Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

August 9, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Impressions

Berlin is very different from other German cities I’ve visited, and at some moments does not feel like Germany at all. It has this young, industrial bustle, is teeming with hipsters, and embraces ethnic food and the latest trends. However, there are still moments when you feel like you could be in any European city and not Berlin specifically: walking along the tree-lined Kurfürstendamm for high-end shopping, or strolling the Alexanderplatz hunting for bargains with the masses at TK Maxx (yes, just like TJ Maxx).

Modern Berlin is a city of contradictions. It is both distinct and anonymous. I’ve heard it compared to Austin, Texas, which is a city in Texas that has such a different flavor than other Texas cities, and sometimes doesn’t feel like Texas. A pretty apt comparison, in fact.

Berlin is both rule-following and rebellious. I was there when Germany beat Slovakia in the Round of 16 of the 2016 Euro Cup. The Germans went wild celebrating in their cars, driving up the main streets with German flags streaming out of the car windows and honking their horns for hours. But the cars also proceeded in a very orderly manner, taking great care not to block the second lane reserved for buses. And while the bus drivers who monitor tickets by hand and the U-bahn and S-bahn run like clockwork, I saw many Germans ignoring the rules – smoking on train platforms and drinking on board.

Oh, and the history. I thought I knew about Berlin during the Cold War, East and West Germany, the Berlin wall. I didn’t realize how much I didn’t know until visiting Berlin. I think I was most surprised by everything I learned about the Berlin wall. I was not alive when it went up, although I remember watching the wall come down on TV. And I even visited the largest (unchanged) section of the Wall outside of Germany in the late 1990s when it was part of an outdoor display of the Newseum in DC. But somehow I managed to escape that time period without a coherent understanding of what the wall was and how it came into being.

The first “wall” was really just a wall of soldiers that appeared overnight in 1961. People went to bed one night with free passage to family and friends in the other sectors of Berlin, and woke up to a human barrier around East Berlin that was already in the process of being converted into a physical wall.

For me, understanding the suddenness of the shift helped to explain some of the desperation I read and heard about the various escape attempts from East to West Berlin: the twenty-something student who wanted to reunite with his parents, the 80-year old woman who wanted to join her daughter. Both perished in their attempts. Or the East German border guard who jumped the wall in the early days when it was just a bunch of barbed wire, captured in this iconic photograph. Although Conrad Schumann escaped to freedom, his defection haunted him throughout his life and he committed suicide nearly a decade after the fall of the Berlin wall.

Things to Do

As you can tell, the history of Berlin really captivated me. See below for my top picks for what to do during your visit (in order of preferene within each section):

Around Town

Walking Tour

There is so much to see and history to take in, so I found it hugely helpful to have a walking tour to orient me and explain the major sites on my first afternoon. I did a tour with Original Berlin Walks that I thought was fabulous (and did not require an advance reservation, which was a plus), although there are other highly-rated walking tours available.

TIP! The walking tours that have Western meeting points typically are listed 30-minutes sooner than the Easten meeting point because you spend the first half-hour traveling east together. Unless you’re nervous, about finding the spot for yourself, arrange your itinerary for the day to arrive at the eastern meeting point at the appointed time.

TIP! While there is a small discount for booking online in advance, there is an even bigger discount if you have the Berlin Welcome Card, and pay in person on the day.

Holocaust memorial

This is an outdoor memorial, which I recommend experiencing first-hand, and there is also a museum on site that does a good job of conveying information in a way that makes you think, even if you’ve been to other Holocaust memorials or museums.

Brandenburg gate

Icon of the city, and even more special to be able to visit it today since it was inaccessible while the Berlin Wall stood. You are likely to come across this during your visit, even if you do not actively seek it out.

Jüdisches Museum

Different from the museum at the Holocaust memorial, because it gives a window into Jewish life in Germany both before and after. Famous architect Daniel Libeskind designed some of the newer sections, and the temporary art exhibit upstairs was also very good when I visited.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie

This was probably one of the least user-friendly museums I’ve ever visited, because the written materials are written in long-form in four languages and is very hard to follow and glean key details. Despite the super-long blurbs, it is very cool to see the memorabilia that has been accummulated in the private collection, especially of methods people used to escape from East Berlin, from the more well-known car compartments to the more obscure surfboards and hot air balloon.

Checkpoint Charlie

It is cool to see the place where this border crossing once stood, although the current checkpoint is a reproduction. Named “Charlie” because the checkpoints were named consecutively using the phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie). This third American checkpoint was the most visible while the Wall still stood.

Neue Synagoge

Although this was once the main synagogue in Berlin, it has not been fully reconstructed. It is still stunning from the outside (it is modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain), and has a history of the Berlin Jewish community, including fun tidbits like the “well-known violin concert” given there in 1930 by none other than Albert Einstein.

Off the Beaten Path

Berlin Wall Memorial/Gedenkstatte Beliner Mauer

While there isn’t much of the wall itself left at this site, there is a moving set of poles marking the location of what by the end of its time was a much more elaborate barricade between East and West Berlin. The “Wall” really ended up being two different walls with empty space in between called “the death strip,” and this memorial marks many of the successful and failed attempts for those in East Berlin to escape. This is an open-air exhibit which will take you several hours to walk through and absorb the thorough written, audio, and video descriptions of this section of the wall. Most surprising to me was seeing a photo from when Martin Luther King Jr. visited the Berlin wall in the mid-1960s, even giving a speech on both sides of the wall. There is also a whole exhibit inside the local S-bahn Nordbahnhof stop about what happened to the metro system when the wall was up.

East Side Gallery

This is an open-air exhibit of a very long section of the Berlin Wall that has been thoughtfully decorated by artists from around the world. Worth a trip, and you can visit at any time of day. Check out this Photo Gallery of some of the most interesting sections.

Sachsenhausen

This concentration camp is accessible by train from the city center, although it takes a while to reach. There are tours available either from Berlin or on site, although I found the audio guide quite useful during my visit. An important part of German history that I found very moving to see first-hand.

Amazing views

Reichstag Dome

This iconic building that houses the German Parliament has a glass dome with an inclined ramp that is free to visit for expansive views of Berlin, although it does require advance registration. If you are booking early enough, there is the possibility of registering on-line, and guided tour registration may also be available online if you visit when Parliament is not in session.

TIP! If, like me, you are planning last-minute, you can register in person for the same day or next day in-person from 8am. While there is a small line right at 8am, by 8:20am or so there was no wait (and it can be up to an hour wait or more in the afternoon). Be sure to bring your passport or European ID card to sign up, they let in 100 people per hour.

Fernsehturm (the TV tower)

You can buy an early-bird ticket, or just go on the early side to beat lines (and you’ll still get discounted admission if you have the Berlin Welcome Card). There is an indoor viewing window where you can walk around at your leisure and appreciate a fairly high-altitude view of all corners of the city. Like with the Reichstag Dome in-person ticket purchase, after the first 20-30 minutes of opening, you can get in without waiting.

Berliner Dom

The Berlin cathedral is lovely to visit and in addition to housing some exhibitions and a crypt, there is also the option (which I recommend!) of climbing several hundred stairs to get up to the walkway outside of the dome for 360-degree views of the city and some exhilirating fresh air.

Best Bites

I ate really well in Berlin. Like, really well. And I don’t say that lightly. While I sampled my fair share of ethnic food, my best bites (breakfast aside) were mostly the local specialties:

Best Breakfasts

Chipps

Chipps serves a variety of large portion breakfasts meant for people with appetites (like me), although there is the usual selection of pastries and yogurts for those looking for a more minimal meal. There >is also a vegan option for the bacon and sausage that accompanies some of the dishes, plus nice coffee and fresh juice options.

Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers

I had a wonderful Australian-style breakfast here – a flat white coffee drink with perfectly-seasoned avocado toast, and I got the addition of a poached egg. The pastries looked great as well, and while very centrally located, Father Carpenter’s is in a quaint courtyard with outdoor seating as well as the space indoors.

Best Street Food

Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap This is *the* place for kebap, a very popular street food in Berlin. I got the “usual” version here, which comes with chicken. The bread is toasted perfectly, and the proportion of ingredients was just perfect down to the spray of juice from a lemon wedge to finish. Each kebap is made to order with care, and you will wait accordingly (1 hour when I went, so go early before usual mealtimes if you can). And be sure to go to the original at Mehringdamm, as the two locals I met in line told me that the other outposts closer to the main tourist areas are not as good.

Hühnerhaus 36

Serving Berlin’s typical fried chicken, I had a perfectly crispy and flavorful 1/2 hen with the spicy garlic sauce, which also comes with a choice of salad/fries/rice/bulgur. There is the street stand and the sit-down place across the street from each other, and they are Halal. This place is off the beaten path, although not terribly far from the East Side Gallery.

Best German food

Zur Letzten Instanz

One of the 10 oldest restaurants in the world (it is rumored that Napoleon ate here once), they have been satisfying hungry customers since 1621! But don’t come only for the history, this place serves up typical German fare done well. I don’t eat pork so I ordered the one fish dish on the menu, which was just phenomenal and came with the best sauerkraut of my life. And it wasn’t very crowded for lunch on a Friday.

Marjellchen

Although reservations are recommended, I didn’t reserve, but was able to eat at the bar. This is another spot with great typical German dishes. To drink, this is a great spot to sample the local specialty: Berliner Weisse beer “mit schuss,” with rot (red – raspberry) or grün (green – woodruff) syrup.

