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Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Impressions

Naples is considered the birthplace of pizza, however the Neapolitan pizza tradition is just scratching the surface of what the city has to offer. Many people pass by Naples on their Italy travels, or stay for just a few hours when transiting, but there is such a special personality of the city that warrants a longer stay. You can read more about my impressions of Naples and all of the crazy experiences I’ve had that represent some of the spirit there in a previous post here.

Sights in Naples range from the subterranean tunnel system to opulent churches with incredible art collections and castles with incredible vistas of the harbor. The intensity and bustle of the city is matched by the variety and flavor of the many local culinary specialties, and a few days or a weekend is needed even just to eat your way through Naples, let alone appreciate all its beauty. Keep scrolling for all of the things you’ll want to spend your time doing, and where to eat some incredible food along the way.

Things to Do

Amazing art

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Archaelogical Museum

Pompeii is of course worth a visit all on its own, however the Archaeological museum in Naples itself is where a lot of the art from Pompeii is displayed. It’s an incredible collection well worth the time to explore (I spent several hours).

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Pio Monte della Misericordia

I went inside on a whim one of the many times I was walking along Via dei Tribunali, one of the central streets close to many churches and restaurants. Although it is a church, there is a fairly large collection of impressive artwork and objects, including Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy.

Sansevero Chapel Museum

The highlight of this museum-chapel is the tomb monument known as ‘the veiled Christ.’ Like all transcendent art, you see it once, and then anywhere else you are in the room, your eyes keep getting drawn back to appreciate its beauty.

Other churches of note

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Duomo

The word Duomo means cathedral in Italian, making it a top sight in most Italian cities. The Duomo in Naples is no exception, and it especially notable for the Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro, a museum of well-adorned art treasures connected to the cathedral.

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Church of Gesù Nuovo

This is a very different looking church from the others you’ll see in Naples, especially from the outside with its dark stone facade, starkly contrasting with the golden colors of its interior. It’s a popular place for locals to attend service on Sundays, so plan your visit accordingly.

Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore

Pretty much in the exact historic center, the inside is not as opulent as some of the other churches, but this Basilica boasts extensive history, including the remnants of an ancient Roman market underneath.

Around town

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Napoli Sottoranea (Naples Underground)

This is a tunnel tour well worth your time, exploring the tunnel system under the city. History in the tunnels ranges from use as a water source in ancient times to being used as a shelter during World War II, and even includes the remains of a Roman theater that is concealed by the many homes and apartments it borders.

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Spaccanapoli

This street is easily spotted from any vantage point in Naples as the pedestrian walkway that cuts a straight line through the historical center. Mentioned often in Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it is still a bustling street where locals spend their leisure time.

Porta Nolana market

Visiting a market is a must to get a feel for the true chaos of Naples. The Porta Nolana market is mostly known for its fish and seafood, although you can find typical market fare as well.

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Lungomare Caracciolo

Lungomare literally means the length of the sea, and is the pedestrian promenade along the Gulf of Naples. You’ll find many locals taking a stroll here in the late afternoon, watching breathtaking sunset views.

Amazing views/Off the beaten path

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Capodimonte Museum

There are some famous works of art housed here and I enjoyed my visit, but I appreciated the location even more for its expansive views and the popular park surrounding the museum building.

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Castel Nuovo

Close to the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito, this literal “new castle” is quite distinctive-looking and considered a city landmark, and dates from medieval times.

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Castle of St. Elmo & Certosa e Museo di San Martino

The castle and nearby former monastery/museum are both accessible on the same hilltop by either metro or funicular from the center (followed by a bit of walking). The views from both are breathtaking, and they are not very crowded – I had some great opportunities to sit and appreciate the view in solitude. Also check out the nearby Friggitoria Vomero (see below) for a quick bite.

Ovo Castle

While the castle itself has irregular hours and I did not get a chance to visit, it is located on a small peninsula jutting out from the mainland not far from the Piazza del Plebiscito. Worth a visit for its lovely views of coastal Naples, especially at sunset.

Morning in Napoli, at Piazza Dante
Morning in Napoli, at Piazza Dante

Piazza del Plebiscito

This piazza, or square, has a very different look and feel from other parts of the city. It is an austere semi-circular open expanse lined by traditional columns and the domed Basilica Reale, or royal basilica.

Best Bites (& Sips)

Coffee

Caffè Mexico

On Piazza Dante, Caffe’ Mexico is considered by many to be the best coffee in Naples. The interior is traditional as is the espresso: deep brown and intense. Local coffee in Naples packs a particularly strong punch, even by Italian standards, and the version at Caffe’ Mexico exemplifies why coffee was its own entry on my list of Top 10 Things to Eat and Drink in Naples.

Il Vero Bar del Professore

Beware imposters, there are a ton of similarly named places in the immediate vicinity of the real (vero) bar where caffè alla nocciola was created, but it is worth seeking out the original spot where espresso was mixed with whipped hazelnut (nocciola) cream. Mmmmm . . .

Pastries

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Sfogliatelle Attanasio

Open daily except Monday, take a number to join the queue for the piping hot sfogliatella, a seashell-looking pastry which is served here with the perfect balance of ricotta, citrus, and crispy outside. It is quite close to the central train station, making it an easy stop for visitors (and loads of locals).

Pastisseria Capriccio di Salvatore Capparelli

This spot is my go-to spot for babà on Via dei Tribunali, serving up a light-as-air version of the local rum cake that somehow has still soaked up all the syrupy goodness without being too sweet.

Restaurants

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50 Kalò

Neapolitans could probably argue for days over which pizzeria serves the best pizza in Naples. I had a particularly delicious one here, on a recommendation from a friend-of-a-friend who is from Naples. It’s not such a well-kept secret though, learn more about what makes their dough so special here.

Friggitoria Vomero

This friggitoria (a vendor of fried goodies), was a small, authentic spot close to the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. The smell draws you in and then you are presented with many fried options to choose from, although I think the fried polenta and fried zucchini blossoms, fiori di zucca, were my best bites.

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La Masardona

Also close to the central train station, this is another popular place that keeps the order of people waiting by taking a number. There are several varieties of fried pizza available, although my favorite bite might have been what was essentially fried macaroni and cheese (technically with bechamel, but same thing really). And best of all, you get to watch them assemble and fry your choices.

Osteria Da Antonio

A charming spot with local specialties done well and friendly service. It’s small, but cozy, and filled with lots of Italians. I dined on my own and it felt like I was being welcomed into someone’s home.

Limoncello

Limonè

Also along the Via dei Tribunali stretch and right by the Naples Underground, this factory makes several lemon-based products, including limoncello, the famous local lemon liqueur, usually imbibed at the end of a hearty meal to aid digestion (literally a digestivo). Unlike souvenir shops, at Limonè you can taste the different varieties of limoncello before you buy. I like both their traditional limoncello and their crema di limone, the cream version.

Have you visited Naples? What were your highlights? Anything I should add to the Cheat Sheet? Let me know in the Comments!

Naples Italy Cheat Sheet - What to Do and Where to Eat

9 Reasons to Visit Sri Lanka: A Destination With It All

9 Reasons to Visit Sri Lanka: A Destination With It All

Every time I recommend Sri Lanka as a travel destination to someone, the first thing that comes to mind is the great variety of activities you can do on this single island. Anywhere else, you’d have to go to at least half a dozen different destinations to get comparable offerings. In Sri, Lanka, it feels like you can do it all:

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Explore Ancient Temples

One of the highlights of my trip was visiting the Temple of the Sacred Tooth Relic in Kandy on December 31st, because not only is that an auspicious day to go, but I also ended up standing two feet from the Sri Lankan President who also visited that day! I was close enough to get a great selfie with him, but it seemed rude to turn my back on him while I was so close, so I settled for a few excited pictures. And the exhilaration of the travel magic when you happen to land in the right place at the right time for an experience that no amount of planning would have created. There are of course ancient temples all across the island, worth exploring if you happen to be nearby or even planning your itinerary around.

