How to Spend One Day in Bergamo, Italy

September 26, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Imagine a raised plateau, like one of the mesas of the American southwest or Uluru (formerly Ayer’s Rock) in central Australia. Usually you’ll encounter a formation like this out in nature.

But in northern Italy’s town of Bergamo, there is a large plateau with a UNESCO World Heritage old town perched at the top, surrounded by modern Bergamo, Italy.

It is this division that makes Bergamo unique, split into the historical, raised Città Alta with its meandering pedestrian cobblestone walkways and the lower Città Bassa with a bustling, modern city.

Bergamo is so close to Milan that it houses one of the three airports of the metropolitan area, and is easily reached by car or train in around an hour (more details in the ‘Getting There‘ section below).

The upper city has incredible charm and a quite lengthy history, with all of its attractions close to one another in easy walking distance, making it an ideal destination for a day trip.

Here’s how to make the most of a one-day visit:

Around Town

Don’t be overwhelmed by the number of items listed below as sights to see. Bergamo is a town made for wandering, and the Città Alta is so compact that you can easily stroll between everywhere I’ve listed at a pretty leisurely pace.

Piazza Vecchia

The Piazza Vecchia, or old square, is the central space in Bergamo’s Città Alta, with many of Bergamo’s sights either on the square or nearby. It is a gathering place that is especially lively on weekends, with many visitors and street performers clustered all around.

Palazzo della Ragione

Right on the Piazza, this regional palace served many functions over many centuries, and has exhibitions that rotate seasonally.

My favorite spot is underneath the open archways at street level, where there is a centuries-old sundial, that still marks the passing seasons. At noon daily, the sun will still meet the mark on the ground corresponding to the month and day.

Campanone Civic Tower

If you’ve been reading the blog for a bit, by now you’ve probably picked up on the fact that I both like to climb things and also enjoy an expansive view in a new place.

Ascending this Civic Tower (by elevator or on foot) gives you the highest perspective you’ll get on the already high up Città Alta, getting a sense for the overall layout of the small area and providing some pretty fabulous glimpses of the surrounding countryside.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Just a quick glance at the outside of this stunning Basilica gives an inkling of the treasures that must be contained within its walls. Leave some time to go inside and explore, as you can easily get lost in the many works of art.

Baptistery

There is also the nearby ornate Baptistery, or Battistero, where babies would be baptized before being allowed into the main church.

Originally built inside the Basilica, it has now been relocated and is officially part of the Cathedral.

Duomo (Cathedral)

Pretty much every town in Italy has a main cathedral, and Bergamo is no exception. While beautiful, most visitors find it overshadowed by the Basilica, and will spend more of their time there.

Off the Beaten Path

There is plenty of wandering to be done on foot around the Città Alta, which I recommend leaving time to do. As you stroll, here are two spots of particular interest:

Convent of San Francisco

This ex-convent is a quiet spot away from most tourists with a lovely inner courtyard and a great view over the surrounding Città Bassa down below.

The complex also houses the History Museum of Bergamo, which I didn’t visit, although I loved strolling along the grounds despite my expression in the shot below.

Venetian Walls

What good is having a city on an elevated plateau without some defenses?

For over three centuries Bergamo was part of Venice’s extended empire, hence the aptly named Venetian walls. Yes, the walls are old, but really I love exploring any old city walls – not just for the history they represent, but also for the great views!

Best Bites

Città Alta

Ristorante Trattoria Bernabo

Although there are several higher-end restaurants scattered across Bergamo’s Città Alta, I’m all about down home cooking of the region when it comes to Italian food.

This restaurant not only has wood seating and décor that speak to the city’s history, but delivers basic, humble, and delicious local cuisine to satisfy your hunger and nourish your soul. It’s an especially great spot for lunch, with daily set menus and specials.

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

Although this spot is located right on the Piazza Vecchia, the main square, it hits that perfect balance between intense, pure flavor of the ingredient and creamy texture that I look for in a gelato.

Their fruit flavors are particularly delicious, with very concentrated flavor, and this ranks as one of the favorite gelato spots after three years of living in Italy (and much gelato consumption, trust me).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s also lovely to grab a drink anywhere there is outdoor seating, there are several spots with beautiful views around the Città Alta where you can linger and enjoy.

Città Bassa

Taverna Valtellinese

I once drove from Milan to Bergamo just for a few hours to meet someone for dinner. It seemed like a hassle to go up to the Città Alta just to eat (although that would have been very possible as well), so I found this gem in the Città Bassa, the lower, more modern part of the city.

The cuisine hails from the Valtellina region almost due north of Bergamo, although there are some general items you’d see on any Italian menu as well.

The highlight was the carne al bastone, a two-foot long stick of white ash tree with beef wrapped around it, cooked, and then served on the stick! I think I was so enthralled I completely failed at any picture-taking, but trust me, it’s a sight to be seen – check it out on the left plate in this photo here.

Getting There

Arriving in Bergamo

Orio al Serio Airport

As I mentioned before, one of Milan’s 3 major airports is located in Bergamo, and principally serves low-cost carriers like Ryanair. You can also arrive at Bergamo’s airport by transfer from other Milan-area airports.

From the Bergamo airport, there is a bus transfer that will take you to the center of town, and there are of course taxis as well.

Bus/Train

Other than arriving by bus from the airport (see above), the easiest way from the city of Milan to Bergamo is by train. You can check schedules and fares on the TrenItalia English website.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There are multiple train stations in Milan. Be sure to check which one you’re departing from, although you can search for all options at once on the TrenItalia website by selecting “Milano (tutte le stazioni).”

Driving

Driving was my most frequent method of arriving in Bergamo, which is right off the major east-west highway in norther Italy that runs between Turin and Venice.

There are ample parking lots in the center of Bergamo’s Città Bassa (lower city), with several well-signed garages that you’ll find by a blue sign with the letter P.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Thorough instructions on How to Get to Bergamo by all the methods listed above.

Going up to the Città Alta

All of the ways listed above will get you to the Città Bassa, but if you want to get to the historical Città Alta, there are two main methods of arriving:

Funicular

The funicular, a tram up the steep slope connecting the Città Bassa to the Città Alta, is the main way to arrive for most visitors.

You can check out the timetable at the Funicular link above (it is Funicular C at the bottom of the page), but it runs so often, just go to the station and buy your ticket when you arrive.

Walking

The less-frequented path along a few streets is a bit steep, but worth meandering along for the lovely views along the way.

While facing the funicular station, start ascending to your right and follow the street until it ends and winds around to the left. It’s a little over a kilometer to the city gate, and will probably take around 20 minutes to arrive at the Città Alta entrance:

However you decide to structure (or not structure) your exploring, the town of Bergamo is an incredibly fun day trip with quite unique views as you see and stroll the two levels of the city.

One I liked so much I returned to again and again during my time living in Milan!

Have you been to Bergamo? Any spots you enjoyed that didn’t make my list? Any other questions about making the trip? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Cefalù: Perfect Day Trip from Palermo, Sicily

June 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

Palermo, Sicily makes for a great weekend trip, and there are also great spots around the city that you can easily fit into your trip (like Cefalù) especially if you make your visit a long weekend.

I’m so glad that my friend Isabel and I planned for an extra day, which let us enjoy one of my favorite formats for 3-day weekend trips – a city day on each end with the middle day to spend outdoors or doing something active.

Visiting Cefalù involved an active morning followed by a relaxing afternoon swimming and lounging on the beach – and we were still able to be back to Palermo easily in time for dinner. And the hiking, the beach, and the sights in town and in the hills above Cefalù were all quite memorable.

Here’s what we loved doing on this day trip from Palermo:

Things to Do

Around Town

Cefalù Cathedral

The building itself is distinctive, and it looks like a cross between a fortress and a church, with some very unusual architecture. Once you go inside, the interior is like a traditional church, with some beautiful artwork.

A visit doesn’t take long, so it’s worth stopping in even if you only have a few minutes.

Beach

After hiking up and down a mountain on a hot day, there’s nothing I like to do more than head to the beach and take a dip.

Cefalù’s beach is easily accessible from the center, and not far from where the hike lets you off in town. And since Sicily is further south than other parts of Italy, it was pleasant swimming weather and a refreshing water temperature already in mid-late June when I visited.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There is a fair bit of beachfront, so walk a bit if needed to find a good spot. There are also many areas with lounge chairs that you can rent, so find one with spots available.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re lucky like we were, people will be walking up and down the beach offering massages at discount prices. Especially if you’ve been hiking, it’s a great way to relax tired muscles.

Shopping

Cefalù is enough of a tourist destination in summer that there are many shops lining its medieval cobblestone streets.

All sorts of Sicilian specialties are available, from the traditional blue and yellow tiles to culinary specialties like pistachio pesto and local wine. It’s a great spot to pick up some souvenirs.

