You could spend weeks in Venice without exhausting your options for museums to explore, churches to visit, and places for a delicious meal. But since your time visiting will likely be much more limited, here’s the Travel Savvy Gal “cheat sheet” for the essentials:
Things to Do
Rialto Bridge
It’s iconic. It is quite tall, so offers a great view of the Grand Canal. You’re decently likely to pass it anyway as you wander Venice, but in case not, seek it out at least once.
St. Mark’s Square
This is the piazza you see in many of the typical photographs of Venice. With several tourist attractions right on the square you’ll likely be here already. When you are, take some time in the square itself to appreciate its grandeur.
Exploring here will give you a solid insight into Venetian history and life.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s worth reserving a ticket for the Doge’s Palace in advance, as you’ll have a much shorter queue to enter.
I of course recommend visiting for longer if you can, but if you only have one day in Venice, read more about how to spend One Day in Venice for tips about making the most of your limited time.
If you’re going to see one sight in Venice, this should be it. The decoration is a little over-the-top for my personal preference, but the church is just incredible.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Lines to enter the Basilica can be long, so reserve a time slot in advance on the “Reservations” section on the website linked above.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to go to the outdoor terraces for a lovely view of St. Mark’s Square.
There are more sections to this basilica than meets the eye, so it was a wonderful place to explore and see a variety of artwork and carved altars in different mediums.
Off the Beaten Path
Islands
As you know from my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice, it’s definitely worth it to set aside the time to explore some of Venice’s islands beyond the main sections. If you do take a day to island-hop, the best meal I’ve had outside of Venice’s main areas was on the island of Murano – see the Best Bites section below.
While 2016 marked 500 years since the establishment of the Jewish Ghetto in Venice, Jewish life has existed in the city for even longer. The museum gives a good overview, and the tour of the ghetto is engaging and excellent.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Typical tour times may be altered for the Sabbath (from late Friday through Saturday) and on Jewish holidays, so verify availability in advance.
The tower requires advance booking, which you can do not far in advance at the ticket office on the other side of St. Mark’s Square. It’s a different perspective on the area, and has some great views of St. Mark’s (the Square and the Basilica) from the upper levels.
There is a massive art exhibition in odd-numbered years, with pavilions by country that contain some fairly progressive art. Most are located in the Giardini area, although there are pavilions all around the city. Even-numbered years have been focusing on architecture.
The art collection here is truly outstanding, and is situated with some lovely sculpture gardens and terraces on the Grand Canal. Worth a visit, although not typical to Venice per se.
A well-known fish restaurant, you can get a tasting menu of small plates to sample the variety of Venetian seafood, for a minimum of two people. It also has popular pasta and gnocchi specials daily that I’ve found to be quite delicious – be sure to ask your server about these as they’re not printed in the menu.
Some of the portion sizes are quite sizeable, so order accordingly or ask your server for recommendations. While large, the polenta with baccalà (salt cod) appetizer was exceptional.
Located on the island of Murano, there are a variety of typical Italian pastas, meat dishes, and pizzas on offer. I had a seafood carbonara here that I still dream about.
An institution for Venetian cuisine with a lot of local customers, a meal here can be a good value or extravagant, depending on what you order. Although known for its fish options, the standout dish on my recent visit was the fried liver and polenta.
Best Bites (for cicchetti, Venetian tapas)
My three favorite spots are listed below. Check out my cicchetti post for a thorough run-down of different spots for Venetian tapas, organized by neighborhood.
This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice, so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city. I like it for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.
This long-time Venetian spot has solid cicchetti choices and a traditional atmosphere. There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition.
Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists. This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may walk past the turn off the main street the first time like I did, but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.
I haven’t loved any of the gelato I’ve had in Venice, although I’ve tried many places. I’d recommend waiting to be in other parts of Italy to savor some frozen goodness, but if the craving hits in Venice, these are the best places I’ve tried:
How does one person become an expert on where to stay in Venice, Italy?
In this case, live in Milan for several years, under 3 hours by train from Venice, and visit often like I did!
Venice was so close to Milan that I visited often, sometimes even as part of a last-minute weekend plan. So when people ask me about where to stay in Venice, Italy, I have quite a few ideas from all of the great places I’ve stayed.
Amazingly, I never repeated a hotel or B&B stay in my many trips. Partly because it’s fun to explore new neighborhoods and get to know the city, and also because there was one trip with my parents when they visited, one as a solo traveler, another with friends, and so on.
Which is good news for you, because I have *personally stayed* at almost all of the places listed below. And can attest to what great jumping off points they are for exploring this magical city.
I don’t know that there is one singular best place to stay in Venice – either a specific hotel or neighborhood – but there are certainly are many best places to stay in Venice, Italy.
And let’s be real, this is life, not every experience was completely magical. So I’ve also included plenty of TRAVEL SAVVY TIPS and resources to help you avoid common pitfalls that come along with staying in Venice – so you can focus on enjoying this incredible city!
Where to Stay in Venice, Italy
As you’ll see in your research, there is no one right or easy answer as to where to stay in Venice.
It may depend on:
Whether you are traveling solo or as a couple or in a group
Whether you are traveling with family or friends
If this is your first trip to Venice or a return visit
How many nights you’ll be staying
Are you overwhelmed yet?
I am all smiles strolling around Venice, Italy and the side canals
Not to worry, while the options are many, I think there are really some very basic things to keep in mind.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most visitors when deciding where to stay in Venice will either want to be close to the train station OR close to the main tourist sights around St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco. → Decide which you’d prefer.
And it’s also important to keep in mind that Venice is not like other cities you’ve ever visited. For one, there are NO CARS.
So it helps to have some idea of what sights you’ll see on your visit, and how much walking you’d like to do to pick the best location to stay in Venice.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Regardless of where in Venice you stay, I always recommend staying close to a stop for the vaporetto, which is Venice’s metro system – by boat! It is a great way to get around the city and even to some of the islands you can’t reach by strolling across a bridge, like Murano and Burano.
Best Places to Stay in Venice, Italy
Now this is the part you’ve been waiting for – specific recommendations of places you can stay that are convenient, affordable (or maybe even a splurge!) and considered to be in a best location to stay in Venice
Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to St. Mark’s Square
If this is your first trip to Venice, let’s face it, you probably want to stay close to St. Mark’s Square, known in Italian as Piazza San Marco. That is where many iconic sights are located, and you’ll get to view them at all hours of the day as you explore.
While you’ll need to get yourself from the train or bus to your hotel (most likely by boat, of course!) once you have dropped off your luggage, Venice will be at your doorstep.
There is also a bus from the Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma (right by the train station and main vaporetto metro boat stops) that runs every 20-30 minutes and costs €8 one-way or €15 for a round-trip ticket.
Find the current bus timetable for the “Venice Marco Polo Airport – Venice Piazzale Roma (express service)” HERE
Just a few steps from here to get back to Locanda al Leon
Location:
3-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
3-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats) with a lot of available routes
Price:
$150/€130 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
I got lucky and was able to stay here last minute on a July visit and can attest that even though it is a gorgeous, historic building with a traditional Venetian feel, the A/C is modern and will combat the hottest day you might face in Venice. The staff is very hospitable and it really is a beautiful property. Plus, the hotel is in a great location, so it’s really great value for money.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! They also have some cheaper single rooms if you are a solo traveler.
View of Ponte all’Accademia, the bridge over the Grand Canal in Venice
Location:
10-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
4-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
2- minute walk to the Bridge of the Accademia/Ponte dell’Accademia (one of the few bridges that crosses the Grand Canal!)
Price:
$160/€140 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
With a 5.0 score on Trip Advisor with 500+ reviews, who doesn’t love this Bed & Breakfast? Although I have not been able to stay here yet, this is my top choice for my next visit to Venice. While an easy walk to St. Mark’s Square and the main tourist sites, it is also close to a bridge across the Grand Canal that gets less attention than Rialto Bridge, but is just as beautiful. Plus, some of my favorite Venice attractions are right across the bridge. The B&B is recently renovated and reviewers talk about the beautiful property, delicious breakfast, great service, and excellent recommendations around Venice from staff. This is in a quieter part of San Marco quarter, which is a plus for me as well.
Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to the Train Station
Train Station Santa Lucia in Venice Italy
The main train station in Venice, Stazione Santa Lucia, has the advantage of also being close to most of the various metro (vaporetto) lines, so it is an easy jumping off point, regardless of where you’d like to explore around Venice.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be aware that a “hotel close to the Train Station” may also be over a bridge with a lot of stairs, so consider the exact location of your accommodation when deciding which luggage to use for your trip.
This is my favorite part of Venice to stay, because it is accessible to boats and exploring by foot, but is far away enough from the main tourist hub to have a more relaxed feel. You also have better food options nearby if you’re tired after a day of sightseeing and want to stay close by.
Location:
5-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a tall bridge)
5-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
Price:
$200-300/€190-270 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
This is one of the absolutely closest hotels you can find by the train station, which is your likely arrival point. It’s just a short walk from the station and over a bridge, with plenty of locals lined up to help you with your luggage (for a charge, of course). As for the hotel, it’s the only room I’ve stayed at in Venice with a view of the Grand Canal, so if you splurge for a canal view room you are in for a treat. When my parents visited we stayed here, and they were able to get a good deal through a travel agent back home. Plus, their rooftop bar, the Sky Lounge, is a luxurious spot to spend the evening sipping away as you look out over the water.
Location:
8-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a bridge)
8-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
Price:
$250-300/€230-280 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
Although I haven’t stayed here, this would be the ultimate splurge hotel in Venice, still with the convenience of the location close to the train station. Those who have been lucky enough to stay here rave about the service and note that staff members exceed expectations so everyone had excellent stays. Although close for getting around, it is also in a quieter neighborhood than the Hotel Carlton above.
Location:
10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station
20-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
10-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
Price:
$110-160/€100-150 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
The word ca’ is a shortened version of casa, or house, and there is definitely a homey feel for this place. This was my favorite spot to stay as a solo traveler, and is more affordable than other spots due to having a shared bathroom for the single rooms. The property also has double, triple, and quadruple rooms with private bathrooms. The location is in easy walking distance to stop of my favorite cicchetti and restaurant spots, and also has been renovated since my last stay.
While there’s always the chance of scoring a great hotel or B&B deal, I find that for more than 2 people, an AirBNB is typically the cheapest and most convenient accommodation option – not just in Venice, but in all of Italy!
If you’ve never tried it before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!
Before booking your AirBNB, definitely read reviews and make sure that other guests have had their stay go smoothly, as not all Venice AirBNB experiences are good ones. (For my one bad AirBNB experience in Venice, I ended up staying the rest of the weekend at the lovely Locanda al Leon – the first spot on this list – which completely redeemed the trip!)
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Pay extra attention to the availability of the host in case of a problem. Also check reviews to see if people met their host quickly or waited a long time, which happens more frequently with AirBNBs in Venice vs. other places.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you visit in summer, be sure that there was adequate A/C noted by other guests (and that the property has it in the first place!).
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving very early or late in the day, make sure there will be someone available at your arrival time.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to have the ability to call local phone numbers and/or be on a data signal to use apps to get in touch with the person you are meeting, if needed.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Of course, you may be surprised to learn that AirBNB can sometimes be more expensive than a hotel, so I always recommend checking your options so you can make an informed choice:
Tips on Where to Stay in Venice and Booking Strategies
For most visitors, the challenge is not where to stay in Venice, but how to get to your accommodation once you arrive in the city!
Since cars are not allowed in Venice, visitors basically arrive by bus or train (the stations for both are close to one another), and then make their way to a hotel or guesthouse on foot or by boat.
While some hotels offer shuttle service to arrive, I’ve always found my way on my own.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Whatever your plan, take into account how you will arrive and how far somewhere is from the train station when making your hotel booking.
When deciding on where to stay in Venice, you can quickly check details using the public transportation option on Google Maps – in Venice, it shows you boat routes!
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Sometimes B&Bs are more expensive than hotels – and sometimes the reverse is true – so be sure to check for Venice accommodations with your dates inserted to compare prices and availability.
However you decide to book, be sure to consult the Travel Savvy Gal Checklist for Booking Accommodation to make sure there’s nothing you forget to check when you decide where to stay in Venice.
Once you’ve booked, wherever you’re staying will likely provide information on the best way to arrive, whether it is by foot or boat.
Actv metro boat (vaporetto) in Venice, Italy
BOAT OPTIONS
If you are figuring this out on your own, there are 2 main boat options:
Boat Taxi – this is different from the metro boat (vaporetto) and different from a gondola. Just like you can hail a car taxi on a city street, you can grab a boat taxi leaving the docks next to the train station.
Boat Metro (vaporetto) – Like in any other city, the public transportation option will be the cheapest. You can purchase vaporetto tickets from a machine in person when you arrive, or arrange it ahead of time as part of a Venice City Pass. There is also an app for your mobile phone: the AVM Venezia Official App.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! No matter how you purchase your vaporetto ticket, be sure to validate the ticket by scanning it with the machine on the dock outside of the train station. They will come and check sometimes and you could be fined if you forget!
When I travel, I always like to read at least one book that is set in my destination. And since vacation is a time to relax, I also like reading some lighter reads – from romance to thrillers to laugh-out-loud memoirs. Maybe even take the distance from home and a clear mind to devour something interesting that is non-fiction.
This one sounds absolutely adorable. The son of the US president has a confrontation with the Prince of Wales, and then the fake friendship they portray (for damage control in the media) turns into love. If you like politics, or royals, or just enjoy reading about two people falling for each other despite difficult circumstances, this is the book to bring with you to the beach.
I had so much fun last summer reading the first book in this series, The Kiss Quotient, that I’m excited to have a follow-up novel to read so quickly. The main character in this book was a side character in the previous book, although the story line seems to be similar with unrequited love and family meddling woven together into a single story.
The plot is simple enough – a single mom escapes to the big city (without her kids) for the summer and finds a love interest that turns her world upside down and makes her reconsider her life choices. Even though it’s a pretty basic premise, good beach reads are always in order for summer – and this is one of my picks because of how hilarious the writing is supposed to be!
I am drawn to this book partly because its premise is interesting – what happens when an infertile woman accidentally meets (and intentionally befriends!) the woman who is her anonymous egg donor to have a baby. Also, I am admittedly drawn to read something with a title character named Lana – just like me! While the initial details of the book make it sound like a human interest story, the thriller aspect comes into play when the egg donor goes missing and Lana might have been the last person to see her before the mysterious disappearance.
A typical suburban couple with kids gets bored and then somehow decides the secret to keeping their marriage exciting is getting away with murder. Literally. I admittedly know very little about the book since I don’t want to ruin the suspense and surprise of reading it. But it sounds like a fun page-turner not unlike the movie Mr. and Mrs. Smith that will definitely entertain.
Set in the great outdoors of northern Canada, the peace of the natural surroundings are disturbed when two college friends overhear an argument between a man and a woman and then later see . . . only the man, paddling alone on the river. Again, I’ve prevented myself from reading anything that might spoil the story for me, but it sounds like this one gets pretty real, since descriptions talk about desperate wilderness survival. Don’t read this one on a camping trip!
When comparisons are made to Agatha Christie, one of my favorite mystery authors, I know this book is for me. A high-powered, seemingly successful marriage ends when the main character shoots and kills her husband one night the moment she sees him. And then goes completely silent. The book details the criminal psychologist who works with this silent patient to try and unravel the mystery of why.
Although Syria is not featured prominently in the news most days, rebel activity and humanitarian issues continue. So picture the scene set by this Syrian author, imagining a man whose final wish is to be buried in the tumultuous Aleppo region in the family plot. Once the surviving children decide to honor their father’s last request, the story unfolds. I don’t know that I’ve read any books set in Syria, and am looking forward to learning a bit about it through this fictional story.
