How to Spend One Day in Bergamo, Italy

September 26, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Imagine a raised plateau, like one of the mesas of the American southwest or Uluru (formerly Ayer’s Rock) in central Australia. Usually you’ll encounter a formation like this out in nature.

But in northern Italy’s town of Bergamo, there is a large plateau with a UNESCO World Heritage old town perched at the top, surrounded by modern Bergamo, Italy.

It is this division that makes Bergamo unique, split into the historical, raised Città Alta with its meandering pedestrian cobblestone walkways and the lower Città Bassa with a bustling, modern city.

Bergamo is so close to Milan that it houses one of the three airports of the metropolitan area, and is easily reached by car or train in around an hour (more details in the ‘Getting There‘ section below).

The upper city has incredible charm and a quite lengthy history, with all of its attractions close to one another in easy walking distance, making it an ideal destination for a day trip.

Here’s how to make the most of a one-day visit:

Around Town

Don’t be overwhelmed by the number of items listed below as sights to see. Bergamo is a town made for wandering, and the Città Alta is so compact that you can easily stroll between everywhere I’ve listed at a pretty leisurely pace.

Piazza Vecchia

The Piazza Vecchia, or old square, is the central space in Bergamo’s Città Alta, with many of Bergamo’s sights either on the square or nearby. It is a gathering place that is especially lively on weekends, with many visitors and street performers clustered all around.

Palazzo della Ragione

Right on the Piazza, this regional palace served many functions over many centuries, and has exhibitions that rotate seasonally.

My favorite spot is underneath the open archways at street level, where there is a centuries-old sundial, that still marks the passing seasons. At noon daily, the sun will still meet the mark on the ground corresponding to the month and day.

Campanone Civic Tower

If you’ve been reading the blog for a bit, by now you’ve probably picked up on the fact that I both like to climb things and also enjoy an expansive view in a new place.

Ascending this Civic Tower (by elevator or on foot) gives you the highest perspective you’ll get on the already high up Città Alta, getting a sense for the overall layout of the small area and providing some pretty fabulous glimpses of the surrounding countryside.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Just a quick glance at the outside of this stunning Basilica gives an inkling of the treasures that must be contained within its walls. Leave some time to go inside and explore, as you can easily get lost in the many works of art.

Baptistery

There is also the nearby ornate Baptistery, or Battistero, where babies would be baptized before being allowed into the main church.

Originally built inside the Basilica, it has now been relocated and is officially part of the Cathedral.

Duomo (Cathedral)

Pretty much every town in Italy has a main cathedral, and Bergamo is no exception. While beautiful, most visitors find it overshadowed by the Basilica, and will spend more of their time there.

Off the Beaten Path

There is plenty of wandering to be done on foot around the Città Alta, which I recommend leaving time to do. As you stroll, here are two spots of particular interest:

Convent of San Francisco

This ex-convent is a quiet spot away from most tourists with a lovely inner courtyard and a great view over the surrounding Città Bassa down below.

The complex also houses the History Museum of Bergamo, which I didn’t visit, although I loved strolling along the grounds despite my expression in the shot below.

Venetian Walls

What good is having a city on an elevated plateau without some defenses?

For over three centuries Bergamo was part of Venice’s extended empire, hence the aptly named Venetian walls. Yes, the walls are old, but really I love exploring any old city walls – not just for the history they represent, but also for the great views!

Best Bites

Città Alta

Ristorante Trattoria Bernabo

Although there are several higher-end restaurants scattered across Bergamo’s Città Alta, I’m all about down home cooking of the region when it comes to Italian food.

This restaurant not only has wood seating and décor that speak to the city’s history, but delivers basic, humble, and delicious local cuisine to satisfy your hunger and nourish your soul. It’s an especially great spot for lunch, with daily set menus and specials.

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

Although this spot is located right on the Piazza Vecchia, the main square, it hits that perfect balance between intense, pure flavor of the ingredient and creamy texture that I look for in a gelato.

Their fruit flavors are particularly delicious, with very concentrated flavor, and this ranks as one of the favorite gelato spots after three years of living in Italy (and much gelato consumption, trust me).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s also lovely to grab a drink anywhere there is outdoor seating, there are several spots with beautiful views around the Città Alta where you can linger and enjoy.

Città Bassa

Taverna Valtellinese

I once drove from Milan to Bergamo just for a few hours to meet someone for dinner. It seemed like a hassle to go up to the Città Alta just to eat (although that would have been very possible as well), so I found this gem in the Città Bassa, the lower, more modern part of the city.

The cuisine hails from the Valtellina region almost due north of Bergamo, although there are some general items you’d see on any Italian menu as well.

The highlight was the carne al bastone, a two-foot long stick of white ash tree with beef wrapped around it, cooked, and then served on the stick! I think I was so enthralled I completely failed at any picture-taking, but trust me, it’s a sight to be seen – check it out on the left plate in this photo here.

Getting There

Arriving in Bergamo

Orio al Serio Airport

As I mentioned before, one of Milan’s 3 major airports is located in Bergamo, and principally serves low-cost carriers like Ryanair. You can also arrive at Bergamo’s airport by transfer from other Milan-area airports.

From the Bergamo airport, there is a bus transfer that will take you to the center of town, and there are of course taxis as well.

Bus/Train

Other than arriving by bus from the airport (see above), the easiest way from the city of Milan to Bergamo is by train. You can check schedules and fares on the TrenItalia English website.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There are multiple train stations in Milan. Be sure to check which one you’re departing from, although you can search for all options at once on the TrenItalia website by selecting “Milano (tutte le stazioni).”

Driving

Driving was my most frequent method of arriving in Bergamo, which is right off the major east-west highway in norther Italy that runs between Turin and Venice.

There are ample parking lots in the center of Bergamo’s Città Bassa (lower city), with several well-signed garages that you’ll find by a blue sign with the letter P.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Thorough instructions on How to Get to Bergamo by all the methods listed above.

Going up to the Città Alta

All of the ways listed above will get you to the Città Bassa, but if you want to get to the historical Città Alta, there are two main methods of arriving:

Funicular

The funicular, a tram up the steep slope connecting the Città Bassa to the Città Alta, is the main way to arrive for most visitors.

You can check out the timetable at the Funicular link above (it is Funicular C at the bottom of the page), but it runs so often, just go to the station and buy your ticket when you arrive.

Walking

The less-frequented path along a few streets is a bit steep, but worth meandering along for the lovely views along the way.

While facing the funicular station, start ascending to your right and follow the street until it ends and winds around to the left. It’s a little over a kilometer to the city gate, and will probably take around 20 minutes to arrive at the Città Alta entrance:

However you decide to structure (or not structure) your exploring, the town of Bergamo is an incredibly fun day trip with quite unique views as you see and stroll the two levels of the city.

One I liked so much I returned to again and again during my time living in Milan!

Have you been to Bergamo? Any spots you enjoyed that didn’t make my list? Any other questions about making the trip? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Travel Hack: Extra Items You Can Carry On a Plane for FREE

January 24, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 64 comments

As I was standing in line to board my Ryan Air flight back home to Milan from a travel blogging conference in Stockholm two summers ago, I was the vision of chaos.

There was the cardigan and scarf draped over my purse, an umbrella dangling from my wrist, and the bag of food I was holding from the Östermalms Saluhall food hall.

In addition to my purse (‘personal item’ in airline lingo) and my wheeled luggage.

I looked just a little bit different from everyone else in line holding their 2 allowed items and no more.

As everyone looked on in wonder, the flight attendants didn’t bat an eyelash and I boarded with no trouble at all.

No, they weren’t just shirking their jobs, it’s actually the *official policy* of many airlines to let all sorts of additional items on board that don’t count toward your baggage limit.

For those of you who may not know, Ryan Air is a discount European carrier that like most cheap-o airlines, make you pay extra for pretty much everything, including advance seat assignments.

But even with many (although not all) discount carriers, there are plenty of things you can wear or carry outside of the strict measurement limits for luggage when you board.

Extra Stuff You’re Allowed to Carry On

No, really!!

Many airlines even have these items explicitly listed in their official policy if you know where to look on their website.

There are actually a ton of things you can just carry in your hands if you somehow ran out of space in your luggage.

TIP! There are links to some sample policies from around the world toward the bottom of this post.

First of all, don’t squeeze the last ounce of free space out of your baggage on your way *to* somewhere, you’ll need all the wiggle room you can get on the return trip.

Inevitably, even if I don’t buy much along the way, it always seems harder to get everything to fit properly in my luggage when packing it all up on the final night of a trip.

So these tips are really intended for when you have that last item or two you just can’t squeeze in but still want to take back with you.

Here are all of the items that you can wear, hold, or have clipped outside of the allowed luggage dimensions when you board:

Jacket

Even if you’re not cold, even if you’re heading into a tropical heatwave, you can still wear your jacket when you board to free up luggage space.

And there’ll probably even be space in the overhead bin or under your seat if you don’t want to wear it for the entire flight. Or just drape it over your lap – plane rides can get very chilly sometimes.

Clothing Layers

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Sep 19, 2017 at 10:03am PDT

Coming back from my recent trip to Nicaragua, right before I boarded I needed to smush my purse into my backpack so it was a single ‘personal item’ for boarding.

Since the backpack was pretty full already, I wore my cardigan and scarf and tied my fleece jacket around my waist. Instant space creator.

You might not be able to wear all your layers for your security screening, but you sure can wear them to board the plane.

Neck Pillow

Many wheeled bags have a strap you can clip your neck pillow to if you can’t fit it inside.

This is probably the accessory you’ve seen carried separate from luggage most often besides a jacket, and some people even wear it around their neck to board!

Umbrella

I can often wedge this at the bottom of my wheeled back in between the two sides of the handle, but if you’re really strapped for space, it’s not a problem to carry this item separately.

Just put it somewhere on the plane where you’ll remember to bring it with you when you leave.

Camera/Camera Bag

In a pinch, I’ve strapped my bulky camera bag for my ‘fancy camera’ to the outside of my wheeled bag because I just couldn’t get that zipper to close with it inside.

Which is totally fine, because this is also an item that is allowed to be separate from your outer luggage dimension limits.

Hat

When you see someone boarding a place wearing their cowboy hat or wide-brimmed straw hat from the beach, it might not just be a fashion statement.

