Top Picks for Churches, Art, and Amazing Views in Florence

September 14, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

There is no shortage of things to do on a visit to Florence, however there is so much to do it can be quite overwhelming. I’ve spent many different trips visiting the city over the past 3 years, and have been to quite a lot of the sights.

Here are my favorite picks for the city, depending on where your interests lie:

Incredible Art

Galleria dell’Accademia

There is a vast and lovely collection here, but let’s be real, you come for one thing: the original statue of David by Michelangelo. Due to the crowds, it is best to come with the Firenze Card or a timed ticket early in the morning. Although there is a quite good David replica in the Piazza della Signoria, nothing compares to the raw beauty and craftsmanship of the original.

TIP! Only buy a timed ticket from the official website linked above, otherwise you will be paying a huge markup. You can buy online up until the day before, but it’s best to do this as far in advance as possible.

TIP! Even if you don’t have the Firenze Card or managed to reserve for a time slot, you can minimize waiting time by coming first thing in the morning. On my last visit, I was in the non-reserved line (far right if you’re facing the entrance) by 8:05am and was inside by 8:30am.

Palazzo Vecchio

This is my favorite of the art museums in Florence, because it has a variety of different types of art and a lot of period rooms with the furniture and paintings in place. The Palazzo Vecchio also houses my favorite museum room, the Hall of Geographical Maps, built at the request of Cosimo de Medici and including a hidden door to a secret passage – see if you can spot it! The Palazzo Vecchio also has ruins underneath and a tower you can ascend for views of the city (see “Towers to Climb” section below). Even if you don’t have the Firenze Card, the ticket office does not usually have a line.

Uffizi Gallery

This is possibly the most famous art museum in Florence with its renowned art collection and huge queues. While there is no individual piece of art that I saw that sticks in my mind, I do remember being wowed by the beauty. The impressive collection will have you swooning with the rest of the visitors. The crowds are massive, and the first non-Italian to head up the Uffizi may have even succeeded in shaking things up by the time you visit.

TIP! The lines are almost always long to enter, so I strongly recommend coming with the Firenze Card or buying a timed ticket in advance from the link above (which is the official link, and saves you the huge markup of private tour providers).

Churches of Note

Duomo (cathedral)

Florence’s Duomo is iconic with its different colors of marble adorning the outside and the red-tiled dome visible from many vistas in Florence. Definitely a must-visit spot for Florence, although go early to avoid a long wait – even if you have the Firenze Card. You can climb the dome as well as the bell tower (see “Towers to Climb” section below).

TIP! The Firenze Card won’t get you expedited entrance to the cathedral itself, so if the line is massive, you can either enter more quickly by hiring one of the tour guides milling around or use your Firenze Card to climb to the Cupola where you can expedited entry and check out the inside of the Duomo during your ascent which takes you inside (see “Towers to Climb” section below).

San Marco

This church close to the Galleria dell’Accademia is nice, but the convent turned museum is the real highlight. This is a nice spot to visit because there is not much of a line and it is also on the Firenze Card. There are several rooms around a courtyard with lovely artworks and sculpture, plus the rooms of the convent on the floor above which all have wall murals and some of which peer down into the older ruins underneath.

Santa Croce

This is a lovely basilica, although due to its location close to other attractions in the historical center, it is often crowded with tour groups. There is a lot more to see than you’d expect once you get inside, so plan enough time for your visit unless you’re on the Firenze Card and just popping in for quick look.

Santa Maria Novella

Many visitors pass by the church of Santa Maria Novella, as it is opposite the main train station that bears its name, but far fewer take the time to visit. Which is a shame, because this has probably been my biggest surprise in my time in Florence. I went on my second trip to the city, because I had a Firenze Card that was still valid and some time to kill before catching my train back to Milan (and am so glad I did). The highlight for me were the giant frescoes around the inner courtyard.

Around Town

Piazza della Signoria

A piazza is just a plaza or open square, but the stunning thing about Florence is the incredible artwork and sculptures you discover. Piazza della Signoria is probably the most famous Florentine piazza, as it is bordered by the Palazzo Vecchio and Uffizi Gallery (see “Incredible Art” above). In the piazza itself, are statues of the god Neptune and Cosimo de’ Medici, a replica of Michelangelo’s David statue (where the original once stood), and often rotating works that are part of temporary art exhibitions.

Loggia dei Lanzi

This is an elevated platform also bordering the Piazza della Signoria, with a number of lovely sculptures. It is covered and has seating, so is also a good spot to sit and rest, or to duck out of a sudden rainstorm.

Piazza della Repubblica

This is another plaza you are likely to happen upon as you stroll the city, which you’ll recognize by its dramatic archway and the historical carousel on the square itself.

Piazza del Mercato Nuovo

Between the Piazza della Repubblica and the Ponte Vecchio, you’ll come across the “new market” with vendors predominantly selling the leather products Tuscany is known for producing.

Ponte Vecchio

Literally meaning old bridge, the Ponte Vecchio distinguishes itself from the many other bridges crossing the Arno river since it is the only one with buildings. Today the shops are jewelry merchants, and there are nice views of the river from the break between shops in the center of the bridge. It looks so much like the neighboring streets when you approach that you may not even realize that you’ve crossed onto the bridge.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

Off the Beaten Path

Galileo museum

This was an exciting discovery that is not off the beaten path geographically (it’s very close to the Uffizi Gallery), but is far less visited than other sights. There is a vast collection of scientific instruments through the ages and some great, interactive displays. The Galileo museum can also be a nice shift if you’ve been seeing lots of art all day, and is conveniently part of the Firenze Card.

Mercato Centrale

It took me a few visits to Florence to come to the central market for the first time. It is in a historical building that has been revived with different food stalls representing many types of Italian cuisine, and also selling fresh produce like any other market. It is fun just to walk around and take in the sights and smells, as well as stopping for a bite.

Great Synagogue and Jewish museum

The museum is inside the synagogue itself, and is also on the Firenze Card. Built in the late 1800s, there is a lot of detail in the artwork and architecture of the structure, and the museum provides interesting insights into the Jewish history of the area.

TIP! Be aware that the synagogue is closed on Saturdays as well as other Jewish holidays throughout the year. Check out the link above for a full list of closure dates so you can plan your visit accordingly.

Amazing Views

Boboli Gardens

The gardens themselves are nice to visit, and happen to be connected to the Palazzo Pitti, which houses a series of smaller museums with different types of collections. As you ascend the many terraces of the gardens and wander off to the side paths, you’ll get a variety of views of Florence. This is only during the day though, as the gardens shut in the early evening well before sunset. On your way out of the gardens, veer to the right as you go downhill to check out some of the grotto areas with unique decorations.