Off the Beaten Path

Hike to La Rocca & Temple of Diana

Besides the beach, this hike above town was the main reason we visited. It is steep enough to have beautiful views at the top, but overall it was not too strenuous, taking around a half hour to reach the top.

Once you ascend, there are spread out ruins and sweeping views of the coast to appreciate as you linger as long as you like.

Where to Eat – Best Bites

Non Solo Pane

This is a great spot to pick up bites to go before (or after) your hike, as it has a lot of portable food and is located near the bottom of the stairs that take you to and from the first section of hiking.

I grabbed some of Sicily’s most portable food – arrancini – stuffed rice balls with different fillings, which are then coated in bread crumbs and fried. There is a reason this dish is a local one!

Ristorante Helios

There are savory food options as well, but I can only vouch for the pastries, which were a delicious snack. And let’s be real, the rest was breakfast the next morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Get at least one item with pistachios, which are grown locally in Sicily. You can taste the freshness and flavor of the nut so well.

Obviously with the morning hike and food on-the-go I didn’t end up having any sit-down meals, but there are quite a lot of highly-rated restaurants around town, especially for seafood.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re looking for an Italian seal of approval, I find Google reviews to be more accurate for places in Italy since locals are more likely to review a restaurant there than on one of the other review websites.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Come by train

Trains run very frequently from Palermo and along the coast in between, and it only takes a little less than an hour to arrive. Unless you’re already renting a car for a road trip around Sicily, the train is the most convenient way to get to Cefalù, and the ride from Palermo is quite scenic.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Check the schedule ahead of time for your return trip to Palermo, so you have a sense of what your options are.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s not unusual for trains to run late in Italy, so leave a bit of extra time if there’s a specific time you need to be back in Palermo.

Avoid August (if you can)

August is peak travel time across Europe, and you’ll have a far more crowded experience if you visit then.

I had a great visit to Palermo and Cefalù in late June – it was warm enough to swim and shops and restaurants were open, but it wasn’t super busy with tourists yet.

Are there any sights around Cefalù that I missed? What other trips from Palermo or around Sicily would you recommend?

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Top 9 Things to do in the Le Marche region of Italy

May 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 15 comments

East of Tuscany on the Adriatic coast is one of Italy’s lesser-known regions, Le Marche, where you can avoid the tourist hordes and enjoy some pretty incredible Italian experiences and cuisine.

I’ve visited many times, for relaxing long weekends and outdoor adventure, for wine tasting and relaxing on the beach, for hiking and exploring walled cities. The region of Le Marche is probably a destination where you’ll want to rent a car (and you can check out my Best Tips for European Road Trips), but you’ll be so glad to have the flexibility to explore off the main train line along the coast.

You may never have heard of Le Marche before – and travel guidebooks don’t help much – so I’ve compiled a list of the top things to do while you’re there. And once you’ve mapped out the attractions you’ll want to visit, I recommend finding a nearby guesthouse to stay, where you can chat with the owner for some insider information on the area and have an even better experience.

Top Things to Do

Relax on the Beach

Le Marche is a coastal region, with its eastern border along the Adriatic Sea, so there is no shortage of beaches for swimming, suntanning, and relaxing.

If you’ve been to Croatia you know that Adriatic beaches tend to have pebbles instead of sand, and Le Marche is the same for the most part. Which is why Senigallia is a popular beach destination, as one of the only sandy beaches in the region.

The other main attraction in terms of Le Marche beaches is the Conero Riviera, south of the regional capital of Ancona, with some absolutely stunning coastline.

Several of the beaches can be accessed on foot or at least closely approached in a car. One exception is the lovely Due Sorelle (two sisters) beach, only accessible by boat from Numara, and usually a less crowded spot to enjoy the sea.

Eat: Savor Local Specialties.

I’m no expert on Marchegiana cuisine, and like all over Italy it varies from town to town, but Marche like other parts of Italy is known for its regional food specialties.

Probably the most well-known across Italy are the beloved olive ascolane, which are olives stuffed with a ground pork mixture, then breaded and fried.

Less likely to find in other parts of Italy are some of the primi, or first courses. Vincisgrassi is a local variation on lasagna, usually baked with chicken livers, and you’ll often seen passatelli pasta featured on menus, made by passing a breadcrumb dough through a shaper until it emerges in the shape of spaghetti.

Various sausages and game dishes are also common, as is brodetto, a fish stew made traditionally with 13 types of fish and seafood, to represent the number of people at the Last Supper. Whatever corner of Le Marche you find yourself in, one thing is guaranteed – you’ll eat well!

Caves & Undergrounds

Basically, there are lots of caves and undergrounds all over Le Marche. As long as you’re not scared of enclosed spaces, there are some great spots to check out:

Frasassi Caves. The largest cave system in Europe, these are a must-visit spot if you’re in Le Marche! The claim to fame here is that the initial chamber of the Frasassi Caves is so large that the Duomo di Milano, Milan’s Cathedral, could fit completely inside. There is a long, meandering path you’ll follow if you take basic tour (guides are mandatory for a visit) or if like me, you’re a bit more adventurous, there are 2 spelunking tours through these natural caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Although no pictures allowed =(I love going behind the scenes, so signed up for one of the “Speleo-Adventure” tours, and had a blast. You’ll change into coveralls and tall rubber boots, because you’ll get quite muddy along the way. And do ask ahead of time about language. My tour was in Italian (and fortunately my Italian is quite good), but if you don’t speak the language, be sure there’s someone who can relay safety instructions to you in English before you book.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While you’re there, it’s a short car ride or a reasonable stroll from the entrance to the Frassasi caves to the parking lot where a leisurely path starts up the mountain and brings you to the Temple of Valadier, a church inside of a cave!

Camerano. Not nearly to the scale of Frasassi, and a bit different since this cave system is man-made, there is an excellent tour available in English that will take you through the passageways. At different points in time there were spaces used for religious worship, wine-making, and as a shelter during wartime. An incredibly interesting spot to check out if you’re nearby.

Wine Tasting

This is Italy, so of course there are incredible wines to sample. They are made from grapes local to the region, and meant to pair well with the local cuisine. This is just how Italy rolls.

The wines you’re most likely to encounter on a Le Marche menu are the Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno – two basic, local reds – and the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a mineral-rich white wine meant to pair well with local fish and seafood dishes.

Antica Cantina Sant'Amico in Morra d'Alba — Antica Cantina Sant’Amico in Morra d’Alba

An absolute favorite though is the relatively unknown appellation of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, A red wine made from lacrima grapes in (yep, you guessed it) the town of Morro d’Alba, this usually young red is very particular in taste, so you’ll probably love it or hate it. It is fruity and aromatic, while fairly dry.

The wine can vary greatly from year to year, so enjoy a tasting and then decide what to buy if you visit a winery. Otherwise, you’ll definitely see it on restaurant wine lists around the region.

Explore Walled Cities

A function of the rolling hills of Le Marche, the region is dotted with walled cities who built the structures as a means of defense. Today they are picturesque spots to visit, usually with an Old Town of centuries-old buildings and cobblestone streets inside.

My favorites:

Urbino. Urbino is definitely the largest walled city on this list, with the most to see inside. It is the birthplace of renowned artist (and Ninja Turtle) Raphael, and has quite a few museums and a Cathedral inside. It is well-lit in the evening, and has many winding cobblestone streets and various lookout points to see the surrounding countryside.
Gradara. Much smaller than Urbino, Gradadara is known for its castle, which you can explore along with strolling on the city walls. Supposedly packed in summer, my friend and I had a pretty solitary visit in September, enjoying the beautiful views of the countryside and the views inside this hilly town.
Corinaldo. Very teeny, Corinaldo packs in all you need from one of Le Marche’s walled cities. It has cobblestone streets, great views of the surrounding area, and delicious food. It also has 2 quirky claims to fame – a polenta well that according to legend fed the city during a siege & also a house with just a facade, built by a heavy-drinking father to send pictures to his son overseas that the money being sent home was being put to good use. Now there’s a plaque to mark the spot.
The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

Take a Hike

There are a number of hikes throughout the region, but the main hiking destination in Le Marche is Monti Sibillini National Park. There are several biking and hiking itineraries available, including a vast loop that will take multiple days to complete. If you’re interested in a multi-day trip, there are accommodations available along the way.

Visit the Acqualagna Truffle Festival

The Alba Truffle Festival in Piedmont in northern Italy may be more famous, but Le Marche’s own fall Truffle Festival in Acqualagna has the same renowned white truffles and is definitely less crowded and easier to explore.

There are outdoor stands with various vendors of truffle products and whole white truffles for sale. There is also a large indoor area, selling nearly everything under the sun.

And since it’s the season of truffle, whatever restaurants you visit in the area in the October/November timeframe will have plenty of dishes with white truffle shaved over top.