Wearing it to board can save you precious luggage space if you’re struggling to zip that bag.

Duty Free Purchases

This must be part of some secret backroom deal between airports and airlines.

No matter how bulky or numerous your duty-free items, it’s totally fine to bring them onto the plane with you in addition to your other luggage.

And in some cases, if you purchase alcohol, you won’t even receive your duty-free bag until right as you board.

Merchandise purchased at airport

In many cases, any kind of merchandise purchased at the airport (and especially takeaway food that you’ll probably consume in-flight anyway) don’t count toward your luggage.

Of course, it helps to have this in some sort of obvious container or bag as you board.

TIP! Whether you have the space in your luggage or not, liquids over the 3mL are great items to purchase once you’re through security. On my last trip, both the 500mL water bottle and the 200mL sunscreen I purchased served me well in my travels!

Reading Material

Just hold your book in your hand. There is so much queuing involved with boarding an airplane between getting scanned and making it through the jetbridge, I’m usually holding a book or e-reader in my hand to keep me entertained anyway!

Infant Accessories

I don’t have children, but if you do, there are extra allowances for bringing on board baby supplies, even if the infant will be sitting in your lap the whole time.

These include a car seat, collapsible stroller, and a bag up to 5kg/11 lbs – or more! – with food and diapers (nappies) to cover whatever the baby might need during the flight.

Medical Devices

The interpretation here can be broad, but at a minimum include a cane or crutches, collapsible wheelchair, and any oxygen or dialysis devices you’re dependent on.

All free of charge.

Of course, the exact specifications vary by carrier, and you’ll definitely want to check the specific policy of any airline you’re planning to fly.

Some strict carriers aside (hi EasyJet!), most airlines won’t stop you from boarding while holding any of the above items with you, even if it’s not explicitly mentioned anywhere on their website.

Carry-On Baggage Policies from Around the World

Many policies explicitly will list most, or all of the items above. And some carriers, like Avianca (see below) even allow balloons!

Here are some specific policies from around the world:

North American carrier

Click here for the United Airlines policy
Scroll to bulleted list

South American carrier

Click here for the Avianca Airlines policy
Scroll to “What Can You Take?” then expand “Additional Items”

European carrier

Click here for the Air France policy
Scroll down to yellow border with “Additional Items You May Take on Board…”

Middle Eastern carrier

Click here for the Qatar Airways policy
Expand “Hand baggage allowance” & see box with “Carry more on board”

Asian carrier

Click here for the Malaysia Airlines policy
See #2 and #3

Even if there is no mention in the official boarding policy of the airline you’re flying, so long as it’s not a discount carrier, in all likelihood, no one will stop you with any 3-5 (or even ALL) of the knick knacks listed above whether you’re wearing or holding them or they’re clipped to the outside of your luggage like a neck pillow or camera bag.

I’ve flown dozens of airlines, and never once been stopped with any of the above accessories as I boarded!

Happy flying!!
Lana

Do you usually carry any of the above items outside of your luggage when you board a plane? Any time that you were prevented from bringing one of them on? Anything I missed in terms of carry-on luggage tips? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Milan to Lake Como Day Trip: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como, Italy

May 30, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

When I say the word “lake,” what do you imagine? A small, oval-shaped body of water where you could easily row to the other side in a boat? A modest-sized swimming hole for a quick dip as you hike in the woods?

Your imagination has probably conjured up something relatively tiny, but the lakes of northern Italy – including Lake Como – are anything but.

Instead of your typical circular or oval body of water, Lake Como, Italy is like an upside-down letter Y or wishbone shape, and extends north to south nearly 30 miles/50 kilometers!

This was one of the first of many things that made a deep impression on me when I visited, as one of my first Milan day trips.

Even if you can’t find Lake Como on a map of Italy, you’re likely to know a few things about it.

Like the fact that George Clooney lives there. Or that it is a posh weekend and summer destination for residents of Milan, since getting from Milan to Lake Como is so easy.

This means that in addition to being curious and making several trips on my own, Lake Como was also a popular destination for guests visiting me when I lived in Milan, and I’ve been there many times across several years. It’s one of the easiest and best day trips from Milan. And one day in Como is plenty of time to take in the highlights.

One of the easiest spots to land, and with plenty to see, is the town of Como, Italy at one of the southern tips of this wishbone-shaped lake. With great options for what to do in Lake Como for a day.

The lake itself is huge, which you’ll discover standing on its shores and staring out toward the horizon where the lake continues even past where you can see.

You could easily spend a week exploring its shores, but for most visitors, you’ll probably explore Lake Como in one day.’

Getting from Milan to Lake Como

There are a lot of transportation options for a Milan to Lake Como day trip.

I most often drove to get there, but that was only because I was already living in Milan with a car!

To experience Lake Como in a day, I’ve listed a few driving options, although for most visitors the easiest way to visit will be by train, which is also included below.

From Malpensa Airport (MXP) by Car

Most of my visitors when I lived in Milan, Italy were from the US.

Como is a convenient spot to visit straight from the main international airport, known as Malpensa or code MXP, since it is already partway from the city to Lake Como.

So to fight off jet lag and see something spectacular, one day in Lake Como is a great way to start a trip, especially for flights that land early in the morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! On your first day in a new location, spend a lot of time outside and walking, to help adjust to the new time zone.

However, taxi fares from Malpensa are set prices and quite expensive (around €100!) so unless you are already planning to rent a car at the airport or have a friend picking you up by car, I recommend taking the Malpensa Express train for a much more affordable price into the city.

Then you can either drive or take the train from the city another day for a Lake Como day trip.

From Milan by Car

If you’re planning to rent a car in the city to head somewhere else – like the overnight I did once to go hiking in Lugano, Switzerland – then driving to Lake Como for one day is a great idea.

It is a pretty straightforward path on the highway, and then there are plenty of parking garages when you enter town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Once you are getting close to the town of Como, follow the signs that say Como with a picture of a bulls-eye. The bulls-eye indicates that you are headed to the centro, or center of town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Signage is equally good for locating a parking garage. Look for signs with a blue square with a white letter P inside for parcheggio, or parking. Usually each lot will indicate how many free spaces are available.

Also check out these tips for taking a road trip in Europe for some other helpful information for your journey by car.

If you do not already have plans for a car rental, it is so easy to arrive by train that even owning a car, that is how I traveled to Como for a day during many trips.

Milan to Lake Como Day Trip by Train

There are 3 main train stations in Milan – Cadorna, Centrale, and Garibaldi.

If you plan to do any day trips from Milan, I recommend staying close to one of them, and I find the neighborhoods by Cadorna and Centrale stations to be the nicest.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving on an international flight to Malpensa Airport, Cadorna and Centrale are also the main stations where you can arrive by the Malpensa Express train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Before boarding any train in Italy, be sure to VALIDATE YOUR TICKET before you board, otherwise you could be subject to a fine. Usually on the train platform will be a brightly colored box with a slot in the top for you to insert your ticket. You can find more Italy travel tips HERE.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, Milano Centrale, Milan’s Central Station, is the easiest itinerary. Usually there are several direct trains an hour that will get you to the Como San Giovanni train station at Lake Como in 35-45 minutes. You can check the schedule and prices on the TrenItalia website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni station will typically cost around €5 for the regional train and €12 for the Eurocity train.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Central Station?

Within a 10-minute walk is the exceptional Milano Dreams Hotel. Even closer is highly-rated 43 Station Hotel. For a pricier and very comfortable stay also very close by, I’ve enjoyed the Hilton Milan.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Central Station.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, if you’re staying on the other side of the city closer to the Milano Cadorna Station, it will likely be easier to get a direct train there (and just as fast as a longer transit to Centrale and then the shorter train ride from there).

Usually there is one direct train an hour that will get you to the Como Nord Lago train station right at Lake Como in around 1 hour, so check your train options in advance. You can check the schedule and prices on the Trenord website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Cadorna to Como Nord Lago station will typically cost around €5.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Cadorna Train Station?

Within a 7-minute walk are the outstanding Atellani Apartments. Slightly further is the La Cordata Accommodation. For a very centrally located and more upscale hotel, check out UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Cadorna Station.

Given the locations of the train stations in both Milan and Como, either train option above is a great, cheap, and quick way to spend the day in Lake Como.

Regardless of which train station you use for your day trip to Como, be sure to keep some key tips in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to book a direct train. In the “Duration” column, it will have a single number showing the time and no changes indicated.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The train station has plenty of machines for you to buy tickets, if you don’t want to commit to a specific train time in advance. There are several languages available, including English.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you purchase using a machine, not every machine will accept credit cards if yours does not have a pin. Have a debit card with a pin available as well for your train ticket purchase, if your credit card does not have a pin number.

Doing a Como Tour

If you’d rather avoid dealing with transportation logistics on your own, there are plenty of Como Day Trip tours you can arrange.

There are a few great Lake Como Day Trip options:

Day Trip to Lake Como and Bellagio, or

Lake Como and Bellagio Day Trip with Boat Cruise, or

Day Trip to Lake Como, Bellagio, and Varenna

For a very different view of the lake, check out this Helicopter Ride for an Aerial View of Lake Como.

There is also this Central Lake Como tour cruises to 3 towns including Bellagio and includes a visit to the gardens at Villa Carlotta.

What to Do in Lake Como for a Day

Here are the main Lake Como 1-day itinerary for your Milan to Lake Como day trip:

Lake Como

Whether you’re arriving by car or train, your drop-off point or parking spot will likely be quite close to the shore of Lake Como. And walking up to the edge of the lake is always the first thing I want to do when I get there!

There are beautiful views along the shore in both directions, and a lovely pathway for a stroll.

Boat Tour

During warm weather months, from about April to October, there are leisure boats lined up along the dock close to the Como Nord (northern) train station in Como.

With a high number of tourists, boats leave quite frequently and very affordable at around 5 Euros per person.

When you arrive at the dock, just ask how soon the next boat is leaving. It is about a 30-minute trip up and back along the adjacent section of lake, and the better boats will point out sites of interest along the way, including spots where famous movies were filmed.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Doing a basic boat tour is different from taking the fast or slow ferry to other towns on the lake, so if you want to just do a boat tour, this is just along the shore, not at the official ticket counter (see ‘Off the Beaten Path‘ below for more details on ferries to other towns).