This book won’t even come out until August 2019, but after devouring the author’s previous novel The Tiger’s Wife, I couldn’t leave this pick off my summer reading list, as I hope to read it while it’s still summer. Obrecht’s novels are part-historical, part-magical in her gorgeous storytelling style, with details unfolding in a way that completely captivates me. I’m also eager to read a historical novel set in Arizona Territory in the late 1800s after my recent Scottsdale trip.
I am drawn to what sounds like a James Michener style fictional tale spanning three families and several generations in Zambia, and based on a historical autobiography of Percy M. Clark called The Autobiography of An Old Drifter. It’s quite an ambitious scope for a debut novel, and I can’t wait to be transported to another place and time following along.
Like Inland above, this novel is part historical fiction and part fantasy. Drinking a bottle of Beaujolais wine from 1954 transports a bunch of modern day apartment dwellers to Paris of the 1950s, where they soak up the culture of that period while trying to find a way back to 2017. While technically historical, this is exactly the kind of wine-fueled exploration and light reading that is ideal for summer getaways.
This sounds to me like the book version of a cross between the cult classic movie This is Spinal Tap and Almost Famous. Set in the late 1960s and early 1970s, the book is about a journalist seeing the inside workings of a hugely successful band of the era, and I love this idea for what a different type of novel this is. Reid is also the author of the popular The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo, so if you liked that, this summer reading book may be for you!
This debut short story collection explores issues of Chinese youth, in China and America, touching on other serious and cultural themes as well. I always find summertime to be great for short stories, because you can breeze through an entire single narrative in one afternoon.
If British humor – or should I say humour – is your thing, this summer read might be up your alley. Centered around a Jamaican British woman who breaks up with her long-time white boyfriend, there are more complex issues of race at play as you follow her string of bad decisions in the wake of the breakup. It sounds like somewhere between total fluff and a serious read.
This one is vaguely historical fiction, but only because Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis features prominently, and is mostly a regular tale with a famous character inserted. Other than Mrs. Onassis serving as one of the two main characters, this book really sounds like it is about the relationship between her as “The Editor” at publishing house and a budding author who is struggling to finish a manuscript about his dysfunctional family. Of course boundaries are blurred, and the editor and writer relationship becomes the story. I want to read this both for the historical aspect and the focus on books – which I obviously love!
I’ve been back living in the United States almost as long as I lived in Milan, but I am still feeling like a former expat adjusting and continue to miss Italy. So of course I was drawn to this memoir by the mention of Sicily in the title alone, not to mention the story beginning when the author experiences love at first sight encountering a professional chef on a street in Florence. Of course, nothing is ever simple when an Italian family is involved, and I can’t wait to follow along for this story.
I am not one to do any of the genetic tests out there, but plenty of others are. Even just in my circle of friends, I have heard stories of surprise relatives or unexpected paternity. I know just enough to know that this is a not uncommon phenomenon and there are even support groups on the internet for people who are struggling with these unearthed family secrets. What I didn’t realize is that there is a also a book detailing one person’s surprise discovery about her father and how she reconciles it with the person she thought she was.
I am fascinated by the premise of this one, talking about the inherent design bias of fields as vastly different as medicine and the automotive industry. I’m interested in reading it because it doesn’t sound like just a litany of complaints by women, but instead is a reasoned, intellectual look at the assumptions we take for granted in the everyday world.
Although this account was published in 2011, I only just heard of this book of how women in Liberia of different religious backgrounds banded together to lead a war-torn nation to peace. I love a feel-good story as part of my summer reading, and it’s even better when it’s true.
As a blogger, I keep hearing how important it is to have a focused niche where you are *the expert.* Which is all well and good for many people out there, but I really feel equally enamored about so many aspects of travel – adventure, culture, food, wine, expat life – and so I write about them all! I am hoping this book gives me a bit of validation, and am curious to see the flip side of Malcolm Gladwell’s argument in Outliers that 10,000 of hours of focused practice will lead you to mastery and success.
Obviously when I started looking into books to read on vacation this summer, I found quite a lot of amazing options to dive into. I can’t wait for summer travel – and summer reading – and hope you’ve found some great reading inspiration for the coming months as well.
Happy travels! And happy reading!
Lana
Any books on this list that you’re already reading and loving? What other books to read on vacation would you recommend for my summer reading? Let me know your summer reading recommendations below!
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In Italy, there is one correct way to do everything. Yes, you may think you have a better way, that the way things are done do not seem logical, or realize that it’s not how things are done at home.
None of that matters because you are talking about hundreds, if not thousands of years of history behind the ways of Italian life.
You won’t change them during your short stay, but you can embrace them.
Locals are likely to take one look at you and know you’re a tourist. So if you want to disregard everything below, go ahead – it’s your vacation and it is all about enjoying yourself.
BUT if you’d like to experience a slice of living as the Italians do, here are my top 10 ways to experience Italy like a local:
1. Consume a typical Italian breakfast of cappuccino and a brioche, or something else sweet to start the day. A brioche is a sweet pastry that looks like a croissant, but tastes neither like a croissant nor French brioche bread. It is a slightly different but equally delicious pastry, and can come plain (“empty”) or filled with marmalade, cream, chocolate, or other fruit/nut fillings.
2. Avoid cappuccino past mid morning, or around 10/10:30am. The acceptable post-lunch and dinner coffees are either an espresso or a caffè macchiato (espresso with a touch of foamed milk on top).
3. Have bottled water at each of your meals. Drinking tap water is just not done. Your decision is between acquanaturale (still water) and acqua frizzante or acqua gassata (both different ways of saying sparkling water).
4. Eat on an Italian schedule on the late side, especially for dinner. If you want to experience the dining scene in Italy like a local, adjust your schedule to match theirs. Many restaurants do not open until at least 7:30pm for dinner, but you won’t see Italians at that hour. Wait until 8:30pm or later to be eating with the Italians, and tide yourself over in the meantime by enjoying an aperitivo somewhere.
5. If you’re ready to leave a restaurant, request the check: il conto, per favore. They will almost never bring you the check unless you ask. It’s not considered bad service, just being polite. If you want to truly experience Italy like a local, take a cue from the natives, and linger for a long time, enjoying the company of those around you. And maybe even a digestivo, some grappa or limoncello to help you to digest smoothly.
6. Blow-dry your hair before venturing out. Italians do not leave the house with their hair wet. It is another one of those things that is just not done.
7. Save your flip flops for the seaside. Everything has its place. Flip flops (or thongs, for the Aussies) are beach shoes, and only city shoes are worn in the city. If you want to feel as if you’re blending in, this one is key!
8. Save your gym clothes for the gym, too. Unless someone is actually running for exercise, you almost never see anyone on the street in workout attire. Locals walk into the gym looking impeccable, work out, shower, blow-dry their hair, and exit also looking impeccable.*
9. Stick to what food combinations are recommended. The one correct way to do something extends to food as well. Usually there is one or a small few acceptable pasta shape and sauce combinations, and a seasonal or daily menu is always a good bet. If you’re not sure what is recommended, ask. The Italians want you to experience Italy like a local (they do think it’s the best way, after all!) so will be happy to guide you along.
10. Venturing to the market? Ask for advice at each stall to get the best product being offered (and don’t touch the produce yourself either). Market vendors are just as particular as other Italians. I’ve tried to buy a certain type of apple once and had it switched out for another when the person helping me found out I was using it to bake. Or buying porcini mushrooms, I had parsley thrown in the order automatically because obviously that is what I would need to cook the mushrooms with the proper flavors.
Remember that when locals try to steer you in a different direction, they have your best interests at heart and want you to get maximum enjoyment – it’s up to you to listen!
*this is the only item on this list I don’t follow regularly, but I sure look out of place on my brief walk to and from the gym.