No Italian event centered around food would be complete without wine as an accompaniment, so the festival also has wineries represented in various booths, and a whole stand just for wine tasting, with bottles from around the region.

Even if you’re not there in fall, there are two Acqualagna black truffle festivals, one in February and the other in August (although I don’t recommend an August visit to Le Marche, see the ‘When to Go’ section below).

READ MORE: How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

Go Skydiving

You probably don’t associate Italy with skydiving, but the region of Le Marche specifically is known for being a great spot for it. It even made #8 on this list of top skydiving sites in the world!

On my first trip to Le Marche, several of the other people in the traveling group went skydiving for the first time in Le Marche and absolutely loved it. Whether it would be your first time doing it, or you have a lot of jumps under your belt, Le Marche is THE PLACE to skydive.

Inhale the Aroma of Sunflowers

Even if you didn’t know that sunflower fields abound in Le Marche before your trip, any road trip in the region at the right time of year will inevitably drive past lovely yellow expanses.

Sunflowers typically bloom in early summer, with the exact dates depending on the weather conditions that year. If you love flowers, or sunflowers in particular, you can see beautiful fields of them all over Le Marche.

When to Go

There are lot of great times during the year to visit Le Marche. What will be best for you of course, all depends on which activities appeal to you most:

Sunflowers are typically in peak bloom in late June through July.
The Acqualagna Truffle Festival typically takes place in late October and early November.
Fall and spring are probably the most comfortable seasons for hiking.
And of course the beach will be most pleasant in summer, and less crowded before and after.

I visited in early July when I saw sunflowers, I did a road trip to walled cities and caves around Le Marche last September, and I went to the Acqualagna truffle festival and nearby towns in early November. All wonderful trips =)

The only thing I would caution against is visiting in August. Pretty much all Italians (as well as other Europeans) take vacation then, so the beaches and attractions are likely to be packed.

And for me, a big part of the appeal of visiting Le Marche is heading to a destination *without* the crowds.

The diversity of activities to do in Le Marche is quite amazing, and even if you’re looking for a relaxed itinerary, there are plenty of places to kick up your heels and enjoy the countryside or the coast. Just like most of my all-time favorite destinations, there are a lot of varied activities available and beautiful scenery along the way.

Have you been to Le Marche? Any things to do that I missed and should add? What activities are most likely to draw you to visit a new place?

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The Day Trip from Rome I Can’t Recommend Enough: Orvieto

March 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 20 comments

Italy is blessed with many picturesque hilltop towns, and I’ve been to many, but Orvieto is one of the best for its sweeping views of the surrounding valley and incredible history and beauty of the attractions in town.

It’s an easy day trip from Rome by train, which is how I visited. Even gazing up at the walled town from the bottom of the funicular when you arrive, Orvieto is distinctive and breathtaking, and doesn’t disappoint when you ascend to the top.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Rome

My favorite day trips in Italy in general involve having enough interesting sights to fill the time (although not too many to be overwhelming), beautiful views, and great food options.

Orvieto has all of this, and millenia of history that is visible seemingly everywhere you turn. Read on for all of the wonderful attractions I was able to squeeze into my single day there.

Things to Do

Around Town

Duomo (Cathedral)

One of the more stunning cathedrals I’ve seen in all of Italy, the Orvieto Duomo is the main draw to the city for many.

The outer facade is incredibly intricate, mixing different styles of sculpture, mosaics, and design. Its beauty is evident when you first venture inside as well, in particular visiting the frescoes of the adjacent San Brizio chapel.

Orvieto Underground

If you read my Naples Cheat Sheet, you know that I find underground passageways intriguing.

This is especially dramatic in Orvieto, as the underground rooms and passageways extend underneath nearly the entire city, dating back to several hundred years before Christ. Of course, you’ll only see a section of the underground areas on the approximately hour-long tour that begins close to the Duomo, but these include areas for raising pigeons and the location of the olive press, with beautiful views over the valley.

Torre del Moro (Moro Tower)

It’s worth climbing the tower’s 250 steps for the views at the top across Orvieto and the surrounding countryside, and the tower is located right in town. On the September day when I visited, there were quite a lot of bugs milling about at the top, but walk around to find a comfortable viewing spot as they tend to congregate toward just one side of the viewing platform.

Church of Sant’Andrea

The church itself is nice and includes a distinctive multi-sided bell tower, but the real treasure is its extensive underground to see with a guide.

It is well worth the extra fee for the friendly, bilingual tour guide who walks you through the history underneath the main level, including fabulous mosaics and ancient roads.

Pozzo della Cava

A series of caves with history going back nearly 3,000 years, this attraction is privately owned and very tourist-friendly with explanatory signs in several languages.

I found it helpful to visit after the ‘Orvieto Underground’ tour, which helped me put into better context some of the areas I was seeing. And be sure to pop into the restaurant, stand on the clear section of plexiglass in the floor, and look down if you dare.

Off the Beaten Path

Church of San Giovenale

The church is Orvieto’s oldest and contains some beautiful artwork. It’s worth stopping into on this end of town, which is a lovely area to explore on foot.

Town Walls

Orvieto is a walled city on a hill, and some of the best views you’ll have of the surrounding valley is by strolling across them on foot.

Communal Gardens of Orvieto

I strolled into this site right by the funicular by accident, but was so glad I did because it offers lookout points and great views of the valley below Orvieto.

This was one of the few spots in town where I saw more locals than tourists.

TIP! The opening hours change by season, so be sure to leave enough time at the beginning or end of your day to spend some time here.

Pozzo di San Patrizio

This well was constructed as a backup water source in the 1500s when Pope Clement VII was hiding out in Orvieto.

Today it’s a beautiful architectural remnant from that period located on the other side of the funicular than the Communal Gardens, behind the remains of an Etruscan Temple.

Where to Eat – Best Bites

Duca di Orvieto

I had done a bunch of research about restaurants in town serving the local fare, and even walked past a few and checked out their menus on my walk into the center, but somehow I overlooked this restaurant that is the single place I’d recommend to anyone visiting.

How did this restaurant make such a deep impression on this self-proclaimed foodie?

Well for one, a lot of their recipes are from local families dating back to the 1500s!! (No, that is not a typo. When was the last time you dined on 16th-century specialties?)

A lot of the dishes take many hours or even days to prepare, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find them anywhere else in town. And the result is incredibly rich and delicious.

I enjoyed a local pasta cooked in red wine for many hours and a beef dish slow cooked with pears and nothing else.

The locals know that this is the spot to go, as I was the only non-Italian on my visit, and even the local police officers took their lunch break here.

Definitely not to be missed! If you’re not sure what to order, rest assured, the staff is wonderful and will steer you in the right direction.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

If you are coming to Orvieto as a day trip from Rome, your best bet is to arrive by train. There are many trains making the journey, so you’ll have several choices to find the schedule that works best for you.

I definitely recommend getting an early start if you can, so you can maximize the time you’re in Orvieto during tourism hours.

You can search for trains between ‘Roma’ and ‘Orvieto’ on TrenItalia’s English website here, including the cost and traveling time for each option.

So your transiting goes smoothly, there are a few things to keep in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There is always the danger of a train strike (sciopero) in Italy, and these happen more often than you’d think. Ask at your accommodations or do an internet search before choosing which day you’ll visit Orvieto.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most trains from Rome to Orvieto leave from platforms at the far end of the station, so leave extra time to walk there to avoid missing your train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! As the day goes on, trains can become progressively more delayed, so you may want to see when you’re ready to leave the city before committing to a timed train ticket.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! When you arrive in Orvieto, you will be in the lower part of town while the main attractions are all on the hilltop. Fortunately, the funicular station is immediately across the street from the Orvieto train station, and it runs relatively frequently, so you’ll never be waiting for long in either direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re planning on a full day in Orvieto, take a picture of the return funicular schedule, especially if there’s a specific train you’re trying to catch back to Rome in the evening.

I spent a really delightful day in Orvieto and felt like I had pretty thoroughly explored the town in that time.

It would certainly be a good spot to make a home base for a few days as well, and I met some tourists who were doing just that, with leisurely days sightseeing in town and on other days driving a rental car to other nearby attractions and wineries.

However you fit it into your Italy itinerary, this is a spot that is definitely worth a visit!

Any sights in Orvieto that I missed? What other day trips from Rome would you recommend?

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Cantinone Gia' Schiavi How to Eat Like a Local Where to Find the Best Cicchetti in Venice Local Tapas

How to Eat Like a Local: Best Cicchetti in Venice, Italy

November 16, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

What is typical, local Venice food? This was one of the initial questions I researched before my first trip to the city.

I often seek out regional specialties when I travel, as another dimension of getting a feel for a destination.

Plus, the local fare is usually best close to the source.

I had some preconceived notions about Venetian food – like seafood, of course – but the surprising part of my research when looking for what to eat in Venice led me to local, Venice tapas that I had never heard of before: cicchetti (chee-KETT-ee).