Best overall meal

Restaurant Bieberbau. This was the only restaurant where I made a reservation, since it’s off the beaten path and I didn’t want to arrive and get turned away. They serve high-level cuisine with amazing flavors and textures, but with helpful and friendly service, and incredibly reasonable prices. And it is not pretentious at all – my kind of place. The aperitif special the night I was there was a sparkling riesling with rose syrup and the bread basket came with red wine butter and also curry apple butter, just to give you an idea of the flavor combinations and creativity you’ll experience dining here. And you can get a half glass of wine at exactly half price of a regular one, so I got to have a lot of great sips paired with the various courses. A truly satisfying dining experience.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

I’ve included a few practical tips above next to the relevant attraction. Here are a couple more general tips for Berlin:

Berlin Welcome Card

Berlin is huge! It basically developed as two different cities when the wall was up, and then was reunited as one, so there is huge sprawl. Even with unlimited public transit travel, I walked a huge amount each day. I can’t imagine *not* using public transit very heavily as a tourist.

I bought a 5-day Berlin Welcome Card, and found that it was only slightly more expensive than just getting an unlimited transit pass for the same amount of time. Plus, with the Berlin Welcome Card, I received discounts for: my walking tour, going to the top of the Fernsehturm (TV tower), the Jüdisches museum, the Neue Synagogue, and Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.

TIP! You can buy the Berlin Welcome Card ahead of time online.

TIP! If you don’t buy online, there are points of sale for the Berlin Welcome Card at both major airports. And if you buy at the airport, your initial public transit trip into the city will be included. Plus, the line was much shorter to get the Berlin Welcome Card than just a ticket for the bus.

TIP! Know in advance how many days you’d like the pass (2-6 days) and whether you want it for zones A-B for just the city or A-B-C, which includes the periphery like Potsdam.

Get a phone data plan

While I am often an advocate of sticking to WiFi connections and using phone GPS without data for navigating, I found phone data hugely helpful in Berlin. The city is huge, and if nothing else, active data is a helpful tool to navigate efficiently on public transit from one location to another.

Have you visited Berlin before? What was the highlight for you? And what was the most surprising part of its history did you learn during your visit? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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Foodie Scoop – The Table in Boston

May 11, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

On a recent weekend trip to Boston designed for catching up with friends and loved ones, I wasn’t expecting to have any notable experiences to share on the blog. Until I went to the Gardner Museum, site of the largest unsolved art heist, and loved the vibe of the museum even beyond the noticeably empty picture frames on the wall. And then that night, my foodie revelation – enjoying my best dining experience of the year so far.

In between a night cooking at home with friends and another getting some traditional Boston clam chowder out, I had a night to fill on my recent weekend trip to Boston. I cooked have cooked at my friends’ place where I was staying, even though they were out that night. It would have been quite cozy, and I do love to cook.

But when I’m somewhere other than home, you know me – I like to get out and explore! So despite the freezing temperatures and chilling wind, I ventured outside in search of a meal out. It was a decent stroll, actually, to another corner of Cambridge, to see if I could get in to The Table at Season to Taste.

I had seen The Table on a list of best Boston restaurants for foodies, and was intrigued by it offering a tasting menu, but choices within each course, all of which sounded delicious. And I sure worked up an appetite by the time I arrived.

Of course, I came prepared with a backup plan of several other nearby restaurants in case I couldn’t get in at The Table. But fortunately that was not needed and I had a really stellar dining experience that I’m compelled to share:

How ‘The Table’ Works (& What You Should Do Instead)

The Table is a quite small Cambridge dining establishment, with only twenty seats inside. The main seating is a combination of 16 spots at regular tables and 4 stools at the bar facing the open kitchen.

All of these seats, including the bar stools, are available to reserve and when you do you’ll be asked for your seating preference – Standard or Counter. You’re also required to provide a credit card, and you can only cancel the reservation until 48 hours in advance. By reserving, you’re committing to a 4-course tasting menu (there are 2 options within each course) at a cost of $69 per person.

But who needs commitment like that when you can instead play it by ear?

The website for The Table describes that “there is a menu of light snacks paired with choice wines and craft beers at the standing wine bar.” This is accurate, and you can find both a ‘Drink’ and a ‘Snack’ menu on the site to check out in advance.

TOP TIP! What they don’t tell you is that the ‘standing wine bar’ – really like a waiting nook to the right of the entrance – is far more flexible than they make it sound. You can actually order from the several choices on the ‘Snack Menu’ or order any of the 8 possible courses a la carte from the tasting menu (4 courses x 2 options in each). You can mix and match. And it is glorious.

In foodie heaven, I ended up getting 3 courses in total, one of the “first courses” and both of the “second courses” from the tasting menu the night I was there. And none of the “snacks.” My choices were partially based on my mood and partially based on the one course my server recommended when I asked for guidance – the crab stew (which you’ll read all about below).

The best deal by far is to dine in the waiting nook. Both in terms of choice and price.

I’m not the only foodie who’s figured this out as there was a neighborhood couple who dined there the same night as me, but otherwise the other people who entered had reserved in advance at the tables or at the counter.

The ‘standing wine bar’ only has 2 stools (I managed to snag one), but you can also stand, if you don’t mind. The one couple who came after me opted to stand. FYI, I arrived around 7:30pm on a Saturday night, and was the first person to arrive without a reservation.

And in the end, it was incredibly affordable for the size and quality of the dishes that came out. Each of my First/Second course choices were only $14 each! And you could be happily full on just two, trust me.

I honestly didn’t ask for the a la carte price before ordering, but the meal cost less than I expected it to be, which was a pleasant surprise when I received the bill at the end. Basically, my food and wine came to the total I was expecting just for the food. Amazing.

Now that I’ve talked about the pesky money business, it’s time to focus on the exceptional meal and service I enjoyed. Which, price aside, is what really made this a stand-out restaurant experience for me.

The Staff and Chefs

Despite the main restaurant menu consisting of just a tasting menu, the service is effusive and not stuffy or pretentious at all. I’d characterize it as quite laid back, which seems to be my preferred style of dining these days. From welcoming me as soon as I came in the door to explaining my ordering options in the ‘standing wine bar,’ everything throughout the meal was very comfortable and relaxed.

And while I didn’t try any of the craft beer that was available, I did enjoy a couple of wines by the glass – one white, one red – and had some great sommelier advice along the way. The menu options by the glass were interesting, and the knowledgeable staff gave some spot-on recommendations for pairings with the dishes I ordered.

Although the chefs are focused as they expertly assemble dishes in the open kitchen, they are also aware of the diners and happily chatting away with us, even with me over in the nook! Being close to a kitchen with chefs that were so friendly and interacting with guests definitely enhanced the dining experience for me.

Another thing I noticed when I got settled on my stool in the waiting nook was that the head chef in the kitchen sure looked familiar. A quick search on my phone revealed that yes, it was Carl Dooley from Top Chef, which (I swear!) I didn’t know before going. Like many foodies I know, I’ve been a loyal watcher of this American cooking reality show for years, but I don’t think I’ve ever gone to a restaurant of a Top Chef contestant outside of Washington, DC before. Fortunately, his time on TV didn’t go to his head and he was super friendly, just like the other chefs in the kitchen.

Another nice touch is that different chefs hand deliver each course, and you get to chat with them as they come to where you’re seated with your dish. They never seemed too rushed to get back into the kitchen, helping the meal feel relaxed.

The staff is so, so friendly and both welcoming and accommodating that they made an already great experience especially memorable.

Breaking it Down Course by Course

Since I had ordered a random mix of three courses and was not doing the full tasting menu, I was expecting dining in The Table’s waiting nook to be like any other a la carte meal. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised at the very hospitable and foodie-worthy dining experience.

Soon after ordering, heated triangles of house-made sourdough bread appeared, served with some cultured butter. I had no clue what cultured butter was, so asked and found out that it was butter that had been churned with live bacteria to culture it. It was a flavor I didn’t love on its own but really enjoyed with my different food courses.

Another surprise then headed my way, an amuse bouche. This is a small dish made at the daily whim of the chef to start my meal, and something I wasn’t expecting since I had not committed to the tasting menu like the diners at the tables and formal counter spots. I enjoyed the apple, turnip, and jalapeño soup, although it was not nearly as incredible as the more polished courses that followed.

I had ordered the 1^st course of grilled squid with winter citrus just because I was in the mood for squid. The dish looked different than I had pictured it in my head, but it was incredibly delicious. The thin rings of squid were cooked perfectly, and not in the least bit rubbery or chewy. It was boldly seasoned to the point that I found a bite of the squid on its own to be a bit too salty, but with the other flavors of the citrus, mint, olives, and pistachio, it made for a perfect bite.

When I ordered my two 2^nd courses, I had just assumed from my perspective after living in Italy that the pasta would arrive first, followed by the crab stew. But I didn’t specify anything when I ordered and the kitchen had its own ideas about the proper order. Which meant that the server-recommended crab stew came next.

I’m glad that it did, because I wasn’t approaching being full yet, and was able to appreciate it completely. I don’t say this lightly: this crab dish is one of the best bites I’ve ever had.

This 2^nd course was the crab stew, with peanuts, scallions, house-made kimchi, & a sunny side up egg. Sounds simple enough, and it actually didn’t appeal to me much from reading the menu description.

But when I had asked my server about what dishes from the menu stand out (and I honestly expecting waffling, saying that “everything is good” as many servers do), she hands-down said the crab dish was unlike anything she had ever tasted. So I took her advice to heart and ordered the dish, which was oh-so-good, far beyond any description I could possibly offer. Although I’ll try.