Are there any questions about the Italian way of life that I haven’t answered yet? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.
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I should have known better. It was a wintry February, I was just two months into living in Italy, and was looking for a town not too large or far from Milan for a weekend trip. From some vague research, it seemed like Verona would be perfect.
It was big, but not too big. It had a bunch of noteworthy sights, but not too many to be overwhelming. It had a culinary scene, but was still only a short drive from wine country. So I found a good deal on a bed and breakfast (it was the off-season, after all) and booked.
It was only when I arrived on this first visit to Verona that the realization hit. First, it was a poster with hearts here and there. Then announcements of an upcoming festival. Then finally the barrage of red hearts permeating my consciousness and I started connecting the dots. Verona . . . “In fair Verona where we lay our scene” . . . Romeo & Juliet . . . a romantic destination for Valentine’s Day!
Unwittingly I had put together a very timely weekend getaway in this most romantic of places. And the center of Verona is quite compact and walkable to all of the sights, making for a leisurely time even with a healthy dose of sightseeing. And although a fair bit of what you’ll want to see is outside, it makes it even cozier when you enter the cocoon of a traditional, wood-paneled restaurant or get cozy next to the fireplace. Or warm up with a thick, gooey, Italian hot chocolate.
Despite sort of stumbling on this gem for a romantic weekend away in the days leading up to Valentine’s Day, it was such a wonderful trip.
If you’re going for a romantic weekend – at any time of year – definitely keep your schedule flexible. The only firm plans I’d make are for your meals if there are specific restaurants you have in mind, and most Italians will reserve if they’re going out to eat during the weekend. Otherwise, just play it by ear and go where your heart takes you <3
Things to Do
Even if you’re not feeling touristically ambitious, the Verona Card is a great value, providing free entry into many churches and the main sights around town. It comes in 24- and 48-hour versions, and can be most easily purchased at any of the included attractions (everything I list below is on the Card).
Verona’s Arena may not be as big or famous as the Colosseum in Rome, but it is very well preserved. So much so, that it hosts a full season of outdoor opera performances during the warmer months. To enter, you’ll inevitably pass through the picturesque Piazza Bra, which is also a nice spot to stroll.
Literally “old castle” in Italian, this castle-turned-museum has great pieces of art and sculpture on display. It also has what is probably my favorite view of Verona, overlooking the nearby bridge and river. It’s all just so quaint!
Not just any Shakespearean characters, Romeo and Juliet are part of how we think about love, even today. While Juliet was imagined, “her” house could not be more real, turned into a museum with an actual balcony where you can get your iconic picture and a wall at the entrance for leaving a note for your beloved.
Adjacent to Piazza delle Erbe, this tower has been around for nearly 1,000 years, and the bells still ring multiple times a day. The fun of course is the view at the top – accessible on foot or by elevator. You’ll need to specify your preference when getting your ticket to enter, as the elevator costs a bit more.
Churches
Like pretty much every city and town throughout Italy, there are several churches as well as a Cathedral, or Duomo. You’ll probably see several of these just strolling around, and there are 4 churches included on the Verona Card (see above). Verona has been well-preserved through the centuries, so you’ll get plenty of history whichever ones you choose to visit.
Close to Piazza delle Erbe, but away from the fray on a side street, this restaurant has been around since the late 1800s and you feel the history in the décor and the depth of flavors in the dishes. It’s a great spot to sample a red risotto, made with the local Amarone wine.
This is the spot to head to for traditional local cuisine. Popular with the locals, I definitely recommend a reservation for dinner or weekend dining. There is a ton of selection, and is personally notable as the one restaurant where I’ve sampled a dish with horse meat, which is pretty common throughout Italy. It was good.
Even wintertime is time for gelato. Many of the spots locals will recommend for the “best” gelato are far afield, but this is a delicious option right in the heart of the city, which has been around since the 1930s.
Like most great finds, I was looking for a spot for an aperitivo – a pre-dinner drink with some snacks – and followed the chatter of the locals to the bar inside. It’s on a pretty touristy stretch in Piazza Bra by the Arena, and I’ve never had a full meal there, but their cocktails are solid and the little nibbles that come with your drink are surprisingly delicious. The tasty snacks and great value for money (read: it’s cheap) are the reasons to seek out this particular spot. Join the crowd from about 6 to 8pm, before heading to your late Italian dinner.
TIP! Verona is in the Valentine’s spirit in the weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day. If you come on Valentine’s weekend itself, there is a multi-day “Verona in Love” Festival, which will be more crowded than other weekends, but also with more events. Its tag line says it all: “If you love someone . . . bring him to Verona!” Decide what timing works best for you and your sweetheart for that romantic getaway.
Several visits later and Verona is one of my favorite places in Italy, a spot I keep coming back to again and again. It’s a great romantic getaway for a day (or several) at any time of year, but you’ll feel some extra love from the city if you go around Valentine’s Day or during the Festival.
Where’s your favorite romantic getaway for Valentine’s Day?
If you’re like me and love going out to a restaurant with a group of adventurous friends, because it means you get to sample even more different dishes, the thought of traveling solo may give you pause. How will you consume enough meals to taste all of the local dishes? What if there are multiple dishes you’d like to sample, but you’re just not hungry enough to order (and eat) them all?
As someone who both loves to eat and savors my time traveling solo, this issue has come up for me time and again. Over the last two decades or so, I have definitely honed what types of food I seek out when I’m on my own on the road, to maximize the number of different bites and how much local cuisine I get to experience. And fortunately, as solo travel has become more commonplace, I don’t get nearly the amount of looks or raised eyebrows as I used to when asking for a “table for one.”
How to Dine Solo, Your Own Way
“Oh no,” you’re thinking, “I just don’t feel comfortable eating at a restaurant by myself.” Don’t worry, that’s okay! Several of the options below involve street food or eating-on-the-go. And even at a proper restaurant, a lot of times there is a bar where you can sit and order food and socialize, or possibly a communal table where you may encounter others traveling solo or other friendly diners.
For those of you ready to dine solo at a restaurant for the first time, it can look like whatever you’re comfortable with. I’ve seen people reading a newspaper or a book as they eat alone, which for many eliminates what would otherwise be a socially awkward situation. Others spend it on their smart phone, reading, planning, or staying in touch with friends. Some solo diners sit back and quietly take in their surroundings. And others will just keep a deep focus on the food, slowly savoring each bite.
Personally, I tend to either be introspective, reflecting on my day or strategizing for the day ahead, or will go into people-watching mode. I’ll sit and quietly observe the diners around me inside the restaurant, pretending I am at an outdoor table at a cafe watching the passers-by. Occasionally, I’ll read – usually a long-form newspaper article or an article to learn more about a tourist attraction I already visited. And when the food comes, I do my best to channel my focus on truly enjoying the flavors as I eat. Do what works best for you!
Foods to Seek Out
To eat well during solo travel, my basic strategy is to cobble together a bunch of different bites on my own, by sampling the offerings of different street food vendors or enjoying small plates of food at a sit-down restaurant – in whatever combination feels right on a particular trip. Here’s what to look for:
Appetizers
I mention a lot of specific types of cuisine below, but in fact, any restaurant can be turned into your own customized version of small plates by simply ordering 2-3 starters or sides instead of a main dish. Just ask before you order, and most places will be happy to accommodate you. It can also be helpful to specify if you want your dishes to arrive all at once, or to be brought out one at a time.
Bakeries
Bakeries and pastry shops (or bakery sections in supermarkets) can offer a quick bite in the morning to leave room for a larger lunch. You can also get a taste of local life by sampling the baked good of choice, whether sweet or savory. Or get a bunch of smaller items to sample for lunch, as nibbles throughout the day, or snacks to consume while out hiking.