Venice Food: What are Cicchetti anyway?

Cicchetti is a word in Venetian dialect to describe small bites like tapas, and takes many forms.

The most typical cicchetti you’ll see is some form of topping on small slices of baguette-like bread (think crostini, although I don’t think I’ve ever had my cicchetti bread toasted).

Also common are polpette, which are meatballs or meatball-like mixtures made with fish or vegetables, then breaded and fried.

You’ll also see a fair amount of battered and fried fare, from fish to stuffed squash blossoms – it all depends on the place.

Regardless of the specific type, cicchetti will top any local’s list of what to eat in Venice.

You’ll see Venetians popping into places for a drink and a few cicchetti all day long, and especially at the end of the work day. Some people treat these Venice tapas as an appetizer, like the Milanese aperitivo, to be followed by a sit-down dinner later in the evening. Or a mid-day snack.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Others pick a single cicchetti location in Venice where they’ll linger for several hours, during which time they’ll eat enough cicchetti to count as a meal.

Or you can always stop into a few different bars as you might do sampling tapas in Spain, consuming a beverage and a cicchetto or two at each place.

Now that I’ve traveled to Venice on multiple trips, I’ve tried my fair share an obscenely large number of cicchetti spots – and have some favorites and definite opinions on the best cicchetti in Venice.

But when it comes to what to eat in Venice, nothing beats sampling these Venice tapas.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In general, wherever you are outside the central touristy area, you can spot the locals’ favorite bar by the crowd gathered outside, so keep your eyes open as you stroll around.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Watch the opening hours and days as some Venice cicchetti places are open late into the night, while others cater more to the breakfast and lunch crowd, shuttering by 7pm or so.

I have visited all of the cicchetti spots listed below.

My Venice cicchetti picks are listed in order of preference (with my favorite bars first), and also in clusters of places that are close to one another geographically – so this is an easy-to-use guide if you’d like to cicchetti bar hop.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re wondering what to eat in Venice as a solo traveler, cicchetti are ideal! You can grab them on the go or sit at a Venice tapas bar soaking up the atmosphere without feeling out of place.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

If you’d prefer to have a cicchetti tour instead – and let the tour guide do all the hard work – there are plenty of organized options available as well.

Where to Find the Best Cicchetti in Venice

Cicchetti Close to Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi

I like this spot for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.

The cicchetti are on smaller pieces of bread than other places, but this just means you can try more varieties.

Plus, it is very affordable – 3 cicchetti and a glass of wine on my recent visit set me back only €5.60 (US$6).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice – the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection – so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city.

Where to Stay Nearby: Quaint Bed & Breakfast Residenza Corte Antica is just on the other side of the Accademia Bridge over the Grand Canal. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the Cannaregio area of Venice, east of the Train Station

If you’re going to cicchetti bar hop in one spot, this is the area of Venice I’d recommend you go.

In particular, the stretch along the canal walking between the first two places is away from the tourist fray and has a lot of lively spots to pop in for a drink or more formal places for dinner.

Or just enjoy the relaxed atmosphere as you stroll between these three spots:

Vino Vero

For what to eat in Venice, look no further than this gem.

The cicchetti here are both colorful and delicious, and it’s situated in a lovely spot with tables out overlooking the water. Stop by for a few cicchetti, or stay for your entire meal like many others did when I visited.

The night I went, there was even a boat tour that pulled up in the water and had one person jump out to grab some cicchetti for the passengers to sample.

Cantina Aziende Agricole Roberto Berti

I did not eat any cicchetti here, although there were several typical ones available.

I did enjoy a glass of wine though, and they have quite a great selection to choose from.

There are only a few tables outside, but this is a great spot for people-watching as it’s along the street that many locals stroll along in the early evening from the train station to this more local part of town.

Osteria al Cicheto

Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists.

This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may get lost in your quest for Venice tapas – possibly walking past the turn off from the main street the first time like I did – but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.

There is a decent amount of table seating and also spots around the bar, and could easily be a spot for a full meal.

Where to Stay Nearby: The luxurious Hotel Carlton is just on the other side of the bridge from the Santa Lucia train station. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the Santa Croce area, south of the Train Station

Hostaria Vecio Biavarol

This is the closest of the spots to the train station, making it not that far from Osteria al Cicheto (listed above). The cicchetti are also delicious, and they are more than happy behind the bar to steer you in the right direction for both the food and wine choices, in a beautiful location.

Bacareto Da Lele

This is my least favorite of this cluster of three cicchetti spots, although it’s quite popular – you’ll spot it easily by the lively crowd outside.

I’d skip the food but often enjoy a drink here and soak up the atmosphere, adjacent to the water on one side and overlooking a church square on the other.

Cantina Arnaldi

Cantina means a wine cellar in Italian, and the delicious wine selections here live up to the name.

There are also varied, tasty cicchetti and this place is the most conducive of the nearby spots for staying for an entire meal. People will linger later into the evening enjoying just one more glass of delicious wine.

Where to Stay Nearby: A brief walk from Cantina Arnaladi, recently renovated Ca’ Riza is a convenient yet homey spot (and offers rooms from singles to quadruples). Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Four-star luxury at Hotel Moresco is also just a short stroll away. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the San Marco area, just east of St. Mark’s Square

Magna Bevi Tasi

This is obviously in a very tourist-filled part of town, but is just far enough away to be a nice escape from the crowds, with some tasty bites and great beverage selection.

It’s also nice to sit outside on the busy piazza and watch the crowds as you enjoy your cicchetti.

Where to Stay Nearby: The affordable luxury of Locanda Al Leon is just steps away. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the San Marco area, south of Rialto Bridge

Enoteca Al Volto

If you are going to several cicchetti spots around Rialto (see the several other options below also), I highly recommend coming here first – the ambiance is local despite its proximity to high-traffic tourist areas, and the cicchetti are high-quality.

Cicchetti in the San Polo area, north of Rialto Bridge

The three spots below are definitely the most touristy of the list, due to their proximity to Rialto Bridge – and to each other.

Their doors are filled with stickers of international recommendations, and the clientele reflect that. You’ll hear a lot of English and other languages besides Italian, and even see tour groups clustered outside sometimes.

But they’re popular by being convenient to where visitors will already be.

And if your time in Venice is limited, these may be the places you check out for cicchetti (in addition to Enoteca Al Volto, which is also close to Rialto Bridge and listed above):

Cantina Do Spade

This is my favorite spot of the three cicchetti bars on this side of the Rialto Bridge, for its solid cicchetti choices and traditional atmosphere.

There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition. And at Cantina Do Spade, they should know – this spot has been perfecting Venice food since 1448! (No, not a typo.)

All’Arco

Another traditional place quite close by, All’Arco tends to close earlier than the other spots, so swing by for lunch or early in the evening for a great wine pour and typical Venetian hospitality.

Osteria Alla Ciurma

I find the cicchetti here a bit greasy, and there are a lot of tourists (and tourist groups) that stop by.

While it’s not my favorite food stop, it is another location quite close to the others mentioned above that has great local wine choices.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Ask about the wine in the large container at the bar.

Where to Stay Nearby:

Explore AirBNB options HERE

Check Hotel and B&B prices in Venice HERE

Want to know more about Venice and making the most of the city?

Check out my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice. I also have a fun picture series of 11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice and of course my comprehensive Venice Cheat Sheet, which includes more Venice food options, with some great restaurant options (besides all the places mentioned above for finding the best cicchetti in Venice).

Looking to book a room in Venice? Check out these great spots!

Ca’ Riza – Ideal for Solo Travelers or Groups

Locanda al Leon – Best Value for Money

Residenza Corte Antica – Quaint B&B in a Great Location

Whatever neighborhood you’re in, the Venice food scene is vibrant and there’s no shortage of places to pop in for a glass of wine or a small bite. And then you can decide for yourself where to find the best cicchetti in Venice!

Going to other places in Italy on your visit?

Wherever you’re headed, I’ve got you covered! After years of living in Milan, I’ve highlighted My Top Spots for Aperitivo there. My extensive experience will also help you Find the Perfect Place to Stay in Florence and the Best Bites to Eat in Rome. Plus a cheat sheet of all the Best Things to Do and Eat in Naples is a must-read before you go.

Where have you had the best cicchetti in Venice? Are there any questions about Venice food or cicchetti that I haven’t answered yet? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Travel Hack: Extra Items You Can Carry On a Plane for FREE

January 24, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 64 comments

As I was standing in line to board my Ryan Air flight back home to Milan from a travel blogging conference in Stockholm two summers ago, I was the vision of chaos.

There was the cardigan and scarf draped over my purse, an umbrella dangling from my wrist, and the bag of food I was holding from the Östermalms Saluhall food hall.

