How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

January 19, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

If you’re like me and love going out to a restaurant with a group of adventurous friends, because it means you get to sample even more different dishes, the thought of traveling solo may give you pause. How will you consume enough meals to taste all of the local dishes? What if there are multiple dishes you’d like to sample, but you’re just not hungry enough to order (and eat) them all?

As someone who both loves to eat and savors my time traveling solo, this issue has come up for me time and again. Over the last two decades or so, I have definitely honed what types of food I seek out when I’m on my own on the road, to maximize the number of different bites and how much local cuisine I get to experience. And fortunately, as solo travel has become more commonplace, I don’t get nearly the amount of looks or raised eyebrows as I used to when asking for a “table for one.”

How to Dine Solo, Your Own Way

“Oh no,” you’re thinking, “I just don’t feel comfortable eating at a restaurant by myself.” Don’t worry, that’s okay! Several of the options below involve street food or eating-on-the-go. And even at a proper restaurant, a lot of times there is a bar where you can sit and order food and socialize, or possibly a communal table where you may encounter others traveling solo or other friendly diners.

For those of you ready to dine solo at a restaurant for the first time, it can look like whatever you’re comfortable with. I’ve seen people reading a newspaper or a book as they eat alone, which for many eliminates what would otherwise be a socially awkward situation. Others spend it on their smart phone, reading, planning, or staying in touch with friends. Some solo diners sit back and quietly take in their surroundings. And others will just keep a deep focus on the food, slowly savoring each bite.

Personally, I tend to either be introspective, reflecting on my day or strategizing for the day ahead, or will go into people-watching mode. I’ll sit and quietly observe the diners around me inside the restaurant, pretending I am at an outdoor table at a cafe watching the passers-by. Occasionally, I’ll read – usually a long-form newspaper article or an article to learn more about a tourist attraction I already visited. And when the food comes, I do my best to channel my focus on truly enjoying the flavors as I eat. Do what works best for you!

Foods to Seek Out

To eat well during solo travel, my basic strategy is to cobble together a bunch of different bites on my own, by sampling the offerings of different street food vendors or enjoying small plates of food at a sit-down restaurant – in whatever combination feels right on a particular trip. Here’s what to look for:

Appetizers

I mention a lot of specific types of cuisine below, but in fact, any restaurant can be turned into your own customized version of small plates by simply ordering 2-3 starters or sides instead of a main dish. Just ask before you order, and most places will be happy to accommodate you. It can also be helpful to specify if you want your dishes to arrive all at once, or to be brought out one at a time.

Bakeries

Bakeries and pastry shops (or bakery sections in supermarkets) can offer a quick bite in the morning to leave room for a larger lunch. You can also get a taste of local life by sampling the baked good of choice, whether sweet or savory. Or get a bunch of smaller items to sample for lunch, as nibbles throughout the day, or snacks to consume while out hiking.

Breakfast or Brunch

You may not have thought of it this way before, but many breakfast or brunch options can really be several different types of food all on a single plate together: eggs, potatoes, vegetables, and a sauce. Even if breakfast is included with my accommodation, I will still sometimes go out somewhere for a more authentic first meal of the day, and a lot of countries have very local breakfast options that you won’t see anywhere else (check out this post on Singaporean breakfast for the details on one of my favorites). And many breakfasts can be ordered for take away if you don’t feel like dining alone.

Buffets

In general I’m not a huge buffet person, but when I’m on the road for a limited time, it can often be the most effective way to sample many different dishes of the local cuisine. Often hotels or hotel restaurants will serve food buffet-style, and you typically don’t need to be a guest at the hotel to partake. Do be sure to check ahead of time when buffet meals will be available, as in certain locales it will only be offered on 1 night each week (or only specifically feature local cuisine on a single night).

Happy Hour

Taking place usually over a few hours in the afternoon, happy hour often includes special deals on small portions of food and allows you to sit at the bar if you feel like socializing. Italy has especially good happy hour options, from small bites or buffet spreads at aperitivo to traditional tapas in Venice known as cicchetti. Wherever you’ll be traveling solo likely has some similar local happy hour specials. Ask at your hostel or hotel, or gather some intel from locals who can point you in the right direction.

Indian restaurants

In my experience, there are a fair number of Indian restaurants all over the world that have lunch buffets or set menus available. When I am traveling solo and seeking out Indian food, I will also peruse a menu in advance to see if there is thali available, another option which is a built-in way to try lots of dishes. A thali is basically like a sampler platter and will include bread, rice, and a mix of other curries and dishes, all for a reasonable price. Usually a vegetarian and meat thali option will both be offered.

Set Menus

You’ll see a set menu option more often for lunch, with a choice of a few dishes for each course, sometimes including a beverage and/or dessert. Set menus offer a good value on price as well. One of my favorite places to take advantage of a set menu is in Liechtenstein, which otherwise can be a pricey place to dine out. Keep your eyes open starting in the late morning when these specials begin to be advertised, and find a spot that strikes your fancy or fits your budget.

Spanish restaurants

I have one word for you: tapas! These small plates have become trendy in a lot of places outside of Spain, so in many countries you’ll be able to find a Spanish restaurant where the dishes come in small enough portions that you can pick out a few different ones and still have a reasonably sized meal for one. Of course this works in Spain as well, and is especially fun at a busy market stall. Plus, many tapas places I’ve visited – both in Spain and elsewhere – have a bar where you can sit and order dishes, which can be a more social experience for solo travellers.

Street Food

There are many cities renowned for their street food offerings, but even for most others, you can find delicious and inexpensive bites on the go. Street food lets you eat with your other senses first – hearing the sizzle of a piece of meat on a grill, smelling enticing aromas waft toward you, or seeing where the locals queue up for the best bites. I’ve had some of my best street food experiences in Asia (Bangkok & Chiang Mai in Thailand have possibly been my favorite spots – for being able to get small bites from a lot of different vendors). But if you keep your eyes open you’ll see street vendors in most cities you visit, and there are also a lot of places where Food Trucks are trendy and ever-present with many types of cuisines represented. Go ahead and sample whatever catches your eye. Or tempts one of your other senses.