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Relax on the Beach

Sri Lanka is an island, so there is plenty of coastline to choose from. Along the western coast south of Colombo and continuing along the southern side of the island are a wide variety of hotels and resorts, including several all-inclusive and luxury options. The beaches on the eastern coast are more isolated, and possibly even more visually stunning. I stayed in a resort on the coast south of Colombo for a few nights, doing not much and decompressing before the more active itinerary for the 1.5 weeks after. Beaches are also accessible from many of the proper towns along the coast that have famous beaches nearby that you can check out with an inexpensive tuk-tuk ride during your stay.

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Go Whale (and Dolphin) Watching

This is one of many items on this list that I consider a “bucket list” item, and it’s so incredible to me that this is one of several once-in-a-lifetime options you have to see wildlife while in Sri Lanka. However, this is one of those activities that require advance planning and due diligence to have a good experience – you’re not likely to accidentally have a great boat trip. I visited in December, when it is peak season for whale watching off Mirissa in the south, and saw many dolphins and several whales the morning I went.

The down side? Due to the size of the boat (too big with too many passengers) as well as the poor organization and communication from the crew, I spent the most visually spectacular moments of the trip doubled over seasick, and barely got any pictures of the morning at all. Be sure if you go to: take a pill to combat seasickness (even if you don’t normally have trouble) and ensure that you will share the boat with as few others as possible. And if they put you on a boat bigger than what was guaranteed during your booking, demand something smaller as promised.

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Discover the Capital City of Colombo

Colombo is a bustling capital city, with a lot of different cultures and traditions represented, and not unlike other capital cities I’ve visited across Asia. It is a former colonial outpost, reflecting the Portuguese, Dutch, and British influences over the years. Colombo also boasts modern skyscrapers and an abundance of fancy rooftop bars with a cosmopolitan atmosphere for watching the sun set. And there are a ton of places where you feel the presence of locals, with street food stands and markets. Although I am not always a huge fan of organized tours or guides, it is worth taking in a few hours of knowledge from a local and getting a verbal history of the many nuances of Colombo that are not immediately visible.

Surf

Surfing is hugely popular on the beaches of Sri Lanka, and many visitors come just for that. You’ll see a mix of backpackers staying put for a while to do some surfing every day for weeks, tourists trying the sport for the first time, and locals taking advantage of the proximity of the waves. While unfortunately I did not get the chance to do any surfing in Sri Lanka myself, I saw plenty of beaches with surfers, with some catering nearly exclusively to the surfing community. Whatever your level of expertise – or even if you’re a complete beginner – there will definitely be an option close to you with the right difficulty of waves.

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Explore Colonial Forts

The coastline of Sri Lanka is dotted with forts that in most cases passed through the control of the three colonial powers: the Portuguese, the Dutch, and the British. I visited the Galle Fort, a UNESCO World Heritage Site in the southwest that is probably the most popular Sri Lankan fort to visit. It’s actually more like a mini city, with all of the specialized buildings needed to be a self-sufficient community. As most of the fortifications are along the coast, they are also great spots for scenic views of the ocean.

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Visit Tea Plantations (& Do Tea Tastings)

I’m a bit of an accidental tea lover, after getting into tea tastings after moving to Milan, and realizing how similar they were to the wine tastings I already appreciated. By the time I visited Sri Lanka in late 2015, tasting tea was an activity I was actively incorporating into my itinerary, and that was one of the many reasons I was excited for the trip. The good news about tea and Sri Lanka is that there are many spots across the country where you can do tea tastings and buy local tea and – especially in the central ‘Hill Country’ – lots of large tea plantations to tour and hike. Even if tea is not your thing, you’ll definitely be served plenty during your visit, so why not embrace it? You’ll learn a bit about tea, and get a better understanding of which types you most enjoy.

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Go on Safari

When I think of going on safari, I envision Africa, so I was quite surprised in my trip research that this is a popular activity in Sri Lanka as well due to the incredible wild animal populations. There are national parks all over the island where you can experience safari, with your choice depending on the time of year of your visit and which animals you’d like to see most. I did a safari in Yala National Park on the southern coast, and saw many impressive creatures, including many of the large game animals: elephants and leopards. There are plenty of options and countless tour providers, or you can plan for accommodations nearby and arrange a day (or several) of safari through your hotel.

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Eat Incredibly Well

From bowl-shaped crepes called hoppers for breakfast to “rice and curry” that comes with half a dozen side dishes, Sri Lankan cuisine was a delightful surprise. Due to its proximity to southern India, Sri Lanka has a lot of Indian influence on its food, both in the predominance of curries and also the roti bread that comes in many forms. You can have it served in what I consider a more Indian style with the roti stuffed like a burrito, or the more street food style kottu roti with the bread chopped up and stir fried on a griddle with eggs, vegetables, and your choice of meat. And if you’re feeling particularly adventurous, eat with your hands like the locals – they think that the metal of silverware alters the taste of the food, and you get the best taste by not using any.

 

While I’ve never been to India, I came back from my Sri Lanka trip calling it “India light” because it featured incredible cuisine quite similar to Indian food, but the overall day-to-day tourist experience was quite pleasant – and lacking the harassment or negotiation needed in other parts of Asia, India or otherwise. People tended to quote reasonable prices the first time you asked. And if you were not interested and said so, they left you alone.

I had such a great time visiting Sri Lanka, and feel like there were plenty of areas I didn’t get a chance to explore over my visit, so I’d go back in a heartbeat. Plus, anywhere the food is that good is always top on my list for a return trip.

What about Sri Lanka appeals most to you? What cities or activities would you like more details about on the blog?

9 Reasons to (2)

 

Where to Eat around Times Square in NYC

Where to Eat around Times Square in NYC

If you’re planning to see a lot of Broadway theater during your time in New York – or just doing some sightseeing around Times Square – make that extra little bit of effort to ensure that you eat well in the process.  There are a ton of affordable and delicious options nearby if you know where to look.

In general, a lot of places that cater mainly to tourists will be along 7th or 8th Avenues, or along Broadway.  There are a lot of excellent dining options if you walk over to 9th Avenue or go a bit uptown or downtown from the fray.  And of course “Restaurant Row,” on 46th Street between 8th and 9th Avenues is always a good bet.  If you have the time, take a stroll and grab a bite at whatever place entices you.

TIP!  Most New York addresses, and certainly those in the Times Square vicinity, are usually on a street and listed between two avenues or on an avenue and listed between two streets.

And whether you’re a planner or not, here are some delectable options in and around Times Square:

Coffee

Okay, so after time living in both Australia and Italy, I admit it – I’m a coffee snob.  Both countries have a strong espresso culture, and I have one go-to place for coffee in the Times Square area:

Caffè Bene

1611 Broadway (corner of 49th and Broadway)

Yes, it’s a chain with several locations around the city and beyond.  However, they brew solid espresso-based drinks, and have ample seating and free WiFi, so it’s a great spot for a recharge or to pick up a coffee on the go.  Not too common around Times Square.

That said, you can get coffee at delis, street vendors and from the typical American chains all throughout Times Square if espresso drinks are not your thing.


Deli

Delis are great spots for bagels or other breakfast concoctions (omelettes, egg sandwiches, and more) made to order, and delis typically have a buffet in addition to made-to-order sandwiches for lunch and beyond.  The three options below are the Times Square area delis that I’ve enjoyed the most in my two decades of theater-going.

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Dunhill Cafe

109 W. 45th Street (between 6th and 7th)

This deli is great for their central location and seating.  It’s away from the fray and close to other deli options, so I don’t usually have trouble finding a seat, and enjoy the many breakfast and lunch options available.