Fort Belvedere

The fort is usually not too crowded, is near the top of the Boboli Gardens, and has some quintessential views of Florence. While this is an uncrowded spot that many Italians visit to take in the sunset, note that there is a closing time and you may not catch the end of sunset or be able to linger afterward. The views are spectacular, though.

Piazzale Michaelangelo

This is by far the most popular (and crowded) of the options for catching amazing views of Florence, but is especially popular for catching a broad view of sunset over the city. Do note that you will not be alone, and it will not be quiet. When I’ve gone to watch sunset, there is basically a mass migration of tourists from the river heading the same way. At the top, it is a mix of serious photographers, people selling selfie sticks, and live bands playing for money. It’s still popular though, because it’s still an incredible view and you can linger as long as you like.

San Miniato al Monte

This is the quietest of spots, in part because it is the hardest to get to. You can get there on foot with a longer uphill walk than Piazzale Michelangelo, or arrive by bus or car. I have only been here in the morning, but can attest to great views of the city that would perfect for sunset as well. The church is also worth visiting, as one of the oldest in the area and featuring different artwork from the other churches you’ll visit in town.

Towers to Climb (aka More Amazing Views)

Campanile (bell tower of Duomo complex)

The bell tower tends to have a shorter line to enter and climb, but it’s still best to come first thing in the morning for visiting all of the parts of the Duomo. The benefit of climbing the Campanile (other than a shorter wait) is that you can get a close up view and take excellent pictures of the dome.

Duomo cupola (dome)

The dome allows a close up view of the ceiling on the inside of the cathedral along the way, so if the line to enter the Duomo is long, this can be a quicker way to gain entrance to see the cathedral, provided you have the Firenze Card. It also has panoramic views of the city as you walk around the bottom of the dome and peer in all directions.

Palazzo Vecchio tower

Incuded on the Firenze Card or available as part of the several combination tickets for the Palazzo Vecchio, this tower is the one I would recommend if you only climb one tower in Florence. It is far less crowded than the two climbing spots in the Duomo complex and since you are a bit away from the Duomo, you can see the cathedral in your pictures. In fact, this is the spot where my picture in the “About Me” section on the website sidebar comes from!

Normally I would have a “Best Bites” section as part of a city overview, however there is so much to do and so many great places to eat in Florence that I’ve split it into two separate posts. Check out the links below for my top picks for restaurants, gelato, and aperitivo spots to frequent in Florence in between all of the sightseeing.

What is your favorite sight to visit in Florence? And if you still haven’t been, which attraction is the biggest draw for you?

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Most Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Florence

September 16, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Florence is becoming a more an more popular tourist destination with each passing year. With the richness of the art there, and the flavorful Tuscan food that will have you savoring your every meal, it is not coming off tourist itineraries any time soon. In recent years, it has become even more popular, especially as the Euro has become more affordable for travelers from outside of Europe.

Over my nearly three years living in Italy, I’ve probably been to Florence around ten different times, most recently last week. Fortunately for me it is a leisurely three-hour drive from Milan or 1 hour 40 minutes on the high-speed train. And since many visitors to Italy have this as a must-see destination, I’ve mostly gone with family and friends who come to visit Milan and pass through Florence at some point as well – the food is so good, I’m always up for a trip.

Why visit?

You probably don’t need any convincing if you’re still reading, but there are some lovely highlights in Florence that make it such a memorable destination. There is a wealth of incredible art in the many churches and galleries throughout the city, and the cuisine is quite memorable. The highlights from my many visits are:

the Duomo (the main cathedral) in stunning white, reddish pink, and green marble with its iconic dome
the original David statue by Michaelangelo in the Galleria dell’Accademia
Ponte Vecchio, the old pedestrian bridge across the Arno River
many towers and hills with expansive views of the city
the food and wine – Tuscany is widely considered one of the best places to eat in Italy

When is tourist season?

Well, I was there in mid-March this year, and it was already crowded. For 2016, I would say that high tourist season will be from March through October, with the very peak season from May until August. As with all travel, you’ll need to balance wanting to explore the city in nice weather and how many other people you’ll be sharing the experience with.

How much time is needed to experience Florence?

I would say within the city itself, plan to spend 2-3 days, depending on how much you like art or how much (leather) shopping you want to do. If you’re planning to take day trips to other cities in Tuscany or wine regions nearby (Pisa, Chianti, Montalcino, Montepulciano, San Gimmignano, and more), plan for additional time. And be aware that many tourist attractions are closed on Mondays.

What are some ways to minimize time waiting in line and maximize time seeing the sights?

The main way to avoid the queues is to purchase the Firenze Card (Firenze is Florence’s name in Italian). It costs a whopping 72 Euros, but if you plan to see a lot of sights in a limited amount of time, it is a worthy investment. At most sights, you get an expedited line for entry, meaning more time exploring. It also means that you will have the ability to pop in briefly to sights you wouldn’t have otherwise seen, because it is at no additional cost to take a peek. Just be aware that you only get 1 entry to each location, so you can’t just split up a visit to the Uffizi Gallery over two days (or you can, but you’ll have to wait and pay to get in after your one visit on the Card).

If you do not get the Firenze Card, you can still make a few individual reservations to cover the sights that typically have the longest waits. Be sure to book these on the official websites, unless you want a tour included at (an often exorbitant) additional cost. The main places in Florence you’ll want to reserve in advance are the Galleria dell’Accademia, where the original David statue is & the Uffizi Gallery, an incredibly large collection of art rivalling the greatest art museums of the world. The official website to reserve for either site is here.

TIP! Book tickets for a particular time slot in advance if you can. Even if many days look like they have availability, you may be dismayed to find that if you wait until the last minute there is only 1 ticket left in a single timeslot so the day is not “sold out” per se, however your group will not be able to go.

TIP! Like with most tourist destinations, the best time to visit with minimal crowds is first thing in the morning. An early arrival is especially important for visits to the Duomo (doubly so if you’re visiting outside of the Firenze Card), as the line to enter can sometimes snake along the whole length of the piazza.

Why are there both red and blue/black street numbers? (aka: Why can’t I find my hotel?)

It always takes me a little bit to remember this each time I return to Florence and am looking for a specific address – there are two street numbering systems, one in red and one in blue. When you see an address in a guidebook or on your phone’s map, a lot of times it will say 25red or 25/R to indicate where you should be looking. The tricky part is that the actual numbers often do not correspond at all. So on one block you might have 25, 27, 29. and 31 in red numbers. And then randomly interspersed between them, 62, 64, 66, and 68 in black (red is for businesses, blue or black numbering is for private residences – although if your hotel is a single floor in a larger building it may have a blue/black number, so search carefully before concluding you’re lost).

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

Why is there a bottle of wine already on my table when I go to a restaurant?