Tasting Menus

On the opposite end of the budget spectrum, you can also get a fair bit of food variety on the high-end of dining, especially when there is a tasting or degustation menu available. And at several of these more fancy establishments, you’ll even have the option to sit at the bar or communal table, which can be a less intimidating experience for the solo diner. This can be true even at Michelin-starred places, like the satisfying tasting menu I recently enjoyed at Stockholm’s Ekstedt (sitting at a communal table where I met and chatted during the whole meal with another solo traveller!).

Or the very reasonably priced tasting menus I enjoyed on my own at Restaurant Bieberbau in Berlin and several restaurants around Malta.

Turkish (or Middle Eastern) restaurants

This is another cuisine that naturally lends itself to having a lot of small dishes – called mezze – cobbled together to form a meal. Think grilled meats, falafel balls, hummus, babaganoush, and tabbouli in small portions that together can form a satisfying single meal with a whole lot of variety. Middle Eastern cuisines can also be well-suited to vegetarians, as many of the mezze are vegetable- or legume-based.

Vegetarian restaurants

Despite not having meat on the menu, vegetarian and vegan restaurants can offer some of the best variety of bites on a single plate. I usually encounter a mix of starches, proteins, and vegetables that can be mixed and matched for a single dish. Sometimes there are even small plates available. And although I’m not a vegetarian, some of my most recent memorable bites dining solo have been at vegetarian establishments.

Of course, there is no one right way to eat well while traveling solo. This list is really a starting point for you to venture out and figure out what types of cuisine and dining formats feel comfortable for you, and help you to maximize your time alone on the road. And of course, as you become a more and more seasoned solo traveler, use this list as inspiration for that food or restaurant to try next!

Do you notice yourself gravitating toward certain foods when you travel solo? What things have you found most helpful to keep in mind for eating well when you travel on your own? Any other advice or cuisines to add to the list? Share your tips below!

Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

July 12, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

The only way to know good gelato is by trying lots of it and getting your taste buds accustomed to the nuances of this frozen delight – and don’t worry, I did a lot of “research” about where to locate the best gelato in Italy during the three years I lived there. And of course, on my recent return visit.

Let’s just say that I’ve had A LOT of gelato.

And as you enjoy as much gelato as I have, it becomes easier and easier with time to pick out the best spots.

I’ve organized my recommendations by city, presented alphabetically, but you’ll notice that I didn’t include every town I’ve visited or even every gelateria I’ve liked. Only the gelato spots that I found served a really superlative product made this round-up.

The best gelato in Italy can be found in tourist centers as often as off-the-beaten-path spots, but there is a taste that gives you pause and delights with intense flavor and smoothness at all of the locations I’ve listed.

So go ahead, find excellent gelato and treat yourself daily – just like the Italians do!

More About Gelato in Italy

The Basics.

Gelato comes from the Italian word for frozen, but let’s be clear, gelato is not just “Italian ice cream.” It is a very discerning product made with a different process and a different philosophy, which is what makes the end result so memorable.

Proper gelato is served a bit warmer than traditional ice cream, so it is less likely to make your teeth hurt or get an ice cream headache, but this higher temperature is also one of the key parts that contributes to the flavor and texture that makes gelato so delicious – more on both below.

There’s a lot you can tell on sight as well. Many of the places with the best gelato will keep it inside opaque metal canisters, and really good gelato does not stay in those intricate mounds that many of the tourist spots will feature.

And where do you find your gelato in Italy? At a gelateria, of course!

Flavor.

Gelato is also unique because it aims to capture seasonal ingredients at peak freshness.

So while your favorite flavor may not be available depending on when you’re in Italy, gelato flavors you may not like in other places are likely to be exceptional when you go. The two flavors that are universally delicious when you’re in Italy are some of the most local – pistachio (which comes from Sicily) and hazelnut, or nocciola (from the northern Piedmont region).

The intensity of gelato is also related to the churning process, which means less air inside compared to ice cream, leading to bolder, more concentrated flavors. And that warmer serving temperature also has that flavor intensifying effect.

Texture.

Gelato is churned differently from ice cream too, going at a slower pace that results in less air getting mixed in and a denser product. The combination of its composition and warmer temperature leads to the elasticity that gives you that perfectly smooth texture as you savor each concentrated bite.

Even if the flavors are wonderful, anything less than a creamy texture will take away from the gelato experience.

It’s good for you!

No, really! Okay, maybe not quite, but you may be surprised with the density and concentrated flavors of gelato that it actually has fewer calories than ice cream. Gelato tends to use more milk than cream and does not involve egg yolks like many ice creams, so there is also less fat involved.

So go ahead, indulge.

Gelato Etiquette.

Honestly, this is probably not much different than your ice cream experience in other countries. It’s completely acceptable to ask for a taste of a few flavors before you decide what to buy, even if there’s a huge line building up behind you.

The size of your gelato will determine how many different flavors you can get. Typically this is well-signed and you’ll see different size cups displayed at the top of the counter, with both the price and number of gusti, or flavors, indicated. In general, a “small” allows you to pick 2 gusti and you’ll need to get at least a “medium” sized one to enjoy 3 different ones.

Also, be ready to state whether you’ll be having your gelato in a cup (coppetta) or cone (cono).

Every gelateria does things its own way, so even if you get a cup, you may be lucky enough to get a mini cone or wafer stuck on top:

Fortunately for all of us, gelaterie deal in volume, so this is a relatively inexpensive snack that won’t break your budget. An afternoon gelato is part of the daily ritual for many Italians, and it can easily be part of yours when you visit.

Like coffee in Italy, you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised about how cheap it is compared to ice cream at home. In most places it costs only €2.50-3 for a small-sized gelato, often going up in increments of just 50 centesimi, or cents – half a Euro.

TIP! Buying gelato is a great time to spend some of the pile of Euro coins you’ve likely accumulated during your visit!

The Best Gelato in Italy – by City

So, let’s get down to it, where do you go for the best spots that aren’t just catering to tourist whims but producing authentic, seasonal, bold, and smooth gelato?