Breakfast or Brunch
You may not have thought of it this way before, but many breakfast or brunch options can really be several different types of food all on a single plate together: eggs, potatoes, vegetables, and a sauce. Even if breakfast is included with my accommodation, I will still sometimes go out somewhere for a more authentic first meal of the day, and a lot of countries have very local breakfast options that you won’t see anywhere else (check out this post on Singaporean breakfast for the details on one of my favorites). And many breakfasts can be ordered for take away if you don’t feel like dining alone.
Buffets
In general I’m not a huge buffet person, but when I’m on the road for a limited time, it can often be the most effective way to sample many different dishes of the local cuisine. Often hotels or hotel restaurants will serve food buffet-style, and you typically don’t need to be a guest at the hotel to partake. Do be sure to check ahead of time when buffet meals will be available, as in certain locales it will only be offered on 1 night each week (or only specifically feature local cuisine on a single night).
In my experience, there are a fair number of Indian restaurants all over the world that have lunch buffets or set menus available. When I am traveling solo and seeking out Indian food, I will also peruse a menu in advance to see if there is thali available, another option which is a built-in way to try lots of dishes. A thali is basically like a sampler platter and will include bread, rice, and a mix of other curries and dishes, all for a reasonable price. Usually a vegetarian and meat thali option will both be offered.
Set Menus
You’ll see a set menu option more often for lunch, with a choice of a few dishes for each course, sometimes including a beverage and/or dessert. Set menus offer a good value on price as well. One of my favorite places to take advantage of a set menu is in Liechtenstein, which otherwise can be a pricey place to dine out. Keep your eyes open starting in the late morning when these specials begin to be advertised, and find a spot that strikes your fancy or fits your budget.
Spanishrestaurants
I have one word for you: tapas! These small plates have become trendy in a lot of places outside of Spain, so in many countries you’ll be able to find a Spanish restaurant where the dishes come in small enough portions that you can pick out a few different ones and still have a reasonably sized meal for one. Of course this works in Spain as well, and is especially fun at a busy market stall. Plus, many tapas places I’ve visited – both in Spain and elsewhere – have a bar where you can sit and order dishes, which can be a more social experience for solo travellers.
Street Food
There are many cities renowned for their street food offerings, but even for most others, you can find delicious and inexpensive bites on the go. Street food lets you eat with your other senses first – hearing the sizzle of a piece of meat on a grill, smelling enticing aromas waft toward you, or seeing where the locals queue up for the best bites. I’ve had some of my best street food experiences in Asia (Bangkok & Chiang Mai in Thailand have possibly been my favorite spots – for being able to get small bites from a lot of different vendors). But if you keep your eyes open you’ll see street vendors in most cities you visit, and there are also a lot of places where Food Trucks are trendy and ever-present with many types of cuisines represented. Go ahead and sample whatever catches your eye. Or tempts one of your other senses.
Tasting Menus
On the opposite end of the budget spectrum, you can also get a fair bit of food variety on the high-end of dining, especially when there is a tasting or degustation menu available. And at several of these more fancy establishments, you’ll even have the option to sit at the bar or communal table, which can be a less intimidating experience for the solo diner. This can be true even at Michelin-starred places, like the satisfying tasting menu I recently enjoyed at Stockholm’s Ekstedt (sitting at a communal table where I met and chatted during the whole meal with another solo traveller!).
Or the very reasonably priced tasting menus I enjoyed on my own at Restaurant Bieberbau in Berlin and several restaurants around Malta.
This is another cuisine that naturally lends itself to having a lot of small dishes – called mezze – cobbled together to form a meal. Think grilled meats, falafel balls, hummus, babaganoush, and tabbouli in small portions that together can form a satisfying single meal with a whole lot of variety. Middle Eastern cuisines can also be well-suited to vegetarians, as many of the mezze are vegetable- or legume-based.
Vegetarian restaurants
Despite not having meat on the menu, vegetarian and vegan restaurants can offer some of the best variety of bites on a single plate. I usually encounter a mix of starches, proteins, and vegetables that can be mixed and matched for a single dish. Sometimes there are even small plates available. And although I’m not a vegetarian, some of my most recent memorable bites dining solo have been at vegetarian establishments.
Of course, there is no one right way to eat well while traveling solo. This list is really a starting point for you to venture out and figure out what types of cuisine and dining formats feel comfortable for you, and help you to maximize your time alone on the road. And of course, as you become a more and more seasoned solo traveler, use this list as inspiration for that food or restaurant to try next!
Do you notice yourself gravitating toward certain foods when you travel solo? What things have you found most helpful to keep in mind for eating well when you travel on your own? Any other advice or cuisines to add to the list? Share your tips below!
The only way to know good gelato is by trying lots of it and getting your taste buds accustomed to the nuances of this frozen delight – and don’t worry, I did a lot of “research” about where to locate the best gelato in Italy during the three years I lived there. And of course, on my recent return visit.
Let’s just say that I’ve had A LOT of gelato.
And as you enjoy as much gelato as I have, it becomes easier and easier with time to pick out the best spots.
I’ve organized my recommendations by city, presented alphabetically, but you’ll notice that I didn’t include every town I’ve visited or even every gelateria I’ve liked. Only the gelato spots that I found served a really superlative product made this round-up.
The best gelato in Italy can be found in tourist centers as often as off-the-beaten-path spots, but there is a taste that gives you pause and delights with intense flavor and smoothness at all of the locations I’ve listed.
So go ahead, find excellent gelato and treat yourself daily – just like the Italians do!
More About Gelato in Italy
The Basics.
Gelato comes from the Italian word for frozen, but let’s be clear, gelato is not just “Italian ice cream.” It is a very discerning product made with a different process and a different philosophy, which is what makes the end result so memorable.
Proper gelato is served a bit warmer than traditional ice cream, so it is less likely to make your teeth hurt or get an ice cream headache, but this higher temperature is also one of the key parts that contributes to the flavor and texture that makes gelato so delicious – more on both below.
There’s a lot you can tell on sight as well. Many of the places with the best gelato will keep it inside opaque metal canisters, and really good gelato does not stay in those intricate mounds that many of the tourist spots will feature.
And where do you find your gelato in Italy? At a gelateria, of course!
Flavor.
Gelato is also unique because it aims to capture seasonal ingredients at peak freshness.
So while your favorite flavor may not be available depending on when you’re in Italy, gelato flavors you may not like in other places are likely to be exceptional when you go. The two flavors that are universally delicious when you’re in Italy are some of the most local – pistachio (which comes from Sicily) and hazelnut, or nocciola (from the northern Piedmont region).
The intensity of gelato is also related to the churning process, which means less air inside compared to ice cream, leading to bolder, more concentrated flavors. And that warmer serving temperature also has that flavor intensifying effect.
Texture.
Gelato is churned differently from ice cream too, going at a slower pace that results in less air getting mixed in and a denser product. The combination of its composition and warmer temperature leads to the elasticity that gives you that perfectly smooth texture as you savor each concentrated bite.
Even if the flavors are wonderful, anything less than a creamy texture will take away from the gelato experience.
It’s good for you!
No, really! Okay, maybe not quite, but you may be surprised with the density and concentrated flavors of gelato that it actually has fewer calories than ice cream. Gelato tends to use more milk than cream and does not involve egg yolks like many ice creams, so there is also less fat involved.
So go ahead, indulge.
Gelato Etiquette.
Honestly, this is probably not much different than your ice cream experience in other countries. It’s completely acceptable to ask for a taste of a few flavors before you decide what to buy, even if there’s a huge line building up behind you.
The size of your gelato will determine how many different flavors you can get. Typically this is well-signed and you’ll see different size cups displayed at the top of the counter, with both the price and number of gusti, or flavors, indicated. In general, a “small” allows you to pick 2 gusti and you’ll need to get at least a “medium” sized one to enjoy 3 different ones.
Also, be ready to state whether you’ll be having your gelato in a cup (coppetta) or cone (cono).
Every gelateria does things its own way, so even if you get a cup, you may be lucky enough to get a mini cone or wafer stuck on top:
Fortunately for all of us, gelaterie deal in volume, so this is a relatively inexpensive snack that won’t break your budget. An afternoon gelato is part of the daily ritual for many Italians, and it can easily be part of yours when you visit.
