaeological museum in Naples itself is where a lot of the art from Pompeii is displayed. It’s an incredible collection well worth the time to explore (I spent several hours).

Pio Monte della Misericordia

I went inside on a whim one of the many times I was walking along Via dei Tribunali, one of the central streets close to many churches and restaurants. Although it is a church, there is a fairly large collection of impressive artwork and objects, including Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy.

Sansevero Chapel Museum

The highlight of this museum-chapel is the tomb monument known as ‘the veiled Christ.’ Like all transcendent art, you see it once, and then anywhere else you are in the room, your eyes keep getting drawn back to appreciate its beauty.

Other churches of note

Duomo

The word Duomo means cathedral in Italian, making it a top sight in most Italian cities. The Duomo in Naples is no exception, and it especially notable for the Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro, a museum of well-adorned art treasures connected to the cathedral.

Church of Gesù Nuovo

This is a very different looking church from the others you’ll see in Naples, especially from the outside with its dark stone facade, starkly contrasting with the golden colors of its interior. It’s a popular place for locals to attend service on Sundays, so plan your visit accordingly.

Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore

Pretty much in the exact historic center, the inside is not as opulent as some of the other churches, but this Basilica boasts extensive history, including the remnants of an ancient Roman market underneath.

Around town

Napoli Sottoranea (Naples Underground)

This is a tunnel tour well worth your time, exploring the tunnel system under the city. History in the tunnels ranges from use as a water source in ancient times to being used as a shelter during World War II, and even includes the remains of a Roman theater that is concealed by the many homes and apartments it borders.

Spaccanapoli

This street is easily spotted from any vantage point in Naples as the pedestrian walkway that cuts a straight line through the historical center. Mentioned often in Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it is still a bustling street where locals spend their leisure time.

Porta Nolana market

Visiting a market is a must to get a feel for the true chaos of Naples. The Porta Nolana market is mostly known for its fish and seafood, although you can find typical market fare as well.

Lungomare Caracciolo

Lungomare literally means the length of the sea, and is the pedestrian promenade along the Gulf of Naples. You’ll find many locals taking a stroll here in the late afternoon, watching breathtaking sunset views.

Amazing views/Off the beaten path

Capodimonte Museum

There are some famous works of art housed here and I enjoyed my visit, but I appreciated the location even more for its expansive views and the popular park surrounding the museum building.

Castel Nuovo

Close to the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito, this literal “new castle” is quite distinctive-looking and considered a city landmark, and dates from medieval times.

Castle of St. Elmo & Certosa e Museo di San Martino

The castle and nearby former monastery/museum are both accessible on the same hilltop by either metro or funicular from the center (followed by a bit of walking). The views from both are breathtaking, and they are not very crowded – I had some great opportunities to sit and appreciate the view in solitude. Also check out the nearby Friggitoria Vomero (see below) for a quick bite.

Ovo Castle

While the castle itself has irregular hours and I did not get a chance to visit, it is located on a small peninsula jutting out from the mainland not far from the Piazza del Plebiscito. Worth a visit for its lovely views of coastal Naples, especially at sunset.

Piazza del Plebiscito

This piazza, or square, has a very different look and feel from other parts of the city. It is an austere semi-circular open expanse lined by traditional columns and the domed Basilica Reale, or royal basilica.

Best Bites (& Sips)

Coffee

Caffè Mexico

On Piazza Dante, Caffe’ Mexico is considered by many to be the best coffee in Naples. The interior is traditional as is the espresso: deep brown and intense. Local coffee in Naples packs a particularly strong punch, even by Italian standards, and the version at Caffe’ Mexico exemplifies why coffee was its own entry on my list of Top 10 Things to Eat and Drink in Naples.

Il Vero Bar del Professore

Beware imposters, there are a ton of similarly named places in the immediate vicinity of the real (vero) bar where caffè alla nocciola was created, but it is worth seeking out the original spot where espresso was mixed with whipped hazelnut (nocciola) cream. Mmmmm . . .