Bergamo

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

I don’t usually find my favorite gelateria right on the central square, but this spot on the Piazza Vecchia of Bergamo’s elevated upper city delivers. Fruit flavors are super intense with just the right balance to not be too tart or sweet, and the creamy flavors are perfectly smooth. Fancier places will dot your stroll from the funicular or city gate, but it’s worth waiting until you get here to order an afternoon gelato.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Bergamo

Bologna

Cremeria Funivia

I didn’t fall in love with Bologna my first trip, but this was one of the outstanding places that helped change my mind on a return visit. Yes, the gelato really is that delicious. Like many of the spots on this list, they offer both traditional and more inventive flavors, but everything really is outstanding and hits that incredible balance of flavor and texture.

Como

Gelateria Lariana

There are many similar-looking gelato shops along the shore of Lake Como, but this is the only one I return to again and again. Despite its touristy location, the many locals who also stop in tell you that this is just delicious gelato. It is easy to spot with the many people hanging around or stopping to sit outside as they enjoy what I imagine for many is part of their daily routine.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como

Florence

Gelateria Carraia

Gelato is all about the freshness of the ingredients, and this gelateria calls itself artisanal for a reason. Lots of top gelato lists include this spot as the best in Florence, and I definitely agree. Stroll to the far side of the Arno River from the historical center and don’t be dissuaded by the line you’re likely to encounter. This gelato – especially any one of their signature flavors – is worth the wait!

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence

Mantua

Gelateria Loggetta

You’ll see the signs proclaiming the many accolades this gelateria has received, and one taste will have you convinced as well that the awards are well-deserved. It is just so spot on when it comes to flavors and textures. And you’ll have the occasional experimental flavor thrown in with classics done very well.

Milan

Ciacco

There are now a couple of Milan locations of this spot (plus ones in Bergamo and Parma), but after 3 years of living in Milan, I had to put my favorite Milano gelateria in the Milan section, of course. You won’t have to venture far to locate the main Milan outpost just a short stroll from the main Cathedral, Milan’s Duomo. The standards are done exceptionally well, with bold pops of flavor and silky smooth texture you’ll want to savor. There are usually a few seasonal creative flavors to enjoy as well. Possibly my all-time favorite flavor was a savory squash one I enjoyed my last autumn living there:

Il Massimo del Gelato

Are you a chocolate lover? Then this is your gelato heaven. Named the ultimate or maximum (massimo) of gelato, the flavors do not disappoint. In addition to the fruit and nut flavors you’d expect, there are also usually close to a dozen of variations just of chocolate, from different types of chocolate, to mixtures involving orange or different liqueurs. And it’s even better than you’re imagining right now!

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Rome

Gelateria Dei Gracchi

Rome has no shortage of gelato places, so when one is doing well enough to expand to multiple locations, you know it’s delicious. There are several flavors that you won’t find at most spots, but my hands-down favorite is the crema di pinoli, the cream of pine nuts which is perfectly flavored and velvety to devour. Get in line with the local families taking their children after school and find out why it’s their go-to spot in Rome, too.

Fatamorgana Gelato

Many of the gelato flavors you’ll find at Fatamorgana are inventive, from savory flavors to spices and herbs being mixed with your more typical chocolate or fruit base. Sure, there are the more usual flavors here, but many Fatamorgana branches are frequented by locals looking for something that is creative without sacrificing what makes gelato so delicious. It’s not the only creative gelateria I’ve sampled in Rome, but it’s the only one that also creates that perfect gelato texture with its more unusual ingredients.

San Gimignano

Gelateria Dondoli

There are two very popular gelato spots on the same piazza in San Gimignano – and both are likely to have lines out the door! Don’t worry though, Dondoli is the one you want. The queue moves fast and you will be treated to some incredibly creative, strong flavors and a silky smooth texture regardless of the flavor you choose. This Gelateria is known for its signature flavors, like the Crema di Santa Fina (with saffron cream and pine nuts) and Champelmo (pink grapefruit and sparkling wine). The view as you enjoy your gelato is pretty great, too:

Venice

Gelatoteca Suso

Venice is probably my least favorite major Italian city for gelato, but the best of all the ones I’ve tried is definitely this spot. The flavors are strong and each bite is smooth to savor, even though visually it looks less smooth than the other place I’ve featured. I also love it for serving gelato with one of its branded wafers, even when you get gelato in a cup.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice

READ MORE: Venice Cheat Sheet

Verona

Gelateria Savoia

Keeping locals happy in Verona since 1939, this historical gelateria continues to be the go-to spot for locals and with good reason. It is central and in a high-end location, giving just a touch of luxury, and has a wide list of flavors and other sweet treats to keep everyone satisfied.

Gelato may be more complex than you expected, but the good news is that great gelato comes down to two key things – flavor and texture. And given the frequent gelato consumption by Italians, all it takes is a conversation with any locals to get directed to the best gelateria nearby. As good as Italian food is, it’s always worth saving just a little bit of room for this afternoon (or evening) snack.

Did your favorite gelato in Italy make this list? What other gelato spots do you recommend for my next visit? Is there anything else you look for in a great gelato? I’m always looking to expand my gelato horizons =)

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Where to Eat: Best Bites (and Sips) in Florence

September 15, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 6 comments

If you ask most Italians which Italian regions have the best cuisine, they’ll typically tell you Emilia-Romagna (where Bologna, Parma, and Modena lie) and Tuscany, the region of Florence. Tuscan cuisine, involves grilled meat and hearty dishes that leave you satiated.

There is no shortage of excellent spots to eat in Florence, here are the top spots that I recommend:

Breakfast

Depending on what area of the city you’re staying in, finding a sit-down restaurant for breakfast might be tough. I’d recommend either booking accommodations somewhere that includes breakfast or finding the local “bar” (coffee place) where you can grab a pastry and cappuccino at the counter (see more about typical Italian breakfast here).

If you do go out for breakfast, watch out for the coperto (cover charge) that can be exorbitant if you sit down at a table at a restaurant in the touristy parts of town, especially near Piazza della Signoria. The one place I can recommend is in Piazza Duomo, which in general seems to have more reasonably priced options:

Scudieri

On the corner of Piazza Duomo, I’ve popped in here for a coffee, pastry, and one of the mini breakfast sandwiches. It’s a bit pricey, but a convenient location if you are looking to grab a quick bite early in the morning before visiting the Duomo.