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Green Apple

1625 Broadway (between 49th & 50th)

Green Apple is a bit uptown from the most central parts of Times Square, so tends to be less crowded.  And you know the food options are delicious when most of the people waiting in line with you on a weekday morning are regulars who greet the employees by name.  Most people take something to go, although occasionally I’ve taken advantage of their seating upstairs.

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Star Lite Deli

212 W. 44th Street (between 7th & 8th)

This spot does not have seating, however has quick service and a variety of options that make it worth a stop.  It’s another very central location, and the bagels are particularly good.


Street Vendors/Food Markets

Part of the energy of NYC comes from the ever-present street vendors, some that specialize only in roasted nuts or breakfast pastries, and others that resemble the single cuisine food trucks that have become trendy in the US in recent years.  And on a rainy day, or if you want to be able to sit at a table to eat, indoor food markets abound.

Food Trucks/Street Vendors

You can find street food all over Times Square (including in the central pedestrian area) but there are a few concentrations of food trucks and street vendors a bit away from the fray that are worth seeking out.  Bonus is that both spots listed below are also close to outdoor seating.

  • Bryant Park – The park spans W. 40th to 42nd Streets, between 5th and 6th There are many street vendors and food trucks that congregate there, as well as other casual eateries along the periphery of the park.  Grab a bite and enjoy it in the green surroundings for a bit of nature to counterbalance the bustle of Times Square.
  • Rockefeller Center – This is another area where you’ll find a number of street food options adjacent to one another, as well as outdoor seating to enjoy your meal. The most options I’ve seen recently have been on W. 49th Street between 5th and 6th
Food trucks by Rockefeller Center
Food trucks by Rockefeller Center

Gotham West Market

600 11th Avenue (between 44th & 45th)

This indoor market is the main one close to Times Square, and has lots of seating and a huge variety of food stalls to choose from.  Great for the solo traveller who wants to be in the middle of a bustling area or a group of people with different food preferences who all want to eat together.  From tacos to tapas to sushi to charcuterie, there is huge variety here.  The market also hosts one of my favorite ramen destinations in the city: Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop.  It’s a few avenues over from the main Times Square area, and definitely worth the walk.


Sit-Down Restaurants

I have dined and enjoyed many types of cuisines over the years in the Times Square vicinity, although the restaurants with staying power that are consistently delicious skew towards the ethnic.  The Thai restaurants in particular tend to be budget-friendly.  And all are delicious representations of the ethnic melting pot that is New York, and the delicious food that comes along with it.

Gastropub

West End

813 8th Avenue (corner of W. 49th)

This casual gastropub is a reasonably quick stop for a pre- or post-theater meal.  There is a variety of food options, including burgers and small plates, and I’ve enjoyed many tasty options over the years.

 

Korean

Danji

346 W. 52nd Street (between 8th & 9th)

It is no longer Michelin-starred, but this Korean eatery serves fabulous dishes and offers many vegetarian options.  I ate there on my most recent trip to NYC, and was wowed by each of the dishes.  I recommend reserving in advance, which you can do through their website linked above.

 

Mexican

El Centro

824 9th Avenue (corner of 54th)

I first stumbled upon El Centro due to its prominent corner location and lively atmosphere.  It offers down home Mexican cooking, covering the classic plates from tacos to quesadillas to empanadas to tamales.  A great budget choice that will fill you up and put a smile on your face.

 

Toloache

251 W. 50th Street (between Broadway and 8th)

This is my favorite Mexican restaurant in all of NYC, due to the solid flavors and innovative cooking without compromising the essentials.  It’s a bit pricier than some of my other picks in the Times Square area, but more than worth it.  Definitely reserve in advance, which you can do through the ‘Contact’ section of their website.

Toloache's version of flan
Toloache’s version of flan

Thai

Room Service

690 9th Avenue (between 47th & 48th)

Room Service serves really great Thai food in a chic atmosphere and at a reasonable price, especially for lunch.  Cocktails are also memorable.

 

Yum Yum

650 9th Avenue (between 45th & 46th)

662 9th Avenue (corner 46th)

This is probably the most famous of the Thai options near Times Square, since their popularity led them to open three different restaurants in close proximity to handle the ever-growing demand for their Thai creations.  Only two remain open, but they remain great budget options and are both located on the same stretch of 9th Avenue.

 

What Times Square eateries are your favorites?  What places didn’t make my list, but should have?  Tell me more in the Comments below.

In Times Square, NYC (1)

 

Visiting Liechtenstein: A Perfect Weekend Getaway

Visiting Liechtenstein: A Perfect Weekend Getaway

Impressions

It’s been a long time since I’ve visited a country where tourist areas and restaurants boast almost no English at all. This is of course the impact of most tourists to Liechtenstein being German speakers from bordering nations Austria and Switzerland. It was a good reminder for me of what being a tourist is like for most nationalities – you arrive somewhere where you don’t speak the local language, and may only know a few words or phrases of English, the lingua franca of travel.

Fortunately I have a very rudimentary German vocabulary of maybe a dozen words, plus some mediocre “menu German.” And the Liechtensteiners were incredibly kind and helpful. Even when a menu was only available in German, all of the servers spoke passable English and were friendly and eager to help translate the different available dishes when asked. Phew.

The main focus for many visitors is Vaduz, the capital, and also the site where you’ll find most museums and also access to the Prince’s Castle. While I spent a fair bit of my time in Vaduz, I actually stayed in the nearby (and largest) municipality called Schaan. There are many restaurants easily accessible by foot in the Schaan center and it has a very different vibe, so I was glad to see another section of the country. Altogether Liechtenstein has 11 different municipalities, including ones at higher elevation you may encounter while hiking – take your time here to get out and explore a few!

Places Liechtenstein reminded me of:

  • Andorra. My first impression of Liechtenstein was how similar it is to fellow micro-nation Andorra. The driving approach isn’t nearly as dramatic as when you are getting close to crossing the Andorran border, but like Andorra, Liechtenstein is a small country with a main road and mountains on either side. They are a bit difficult to get to on account of there not being an airport, with both attracting outdoor adventurists for hiking in summer and skiing in winter.

  • Geneva. Geneva, although in Switzerland, will have many accommodation options in nearby France pop up as you plan your visit, where there are a lot of culinary options and cheaper places to stay. I found this happening in my searches for Liechtenstein as well, with many Liechtenstein or Vaduz restaurants actually boasting an address in nearby Switzerland.

  • Australia. There are a lot of bike paths in Europe, but I haven’t seen trails this well-marked since I lived in Australia. Bike trails are clearly marked indicating destinations and distances, making it an incredibly easy way to navigate Liechtenstein.

  • Stockholm. I came to Liechtenstein a few weeks after my July trip to Stockholm, and noticed a lot of the same trends. Although it is peak tourist season for many, there were a lot of local restaurants (especially in Schaan) that were simply closed for several weeks. Also, one of the breweries I tried to visit was closed the weekend I was there. Keep this in mind when you plan which time of year to come for a visit.

Things to Do

There’s more to do in Liechtenstein than you might think. See below for my top picks during your visit:

Around Town

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Kunstmuseum

Located on the main pedestrian area in Vaduz, this modern art museum has a collection that has been carefully curated by locals over the years, and involved quite a bit of sculpture and interactive pieces as well as paintings. I enjoyed all of the three exhibits I saw on my visit, and there were pamphlets in English for each room.

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Postage Stamp Museum

I wasn’t sure if I would pop in for a visit or not, and then I found out that this museum is FREE! It doesn’t take a lot of time to see it all, so it’s definitely worth checking out. And it’s nice because if you geek out like I did about visiting another micro-nation, you can buy a postcard and stamp, write and address it at a little writing table they have set up, and then the museum staff will mail it for you (yes, of course I did this!).