Like my first course, the crab stew was boldly flavored. The house-made kimchi packed a spicy punch, and its sour flavor and texture from the cabbage with the smooth, buttery crab made it very pleasant to eat. Each spoonful was an unapologetic, perfectly balanced umami bite of addictive, comforting flavors. The runny yolk from the sunny side up egg put the richness of the dish way over the top (in a good way!) and the crunch of the scallions and peanuts kept each bite interesting. I would travel back to Boston just to eat this dish again.

Of course, I wasn’t even done with the meal yet. My final course had yet to arrive!

I was starting to get a bit full at this point, and had I not already ordered a third dish, I probably wouldn’t have. And you could definitely be satisfied with just two courses, as I mentioned before. While I was waiting in between courses, I mentally told myself that it would be okay to not finish my last course. And then it was presented.

This other 2^nd course was a house-made garganelli pasta with duck confit, toasted hazelnuts, mushrooms, and spigarello, a leafy green. There was great winter flavor to this dish, between the pasta, the spigarello, the hazelnuts, and the fresh parmesan cheese grated over top.

The duck confit itself was very good, although possibly superfluous – while I enjoyed it, I’m not sure that the dish needed the meat at all. And like all my other dishes that night, there was incredible flavor and textural balance, making every bite supremely enjoyable.

My only critique the whole night – and an incredibly minor one – is that some of the pieces (in all of the dishes) were left quite large, so it was hard to maneuver and balance all of the components of the dish onto my fork at the same time to enjoy them as a single bite. The larger pieces were certainly a plus in some cases, like the lovely chunks of lump crab in the stew, but overall I would have liked to have more mixed bites since the dishes were so good when you got to eat everything together.

A Sweet Ending

The regular 4-course tasting menu includes a dessert course as the final two options, however I had consciously chosen three savory dishes with the idea of forgoing dessert entirely. And honestly, I was pretty full after the first two of my three courses, although you probably couldn’t tell, given how I devoured them all!

Suffice it to say that even two courses would be plenty of food for a lot of people, and dessert for me was definitely not necessary. Of course, while I politely declined dessert when asked, the meal still wasn’t quite over yet.

To my surprise, despite being in the ‘standing wine bar’ nook perched on a stool and an itty bitty ledge to eat off of, I got all of the benefits that typically happen at a restaurant when you order a tasting menu.

Not only did I have an amuse bouche and the bread with house spreads to start my meal, but the meal also ended on an equally generous note.

First (after refusing dessert) I was served a perfectly tart and bitter sorbet of grapefruit and Campari liqueur. Even though I don’t usually love either of those flavors on their own, I couldn’t resist a taste. And let’s be real, by this point I certainly had full trust in anything this restaurant served. The sorbet was a very nice palate cleanser/digestif to end a very rich and luscious meal.

Then another complimentary dessert plate arrived (no, I’m not kidding!) with a small square of brownie and a slice of homemade granola. I probably shouldn’t have, but I ate the entire brownie immediately and then really was at my absolute limit.

In the end, it was quite a lot of dessert for a person who had declined, but I of course enjoyed the sorbet and brownie bite, and filled to the brim, put the granola in my purse for later. Conveniently it was already wrapped in brown paper for exactly this purpose =)

And after all that delicious food, I knew I would need to take a nice long walk, so pushed the idea of a taxi out of my head and had a very blissful walk home, with a smile plastered on my face, and the flavors and memories of this incredible meal still bouncing around.

Final Thoughts

My foodie tastebuds are happy all over again as I relive this meal by writing about it. Certainly, if you’ll be in the Boston area, this would be top of my list to seek out while you’re there. And if you’re not going anytime soon, plan a trip!

And forget reserving seats for the typical tasting menu – you’re likely to pay less than a typical night out if you’re willing to enjoy your meal in the waiting nook that is the ‘standing wine bar.’ Plus, you’ll have complete control over which combination of courses to enjoy if you dine there.

What makes a meal outstanding for you? What’s *your* best dining experience of the year so far? (‘Cause let’s be real, wherever it is, I want to go.) Share away in the ‘Comments’!

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How to Spend One Day in Cremona, Italy

April 25, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Living in Milan, I was always on the lookout for easy day trips from the city, and I just could not pass up the opportunity to check out Cremona. What started on a whim turned into one of the most rewarding day trips I took anywhere during my three years in Italy.

What makes a day in Cremona so incredible? Like Mainz (my favorite day trip from Frankfurt, Germany), Cremona has stunningly beautiful sights to see, all of which can be visited in a single, relaxing day. This makes it a perfect candidate for a day trip, when you can see quite a bit and feel like you’ve covered the main tourist attractions.

I arrived seeking out the world-famous Stradivarius violins, and found so much more to explore and appreciate when I arrived. Even this New York Times article notes, “There’s More to Cremona Than Violins.” Most of the top things to do are around the main square, or piazza, with other sights to see depending on your interests.

That is not to discount the beauty of the violins, though. I spent far longer in the Violin Museum than I typically would, both for the extensive, interactive exhibits and also the sheer beauty of the Stradivarius violins. As happens to me sometimes, I stood awestruck at the incredible beauty and craftsmanship of the violins. Truly mesmerizing, and this is not just blogger hyperbole here. You can read more about this top experience of 2016 for me here in my post about being thankful, and of course below.

Cremona, despite not having a university or nearby wine region, is one of the more impressive places you can spend a day in Italy. A few reasons why…

Things to Do

Cathedral & Baptistery

Cremona’s Cathedral is quite impressive, dating back to the 12^th century and decorated inside with beautiful artwork. The complex is quite large, and each facade has a different appearance to take in. The octagonal Baptistery nearby is formally a Cathedral annex, where children would be baptized before being allowed to enter the Cathedral. It is a fairly bare building possibly more impressive from the outside, but it’s worth popping in if you’ve purchased a combination ticket (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting‘ section below).

Piazza del Commune

This is the main piazza in town, where you’ll find the Cathedral, Baptistery, and Bell Tower. However, the piazza itself is quite striking, and there are a variety of open areas with sculptures and other art along its perimeter. Leave aside time just to wander around, especially along the many pedestrian side streets that connect to the square.

Torazzo Bell Tower & Astronomical Clock

The Bell Tower and its Astronomical Clock, adjacent to the Cathedral, were two unexpected superlatives of my time in Cremona. The Torazzo of Cremona is the 3^rd-tallest brick tower in the world! Not only can you gaze upon it from the Piazza del Commune, but it is also possible to climb its 502 steps to the top. I love being able to get a high viewpoint whenever I can as I travel, and it’s lovely to look over the surrounding countryside.

On the outside facade of the Torazzo is the largest astronomical clock in the world! It tracks the movements of the sun and moon, as well as eclipses. You can get a closer look at its inner mechanism and explore an exhibit about how it works when you climb the tower. Definitely one of the highlights of my day.

Violin Museum (Museo del Violino)

This is the main attraction for most visitors to Cremona, and one of the best museums I’ve ever visited. Unfortunately pictures are forbidden inside, however I’ve included a picture above from when some instruments were on loan to another museum.

Highlights of visiting included the detailed and interactive displays on crafting violins, from the most famous ones made by Antonio Stradivari to those crafted by other local artisans. Stradivari even made a pretty fabulously-decorated guitar! I was completely mesmerized by the beauty of his instruments, and just couldn’t take my eyes off of them. You can read more about the experience here in my post about being thankful.

Another of the most interesting parts for me were the instruments on display from the many years of the triennial violin-making competition. Not only could you see the various violins, violas, basses, and cellos on display, but there were snippets of music that had been played on each that you could listen to on the audio guide. And they really did all sound different!

TIP! There are a lot of concerts and special events at the museum, check the schedule online before you go.

TIP! If you’d like to visit during the triennial violin-making competition, the next one is in 2018!

Best Bites

Hosteria 700

I sought this restaurant out because it offers a lot of Cremonese specialties, like the stuffed marubini pasta, often filled with a mixture of beef, chicken, and veal. They also have some innovative ways to present Italian ingredients, like the shockingly sweet caramelized onion tatin, with a gelato made of grana cheese. A very elevated and satisfying dining experience for such a small Italian town.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

The easiest way to arrive in Cremona is by train, and most sights are in easy walking distance of the train station. There are many direct trains a day from Milan, as well as other northern Italian towns, like Brescia. Cremona is just over an hour by train from Milan.

When you arrive, a lot of the main sights to see are part of the Cathedral complex. Be sure to ask about combined entrance tickets for discounted admission.

Certainly this is not an exhaustive list of the sights to see in Cremona, and a lot of the beauty I took in was just from strolling around town. If you spend more time or have a more ambitious itinerary, you can seek out some of the other tourist attractions, like the Stradivarius house, the Archaeological Museum, the Po River, and other churches around town.

Have you ever visited a place for a single sight? Would *you* go to Cremona just to see the Stradivarius violins?

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Best Eating I’ve Ever Done While Camping: Western Australia’s Southern Forests

April 13, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

What mental image comes to mind when you think of camping? Struggling to feed the long metal stick through the flaps to support your tent? Waking up with a backache after sleeping on uneven ground? Consuming a half-cold bite of food that was heated up over the fire?

Those images certainly conjure some of the camping of my childhood, but I learned over several camping trips with my Perth friends recently that camping Australia-style can actually be quite comfortable with not much additional effort. From easy-to-assemble tents to air mattresses to caravan parks with refreshingly hot showers, it can actually be quite cozy to have a few nights on the road.