No, this is not just for decoration! While there will likely also be a formal wine list with bottles from particular wineries, many restaurants in Florence have a respectable house wine often in a wide bottomed bottle with a thin woven basket around the lower half. You can drink as much as you like, and they will eyeball how much is left at the end of the meal, and charge you accordingly. With this kind of hospitality you’ll never want to leave =)

What were the pressing questions on your mind when you visited Florence? Or are you planning a visit and have other questions I can help answer? Let me know in the Comments below.

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Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

December 20, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Europe overall is quite festive for the holidays, especially with the prevalence of Christmas markets, each with a different flavor depending on the country you’re in. I’ve already written about how to enjoy Milan for the holidays, covering the concerts and markets and special events that extend from early December into January. But of course, you’ll need plenty of snacks and drinks to keep you going through the hours on your feet in the cold, winter air as you do your holiday shopping.

There is plenty of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food that is part of everyday Milanese cuisine, from polenta to meat stews to risotto. But for me, it’s the hot beverages and seasonal desserts of Milan and its outdoor markets that really nurture the soul at holiday time. Here are the foods and drinks I always seek out to get into the holiday spirit:

Vin Brulé

This is what the Italians call mulled wine, which I always found interesting because while the name sounds French, the French actually refer to it as vin chaud (hot wine). In any case, the best spot to find vin brulé is at one of Milan’s many holiday markets, where the hot wine will have had time to steep in the many spices that give it such a holiday aroma. There is no shortage of stands selling vin brulé, so follow your nose.

Roasted Chestnuts

Growing up in America and listening to songs about “chestnuts roasting on an open fire,” it was one of those lyrics that just sounded good. Fast forward to living in Milan – people really do roast chestnuts, and this is one of the most common street vendors you’ll see at holiday time pretty much everywhere, and especially at any outdoor Christmas market. It is such a smoky, nutty taste of winter, and is a product you can’t usually find at other times of year, so take advantage while you can.

Cioccolata Calda

Hot chocolate in Milan is closer to a solid than a liquid, with actual chocolate melted into a deliciously thick concoction usually “eaten” with a spoon and occasionally sipped. It’s a bit heavier than having a cup of vin brulé, but is a very satisfying way to warm you up and fulfill your craving for something sweet. Cioccolata calda is widely available at holiday markets, and also can be found at nearly every coffee bar. If you don’t see a sign advertising it, ask – they probably have it.

Panettone/Pandoro

Panettone is a Milanese holiday dessert that you only see in December and early January. It’s like a much airier version of a fruitcake, with a soft, wispy, yeasty dough dotted with canditi – candied pieces of fruit. If you’re like me and don’t like the canditi, you can always opt for the Northern Italian cousin pandoro, which is minus the fruit and raisins.

A slice or whole loaf of panettone is widely available at any of the holiday markets, but ask any Milanese and they’ll tell you that the best version you’ll ever eat comes from Pasticcieria Marchesi. (It was the delectable Marchesi version that was happily devoured at the last holiday party I hosted, pictured above.) When you buy it whole, it comes with a packet of powdered sugar and a plastic bag so you can shake it yourself and coat the panettone or pandoro so it’s ready for serving.

Gelato

Hear me out on this one. Gelato is made with seasonal ingredients, so you can get some excellent ones with holiday flavor profiles. I find after a minute or two inside a well-heated gelateria I am all ready to savor some winter concoctions, cold as they may be. Pictured here is my favorite winter flavor: zucca (or squash/pumpkin) from Milan’s Ciacco gelateria.

What foods get you into the holiday state of mind? Are there any other holiday treats you’ve enjoyed in Milan that I should add to my list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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How to Enjoy Milan for the Holidays

December 6, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

The first week of December in Milan is essentially the start of the Christmas season. The Feast of Saint Ambrose, Milan’s patron saint, is a public holiday on December 7^th, followed by the national holiday for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception the very next day. And then the Christmas season extends until Epiphany, which doesn’t take place until January 6^th.

In a country where nearly 90% of the population is not just Christian, but Catholic, obviously these church holidays throughout Italy shape the month of December and into the new year. And as the weather chills, the smell of roasting chestnuts reaches you as you stroll down the central streets and there are stands selling a steaming cup of mulled wine, or vin brulee. Signs that it is time to get into the holiday spirit!

Here are some special events to experience in Milan during the holiday season:

Christmas Markets

The big square, or piazza, in front of Milan’s Duomo (the main cathedral) is filled with row after row of vendors selling Christmas-related items starting at the beginning of December, as are the public gardens, or Giardini Pubblici. A variety of crafts and foods are on sale to help you find gifts for the holidays, but there are also food items for immediate consumption to help keep your energy up as you shop. Christmas markets in Europe are a destination unto themselves!

L’Artigiano in Fiera

Loosely meaning artisanal goods in a festival or fair, this is hands-down the favorite market I’ve been to in Europe. The first thing to know is that it is massive, beyond what you could imagine if you’ve never been to a large-scale convention on the continent. It completely takes over Milan’s newer convention center, which is so large that its footprint lies at the very end of the red metro line as it could not be accommodated in the city. And L’Artigiano in Fiera features handmade goods, crafts, furniture, scarves, trinkets, you-name-it from all over the world.

Giant convention halls are devoted to a single continent or region, with stalls as far as the eye can see, and of course there are tons of food stalls and restaurants intermixed, with the best examples of Italian and ethnic foods you could hope for. Giant baguette? Check. A black truffle for €10? Check. A fresh round of Tête de Moine cheese from Switzerland? Check. Candied ginger from Asia? Check. It’s a wonderland for the serious foodie, and boasts the best selection of holiday gift options you may ever come across. It runs during the first two weekends in December, including the weekdays in between, which will be the far less crowded times to visit.

Feast of Saint Ambrose & Oh Bej! Oh Bej! Market

Not only is this the local Milan holiday for the city’s patron saint with associated religious celebrations, but there is also a giant market called Oh Bej! Oh Bej! that takes place in and around the Sforza Castle from December 7^th (the Feast day) through the following Sunday. The curved road around the castle becomes pedestrian-only and fills with locals doing holiday shopping or simply coming to eat their way through the predominantly Italian snacks and street food available at the many stands. Even if you’re not looking for anything particular, there is such a variety of goods, from artwork to kitchenware to fresh spices to jewelry that even without making a purchase you’ll be entertained for several hours.

Babbo Running

Babbo is the name affectionately given by the Italian to the man you may know better as Santa Claus. So yes, Babbo Running is just as fun to watch as you might imagine. Taking place in mid-late December, this run to benefit charity usually has its course around the same Sforza Castle area that hosts the Oh Bej! Oh Bej! market described above. And the runners? All dressed in Santa costumes!