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Cathedral

The main Cathedral of Como, or Duomo, is located right in the center of town and is a stunning example of Gothic architecture.

It is free to enter and a must-visit spot while you’re visiting. Spend as little or as much time as you like.

Porta Torre and Old City Walls

Arriving at Porta Torre, the medieval town entrance dating back nearly 1,000 years, involves walking through winding cobblestone streets away from the lake front.

Not only will you get a glimpse of the oldest parts of Como along the way, you’ll also get a great sense of this town’s lengthy history and long-standing structures.

Oldest House in Como

Speaking of old structures, be sure to stroll by what is supposedly the oldest house in Como, located above a shop at Via Natta, 1. You’ll definitely know it when you see it.

Como Silk Museum

Did you know that an overwhelming percentage of Europe’s silk production comes from Lake Como?

Ever since a Duke around the year 1400 decided to start growing mulberry trees and importing silkworms from Asia, Como has been a hub of silk production, which continues today.

This museum, located a bit beyond the Porta Torre (see above), chronicles silk’s history in the area and the various stages of production.

Shopping

I’m not always a huge shopper, but there are lots of wonderful things to get in town. There are your typical clothing chains, but also cute kitchen stores, shops with local food products, and jewelry makers. And of course, plenty of Como silk!

Off the Beaten Path on a Milan to Lake Como Day Trip

Como-Brunate Funicular

Lake Como is surrounded by hills and mountains, and while it’s definitely possible to hike up the steep incline on foot, most people opt for the funicular, which is like a steep tram.

There are some shops, sights, and restaurants up top, but most people make the trip for the lovely view of Lake Como.

There is a great viewing spot about a 20-minute relatively flat walk to the left when you exit at the Brunate station.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The funicular runs quite frequently, but it’s always a good idea to look at (or even take a picture) or the return schedule to time your return trip to Como.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The front of the lower section of the funicular is a giant window, and that’s where you’ll get the best views as you ascend and descend. Arrive early to be first in line to snag this spot!

Villa Olmo

There are many villas along Lake Como, one more beautiful than the next, and many with extensive landscaped gardens to behold.

The closest one to the town of Como is Villa Olmo, about a 20-minute walk from the center along the west side of the lakeshore (if you’re facing the lake, to the left). The outdoor areas are impressive with beautiful lake views, and the interior is a free museum open daily except Monday.

Ferries

There are many other towns along the lake, and it’s definitely doable to visit and explore one or more others during a single day, depending on how you want to spend your time.

The link above shows the schedule and fares for various destinations along the lake, or you can find it HERE. To purchase a ticket, arrive at the ticket booth on Lake Como around 20 minutes in advance of your departure.

The town of Bellagio is one of the most popular other towns for visiting, although be aware that it is approximately a 2-hour boat ride with the slow ferry and around 45-minutes one-way if you pay the surcharge for the fast ferry. And it will cost around €10-15 each direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you just want to get out on the water a bit and not necessarily see another town, the faster and more economical way is a tourist boat tour, see ‘Around Town‘ section above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If Bellagio is the main town you’d like to visit on Lake Como, it is faster and cheaper to take a train from Milan to the town of Varenna, and then take a ferry across from there, skipping the town of Como entirely.

Looking to stay overnight in Como?

Check out centrally located, affordable B&B La Rondine or B&B Volta. Or for a posh hotel stay with views of Lake Como, Hotel Quarcino.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels in Como.

Where to Eat with One Day in Lake Como

Ristorante La Cucina di Elsa

This family-run restaurant is close to the waterfront, but just far enough away that it is mostly locals who you’ll find as your dining companions. Apparently there is another branch just across the border in Lugano, Switzerland, but I’ve only been to the Como one.

‘Elsa’s Kitchen’ has typical Italian dishes with a lot of fresh seafood, with dishes that are a bit elevated from down-home cooking, so worth lingering over every perfect bite.

Locanda Barbarossa

Set inside a vast stone building, the ambiance is wonderful along with the food.

Pizza is the most popular, and comes in dozens of varieties including several white pizzas, although the northern Italian risotto and meat specialties are equally delicious if you’re not in the mood for pizza.

Either way, it’s a great spot for a lingering lunch.

Gelateria Lariana

No Italian outing would be complete without gelato.

This gelateria is along the waterfront, but somehow seems to be frequented mostly by locals – it was actually a tip from a local that led me here in the first place.

There are a few spots to sit outside with your gelato, so grab your favorite flavors, and enjoy it along with the view.

READ MORE: Best Spots for Gelato in Italy

It won’t even take a single day here to begin to understand why Lake Como is an ideal location for a summer getaway, and how it has become the ‘it’ destination for so many.

I’ve visited lots of lakes across northern Italy, and with the dramatic cliffs and mountains right up to the water’s edge, Lake Como is still my favorite.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

Looking for other Day Trips from Milan? Check out some of my favorites!

Dramatic views from the elevated city of Bergamo

Enjoying adorable Cremona, home of the Stradivarius violin

And while it would be a long day (and I recommend more time in each) it’s also possible to do a Day Trip from Milan to Florence, Venice, and Verona.

Have you been to Como? Any recommended spots that didn’t make my list? And do you have any other questions about how to spend your time on Lake Como? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

July 12, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

The only way to know good gelato is by trying lots of it and getting your taste buds accustomed to the nuances of this frozen delight – and don’t worry, I did a lot of “research” about where to locate the best gelato in Italy during the three years I lived there. And of course, on my recent return visit.

Let’s just say that I’ve had A LOT of gelato.

And as you enjoy as much gelato as I have, it becomes easier and easier with time to pick out the best spots.

I’ve organized my recommendations by city, presented alphabetically, but you’ll notice that I didn’t include every town I’ve visited or even every gelateria I’ve liked. Only the gelato spots that I found served a really superlative product made this round-up.

The best gelato in Italy can be found in tourist centers as often as off-the-beaten-path spots, but there is a taste that gives you pause and delights with intense flavor and smoothness at all of the locations I’ve listed.

So go ahead, find excellent gelato and treat yourself daily – just like the Italians do!

More About Gelato in Italy

The Basics.

Gelato comes from the Italian word for frozen, but let’s be clear, gelato is not just “Italian ice cream.” It is a very discerning product made with a different process and a different philosophy, which is what makes the end result so memorable.

Proper gelato is served a bit warmer than traditional ice cream, so it is less likely to make your teeth hurt or get an ice cream headache, but this higher temperature is also one of the key parts that contributes to the flavor and texture that makes gelato so delicious – more on both below.

There’s a lot you can tell on sight as well. Many of the places with the best gelato will keep it inside opaque metal canisters, and really good gelato does not stay in those intricate mounds that many of the tourist spots will feature.

And where do you find your gelato in Italy? At a gelateria, of course!

Flavor.

Gelato is also unique because it aims to capture seasonal ingredients at peak freshness.

So while your favorite flavor may not be available depending on when you’re in Italy, gelato flavors you may not like in other places are likely to be exceptional when you go. The two flavors that are universally delicious when you’re in Italy are some of the most local – pistachio (which comes from Sicily) and hazelnut, or nocciola (from the northern Piedmont region).

The intensity of gelato is also related to the churning process, which means less air inside compared to ice cream, leading to bolder, more concentrated flavors. And that warmer serving temperature also has that flavor intensifying effect.

Texture.

Gelato is churned differently from ice cream too, going at a slower pace that results in less air getting mixed in and a denser product. The combination of its composition and warmer temperature leads to the elasticity that gives you that perfectly smooth texture as you savor each concentrated bite.

Even if the flavors are wonderful, anything less than a creamy texture will take away from the gelato experience.

It’s good for you!

No, really! Okay, maybe not quite, but you may be surprised with the density and concentrated flavors of gelato that it actually has fewer calories than ice cream. Gelato tends to use more milk than cream and does not involve egg yolks like many ice creams, so there is also less fat involved.

So go ahead, indulge.

Gelato Etiquette.

Honestly, this is probably not much different than your ice cream experience in other countries. It’s completely acceptable to ask for a taste of a few flavors before you decide what to buy, even if there’s a huge line building up behind you.

The size of your gelato will determine how many different flavors you can get. Typically this is well-signed and you’ll see different size cups displayed at the top of the counter, with both the price and number of gusti, or flavors, indicated. In general, a “small” allows you to pick 2 gusti and you’ll need to get at least a “medium” sized one to enjoy 3 different ones.

Also, be ready to state whether you’ll be having your gelato in a cup (coppetta) or cone (cono).

Every gelateria does things its own way, so even if you get a cup, you may be lucky enough to get a mini cone or wafer stuck on top:

Fortunately for all of us, gelaterie deal in volume, so this is a relatively inexpensive snack that won’t break your budget. An afternoon gelato is part of the daily ritual for many Italians, and it can easily be part of yours when you visit.

Like coffee in Italy, you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised about how cheap it is compared to ice cream at home. In most places it costs only €2.50-3 for a small-sized gelato, often going up in increments of just 50 centesimi, or cents – half a Euro.

TIP! Buying gelato is a great time to spend some of the pile of Euro coins you’ve likely accumulated during your visit!

The Best Gelato in Italy – by City

So, let’s get down to it, where do you go for the best spots that aren’t just catering to tourist whims but producing authentic, seasonal, bold, and smooth gelato?

Bergamo

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

I don’t usually find my favorite gelateria right on the central square, but this spot on the Piazza Vecchia of Bergamo’s elevated upper city delivers. Fruit flavors are super intense with just the right balance to not be too tart or sweet, and the creamy flavors are perfectly smooth. Fancier places will dot your stroll from the funicular or city gate, but it’s worth waiting until you get here to order an afternoon gelato.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Bergamo

Bologna

Cremeria Funivia

I didn’t fall in love with Bologna my first trip, but this was one of the outstanding places that helped change my mind on a return visit. Yes, the gelato really is that delicious. Like many of the spots on this list, they offer both traditional and more inventive flavors, but everything really is outstanding and hits that incredible balance of flavor and texture.