Camping can also involve some pretty incredible dining, and I was just wowed at what culinary delights were available as you go south of Perth. My hiking lunches were satisfying sandwiches made from supplies picked up in advance at the supermarket, but my other meals were incredibly wonderful and I still can’t stop raving about how amazing it all was.

Brekky

Brekky, Australian slang for breakfast, can sometimes be the priciest meal of the day. But oh, is it worth it. Aussies know how to make a mean poached egg, and they really unleash their creativity when it comes to Australian breakfast menus. All of the breakfasts I had on this recent camping trip were very different, but equally delicious.

Miami Bakehouse

A bakehouse is basically a casual bakery serving coffee, pastries, and savory pies (or savoury, if you’re British/Aussie). I had visited this award-winning bakehouse for pies back when I lived in Perth, but this trip was my first time there for coffee and breakfast. While it’s a bit pricier than other bakehouses in Western Australia, the food and coffee here is far superior. I had an excellent flat white and pecan tart this trip. It may look casual, but the flavors are incredible!

Lavender & Berry Farm

This spot got visited on a whim for a scenic breakfast, after seeing it as one of the attractions close by. I love lavender in baked goods, so when I saw the Giant Lavender Scone on the menu, there was really no decision to be made. It exceeded my expectations, and the bites with the clotted cream and honey were especially good. Great chai tea as well, and lovely outdoor seating.

Emu Point Cafe

This was the breakfast destination of choice on the final camping morning for its proximity to the caravan park, so there was no advance research or high expectations. After ‘taking a squiz’ (looking) at the breakfast menu, it became apparent that this was going to be a nicer breakfast than your typical, random spot in Western Australia, with some creative combinations. I slowly savored two poached eggs with herb and spicy toppings, garlic yogurt, and the perfect amount of Turkish bread for dipping.

Nibbles

The Truffle & Wine Co.

Let’s be real, I stopped here just to taste wine and truffles (did you know there are truffles in Western Australia?!?). But when another group ordered a truffle tasting plate, I couldn’t resist a snack. What a delicious sampling of bites that provided just the right energy boost for the giant tree climbing and hiking that came afterward. P.S. Their wine is pretty great, too!

Dinner

Foragers

This was the only eatery in this post that was planned in advance, to join the Saturday night dinner experience at this restaurant in Pemberton, with a tasting menu that changes weekly. Produce is local to the specific region, not just Western Australia. And although the dishes may look simple on the sample menus on their website, the dishes are so well-balanced and expertly executed that each bite makes you pause a bit to savor the flavors. It’s worth a weekend trip to Pemberton just to eat this meal!

What’s the best food you’ve ever enjoyed while camping? How do you decide where to eat when you’re on the road? I’d love to hear your tips!

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10 Amazing Things You Probably Didn’t Know about Stockholm

March 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I consider myself an avid and fairly knowledgeable traveler, yet on my first trip to Stockholm last year for a blogging conference, I realized how woefully inadequate my knowledge of Stockholm and Sweden really was. Other than devouring The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo book series that is set there, what did I really know about the city?

Scandinavia for me, even when I was living in Europe, was always put off as a travel destination because there were cities I could get to for cheaper for a weekend escape. Unless I was going skiing or to see the northern lights, winter was probably not the right season for a trip, and the timing never seemed to be right during summer. Although after having visited Stockholm in July, I now think that Stockholm would be even better to visit outside of summer, maybe during the spring or fall.

Perhaps because I had so few expectations, was Stockholm able to surprise me with so many quirks and unexpected twists of history that crossed the city’s path. From sights and foods that I had no clue about, to observations about the city and Swedes in general, I left with a whole new appreciation for Stockholm. Compiling this list is making me yearn for a return visit, and will make you want to visit as soon as you can!

Some things that surprised me…

#1 | Stockholm is a City on Water

When I say this, I don’t mean that Stockholm has a river running down the middle. The whole city is made of up islands! It’s not the only city with this moniker, but many refer to Stockholm as the ‘Venice of the North.’ Stockholm is made up of a bunch of 14 islands and 57 bridges, all of which compose part of Sweden’s largest archipelago. I loved crossing the bridges on foot to move between the sights on the different islands, and there are some stunning views across the water, as you can see. I really was clueless on this one before my visit, so don’t feel bad if you were, too! I always pictured Scandinavian cities as having quaint buildings in close proximity, but I was totally unprepared to visit a city I thought of as being squarely on land that instead had waterways seemingly everywhere you looked.

#2 | What’s the currency?

I’m used to handling currency with the faces of serious historical figures or past presidents, prime ministers, and royalty. Sweden? They put Swedish figures of all flavors on their money, from movie stars to authors, including multiple women! Pictured above is the 20 kronor note is Astrid Lindgren, author of Pippi Longstocking (who you can also see pictured on the bill if you look closely). Other current banknotes in circulation depict Greta Garbo and Ingmar Bergman. But as cool as the cash is (to me as a foreigner, anyway), there is a strong move toward using cards and not cash. Credit cards are accepted pretty much everywhere, for any size transaction, and some places won’t even take cash! Check out that sign above from Fotografiska, a Stockholm photography museum that won’t accept cash for its admission.

#3 | The World’s Longest Art Exhibit

I’ve seen art in metro stations before, but the sheer scope of the art in Stockholm’s 110 kilometers of subway stops has led to it being called the ‘World’s Longest Art Exhibit.’ Originally conceived as a way to bring art to the people, over 90 of Stockholm’s 100 subway stations have artists’ works, each specifically designed for the station and covering many different themes and types of art. This gallery with photographs of different station art gives a sense of how colorful and varied the artists’ approaches have been over the years, and in some cases, how the final artwork is an all-encompassing experience for those passing through the station.

#4 | Stockholm Resurrected a Ship After Over 300 Years at the Bottom of the Sea

The most famous shipwreck I had never heard of before? The 1628 sinking of the Vasa warship just over a kilometer after it departed on its maiden voyage. You might wonder if it was under attack or perhaps had struck something and then sunk? Nope. Covered in cannons, the boat was a bit top-heavy, and tragically tipped over and sunk after some wind gusts caused water to gush in and the ship couldn’t right itself. Many onlookers had crowded Stockholm’s shores to see the ship off, so the tragedy was witnessed by many, with 30 of the crew perishing in the accident. After several failed attempts at the time to recover the ship, it lay nearly forgotten until centuries later.

The 1^st cool thing – Sweden raised the ship after 333 years! This was no small feat, as they raised the entire ship, not just bringing up the sections piecemeal. The 2^nd cool thing – how they preserved the ship once it was recovered. Apparently you can’t just take a ship out of water after several hundred years and expect it to be like new. For 17 straight years, the ship was continuously hosed with a special solution to keep it preserved and prevent cracking as it dried. The combination of the brackish water (not quite as salty as an ocean) and cold temperatures meant that when the ship was raised, its contents were incredibly well-preserved. Apparently the waters surrounding Stockholm were also quite polluted during that time, keeping away many of the critters that would have otherwise consumed the wood. And today you get to visit the continued preservation home of the Vasa ship, where you can see the intricate wood ornamentation up close at Stockholm’s Vasa Museum, constructed around the ship.

#5 | Behold, the Cardamom Bun

Sure, you’ve heard of a cinnamon bun, and maybe even knew from visiting your local IKEA store that cinnamon buns are a Swedish thing. What you probably didn’t realize is that when you are in Stockholm the more common (and in my opinion, more delicious) sweet bun is actually the cardamom bun. If you’re not familiar, cardamom is an aromatic spice that shows up in chai tea and that I’ve only ever used before for cooking Indian recipes like curry. So what on earth is it doing as the main spice to accompany the sweets enjoyed during fika, the Swedish coffee break?

Legend has it that cardamom was introduced to Scandinavia by the Vikings quite some time ago, and now cardamom is all the rage in breads and other pastries there. I had at least 1 cardamom bun a day while I was in Stockholm, and they are just the right mixture of savory and sweet for me. After all of my reckless consumption research, check out my post on the Best Bites in Stockholm for where I enjoyed my favorite version.

#6 | Swedes take Design Very Seriously

For many, IKEA is synonymous with Swedish design and with good reason. The company’s streamlined approach has made millions of people all across the world familiar with assembling an IKEA bookshelf or table. It’s not just the result of a designer making a pretty drawing, though. As you can see above, the steps of a homemaker were traced and recorded, leading to the design of an IKEA kitchen that would be as efficient as possible. There is also a sense of design even in the public spaces around Stockholm. From outside gathering areas to the quotes you can see above that were interwoven into street pavement, it is all about the little touches and detail that enhance your everyday experience.

#7 | Sweden was Neutral During World War II, But Played an Important Role

Since Sweden was officially neutral during the Second World War, I don’t think I had given much thought to any role it might have had. However, there are many reminders around the city of Stockholm of ways that Sweden played a part. During the war, Sweden gave asylum to nearly 1,000 Norwegian Jews and accepted (and saved) nearly the entire Danish Jewish population after Denmark became occupied by the Nazis. And commemorated in the Stockholm memorial pictured above is Raoul Wallenberg, a Swedish diplomat stationed in Budapest during the war who issued protective passports to tens of thousands of Jews there. He was supposedly captured by the Soviets before the end of the war, and never resurfaced, with a formal declaration of death only just being issued in late 2016.