Like coffee in Italy, you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised about how cheap it is compared to ice cream at home. In most places it costs only €2.50-3 for a small-sized gelato, often going up in increments of just 50 centesimi, or cents – half a Euro.
TIP! Buying gelato is a great time to spend some of the pile of Euro coins you’ve likely accumulated during your visit!
The Best Gelato in Italy – by City
So, let’s get down to it, where do you go for the best spots that aren’t just catering to tourist whims but producing authentic, seasonal, bold, and smooth gelato?
Bergamo
Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille
I don’t usually find my favorite gelateria right on the central square, but this spot on the Piazza Vecchia of Bergamo’s elevated upper city delivers. Fruit flavors are super intense with just the right balance to not be too tart or sweet, and the creamy flavors are perfectly smooth. Fancier places will dot your stroll from the funicular or city gate, but it’s worth waiting until you get here to order an afternoon gelato.
I didn’t fall in love with Bologna my first trip, but this was one of the outstanding places that helped change my mind on a return visit. Yes, the gelato really is that delicious. Like many of the spots on this list, they offer both traditional and more inventive flavors, but everything really is outstanding and hits that incredible balance of flavor and texture.
There are many similar-looking gelato shops along the shore of Lake Como, but this is the only one I return to again and again. Despite its touristy location, the many locals who also stop in tell you that this is just delicious gelato. It is easy to spot with the many people hanging around or stopping to sit outside as they enjoy what I imagine for many is part of their daily routine.
Gelato is all about the freshness of the ingredients, and this gelateria calls itself artisanal for a reason. Lots of top gelato lists include this spot as the best in Florence, and I definitely agree. Stroll to the far side of the Arno River from the historical center and don’t be dissuaded by the line you’re likely to encounter. This gelato – especially any one of their signature flavors – is worth the wait!
You’ll see the signs proclaiming the many accolades this gelateria has received, and one taste will have you convinced as well that the awards are well-deserved. It is just so spot on when it comes to flavors and textures. And you’ll have the occasional experimental flavor thrown in with classics done very well.
There are now a couple of Milan locations of this spot (plus ones in Bergamo and Parma), but after 3 years of living in Milan, I had to put my favorite Milano gelateria in the Milan section, of course. You won’t have to venture far to locate the main Milan outpost just a short stroll from the main Cathedral, Milan’s Duomo. The standards are done exceptionally well, with bold pops of flavor and silky smooth texture you’ll want to savor. There are usually a few seasonal creative flavors to enjoy as well. Possibly my all-time favorite flavor was a savory squash one I enjoyed my last autumn living there:
Are you a chocolate lover? Then this is your gelato heaven. Named the ultimate or maximum (massimo) of gelato, the flavors do not disappoint. In addition to the fruit and nut flavors you’d expect, there are also usually close to a dozen of variations just of chocolate, from different types of chocolate, to mixtures involving orange or different liqueurs. And it’s even better than you’re imagining right now!
Rome has no shortage of gelato places, so when one is doing well enough to expand to multiple locations, you know it’s delicious. There are several flavors that you won’t find at most spots, but my hands-down favorite is the crema di pinoli, the cream of pine nuts which is perfectly flavored and velvety to devour. Get in line with the local families taking their children after school and find out why it’s their go-to spot in Rome, too.
Many of the gelato flavors you’ll find at Fatamorgana are inventive, from savory flavors to spices and herbs being mixed with your more typical chocolate or fruit base. Sure, there are the more usual flavors here, but many Fatamorgana branches are frequented by locals looking for something that is creative without sacrificing what makes gelato so delicious. It’s not the only creative gelateria I’ve sampled in Rome, but it’s the only one that also creates that perfect gelato texture with its more unusual ingredients.
There are two very popular gelato spots on the same piazza in San Gimignano – and both are likely to have lines out the door! Don’t worry though, Dondoli is the one you want. The queue moves fast and you will be treated to some incredibly creative, strong flavors and a silky smooth texture regardless of the flavor you choose. This Gelateria is known for its signature flavors, like the Crema di Santa Fina (with saffron cream and pine nuts) and Champelmo (pink grapefruit and sparkling wine). The view as you enjoy your gelato is pretty great, too:
Venice is probably my least favorite major Italian city for gelato, but the best of all the ones I’ve tried is definitely this spot. The flavors are strong and each bite is smooth to savor, even though visually it looks less smooth than the other place I’ve featured. I also love it for serving gelato with one of its branded wafers, even when you get gelato in a cup.
Keeping locals happy in Verona since 1939, this historical gelateria continues to be the go-to spot for locals and with good reason. It is central and in a high-end location, giving just a touch of luxury, and has a wide list of flavors and other sweet treats to keep everyone satisfied.
Gelato may be more complex than you expected, but the good news is that great gelato comes down to two key things – flavor and texture. And given the frequent gelato consumption by Italians, all it takes is a conversation with any locals to get directed to the best gelateria nearby. As good as Italian food is, it’s always worth saving just a little bit of room for this afternoon (or evening) snack.
Did your favorite gelato in Italy make this list? What other gelato spots do you recommend for my next visit? Is there anything else you look for in a great gelato? I’m always looking to expand my gelato horizons =)
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Whether you’re a visitor who’s looking to do some aperitivo hopping one of your nights in Milan, or you live in the city and are looking to add some new aperitivo spots in Milan to your repertoire, there are a wealth of options to choose from.
If you’re not familiar, aperitivo is not only a pre-dinner drink to whet your appetite, but also includes some small snacks at a minimum. And in some cases, a full buffet of food that can substitute for dinner. Check out a previous blog post for more about aperitivo, what drinks are typical, and why you want to experience it first-hand.
In general, aperitivo lasts from around 6 to 9pm, although exact hours vary place to place. If you’d like to sit outside or arrive several hours in, you may want to make a reservation. Otherwise, your best bet can just be to show up early and snag a table then. Most drinks are in the €8-12 range, although the posher places will be a bit pricier. And at some – but not all – places, your second drink (seconda consumazione) will be at a slightly cheaper price.
Milan is the city where aperitivo originated, so there are seemingly endless options for where to go. Two neighborhoods have clusters of places for aperitivo spots in Milan: Corso Sempione close to the Arch of Peace (Arco della Pace) and Milan’s canal zone called Navigli, close to the Porta Genova metro stop on the green line. If you’re going to do some aperitivo hopping, the Navigli area is probably the best place to go as it has the most variety and certainly the largest number of options.
But there are great options for aperitivo spots in Milan all across the city, which I’ve listed in two different categories, based on how much food you’ll get along with your drink:
Come early to snag a seat on their outdoor terrace overlooking the Duomo, Milan’s central cathedral. Aperol is one of the main spritz ingredients, and there cocktail list has an interesting variety of Aperol cocktails to choose from (as well as other drinks). Small bites will arrive with your drinks, and are great nibbles as you sip your drink and enjoy the view.
The cocktails here aren’t quite as nice as the Aperol Terrace listed above, but I think the view is better! And it’s a great option when the line at Aperol Terrace is so long it is snaking down the stairway like it was on my most recent visit. There are a few small nibbles that arrive with your drinks but the view of the Duomo will keep you lingering.
TIP! Part of the reason it’s less crowded here is that it’s a bit harder to find. When you get to the entryway below the terrace, follow the signs with arrows back to the left to take the further elevator upstairs.
Relatively new to the Navigli canal area is this bar with incredibly delicious cocktails and small bites fit for even the most discerning Milanese tastes. It’s also a bit down the canal from where most people enter so my friend and I had no wait to sit outside on a weekend evening. Definitely a great first stop for “aperitivo hopping” in this area packed with great options or as the pre-dinner drink and nibbles I enjoyed when I visited.