Off the Beaten Path

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Vaduz Castle

Some people drove here, however it’s far more scenic to take the 20-minute (steep) walking path to get to the top where this iconic structure is perched. Each section of the path has a new view of Vaduz and beyond, and it’s nice to have the satisfaction of reaching the top, as the Castle is still in use and cannot be visited. Also along the path are informative signs about Liechtenstein in German, English, and French, the only multi-lingual signs I saw during my visit.

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Harry Zech Weinbau Cantina

Although there are wineries closer to Vaduz and more tourist-oriented, this was by far the best wine I tasted in Liechtenstein (affirmed by its prevalence on the wine list at Michelin-starred Restaurant Maree – see the Best Bites section below). I’d recommend reserving your visit in advance, especially to come off the beaten path. Don’t be deterred by the Shell gas/petrol station that marks where you enter the parking lot, the white and red wines at this cantina are well-executed and with very particular flavors from the local growing area. Most visits here take place in German, so just plan to be patient for a visit in English, although all the key points will come across just fine – and let’s be real, there is no communication barrier with excellent wine to enjoy.

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Liechtensteiner Brauhaus

This brewery’s Alpagold is available on most Liechtenstein beer menus that I saw, but if you’re interested in sampling some of their more unique brews, you can visit them not far outside of the Schaan center. It’s possible to taste the different brews, and get some quite inexpensive varieties like a coffee stout or a pale ale from their ‘Club Bier’ assortment.

Amazing views

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Hiking

There is a huge variety of hiking trails, from relatively leisurely strolls to intense, steep paths that will take all day. Most hotels will offer a hiking map and advice if you ask, and you can also peruse the options through the official tourist website. Best of all, you can get to the trails on foot from many of the town centers, I accessed trails from both Schaan and Vaduz during my trip.

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Vaduz Castle (see above)

A bit off the beaten path, but accessible by foot from the Vaduz Center and the views are wonderful as you stroll up to the Castle.

Going up to top of ski slopes (summer or winter)

Although I did not go myself, locals recommended to me that taking the ski lift to Malbun is a great way to get an incredible view without having to do all that hiking. There is more to do in winter of course, but some restaurants stay open for the summer visitors (do keep in mind though that snow tends to linger at the high elevations, and sometimes there is still snow as late as July).

Best Bites

Like in nearby Switzerland, food in Liechtenstein is a bit pricey overall. This similarity is of course not entirely surprising since both countries use the Swiss Franc as their currency.

I definitely saw backpackers who were picking up fruit and pastries from the supermarket to comprise a budget meal. Even if you’re on a budget though, some places are worth the splurge and there are quite a few set menus available for lunch for relatively reasonable amounts. Here are my top picks for places to check out:

Set Lunch

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Adler Vaduz 1908

Close to the pedestrian area in downtown Vaduz, Adler/Vanini has a nice (covered) outdoor seating area and a reasonably priced set menu Monday through Saturday with 2 different options of main dishes, and the option of adding on an appetizer for under 20 CHF. The food was basic, but with great flavors and was a very enjoyable start to my weekend.

Local Specialties

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Berggasthaus Masecha

I ate at this spot off-the-beaten-path at the end of many long hours of hiking, although you don’t need to hike to get here – the Liechtenstein bus systems comes here and many people drove as well. They even had an English menu, while many spots closer to downtown Vaduz do not. While Liechtenstein cuisine is similar to German, Austrian, and Swiss specialties with a focus on meat and potatoes, this Berggasthaus stood out for its several vegetarian and salad options. It is at a fairly high level of elevation outside of the main town, and priced similarly, but worth it for the incredibly delicious dishes they prepare. Oh, and the view.

High-end Cuisine

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Restaurant Maree

Liechtenstein has a Michelin-starred restaurant! Once I made this discovery, I knew I wanted to eat there. While I did not find anything memorable about the amuse bouche sampler that arrived at the start, the dishes on the tasting menu were absolutely fantastic, especially the fish and seafood courses. There are also quite a few wines available by the glass to accompany the different flavors of the various courses. The cheese plate is wonderful but enormous, so plan accordingly, and come early enough for your meal to enjoy the sunset overlooking the Prince’s Castle.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

I’ve included a few practical tips above next to the relevant attraction. Here are a few more general tips for visiting Liechtenstein:

Country Abbreviation

Countries across Europe use 1- or 2-letter abbreviations, and the one you’ll see for Liechtenstein is FL. If you see it on a highways sign, don’t worry, you are going the correct direction. FL is an abbreviation for the German words for “Principality of Liechtenstein.”

Currency

Liechtenstein, in addition to bordering Switzerland, also uses the Swiss Franc as its currency, which you’ll see abbreviated CHF. Like in Switzerland, while the exchange rate between CHF and the Euro are close to 1:1, prices are much higher in Francs.

How to Arrive

Liechtenstein is one of the more accessible of the airport-less micro-nations, since it is close driving distance to several cities. I enjoyed my road trip there (get European road trip tips here), taking about 3 hours from Milan.

You can also get to Liechtenstein from:

  • Zurich, Switzerland in 1 hour

  • Innsbruck, Austria in 2.5 hours

  • Munich, Germany in 3 hours

If you are planning to taste and purchase wine here, or want to explore around Liechtenstein without hiking, biking, or public transit, definitely drive. Otherwise, there are many other options to get to Liechtenstein, best explained on Liechtenstein’s official tourism website.

Buses for Travel within Liechtenstein

Whether you drive to get to Liechtenstein or not, you may find yourself taking advantage of Liechtenstein’s thorough public bus system. There are a lot of routes connecting the end of hikes back to the city and the towns along the main road with one another. Your map app on your phone also likely can navigate you on the buses here.

Fares are on the honor system, and can be single rides, round-trips or day passes. You can buy directly from the driver, and I wouldn’t take my chances – one of the days I rode the bus there was a plainclothes woman who looked like a tourist checking tickets and issuing fines to those who hadn’t paid when they boarded.

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Parking around Vaduz Center

There are parking lots immediately adjacent to the central pedestrian walking area along the Städtle in the center, but they tend to have a time limit of 2-3 hours. Especially on weekends if you are willing to walk a little extra, there is a lot by the Schloss-Apotheke with no time limit that is free on the weekend. I had already checked out of my hotel on Sunday morning, so this was an ideal spot to leave the car to explore more of Vaduz before heading home without the stress of a time limit.

Picture-taking.

With mountains all around, the sun can disappear quite quickly. When the light is good, get your pictures fast, the moment won’t last long!

Have you visited Liechtenstein before? What was the highlight for you? Or which attraction is enticing enough for you to go out of your way to come? Any other questions? Let me know in the Comments below.

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Travel Superlatives of 2016

Travel Superlatives of 2016

As I reflect back on this past year in travel, there are so many memories that bubble up. Unexpected adventures, delicious meals, and shared laughter with friends. And of course, also rushing through airports, lost luggage, or barely making the last train. About half my trips were with friends or family, and the other half as a solo traveler.

Travel is definitely not all rainbows and unicorns, but as someone told me once about travel: It’s either a great experience . . . or a great story! I end this year with quite a few of both, and heaps of gratitude for all of the adventures I was privileged to experience – the good, the bad, and the random.

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Most New Countries in a Year: 11! (and a full passport to boot)

I didn’t set out this year to visit a ton of new countries, it just sort of happened. Looking back, the new countries I made it to in Europe in 2016 – 6 – is actually quite similar to the 5 new European countries I explored last year (this year it was Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Liechtenstein, Romania, & Sweden for those of you keeping track). Ditto for Asia. Last year, I went to 2 new countries, and this year the same: Indonesia & Singapore. What really put me over the top was making it to Costa Rica for the first time on my family vacation back in August, and also getting a chance to explore 2 new countries in the Middle East with my sister this December: Oman & United Arab Emirates. Thanks, family!!