#8 | Nobel’s Legacy in Stockholm

I follow the hoopla surrounding the Nobel prize winners each year, but I don’t think it clicked that with the exception of the Nobel Peace Prize (which is given in Oslo, Norway) all of the other prizes are awarded in Stockholm. The annual banquet is held at Stockholm City Hall, and you can visit the Hall there that serves as the current venue for the illustrious meal. Stockholm also boasts a Nobel Museum that I visited, with many significant objects on display that past prize winners donated and information about their contributions. Honestly, the museum was quite outdated, but I geeked out anyway. And for any future visits, a major modernization effort for the museum is currently in the works.

#9 | Gourmet Hot Dogs Everywhere You Turn

I was ready for the Swedish food – cinnamon buns, meatballs, cured salmon, lingonberry jam, but . . . hot dogs?!? And we’re not just talking one or two different varieties, here. Many vendors I saw had dozens of different varieties of Swedish hot dog or korv, each with its own unique blend of spices combined with different types of meat. Korv definitely made my list of ‘Unexpected Foods to Seek Out in European Cities’ and with the perfect spicy, meat blend on a toasted baguette and the right mix of condiments, this also ended up being one of the best things I ate during my visit. Head to my post on Stockholm’s Best Bites for where I enjoyed the best hot dog of the trip.

#10 | A Whole Museum Dedicated to ABBA

ABBA, the 70s pop group that took the world by storm with chart toppers like “Mamma Mia” and “Dancing Queen,” formed in Stockholm. So I guess it shouldn’t have come as a surprise that there is an entire museum dedicated to not only their music, but the outrageous outfits and good time that they inspired. Entering immediately transports you to the 70s, with bell bottoms and bright colored lights everywhere you look. It’s hugely interactive, from karaoke opportunities to starring in your own music video where you get to dance along to the ABBA hits. And if you’re like me, the catchy tunes will be swirling around in your head for days afterward.

It’s not often that a city surprises me as much as Stockholm did. Some of the things I discovered might have come up in more thorough research before my trip, but other items on my list I feel like I only would have learned by visiting and exploring in person. The beauty of travel =)

What was the last travel destination that caught *you* by surprise? Anything else that surprised you about Stockholm that didn’t make my list? Share in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

March 21, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

A friend first sang Oman’s praises around two years ago, talking about this country as being unspoiled Middle East. Then last April my sister had a similarly wonderful experience. After my December road trip there with my other sister, I too came back raving about this lesser-visited corner of the Middle East. So much so that Oman made my list of Top 10 Destinations for 2017, and I keep recommending it when people ask for somewhere ‘off the beaten path’ to go. But just because you won’t find Oman inundated with tourists doesn’t mean that it’s any less stunning than other nearby destinations. It’s less commercialized than other countries in the region, making it a more authentic-feeling experience. And the Omani hospitality is incredible everywhere, so you can’t help but to feel welcome when you visit.

The highlights of my week-long visit vary from natural attractions to modern buildings to UNESCO World Heritage sites dating back millenia, and I don’t exaggerate when I say that each was a special experience during my time in Oman:

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

This mosque in Oman’s capital city of Muscat is part of a huge and breathtakingly beautiful complex of prayer rooms, pathways, and gardens. The main prayer room is notable for having the second-largest chandelier and carpet in the world, and this is certainly where you’ll find the largest concentration of tourists. But the complex is vast enough that you can be alone for a lot of your wandering, just taking in the small details of every architectural feature and decorative element. And despite being only about 20 years old, the mosque transmits a strong sense of history as you explore. It’s also stunning when lit up at night.

Al Alam Royal Palace

I knew in advance that there would be no possibility of visiting the inside of the Sultan’s palace in Muscat, so I expected that it would be a quick stop to snap a few photos and then continue on. But like many things in Oman, there is more beauty to take in than you ever could have expected. You’ll know you’re looking at a picture of the Sultan’s Palace by its distinctive bright colors, but of course it is not just a single building but a huge area with many buildings and broad pedestrian walkways leading up to the palace. Close to the water, there are also several former Portuguese forts that are visible on the nearby hills.

Walk to Sawadi Island

Yes, you read that correctly, we walked to an island! About an hour’s drive north of Muscat along the Omani coast are a series of islands, and during low tide you can make your way across on foot from Al Sawadi beach. This was one of my Travel Superlatives for 2016, as one of the most adventurous things I did all year. My sister and I crossed about two hours before low-tide, and the water level reached just above the knees for both of us, and then returned on foot in shallower water close to low tide and sunset. Fortunately we both had our water-ready sport sandals on, and so when we arrived on the island, we were able to hike to the top of the island’s hill where there is a fort complex to explore. And the best part? It was a weekday and we had the island all to ourselves.

Forts and Castles

It’s sometimes hard to distinguish between the forts and castles (and some structures were used as both at different points in time), but there are hundreds across Oman and you’ll definitely see quite a few during your visit. I certainly didn’t know to expect one walking to Sawadi island, and they turned up unexpectedly many times during the trip. Although I did visit the Bahla Fort, one of the UNESCO-designated ones, there was poor signage in most places, which took away from the visit. The Nizwa Fort is also notable, with a distinctive cylindrical tower and close to a centrally located town where we spent a couple of nights. Certainly my favorite one to visit was the Jabreen (Jibreen) Castle, which has extensive signage and explanations of the different areas, and also has a lot of original decorative elements still visible.

Jabal Shams & the Grand Canyon of Oman

This mountainous area northwest of Nizwa known as the Jabal Shams contains many peaks as well as deep valleys and canyons, the area known as the Grand Canyon of Oman. Accessible only by a 4×4 vehicle, you’ll either need to have rented one or hire your own tour guide. There is some information you can get at your accommodations in terms of hiking routes, although if you are not especially comfortable on your own you’ll want to hire a guide. Definitely spend a day here, wandering the hiking trails, taking in the views, and seeing some of the water-blessed areas sprinkled throughout.

Aflaj, Oman’s Ancient Irrigation Channels

Aflaj is the plural of falaj, the local name for a single ancient irrigation channel. The aflaj system throughout Oman and dating back around 2,000 years is so remarkable that it has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I too was wowed by its ingenuity. These clever channels are no longer used as a water source for drinking, but still to this day capture and funnel water for different farming purposes and even to fill pools for swimming. Typically there are stones that are fit to the gaps between different channels, allowing for control of the water flow depending on the needs of the moment. The simplicity and elegance of this ancient system for me rivaled the aqueducts of the Roman Empire, and I loved being able to see them in different parts of the country. The most intricate falaj I saw was at Misfat al Abriyyin, although they are also visible at Falaj Daris Park by Nizwa, and in several wadis, inlcuding Wadi Bani Khalid (see more below).

Stay Overnight in the Desert

Oman, like other countries in the Middle East, is comprised of quite a few desert areas that still have nomadic peoples wandering through. There are also a number of options for staying overnight in the desert, from desert camps where you’ll stay in a tent to regular hotel rooms that are simply far away from the rest of civilization. I love staying in tents whenever I can, for the peace of the desert at night and for visibility of the stars on a clear night.

Wadi Bani Khalid

This is the destination for a popular weekend trip, even for those who live several hundred kilometers away in Muscat. The waters in this desert oasis are ample year-round, and there are quite a lot of marked trails and a couple of restaurants on site to cater to all the visitors. This wadi is known for its caves, which remain difficult to access unless you find a hospitable Omani like we did, and for its connected pools where you can do a water hike between the different levels. As many locals come here – especially on the weekend of Friday and Saturday – be sure to dress modestly, even for the time you’ll spend in the water swimming. Like many wadis, the water here is filled with fish that will give you a natural pedicure by nibbling off the dead skin on your feet. I tried this, but decided that the sensation was just not for me, although most people seemed to enjoy (or at least tolerate) the nibbling for the smooth feet you’ll get if you’re patient.

Bimmah Sinkhole

Called the “world’s most stunning sinkhole” by the Daily Mail, this sinkhole about an hour’s drive south of Muscat along the coast is a burst of turquoise beauty in the middle of an otherwise arid region. Especially on the weekend, it’s a destination for locals, expats, and tourists alike, jumping off into the deep well that for me was reminiscent of a Mexican cenote. Like other nearby bodies of water, the fish that eat the dead skin off your feet are here as well, so you can treat yourself to a natural pedicure even if you don’t join in the swimming. It’s also a popular spot for a picnic and even has visitor facilities.

Eat Omani Food (this will not be easy!)

One of the more surprising things about visiting Oman was how challenging it was to find Omani food. Omanis typically eat at home, and like some of its Middle Eastern neighbors, Oman has a lot of workers from other countries that seek out their home cuisine. Which means that it is easier to find Indian or Lebanese dishes than ones native to the area. That said, Oman has been at the crossroads of trading routes for quite a long time, so the cuisine is comprised of a mix of influences, including some Omani versions of curry. One of the most typical Omani things I ate were halwa, a date-based sweet spread often flavored with rosewater. Also typical was shuwa, a dish made from meat that has been spiced, wrapped in banana leaves, and buried with hot ashes underground to cook for 24 hours.

Enjoy Omani Coffee and Dates (this will be a breeze)

A key component of Omani hospitality, coffee and dates are often the complimentary dessert served at the end of the meal, or the snack available at all hours at your accommodation. Omani coffee is a very aromatic, spiced concoction and will likely not taste anything like the coffee you typically consume, so approach it as an entirely new beverage. And the dates of Oman are incredible – I ate the best dates of my life on this trip.