Pastries

Sfogliatelle Attanasio

Open daily except Monday, take a number to join the queue for the piping hot sfogliatella, a seashell-looking pastry which is served here with the perfect balance of ricotta, citrus, and crispy outside. It is quite close to the central train station, making it an easy stop for visitors (and loads of locals).

Pastisseria Capriccio di Salvatore Capparelli

This spot is my go-to spot for babà on Via dei Tribunali, serving up a light-as-air version of the local rum cake that somehow has still soaked up all the syrupy goodness without being too sweet.

Restaurants

50 Kalò

Neapolitans could probably argue for days over which pizzeria serves the best pizza in Naples. I had a particularly delicious one here, on a recommendation from a friend-of-a-friend who is from Naples. It’s not such a well-kept secret though, learn more about what makes their dough so special here.

Friggitoria Vomero

This friggitoria (a vendor of fried goodies), was a small, authentic spot close to the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. The smell draws you in and then you are presented with many fried options to choose from, although I think the fried polenta and fried zucchini blossoms, fiori di zucca, were my best bites.

La Masardona

Also close to the central train station, this is another popular place that keeps the order of people waiting by taking a number. There are several varieties of fried pizza available, although my favorite bite might have been what was essentially fried macaroni and cheese (technically with bechamel, but same thing really). And best of all, you get to watch them assemble and fry your choices.

Osteria Da Antonio

A charming spot with local specialties done well and friendly service. It’s small, but cozy, and filled with lots of Italians. I dined on my own and it felt like I was being welcomed into someone’s home.

Limoncello

Limonè

Also along the Via dei Tribunali stretch and right by the Naples Underground, this factory makes several lemon-based products, including limoncello, the famous local lemon liqueur, usually imbibed at the end of a hearty meal to aid digestion (literally a digestivo). Unlike souvenir shops, at Limonè you can taste the different varieties of limoncello before you buy. I like both their traditional limoncello and their crema di limone, the cream version.

Have you visited Naples? What were your highlights? Anything I should add to the Cheat Sheet? Let me know in the Comments!

Top 10 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Naples

August 18, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

1. Coffee

Of course, caffe’ simply means espresso, and is excellent all over Italy. So what makes coffee in Naples so special? Like the locals, coffee is surprisingly strong and concentrated. Due to its strength, it is usually served with water from a filtered tap by the bar, which you should drink before the coffee.

2. Nocciola

Although nocciola (hazelnut) is typically grown in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy, this is a coffee drink that was invented in Naples, and involves espresso mixed with a whipped hazelnut cream, a perfect flavor pairing if you ask me. You can get it in a glass, or ‘in cialda’, a cup-shaped wafer lined with chocolate.

3. Taralli

Taralli are circular or oval-shaped breadsticks, sometimes with multiple strands of dough twisted together. The Napoletano variation usually has lard and pepper, sometimes decorated with nuts. They are widely available at passticcierie throughout Naples.

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4. Pizza

Neapolitan pizza is famous all over the world, and a must-eat item for any trip to Naples, no matter how short. Competing claims about first/oldest/best pizzeria abound, and any time you visit you’re likely to be subjected to a long line snaking outside and down the street for the most famous, central places. Every pizza maker has his or her own philosophy about dough and toppings (some places only serve the basic margherita pizza with tomato, mozzarella, and basil), so find a place that appeals to you and dig in – in true Italian fashion, of course, with a fork and knife.

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5. Fried pizza

Yes, this is a different category than your regular pizza pie. While the method is similar, there are usually two different discs of dough, with toppings in between, and then the result is deep-fried until there is a crispy, golden-brown, bubbled crust. The taste sensation is quite different from your usual pizza, but equally delicious.

Friggeteria 20151026_125310

6. Fried food

Aside from fried pizza, there are many fried treats to enjoy around Naples, and you’ll usually smell the delicious aromas as you walk around. Some tempting items you’ll find fried around town include pasta, rice, polenta, eggplant, and zucchini blossoms. There is just something about warm climates and fried food that go so well together, making a meal or snack of fried goodies especially satisfying.