FYI, my American readers, the US phased out adding extra pages to passports at the end of 2015, so if your passport becomes full like mine, you’ll have to renew it to travel even if it’s not expiring yet. The good news is that when you renew, you can choose the longer length for no additional cost. Obviously something on my immediate to-do list in the new year 😉

Hardest Time Finding a Restaurant: Berat, Albania

When you’re traveling in Albania, you seek out Berat. Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is known as The Town of a Thousand Windows for the beautifully window-filled view you get of the hillside from the river. Many people stay in Berat overnight, but it can also be visited as a day trip during a weekend in Tirana like I did with friends back in May. We got an early start, and spent a good part of the morning hiking uphill and exploring the Berat Castle. Well after noon, we felt that we had taken in the sights, but had not been particularly inspired by the food choices inside the castle walls. And we saw one place right outside the walls, but it was a giant eatery with tour buses parked outside, so didn’t seem like our style either. Instead we found the restaurant that everyone had been raving about online as being the spot locals prefer, and started to make our way in that direction.

There were four of us including me, and with several people consulting the maps on their phone, we thought that surely we could find our way to this nearby spot quite quickly, as we were starting to get quite hungry. We started down the one hill connecting the castle entrance to town and it kept looking like a wiggle down the next side street would lead us to the restaurant entrance. I would pop down one alleyway, certain it was finally the right one, and then reappear a minute later dejected that there was no eatery present. Eventually, we made it to the bottom of the hill to town and close to the car, but let’s be real – we were committed to finding the restaurant at this stage! We drove a bit to side streets where an alternate online map placed the taverna. Then we returned to the bottom of the hill where we had started, and asked some locals passing by if they knew how to get there. Finally, after what was probably *way* too much time floundering on our own, we called the restaurant. The owner, being so gracious at what was now probably around 2pm, actually came to fetch us.

We were able to follow him in his car on a meandering path that brought us . . . to a restaurant right at the top of the path right by the castle! I think it had been hidden by the hilltop and the large restaurant with the tourist buses, but of course we had been right there at the beginning. Fortunately all of our efforts were rewarded, with a massive, delectable feast of Albanian food with a Greek twist at Taverna Lazaro.

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Place I Made the Most Friends on the Road: Waiting in Line for a Kebab in Berlin

I usually make the most friends on the road when I am traveling solo, and this year is no exception. In the end, I actually had relatively few trips when I was in a hostel-type accommodation, which is where I would normally meet other travelers. And although I did walking tours and other group activities on my own, it was actually in a quest for food that I found the most kindred spirits. Nothing brings people together quite like shared queuing, and on this particular night in Berlin, I was set on getting what is probably the city’s most famous kebab. The line was moving along at a decent clip, but then the stand ran out of supplies (!) and had to re-stock. So what was looking like a 20-minute wait became closer to an hour, and I had a chance to gain some insight on the city from two other expats: a Spaniard living and working in Berlin and a Taiwanese student studying there. More proof that you never know who’ll you meet on the road.

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Best Wine Tasting: Argiolas in Cagliari (Sardinia, Italy)

One of the best parts of living in Europe is the wine. Grapes tend to be very local, and grown and processed in a way to complement the typical food of a region. I’ve done my fair share of wine tasting all over Europe in 2016 (and even a bit in Australia this year), but there was one experience that was especially memorable and stands out from the rest – doing a tour and tasting at Argiolas Winery in Sardinia, a bit outside of Cagliari. Although I’ve gone on many wine tours, I felt like I actually learned about their specific techniques and how they differ from other wineries. And the tasting itself was just fabulous. My friend and I had one person talking us through the wines, accompanied by a bit of local food. All of the staff was so friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were so delicious, that we didn’t even realize until we had finished the last wine that we had taken so long our tasting had gone past the winery’s opening hours. Which really, is just a testament to the level of Italian hospitality we received.

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Craziest Hotel Check-in: Nessebar, Bulgaria

We’ve all been there. The crazy frustration of trying to find your hotel. It should be just around the corner. Or the GPS sends you one direction, but it just doesn’t like the correct route. Or in this case, sends you down a precarious gravel path. “No,” you think, “this can’t be right.” So you try an alternate route – which also turns out to be another gravel path. Finally you give up, and just park the corner in a random corner of the Bulgarian gravel road. And look up. And your friend says, “Hey, doesn’t that look like the picture of our hotel?”

End of story, right? If only… After confirmation from a nearby shop owner that we had indeed arrived at the correct destination, we walk into the building lobby. And there’s no reception. Hmmm….surely there must be staff somewhere, right? A quick pop to the salon downstairs finds it deserted. We call the phone number in the booking confirmation, and no reply. Then the waitress at the on-site restaurant is trying to be helpful, but speaks no English (and we speak no Bulgarian). Finally she directs us to one of the men sunbathing at the pool. My first thought is that it’s because he speaks English, but he actually turns out to be the building’s owner. “Great!” was my first – and misplaced – reaction. After studying the booking confirmation, the owner declares that there is no rental in his building under that description.

Ah, every frequent traveler’s nightmare. They gave away the last room, or the booking never existed in the first place. Images of curling up in the tiny car’s backseat for the night flash through my head, when the owner takes a moment to call the phone number we have on speakerphone. I catch a glance at his phone screen and realize that when he clicked “Send” a name popped up from his phone’s Contact List. As I wonder whether this is a good or bad sign, he quickly hangs up before someone has a chance to answer. He makes another call. This time it finally sounds promising, and I hear what sounds like “Italien” and I start gesturing saying, yes, I have an Italian phone number I used for my booking, it’s us. Does that mean we finally have a place to stay?? And yes, we have a room! He knows this person, and she is going to come and show us to our rooms. Imagine our relief when the room is just as expected, and even has a complimentary bottle of Bulgarian wine to greet us. As the door clicks behind her, out comes the joint, palpable, audible sigh. We’re finally checked in.

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Most People Visited in a Country I’ve Never Lived: 8 in Singapore

I visit friends in my travels often, and in fact, having a friend living in a foreign country is the best reason to get there for a visit! It’s great having a reason to explore a new, unexpected destination, and was how I picked several of my travel destinations this past year. Usually I travel to visit a single friend or family, with London as my usual exception, although most of my friends who live there I met in Milan. So it was quite random when I realized as I planned my November travel that I actually know quite a few people living in Singapore and there was never a better time to go.

There is the close Milan friend and previous around-the-corner neighbor who lives there with her husband and daughter, but may not be staying in Singapore much longer. The Singaporean college friend who I had seen relatively recently when she came to visit Milan during the World Expo last year, but whose days in Singapore are probably numbered as well. And then there’s the high school friend and her Singaporean husband and two children who only recently moved to Singapore. Several of these friends are now what I like to call 3-continent friends – people I’ve spent time with on three different continents. And for me it’s definitely notable to have so many different people from different stages of my life who just happen to all live in the same tiny island nation. While I didn’t know much about Singapore before visiting (other than having a ton of friends to visit), I became obsessed with the Singaporean style of breakfast and Singapore was one of my favorite destinations this year!

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Craziest Adventurous Things I Did:

Pemberton Climbing Trees (Australia) & Walking to Al Sawadi Island and Fort (Oman)

For me being adventurous doesn’t mean having no fear. Being adventurous is being confronted with something scary and/or dangerous, and then going outside of your comfort zone to do it anyway. There were two things in 2016 that really got my adrenaline pumping, both for being ostensibly dangerous, as well as me not really knowing what to expect ahead of time. First, was scaling the Pemberton climbing trees, which involved some incredibly tall trees and not much of a safety net. It was a bit terrifying, but also quite rewarding to reach the tops and take in the expansive views. Read more about the full experience in my post linked above and here.