Lunch/More Casual Spots

I’ve listed the more casual eateries or those with a special lunch menu in this section, although they are all also open for dinner if you’re looking for more casual dinner options. These are all wonderful options for refueling in the middle of a day of taking in the sights around Florence:

All’Antico Vinaio

(Sorry this blurb is so long, but trust me, this place is worth it!) All’Antico Vinaio is actually two places, one right across from another, and quite close to Piazza della Signoria (where the Palazzo Vecchio and Uffizi Gallery are located). Usually when I go, one side of the street has a very long line, and there is a shorter line for the location on the even-numbered side of the street for the “osteria.” Don’t worry, the food is the same at both, and you’ll see bread and produce being hand-walked across the street by the staff. It’s best to go early or late, and to visit on a weekday, to avoid when can sometimes be quite long lines.

So what makes this by far the best panino (singular of panini) I’ve had in my 3 years living in Italy? First, the bread. It is like a thick foccacia, with a thin crust on the outside and a soft inside that can stand up to the sandwich while still absorbing its delicious flavors. Second, the quality of the meat, cheese, vegetables, and spreads. Everything is fresh and rich with flavor, like good Italian ingredients should be. There are a number of different panino flavor combinations on the wall, or you can ask the staff – all of whom seem to be at least conversational in English – for their favorite flavor combinations with the meat of your choice and they will make you a delectable panino! My favorite toppings are the porcini mushroom and black truffle spreads.

A panino here is quite large, so some opt to share, although I always get my own despite never actually managing to finish one. You can also order house wine by the glass, which is self-serve. Can you tell this is my favorite lunch spot in Florence? 😉

Il Bufalo Trippone

For when the line at All’Antico Vinaio is a bit too long for how hungry you are – or you want to beat the crowds for another excellent panino – the nearby Il Bufalo Trippone is a gem. It is tiny and there are not many spots to sit inside, but the quality of the sandwich and of the wine available by the glass in particular, are excellent. The meat selection is more limited than other spots, only including various pig and wild board salami and prosciutto, but even the vegetarian concoction recommended by the friendly owner was delectable.

TIP! Il Bufalo Trippone is also a shop with wines and food products available at a great price, so this is also a good destination to pick up culinary souvenirs.

L’Antico Noe’

This is really two sister places next to each other, one is a paninoteca and the other is a sit-down place, both located under a quaint stone archway between two streets. I have only been to the trattoria side, which is lively during lunch and has really good plates of typical Tuscan dishes and a few that are more interesting flavor combinations. If you’re looking for a comforting sit-down meal a bit off the beaten path, this is your spot.

Mercato Centrale

Also listed in my Top Picks post as one of the Off the Beaten Path spots places to check out even if you’re not planning to have a meal there, the central market is also a great casual spot for lunch (or dinner). There is an array of different food stalls and communal seating, so you can order from any place you and your fellow travelers would like, and then enjoy your food sitting together. It’s also a good place to pick up food-based souvenirs, especially if there is some specific culinary product you enjoyed as part of your meal.

Osteria dei Centropoveri

I included this osteria as a lunch option because of their fabulous set menu for 10 Euros, which includes a pasta course (primo), a fish/meat course (secondo), filtered water and ¼ liter of white or red house wine. Of course, you could have dinner here as well. At lunch on a recent weekday, the crowd was about half local and half Italian, a respectable ratio for dining in central Florence. Portions are large and tasty, and even though it was not part of the set lunch, I loved the budino di castagne dessert, a chestnut-flavored crème caramel with amaretto crunch on top. Dessert and espresso are minimal add-ons – my total bill with both was a mere 14 Euro.

Procacci

Procacci has been around since when Italy still had a king – in fact it was an officially approved royal supplier – and still occupies its historical shop in one of the fancier parts of town. Despite exuding old-time Florentine charm, it is a welcoming place to pop in for its famous truffle spread sandwiches and a glass of wine mid-day. Both will give you pause, they are that good. And the panini are pretty small, so it’s easy to sample a few different flavor combinations.

TIP! This also serves as a gourmet shop where you can buy food products to take home, and Procacci is the only place I’ve found in Florence where you can do a (free!) tasting of different balsamic vinegars. If you won’t make it to where they originate in Modena, Italy, definitely do the tasting here!

Gelato

Yes, if you are in Italy, gelato is its own food group. There are a lot of decent tourist spots to get a gelato, but if you want excellent gelato it is well worth the trek two bridges down from the Ponte Vecchio to the far side of the river for:

Gelateria La Carraia

Great gelato is about both texture and flavor, and the gelato at La Carraia nails both. Flavors are intensified versions of their main ingredients, and the gelato is smooth and rich. Many people name this gelateria not only as their favorite in Florence, but in all of Italy. And a short stroll back to the closest bridge offers and excellent spot to enjoy your gelato and great views of the city.

If you’re sticking more to the central tourist area, my second favorite gelateria in Florence is:

La Strega Nocciola

When you cross the Ponte Vecchio from the side of Florence with the main tourist sites, hang a left on the first street on the other side and you’ll find La Strega Nocciola partway up the street on the right. There are a couple of other locations that are convenient, including one by the Duomo. I love their unique selections (lavender is my favorite) as well as the intensity of each flavor, especially the nocciola – the hazelnut flavor also in the name of the gelateria.