Christmas Midnight Mass at the Duomo

Although many Milanesi will be on vacation over the holidays, those who remain in the city may opt for attending midnight mass at the iconic Gothic cathedral, the Duomo. If you plan to attend, be sure to arrive when the doors open at 10:30pm to secure a seat. The mass typically begins at 11:30pm on Christmas Eve, December 24^th.

New Year’s Eve Concert in Piazza Duomo

While there are New Year’s Eve events all over town, one of the popular outdoor events is the several-hours long free concert in the giant square in front of the Duomo cathedral, leading up to the countdown at midnight. It’s also totally legal to have open bottles of alcohol with you on the street, which many people celebrating will bring along (do note however, that if you have any glass bottles you’ll need to stay outside the barricade – where you can still hear and enjoy the concert, of course).

TIP! If you spend New Year’s Eve in Milan, watch out for the people setting off fireworks in the streets if you’re doing any walking between parties or back at the end of the night.

And while you’re in Milan for the holidays…

Traditional Food & Drink

In addition to the mulled wine (vin brulee) and roasted chestnuts available from street vendors throughout the city, there is a typical Milanese holiday dessert that is not to be missed – panettone. Panettone is a large, airy, yellow bread studded with candied fruit. Markets will sometimes have them in miniature size, or you can even find panettone from the large loaf available by the slice. And if you’d like the version without the candied pieces inside, just ask for Pandoro.

What local traditions help you to get into the holiday spirit? If you’ve been to Milan for the holidays, anything else I should have recommended? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Hidden Gem: The Tile Museum in Palermo, Sicily

September 7, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

“I’m sorry, we’re not doing any tours today.”

As a visitor intent on seeing a particular sight, this can be one of the most disconcerting messages you hear in your travels. But of course it is one that comes up every now and again, and is simply part of the whole travel experience, which does not always work out perfectly.

Visiting the Palermo Tile Museum was a complete fluke. My friend Isabel and I left it until the last day of our long weekend in this Sicilian city to even attempt to visit for the first time. We had a bunch of hours to enjoy Palermo before catching our return flight to Milan in the afternoon, and a few last things to see.

And even seeking out the Tile Museum at all was somewhat random, as it didn’t come up in most of my pre-trip research – although where I found any information, it received rave reviews.

So this Monday morning, we walk up to the street address for the museum entrance and are faced with what looks like your standard Italian apartment building, with a row of labeled buzzers.

At first, we think that surely we’re in the wrong place. There is no prominent sign labeling any type of museum, and certainly no open entrances to welcome us in.

Only after walking up and down the block a few times do we realize that the address is in fact correct, and that one of the buzzers, if you peer closely, lists the museum and displays a phone number.

I call the cell phone number indicated, and find out that a reservation is needed. At this point, I’m cautiously optimistic, and hoping that since Isabel and I speak both English and Italian, surely there will be a tour we can join in one of those languages.

Unfortunately there is no tour planned until after our flight back to Milan – that disappointing message of “I’m sorry, we’re not doing any tours today.” So I say a polite thank you, relay the disappointing news to Isabel, and we start strolling in the direction of Botanical Garden as a backup plan.

This is when we have what I’m starting to think of more and more as one of those magical Italian moments.

My phone rings, and the number looks vaguely familiar. It is the same gentleman calling back, offering us a tour in Italian for just the two of us. It sounds cliché, but my heart leapt with the news after the disappointment of hearing that a tour would not be possible. We were getting to see this mystery of a place!

As you can see in the photo below, entering this apartment really is just like any other residential building:

We find out at the start of the tour with our passionate, knowledgeable guide that this is because one of the most impressive tile collections in the world was part of someone’s private collection.

The apartment that houses the museum is called the Stanze al Genio, the rooms of the genius? Or genie? It is not large, but the tile collection is so enormous that it feels like every available space is dedicated to displaying these lovely items.

Tiles in the south of Italy are commonly seen in hues of blue, yellow, and green, but the variety of this collection goes well beyond that. Colorful hues, interesting designs, and even some tiles with images like those you’ll find at the ruins of Pompeii, outside Naples:

And there’s nothing better than a tour guide who is excited about the collection to share interesting tidbits and answer your questions with enthusiasm.

I felt incredibly fortunate to have made it inside the doors of this museum at all. And while not large, the museum contained one of the most unique and well-curated collections that I’ve been privileged to visit in my travels.

I think for both me and Isabel, it was one of the most memorable moments of our weekend trip. And a spot I recommend to anyone visiting Palermo!

Certainly, we were very lucky on the day we visited, but if you want to visit the Stanze al Genio, I wouldn’t count on winging it, here’s the right way to visit:

Stanze al Genio

Visits are available 7 days a week, by appointment

E-mail or call *in advance* to schedule:

stanzealgenio@yahoo.it

English: +39 380 367 3773

Italiano: +39 340 097 1561

The website is currently under construction, but check the link above for the most updated information.

There’s also a Bed & Breakfast on the property!

I didn’t stay here, but if you are interested in having these spaces be your accommodations in Palermo (or just want to check out photos of more beautiful tiles!), check out their site here.

Happy travels!

Where was the last hidden gem you discovered? Any other spots you loved in Palermo? Let me know in the Comments!

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How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

October 11, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

After my first year living in Italy, I realized that I had already been to 3 different truffle festivals in 3 different regions: Alba, Acqualagna, and Norcia. Okay, so I really enjoy truffles and was very fortunate to have the opportunity to visit so many festivals dedicated to them. But I was also surprised to realize how many weeks (or at least weekends) these festivals last, and how many seasons boast truffle festivals, giving you several opportunities to plan a visit.

Part of that has to do with the fact that there are many varietals of truffle, even beyond the designations of white and black. The “precious” white truffle is principally found in Alba and Acqualagna, while the black truffle comes in many varieties, most commonly the black summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) and black winter truffle (Tuber melanosporum). I only mention the scientific names here because this is how you will sometimes see truffles listed on a menu to distinguish between the different varieties. In any case, the many different varieties of truffle mean that they are harvested at different times of year in different regions of Italy, so even if you’re planning a winter visit, getting fresh truffles is a possibility if you plan your itinerary with truffle areas in mind.

Alba (Piedmont region)

early October – late November, held over 8 weekends

The “Fiera del Tartufo” in Alba (west of Milan) is probably the most famous, and is the truffle festival where you will encounter the most foreigners and hear the most English being spoken. It is also many visitors’ first Italian destination for a truffle festival due to its location in the region of Piedmont, known for many of its excellent wine varietals – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, and Moscato d’Asti, to name a few – as well as for the outstanding restaurants in the region. The main vendors are located inside a building with paid entry that can get quite crowded and hard to walk through as the day progresses.