The second pretty crazy thing I did was on my recent Oman trip with my sister. On the coast north of Muscat, there is a spot called Al Sawadi, with a nearby island and fort not too far off the beach. While there are boats you can pay to take you across, I had read something about being able to *walk* to the island during low tide. We arrived around 4pm and the water was looking quite low, but there was no one else walking across or anyone to ask. After a little bit of a walk when the water reached just up to knee level, we decided to go for it. This is only slightly complicated in Oman by the fact that it is a modest Muslim country where your shoulders and knees should be covered at all times in public. So you’re not just stripping down to your bikini and going for it. But venturing out into the unknown was great – the thrill and exhilaration of not knowing whether we’d be able to make it across, or if we did, how high the water level would rise before we reached the shore. In the end, my zip-off pants only got a little wet, and then we arrived and had the island entirely to ourselves! We hiked in our sport sandals to the top of the fort, took lots of pictures with the cell phones we were brave enough to carry for the journey, and had an even-lower tide for the walk back to where we had left the car, making it back across just as the sun set. An incredible and memorable experience, I’m reliving the excitement just typing about it.

Time Most Worth it to Trust a Stranger: Heading to the Cave at Wadi Khalid, Oman

I’m from New York, so it’s sort of second nature that when a stranger offers to help me out of the blue, my radar goes off and I become super skeptical of everything the person says and suggests. Perhaps it’s not the most open and loving way to live, but that is always my knee-jerk reaction: caution. Fortunately, the day exploring Wadi Khalid in Oman (a series of interconnected water pools and caves in the desert) came far enough into the week-long road trip that I already knew how hospitable Omanis were. Plus, they are so excited to see tourists – especially American ones – that they want you to have an amazing experience so you inspire others to visit when you go home.

As my sister and I were following the vague arrows pointing toward the Wadi’s famous cave, a man in traditional Omani dress fell into step beside us. He told us that he was heading to the cave as well, and as a local, knew the way quite well. My mind at this point was racing with possibilities, but we were just walking in that direction and were outside with plenty of other visitors. At one point I did inquire as to why he was so interested in showing us around, and he revealed that he was a police officer in Muscat and wanted to practice his English. It sounded legit, and again, we were not alone, but it was quite interesting crouching into a dark cave with no signs or directions, blindly following the instincts of a local who had been many times before. Our new Omani friend Said was a great guide, showing us the water source of the wadi, pointing out bats that were hanging from the ceiling just above our heads, and giving us the full experience of the cave. There’s no way my sister and I would have ventured that far alone, and it was just incredible to see the caverns and crevices inside.

Biggest Travel Injury: Stubbed Toe in Abu Dhabi

Anyone who knows me knows that I can be quite clumsy, so an injured toe as my biggest injury of the year is a major accomplishment. Interestingly enough, if I am doing a potentially dangerous activity like rock climbing or cliff diving, I’m quite attentive and tend to emerge unscathed. My biggest injuries ever? Both my broken collarbone and severely injured finger resulted from what was essentially me tripping over my own feet.

Stubbing my toe in Abu Dhabi doesn’t sound serious, but it was quite a wound. Basically, I was walking back to bed after a middle-of-the-night trip to the bathroom, and didn’t realize that one of the stylish chairs with metal legs reached out almost to the edge of the bed. I thought I would have cleared it by a mile, but instead I walked quite decisively forward and essentially sliced my second toe open. So it was more serious (and bloody) than your typical stubbed toe, and it hurt to walk for the next 10 days, as in it was painful taking e-v-e-r-y s-i-n-g-l-e s-t-e-p. But for a year of travel and adventure (and given my lifelong tendency to injure myself weirdly and quite seriously), not too bad at all.

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Travel First: Getting Put Up in a Hotel

Lost luggage? Yes, many times, sometimes for up to several days.

Missed a connecting flight? Of course, but usually with good, alternate options to still get there within a few hours.

Been on an overbooked flight offering vouchers? Plenty of times, but usually when I was in the US traveling for work and had to be somewhere by a certain time, so I’d never taken advantage.

Slept in an airport? Sure, most memorably at the Dallas airport in a snowstorm when I was trying to be there for the first flight back to New York for New Year’s Eve & at the Kuala Lumpur budget terminal (never again!)

Missing a connection and needing to stay in a hotel overnight? That had never happened to me before – until a week ago, so just under the wire to be part of my 2016 travel superlatives. I had just over an hour of transit time at London’s Heathrow Airport, which is cutting it quite close to begin with. Then, as we were lining up to board the bus that would take us to the plane in Milan, the snow started to fall. What?!? It almost never snows in Milan, because it’s usually not quite cold enough. And snow certainly had not been part of the forecast. When the captain announced that there was a long line to de-ice the plane and we would likely be delayed at least 30 minutes, I flagged over a flight attendant to ask about my connection. When he informed me that you need to scan through the transfer desk at Heathrow 35 minutes before your departure time to be allowed on the plane, I knew I was in trouble. In the US, they would likely send information up to the plane about the connecting flight, or at least the crew would be able to phone and request it. For this London connection, I had the sinking feeling that I would be out of luck, which was confirmed when we touched down an hour late.

By the time someone was available to help me at the re-booking desk, the best option was just to take the same early afternoon flight the following day. Spend an unexpected 24 hours in London, catching up with friends and soaking up the holiday atmosphere? If I must…

Most Times Crossing Paths with a Friend – and half the time accidentally!

It’s one thing to plan a lot of travel with a good friend, it’s quite another to have the one person you keep running into at unplanned moments in unexpected cities. Of the 6 times I’ve crossed paths with this one particular friend, our run-ins have spanned 4 cities on 2 continents – and only 2 were arranged in advance! We had planned to be in Bucharest, Romania (where she is from) over the same weekend in early June so she could show me around and we could hang out. Then a few weeks beforehand when her schedule was too busy on a business trip to Milan, a work dinner fell through and she messaged me last minute so we met up for a meal. In August when I was in New York, she messaged me about a last-minute work trip that had also brought her to the city, so we had another unplanned meal together. And then, the very next night on the way to meet another friend, I walked into another restaurant in a completely different part of town. And the first person I see? This same friend! Our 5th meeting of the year was arranged in advance, when I came to London to see the American football (NFL) game with my home team playing. And then on my recent missed connection in London, I messaged this friend to see if she was possibly around. It turned out that about an hour after my message she was actually coming to the same terminal of Heathrow Airport where I was stranded! So we met up for a coffee, and our last in a string of prolific, unexpected run-ins throughout 2016.

 

What were the stand-out moments of your 2016 travel??

Where to Find Stockholm’s Best Bites (and Sips)

Where to Find Stockholm’s Best Bites (and Sips)

During my several days in Stockholm, I scoured the city not only for the best restaurants, but also for the best bites – the one item done well at a particular place. Where I landed was based on my own research and recommendations from friends, and also keeping my eyes open as I toured the city and trusting my instincts. It felt like I encountered culinary bliss everywhere I went!

Here’s what I found:

Best Bites

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Barrels Burgers & Beer

That name says it all, huh? I normally wouldn’t get a burger as I try to eat my way through a new city, however when my primary plan fell through, I remembered a fellow blogger at TBEX raving about how this had been his favorite meal so far. There are many toppings available beyond your typical burger and cheeseburger, so I tried the ‘Eiffel’ since I adore Bearnaise sauce. Juicy and perfectly balanced, this burger was definitely a highlight for me as well.

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Broms

Thanks to IKEA, many people associate cinnamon buns with Sweden, however I found the similar cardamom bun to be even more popular with locals. Plus, as I’ve never seen it outside of Sweden, a treat that you can only enjoy locally. I probably tried at least 5 different cardamom buns over my few days, and the one from Broms was hands-down my favorite. It had the right balance of doughiness and the sticky sweetness to contrast the more savory flavor of the cardamom spice – just heaven. I had planned to just take a bite to try it at first as I was still pretty full from lunch, and ended up devouring the whole thing in under a minute!