Off the yellow line of the metro and several tram spots, there is a cocktail bar and sister restaurant next door, and the cocktails are exceptional. There are tons of options, all well-balanced and with some interesting flavor combinations. There is a fairly sizeable plate of snacks that will arrive with your drinks, which can even be made vegetarian – just ask your server.
Located in the Navigli canal zone, this is often a first stop for me on a night of aperitivo bar hopping because the cocktails are excellent and if the outdoor seating is full, it is equally fun in the quirky inside seating area. And when your drink is served, in addition to a small plate of charcuterie and cheese, there is usually some kind of cute accompaniment. My most recent cocktail there came with its own custom postcard, which includes the recipe for the drink.
The only Milan spot to be voted as one of the World’s 50 Best Bars, the cocktails here are works of art and whimsy. It’s quite tiny, so either reserve or be waiting outside the door when the bar opens. And plan to spend a bit of time here, as it may take you the first half hour just to leaf through the book that serves as the menu and make your choice. The drinks are not only delicious, but fun – the one meant to be like a science experiment is bright blue and arrives in a beaker with what looks like soap suds up top. Another in a high heel. So yeah, it’s that kind of place, with small plates of nibbles to accompany your cocktails creations. One of the most unique aperitivo spots in Milan you can visit!
This spot is a bit further up the Naviglio Grande in the canal zone from the main entry point, so it takes a bit longer to fill up and get busy, so it’s a great spot to seek out later in the evening. The cocktail list is interesting and vast, but presented in a manageable little booklet to help you decide based on what flavors you’d like. There are quite a few small snacks that come with the drinks, but there is also a full kitchen so if you stick around long enough you can also order a proper dinner dish, which is also tasty.
This is another spot in the Navigli zone, with small snacks so the focus is on the cocktails. There is a shorter set list of cocktails here, which makes deciding a bit easier than some of the other spots on this list. And since it is on a side street and not along the canal itself, it tends to be more relaxed while still lively. Even arriving later in the evening, I’ve never had to wait long for a seat.
Of this list of top aperitivo spots in Milan that include a full buffet, I like the cocktails here best – and you’ll pay a premium for them. Which I don’t mind, because there is a food buffet that rotates throughout the night and is also quite good. This is an especially coveted aperitivo spot when the weather is warm, as there is a vast outdoor garden with a lot of seating. It’s also a spot to dress on the nice side, officially “smart casual.”
This is the only spot in this post that is along the Corso Sempione stretch I mentioned above, as I find it to be a cut above the other nearby spots I’ve frequented. Outdoor seating goes quickly, so come early or reserve, and enjoy the variety of their high-quality food buffet. And if you’d like to hop around I’d start here first, but there are many other places to check out nearby as well.
I’ve grouped these two Navigli locations together because they are sister bars that share a kitchen, and are only a few doors apart from one another. You’ll get to enjoy piping hot pizza by the slice and dessert options, things that are not part of your typical aperitivo buffet. I’ve probably been to these the most of any spots on the list, because if you’re going to hit up one spot for aperitivo, you’ll get fed well here and get to experience the nightlife of the canal area. And the names come from the cocktails I believe, not the parts of New York, so you’ll see many different variations of a Long Island Iced Tea and Manhattan on the cocktail menus.
Spritz has a similar buffet to Long Island & Manhattan, and is also located in the Navigli area. Its cocktails are notable for the many variations they offer of the spritz, one of the typical aperitivo drinks. If you’re planning to reserve a spot, they usually organize into two seatings: one around 6pm and the second around 8:30pm. There is quite a lot of indoor seating as well, so it’s also a place you can probably just show up as long as it’s not too late in the evening.
Was your favorite aperitivo spot in Milan left off the list? Or which of the places above is your go-to for aperitivo? Let me know in the Comments below.
If you ask most Italians which Italian regions have the best cuisine, they’ll typically tell you Emilia-Romagna (where Bologna, Parma, and Modena lie) and Tuscany, the region of Florence. Tuscan cuisine, involves grilled meat and hearty dishes that leave you satiated.
There is no shortage of excellent spots to eat in Florence, here are the top spots that I recommend:
Breakfast
Depending on what area of the city you’re staying in, finding a sit-down restaurant for breakfast might be tough. I’d recommend either booking accommodations somewhere that includes breakfast orfinding the local “bar” (coffee place) where you can grab a pastry and cappuccino at the counter (see more about typical Italian breakfast here).
If you do go out for breakfast, watch out for the coperto (cover charge) that can be exorbitant if you sit down at a table at a restaurant in the touristy parts of town, especially near Piazza della Signoria. The one place I can recommend is in Piazza Duomo, which in general seems to have more reasonably priced options:
On the corner of Piazza Duomo, I’ve popped in here for a coffee, pastry, and one of the mini breakfast sandwiches. It’s a bit pricey, but a convenient location if you are looking to grab a quick bite early in the morning before visiting the Duomo.
I’ve listed the more casual eateries or those with a special lunch menu in this section, although they are all also open for dinner if you’re looking for more casual dinner options. These are all wonderful options for refueling in the middle of a day of taking in the sights around Florence:
All’Antico Vinaio
(Sorry this blurb is so long, but trust me, this place is worth it!) All’Antico Vinaio is actually two places, one right across from another, and quite close to Piazza della Signoria (where the Palazzo Vecchio and Uffizi Gallery are located). Usually when I go, one side of the street has a very long line, and there is a shorter line for the location on the even-numbered side of the street for the “osteria.” Don’t worry, the food is the same at both, and you’ll see bread and produce being hand-walked across the street by the staff. It’s best to go early or late, and to visit on a weekday, to avoid when can sometimes be quite long lines.
So what makes this by far the best panino (singular of panini) I’ve had in my 3 years living in Italy? First, the bread. It is like a thick foccacia, with a thin crust on the outside and a soft inside that can stand up to the sandwich while still absorbing its delicious flavors. Second, the quality of the meat, cheese, vegetables, and spreads. Everything is fresh and rich with flavor, like good Italian ingredients should be. There are a number of different panino flavor combinations on the wall, or you can ask the staff – all of whom seem to be at least conversational in English – for their favorite flavor combinations with the meat of your choice and they will make you a delectable panino! My favorite toppings are the porcini mushroom and black truffle spreads.
A panino here is quite large, so some opt to share, although I always get my own despite never actually managing to finish one. You can also order house wine by the glass, which is self-serve. Can you tell this is my favorite lunch spot in Florence? 😉
Il Bufalo Trippone
For when the line at All’Antico Vinaio is a bit too long for how hungry you are – or you want to beat the crowds for another excellent panino – the nearby Il Bufalo Trippone is a gem. It is tiny and there are not many spots to sit inside, but the quality of the sandwich and of the wine available by the glass in particular, are excellent. The meat selection is more limited than other spots, only including various pig and wild board salami and prosciutto, but even the vegetarian concoction recommended by the friendly owner was delectable.
TIP! Il Bufalo Trippone is also a shop with wines and food products available at a great price, so this is also a good destination to pick up culinary souvenirs.
This is really two sister places next to each other, one is a paninoteca and the other is a sit-down place, both located under a quaint stone archway between two streets. I have only been to the trattoria side, which is lively during lunch and has really good plates of typical Tuscan dishes and a few that are more interesting flavor combinations. If you’re looking for a comforting sit-down meal a bit off the beaten path, this is your spot.
Also listed in my Top Picks post as one of the Off the Beaten Path spots places to check out even if you’re not planning to have a meal there, the central market is also a great casual spot for lunch (or dinner). There is an array of different food stalls and communal seating, so you can order from any place you and your fellow travelers would like, and then enjoy your food sitting together. It’s also a good place to pick up food-based souvenirs, especially if there is some specific culinary product you enjoyed as part of your meal.