Como

Gelateria Lariana

There are many similar-looking gelato shops along the shore of Lake Como, but this is the only one I return to again and again. Despite its touristy location, the many locals who also stop in tell you that this is just delicious gelato. It is easy to spot with the many people hanging around or stopping to sit outside as they enjoy what I imagine for many is part of their daily routine.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como

Florence

Gelateria Carraia

Gelato is all about the freshness of the ingredients, and this gelateria calls itself artisanal for a reason. Lots of top gelato lists include this spot as the best in Florence, and I definitely agree. Stroll to the far side of the Arno River from the historical center and don’t be dissuaded by the line you’re likely to encounter. This gelato – especially any one of their signature flavors – is worth the wait!

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence

Mantua

Gelateria Loggetta

You’ll see the signs proclaiming the many accolades this gelateria has received, and one taste will have you convinced as well that the awards are well-deserved. It is just so spot on when it comes to flavors and textures. And you’ll have the occasional experimental flavor thrown in with classics done very well.

Milan

Ciacco

There are now a couple of Milan locations of this spot (plus ones in Bergamo and Parma), but after 3 years of living in Milan, I had to put my favorite Milano gelateria in the Milan section, of course. You won’t have to venture far to locate the main Milan outpost just a short stroll from the main Cathedral, Milan’s Duomo. The standards are done exceptionally well, with bold pops of flavor and silky smooth texture you’ll want to savor. There are usually a few seasonal creative flavors to enjoy as well. Possibly my all-time favorite flavor was a savory squash one I enjoyed my last autumn living there:

Il Massimo del Gelato

Are you a chocolate lover? Then this is your gelato heaven. Named the ultimate or maximum (massimo) of gelato, the flavors do not disappoint. In addition to the fruit and nut flavors you’d expect, there are also usually close to a dozen of variations just of chocolate, from different types of chocolate, to mixtures involving orange or different liqueurs. And it’s even better than you’re imagining right now!

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Rome

Gelateria Dei Gracchi

Rome has no shortage of gelato places, so when one is doing well enough to expand to multiple locations, you know it’s delicious. There are several flavors that you won’t find at most spots, but my hands-down favorite is the crema di pinoli, the cream of pine nuts which is perfectly flavored and velvety to devour. Get in line with the local families taking their children after school and find out why it’s their go-to spot in Rome, too.

Fatamorgana Gelato

Many of the gelato flavors you’ll find at Fatamorgana are inventive, from savory flavors to spices and herbs being mixed with your more typical chocolate or fruit base. Sure, there are the more usual flavors here, but many Fatamorgana branches are frequented by locals looking for something that is creative without sacrificing what makes gelato so delicious. It’s not the only creative gelateria I’ve sampled in Rome, but it’s the only one that also creates that perfect gelato texture with its more unusual ingredients.

San Gimignano

Gelateria Dondoli

There are two very popular gelato spots on the same piazza in San Gimignano – and both are likely to have lines out the door! Don’t worry though, Dondoli is the one you want. The queue moves fast and you will be treated to some incredibly creative, strong flavors and a silky smooth texture regardless of the flavor you choose. This Gelateria is known for its signature flavors, like the Crema di Santa Fina (with saffron cream and pine nuts) and Champelmo (pink grapefruit and sparkling wine). The view as you enjoy your gelato is pretty great, too:

Venice

Gelatoteca Suso

Venice is probably my least favorite major Italian city for gelato, but the best of all the ones I’ve tried is definitely this spot. The flavors are strong and each bite is smooth to savor, even though visually it looks less smooth than the other place I’ve featured. I also love it for serving gelato with one of its branded wafers, even when you get gelato in a cup.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice

READ MORE: Venice Cheat Sheet

Verona

Gelateria Savoia

Keeping locals happy in Verona since 1939, this historical gelateria continues to be the go-to spot for locals and with good reason. It is central and in a high-end location, giving just a touch of luxury, and has a wide list of flavors and other sweet treats to keep everyone satisfied.

Gelato may be more complex than you expected, but the good news is that great gelato comes down to two key things – flavor and texture. And given the frequent gelato consumption by Italians, all it takes is a conversation with any locals to get directed to the best gelateria nearby. As good as Italian food is, it’s always worth saving just a little bit of room for this afternoon (or evening) snack.

Did your favorite gelato in Italy make this list? What other gelato spots do you recommend for my next visit? Is there anything else you look for in a great gelato? I’m always looking to expand my gelato horizons =)

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Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

December 8, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Whether you’re a visitor who’s looking to do some aperitivo hopping one of your nights in Milan, or you live in the city and are looking to add some new aperitivo spots in Milan to your repertoire, there are a wealth of options to choose from.

If you’re not familiar, aperitivo is not only a pre-dinner drink to whet your appetite, but also includes some small snacks at a minimum. And in some cases, a full buffet of food that can substitute for dinner. Check out a previous blog post for more about aperitivo, what drinks are typical, and why you want to experience it first-hand.

In general, aperitivo lasts from around 6 to 9pm, although exact hours vary place to place. If you’d like to sit outside or arrive several hours in, you may want to make a reservation. Otherwise, your best bet can just be to show up early and snag a table then. Most drinks are in the €8-12 range, although the posher places will be a bit pricier. And at some – but not all – places, your second drink (seconda consumazione) will be at a slightly cheaper price.

Milan is the city where aperitivo originated, so there are seemingly endless options for where to go. Two neighborhoods have clusters of places for aperitivo spots in Milan: Corso Sempione close to the Arch of Peace (Arco della Pace) and Milan’s canal zone called Navigli, close to the Porta Genova metro stop on the green line. If you’re going to do some aperitivo hopping, the Navigli area is probably the best place to go as it has the most variety and certainly the largest number of options.

But there are great options for aperitivo spots in Milan all across the city, which I’ve listed in two different categories, based on how much food you’ll get along with your drink:

Drinks and Nibbles

aperol-terrace

Aperol Terrace

Come early to snag a seat on their outdoor terrace overlooking the Duomo, Milan’s central cathedral. Aperol is one of the main spritz ingredients, and there cocktail list has an interesting variety of Aperol cocktails to choose from (as well as other drinks). Small bites will arrive with your drinks, and are great nibbles as you sip your drink and enjoy the view.

Duomo 21 Terrace Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan Italy IMG_20180413_173737

Duomo 21 Terrace

The cocktails here aren’t quite as nice as the Aperol Terrace listed above, but I think the view is better! And it’s a great option when the line at Aperol Terrace is so long it is snaking down the stairway like it was on my most recent visit. There are a few small nibbles that arrive with your drinks but the view of the Duomo will keep you lingering.

TIP! Part of the reason it’s less crowded here is that it’s a bit harder to find. When you get to the entryway below the terrace, follow the signs with arrows back to the left to take the further elevator upstairs.

FAB Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan Italy DSC_0431

FAB

Relatively new to the Navigli canal area is this bar with incredibly delicious cocktails and small bites fit for even the most discerning Milanese tastes. It’s also a bit down the canal from where most people enter so my friend and I had no wait to sit outside on a weekend evening. Definitely a great first stop for “aperitivo hopping” in this area packed with great options or as the pre-dinner drink and nibbles I enjoyed when I visited.

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Lacerba

Off the yellow line of the metro and several tram spots, there is a cocktail bar and sister restaurant next door, and the cocktails are exceptional. There are tons of options, all well-balanced and with some interesting flavor combinations. There is a fairly sizeable plate of snacks that will arrive with your drinks, which can even be made vegetarian – just ask your server.

Mag Cafe

Located in the Navigli canal zone, this is often a first stop for me on a night of aperitivo bar hopping because the cocktails are excellent and if the outdoor seating is full, it is equally fun in the quirky inside seating area. And when your drink is served, in addition to a small plate of charcuterie and cheese, there is usually some kind of cute accompaniment. My most recent cocktail there came with its own custom postcard, which includes the recipe for the drink.

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Nottingham Forest

The only Milan spot to be voted as one of the World’s 50 Best Bars, the cocktails here are works of art and whimsy. It’s quite tiny, so either reserve or be waiting outside the door when the bar opens. And plan to spend a bit of time here, as it may take you the first half hour just to leaf through the book that serves as the menu and make your choice. The drinks are not only delicious, but fun – the one meant to be like a science experiment is bright blue and arrives in a beaker with what looks like soap suds up top. Another in a high heel. So yeah, it’s that kind of place, with small plates of nibbles to accompany your cocktails creations. One of the most unique aperitivo spots in Milan you can visit!

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Rita & Cocktails

This spot is a bit further up the Naviglio Grande in the canal zone from the main entry point, so it takes a bit longer to fill up and get busy, so it’s a great spot to seek out later in the evening. The cocktail list is interesting and vast, but presented in a manageable little booklet to help you decide based on what flavors you’d like. There are quite a few small snacks that come with the drinks, but there is also a full kitchen so if you stick around long enough you can also order a proper dinner dish, which is also tasty.

UGO

This is another spot in the Navigli zone, with small snacks so the focus is on the cocktails. There is a shorter set list of cocktails here, which makes deciding a bit easier than some of the other spots on this list. And since it is on a side street and not along the canal itself, it tends to be more relaxed while still lively. Even arriving later in the evening, I’ve never had to wait long for a seat.

Drinks and Full Food Buffet

hclub>diana at Sheraton Diana Majestic Hotel

Of this list of top aperitivo spots in Milan that include a full buffet, I like the cocktails here best – and you’ll pay a premium for them. Which I don’t mind, because there is a food buffet that rotates throughout the night and is also quite good. This is an especially coveted aperitivo spot when the weather is warm, as there is a vast outdoor garden with a lot of seating. It’s also a spot to dress on the nice side, officially “smart casual.”

Living

This is the only spot in this post that is along the Corso Sempione stretch I mentioned above, as I find it to be a cut above the other nearby spots I’ve frequented. Outdoor seating goes quickly, so come early or reserve, and enjoy the variety of their high-quality food buffet. And if you’d like to hop around I’d start here first, but there are many other places to check out nearby as well.

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Long Island & Manhattan

I’ve grouped these two Navigli locations together because they are sister bars that share a kitchen, and are only a few doors apart from one another. You’ll get to enjoy piping hot pizza by the slice and dessert options, things that are not part of your typical aperitivo buffet. I’ve probably been to these the most of any spots on the list, because if you’re going to hit up one spot for aperitivo, you’ll get fed well here and get to experience the nightlife of the canal area. And the names come from the cocktails I believe, not the parts of New York, so you’ll see many different variations of a Long Island Iced Tea and Manhattan on the cocktail menus.