Aperitivo

First, gelato gets its own section, and now aperitivo?? If you don’t know what I mean when I say aperitivo, take a moment to check out my post here about why aperitivo is in integral part of any day, especially one spent touring around Italy. When dinner is still a couple of hours away and you want to grab a spritz with a view, there are a lot of spots (some with really fabulous views) to frequent, although a couple stand out from the rest:

Move On: Italian Pub & Record Store

This is an actual record shop if you go upstairs. Or just come to sit outside for aperitivo, with a view of the Duomo from its location close to the Baptistery. In addition to the usual aperitivo cocktails, there is also a decent selection of artisanal Italian beer, including a variety on tap. And if you’re lucky, the night you’re there they’ll make their own potato chips in-house to accompany your aperitivo drink

La Terraza @ The Continentale Hotel

On the opposite end of the spectrum is the very lovely La Terraaza – the terrace, in Italian – that overlooks the Arno River and a lovely view of the city. It is on the roof of the Continentale Hotel, and can be accessed through the hotel lobby by taking the elevator to the 6^th floor. Cocktails are pricey at 19 Euros each, but the drinks come with a plate of assorted small bites and the view and vibe is worth it.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

Dinner

There are many great meals to be had in Florence, here are the places I return to again and again:

Il Latini

Hands down my favorite restaurant in Florence, the food seems to taste better with each visit. This is one of the go-to places for the famous Florentine steak, bistecca alla fiorentina. It is a thick cut of meat seared on the outside and near-raw inside. They will not ask you how you like your meat cooked because there is only one way to prepare it correctly. The most enjoyable meals I’ve had here have been getting their set menu – a mix of house antipasti (get the liver crostini!), pasta primi (which you can opt out of if you’re not super hungry), and the bistecca with side dishes. My favorite sides are the fagioli all’ucceletto (beans with tomato) and the sauteed greens, although of course the roast potatoes are delicious too and always go well with the meat. Alright, just get all 3 side dishes. Traditional dessert that usually comes with the set menu is cantuccini with Vin Santo. In fact, if you check out my list of the Top 6 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Florence, the best versions of most of those typical foods I’ve consumed have been at Il Latini, also including the ribollita pictured above. If you have only one dinner in Florence, this should be it!

TIP! Make a reservation at least 1 day in advance. Il Latini has a 7:30pm and 9/9:30pm seating. The tourist rush is usually for the earlier time, so I recommend reserving for the later one, and then show up any time from 8:45/9pm on as tables begin to free up around then.

Trattoria Sostanza

Another location for typical Tuscan cuisine, including the bistecca alla fiorentina, although this trattoria has specialties you can’t get anywhere else. It is most well known for the butter chicken, which is the moistest chicken breast I’ve ever eaten, with the butter bubbling up and crusting the top even as it’s served still in the hot pan. The artichoke tart is also popular, although it is a less hearty dish with less texture. The homemade meringue cake with wild berries is a perfect dessert bite if I’ve ever had one – the crunchy meringue, chocolate, smooth cream, and berries are in perfect proportion. A slice of this is not to be shared 😉

TIP! Make a reservation several days in advance, for the 7:30pm or 9pm seating. Again, the later reservation is the less touristy one. Also note, tables are communal.

Trattoria ZaZa

Although filled with tourists, this is also a spot frequented by locals and fortunately has a large seating capacity to match. Reservations for dinner are recommended, although going around 9pm on a weeknight, two of us were seated only waiting about five minutes. The menu is vast, although I especially enjoyed the selections off the truffle menu, available seasonally starting in early autumn. ZaZa is also close to the Mercato Centrale (see the Lunch section above).

What were your most memorable meals in Florence? And as you can see, in Florence I tend to stick to the places with down-home traditional Tuscan cooking. How do you pick which restaurants to check out when you travel?

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Top 6 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Florence

September 13, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Tuscan food is world-renowned for its flavors and comfort, and include things that were considered peasant food, with simple, bold flavors and a richness that make this many people’s favorite regional cuisine in Italy. While visiting Florence (which is located in the region of Tuscany), here are my top items to seek out to explore the dishes local to the area:

Ribollita.

This is a bean soup, thickened with bread, and made with a hodgepodge of vegetables (a peasant’s soup of sorts, with various leftovers in the household traditionally being added in). Although a hallmark of Italian cuisine is having a few ingredients in the correct proportions, ribollita breaks that mold entirely. When Season 4 of MasterChef Australia (TM) filmed some episodes in Italy, one of the challenges was guessing all of the ingredients in a traditional ribollita – and there were 28!

Crostini di fegato.

Slices of bread, which are sometimes toasted, and topped with a chicken liver pate. It is very typical of the area, and available on most restaurant’s menus. I happen to love liver, and try to grab at least one crostino with each of my meals in Florence.

Bistecca alla fiorentina.

Literally meaning “Florentine steak/steak made in the Florentine style” this is a particular type of bone-in, thick cut steak which is seared on the outside and fairly raw on the inside. When prepared well, there will be huge amounts of flavor and very easily-chewed bites of delectable beef. Most restaurants have a minimum order of either 500 grams (~1 pound) or 1 kilo (~2 pounds). A dish that is meant to be shared!

Fagioli all’uccelletto.

This is a typical side dish (contorno) made with cannellini beans that are stewed with tomatoes, garlic, sage, and other spices. While it sounds simple, you have not fully experienced the flavor of cannellini beans until you taste this preparation. There is a hearty richness to it that is deeply satisfying and a great accompaniment to the grilled meats you’ll find on nearly every menu.

Tuscan red wine.

There is a wealth of excellent red wine that comes out of Tuscany, from the house red in a woven basket already on your restaurant table when you sit, to the famed varietals of Chianti, Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino . . . the list goes on. Sample some with your meals and find your favorite – maybe even take some home as a tasty souvenir of your trip.

Cantuccini con Vin Santo.

You will see this on most dessert menus (the list of dolci) as either cantucci or cantuccini, which are tiny nut biscotti to be dipped into the Vin Santo, a local dessert wine. Vin Santo almost tastes like a tawny port sometimes, although it is not actually fortified as a port would be. The nuttiness and texture of the cantuccini and the strength and flavor of the Vin Santo moistening them are a perfect pairing.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

What’s your favorite Tuscan dish?

Buon appetito!

Lana

How to Make the Most of a Weekend in Barcelona

September 8, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Impressions

Barcelona might have been the first city I visited after moving to Europe when I actively solicited recommendations on Facebook from friends about what to do and where to eat. This was long before Travel Savvy Gal was even a bud of an idea, but even then I took what is still my approach: if I’m going to travel, I like to travel well. To me, this doesn’t mean doing the most expensive or exclusive things necessarily, but instead getting a full and rich experience of a particular place. Ten comments on my post and multiple private messages later, I knew I was wise to inquire. I was inundated with suggestions from well-travelled American friends, friends living around Europe, and even a friend from South Africa. So why is Barcelona such a beloved (and well-visited) city across continents?