Traditional Boat Tour in the Musandam Peninsula

The Musandam peninsula is by the Strait of Hormuz close to Iran, and while still part of Oman, it is geographically separate from the rest of the country, with the United Arab Emirates located in between. Musandam is accessible by flying or by car transfer from Dubai, with the town of Khasab as the traditional departure point for the boat tours. Musandam is comprised of stunning fjord-like inlets, and of course the traditional dhow boat tour is an excellent way to explore the beauty of this area. There are many tour providers, all of which will follow a similar itinerary, stopping at several points in the area, providing snorkel equipment to explore the crystal-clear water, and providing traditional Omani meals and refreshments on board. And in all likelihood the dolphins will come out to play at several points during the day, putting on quite the show.

Oman really was such an incredible vacation destination for a week, and one country I was so glad to visit with my sister. We did encounter some solo travelers, but I find that road trips are always more fun with a buddy, and in this case was strategic with the adventure of navigating. There were so many beautiful sights (and plenty of camels) that we saw along the way, this list just scratches the surface of what you’ll find in Oman.

Which attraction interests you the most? Anything you’d still want to read about Oman in a future post to help plan a visit? Or something you think should have been included on this list of top things to do? Let me know in the Comments!

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Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London

March 23, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

The town of Bath, an easy train ride from London, lived up to and far exceeded my mental picture of what it would be like to spend a few days in a quaint British town. Trying to coordinate visiting two different friends in London this past fall (and seeing an NFL game in London in the process!) I ended up with two packed weekends and no plans in between. Which didn’t seem like the worst outcome to me, especially since the value of the pound had fallen quite a bit by then following the Brexit vote. So it just became a matter of how I would spend the days in between.

I’ve been to London a number of times, but have never really ventured much outside of the city (other than visiting Stonehenge back in 2007). After polling a bunch of British friends, the most frequent suggestion I received was to go to the town of Bath. The site of the only natural hot springs in the United Kingdom, if the town was good enough to be beloved by the Roman Empire, surely I could find a few things to do over a couple of days in town. Plus, although I didn’t realize this before making my plans, the entire town of Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the end, Bath really wowed me, and I felt like I had a variety of interesting things to do, time to relax, and ate some really great food along the way. Bath is also a popular family destination, and my time there was quite crowded as it coincided with a school holiday week (who knew that ‘half-term’ was a cause for vacation?). So if I fell in love with the town on a busy week, just imagine how much you’ll love it when you go.

Things to Do

Around Town

Bath Abbey

Located in the town’s central pedestrian area, the Abbey is not to be missed. The interior is filled with high arches and colors streaming in through the stained glass windows, but even more intriguing is the Tower Tour that will take you to the hidden stairwells, the bell ringing chamber, and onto the roof for excellent views in all directions.

Jane Austen House

Although I did not visit, I’m including the Jane Austen House on my list because it is one of Bath’s most popular attractions. Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years, and while she supposedly did not like it, she did end up setting two of her novels in Bath – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. The house has period furnishings and tells of Jane’s time in Bath.

The Roman Baths

Once the Romans discovered the natural thermal springs of Bath, they did the only logical thing – they built a spa! Not to be confused with the modern spa (see below), this is the incredibly well-preserved historical site. It’s a huge complex that will take a couple of hours to fully explore, as you progress through the temple and various treatment rooms of ancient times. The audioguide is excellent, and offers different perspectives, including some commentary by one of the funniest authors I’ve ever read, Bill Bryson. Be sure to take a (small) taste of the thermal spring water at the end before you leave.

Thermae Bath Spa

With pools fed by the natural hot springs, this is a world-class spa to have a relaxing several hours during your stay in Bath. There are steam rooms with different calming aromas, pools of different temperatures and with jets to soothe sore muscles, and a hot pool on the roof with an expansive view of town. In addition to the several hours of lounging in the different pools that was included in my package, I also had an excellent massage here.

TIP! If you will be in Bath on a weekend or during school holidays, book ahead of time to ensure that you can get in to the spa.

TIP! As long as no masseuses call in sick, additional slots may open up in the morning for the same day. Call the reservation line first thing in the morning if you haven’t been able to reserve in advance.

TIP! There are a lot of good package deals including massages, especially mid-week. If you’re not sure which one to choose, I’d definitely recommend either talking through the options and their relative prices with someone over the phone or in person at the spa before you reserve.

Off the Beaten Path

The Holburne Museum

This is one of my favorite museums of all time! I’m not always a museum person, but I’m so glad I strolled a bit out of the center to arrive here. The main collection is free, and has so much character and a wealth of interesting items that Sir William Holburne collected during his lifetime. I didn’t have nearly enough time, so I’d recommend coming early enough in the day that you have the time to be leisurely.

TIP! Open all of the drawers in the main collection, as some of the most interesting tidbits and interactive displays were inside.

Prior Park Landscape Garden

I didn’t make it to this National Trust site as it’s a bit outside of the city and I ran out of time, but it looks absolutely beautiful from the pictures I’ve seen, especially of the Palladian Bridge located there. I’d say it’s worth the time going from town on public transit, which looks pretty straightforward, and certainly is a place to pop into if you have a car.

Royal Crescent

The Royal Crescent is a quite lengthy curved section of connected houses, which is distinctive-looking both for its curvature and sheer size. The math geek in me can’t help but point out that it is semi-elliptical, not semi-circular. The entire Royal Crescent was built in the late 1700s, and the house that stands at No. 1 Royal Crescent is actually a museum you can visit, with period furnishings.

Royal Victoria Park

If you’ve spent a bit of time exploring in town, this park that is a relatively easy walk from the center and is a great spot to get a dose of greenery and stroll in nature. I spent a bit of time wandering one of my mornings, and it was a great way to have a relaxing start to my day. It is also notable for being the first park named after the 11-year old (not-yet-Queen) Victoria.

Best Bites

Boston Tea Party

A cute, centrally-located cafe where I enjoyed breakfast one of my mornings, there is an array of coffee, tea, pastries, and breakfast dishes to choose from. I enjoyed their sweetcorn hash, with haloumi, poached eggs, and avocado. A great savory way to energize for a busy day of sightseeing.

The Bridge Coffee Shop

On the way from town to the Holburne Museum (see above), this coffee shop serves up great hot beverages, although the big draw is the lovely view of the river. Even if the tables on the river side of the shop are taken when you arrive, keep an eye out for departing guests so you can relocate to take in the scenery as you sip.

Chaiwalla Indian Street Food

Right in the heart of town, the vegetarian Indian food served here at super-reasonable prices will satisfy your hunger. The friendly owner/chef can help you decide between the excellent options, or just keep an eye on the dishes prepared to order ahead of you for a sense of which flavorful and delicious option you’d like to order. Conveniently, there are several benches across the street to enjoy your takeaway meal.

Olé Tapas

Oh my goodness, you must come here for dinner! Recommended to me by a friend who lives in London, it’s a really great Spanish tapas spot that was quite crowded when I went. Fortunately as a solo traveler I didn’t have to wait long before being able to snag a seat at the bar, but if you’re in a party larger than one, you probably want to reserve a table in advance as the space is small. The tapas are excellent, the staff is friendly, and anything you order off their special gin cocktail menu (ask for it if needed) will be crafted with incredible care and wow you with its unique flavor combinations.

Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum

Located in one of the oldest houses in Bath, you’re likely to encounter a line out the door to dine in for one of Bath’s specialty buns. Fortunately, if you’re not interested in dining in, you can bypass the line to visit the display area downstairs with some history of the house and the bun, as well as purchase a freshly-baked Sally Lunn bun. The bun has a crust around the outside, is like an airy brioche inside, and comes in one size only that is as big as your head!

The Scallop Shell

Come here for the same reason as everybody else – their award-winning fish & chips. The fish is quite fresh, and unlike some other spots, you get a choice of the type of fish to be fried up with your chips. You can also get your dishes to take away, which can be an appealing option when the restaurant is busy and the line is long.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Bath was a great place to spend a few days, and certainly one of the things that stands out for me was how easy transportation was both to get to Bath and once you arrived. And the town is definitely set up for visitors, with user-friendly pedestrian maps posted in several spots around town. There are plenty of coffee shops around as well, with proper espresso-based drinks as well as the tea options you’d expect in England.

TIP! The buses within Bath are cheap and easy to use, so if you’re traveling a long distance or are simply tired of walking, take advantage. My guesthouse was a bit far from the train station, so I also took a bus when I was arriving and departing with my luggage.

TIP! Bath is a popular family destination, so it will be significantly more crowded during school holidays. Check for the dates of local holidays so you can book accordingly.

TIP! Although the timing wasn’t right during my visit, there are quite a few live theatre performances that take place in Bath. You can peruse the options here. There are also lots of restaurants with pre-theatre meal specials.

Have you been to Bath? What were the highlights for you? Or do you have a different favorite trip for a few days outside of London? Share in the ‘Comments’ below!

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8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore

March 14, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Singaporeans are all about the food! Many say that eating (and arguing about the best restaurant or hawker stand for a particular food) is a national pastime, making Singapore a great foodie destination or perfect for anyone who just loves to eat. Singaporeans take their food pretty seriously, which you can get a bit of a sense of from one of my top books to inspire travel. Of course you’ll understand much better when you enjoy the delicious result that comes from a culture that is so culinarily inclined.