TIP! Although they sell a wine-tasting option with your admission, there are many wine vendors throughout where you can taste for free, so unless you want to taste a lot of top-shelf options from wineries not present, stick to the basic admission price.

Acqualagna (Le Marche region)

late October – early November, held over 3 weekends

Much less well-known, although the white truffle found in this coastal region east of Tuscany is (scientifically) identical to the more famous white truffle of Alba. The region of Le Marche is also one of the regions less visited by foreign tourists, so you will encounter far more locals and hear a lot more Italian being spoken here. There is an indoor component to Acqualagna, but many stands located outside in the piazzas and streets of the town, so I found it to be more spread out and less crowded in any one area.

Norcia (Umbria region)

late February – early March, held over 2 weekends

Called Nero Norcia, or “black Norcia,” the truffle festival in Norcia is different from the other two I’ve mentioned because it is dedicated to a black truffle instead of the white one. While the white one is more expensive and delicate (and rare), the black truffle can be a more versatile culinary ingredient for its ability to maintain its aroma with exposure to heat, like being tossed with butter and fresh pasta. And since this is a relatively short festival in the midst of winter, it’s a very different (bundled-up) experience wandering the outside stalls and tasting as you go.

TIP! For all of the truffle festivals above, there are many products that you can buy from charcuterie to cheese to bottles of wine to all of the truffle-centric products. Bring along a backpack or cart of some sort to help carry all of your purchases.

And certainly the three truffle festivals I’ve personally attended don’t even scratch the surface of what you can find around Italy. Above is a map indicating all of the locales in Italy that are known for truffles. Seemingly everywhere! I really had no idea until living here, and scratching the surface of this wonderful fungus.

Wherever you decide to go, here are my top tips to make the most of your Italian Truffle Festival experience:

Plan, plan, plan.

If you are visiting a town or the surrounding region when the local truffle festival is taking place, you will be there along with the locals and other tourists who are all trying to make the most of the weekend. Accommodations, winery tours, and restaurant reservations can fill up fast, so if there are specific places you want to experience, it’s worth the effort to plan in advance.

Drive.

Many truffle festivals are accessible by Italy’s excellent train system, however there are so many perks to arriving by car. Not only does it give you the flexibility of any time you take a road trip, but there are a lot of nearby towns, wineries, and restaurants most easily reached in a vehicle. Prepare to drive around Italy with my Tips for Road Tripping in Europe.

Stay overnight in a town nearby, but not the one actually hosting the truffle festival. Or on the outskirts of town.

With all of the vendors and visitors for the truffle festival itself, the host town can become quite chaotic, especially in the center of town. Plus, many streets will be blocked off so travel by car can be difficult and confusing. I find that it’s best to stay on the outskirts of town where it’s not to far to arrive at the festival by foot, or to stay in a nearby town, giving you another area to explore in the region.

Attend during carnival time or special cultural performances.

Although the festival is already a special weekend experience, there is typically a schedule of special events that take place throughout from Alba’s famous donkey race to evening carnivals to cultural performances in period costume. Even if you don’t plan ahead you may stumble upon one of the special events, but these performances are also worth seeking out as you plan your trip.

Take advantage of weekdays before and after festival if you can.

Like with Oktoberfest and other festivals around Europe, weekends are the most crowded time as the locals come to enjoy the festivities outside of the work week. To have a less-crowded experience at wineries and restaurants nearby, plan some of your time in the region to be during weekdays.

Taste first, then buy truffle products.

Yes, truffles are an amazing product, however not all truffle products are created equal. Although truffle spreads make all look the same at the different vendors, you really need to taste them all to see which one best suits your particular taste (and only buy from vendors that give you the opportunity to sample their products). My favorite truffle products to seek out: a black truffle and mushroom spread usually called tartufotto and semi-soft cheeses with shaved pieces of truffle inside.

Buy a truffle!

There are many great ways to eat a fresh truffle, so be sure to have access to a kitchen either at the festival, or in the day or two after. And it is worth investing in a truffle shaver, as even the most intricate knife-work is not quite the same as the thin, even slices of truffle you can get with the proper tool. Truffle shavings are great with scrambled eggs, fresh pasta, and over mountain cheese roasted in the oven.

Taste and buy wine.

Okay, you’re attending a truffle festival, but there will be no shortage of wine for tasting and buying. And since you’re already planning a home-cooked meal to accompany the fresh truffle you purchased, buy some regional wine to accompany it. Wine also makes a great souvenir and if it’s just a few bottles, can be easily transported home in your luggage.

Eat at the food stands on site.

All truffle festivals have food stands on site with many truffle-enhanced dishes to sample. They often come in relatively small portions, so it’s fun and delicious to try plates from many different vendors as you explore the festival.

Go on a truffle hunt.

Going on a truffle hunt had been on my bucket list ever since I lived in Perth, since Western Australia is also known for its truffles. While I didn’t make it during my time there, I did get to experience a truffle hunt one year attending the Alba truffle festival with friends. Not only did I learn a lot about truffles, it was fun trekking through the woods with the truffle-hunting dog, and lovely to sit down and have truffle enhanced dishes at the end of the hunt.

Have you been to an Italian truffle festival? Or one in another country? What was the highlight of your experience?

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Best Bites: Where to Eat in Rome

August 17, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Rome is a feast for the senses. The iconic sights, the sounds of the city, and the feel of the cobblestone under your feet as you stroll. And yes, of course, all of that delicious food.

You might sense a great restaurant first by the enticing aroma wafting toward you as you happen past. Or perhaps spying that gelateria with a line snaking out the door on a weekday afternoon.

Although I did a fair bit of planning before all of my trips to Rome, in the end it was the combination of my research, geography, and my senses telling me the signals were right that led to my favorite spots and my most delicious meals.

Sometimes I was at a museum or doing some sightseeing, then found a nearby gem. Other times I trekked across town to sample the food of a particular restaurant, and then got lost exploring the nearby neighborhood. All wonderful ways to really explore the wonders a city like Rome has to offer.

Read on for the results of my culinary wanderings and the delicious bites I enjoyed along the way.

Top Restaurant Picks

Al Vecchio Galeone

I went when I stayed at a guesthouse nearby, and the “Old Galleon” was quite the seafood gem out of the heart of the city. I dined here solo and the staff were nothing but welcoming, and the food was Italian comfort food. There is definitely a relaxed vibe with the décor and friendliness, and lots of families were enjoying communal meals here as a place out where you can still get a pretty traditional home-cooked meal out of the house.