In addition to my purse (‘personal item’ in airline lingo) and my wheeled luggage.

I looked just a little bit different from everyone else in line holding their 2 allowed items and no more.

As everyone looked on in wonder, the flight attendants didn’t bat an eyelash and I boarded with no trouble at all.

No, they weren’t just shirking their jobs, it’s actually the *official policy* of many airlines to let all sorts of additional items on board that don’t count toward your baggage limit.

For those of you who may not know, Ryan Air is a discount European carrier that like most cheap-o airlines, make you pay extra for pretty much everything, including advance seat assignments.

But even with many (although not all) discount carriers, there are plenty of things you can wear or carry outside of the strict measurement limits for luggage when you board.

Extra Stuff You’re Allowed to Carry On

No, really!!

Many airlines even have these items explicitly listed in their official policy if you know where to look on their website.

There are actually a ton of things you can just carry in your hands if you somehow ran out of space in your luggage.

TIP! There are links to some sample policies from around the world toward the bottom of this post.

First of all, don’t squeeze the last ounce of free space out of your baggage on your way *to* somewhere, you’ll need all the wiggle room you can get on the return trip.

Inevitably, even if I don’t buy much along the way, it always seems harder to get everything to fit properly in my luggage when packing it all up on the final night of a trip.

So these tips are really intended for when you have that last item or two you just can’t squeeze in but still want to take back with you.

Here are all of the items that you can wear, hold, or have clipped outside of the allowed luggage dimensions when you board:

Jacket

Even if you’re not cold, even if you’re heading into a tropical heatwave, you can still wear your jacket when you board to free up luggage space.

And there’ll probably even be space in the overhead bin or under your seat if you don’t want to wear it for the entire flight. Or just drape it over your lap – plane rides can get very chilly sometimes.

Clothing Layers

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Sep 19, 2017 at 10:03am PDT

Coming back from my recent trip to Nicaragua, right before I boarded I needed to smush my purse into my backpack so it was a single ‘personal item’ for boarding.

Since the backpack was pretty full already, I wore my cardigan and scarf and tied my fleece jacket around my waist. Instant space creator.

You might not be able to wear all your layers for your security screening, but you sure can wear them to board the plane.

Neck Pillow

Many wheeled bags have a strap you can clip your neck pillow to if you can’t fit it inside.

This is probably the accessory you’ve seen carried separate from luggage most often besides a jacket, and some people even wear it around their neck to board!

Umbrella

I can often wedge this at the bottom of my wheeled back in between the two sides of the handle, but if you’re really strapped for space, it’s not a problem to carry this item separately.

Just put it somewhere on the plane where you’ll remember to bring it with you when you leave.

Camera/Camera Bag

In a pinch, I’ve strapped my bulky camera bag for my ‘fancy camera’ to the outside of my wheeled bag because I just couldn’t get that zipper to close with it inside.

Which is totally fine, because this is also an item that is allowed to be separate from your outer luggage dimension limits.

Hat

When you see someone boarding a place wearing their cowboy hat or wide-brimmed straw hat from the beach, it might not just be a fashion statement.

Wearing it to board can save you precious luggage space if you’re struggling to zip that bag.

Duty Free Purchases

This must be part of some secret backroom deal between airports and airlines.

No matter how bulky or numerous your duty-free items, it’s totally fine to bring them onto the plane with you in addition to your other luggage.

And in some cases, if you purchase alcohol, you won’t even receive your duty-free bag until right as you board.

Merchandise purchased at airport

In many cases, any kind of merchandise purchased at the airport (and especially takeaway food that you’ll probably consume in-flight anyway) don’t count toward your luggage.

Of course, it helps to have this in some sort of obvious container or bag as you board.

TIP! Whether you have the space in your luggage or not, liquids over the 3mL are great items to purchase once you’re through security. On my last trip, both the 500mL water bottle and the 200mL sunscreen I purchased served me well in my travels!

Reading Material

Just hold your book in your hand. There is so much queuing involved with boarding an airplane between getting scanned and making it through the jetbridge, I’m usually holding a book or e-reader in my hand to keep me entertained anyway!

Infant Accessories

I don’t have children, but if you do, there are extra allowances for bringing on board baby supplies, even if the infant will be sitting in your lap the whole time.

These include a car seat, collapsible stroller, and a bag up to 5kg/11 lbs – or more! – with food and diapers (nappies) to cover whatever the baby might need during the flight.

Medical Devices

The interpretation here can be broad, but at a minimum include a cane or crutches, collapsible wheelchair, and any oxygen or dialysis devices you’re dependent on.

All free of charge.

Of course, the exact specifications vary by carrier, and you’ll definitely want to check the specific policy of any airline you’re planning to fly.

Some strict carriers aside (hi EasyJet!), most airlines won’t stop you from boarding while holding any of the above items with you, even if it’s not explicitly mentioned anywhere on their website.

Carry-On Baggage Policies from Around the World

Many policies explicitly will list most, or all of the items above. And some carriers, like Avianca (see below) even allow balloons!

Here are some specific policies from around the world:

North American carrier

Click here for the United Airlines policy
Scroll to bulleted list

South American carrier

Click here for the Avianca Airlines policy
Scroll to “What Can You Take?” then expand “Additional Items”

European carrier

Click here for the Air France policy
Scroll down to yellow border with “Additional Items You May Take on Board…”

Middle Eastern carrier

Click here for the Qatar Airways policy
Expand “Hand baggage allowance” & see box with “Carry more on board”

Asian carrier

Click here for the Malaysia Airlines policy
See #2 and #3

Even if there is no mention in the official boarding policy of the airline you’re flying, so long as it’s not a discount carrier, in all likelihood, no one will stop you with any 3-5 (or even ALL) of the knick knacks listed above whether you’re wearing or holding them or they’re clipped to the outside of your luggage like a neck pillow or camera bag.

I’ve flown dozens of airlines, and never once been stopped with any of the above accessories as I boarded!

Happy flying!!
Lana

Do you usually carry any of the above items outside of your luggage when you board a plane? Any time that you were prevented from bringing one of them on? Anything I missed in terms of carry-on luggage tips? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Milan to Lake Como Day Trip: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como, Italy

May 30, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

When I say the word “lake,” what do you imagine? A small, oval-shaped body of water where you could easily row to the other side in a boat? A modest-sized swimming hole for a quick dip as you hike in the woods?

Your imagination has probably conjured up something relatively tiny, but the lakes of northern Italy – including Lake Como – are anything but.

Instead of your typical circular or oval body of water, Lake Como, Italy is like an upside-down letter Y or wishbone shape, and extends north to south nearly 30 miles/50 kilometers!

This was one of the first of many things that made a deep impression on me when I visited, as one of my first Milan day trips.

Even if you can’t find Lake Como on a map of Italy, you’re likely to know a few things about it.

Like the fact that George Clooney lives there. Or that it is a posh weekend and summer destination for residents of Milan, since getting from Milan to Lake Como is so easy.

This means that in addition to being curious and making several trips on my own, Lake Como was also a popular destination for guests visiting me when I lived in Milan, and I’ve been there many times across several years. It’s one of the easiest and best day trips from Milan. And one day in Como is plenty of time to take in the highlights.

One of the easiest spots to land, and with plenty to see, is the town of Como, Italy at one of the southern tips of this wishbone-shaped lake. With great options for what to do in Lake Como for a day.

The lake itself is huge, which you’ll discover standing on its shores and staring out toward the horizon where the lake continues even past where you can see.

You could easily spend a week exploring its shores, but for most visitors, you’ll probably explore Lake Como in one day.’

Getting from Milan to Lake Como

There are a lot of transportation options for a Milan to Lake Como day trip.

I most often drove to get there, but that was only because I was already living in Milan with a car!

To experience Lake Como in a day, I’ve listed a few driving options, although for most visitors the easiest way to visit will be by train, which is also included below.

From Malpensa Airport (MXP) by Car

Most of my visitors when I lived in Milan, Italy were from the US.

Como is a convenient spot to visit straight from the main international airport, known as Malpensa or code MXP, since it is already partway from the city to Lake Como.

So to fight off jet lag and see something spectacular, one day in Lake Como is a great way to start a trip, especially for flights that land early in the morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! On your first day in a new location, spend a lot of time outside and walking, to help adjust to the new time zone.

However, taxi fares from Malpensa are set prices and quite expensive (around €100!) so unless you are already planning to rent a car at the airport or have a friend picking you up by car, I recommend taking the Malpensa Express train for a much more affordable price into the city.

Then you can either drive or take the train from the city another day for a Lake Como day trip.

From Milan by Car

If you’re planning to rent a car in the city to head somewhere else – like the overnight I did once to go hiking in Lugano, Switzerland – then driving to Lake Como for one day is a great idea.