Spritz

Spritz has a similar buffet to Long Island & Manhattan, and is also located in the Navigli area. Its cocktails are notable for the many variations they offer of the spritz, one of the typical aperitivo drinks. If you’re planning to reserve a spot, they usually organize into two seatings: one around 6pm and the second around 8:30pm. There is quite a lot of indoor seating as well, so it’s also a place you can probably just show up as long as it’s not too late in the evening.

Was your favorite aperitivo spot in Milan left off the list? Or which of the places above is your go-to for aperitivo? Let me know in the Comments below.

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Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

December 20, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Europe overall is quite festive for the holidays, especially with the prevalence of Christmas markets, each with a different flavor depending on the country you’re in. I’ve already written about how to enjoy Milan for the holidays, covering the concerts and markets and special events that extend from early December into January. But of course, you’ll need plenty of snacks and drinks to keep you going through the hours on your feet in the cold, winter air as you do your holiday shopping.

There is plenty of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food that is part of everyday Milanese cuisine, from polenta to meat stews to risotto. But for me, it’s the hot beverages and seasonal desserts of Milan and its outdoor markets that really nurture the soul at holiday time. Here are the foods and drinks I always seek out to get into the holiday spirit:

Vin Brulé

This is what the Italians call mulled wine, which I always found interesting because while the name sounds French, the French actually refer to it as vin chaud (hot wine). In any case, the best spot to find vin brulé is at one of Milan’s many holiday markets, where the hot wine will have had time to steep in the many spices that give it such a holiday aroma. There is no shortage of stands selling vin brulé, so follow your nose.

Roasted Chestnuts

Growing up in America and listening to songs about “chestnuts roasting on an open fire,” it was one of those lyrics that just sounded good. Fast forward to living in Milan – people really do roast chestnuts, and this is one of the most common street vendors you’ll see at holiday time pretty much everywhere, and especially at any outdoor Christmas market. It is such a smoky, nutty taste of winter, and is a product you can’t usually find at other times of year, so take advantage while you can.

Cioccolata Calda

Hot chocolate in Milan is closer to a solid than a liquid, with actual chocolate melted into a deliciously thick concoction usually “eaten” with a spoon and occasionally sipped. It’s a bit heavier than having a cup of vin brulé, but is a very satisfying way to warm you up and fulfill your craving for something sweet. Cioccolata calda is widely available at holiday markets, and also can be found at nearly every coffee bar. If you don’t see a sign advertising it, ask – they probably have it.

Panettone/Pandoro

Panettone is a Milanese holiday dessert that you only see in December and early January. It’s like a much airier version of a fruitcake, with a soft, wispy, yeasty dough dotted with canditi – candied pieces of fruit. If you’re like me and don’t like the canditi, you can always opt for the Northern Italian cousin pandoro, which is minus the fruit and raisins.

A slice or whole loaf of panettone is widely available at any of the holiday markets, but ask any Milanese and they’ll tell you that the best version you’ll ever eat comes from Pasticcieria Marchesi. (It was the delectable Marchesi version that was happily devoured at the last holiday party I hosted, pictured above.) When you buy it whole, it comes with a packet of powdered sugar and a plastic bag so you can shake it yourself and coat the panettone or pandoro so it’s ready for serving.

Gelato

Hear me out on this one. Gelato is made with seasonal ingredients, so you can get some excellent ones with holiday flavor profiles. I find after a minute or two inside a well-heated gelateria I am all ready to savor some winter concoctions, cold as they may be. Pictured here is my favorite winter flavor: zucca (or squash/pumpkin) from Milan’s Ciacco gelateria.

What foods get you into the holiday state of mind? Are there any other holiday treats you’ve enjoyed in Milan that I should add to my list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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How to Enjoy Milan for the Holidays

December 6, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

The first week of December in Milan is essentially the start of the Christmas season. The Feast of Saint Ambrose, Milan’s patron saint, is a public holiday on December 7^th, followed by the national holiday for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception the very next day. And then the Christmas season extends until Epiphany, which doesn’t take place until January 6^th.

In a country where nearly 90% of the population is not just Christian, but Catholic, obviously these church holidays throughout Italy shape the month of December and into the new year. And as the weather chills, the smell of roasting chestnuts reaches you as you stroll down the central streets and there are stands selling a steaming cup of mulled wine, or vin brulee. Signs that it is time to get into the holiday spirit!

Here are some special events to experience in Milan during the holiday season:

Christmas Markets

The big square, or piazza, in front of Milan’s Duomo (the main cathedral) is filled with row after row of vendors selling Christmas-related items starting at the beginning of December, as are the public gardens, or Giardini Pubblici. A variety of crafts and foods are on sale to help you find gifts for the holidays, but there are also food items for immediate consumption to help keep your energy up as you shop. Christmas markets in Europe are a destination unto themselves!

L’Artigiano in Fiera

Loosely meaning artisanal goods in a festival or fair, this is hands-down the favorite market I’ve been to in Europe. The first thing to know is that it is massive, beyond what you could imagine if you’ve never been to a large-scale convention on the continent. It completely takes over Milan’s newer convention center, which is so large that its footprint lies at the very end of the red metro line as it could not be accommodated in the city. And L’Artigiano in Fiera features handmade goods, crafts, furniture, scarves, trinkets, you-name-it from all over the world.

Giant convention halls are devoted to a single continent or region, with stalls as far as the eye can see, and of course there are tons of food stalls and restaurants intermixed, with the best examples of Italian and ethnic foods you could hope for. Giant baguette? Check. A black truffle for €10? Check. A fresh round of Tête de Moine cheese from Switzerland? Check. Candied ginger from Asia? Check. It’s a wonderland for the serious foodie, and boasts the best selection of holiday gift options you may ever come across. It runs during the first two weekends in December, including the weekdays in between, which will be the far less crowded times to visit.

Feast of Saint Ambrose & Oh Bej! Oh Bej! Market

Not only is this the local Milan holiday for the city’s patron saint with associated religious celebrations, but there is also a giant market called Oh Bej! Oh Bej! that takes place in and around the Sforza Castle from December 7^th (the Feast day) through the following Sunday. The curved road around the castle becomes pedestrian-only and fills with locals doing holiday shopping or simply coming to eat their way through the predominantly Italian snacks and street food available at the many stands. Even if you’re not looking for anything particular, there is such a variety of goods, from artwork to kitchenware to fresh spices to jewelry that even without making a purchase you’ll be entertained for several hours.

Babbo Running

Babbo is the name affectionately given by the Italian to the man you may know better as Santa Claus. So yes, Babbo Running is just as fun to watch as you might imagine. Taking place in mid-late December, this run to benefit charity usually has its course around the same Sforza Castle area that hosts the Oh Bej! Oh Bej! market described above. And the runners? All dressed in Santa costumes!

Christmas Midnight Mass at the Duomo

Although many Milanesi will be on vacation over the holidays, those who remain in the city may opt for attending midnight mass at the iconic Gothic cathedral, the Duomo. If you plan to attend, be sure to arrive when the doors open at 10:30pm to secure a seat. The mass typically begins at 11:30pm on Christmas Eve, December 24^th.

New Year’s Eve Concert in Piazza Duomo

While there are New Year’s Eve events all over town, one of the popular outdoor events is the several-hours long free concert in the giant square in front of the Duomo cathedral, leading up to the countdown at midnight. It’s also totally legal to have open bottles of alcohol with you on the street, which many people celebrating will bring along (do note however, that if you have any glass bottles you’ll need to stay outside the barricade – where you can still hear and enjoy the concert, of course).

TIP! If you spend New Year’s Eve in Milan, watch out for the people setting off fireworks in the streets if you’re doing any walking between parties or back at the end of the night.

And while you’re in Milan for the holidays…

Traditional Food & Drink

In addition to the mulled wine (vin brulee) and roasted chestnuts available from street vendors throughout the city, there is a typical Milanese holiday dessert that is not to be missed – panettone. Panettone is a large, airy, yellow bread studded with candied fruit. Markets will sometimes have them in miniature size, or you can even find panettone from the large loaf available by the slice. And if you’d like the version without the candied pieces inside, just ask for Pandoro.

What local traditions help you to get into the holiday spirit? If you’ve been to Milan for the holidays, anything else I should have recommended? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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What It’s Like Celebrating July 4th Abroad

July 4, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

There is something particular about being overseas for a national holiday – especially your country’s Independence Day – and I’ve had my fair share of experience celebrating July 4^th abroad. Which for me has always been a very different experience from celebrating at home.

Perhaps my desire to mark the day somehow is due to the many all-American July 4^th celebrations I’ve had stateside. As a kid on a road trip with my sister and grandparents, we spent the evening of July 4^th in Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia, watching fireworks in a historical American setting with staff milling about in period dress.

As an adult, I lived in Washington, DC for nearly a decade, and spent many Independence Days there. Once spending it in the crowds of people down on the National Mall by all of the monuments. Another year at the top of a hill overlooking the fireworks from a neighborhood spot where everyone had poured out onto the streets. I also enjoyed hosting a barbecue and watching the fireworks from afar for many years with large groups of friends on the rooftop of my apartment building. Eating red, white, and blue colored desserts and taking in the many fireworks displays across the horizon.

And then after so many typically American July 4^th celebrations, I moved abroad.

Whether living abroad or simply taking advantage of the day off for the holiday to take a trip overseas, many of you have probably been out of the country for the 4^th of July, even if it was just once.

I’ve enjoyed celebrating July 4^th abroad many times now, whether it was where I was living at the time, or on a summer trip. Here are a few of the ways I’ve marked the day when I’ve been outside of the US:

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Perth, Australia

When you live abroad, it’s sort of an unwritten rule that you have one week before and after to properly celebrate a holiday from back home that is just another regular day where you’re living. Especially when it’s a holiday that falls on a weekday.

So in 2012 when I was living in Perth, Australia, my July 4^th celebration actually happened a few days early – on July 1^st (thanks cell phone camera, for helping me figure that out exactly!). Definitely within that week leeway on either side of the actual date.

I knew the celebration was a carnival, taking place mostly outdoors. And remember that while July is summer in the US, it’s wintertime in Australia. Fortunately Perth has one of the mildest Australian winters, so it was still quite pleasant strolling around.