C’è pasta e pasta

This is probably the most casual spot on my list, with food served cafeteria style. It’s piled high on your plate, heated up for you, then offered on a plastic cafeteria tray. There are an array of dishes coming from the 2,000+ year-old Roman Jewish culinary traditions, and this was what I came to sample. And it was delicious! Just ask the helpful staff to point you in the direction of the traditional options being offered that day, and it’s all certified kosher. And even though it’s cafeteria style, this is Italy after all, so enjoy your meal with a glass of wine.

Cesare al Casaletto

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This is the place to go for slightly upscale Roman cuisine, with the price and quality to match. Conveniently located at the end of a tram line from central Rome, you’ll savor impeccable service and well-executed dishes, although for me as a solo traveler it was a bit formal compared to the places I usually prefer.

Ditirambo

This gem wasn’t on any list, but a quaint spot I stumbled upon on a centrally located pedestrian side street. Ask for what dishes are best that day, and you’ll be reward with beautifully presented and delicious food. Don’t miss the biscottini on offer at the end of the meal.

Osteria Bonelli

This spot is wayyyyy off the beaten path for most tourists to Rome, but was hands-down my favorite meal in the city. Although I trekked quite a bit to eat here, I was rewarded with exploring a neighborhood on foot, and a prime viewing position by a quite intact section of the Aurelian wall around Rome. Plan an extended time to fit Osteria Bonelli into your itinerary, but it will be worth it for the down home traditional cooking that you order off the hand-written menu on a chalkboard – and a taste of what it’s like to experience Italy like a local.

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TIP! Reserve a table in advance so you’re not disappointed when you arrive. It may be far away from most tourists, but this place seems like it’s always packed!

Pizzarium Bonci

Roman pizza may not be the image of pizza that first comes to mind. Most people conjure up the familiar round Neapolitan concoction, while Roman pizza is made in rectangular slabs. The good news? Unlike having to pick a single flavor for a round pizza all to yourself, you can mix and match different flavors, directing them behind the counter to cut each section in the size you’d like. This was my last stop before the train back to Milan, so I loaded up on several flavors I enjoyed en route and once I arrived, and they were all incredible.

TIP! Although I think that Roman pizza is best enjoyed in Rome, Pizzarium actually just opened an American outpost in Chicago this week for my American readers!

Trattoria del Gato Bianco

It’s central, and it’s some high-quality traditional Italian cuisine. There are lots of dishes to sample local Roman specialties, but really anything you order will be delicious. One of the better authentic options close to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and in the case of me and my sister, served by a welcoming Italian grandmother who doted on us.

Fancy Spots to Check out Next Time

As per usual, I left Rome on my last visit with a list of places for next time. Despite multiple trips, I haven’t yet experienced Rome’s fine dining scene. When I do, two places top my list:

La Pergola

This is your three-star Michelin dining, for the really exceptional splurge while in Rome. The tasting menu price will set you back quite a few Euros, but this is the foodie experience many dream of. This is the ultimate in fancy Rome dining for the truly special occasion.

Pataclara

Pataclara is my top pick for a splurge on my next visit to Rome. Although the website is entirely in Italian, you can see how each dish is a work of art when you click the link above. There are quite a number of options of dishes a la carte as well as 3 degustazioni, or tasting menus at different price points. You can certainly eat in Rome for less, but I get the impression that both the €45 and €60 tasting menus are an absolute bargain for how much you’ll enjoy the food here.

Gelato Spots

There are a lot of gelaterie in Rome, and I tried many more than made this list. For me, that perfect gelato has a combination of silky smooth texture mixed with intense flavor that gives you pause. Here are two spots where you’ll have that gelato epiphany:

Gelateria Fatamorgana

Think of the most crazy flavor combination you can. It’s probably one of your choices at any Fatamorgana branch around Rome, in addition to more traditional flavors. The good news is that wherever you are in the city, there’s probably one relatively close. I visited a branch not terribly far from the Colisseum, but just a far enough stroll that it was filled with neighborhood locals with barely another tourist in sight.

Gelateria dei Gracchi

This is the only gelateria in Rome that wowed me so much that I visited twice in two days. There are a couple of centrally located outposts. I visited the one by the Lepanto metro stop, and was instantly transported to foodie heaven as I enjoyed their crema di pinoli flavor, which is luxuriously creamy and perfectly flavored with pine nut intensity. There’s a reason you’ll be lined up here with the locals.

There’s certainly no shortage of places to eat in Rome, but of course if you want a wonderful meal, that narrows the field considerably. Even if you’re limited on time and sticking to the tourist highlights, there are lots of great restaurants in close proximity – you just need to know where to go.

What are your favorite places to eat in Rome? Have you been to anywhere from the list? Any other restaurants I should try? Help me decide which spots to savor on my next visit!

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An Encounter in Rome: Tales from the Road

July 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“OK, I’ll go around the block, and if I don’t find somewhere else, I’ll come back here.”

This might sound like part of a conversation, but this was just me negotiating with myself, with the convincing voice in my head making a mental deal to only look just a little bit further to find a place to eat lunch.

On this brisk day last fall, I was walking around by the Pantheon in Rome, Italy. It’s a pretty popular part of town with visitors, but I didn’t want to end up in a tourist trap restaurant with mediocre fare. I had done research and marked some spots nearby as possibilities, but as I strolled and perused their menus along the way, nothing really inspired me.

It’s the quintessential tourist experience. You’re hot, you’ve been walking around all morning so your feet are getting tired, and your stomach is now grumbling so you’re just hunting for anywhere to sit down for a bit to rest your legs and have your lunch.

This is the point where most people stop at the first place they see and take their chances. And there’s nothing wrong with that.

But if you’ve read other blog posts that I’ve written and gleaned something about my travel style, you know that grabbing a seat at the first available restaurant is not my typical approach. I’ll go somewhere random in a pinch, but especially when I have limited time in a city known for its cuisine, I try to be a bit more discerning with my choices.

And if I’m traveling solo like I was on this trip, I get to decide all on my own how much time and distance I’m willing to trek for a good meal.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Finally I passed one place that wasn’t super exciting, but was certainly good enough and I was getting quite hungry by this point. And this is when I made the deal with myself – that I’d go around one more block to look for alternatives, and then would make a decision and end up *somewhere* for my meal.

Fortunately, as I rounded the corner, there were two more spots across from one another on a cobblestone pedestrian street, and the first one I stopped at had an interesting enough menu to pique my interest. Plus, I was quite hungry, and there was a table available outside so that settled it and I got comfortable.

Normally I would have asked the server for advice on what to order. Especially in Italy, servers will typically steer you to a favorite dish or what is freshest that day, so even if it’s not what you would have picked, it’s often your best bet for a wonderful meal.