Thinking back on my weekend exploring Barcelona, I see sunny skies, strolling along lengthy boulevards, the expanse of the Mediterranean, and the vibrancy of the food. I think it’s something about coastal cities that there is this open possibility that comes with every day. A feeling that makes me smile when I think of Barcelona.

I’m not sure if it was because my one and only visit to Barcelona was in springtime, or because it was my first time visiting Spain, but just entering the city put a lightness in my step. The weather was warm but not hot, and the bustle of people made me feel caught up in the bright colors and vivacity of the city. I had such a wonderful time exploring, and know you will, too!

Things to Do

There is a ton to take in in Barcelona, but you can really have a leisurely weekend and see quite a lot. Or squeeze most things in with a more ambitious schedule or by spending an extra day. Here are my top picks for what to do during your visit:

Around Town

Cathedral

A stunning Gothic cathedral very centrally located, this is one of the spots to definitely explore. Check out the website linked above for the various visiting house – sometimes it’s free to enter, other times there is a donation required.

Old Jewish Quarter & Medieval Synagogue
Not far from the Cathedral, you can explore the old streets and also visit the medieval synagogue, one of the oldest in Europe. It is small and is more like seeing an archaeological excavation than seeing a modern house of worship, so a great window into Barcelona’s past.

Museo Picasso

I really enjoyed this museum, the only one dedicated to Picasso’s works during his lifetime. He first moved to Barcelona as a teenager with his family, and spent later years there as well.

La Rambla

This is a street, which is not your typical tourist recommendation, however this came up with almost everyone who recommended Barcelona sights to me. It is a large sprawling boulevard that connects the Plaça de Catalunya in the center to the waterfront, is a popular spot for strolling, and has many things to see along the way:

(I've never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before) — (I’ve never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before)

La Boqueria market. See the colorful produce on offer in Barcelona, and the market is also a great spot to stop for a drink or a meal (see “Best Bites” section below).

Plaça Reial. This large plaza adorned with palm trees reminds me of many others and does not seem distinct to Barcelona, but has a lively scene or restaurants along its perimeter and is worth a quick peek as you stroll down La Rambla.

Mirador de Colom. Right before you get to the waterfront, there is a tower of Christopher Columbus dominating the center of a roundabout. Snap a few pictures before heading to the water’s edge.

Waterfront. A pedestrian walkway makes the stroll along Barcelona’s waterfront as comforting as any boardwalk you enjoyed strolling growing up.

Off the Beaten Path

Casa Battlo

Gaudi, a Spanish architect who designed many buildings around Barcelona, may be the most famous thing about Barcelona. Casa Battlo is one of the houses he designed, a bit off the beaten path, but not too far from the city center and with a ton of rooms open to the public across many levels, including an audioguide.

La Sagrada Familia

Although still currently unfinished, this Catholic church designed by Gaudi is possibly his most iconic creation in the city. It is a long walk or short metro ride from the center, and is probably the most popular attraction in Barcelona. See the “Amazing Views” section below for more on accessing the view from the top.

TIP! Also off the beaten path are other Gaudi creations, including Casa Milà and Park Güell, the latter also providing an elevated view of the city.

Magic Fountain of Montjuïc

This light and fountain show only runs on Thursday-Saturday nights (Wednesday-Sunday in summer), so if you are spending the weekend in Barcelona it’s a perfect time to check out the fountain choreography and changing lights set to musical medleys.

Amazing views

Towers of La Sagrada Familia

There is a lift that brings you up to the towers of the church for a high vantage point, and is worth organizing in advance as entrance capacity is more restricted than the church itself. More details are linked above.

Parc del Mirador del Poble Sec

This and other nearby gardens in the Poble Sec neighborhood of Barcelona offer wide views of the city and waterfront, and are a refreshing break as the green spaces are frequented more typically by locals than tourists.

Best Bites

Barcelona, like many parts of Spain, is all about the tapas (small plates) and the wine. This approach to eating is perfectly suited to me because I love getting to try lots of different dishes and finding a tasty accompaniment to wash it all down. In Barcelona, I felt like there was a focused approach to each traditional small plate, bringing forth flavor combinations to give you pause, and local wine that pairs so well with the typical cuisine. And I was fortunate enough to travel with a friend who is a kindred spirit when it comes to seeking out delicious meals. The top places I enjoyed during my stay:

Traditional Tapas

Papas bravas, baccala' del dia, y vino — Papas bravas, baccala’ del dia, y vino

El Quim de La Boqueria @ La Boqueria Market

Whether you eat here or not, this market off of the famous La Rambla boulevard is definitely worth a visit. In addition to vendors selling incredibly fresh produce, there are a lot of stands with stools or nearby tables where you can eat a sit-down meal. I squeezed in to the last spot at the bar at El Quim for a tasty Friday lunch, when I was still flying solo.

El Xampanyet

This was one of the places recommended to me by a friend, and became the default choice for Sunday lunch as one of the few places open that day. It was so crowded when we first entered that there was half an instinct to turn right around and find a calmer place, but waiting had its rewards. The service was very friendly and our server made great recommendations, and all of the dishes were well-executed versions of classic tapas. The octopus dish was especially memorable.

Innovative Tapas

La Pepita

I knew in advance that La Pepita does not take reservations (“sin reserva”), but arriving for a late lunch on a Saturday meant being able to be seated immediately. This is not your traditional take on tapas, but the restaurant is true to the principles of putting complementary flavors together on the plate that give you pause to savor each bite. The staff was also very welcoming, making for an excellent overall experience.

Dessert & Drinks

Bubó

It’s been a while now, but this pastry shop won “best chocolate cake in the world” back in 2005, and they are still serving up the special Xabina cake slice, with many layers of texture and flavor. Not far from El Xampanyet (see above) and worth seeking out.