I knew the event was a carnival, but there were a lot of unexpected ways that the event was an “American” celebration.

Like the American classic cars:

Although you typically need to re-fit any cars you bring over to move the steering wheel to the right-hand side like the Australian vehicles, you can get a special dispensation to keep the steering wheel on the left if you have a classic car.

Or the tons of motorcycles, many outfitted with American décor:

Yes, there was a carnival, too. A costume contest and an American flag cake and booths all around, including from the local Perth baseball team.

But it was the unique aspects of the day – namely the vehicles – that still stand out in my memory the most.

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad over a Road Trip in France

One year the 4^th of July fell over a summer road trip. On July 3^rd I waved goodbye to the foodie mecca of San Sebastian, Spain, and headed toward a small town across the border in France to stay with family friends of my traveling companion.

This was a British couple with a vacation home in France, and the timing just happened to work out for us to pop in for a night. What I didn’t know was that the couple had just recently become American citizens, after several years living in the US.

So when we first drove up to the gate, this was our welcome:

Obviously we had found the right house, and had even been placed in a room in the house meticulously decorated with American memorabilia. However, that was the end of the American-themed part of the day.

We enjoyed a dinner of local specialties with bottles of wine we picked up at a winery just down the road. In the morning, we strolled through a local market and had a typically French start to the morning with cafe au lait and fresh croissants.

Somehow, though, as I reveled in the local French experience, it stood out as a contrast to what the day would have been like had I been in the US instead.

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Milan, Italy

July 4^th last year, which I spent at home in Milan, Italy, had the potential to be my biggest July 4^th overseas yet. I had lived in the city nearly three years at that point and knew a ton of other Americans. I was a member of an English-speaking women’s club that had a lot of American members. I was invited to a large Independence Day celebration.

While the day had the potential to be a blowout July 4^th, it ended up being incredibly low-key. It was like any other Monday, and although as an American I definitely wanted to celebrate somehow, I did not feel up for the party atmosphere.

So instead I had what for me was the perfect way to mark the holiday. I met up with a small group of American friends locally and we went for dinner together at a restaurant owned by an American friend.

And as my own personal way to mark the day as being different, I conducted a mini act of American rebellion in Italy of wearing flip flops out. Which definitely marks you as an outsider, as this is not how the locals dress when they leave the house in Italy.

Although my July 4^th in Milan might not sound so exciting, when you’re overseas and national holidays come along, it’s up to you how you would like to celebrate. Sometimes the big organized party will be your speed, other times it’s a quiet meal with close friends.

However you decide to mark the occasion, the important piece for me has always been doing something special and recognizing the day in some way. Making the holiday your own, even if it’s not a typical celebration.

Happy 4^th of July!!

Have you ever been in the position of celebrating July 4^th abroad? What was the experience like for you? If you’ve always celebrated July 4^th stateside, would you ever consider being abroad for the holiday? I’d love to hear your thoughts and about your experiences!

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How to Survive Missing Your Airline Connection

January 31, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

It almost never snows in Milan. In three years of living there, I saw it snow for at most a half hour at a time – usually rain that turned into snow briefly, and then back to rain. Snowfall is typically light or non-existent each winter because most of the cold fronts and snow get trapped in the Alps not far outside of the city. The biggest accumulation I ever saw was a light dusting that lasted just long enough for me (in a brief moment of inspiration) go for a run in Sempione Park.

So last month as I was preparing for my repatriation trip to the United States, a.k.a. moving back “home,” I had a lot of mixed thoughts and emotions about the trip – but none that included a snow-related delay for my flight! I didn’t even check the weather before heading to the airport, since winter in Milan tends to hover just above freezing pretty much every day. (Although I found out later that snow was not in the forecast, so checking the weather wouldn’t have helped anyway.)

Only when I was at the airport all checked in and cleared through customs did I approach the departure gate. Which is when I first glanced outside and was quite surprised to see a sheet of white on the other side of the window. Even then I thought that it was most likely hail, and it was only when I walked closer to the glass did I realize it was snowing. And not just flurries, it was driving snow coming down hard and fast. Of course, since the first leg of my flight was the relatively short hop from Milan to London, we didn’t even have a jetbridge to stroll onto the airplane directly, but ended up boarding by taking a bus to the plane and then ascending on foot.

Getting off the shuttle bus and crossing the tarmac on foot to board the plane, I (along with all of the Milanesi) were consumed by the joy of the snowfall. Smartphones popped into everyone’s hands, with pretty much all the passengers snapping shots of the snow, the airport and the snow, and selfies boarding the plane as it’s snowing. It was such an unusual event, everyone wanted to capture it, and we passengers were all smiles as we boarded.

It was in the moment after I took my seat that the panic and dread about my connecting flight started to set in. I had an already tight connection of barely over an hour at London Heathrow, one of the largest airports in the world. I wasted no time and flagged over the flight attendant nearly immediately. He tried to reassure me that we’d likely make up time in the air and it shouldn’t be that bad. Then the captain comes on and she starts talking about the growing line to get the plane de-iced and then the likely takeoff delays after that process. Her ballpark estimate of our delay time is a modest 20 minutes. Another flight attendant stops by and she lets me know that my outbound flight should be leaving from the same terminal where we’ll be arriving, and that as long as I clear the transfer desk 35 minutes in advance, all should be well.

But of course de-icing and even the line to start the process takes longer than expected. Then we are far back in the line of planes waiting to leave. By the time we take off, it’s almost an hour after our original departure time. Although we are supposed to make up some of that time in the air, for an unknown reasons we slow down to cross Swiss air space. We land at Heathrow nearly an hour late, so just minutes before my next flight is expected to leave. I head briskly to the transfer desk anyway and find a person who brings me to the front of the line, but when my boarding pass is scanned an unpleasant beep sounds, indicating that I am too late for the electronic gate to let me through.

At a smaller airport, or even some of the larger US ones where I’ve had tight connections before, they might hold the plane for you. Or there could be a cascade of delays, allowing you time to catch the continuing flight. At Heathrow, everything is automated and there is no way for the staff to override the built-in time limits. When my boarding pass for the transfer is rejected by the scanner, there is nothing left to try – I take a deep breath and head straight for the re-booking line.

What to Expect When You Miss Your Connection
The first thing to expect when you miss a flight, especially at a big airport like London’s Heathrow, is . . . waiting. The rush of trying to catch your flight and all of the adrenaline that is pumping through your system comes to a screeching halt as you get in line behind the other delayed and frustrated travelers in the re-booking line. I was fortunate to have been traveling in Business class (this is what happens when it’s a company-booked flight), so there was a separate re-booking line I could join. Even then, it took me nearly a half hour to reach the front of the queue and finally speak to a person.

By this time, a couple of what would have been re-booking options for me had elapsed. They could have re-routed me at that point to a far away airport in the US, but then ground transportation once I arrived would have been at my own expense to the tune of hundreds of dollars. With 3 checked bags and a carry-on, there would have been no way to take cheaper public transit options. However, staying overnight and catching the same connecting flight the following day meant that British Airways would put me up in a hotel and provide meal and transportation vouchers for free.

In the end, it made the most sense for me to simply take the flight the next day, and once that was decided it was just a matter of getting everything booked and my vouchers printed. Here’s what was involved in being put up overnight by the airline:

Phone Calls
It didn’t occur to me that I’d be able to use the airline’s phone to make an international call to the US, until the helpful staff member at the desk saw me fumbling with my Italian cell phone. Although I only made a single call, I found out later that in the European Union (EU), you are entitled to 2 phone calls or some other type of communication in the event of being re-booked (see more in the section below on the Passenger Rights).

Hotel
I imagine that pretty much all airlines will book you at a hotel as close to the airport as possible. For me, the surprise came in that British Airways has a separate hotel for its customers traveling in Business Class. Apparently I would have ended up somewhere else if they were re-booking an Economy ticket. Either way, there seems to be particular hotels they are partnered with, and I did not get a choice about where I stayed.

Transportation
The hotel was close to the airport, but still a bit of a drive, so the airline covered my round-trip transportation. The down side? Transportation was only covered on a specific shuttle bus, so I was subject to their schedule in both directions, and could not simply catch a ride when I was ready. Also, transportation was only covered between the airport and the hotel. When I went into downtown London to stroll around and meet a friend for dinner, that was at my own expense.

Meal Vouchers
Since breakfast was included at the hotel, I received two meal vouchers. The first was for a “snack” and only valid at the airport. So the first thing I did after being re-booked was stay at the airport so I could get some food as I had missed lunch and was actually quite hungry at that point. My second voucher was for dinner, but again with limited validity. I could only use it at the hotel. By the point my vouchers were issued I knew it was likely I’d go into London to meet a friend for dinner, so asked if there was an alternate voucher for this. There wasn’t, so dinner ended up being at my own expense.

Luggage
This is an important one – checked luggage stays checked during the layover. So you will not have access to what’s inside your checked bags. This is one of the reasons that I’m so glad I pack my carry-on bag strategically every time I fly (see more about my essential carry-on items in the next section on How to Be Ready for Every Flight).

Amenities Kit
You may be familiar with the amenities kit you’ll get from an airline for an overnight flight, usually with an eye mask, toothbrush, tissues, and maybe some lotion. When you are put up overnight by the airline at a hotel, it’s a slightly different collection of items. My British Airways kit contained an XL t-shirt (for the record I usually wear a small so this would have been like a dress on me), deodorant, shampoo, lotion, shaving cream, a razor, a comb, & a toothbrush with a tiny toothpaste tube. If I hadn’t been prepared, this would have been great to tide me over until the next day, but I still felt better having my own stuff. In the end, I didn’t use anything from this pack.

Immigration
I’ve even had to clear immigration for long layovers that were not delayed. Certainly in the case of a flight delay of many hours or an overnight in a different country than where you left from, you will have to be processed (plus, you’ll want to leave the airport anyway). I have Global Entry for arriving in the US, so I was not expected any new passport stamps before returning home and being able to get a new passport, as mine was almost completely full. Fortunately while the Immigration Officer made sure I wasn’t traveling anywhere else besides the UK that would require space for a stamp, he found a somewhat empty corner to place the UK stamp and let me in =)

Passenger Rights
I wouldn’t have thought to ask for this, but the re-booking desk provided me with a copy of the Passenger Rights for the EU. Other countries have similar policies. Some of the compensation I received was specific to Europe, so be sure to request a copy of what your rights are in the country where you’ve been delayed. If a copy is not available, find it online to know what you’re entitled to get in your specific scenario.