I probably should have done that here as well, but after all my trekking I just picked a few things and didn’t have much in the way of expectations for what would arrive in front of me. Luckily for me, lunch was good and I was pleasantly surprised with how beautifully the dishes were presented:

Once I finished, the server was bustling at the bar inside so instead of waiting for someone to appear to ask for the check (this can take ages it Italy as it’s considered rude to bring a check when someone’s enjoying a meal), I went inside to pay. Since I was planning to pay with my Italian bancomat (debit) card, it was likely I’d have to go inside anyway to use the machine anyway.

It was when I politely requested the check that my whole impression of the meal and restaurant began to shift. In an interaction I had played out many times at restaurants all over Italy, as I’m standing at the coffee bar inside, I was offered dessert and politely declined.

“Oh, but we have these special biscottini made in house that you absolutely must try.”

An offer that is always hard to refuse, so I accepted.

At my first bite into the surprisingly moist yet still crumbly and flavorful cookie, my casual demeanor changes to one of intense concentration. I chew slowly, trying to figure out what exactly is making my taste buds dance with delight. I’m not sure what it is, but the biscottini are truly outstanding and different from anything I’ve ever tried (and that’s saying something, trust me!)

As I start up a nonchalant conversation to try and find out what exactly is it that I’m both savoring and devouring, the waiter insists that I must have some moscato dessert wine, because it is the absolute perfect pairing with the cookie (which of course turns out to be the case, and I’m given quite the healthy pour as you can see):

I begin sipping away, savoring all of the flavors together, and then I get the real gem: the recipe! Easy to memorize, but hard to follow. No numbers, no details, just the typical Italian approach of a few high-quality ingredients, combined in precisely the right proportion, to fabulous result:

White wine
Oil
Flour
Hazelnut

Yup, that’s it. Sounds simple enough, but I don’t know how I would even begin to approach combine those 4 things in the right way and cooking it ‘just so’ to get the result I enjoyed that afternoon.

And keep in mind that this was on all Italian generosity, as I had long paid my bill. I was just having a connection and an experience over food. The Italian way.

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I’m now back in US after 3 years living in Milan, Italy. I keep trying to explain what it was like living there – the coffee, the food, the wine, the atmosphere on the streets, the people, the hospitality.

My words often fail me. Even though I’ve now had 6+ months of practice fielding those questions, the right response that conveys the spirit of what I’m missing continues to elude me.

It is really hard to explain what living in Italy is like without living there yourself. Strolling the cobblestone streets day after day and engaging in all of those little interactions – at the coffee bar, boarding the tram, in line at the post office – that comprise a day in the life of an Italian (or anyone else who is lucky enough to live there).

For whatever reason, I’ve had a lot of reminders of Italy this week and it is making me miss it terribly, although I’m not sure that “homesick” is the right term for what I have.

Which is why I’m thinking and writing of this wonderful encounter in Rome that was so typically Italian in so many ways – the service I received, the openness of my server to strike up a conversation, & the insistence of trying the house specialty because someone put their heart and soul into its creation. Making the server happy to watch me savoring the biscottini he had raved about. Reflecting the well-known Italian “fact” that if you’re eating, you must also drink for proper enjoyment of both.

And leaving with a full heart and a recipe in my pocket.

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Have you experienced a similar memorable travel encounter? Share your inspiration in the ‘Comments’ below. In these days of longing and wanderlust, I need all the help I can get!

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What It’s Like Celebrating July 4th Abroad

July 4, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

There is something particular about being overseas for a national holiday – especially your country’s Independence Day – and I’ve had my fair share of experience celebrating July 4^th abroad. Which for me has always been a very different experience from celebrating at home.

Perhaps my desire to mark the day somehow is due to the many all-American July 4^th celebrations I’ve had stateside. As a kid on a road trip with my sister and grandparents, we spent the evening of July 4^th in Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia, watching fireworks in a historical American setting with staff milling about in period dress.

As an adult, I lived in Washington, DC for nearly a decade, and spent many Independence Days there. Once spending it in the crowds of people down on the National Mall by all of the monuments. Another year at the top of a hill overlooking the fireworks from a neighborhood spot where everyone had poured out onto the streets. I also enjoyed hosting a barbecue and watching the fireworks from afar for many years with large groups of friends on the rooftop of my apartment building. Eating red, white, and blue colored desserts and taking in the many fireworks displays across the horizon.

And then after so many typically American July 4^th celebrations, I moved abroad.

Whether living abroad or simply taking advantage of the day off for the holiday to take a trip overseas, many of you have probably been out of the country for the 4^th of July, even if it was just once.

I’ve enjoyed celebrating July 4^th abroad many times now, whether it was where I was living at the time, or on a summer trip. Here are a few of the ways I’ve marked the day when I’ve been outside of the US:

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Perth, Australia

When you live abroad, it’s sort of an unwritten rule that you have one week before and after to properly celebrate a holiday from back home that is just another regular day where you’re living. Especially when it’s a holiday that falls on a weekday.

So in 2012 when I was living in Perth, Australia, my July 4^th celebration actually happened a few days early – on July 1^st (thanks cell phone camera, for helping me figure that out exactly!). Definitely within that week leeway on either side of the actual date.

I knew the celebration was a carnival, taking place mostly outdoors. And remember that while July is summer in the US, it’s wintertime in Australia. Fortunately Perth has one of the mildest Australian winters, so it was still quite pleasant strolling around.

I knew the event was a carnival, but there were a lot of unexpected ways that the event was an “American” celebration.

Like the American classic cars:

Although you typically need to re-fit any cars you bring over to move the steering wheel to the right-hand side like the Australian vehicles, you can get a special dispensation to keep the steering wheel on the left if you have a classic car.

Or the tons of motorcycles, many outfitted with American décor:

Yes, there was a carnival, too. A costume contest and an American flag cake and booths all around, including from the local Perth baseball team.

But it was the unique aspects of the day – namely the vehicles – that still stand out in my memory the most.

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad over a Road Trip in France

One year the 4^th of July fell over a summer road trip. On July 3^rd I waved goodbye to the foodie mecca of San Sebastian, Spain, and headed toward a small town across the border in France to stay with family friends of my traveling companion.

This was a British couple with a vacation home in France, and the timing just happened to work out for us to pop in for a night. What I didn’t know was that the couple had just recently become American citizens, after several years living in the US.

So when we first drove up to the gate, this was our welcome:

Obviously we had found the right house, and had even been placed in a room in the house meticulously decorated with American memorabilia. However, that was the end of the American-themed part of the day.

We enjoyed a dinner of local specialties with bottles of wine we picked up at a winery just down the road. In the morning, we strolled through a local market and had a typically French start to the morning with cafe au lait and fresh croissants.

Somehow, though, as I reveled in the local French experience, it stood out as a contrast to what the day would have been like had I been in the US instead.