It is a pretty straightforward path on the highway, and then there are plenty of parking garages when you enter town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Once you are getting close to the town of Como, follow the signs that say Como with a picture of a bulls-eye. The bulls-eye indicates that you are headed to the centro, or center of town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Signage is equally good for locating a parking garage. Look for signs with a blue square with a white letter P inside for parcheggio, or parking. Usually each lot will indicate how many free spaces are available.

Also check out these tips for taking a road trip in Europe for some other helpful information for your journey by car.

If you do not already have plans for a car rental, it is so easy to arrive by train that even owning a car, that is how I traveled to Como for a day during many trips.

Milan to Lake Como Day Trip by Train

There are 3 main train stations in Milan – Cadorna, Centrale, and Garibaldi.

If you plan to do any day trips from Milan, I recommend staying close to one of them, and I find the neighborhoods by Cadorna and Centrale stations to be the nicest.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving on an international flight to Malpensa Airport, Cadorna and Centrale are also the main stations where you can arrive by the Malpensa Express train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Before boarding any train in Italy, be sure to VALIDATE YOUR TICKET before you board, otherwise you could be subject to a fine. Usually on the train platform will be a brightly colored box with a slot in the top for you to insert your ticket. You can find more Italy travel tips HERE.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, Milano Centrale, Milan’s Central Station, is the easiest itinerary. Usually there are several direct trains an hour that will get you to the Como San Giovanni train station at Lake Como in 35-45 minutes. You can check the schedule and prices on the TrenItalia website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni station will typically cost around €5 for the regional train and €12 for the Eurocity train.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Central Station?

Within a 10-minute walk is the exceptional Milano Dreams Hotel. Even closer is highly-rated 43 Station Hotel. For a pricier and very comfortable stay also very close by, I’ve enjoyed the Hilton Milan.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Central Station.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, if you’re staying on the other side of the city closer to the Milano Cadorna Station, it will likely be easier to get a direct train there (and just as fast as a longer transit to Centrale and then the shorter train ride from there).

Usually there is one direct train an hour that will get you to the Como Nord Lago train station right at Lake Como in around 1 hour, so check your train options in advance. You can check the schedule and prices on the Trenord website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Cadorna to Como Nord Lago station will typically cost around €5.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Cadorna Train Station?

Within a 7-minute walk are the outstanding Atellani Apartments. Slightly further is the La Cordata Accommodation. For a very centrally located and more upscale hotel, check out UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Cadorna Station.

Given the locations of the train stations in both Milan and Como, either train option above is a great, cheap, and quick way to spend the day in Lake Como.

Regardless of which train station you use for your day trip to Como, be sure to keep some key tips in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to book a direct train. In the “Duration” column, it will have a single number showing the time and no changes indicated.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The train station has plenty of machines for you to buy tickets, if you don’t want to commit to a specific train time in advance. There are several languages available, including English.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you purchase using a machine, not every machine will accept credit cards if yours does not have a pin. Have a debit card with a pin available as well for your train ticket purchase, if your credit card does not have a pin number.

Doing a Como Tour

If you’d rather avoid dealing with transportation logistics on your own, there are plenty of Como Day Trip tours you can arrange.

There are a few great Lake Como Day Trip options:

Day Trip to Lake Como and Bellagio, or

Lake Como and Bellagio Day Trip with Boat Cruise, or

Day Trip to Lake Como, Bellagio, and Varenna

For a very different view of the lake, check out this Helicopter Ride for an Aerial View of Lake Como.

There is also this Central Lake Como tour cruises to 3 towns including Bellagio and includes a visit to the gardens at Villa Carlotta.

What to Do in Lake Como for a Day

Here are the main Lake Como 1-day itinerary for your Milan to Lake Como day trip:

Lake Como

Whether you’re arriving by car or train, your drop-off point or parking spot will likely be quite close to the shore of Lake Como. And walking up to the edge of the lake is always the first thing I want to do when I get there!

There are beautiful views along the shore in both directions, and a lovely pathway for a stroll.

Boat Tour

During warm weather months, from about April to October, there are leisure boats lined up along the dock close to the Como Nord (northern) train station in Como.

With a high number of tourists, boats leave quite frequently and very affordable at around 5 Euros per person.

When you arrive at the dock, just ask how soon the next boat is leaving. It is about a 30-minute trip up and back along the adjacent section of lake, and the better boats will point out sites of interest along the way, including spots where famous movies were filmed.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Doing a basic boat tour is different from taking the fast or slow ferry to other towns on the lake, so if you want to just do a boat tour, this is just along the shore, not at the official ticket counter (see ‘Off the Beaten Path‘ below for more details on ferries to other towns).

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Cathedral

The main Cathedral of Como, or Duomo, is located right in the center of town and is a stunning example of Gothic architecture.

It is free to enter and a must-visit spot while you’re visiting. Spend as little or as much time as you like.

Porta Torre and Old City Walls

Arriving at Porta Torre, the medieval town entrance dating back nearly 1,000 years, involves walking through winding cobblestone streets away from the lake front.

Not only will you get a glimpse of the oldest parts of Como along the way, you’ll also get a great sense of this town’s lengthy history and long-standing structures.

Oldest House in Como

Speaking of old structures, be sure to stroll by what is supposedly the oldest house in Como, located above a shop at Via Natta, 1. You’ll definitely know it when you see it.

Como Silk Museum

Did you know that an overwhelming percentage of Europe’s silk production comes from Lake Como?

Ever since a Duke around the year 1400 decided to start growing mulberry trees and importing silkworms from Asia, Como has been a hub of silk production, which continues today.

This museum, located a bit beyond the Porta Torre (see above), chronicles silk’s history in the area and the various stages of production.

Shopping

I’m not always a huge shopper, but there are lots of wonderful things to get in town. There are your typical clothing chains, but also cute kitchen stores, shops with local food products, and jewelry makers. And of course, plenty of Como silk!

Off the Beaten Path on a Milan to Lake Como Day Trip

Como-Brunate Funicular

Lake Como is surrounded by hills and mountains, and while it’s definitely possible to hike up the steep incline on foot, most people opt for the funicular, which is like a steep tram.

There are some shops, sights, and restaurants up top, but most people make the trip for the lovely view of Lake Como.

There is a great viewing spot about a 20-minute relatively flat walk to the left when you exit at the Brunate station.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The funicular runs quite frequently, but it’s always a good idea to look at (or even take a picture) or the return schedule to time your return trip to Como.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The front of the lower section of the funicular is a giant window, and that’s where you’ll get the best views as you ascend and descend. Arrive early to be first in line to snag this spot!

Villa Olmo

There are many villas along Lake Como, one more beautiful than the next, and many with extensive landscaped gardens to behold.

The closest one to the town of Como is Villa Olmo, about a 20-minute walk from the center along the west side of the lakeshore (if you’re facing the lake, to the left). The outdoor areas are impressive with beautiful lake views, and the interior is a free museum open daily except Monday.

Ferries

There are many other towns along the lake, and it’s definitely doable to visit and explore one or more others during a single day, depending on how you want to spend your time.

The link above shows the schedule and fares for various destinations along the lake, or you can find it HERE. To purchase a ticket, arrive at the ticket booth on Lake Como around 20 minutes in advance of your departure.

The town of Bellagio is one of the most popular other towns for visiting, although be aware that it is approximately a 2-hour boat ride with the slow ferry and around 45-minutes one-way if you pay the surcharge for the fast ferry. And it will cost around €10-15 each direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you just want to get out on the water a bit and not necessarily see another town, the faster and more economical way is a tourist boat tour, see ‘Around Town‘ section above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If Bellagio is the main town you’d like to visit on Lake Como, it is faster and cheaper to take a train from Milan to the town of Varenna, and then take a ferry across from there, skipping the town of Como entirely.

Looking to stay overnight in Como?

Check out centrally located, affordable B&B La Rondine or B&B Volta. Or for a posh hotel stay with views of Lake Como, Hotel Quarcino.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels in Como.

Where to Eat with One Day in Lake Como

Ristorante La Cucina di Elsa

This family-run restaurant is close to the waterfront, but just far enough away that it is mostly locals who you’ll find as your dining companions. Apparently there is another branch just across the border in Lugano, Switzerland, but I’ve only been to the Como one.

‘Elsa’s Kitchen’ has typical Italian dishes with a lot of fresh seafood, with dishes that are a bit elevated from down-home cooking, so worth lingering over every perfect bite.

Locanda Barbarossa

Set inside a vast stone building, the ambiance is wonderful along with the food.

Pizza is the most popular, and comes in dozens of varieties including several white pizzas, although the northern Italian risotto and meat specialties are equally delicious if you’re not in the mood for pizza.

Either way, it’s a great spot for a lingering lunch.

Gelateria Lariana

No Italian outing would be complete without gelato.

This gelateria is along the waterfront, but somehow seems to be frequented mostly by locals – it was actually a tip from a local that led me here in the first place.