How to Be Ready for Every Flight

Some of the reason I survived staying overnight unexpectedly in a surprise country with the greatest of ease is because I am *always* prepared for the unexpected every time I board a flight. What does this mean?

First, if you have any sort of connecting flight, be sure to book with the same airline for whole itinerary. An airline only has an obligation to help you if it one of their flights that caused you to miss the next one. Otherwise, if you are traveling on two different carriers, there is no help if you’re delayed and miss the connection. It will be your financial responsibility to sort it out.

I’ve had my luggage delayed on several occasions, this was the first time I was waylaid en route. That’s usually the contingency I’m planning for – me making it to my final destination without luggage. I’ve had my luggage delayed for anywhere from a few hours to several days, and my carry on bag is always packed with that possibility in mind.

Another general preparation tip – make sure your carry on bag makes it onto the plane with you! All of the emergency provisions you pack are only useful if you still have access to them if your luggage doesn’t make it or ends up routed to a wrong destination. To do this, I go to great lengths to make sure that the plane does not run out of overhead space before I board, requiring me to “gate check” my bag. Even it means queuing up early to board the plane.

With the “gate check” process, sometimes your bag is brought to you at the jetway to pick up and sometimes it comes out on the belt with your checked luggage (causing you to spend additional time once you arrive to retrieve it). Sometimes they tell you that your bag will come to the jetway, and you only find out at your destination that it will come out with the checked luggage instead. Again, reasons I try my best to avoid being in the situation of having to “gate check” my bag. Just in case.

Here’s what to pack in your carry-on for any “just in case” situation, whether it’s your checked bag not arriving at your destination or you needing to stay overnight unexpectedly in a strange city or country:

Laptop, e-reader, and other key electronics
Chargers for your phone & any other electronics you have with you
Universal plug adapter (for any international travel)
Basic toiletries, including toothbrush, hairbrush, & deodorant
Other basic items, including nail clippers, tweezers, band-aids, & a sewing kit
Any moisturizers or lotions, plus travel-sized shower items (for me this is shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, facewash, & body lotion) And yes, this all fits in my quart-sized bag. And then some.
Any medicines you might need, plus several pills of a basic pain-killer and an anti-diarrheal
Pajamas
At least 1 clean additional shirt and 1 pair of socks
Several clean pairs of underwear.
→ Yes, even though I only bring one shirt and a pair of socks, I bring several pairs of underwear. Because other things can be dirty in a pinch if you’re delayed longer than expected (or your lost luggage takes extra time to arrive). You want your underwear to be clean.

There are a few other things that I typically have in my carry-on bag – like an umbrella – but this list is just the essentials to be sure to include for those “just in case” situations. There’s definitely space for more than this in my carry-on, with the specifics of the other contents depending on the trip.

In this particular instance, I was especially glad to have my universal adapter, as the UK is on a different plug from both Italy and the US. Without it, I wouldn’t have been able to charge my devices. And even though I got basic toiletries and a t-shirt from the airline, I was far more relaxed and comfortable having my own clothes and basics to get me through my unexpected layover in London.

Plus, since I didn’t have to spend any time scrambling to buy clothing or toiletries or electronics, I was able to focus my time on meeting up last-minute with friends (I saw 2 different friends during my surprise layover!) and soaking up the holiday atmosphere of London, just a few days before Christmas.

Have you ever missed your connecting flight? What do you wish you had known beforehand? Share any tips I missed for how to survive a surprise overnight layover!

Travel Superlatives of 2016

December 27, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

As I reflect back on this past year in travel, there are so many memories that bubble up. Unexpected adventures, delicious meals, and shared laughter with friends. And of course, also rushing through airports, lost luggage, or barely making the last train. About half my trips were with friends or family, and the other half as a solo traveler.

Travel is definitely not all rainbows and unicorns, but as someone told me once about travel: It’s either a great experience . . . or a great story! I end this year with quite a few of both, and heaps of gratitude for all of the adventures I was privileged to experience – the good, the bad, and the random.

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Most New Countries in a Year: 11! (and a full passport to boot)

I didn’t set out this year to visit a ton of new countries, it just sort of happened. Looking back, the new countries I made it to in Europe in 2016 – 6 – is actually quite similar to the 5 new European countries I explored last year (this year it was Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Liechtenstein, Romania, & Sweden for those of you keeping track). Ditto for Asia. Last year, I went to 2 new countries, and this year the same: Indonesia & Singapore. What really put me over the top was making it to Costa Rica for the first time on my family vacation back in August, and also getting a chance to explore 2 new countries in the Middle East with my sister this December: Oman & United Arab Emirates. Thanks, family!!

FYI, my American readers, the US phased out adding extra pages to passports at the end of 2015, so if your passport becomes full like mine, you’ll have to renew it to travel even if it’s not expiring yet. The good news is that when you renew, you can choose the longer length for no additional cost. Obviously something on my immediate to-do list in the new year 😉

Hardest Time Finding a Restaurant: Berat, Albania

When you’re traveling in Albania, you seek out Berat. Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is known as The Town of a Thousand Windows for the beautifully window-filled view you get of the hillside from the river. Many people stay in Berat overnight, but it can also be visited as a day trip during a weekend in Tirana like I did with friends back in May. We got an early start, and spent a good part of the morning hiking uphill and exploring the Berat Castle. Well after noon, we felt that we had taken in the sights, but had not been particularly inspired by the food choices inside the castle walls. And we saw one place right outside the walls, but it was a giant eatery with tour buses parked outside, so didn’t seem like our style either. Instead we found the restaurant that everyone had been raving about online as being the spot locals prefer, and started to make our way in that direction.

There were four of us including me, and with several people consulting the maps on their phone, we thought that surely we could find our way to this nearby spot quite quickly, as we were starting to get quite hungry. We started down the one hill connecting the castle entrance to town and it kept looking like a wiggle down the next side street would lead us to the restaurant entrance. I would pop down one alleyway, certain it was finally the right one, and then reappear a minute later dejected that there was no eatery present. Eventually, we made it to the bottom of the hill to town and close to the car, but let’s be real – we were committed to finding the restaurant at this stage! We drove a bit to side streets where an alternate online map placed the taverna. Then we returned to the bottom of the hill where we had started, and asked some locals passing by if they knew how to get there. Finally, after what was probably *way* too much time floundering on our own, we called the restaurant. The owner, being so gracious at what was now probably around 2pm, actually came to fetch us.

We were able to follow him in his car on a meandering path that brought us . . . to a restaurant right at the top of the path right by the castle! I think it had been hidden by the hilltop and the large restaurant with the tourist buses, but of course we had been right there at the beginning. Fortunately all of our efforts were rewarded, with a massive, delectable feast of Albanian food with a Greek twist at Taverna Lazaro.

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Place I Made the Most Friends on the Road: Waiting in Line for a Kebab in Berlin

I usually make the most friends on the road when I am traveling solo, and this year is no exception. In the end, I actually had relatively few trips when I was in a hostel-type accommodation, which is where I would normally meet other travelers. And although I did walking tours and other group activities on my own, it was actually in a quest for food that I found the most kindred spirits. Nothing brings people together quite like shared queuing, and on this particular night in Berlin, I was set on getting what is probably the city’s most famous kebab. The line was moving along at a decent clip, but then the stand ran out of supplies (!) and had to re-stock. So what was looking like a 20-minute wait became closer to an hour, and I had a chance to gain some insight on the city from two other expats: a Spaniard living and working in Berlin and a Taiwanese student studying there. More proof that you never know who’ll you meet on the road.

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Best Wine Tasting: Argiolas in Cagliari (Sardinia, Italy)

One of the best parts of living in Europe is the wine. Grapes tend to be very local, and grown and processed in a way to complement the typical food of a region. I’ve done my fair share of wine tasting all over Europe in 2016 (and even a bit in Australia this year), but there was one experience that was especially memorable and stands out from the rest – doing a tour and tasting at Argiolas Winery in Sardinia, a bit outside of Cagliari. Although I’ve gone on many wine tours, I felt like I actually learned about their specific techniques and how they differ from other wineries. And the tasting itself was just fabulous. My friend and I had one person talking us through the wines, accompanied by a bit of local food. All of the staff was so friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were so delicious, that we didn’t even realize until we had finished the last wine that we had taken so long our tasting had gone past the winery’s opening hours. Which really, is just a testament to the level of Italian hospitality we received.

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Craziest Hotel Check-in: Nessebar, Bulgaria

We’ve all been there. The crazy frustration of trying to find your hotel. It should be just around the corner. Or the GPS sends you one direction, but it just doesn’t like the correct route. Or in this case, sends you down a precarious gravel path. “No,” you think, “this can’t be right.” So you try an alternate route – which also turns out to be another gravel path. Finally you give up, and just park the corner in a random corner of the Bulgarian gravel road. And look up. And your friend says, “Hey, doesn’t that look like the picture of our hotel?”

End of story, right? If only… After confirmation from a nearby shop owner that we had indeed arrived at the correct destination, we walk into the building lobby. And there’s no reception. Hmmm….surely there must be staff somewhere, right? A quick pop to the salon downstairs finds it deserted. We call the phone number in the booking confirmation, and no reply. Then the waitress at the on-site restaurant is trying to be helpful, but speaks no English (and we speak no Bulgarian). Finally she directs us to one of the men sunbathing at the pool. My first thought is that it’s because he speaks English, but he actually turns out to be the building’s owner. “Great!” was my first – and misplaced – reaction. After studying the booking confirmation, the owner declares that there is no rental in his building under that description.