This also means that when you search the internet for what foods to try while you’re visiting Singapore, you’ll have the experience that I did – finding website after website with suggestions of specific dishes, some with lists of 30 items or more. Unless you’re moving to Singapore, you’ll need a much smaller list of typical dishes to reasonably be able to sample during your visit. Even more so if you’ll only have a layover to explore. But not to worry, over my week there I worked my way through a ‘To Eat’ list and am now sharing with you my top foods to seek out while you’re there. Of course, this is all in consultation with my friends (including some native Singaporeans) who were generous enough to take me around and make sure I ate well during my visit. Which seems to be the very serious responsibility of any Singaporean host: making sure the guest eats well.

The culinary landscape in Singapore is focused on a lot of hawker stands, meaning open market areas with plenty of food stalls, each with one or a few specialties they’ll serve. For many of the dishes I mention below, you could enter nearly any market in Singapore and find a tasty version. There are also plenty of sit-down restaurants that will provide longer dining experiences, and of course be just as delicious.

Here is a doable Foodie Bucket List for your time in Singapore:

Carrot Cake

This Singaporean specialty does not resemble the moist orange cake with cream cheese frosting in the least. Carrot cake in Singapore is closer to the radish cake you may be familiar with from eating dim sum or yum cha. It comes two ways: white and black. The white version is savory and fried with egg like an omelette, while the black version is sauteed with soybeans and somewhat sweet like the Thai noodle specialty pad see ew. I didn’t want to have to choose, so I ordered from a hawker stand where I could get both versions on the same plate. Which did I like better? I couldn’t decide, so alternated my bites between the two.

Where I enjoyed it: Telok Ayer market, close to the Marina Bay Sands hotel and Gardens by the Bay, although I later walked past some great looking versions of carrot cake in Chinatown as well

Char Kway Teow

Many countries have some sort of peasant food dish that packed a lot of calories into a small plate, ideal for utilizing leftovers and keeping manual laborers well fed. This rice noodle stir fry dish is the Singaporean version, also claimed by some of its neighbors. The version I saw most often in Singapore used pork as the protein and also typically included egg and bean sprouts, although the other vegetables varied in the different interpretations of the dish.

Where I enjoyed it: Straits Kitchen, which is a good place to sample many Singaporean specialties because it’s a buffet, especially if you have limited time in country. While the dish is typically made with pork, this buffet is halal so offers a non-pork version.

Chili Crab

This was the first item that was on my ‘To Eat’ list for Singapore, as my sister’s top notable bite when she visited. The whole crab is cooked in a deliciously spicy umami bomb of flavor, which keeps you coming back for more as you enjoy each chunk of crab. Eating is a messy business, but the flavor is so delicious you’ll want some sort of bread or rice to absorb the goodness of the sauce as you eat.

Where I enjoyed it: No Signboard Seafood, although do research into which of their locations you frequent, as some branches have more consistently good food than others. I also hear great things about Long Beach Seafood (which is actually next to where I enjoyed fish head curry – see below)

Fish Head Curry

Like the cultural mix that is Singapore itself, fish head curry is considered to be a cross between an Indian curry and the Chinese delicacy of eating a fish head. While seeing the fish’s eyes staring back at you may give you pause, the rich fish cheeks are to be savored, especially along with the curry sauce.

Where I enjoyed it: Samy’s Curry, close Singapore’s Botanic Gardens

Hainanese Chicken Rice

Although named after a Chinese province, it is believed that this dish really was created in Singapore by Chinese immigrants. The chicken is slow poached and then served sliced, with or without the skin. It is the texture and flavor imparted to the chicken during the cooking process that makes this basic-sounding dish so unique and delicious.

Where I enjoyed it: Boon Tong Kee, which started out as a food stall and now is a sit-down restaurant

Laksa

The story of this dish’s origin varies, but the important thing is that it is beloved by Singaporeans and claimed as their own. Laksa is a soup version of a coconut-based Asian curry, with rice noodles and various types of seafood to soak up the broth that is a perfect balance of salty, spicy, sweet, and sour notes.

Where I enjoyed it: 328 Katong Laksa, a Bib Gourmand pick for great value in the inaugural Michelin Guide for Singapore

Satay

Satay is grilled meat on a skewer, with the types of meat varying by the place. I love getting an assortment of meats, all of which impart a different flavor as you dip it in the typical peanut sauce served alongside. You’ll smell the aromas of the meat wafting toward you from many hawker stalls, although you’ll get authentic versions pretty much anywhere in Singapore.

Where I enjoyed it: Lantern Rooftop Bar at the Fullerton Hotel, overlooking the marina

Singaporean Breakfast

I can’t stop raving about Singaporean breakfast, so much so that I wrote an entire blog post about it, which you can check out here. The typical local breakfast involves Singaporean coffee (they roast the coffee beans in butter!) along with kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs. The kaya spread is basically a coconut jam, but its sweetness is a great contrast to the eggs made savory with soy sauce sprinkled over top. Eat this every day you’re in Singapore!

Where I enjoyed it: Several places you can read about in my blog post, although my favorite spot for the quality of its kaya spread was Killiney Kopitiam, which has several branches across Singapore

What is your favorite local food in Singapore? Anything I missed that you think should also be on this short list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Foodie Bucket List: The 16 Best Local Foods (and Drinks) in Israel

February 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Leading up to my most recent trip to Israel, I was a bit stymied by the ‘travel planning’ phase I engage in for most of my trips. I lived in Israel for a year, which was the start of my extensive traveling. I’ve been back to visit many times since, and not so much changes from year to year. Besides catching up with friends and family, how would I spend my time there?

Then, the night before my trip, I couldn’t stop thinking about all of the foods I knew I wanted to be sure to eat at some point during the ten days. I obviously had to have falafel. And hummus. And shakshuka. The more I thought about it, the longer my list became, until I had a pretty decent list stored on my phone of what foods I would seek out on my travels.

So I arrived with a “To Eat” list instead of a “To Do” list.

Even if you’ve never been to Israel, if you’re familiar with the cuisines of other countries on the Mediterranean Sea, you may recognize some of the foods below – or their variations. In any case, the Israeli versions of these specialties are worth seeking out on your visit. Ask any local, and they’ll point you to the best nearby spot for:

Savory Bites

Shakshuka

The ultimate in savory breakfast, shakshuka consists of a spiced tomato, pepper and onion mixture that is heated and then used as a liquid to poach eggs. A beautiful and incredibly hearty way to start the day. Or do as many Israelis do, and have breakfast for dinner. Find out more about a top spot to sample this typical dish in my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel.

Bourekas

Known as a burek in other countries along the Mediterranean and in Eastern Europe, the Israeli version of bourekas also involves phyllo dough that has been stuffed typically with some sort of savory filling and topped with sesame and/or poppy seeds. The salty cheese and potato ones are most common, although there are plenty of variations on fillings. A lot of markets have stands selling bourekas, or it is a good savory bite to pick up from the bakery section of a supermarket for a snack on the go.

Falafel

A falafel is one of several common Israeli foods served in a puffy pita. The falafel balls themselves consist of ground chickpeas and other spices that are then deep fried. In any reputable falafel stand, you’ll have a variety of toppings to choose from, including spreads like hummus and tahini. Some of my favorite add-ons are marinated cubes of eggplant, pickles, and french fries.

Schwarma

Another typical pita dish found all over Israel, schwarma is filled with meat shaved off of a spit. In Israel it is usually lamb, although you’ll sometimes find chicken versions. Condiments mirror those available for falafel, and make for some tasty bites.

Sabich

The third and final pita dish on this list, sabich has recently become trendy and widely available in Israel, and was my favorite new bite of my last visit. Condiments are also similar to falafel and shwarma, except that the main filling is fried eggplant and chunks of hard-boiled egg. There is just some unctuous savoriness that comes with a well-made sabich that made this the meal I chose for my final dinner before flying home to Milan. Head to my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my favorite spot to eat this local specialty.

Hummus

As you’ve seen above, hummus is a typical condiment for pita-based dishes, however it can also be a stand-alone meal. When hummus made its way onto my “to eat” list, it was not as a dip but the warm hummus that is served with chickpeas and spices or sauteed lamb on top, and then pita bread becomes merely the vehicle for the food, with the hummus and its toppings as the main event.

Jachnun & Malawach

These two types of Middle Eastern concoctions are often made from the same dough and served with the same condiments, so I’ve included them together here. The format differs – for jachnun the dough is rolled into almost a narrow cylinder and malawach is in the form of thick, circular pancakes – but both are brushed with some type of fat or oil. Jachnun tends to be cooked slowly in an oven while malawach is fried, but then both are served with a crushed tomato dip, hard boiled egg, and hot sauce.

Sweet Bites

Baklava

The exact history of baklava’s origins is murky, but the important thing to know is that it is part of local tradition and you’ll eat excellent versions everywhere you go. There are also many varieties beyond the typical bites with flat sections of phyllo dough, some having a more shredded exterior. You can usually find pretty small bites of the different varieties, so go crazy and sample them all!

Halva

There are tons of variations of halva around the world – and I’ve sampled versions from Greece to Oman – but the Israeli version is the one I find most addictive. Locally it’s made from a sesame paste and starts off in a large block that is cut into slices for sale. Varieties abound, and beyond the plain version, you’ll most typically see chocolate or various nuts mixed in. Any market is a great place to sample many different types and then buy a slice or two for later.

‘Exploding’ Chocolate

At any supermarket, head to the row of red Elite chocolate bars and you’ll find this delightful bar of chocolate with pop rocks inside, with little yellow explosions shown on the label. A great snack to have after a picnic meal or while out hiking. It’s also a great souvenir or gift to bring back home, especially if you don’t tell the recipient what to expect when they take a bite.