El Born & Gracia neighborhoods

No particular bar stands out to me for after-dinner drinks although I frequented a few, but these two neighborhoods have lively nightlife scenes and are great areas to walk around and then you are free to pop into whatever place strikes your fancy.

On the high end

This was a budget weekend away, so I did not visit any “fancy” restaurants, however I would be remiss to not mention two very world-renowned spots for those who might be interested:

Tickets Bar – If you are not new to the foodie scene, you’ve heard of Ferran Adrià of El Bulli fame. When El Bulli was open, it was considered by many to be the best restaurant in the world, receiving a million reservation requests for just a few thousand dining slots annually for their molecular gastronomy experiments on a plate. The Adrià brothers have Tickets Bar as their latest project, with reservations available online two months in advance.

El Celler de Can Roca – An hour outside of Barcelona, this is a place for the serious foodie. For the past 4 years, it’s claimed the #1 or #2 spot on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Reservations open on the first of every month for 11 months in advance, so plan well ahead if you want to dine here. Considered one of the hardest restaurant reservations to get in the world.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Shopping

I am not usually a person who buys a lot of souvenirs or is that into shopping as I travel, but Barcelona has so many wonderful things at great prices, that I would definitely leave extra room in your bag to take your purchases home. I had not planned ahead, so kept my buying modest: I bought a scarf that I wear often, an earring and bracelet set, as well as two Gaudi-decorated espresso glasses with spoons. But if I had more space, there were also great artist shops all around and really interesting and beautiful clothes for great prices. Next time…

Have you visited Barcelona before? What is your favorite part about visiting Spain? Or what you’re most looking forward to on your first trip? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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How to Order and Eat a Typical Singapore Breakfast

November 8, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Whether you think breakfast is the important meal of the day (or not), it is certainly my favorite. I’d just as soon have breakfast for dinner, or craft an elaborate weekend brunch that is my only meal before dinner rolls around. When I travel, eating breakfast like the locals is one of the ways I immerse myself in the culture of a place.

In general Singaporeans tend to stick to savory breakfasts like other nearby Asian countries, and you’ll see people slurping noodle soups (like pho in Vietnam), eating congee (in the Chinese style), or picking up rice dumplings steamed in banana leaves (like Thailand), and everything in between. But there is only one “Singaporean” breakfast that I came across – basically a delicious variation on the all-familiar eggs, toast, and coffee. Thanks to a bit of jet lag I wasn’t hungry my first few mornings, but once my appetite arrived, I could not get enough of Singaporean breakfast and only hope I’ll be able to somewhat replicate this at home someday.

Here are the essentials you need to know:

1. Coffee (or Tea), aka Kopi (or Teh)

Singaporean coffee lacks the bitterness you may be accustomed to. Why, you ask? Because the beans are roasted in butter! And what was hugely surprising for me is that the brewing method is the same as one I just discovered this past summer for the first time, the Costa Rican chorreador. It’s basically a sock-shaped bit of cloth suspended from a metal ring that can rest on a pitcher. The grounds are placed inside, and then boiling water is poured over top for brewing. The result is a robust coffee flavor that is strong in small doses – in fact, some of the breakfast spots only serve one size of coffee.

As with anywhere, there is also a lot of coffee customization that you can get with each cup. Not only hot vs. iced, but the traditional method for serving, if you ask for just “kopi” you’ll get coffee with condensed milk, as you would in Vietnam. The main other options are “kopi-C” with Carnation milk or “kopi-O,” black coffee. For any of the above you can add the word kosong to the end of your order to request no sugar. For more of the nuances of ordering coffee in Singapore, check out this Serious Eats post.

With coffee this good, I didn’t have tea out once. Although it is definitely available if that is your preferred breakfast beverage, and can be ordered in the same variations you would do for coffee.

2. Kaya toast

I probably don’t need to explain what toast is, but kaya is such an excellent accompaniment. A coconut-based spread, it is typically served on toast with a pat of butter, giving some flavor and sweetness without being overwhelming. Kaya is made with coconut milk, eggs, sugar, and flavored with pandan, a local plant used as an aromatic in many types of Asian cooking. Of course, the flavor is all in the balance of ingredients and texture.

My favorite kaya, hands-down, was the fresh version served at Killiney Kopitiam. If you’re looking to take a jar of kaya home from here, purchase it at the end of your visit as their kaya has no preservatives and will expire within 3-4 weeks. (And if you’re going to Australia after like me, since it contains eggs you probably can’t even bring it with you, sorry.)

3. Soft-boiled eggs There’s actually no need to specify the cook on the eggs that come with a Singaporean breakfast, as they only come one way. Most places I went gave you the eggs still in the shell, and it was up to you to crack them into the bowl. Others gave you a bowl that already had the two “half-boiled” eggs nestled inside.

TIP! I didn’t always do the best job of cracking my eggs and sometimes broke a yolk. The way I saw locals doing it seemed to work well: cracking the wide middle of the egg against the table and cracking it into the bowl (the way you would if the egg was still raw). The typical condiments to make the eggs extra-savory to contrast with the sweet kaya toast (and possibly sweet coffee as well) were ground pepper to sprinkle on top & soy sauce to pour into the bowl. Locals tended to slurp the eggs out of the bowl, while I preferred to break the yolks and enjoy it one small spoonful at a time or with the toast dipped inside.

Where to Find Singaporean Breakfast I sampled Singaporean breakfast at what are probably the top 3 local chains. You’ll be able to find one of these nearby wherever you stay in Singapore:

Killiney Kopitiam Kopitiam means coffee house, and while the coffee was delicious here, I was blown away by the kaya toast at their original location on Killiney Road. And if you’re looking for one last breakfast, there is a Killiney branch in the upstairs 24-hour food court at the airport, although there’s usually a bit of a wait as they still grill the toast fresh for each customer.

Toast Box I waited in line with a lot of young professionals, as it seemed relatively easy to order takeaway breakfast. The one I visited was so busy I even had one of those light-up buzzers to alert me when my toast was ready.

Ya Kun Kaya Toast This was the one spot where my eggs were already in a bowl when they were served, so the least assembly was required. Plus, it was a bit cheaper than Toast Box and included quite a large portion of toast.