I included this osteria as a lunch option because of their fabulous set menu for 10 Euros, which includes a pasta course (primo), a fish/meat course (secondo), filtered water and ¼ liter of white or red house wine. Of course, you could have dinner here as well. At lunch on a recent weekday, the crowd was about half local and half Italian, a respectable ratio for dining in central Florence. Portions are large and tasty, and even though it was not part of the set lunch, I loved the budino di castagne dessert, a chestnut-flavored crème caramel with amaretto crunch on top. Dessert and espresso are minimal add-ons – my total bill with both was a mere 14 Euro.
Procacci has been around since when Italy still had a king – in fact it was an officially approved royal supplier – and still occupies its historical shop in one of the fancier parts of town. Despite exuding old-time Florentine charm, it is a welcoming place to pop in for its famous truffle spread sandwiches and a glass of wine mid-day. Both will give you pause, they are that good. And the panini are pretty small, so it’s easy to sample a few different flavor combinations.
TIP! This also serves as a gourmet shop where you can buy food products to take home, and Procacci is the only place I’ve found in Florence where you can do a (free!) tasting of different balsamic vinegars. If you won’t make it to where they originate in Modena, Italy, definitely do the tasting here!
Gelato
Yes, if you are in Italy, gelato is its own food group. There are a lot of decent tourist spots to get a gelato, but if you want excellent gelato it is well worth the trek two bridges down from the Ponte Vecchio to the far side of the river for:
Great gelato is about both texture and flavor, and the gelato at La Carraia nails both. Flavors are intensified versions of their main ingredients, and the gelato is smooth and rich. Many people name this gelateria not only as their favorite in Florence, but in all of Italy. And a short stroll back to the closest bridge offers and excellent spot to enjoy your gelato and great views of the city.
If you’re sticking more to the central tourist area, my second favorite gelateria in Florence is:
When you cross the Ponte Vecchio from the side of Florence with the main tourist sites, hang a left on the first street on the other side and you’ll find La Strega Nocciola partway up the street on the right. There are a couple of other locations that are convenient, including one by the Duomo. I love their unique selections (lavender is my favorite) as well as the intensity of each flavor, especially the nocciola – the hazelnut flavor also in the name of the gelateria.
First, gelato gets its own section, and now aperitivo?? If you don’t know what I mean when I say aperitivo, take a moment to check out my post here about why aperitivo is in integral part of any day, especially one spent touring around Italy. When dinner is still a couple of hours away and you want to grab a spritz with a view, there are a lot of spots (some with really fabulous views) to frequent, although a couple stand out from the rest:
This is an actual record shop if you go upstairs. Or just come to sit outside for aperitivo, with a view of the Duomo from its location close to the Baptistery. In addition to the usual aperitivo cocktails, there is also a decent selection of artisanal Italian beer, including a variety on tap. And if you’re lucky, the night you’re there they’ll make their own potato chips in-house to accompany your aperitivo drink
On the opposite end of the spectrum is the very lovely La Terraaza – the terrace, in Italian – that overlooks the Arno River and a lovely view of the city. It is on the roof of the Continentale Hotel, and can be accessed through the hotel lobby by taking the elevator to the 6th floor. Cocktails are pricey at 19 Euros each, but the drinks come with a plate of assorted small bites and the view and vibe is worth it.
Hands down my favorite restaurant in Florence, the food seems to taste better with each visit. This is one of the go-to places for the famous Florentine steak, bistecca alla fiorentina. It is a thick cut of meat seared on the outside and near-raw inside. They will not ask you how you like your meat cooked because there is only one way to prepare it correctly. The most enjoyable meals I’ve had here have been getting their set menu – a mix of house antipasti (get the liver crostini!), pasta primi (which you can opt out of if you’re not super hungry), and the bistecca with side dishes. My favorite sides are the fagioli all’ucceletto (beans with tomato) and the sauteed greens, although of course the roast potatoes are delicious too and always go well with the meat. Alright, just get all 3 side dishes. Traditional dessert that usually comes with the set menu is cantuccini with Vin Santo. In fact, if you check out my list of the Top 6 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Florence, the best versions of most of those typical foods I’ve consumed have been at Il Latini, also including the ribollita pictured above. If you have only one dinner in Florence, this should be it!
TIP! Make a reservation at least 1 day in advance. Il Latini has a 7:30pm and 9/9:30pm seating. The tourist rush is usually for the earlier time, so I recommend reserving for the later one, and then show up any time from 8:45/9pm on as tables begin to free up around then.
Trattoria Sostanza
Another location for typical Tuscan cuisine, including the bistecca alla fiorentina, although this trattoria has specialties you can’t get anywhere else. It is most well known for the butter chicken, which is the moistest chicken breast I’ve ever eaten, with the butter bubbling up and crusting the top even as it’s served still in the hot pan. The artichoke tart is also popular, although it is a less hearty dish with less texture. The homemade meringue cake with wild berries is a perfect dessert bite if I’ve ever had one – the crunchy meringue, chocolate, smooth cream, and berries are in perfect proportion. A slice of this is not to be shared 😉
TIP! Make a reservation several days in advance, for the 7:30pm or 9pm seating. Again, the later reservation is the less touristy one. Also note, tables are communal.
Although filled with tourists, this is also a spot frequented by locals and fortunately has a large seating capacity to match. Reservations for dinner are recommended, although going around 9pm on a weeknight, two of us were seated only waiting about five minutes. The menu is vast, although I especially enjoyed the selections off the truffle menu, available seasonally starting in early autumn. ZaZa is also close to the Mercato Centrale (see the Lunch section above).
What were your most memorable meals in Florence? And as you can see, in Florence I tend to stick to the places with down-home traditional Tuscan cooking. How do you pick which restaurants to check out when you travel?
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Tuscan food is world-renowned for its flavors and comfort, and include things that were considered peasant food, with simple, bold flavors and a richness that make this many people’s favorite regional cuisine in Italy. While visiting Florence (which is located in the region of Tuscany), here are my top items to seek out to explore the dishes local to the area:
Ribollita.
This is a bean soup, thickened with bread, and made with a hodgepodge of vegetables (a peasant’s soup of sorts, with various leftovers in the household traditionally being added in). Although a hallmark of Italian cuisine is having a few ingredients in the correct proportions, ribollita breaks that mold entirely. When Season 4 of MasterChef Australia (TM) filmed some episodes in Italy, one of the challenges was guessing all of the ingredients in a traditional ribollita – and there were 28!
Crostini di fegato.
Slices of bread, which are sometimes toasted, and topped with a chicken liver pate. It is very typical of the area, and available on most restaurant’s menus. I happen to love liver, and try to grab at least one crostino with each of my meals in Florence.
Bistecca alla fiorentina.
Literally meaning “Florentine steak/steak made in the Florentine style” this is a particular type of bone-in, thick cut steak which is seared on the outside and fairly raw on the inside. When prepared well, there will be huge amounts of flavor and very easily-chewed bites of delectable beef. Most restaurants have a minimum order of either 500 grams (~1 pound) or 1 kilo (~2 pounds). A dish that is meant to be shared!
This is a typical side dish (contorno) made with cannellini beans that are stewed with tomatoes, garlic, sage, and other spices. While it sounds simple, you have not fully experienced the flavor of cannellini beans until you taste this preparation. There is a hearty richness to it that is deeply satisfying and a great accompaniment to the grilled meats you’ll find on nearly every menu.
Tuscan red wine.
There is a wealth of excellent red wine that comes out of Tuscany, from the house red in a woven basket already on your restaurant table when you sit, to the famed varietals of Chianti, Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino . . . the list goes on. Sample some with your meals and find your favorite – maybe even take some home as a tasty souvenir of your trip.
Cantuccini con Vin Santo.
You will see this on most dessert menus (the list of dolci) as either cantucci or cantuccini, which are tiny nut biscotti to be dipped into the Vin Santo, a local dessert wine. Vin Santo almost tastes like a tawny port sometimes, although it is not actually fortified as a port would be. The nuttiness and texture of the cantuccini and the strength and flavor of the Vin Santo moistening them are a perfect pairing.
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