There are a few spots to sit outside with your gelato, so grab your favorite flavors, and enjoy it along with the view.

READ MORE: Best Spots for Gelato in Italy

It won’t even take a single day here to begin to understand why Lake Como is an ideal location for a summer getaway, and how it has become the ‘it’ destination for so many.

I’ve visited lots of lakes across northern Italy, and with the dramatic cliffs and mountains right up to the water’s edge, Lake Como is still my favorite.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

Looking for other Day Trips from Milan? Check out some of my favorites!

Dramatic views from the elevated city of Bergamo

Enjoying adorable Cremona, home of the Stradivarius violin

And while it would be a long day (and I recommend more time in each) it’s also possible to do a Day Trip from Milan to Florence, Venice, and Verona.

Have you been to Como? Any recommended spots that didn’t make my list? And do you have any other questions about how to spend your time on Lake Como? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

March 14, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Florence, city of art and vibrancy and signature red rooftops, is likely to make it onto most Italy travel itineraries, so you’ll need all the best information on where to stay in Florence.

It was the seat of the Italian Renaissance and boasts incredible art, both inside its many notable museums and homes and also greeting you as you stroll through Florence’s many piazzas, or open squares. Whether you’re exploring the cobblestone backstreets or strolling along the River Arno, there seems to be no end to the treasures you’ll encounter walking around town.

READ MORE: Top Things to Do in Florence

Since you’ll be out exploring on foot a lot throughout the day, it’s more important than it is in most destinations to have a good place not too far away to rest your head at night.

Whether your priority is proximity to the train station for when you arrive, being easy strolling distance to some great restaurants, or being somewhere with a more neighborhood feel, this list has something for you.

Thanks to three years of living in Milan (and lots of visitors in that time that wanted me to show them Florence), I have a fair bit of experience with the city. Plus, let’s be real, I could never turn down the opportunity to go because one of the most amazing things about Florence is THE FOOD. I mean look at how thick that steak is!

I’ve probably visited the city at least a dozen times – and almost never stayed in the same place twice! My accommodation each visit depended on who I was traveling with, their budget, and how many of us were in the group. Plus, which places were available on any given set of dates.

There are lots of lists out there with accommodation suggestions, but this list is a bit different because . . . I have personally stayed everywhere on this list!

I am lucky in that I have positive things to say about most of the places, although I did have one hotel I probably wouldn’t stay again that I’ve included at the end of the post.

Happy trip planning!

Overall Information and Tips about Staying in Florence

In the next section I’ve organized my accommodation recommendations by category, and they cover quite a range. Each property is a little different, and which one will be the best fit for you depends on what you’re looking for.

I’ve included some rough rates as a general guideline, but the exact price you’ll be able to get also depends. It can vary with the time of year of your visit, the days of the week, and which type of rooms happen to be available.

So be sure to click each link to check on prices during the dates of your stay! Even if one of my recommendations appears to be out of your price range, you might be pleasantly surprised when you do. Hotels and guesthouses often run specials with cheaper rates periodically, and will typically be more affordable in low season or during the week.

TIP! If you are visiting in summertime (June to September) I recommend that you stay somewhere with air conditioning, as it can get quite hot. Many places in Italy don’t have A/C, so definitely check!

TIP! Be sure to look closely at all listings before you book, as they may not mirror the typical availability of amenities that you are used to back home. Like whether a room is non-smoking or has free WiFi or there is breakfast included – or any requirement, really.

CHECK OUT: Travel Checklist for Booking Accommodations

Also think about your priorities for accommodation:

Are you arriving by train and want to stay somewhere close to the train station? I did this on 3 of my stays.

TIP! Be sure you check which train station you’ll arrive at, as Florence has more than one!

Do you have specific restaurants where you’ll be dining that you want to be easy walking distance back to hotel? You know I’ve done this one!

Do you want to stay somewhere close to the historical center, by the Duomo (Cathedral)?

Or do you want to stay somewhere away from the peak crowds? Or close to the river?

Do you want to stay somewhere with access to a kitchen to cook some of your meals or have breakfast on your own?

How many people are in your group? Is it more economical to get 2 hotel rooms (or a suite) or stay in an AirBNB?

Not to worry, all of the listings below include some key landmarks around Florence and the walking distance to each, and options that fit all the questions I’ve included above. Decide which destinations are a priority for *YOU* to be close to where you’re staying and also realistically how much walking you’re willing to do in a single day – it adds up quickly!

And without further ado . . .

Where to Stay in Florence

On a Budget or With a Group

AirBNB

Location: All over town!

Price: as little as $100/€80 per night or less for 2 people

Why I Liked It:

I’ve stayed at 2 different AirBNB‘s in Florence. One was a 2-bedroom apartment close to the train station for 4 guests and the other was further afield in a neighborhood east of the historical center for 2 guests. Both hosts were very hospitable and the properties were great value, especially when it was a larger apartment with the cost split four ways. It’s especially helpful because nearly all AirBNB properties will have a kitchen available so you can feel more at home and try your hand at cooking local ingredients or stick to a tight budget by not eating out.

If you’ve never tried it before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

Basic Accommodations

Hotel Nuova Italia

Location: 5-minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station, 2-minute walk to the Mercato Centrale (central market), 7-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $100/€85 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

Although the décor is a bit dated, the rooms are comfortable and this hotel is all about location, location, location. It’s only a short walk from most places, and probably quite close to everywhere you want to go. Great value for money.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

Le Stanze del Duomo

Location: 10-minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station, 2-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $150/€120 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

The name says it all – these rooms are incredibly close to the Duomo (Cathedral) in Florence, although surprisingly quiet despite the proximity. The rooms are bright and comfortable, and there was a great breakfast included at a nearby cafe on Piazza Duomo.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

More Upscale Hotels

Hotel Principe

Location: Close to the river and many great restaurants, 15-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $200/€160 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

Lots of hotels around Florence have arrangements with garages, but honestly, I’ve never had much luck since they are often hard to find. Between one-way streets, poor signage, weak GPS signals in between buildings, and street closures for markets and events, parking a car in Florence is often a time-consuming (and sometimes expensive) adventure when you can’t find your intended garage. So having their own (FREE!) parking lot out back was a huge draw for my first visit to Hotel Principe and one of the main reasons this is the only hotel on the list that I’ve stayed at more than once.

Even beyond the parking, the hotel is upscale but not too pricey, and includes a wonderful breakfast. Plus the location is great – right by the river and a short stroll to some of my favorite restaurants in Florence.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

Hotel Santa Maria Novella

Location: 2-minute walk to the Santa Maria Novella train station and many great restaurants, 5-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $300/€250 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

This is a very nice hotel. It’s also an easy stroll from the main train station in Florence, even if you have a lot of luggage. The hotel is set on a beautiful, grassy piazza near a lovely church and is close to some of my favorite Florence dinner spots. It’s also quite close to the main attractions in Florence, so it is easy to pop back during the day to rest for a bit or take a nap if you’d like.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

Wouldn’t Stay Here Again

Hotel Cestelli

While the location was great, the couple that ran this hotel was a bit awkward interacting with guests. They were weird about leaving keys behind and what time of day our group would be coming and going. And although the location was central and close to the water, it was hard to find places open early for breakfast nearby, which was not included with the room. With so many great accommodation options in Florence, I wouldn’t stay here again unless in a pinch.

Well there you have it, that’s my rundown from my many nights staying over in the beautiful Tuscan city of Florence. There are a wealth of options no matter your budget or location preference, so pick the spot that is right for you and you’ll be able to focus on enjoying your time in Florence.

Happy travels!
Lana

Do you have any questions about any of the accommodations? Have you stayed anywhere on this list? I’d love to hear about your experiences staying in Florence, let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

January 9, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 6 comments

It’s a new year with endless travel possibilities. So which travel destinations should you seek out?

Don’t get overwhelmed with the unlimited options, instead think about your travel goals for the year or even just what type of place you’d like to get to. And then pick one place for your first trip.

Maybe you want a warm beach escape during winter? Or a place that is very different culturally from where you live? Or somewhere off-the-beaten-path that won’t be overrun with tourists? Or finally make it to the top item on your Bucket List?

Regardless of your desires, this list has a little bit of something for everyone, with destinations all over the world. It’s a mix of places I’ve been and loved and spots with timely reasons to go in 2018, in alphabetical order.

Read on, get inspired, and then book that trip!

Belize

Within my first day in Belize back in May, I knew it would be my new 2017 destination that I’d be screaming from the rooftops about. Not only is a beautiful country with a wide range of adventures, historical ruins, and opportunities to relax, it is just so easy to travel there.