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Ekstedt

It is hard to score a reservation to eat at Ekstedt, and with good reason. If you can be flexible (I went late on a weeknight), you’ll have a better chance of eating here. Why is it so sought after? Ekstedt is probably most well-known for only having one heat source: its wood-burning oven. What makes the creations that come from oven so delectable though, is the creativity they use in composing dishes. I had dishes that were baked, smoked, and cooked in a cast iron. The most creative preparation – and most memorable for me – was the amuse bouche, which was deer meat and aromatics prepared table-side in a stone bowl that had been heated in the oven.

TIP! Even if you’re not dining solo like me, I highly recommend sitting at the bar so you can observe the cooking and plating process first-hand.

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Östermalms Korvspecialist

I’ve already written about how korv is a food to seek out in Stockholm, and I greatly enjoyed the version I sampled here. Not your ordinary hot dog, as there are dozens of meat and spicing combinations available, I recommend consuming whatever korv you choose on a baguette with all the toppings.

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Östermalms Saluhall

This is an indoor food market with many tempting stalls, although I’d head straight for the Melanders counter, where you can find giant salmon fillets in a variety of cured and smoked preparations. You can order by weight or by the slice, and the fish will be expertly sliced with the care typically reserved for Spanish or Italian hams. Every sentence I’ve written (and deleted) so far to describe the taste has sounded contrived, so let’s just suffice it to say that if you like salmon, each bite is a little bit of heaven and will give you pause.

TIP! Sample culinary delights at the other stands while you’re at the Saluhall, especially any Swedish foods you’d like to try during your trip. I also enjoyed one of the local specialties I found at another stall, a potato pancake served with lingonberry jam.

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Restaurant Rakan

I went here looking for a relatively quick bite close to the train station, and was surprised at how well-balanced and flavorful the fish stew turned out to be. The layering of flavors and textures, with each piece of seafood perfectly cooked, made this a surprising find on my first full day in town. Even though it was a decent portion size I could not completely finish, I did soak up and savor every last bit of the broth between the bread and rice.

Best Sips

Other than the wine pairing at Ekstedt (see above), which was phenomenally well done, the wine, beer, or cocktails I sampled elsewhere in Stockholm honestly don’t stand out for me. I did however have some delicious coffee during my visit:

Barista

I was not impressed with the first few cups of coffee I consumed in Stockholm, so asked a local who was my tour guide on an excursion where she would recommend, and she steered me toward Barista. Don’t let its location inside of the train station be a deterrent, it is a spot where you’ll find espresso-based drinks done right.

Espresso Sosta Bar

And the other place to seek out for good espresso? A place run by Italians, of course! I would say that while I was there, about half the people were conversing with the baristas in Italian, with the rest of the customers requesting their coffee in an an even split between Swedish and English. Like in Italy, you can consume your coffee standing at the bar, or at one of their tables inside or outside.

 

Certainly this is not meant to be an exhaustive list, especially since many restaurants in Stockholm close or relocate for the summer, so not everywhere on my original list was even open when I was there. But if you follow the list above, you’ll certainly make the most of the limited time you have in Stockholm on your visit!

What singular bites stick out in your memory or have made you want to go back to a particular city? Anything else you’d like to know about Stockholm’s food scene?

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Unexpected Foods to Seek Out in European Cities

Unexpected Foods to Seek Out in European Cities

I wholly subscribe to my grandfather’s assertion that “travel is an adventure in eating” and enjoying the local food specialties of a destination is an essential part of my travel, especially lately. Living in Italy has given me a even deeper appreciation of the concept, as food here is not just regional (Italy has 20 different regions), but is often particular to a specific town with a traditional dish and a local grape that produces wine that pairs perfectly with that culinary specialty.

While eating local food has its perks, sometimes there is an unexpected food – often from another culture – that has become a typical food of the area worth seeking out during your visit. In Washington, DC where I lived for many years, you may not know that there are both large Ethiopian and Salvadorean populations, making it a prime city for swiping a chunk of injera through a mound of kitfo or sampling pupusas for the first time.

In Europe, several cities I’ve visited also have non-native food specialties you’ll see available everywhere you turn, but with long enough traditions that you can find particularly delectable versions with just a little bit of sleuthing.

Here are some of the foods that have been unexpected for me, and where to find them:

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Amsterdam: Falafel

My first trip to Amsterdam was visiting a friend who was studying there at the time, and I was quite surprised when she told me how excellent the falafel was there. The word may be out already beyond Europe, at least among my DC friends, as there is actually a shop in DC called “Amsterdam Falafel.” So why is falafel so popular in Amsterdam? I honestly have no idea (if you do, please share in the Comments section below!) but whether you’re a vegetarian or not, it is an excellent snack during your time in the city.

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Berlin: Kebab

Kebab is an ethnic food found in many cities across Europe, from Paris to Vienna, so why do I associate it in particular with Berlin? As you can see in my recent Berlin rundown, kebab options are plentiful in Berlin. There is a kebab stand – or several – on pretty much every corner, and you’ll frequently see people walking around with a kebab in hand. And the options and opinions about kebab abound. On my recent trip, I waited in line for over an hour at possibly the most popular spot for a 3 kebab, which was well worth it as the kebab was by far the best I have ever tasted.

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London: Curry

When you think of British food, you’re likely to conjure images of fish and chips, and possibly bangers and mash or shepherd’s pie. If you’ve visited London though, you know that its colonial history on the Indian sub-continent has resulted into curry being an art form, available in excellent renditions all over town. While there are some renowned chains (like Dishoom) in many parts of the city, there is no need to take the tube for ages. In any neighborhood you stay in, there is likely to be an excellent restaurant serving up traditional curry. Do a bit of research or asking around, and then like me, curry will be on your “must eat” list every time you’re in London for a visit or just passing through.

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Stockholm: Korv (hot dog)

You probably don’t know the word korv if you’re never visited Sweden, but calling it a hot dog or even a sausage is a misnomer. Again, like Berlin, korv is available all over town and is a frequently consumed street food. However korv is unique in that the places that really specialize in it don’t just offer one or two versions, but 20 or more combinations of meat and spices to entice the palate. I also appreciated that the “korvspecialists” are really catering to locals, with posted menus only in Swedish (although asking will produce an English recommendation or possibly even a menu behind the stand). In any case, I enjoyed my spicy lamb sausage on a baguette with all of the toppings.

 

What are some non-native food specialties in your city? And what is the most under-the-radar food you’ve sampled somewhere you were visiting? Share in the Comments below.

“Travel is . . . an Adventure in Eating”

“Travel is . . . an Adventure in Eating”

“Here, try this” was probably the phrase I heard most often when dining out with my family growing up.

It was typically uttered by my grandfather, with some morsel of food perched on his fork. As a pretty curious seven-year old, I would peer over and if I could not identify the food (or it looked slimy, or rubbery) I would shake my head emphatically from side to side. Which would then be followed by an even more insistent, “No, try this” as the fork was thrust purposefully in my direction.

I loved and trusted my grandfather, so sometimes at this point I would give him my blind faith and sample the bite on the fork before inquiring as to what I had consumed – if I inquired at all. At other points, I would ask, “What is it?” and then have an internal debate as to whether the ‘ick’ factor outweighed the potential tastiness of the bite. I didn’t always try what was on the fork, but I took the plunge more often than not.

Although many times I was pleasantly surprised at how delicious the taste turned out to be, there was still that rare occasion when I took the bite and regretted my choice. Some unexpected texture or fishy flavor would overwhelm my palate and I would make a face, and possibly not even swallow my food. And then, knowing me, I probably complained in a loud and whiny voice after the fact about being misled.