Krem Bo

I’ve sampled this treat at food markets in Europe also, but my favorite version is still the Israeli Krem Bo. It is a circle of graham cracker covered by a near-cylinder of marshmallow goo and encased in a thin chocolate shell. Due to the summer heat that would melt these pretty quickly, you’ll typically only find Krem Bo for sale in the winter. The good news is that during Israel’s cooler months you can find them almost everywhere, from large supermarkets to the convenience store on the corner. If you’re having trouble finding them (which even I do sometimes despite knowing what they look like), just ask.

Doughnuts

Although doughnuts themselves are not a local food per se, sufganiyot – the doughnuts available around Chanukah time – are taken to a whole new level in Israel. The toppings and fillings available boggle the mind, and really it just becomes a vessel for a baker’s creativity.

TIP! Chanukah is usually in December, depending on the lunar, Jewish calendar for any given year, so check the timing before you go if you’d like to be around for the right 8 days.

Beverages

Nana Tea

Any time of year, hot tea is good way to stay hydrated in the desert. So whether you’re actually in the desert, or at one of the developed cities surrounded by desert, nana tea is the local pick. Nana is a type of spearmint from the Mediterranean whose mint leaves will be placed directly into boiling water, often with a regular tea bag, too. A refreshing cuppa anytime.

Sachlav

You’ll see this milky, comfort beverage more often in winter as many people prefer to consume it hot (although it is served cold as well). In addition to milk, aromatics are added, with the exact mix depending on the recipe. Known by some as ‘the hot chocolate of the Middle East,’ it basically serves the same comfort function of a hot chocolate, mulled wine, or hot cider. Keep an eye out for it at market vendors and even coffee shops in bus and train stations during winter.

Wine

Israeli wine is excellent. A lot of wineries produce kosher wine, but make no mistake – we’re not talking syrupy-sweet Manishewitz here. Some of the best wines I’ve ever had have been from Israel, which produces many varietals of both white and red grapes you’re probably familiar with. Israeli ingenuity has led to exacting production standards that produce a delicious final product year after year. There is also a ton of value with Israeli wine right now, due to all of the competition. Take advantage and sample your way through Israeli wines whenever you have the opportunity. And check out this thorough post on which Israeli wineries are best to visit. If you won’t get a chance to visit wineries in person, but still want to taste the range of Israeli wines, there are dozens of wines that can be sampled at Tel Aviv’s Tasting Room Wine Bar.

Beer

Israel is known for its entrepreneurial spirit, and this is evident in the emerging craft beer scene as well. The craft beer expansion began in earnest around a decade ago, similar to the timing of Israel’s boutique winery boom. You’ll find it on menus all over and there are quite a few breweries or brewery pubs for specific brands in Israel’s major cities. There is a great round-up of craft breweries to visit from Afar Magazine here. Another great place to sample a variety of craft brews from different breweries is BeerBazaar, with locations in the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv & Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem (I’ve been to and enjoyed the Jerusalem branch). Or you can always opt for the old standby Israeli-produced beers that have been quenching thirst for decades: Carlsberg, Goldstar, Maccabee, & Tuborg.

What’s your favorite Israeli dish? Any typical food I’ve omitted? Have you ever traveled with a “to eat” list? Let me know in the Comments!

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Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

March 2, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Israeli cuisine is quite varied, but mostly local, so when a specific restaurants stands out for me, it’s really something special. Living there, I shopped for fresh produce at the shuk (market), bought my pita in stacks of ten several times a week, and mostly cooked at home. And with such fresh ingredients – the fruits and vegetables are at the peak of ripeness – you don’t need to do much to make them taste amazing. Not surprisingly, salads and spreads made from this excellent produce constitute a good part of the Israeli diet. And in the case of most of the local specialties that comprise my ‘foodie bucket list’ when I visit these days, these typical foods are available nearly everywhere, and every neighborhood has its best local place to consume them. If asked, any two Israelis are likely to argue over the best falafel spot down the street or which restaurant serves up the best shakshuka.

So in an environment like this, how did I possibly compose a list of “best” places to eat and drink across the country?

There are a small number of traditional and experimental foods and drinks that have made such an impression on me that I can still recall my meal in great detail. Some single flavor combination that is so spot-on or well-balanced. Or a unique ambiance that enhances great food and drink all the more. Or a basic establishment that serves such standout dishes that I want to come back for a return visit – and I have!

These are my best bites and sips. Israeli restaurants, cafes, and bars that I would come back to again and again (and probably will on my next visit):

Acre/Akko

Uri Buri

The meal I savored here still counts as one of the most epic tasting menus I’ve ever consumed. The philosophy is that they’ll keep bringing out specialty dishes of the house until you’ve decided that you’ve had enough for one night. Not a budget endeavor, but completely worth it for the cozy atmosphere in an old stone building and the whimsical and enticing dishes that exit the kitchen one after another. It was one of the first dishes that were served – a salmon sashimi with wasabi gelato – that really set the tone for me that I would be in for a special evening delighting my foodie tastebuds. While Uri Buri is a fish restaurant, it is not kosher (so will serve up shellfish), although there is also the option to dine a la carte if that’s a concern. And if you’re lucky, you’ll get a view of Uri Buri himself in the kitchen and greeting diners. He looks a bit like Santa Claus with a long white beard and lots of jolly laughter, so you’ll know it’s him if you see him. Only such joy could produce food this good.

Haifa

Fattoush

On the main street in Haifa that leads to the Baha’i Temple is this wonderland of Middle Eastern culinary specialties, with enough options to satisfy anyone’s appetite. There are ample vegetarian dishes and more meat dishes than you can imagine. Plus, you can’t beat eating inside the quaint courtyard on a beautiful day. Make sure to leave room for dessert and get their tahini ice cream – a frozen delight based on the sesame spread – something you’re not likely to be able to enjoy anywhere else.

Jerusalem

Gatsby Cocktail Room

I’ve had my fair share of cocktails during my time living in and visiting Israel, however the one that stands out in my mind I enjoyed at Gatsby. It’s a speakeasy on par with any I’ve been to in the world, bringing creativity and whimsy to its well-balanced creations. Being a speakeasy of course, it’s a bit tricky to find. To the right of the entrance to the Aroma Cafe is an unmarked door. Entering will bring you to a room where someone will be there to swing the bookcase open (!!) and let you inside. I was able to get in right when they opened on a Saturday after Shabbat ended, but in general reservations are recommended.

Machane Yehuda Market

This market has been around Jerusalem for around a century, with countless vendor stalls selling all of the local specialties you could dream of, from bourekas to halva to baklava. It’s a great spot to pick up goodies for a picnic meal, or food for over the Sabbath from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown, when many restaurants in Jerusalem are closed. Relatively recently, the market after hours has also become a destination, especially for the younger Jerusalemites. There are a ton of sit-down restaurants of local and global cuisine that make this area a nightlife hub once the daytime vendors have closed shop for the evening. If you’ve never been, I’d check out the market both during the day and again in the evening to fully appreciate all it has to offer.

Marzipan Bakery

A spot not far from Machane Yehuda Market (see above), no visit to Israel is complete without rugelach, a chocolately rolled mini-pastry, as prepared here. Bold words, but I absolutely mean it and am not alone – many foreigners make Marzipan their final travel stop before heading to the airport so they can take fresh rugelach home for loved ones. You’ll want to be sure to go when you’re in Jerusalem, too.

Tmol Shilshom

I’ve been coming to this bookstore/cafe for nearly two decades. And it’s just as charming as it was on the day I first wandered down an alleyway off Jerusalem’s touristy downtown pedestrian area and entered its cozy interior. Its shakshuka has been named one of the 10 best breakfasts in the world by Lonely Planet and its evening fare consists of the typical light, yet filling dishes you’d find at a cafe. Even as a teenager, I appreciated this oasis in the middle of an otherwise chaotic part of town, especially in the evenings. And sitting in plush chairs among the bookshelves just has a way of making you feel at home.

Tel Aviv/Jaffa

Hummus Habayit

In a teeny outpost on Allenby Street sits this self-proclaimed ‘House of Hummus’ serving up delicious plates of hummus with some of the friendliest service you’ll find in all of Israel. Here, the hummus is the main event, to be slowly enjoyed by ripping off small chunks of pita and swirling it through the plate of hummus. It’s a relaxing ritual, and you’ll want to eat slowly and savor all your bites at this spot that claims to be No. 2 in all of Israel. Number 1 according to the chef? Your first hummus ever. After that, this is the spot to go.

The Old Man and the Sea

Named after the Ernest Hemingway novel of the same name, this restaurant has been around Tel Aviv for a while and boasts multiple branches, although the one in the port city of Old Jaffa has the best view. Come with a group of friends if you can, as your table will be covered with salads and spreads to devour, and that’s even before your fish arrives. The food is great, the atmosphere makes it.

Sabich Frishman

Okay, so sabich may be my new Israeli food obsession. This pita stuffed with fried eggplant, hard-boiled egg, and a range of vegetables and condiments has all the ingredients and balance that for me make a perfect bite. And the version you’ll get at Sabich Frishman is considered by many to be the best in Tel Aviv, possibly in all of Israel. There is likely to be a line snaking out the door at most hours as locals line up. I like mine with cheese, all the vegetables and condiments, and a bit of spicy sauce, but you can just let them know when they efficiently take your order at the front.

Have you been to any of these spots? Any place I should have included that’s not listed? Any other questions about eating out in Israel? Let me know in the Comments!

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Travel Savvy Gal

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