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As a former British colony and still part of the Commonwealth, English is widely spoken. For those traveling from America, the US Dollar is accepted everywhere and interchangeable with the local Belizean dollar at a simple 1:2 exchange rate. And everyone is so friendly and helpful anytime you need to get somewhere. Which leaves you free to focus on enjoying all of the amazing things Belize has to offer!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BYghlDwn3AQ/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Caribbean Islands

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Yes, 2017 was a rough year for some parts of the Caribbean that were devastated by hurricanes. Which makes 2018 a great year to support islands undergoing hurricane recovery as well as checking out some other islands that escaped hurricane season mostly unscathed (over 70% of them!). There is a Caribbean Travel Update website that has the latest information, island by island. Check it out HERE.

And even on some of the islands most affected by last season’s hurricanes, cruise ports were some of the first parts to re-open for tourism. A Caribbean cruise will let you island hop and ships have already adjusted their itineraries to ensure that you are getting the best vacation experience in the region.

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Israel

A destination where I’ve lived, but have also been again several times recently, continues to astound me with how much it changes and evolves with each visit. As a clueless 18-year old, while I traveled nearly every weekend, most of my meals on the road were with friends and family, or from the bakery section of a supermarket. On my last few trips I’ve savored one of the best (and most memorable) tasting menus of my life, inhaled the latest trendy street food, & sipped cocktails at a speakeasy. Not to mention some pretty fabulous wine tastings.

There are so many sites with religious and historical significance in Israel that . . . I can’t even come up with a good way to end this sentence to do the country justice, history is simply everywhere – retracing Jesus’s footsteps on the Via Dolorosa of Jerusalem’s Old City and hiking through coastal Roman ruins, palpably feeling the millenia of history that have touched this land. You’ll just have to come explore yourself!

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(Small Town) Italy

I’m not the first person to wax philosophical about all the reasons to visit small town Italy, but after 3 years of living in Milan, I can attest to how worthwhile a visit can be. While the big cities in Italy are draws for a reason, there is endless charm and authentic interaction with locals that you’ll only get when visiting one of Italy’s smaller towns.

A day trip from a major city will give you a taste of small town living, but for the real fairy tale life in the Italian countryside or seaside, carve out at least a night or two of your vacation – you won’t regret it!

Taking a holiday to Rome? Take the time for a day in Orvieto.
Heading to Milan? Make a day trip to Bergamo or Cremona.
Vacationing in Tuscany? You’ll love exploring small town gems all over nearby Le Marche.
Wandering the canals of Venice? It’s an easy train ride to romantic Verona, city of Romeo and Juliet.
On an escape in Sicily? Spend a day in the coastal gem of Cefal ù.

Malta

Malta has been on my bucket list for a while, and with its capital Valletta being named a European Capital of Culture for 2018 and hosting a range of festivals and events, there is no better time to plan a visit. An archipelago south of Sicily toward the northern African coast, it also boasts mild weather in winter and a hot but not scorching summer.

Whether you’re interested in historical sites, beautiful beaches, or adventure – or all three like me! – there is no shortage of activities to keep you entertained during your stay. Plus, almost everyone speaks English, so you’ll have an easy time during your stay.

Explore more of what Malta has to offer!

Mexico City, Mexico

Outside the Anthropology Museum. I like how they used the white stone to form the middle section of the Mexico flag. — Outside the Anthropology Museum

Another 2018 accolade is in store for Mexico City, which has been named the World Design Capital of 2018, the first city in the Americas with this designation. I last visited the sprawling metropolis known locally as D.F. (Distrito Federal, or “federal district”) nearly a decade ago and even then it stood out for the culture, art, design, and of course, the foodie culture that has since exploded all over the city.

With over 20 million people, there is no shortage of bustling areas to explore. There are tons of reasons for a visit in 2018, just remember with the high elevation, always wear sunscreen 😉

Seychelles

Most people think of the Seychelles as a luxury beach destination like the Maldives, which it is, but this African nation of islands also has a variety of AirBNB properties available at a much more reasonable cost for those looking for a value escape.

It’s a large enough destination that there are a variety of activities from visiting a nature preserve to water sports to a tea plantation. And it’s unknown enough that the beaches don’t tend to get crowded and you can have a whole stretch of pristine white sand all to yourself.

Singapore

For many, Singapore is a spot to stop briefly for a layover or a day or two en route to another Asian destination. I came for a full week, and never ran out of things to do and eat. English is spoken all over Singapore, which makes it an easy place for foreigners to get around, whether you’re shopping in Chinatown or strolling through Little India. Certainly, if you get a chance, pop in and explore!

Singapore is known for its food culture, recently taking over the title of cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world from Hong Kong and featuring street food in informal hawker stalls located just about everywhere. Plus, it has one of my favorite breakfasts ever, you’ll get addicted, too!

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Click here to explore what to do and where to stay in Singapore!

Not everywhere I visited and loved in 2017 made my list of top spots, but there are plenty of other posts up on the blog as well from my past year of travel, including some off-the-beaten-path US destinations like Detroit, Michigan and Charlottesville, Virginia.

Looking for even more travel inspiration? Also check out my Top Travel Destinations of 2017!

What destinations are inspiring you for 2018 travel? Anywhere I missed with something timely happening this year? What’s the biggest trip you’re planning for 2018? Let me know more in the ‘Comments’ below!

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6 Books to Inspire Travel in 2017

January 2, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

In case you haven’t already figured it out – I’m an avid reader. I especially like to read books set in countries where I’m living and traveling, and sometimes books I’ve selected for other reasons end up inspiring me to visit the places where they’re set.

To kick off the new year, here are my pics for the top books to inspire travel, and get you excited for your next adventure:

Crazy Rich Asians
by Kevin Kwan

I started this book right before my trip to Singapore at the end of last year, and was so hooked that I immediately read Kwan’s follow-up novel (the third book of the trilogy is expected to be released in May 2017). A bit of a guilty pleasure or beach read kind of book, there is also a great sense of what it’s like in Singapore. Although many of the characters come from very well-to-do families, there are a lot of drool-worthy descriptions of Singaporean food and the street hawkers that make eating in this tiny island nature such an adventure – you’ll want to eat your way through Singapore, too.

Down Under / In a Sunburned Country
by Bill Bryson

After reading one of Bryson’s most popular books, A Short History of Nearly Everything, I was hooked on his sense of humor and how craftily he uses levity to present facts in a memorable way. When I moved to Australia in 2012, Bryson’s book on his travels in Australia (titled differently depending on where in the world you live) was the first book I read upon my arrival. Not only are his descriptions absolutely hilarious, they are also spot on in portraying this island nation and continent. And although it was over a year later that I finally had the chance to visit some of the parts of Australia that Bryson describes, his imagery is so vivid that I still clearly remembered his passages and how exactly they corresponded to the reality on the ground. One of my all-time top books to inspire travel!

The Great Railway Bazaar
by Paul Theroux

This book chronicles the author’s trip by train from London across Asia and back. I read it during my trip to Sri Lanka a year ago – for the small part of the book that is set there – and ended up completely engrossed start to finish. Descriptions cover human nature and the train journey itself, as well as the various destinations on the train journey. For places like Vietnam where I’ve traveled before, I smiled knowingly as I read the passages, and for the countries I haven’t visited, I got a unique view of the culture through Theroux’s descriptions. Covering so much ground, surely one of the stops on this train journey will pique your interest. And in the meantime, the book will keep you highly entertained.

My Brilliant Friend: Neapolitan Novels, Book One
by Elena Ferrante

Naples is not always a destination for visitors to Italy, but this first book of Ferrante’s four-part series about two friends shows why it should be. The sometimes harsh reality of the city living in the shadow of a volcano also means that there is a vivacity to Naples – and southern Italy in general – that is just not quite the same up north. It is also a great window into the mentality of a southern Italian, and how challenging it can be to break the mold of where you were raised. Not only will you want to go to Naples, you’ll have a much better understanding of the city when you do. It’s one of those books to inspire travel you might not have expected, but will land you in an incredible destination!

Wild
by Cheryl Strayed

Raw and honest, the descriptions in this book are so vivid that I was quite surprised to find out that it had been written many years after the journey took place. In the wake of personal problems, Strayed decides to hike the Pacific Coast Trail solo. Not only was this book inspirational for me as a frequent solo female traveler, but it also illustrates how time spent outdoors can be transformative. If it’s been awhile since you’ve trekked through nature, you’ll want to get back out there after this read.

Yes Man
by Danny Wallace

Although there are some specific travel destinations that come up in this book, I took the most from its central idea – that people these days say “no” quite a bit, whether to an invitation to go out for drinks after work or a proposition for a far-flung vacation. And you open yourself up to so much more adventure and unexpected experiences by simply saying “yes” more. There will always be reasons not to take that next trip or embark on a new adventure, but you gain so much more by going anyway. I doubt most people will go to the extremes that Wallace did, but the underlying reminder is a strong one.

What would you pick as the top books to inspire travel? Which one has affected you most?

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