But of course, the lessons of all of the tastes pushed in my direction were many:

  1. You don’t know if you like something or not until you try it
  2. People you trust have your best interests at heart, but even with the best of intentions you can still sometimes be misled or disappointed
  3. Even though you will feel betrayed at points, trust again at the next opportunity
  4. Sometimes you’ll be (pleasantly) surprised by how reality does not align with your preconceived notions

Since starting a travel blog two months ago, I’ve spent quite a bit of time reflecting on how I got here. What is it about my upbringing or life experiences that leads me to travel often and on longer trips than most people I know? Or to be the one of my several frequently-traveling friends and relatives to decide that starting a travel blog was a good idea? (Mind you, it took me a few years of living abroad to come around to the idea, but now here I am!)

Is it something about the family I grew up in? The fact that we travelled a few times a year? Both sets of grandparents being avid travelers themselves, recently in retirement when I was little and taking the time to see the world?

Why did I study abroad when I was just 18 years old, fresh out of high school, when so many of my classmates who ultimately studied abroad during college did so a few years later? Why did I decide that travelling for a month the winter break after September 11th was a good idea, when most Americans were avoiding air travel? Why did I plan my summer job when I was a teacher around being able to take long weekend trips to visit friends living around the US? Why did I spend two years saving vacation days when I was working in DC, to be able to take a trip that lasted 3.5 weeks?

Of all of the people with exposure to travel growing up, and who lived abroad during their college years, why am I so eager to both carve out time for travel and then write about it to inspire others?

As an adult, like my grandfather, when I am having a wonderful experience (culinary or otherwise!), my instinct is to share it with others so they can experience it, too. When I’ve visited and enjoyed my time in a particular destination, and then I hear that friends will be visiting soon, I want to tell them all about the amazing sights and delicious meals I consumed. Fortunately, as you can read more about in my Welcome Post, I had already been composing lots of e-mails with travel tips for friends who asked. Thanks to my Type A personality, I tend to keep pretty thorough notes when I plan my travel of what to see and where to eat. And not only do I do extensive research before most of my trips, I enjoy the planning! (I know, I know, you’re probably questioning at this point how I didn’t become a travel blogger years sooner.)

Another legacy from grandfather is that he always said there are 3 stages to enjoying a vacation: the anticipation as you prepare, the enjoyment of the vacation itself, and thinking back about it after the fact. He was one to savor all of these, even the sometimes stressful lead-up in planning a week-long vacation for the 15 people in the extended family for our annual summer trip. Why did he take such joy, even during the disagreements or misunderstandings?

This was a man, who as he always explained it “grew up dirt poor” during the time of the Great Depression in the US. He was not one to waste any material good, and certainly not food. He would finish any little bit left on someone’s plate, even if he was already full. My grandfather also ate marrow out of bones — and I don’t mean osso bucco or the luscious marrow you might be envisioning that would be roasted in the oven and served at an upscale, trendy restaurant. I’m talking about the marrow of teeny chicken bones, that he would have to scrape out with a toothpick to eat. So yes, this is a man who savored all of the stages of travel planning, even the not-so-idyllic parts.

In my grandparents’ house in Brooklyn where they lived for over 50 years, there were pictures hung on the wall next to the staircase from the various places my grandparents had traveled together since they were first married. Each from a different location, all exotic and colorful and enticing to me as a young child. These are also the grandparents who saw travel and exploring together as a means for family togetherness.

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Starting when I was young, the family would all get together. It started off at resorts in the Borscht Belt of upstate New York (think Dirty Dancing). Then we tried something different, further than a simple drive away. We checked out an all-inclusive resort or two and went on a few cruises. Somehow my mom and sisters and cousins and I got recruited into the organizing phases. Now the vacation planning involves a complex matrix of various schedules and a spreadsheet to narrow down our destination for the coming summer.

Although this process continues today (I’m in charge of the research for next summer), the important part is not the resort or massages or excursions. The important part has always been the time spent together, which somehow always seems to line up into those 3 phases my grandfather always talked about – the before, the during, and the after of travel. It is the shared experience and memory of all of our trips together that provides many of the anecdotes and laughter when the family is around the table together for other celebrations throughout the year. And the collective closeness that comes from decades of ‘Family Vacation’ each summer.

My grandfather always said (in case you can’t tell, he had a lot of sayings he liked to share!), “travel is an adventure in eating,” and he treated our trips together as a way for us all to explore the cuisine of a new place. And still today, three and a half years after his passing, the quality and variety of the food offerings is central to choosing a destination for ‘Family Vacation.’ And certainly in my personal travels, a big component of how I explore and experience a new place is through the local food.

This is the same grandfather who gave me the weekly push at dinner on Saturday night for me to venture outside of my comfort zone, and even when it didn’t lead to the reward I had anticipated, to venture outside of my comfort zone again the following week. To make sure that if he was appreciating something, I would have the opportunity to appreciate it, too.

And that is how I became an avid traveler. And that is how I became a travel blogger.

Top 10 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Naples

Top 10 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Naples

1.  Coffee

Of course, caffe’ simply means espresso, and is excellent all over Italy. So what makes coffee in Naples so special? Like the locals, coffee is surprisingly strong and concentrated. Due to its strength, it is usually served with water from a filtered tap by the bar, which you should drink before the coffee.

2.  Nocciola

Although nocciola (hazelnut) is typically grown in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy, this is a coffee drink that was invented in Naples, and involves espresso mixed with a whipped hazelnut cream, a perfect flavor pairing if you ask me. You can get it in a glass, or ‘in cialda’, a cup-shaped wafer lined with chocolate.

3.  Taralli

Taralli are circular or oval-shaped breadsticks, sometimes with multiple strands of dough twisted together. The Napoletano variation usually has lard and pepper, sometimes decorated with nuts. They are widely available at passticcierie throughout Naples.

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4.  Pizza

Neapolitan pizza is famous all over the world, and a must-eat item for any trip to Naples, no matter how short. Competing claims about first/oldest/best pizzeria abound, and any time you visit you’re likely to be subjected to a long line snaking outside and down the street for the most famous, central places. Every pizza maker has his or her own philosophy about dough and toppings (some places only serve the basic margherita pizza with tomato, mozzarella, and basil), so find a place that appeals to you and dig in – in true Italian fashion, of course, with a fork and knife.

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5.  Fried pizza

Yes, this is a different category than your regular pizza pie. While the method is similar, there are usually two different discs of dough, with toppings in between, and then the result is deep-fried until there is a crispy, golden-brown, bubbled crust. The taste sensation is quite different from your usual pizza, but equally delicious.

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6.  Fried food

Aside from fried pizza, there are many fried treats to enjoy around Naples, and you’ll usually smell the delicious aromas as you walk around. Some tempting items you’ll find fried around town include pasta, rice, polenta, eggplant, and zucchini blossoms. There is just something about warm climates and fried food that go so well together, making a meal or snack of fried goodies especially satisfying.

7.  Buffalo mozzarella (or any fresh mozzarella)

You’ll see the name as ‘mozzarella di bufala di campania,’ meaning buffalo mozzarella from the region of Italy – Campania – where Naples is located. While a bit more sour than your typical mozzarella, the quality of what you can get locally will eclipse any mozzarella you’ve had before.

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8.  Sfogliatella

I don’t typically like desserts with any trace of citrus, but sfogliatella is an a league of its own. It is an enclosed crispy, phyllo-like pastry layered in the shape of a seashell, with a ricotta and orange filling. However, when you bite into a good version, you sense the textural contrast between the crispy outside and smooth inside, with the perfect balance of tart and sweet flooding your taste buds.

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9.  Babà

I find the best versions of this rum cake are incredibly light and oozing delicious rum syrup every time you slice it with your fork. I like the regular-size ones the best, for the ratio of the thin outer layer to soft inside, but you can also find babà mignon, the mini version.

10.  Limoncello

Southern Italy has an ideal climate for growing lemons, and the abundance around Naples has led to a local digestivo (digestive aid, usually consumed after lunch or dinner). Typically bright yellow in color, the combination of simple syrup, intense lemon flavor, and hard alcohol will help close out any delicious meal in Naples – just enough that you can appreciate your meal without feeling too full.

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