Ah, every frequent traveler’s nightmare. They gave away the last room, or the booking never existed in the first place. Images of curling up in the tiny car’s backseat for the night flash through my head, when the owner takes a moment to call the phone number we have on speakerphone. I catch a glance at his phone screen and realize that when he clicked “Send” a name popped up from his phone’s Contact List. As I wonder whether this is a good or bad sign, he quickly hangs up before someone has a chance to answer. He makes another call. This time it finally sounds promising, and I hear what sounds like “Italien” and I start gesturing saying, yes, I have an Italian phone number I used for my booking, it’s us. Does that mean we finally have a place to stay?? And yes, we have a room! He knows this person, and she is going to come and show us to our rooms. Imagine our relief when the room is just as expected, and even has a complimentary bottle of Bulgarian wine to greet us. As the door clicks behind her, out comes the joint, palpable, audible sigh. We’re finally checked in.

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Most People Visited in a Country I’ve Never Lived: 8 in Singapore

I visit friends in my travels often, and in fact, having a friend living in a foreign country is the best reason to get there for a visit! It’s great having a reason to explore a new, unexpected destination, and was how I picked several of my travel destinations this past year. Usually I travel to visit a single friend or family, with London as my usual exception, although most of my friends who live there I met in Milan. So it was quite random when I realized as I planned my November travel that I actually know quite a few people living in Singapore and there was never a better time to go.

There is the close Milan friend and previous around-the-corner neighbor who lives there with her husband and daughter, but may not be staying in Singapore much longer. The Singaporean college friend who I had seen relatively recently when she came to visit Milan during the World Expo last year, but whose days in Singapore are probably numbered as well. And then there’s the high school friend and her Singaporean husband and two children who only recently moved to Singapore. Several of these friends are now what I like to call 3-continent friends – people I’ve spent time with on three different continents. And for me it’s definitely notable to have so many different people from different stages of my life who just happen to all live in the same tiny island nation. While I didn’t know much about Singapore before visiting (other than having a ton of friends to visit), I became obsessed with the Singaporean style of breakfast and Singapore was one of my favorite destinations this year!

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Craziest Adventurous Things I Did:

Pemberton Climbing Trees (Australia) & Walking to Al Sawadi Island and Fort (Oman)

For me being adventurous doesn’t mean having no fear. Being adventurous is being confronted with something scary and/or dangerous, and then going outside of your comfort zone to do it anyway. There were two things in 2016 that really got my adrenaline pumping, both for being ostensibly dangerous, as well as me not really knowing what to expect ahead of time. First, was scaling the Pemberton climbing trees, which involved some incredibly tall trees and not much of a safety net. It was a bit terrifying, but also quite rewarding to reach the tops and take in the expansive views. Read more about the full experience in my post linked above and here.

The second pretty crazy thing I did was on my recent Oman trip with my sister. On the coast north of Muscat, there is a spot called Al Sawadi, with a nearby island and fort not too far off the beach. While there are boats you can pay to take you across, I had read something about being able to *walk* to the island during low tide. We arrived around 4pm and the water was looking quite low, but there was no one else walking across or anyone to ask. After a little bit of a walk when the water reached just up to knee level, we decided to go for it. This is only slightly complicated in Oman by the fact that it is a modest Muslim country where your shoulders and knees should be covered at all times in public. So you’re not just stripping down to your bikini and going for it. But venturing out into the unknown was great – the thrill and exhilaration of not knowing whether we’d be able to make it across, or if we did, how high the water level would rise before we reached the shore. In the end, my zip-off pants only got a little wet, and then we arrived and had the island entirely to ourselves! We hiked in our sport sandals to the top of the fort, took lots of pictures with the cell phones we were brave enough to carry for the journey, and had an even-lower tide for the walk back to where we had left the car, making it back across just as the sun set. An incredible and memorable experience, I’m reliving the excitement just typing about it.

Time Most Worth it to Trust a Stranger: Heading to the Cave at Wadi Khalid, Oman

I’m from New York, so it’s sort of second nature that when a stranger offers to help me out of the blue, my radar goes off and I become super skeptical of everything the person says and suggests. Perhaps it’s not the most open and loving way to live, but that is always my knee-jerk reaction: caution. Fortunately, the day exploring Wadi Khalid in Oman (a series of interconnected water pools and caves in the desert) came far enough into the week-long road trip that I already knew how hospitable Omanis were. Plus, they are so excited to see tourists – especially American ones – that they want you to have an amazing experience so you inspire others to visit when you go home.

As my sister and I were following the vague arrows pointing toward the Wadi’s famous cave, a man in traditional Omani dress fell into step beside us. He told us that he was heading to the cave as well, and as a local, knew the way quite well. My mind at this point was racing with possibilities, but we were just walking in that direction and were outside with plenty of other visitors. At one point I did inquire as to why he was so interested in showing us around, and he revealed that he was a police officer in Muscat and wanted to practice his English. It sounded legit, and again, we were not alone, but it was quite interesting crouching into a dark cave with no signs or directions, blindly following the instincts of a local who had been many times before. Our new Omani friend Said was a great guide, showing us the water source of the wadi, pointing out bats that were hanging from the ceiling just above our heads, and giving us the full experience of the cave. There’s no way my sister and I would have ventured that far alone, and it was just incredible to see the caverns and crevices inside.

Biggest Travel Injury: Stubbed Toe in Abu Dhabi

Anyone who knows me knows that I can be quite clumsy, so an injured toe as my biggest injury of the year is a major accomplishment. Interestingly enough, if I am doing a potentially dangerous activity like rock climbing or cliff diving, I’m quite attentive and tend to emerge unscathed. My biggest injuries ever? Both my broken collarbone and severely injured finger resulted from what was essentially me tripping over my own feet.

Stubbing my toe in Abu Dhabi doesn’t sound serious, but it was quite a wound. Basically, I was walking back to bed after a middle-of-the-night trip to the bathroom, and didn’t realize that one of the stylish chairs with metal legs reached out almost to the edge of the bed. I thought I would have cleared it by a mile, but instead I walked quite decisively forward and essentially sliced my second toe open. So it was more serious (and bloody) than your typical stubbed toe, and it hurt to walk for the next 10 days, as in it was painful taking e-v-e-r-y s-i-n-g-l-e s-t-e-p. But for a year of travel and adventure (and given my lifelong tendency to injure myself weirdly and quite seriously), not too bad at all.

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Travel First: Getting Put Up in a Hotel

Lost luggage? Yes, many times, sometimes for up to several days.

Missed a connecting flight? Of course, but usually with good, alternate options to still get there within a few hours.

Been on an overbooked flight offering vouchers? Plenty of times, but usually when I was in the US traveling for work and had to be somewhere by a certain time, so I’d never taken advantage.

Slept in an airport? Sure, most memorably at the Dallas airport in a snowstorm when I was trying to be there for the first flight back to New York for New Year’s Eve & at the Kuala Lumpur budget terminal (never again!)

Missing a connection and needing to stay in a hotel overnight? That had never happened to me before – until a week ago, so just under the wire to be part of my 2016 travel superlatives. I had just over an hour of transit time at London’s Heathrow Airport, which is cutting it quite close to begin with. Then, as we were lining up to board the bus that would take us to the plane in Milan, the snow started to fall. What?!? It almost never snows in Milan, because it’s usually not quite cold enough. And snow certainly had not been part of the forecast. When the captain announced that there was a long line to de-ice the plane and we would likely be delayed at least 30 minutes, I flagged over a flight attendant to ask about my connection. When he informed me that you need to scan through the transfer desk at Heathrow 35 minutes before your departure time to be allowed on the plane, I knew I was in trouble. In the US, they would likely send information up to the plane about the connecting flight, or at least the crew would be able to phone and request it. For this London connection, I had the sinking feeling that I would be out of luck, which was confirmed when we touched down an hour late.

By the time someone was available to help me at the re-booking desk, the best option was just to take the same early afternoon flight the following day. Spend an unexpected 24 hours in London, catching up with friends and soaking up the holiday atmosphere? If I must…

Most Times Crossing Paths with a Friend – and half the time accidentally!

It’s one thing to plan a lot of travel with a good friend, it’s quite another to have the one person you keep running into at unplanned moments in unexpected cities. Of the 6 times I’ve crossed paths with this one particular friend, our run-ins have spanned 4 cities on 2 continents – and only 2 were arranged in advance! We had planned to be in Bucharest, Romania (where she is from) over the same weekend in early June so she could show me around and we could hang out. Then a few weeks beforehand when her schedule was too busy on a business trip to Milan, a work dinner fell through and she messaged me last minute so we met up for a meal. In August when I was in New York, she messaged me about a last-minute work trip that had also brought her to the city, so we had another unplanned meal together. And then, the very next night on the way to meet another friend, I walked into another restaurant in a completely different part of town. And the first person I see? This same friend! Our 5^th meeting of the year was arranged in advance, when I came to London to see the American football (NFL) game with my home team playing. And then on my recent missed connection in London, I messaged this friend to see if she was possibly around. It turned out that about an hour after my message she was actually coming to the same terminal of Heathrow Airport where I was stranded! So we met up for a coffee, and our last in a string of prolific, unexpected run-ins throughout 2016.

What were the stand-out moments of your 2016 travel??

Around Town

Piazza Vecchia

Off the Beaten Path

Convent of San Francisco

Venetian Walls

Best Bites

Città Alta

Città Bassa

Getting There

Arriving in Bergamo

Going up to the Città Alta

Extra Stuff You’re Allowed to Carry On

Jacket

Clothing Layers

Neck Pillow

Umbrella

Camera/Camera Bag

Hat

Duty Free Purchases

Merchandise purchased at airport

Reading Material

Infant Accessories

Medical Devices

Carry-On Baggage Policies from Around the World

North American carrier

South American carrier

European carrier

Middle Eastern carrier

Asian carrier

Getting from Milan to Lake Como

From Malpensa Airport (MXP) by Car

From Milan by Car

Milan to Lake Como Day Trip by Train

Doing a Como Tour

What to Do in Lake Como for a Day

Lake Como

Boat Tour

Porta Torre and Old City Walls

Oldest House in Como

Shopping

Off the Beaten Path on a Milan to Lake Como Day Trip

Where to Eat with One Day in Lake Como

More About Gelato in Italy

The Best Gelato in Italy – by City

Bergamo

Bologna

Como

Florence

Mantua

Milan

Rome

San Gimignano

Venice

Verona

Celebrating July 4th Abroad in Perth, Australia

Celebrating July 4th Abroad over a Road Trip in France

Celebrating July 4th Abroad in Milan, Italy

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Perth, Australia

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad over a Road Trip in France

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Milan, Italy