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Milan, Italy

July 4^th last year, which I spent at home in Milan, Italy, had the potential to be my biggest July 4^th overseas yet. I had lived in the city nearly three years at that point and knew a ton of other Americans. I was a member of an English-speaking women’s club that had a lot of American members. I was invited to a large Independence Day celebration.

While the day had the potential to be a blowout July 4^th, it ended up being incredibly low-key. It was like any other Monday, and although as an American I definitely wanted to celebrate somehow, I did not feel up for the party atmosphere.

So instead I had what for me was the perfect way to mark the holiday. I met up with a small group of American friends locally and we went for dinner together at a restaurant owned by an American friend.

And as my own personal way to mark the day as being different, I conducted a mini act of American rebellion in Italy of wearing flip flops out. Which definitely marks you as an outsider, as this is not how the locals dress when they leave the house in Italy.

Although my July 4^th in Milan might not sound so exciting, when you’re overseas and national holidays come along, it’s up to you how you would like to celebrate. Sometimes the big organized party will be your speed, other times it’s a quiet meal with close friends.

However you decide to mark the occasion, the important piece for me has always been doing something special and recognizing the day in some way. Making the holiday your own, even if it’s not a typical celebration.

Happy 4^th of July!!

Have you ever been in the position of celebrating July 4^th abroad? What was the experience like for you? If you’ve always celebrated July 4^th stateside, would you ever consider being abroad for the holiday? I’d love to hear your thoughts and about your experiences!

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How to Spend One Day in Cremona, Italy

April 25, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Living in Milan, I was always on the lookout for easy day trips from the city, and I just could not pass up the opportunity to check out Cremona. What started on a whim turned into one of the most rewarding day trips I took anywhere during my three years in Italy.

What makes a day in Cremona so incredible? Like Mainz (my favorite day trip from Frankfurt, Germany), Cremona has stunningly beautiful sights to see, all of which can be visited in a single, relaxing day. This makes it a perfect candidate for a day trip, when you can see quite a bit and feel like you’ve covered the main tourist attractions.

I arrived seeking out the world-famous Stradivarius violins, and found so much more to explore and appreciate when I arrived. Even this New York Times article notes, “There’s More to Cremona Than Violins.” Most of the top things to do are around the main square, or piazza, with other sights to see depending on your interests.

That is not to discount the beauty of the violins, though. I spent far longer in the Violin Museum than I typically would, both for the extensive, interactive exhibits and also the sheer beauty of the Stradivarius violins. As happens to me sometimes, I stood awestruck at the incredible beauty and craftsmanship of the violins. Truly mesmerizing, and this is not just blogger hyperbole here. You can read more about this top experience of 2016 for me here in my post about being thankful, and of course below.

Cremona, despite not having a university or nearby wine region, is one of the more impressive places you can spend a day in Italy. A few reasons why…

Things to Do

Cathedral & Baptistery

Cremona’s Cathedral is quite impressive, dating back to the 12^th century and decorated inside with beautiful artwork. The complex is quite large, and each facade has a different appearance to take in. The octagonal Baptistery nearby is formally a Cathedral annex, where children would be baptized before being allowed to enter the Cathedral. It is a fairly bare building possibly more impressive from the outside, but it’s worth popping in if you’ve purchased a combination ticket (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting‘ section below).

Piazza del Commune

This is the main piazza in town, where you’ll find the Cathedral, Baptistery, and Bell Tower. However, the piazza itself is quite striking, and there are a variety of open areas with sculptures and other art along its perimeter. Leave aside time just to wander around, especially along the many pedestrian side streets that connect to the square.

Torazzo Bell Tower & Astronomical Clock

The Bell Tower and its Astronomical Clock, adjacent to the Cathedral, were two unexpected superlatives of my time in Cremona. The Torazzo of Cremona is the 3^rd-tallest brick tower in the world! Not only can you gaze upon it from the Piazza del Commune, but it is also possible to climb its 502 steps to the top. I love being able to get a high viewpoint whenever I can as I travel, and it’s lovely to look over the surrounding countryside.

On the outside facade of the Torazzo is the largest astronomical clock in the world! It tracks the movements of the sun and moon, as well as eclipses. You can get a closer look at its inner mechanism and explore an exhibit about how it works when you climb the tower. Definitely one of the highlights of my day.

Violin Museum (Museo del Violino)

This is the main attraction for most visitors to Cremona, and one of the best museums I’ve ever visited. Unfortunately pictures are forbidden inside, however I’ve included a picture above from when some instruments were on loan to another museum.

Highlights of visiting included the detailed and interactive displays on crafting violins, from the most famous ones made by Antonio Stradivari to those crafted by other local artisans. Stradivari even made a pretty fabulously-decorated guitar! I was completely mesmerized by the beauty of his instruments, and just couldn’t take my eyes off of them. You can read more about the experience here in my post about being thankful.

Another of the most interesting parts for me were the instruments on display from the many years of the triennial violin-making competition. Not only could you see the various violins, violas, basses, and cellos on display, but there were snippets of music that had been played on each that you could listen to on the audio guide. And they really did all sound different!

TIP! There are a lot of concerts and special events at the museum, check the schedule online before you go.

TIP! If you’d like to visit during the triennial violin-making competition, the next one is in 2018!

Best Bites

Hosteria 700

I sought this restaurant out because it offers a lot of Cremonese specialties, like the stuffed marubini pasta, often filled with a mixture of beef, chicken, and veal. They also have some innovative ways to present Italian ingredients, like the shockingly sweet caramelized onion tatin, with a gelato made of grana cheese. A very elevated and satisfying dining experience for such a small Italian town.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

The easiest way to arrive in Cremona is by train, and most sights are in easy walking distance of the train station. There are many direct trains a day from Milan, as well as other northern Italian towns, like Brescia. Cremona is just over an hour by train from Milan.

When you arrive, a lot of the main sights to see are part of the Cathedral complex. Be sure to ask about combined entrance tickets for discounted admission.

Certainly this is not an exhaustive list of the sights to see in Cremona, and a lot of the beauty I took in was just from strolling around town. If you spend more time or have a more ambitious itinerary, you can seek out some of the other tourist attractions, like the Stradivarius house, the Archaeological Museum, the Po River, and other churches around town.

Have you ever visited a place for a single sight? Would *you* go to Cremona just to see the Stradivarius violins?

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Top Restaurant Picks

Fancy Spots to Check out Next Time

Gelato Spots

Celebrating July 4th Abroad in Perth, Australia

Celebrating July 4th Abroad over a Road Trip in France

Celebrating July 4th Abroad in Milan, Italy

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Perth, Australia

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad over a Road Trip in France

Celebrating July 4^th Abroad in Milan, Italy