7. Buffalo mozzarella (or any fresh mozzarella)

You’ll see the name as ‘mozzarella di bufala di campania,’ meaning buffalo mozzarella from the region of Italy – Campania – where Naples is located. While a bit more sour than your typical mozzarella, the quality of what you can get locally will eclipse any mozzarella you’ve had before.

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8. Sfogliatella

I don’t typically like desserts with any trace of citrus, but sfogliatella is an a league of its own. It is an enclosed crispy, phyllo-like pastry layered in the shape of a seashell, with a ricotta and orange filling. However, when you bite into a good version, you sense the textural contrast between the crispy outside and smooth inside, with the perfect balance of tart and sweet flooding your taste buds.

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9. Babà

I find the best versions of this rum cake are incredibly light and oozing delicious rum syrup every time you slice it with your fork. I like the regular-size ones the best, for the ratio of the thin outer layer to soft inside, but you can also find babà mignon, the mini version.

10. Limoncello

Southern Italy has an ideal climate for growing lemons, and the abundance around Naples has led to a local digestivo (digestive aid, usually consumed after lunch or dinner). Typically bright yellow in color, the combination of simple syrup, intense lemon flavor, and hard alcohol will help close out any delicious meal in Naples – just enough that you can appreciate your meal without feeling too full.

Naples: Why It’s a Destination

August 16, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“Why do you live in Milan? People are unpleasant there. It is better here, where you can ride your motorcycle without a helmet and drive without a seat belt,” said my first taxi driver in Naples. Who when I paid the 19 Euro fare with a 20 Euro bill, objected to the tip because “that is the price of a coffee.” (I told him to keep the 1 Euro anyway).

This is the chaos of Naples – you can do whatever you want and drive however you like, but then of course you’re driving in a city where everyone else does the same, and you can imagine the crazy traffic that ensues! But it is the excitement of living on the edge at all times that gives Naples its primal energy and bustle, and its very particular charm.

Many visitors to Italy come to Naples, but often spend less than a day hours there, instead using it as a jumping off point to visit the ruins of Pompeii or to head to the island of Capri or nearby Amalfi coast. This is precisely how Naples landed in Lonely Planet’s Secret Europe Destinations 2016 with an article titled “Italy at its red-blooded bargain best,” as a worthy destination where you can appreciate a slice of Italy’s incredible history and art without the crowds you’ll find in some of the more popular Italian cities for tourism. While there has been a surge in interest in Naples as a destination in some crowds after the recent success of Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan series, overall it is more often treated as a transit point than the satisfying and exhilirating city it can be.

Some say the Neapolitan spirit is due to living in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. Experts maintain that the volcano is overdue for an eruption. So as a Neapolitan, with the threat of destruction ever lurking, why wouldn’t you live every day to the fullest?

This fiercely independent attitude of Naples manifests itself in interesting ways when you are a tourist:

Waiting for one of the last trains back to the center on a Sunday night, and despite there being other people on the platform also waiting, being quite aware of the possibility that no train arrives at all (in this case, it did come, over an hour late!)

Trying to pay a 5 Euro museum entry with a 10 Euro bill, and then being let in for free because the attendant couldn’t be bothered to make change.

Walking past mounds of garbage piled up on the streets that haven’t been collected in a while and are starting to overflow onto the sidewalk (mind you, the trash is near the receptacles, just not collected).

Even paid museums almost never having toilet paper in the bathrooms. So great excitement ensues at the one museum with a communal roll outside of the stalls that still has toilet paper on it.

And sometimes you are wandering around museums with priceless pieces of art, and you are completely alone because no one is monitoring the area.

The only rule I saw consistently was “no selfie shaft.” Otherwise, no rules =)

So when my taxi driver bemoaned that Milanesi wear their seat belts and their helmets, I thought to myself that he may find it appalling, but I actually like Milan that way . . . at least as a place to live. But the stark contrast between the cities means that Naples is one of my favorite cities to visit in all of Italy – you’ve never felt more alive!

Travel Savvy Gal

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