What breakfast have you enjoyed so much that you then tried to replicate it at home? Singaporean breakfast will definitely be my next experiment!

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7 Reasons to Visit Israel during Chanukah

October 17, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

I hadn’t planned to go to Israel during Chanukah two years ago, it just sort of happened. I knew that I was targeting the first weekend in December for a short trip somewhere, since it was a holiday weekend in Milan. After asking around a bit, I couldn’t find a single friend who was available to travel – most people already had plans.

Then, on a whim, I checked on flight prices to Israel. I have some family there, and since it’s only a 4-hour direct flight from Milan to Tel Aviv, they had been asking me when I’d visit ever since I moved to Europe.

It seemed like the next option to try, just to see. Then up pops EasyJet, one of the European discount carriers, with a fare of €68. Round trip. For direct flights in both directions.

Obviously I took this as a sign, and I booked my flights immediately. Only after that did I realize that my visit would coincide with the Jewish holiday of Chanukah. I was busy with university coursework during Chanukah the year I lived in Israel, so experiencing the fun of Chanukah there as a tourist for the first time was a welcome surprise.

Here’s why Israel is a great destination to visit during Chanukah:

Lights

Chanukah is known as the ‘Festival of Lights’ and just as you might expect, the whole country is decorated in lights during the 8-day celebration. It is a beautiful time of year for a visit, with everywhere from small towns to big cities lit up at night, like you might expect to see in other places for Christmas. You may also get the chance to progressively light Chanukah candles during the eight nights, a special tradition to share even if you aren’t Jewish.

Potato Pancakes

I promise you, I ate lots of latkes during my Chanukah in Israel. They are traditional potato pancakes that are cooked in oil to commemorate the miracle of the holiday, when a small amount of oil lasted unexpectedly for eight nights.

In Israel, I devoured home-cooked latkes at several friends’ and family’s houses, grabbed a few when out for other meals at regular restaurants serving it as a menu special, and snagged a few more when I went to Chanukah parties around Tel Aviv.

What didn’t I do? Photograph any of the ones I ate during my trip! So here’s a shot of latke-making in the US with my family from last year to give you an idea of what to expect:

Doughnuts

Doughnuts as far as the eye can see is the view that will greet you walking into any bakery during the holiday of Chanukah, and this seemed to be the most-consumed Chanukah food. Doughnuts are known in Hebrew as sufganiyot, and you’ll hear that word quite a lot during a holiday visit. Like latkes, they are a traditional festive food because they are fried in oil, commemorating the Chanukah miracle.

Practically, sufganiyot for Chanukah are an excuse for bakeries to take their sweets to the next level, with all sorts of crazy flavor combinations you won’t see at other times of the year. From elaborate decorations to injectable “shots” of doughnut filling, it is a foodie dream to explore all of the different doughnut varieties available. And the good news is, you have 8 nights to do it!

TIP! Jewish holidays go by the lunar calendar, so during the nights of Chanukah you’ll find doughnuts overflowing out of bakeries across the country. On Day 8 of Chanukah, following the eighth night, it’s back to the regular bakery offerings – so get your fix of specialty doughnuts before then!

Other Winter Specialties

In addition to the two traditional Chanukah foods you’ll find in abundance – latkes and sufganiyot – there are also some other winter culinary specialties that if you visit for Chanukah, you’ll get to enjoy just by being there in the right season for it.

Top of that list for me is the Krem Bo, a dessert that comes individually wrapped, and is only available during the winter time. It consists of a circular graham cookie base, a marshmallow-like meringue mixture piled high on top, with a thin coating of chocolate around everything but the bottom.

Since it’s covered in chocolate, it would melt in Israel’s hot climate at other times of year, so is only available during winter. Most convenience stores and markets will have it in one or more flavors – if you don’t see it, just ask!

Another cold weather favorite is the aromatic, creamy Arabic beverage known as sachlav, which will be served at outdoor stands piping hot just like hot chocolate or mulled wine in other parts of the world. Head to the nearest market – or just keep your eyes open around town – and you’ll definitely find a vendor to sample this specialty.

No Special Religious Restrictions

A lot of Jewish holidays are of great religious importance, and observant Jews will treat it like the Sabbath, not using their phones or computers or even turning on lights around the house. The benefit of Chanukah is that it is a relatively minor holiday not subject to the same restrictions.

So other than the typically one Sabbath that will fall over the 8 days of Chanukah, you can cook latkes with your religious friends and family with abandon, which I especially savored this trip since I have extended family members who are observant who I otherwise would not have been able to spend as much time cooking and celebrating with.

TIP! Even if you won’t be hanging out with any religious Jews when you go, there won’t be any special closures of public buses or businesses for Chanukah to worry about and track along with your itinerary.

Festivities

Israelis are always looking for a sibah l’msibah, a reason to party! While Israelis might be traveling at the end of December to spend New Year’s somewhere special, people are typically around through the rest of the month, and celebrate accordingly.

I spent most of my Chanukah in the coastal city of Tel Aviv. It has a bustling nightlife during a regular week, which goes into overdrive for the Chanukah celebrations. There were multiple parties happening across the city on any given night, from low-key gatherings to late-night clubbing on the beach. Get a special taste of festivities across the country by coming during Chanukah!

Great Travel Deals

Late in the year, there is a jump in prices in late November with increased American tourism around when Thanksgiving falls and again between Christmas and New Year’s Day as many people everywhere have work holidays during that time. The typical timing of Chanukah in early-mid December positions it between those other holidays, and I was delighted to find great deals for travel during that period.

Not only did I get possibly my best flight deal ever traveling to Tel Aviv from Milan for cheaper than a domestic train ticket, but other tourist amenities were also cheaper after I arrived. Spending Friday night in Jerusalem was a no-brainer after finding availability at a decent hotel in the center of town for just $60/night, so my budget went just that extra bit farther and I was able to see more throughout the entire trip.

What holiday celebrations have you enjoyed on the road? Have you ever visited Israel during Chanukah? Anything else you want to know before you go? Let me know in the Comments!

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READ MORE ABOUT ISRAEL TRAVEL:
Insider Bucket List: 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

September 13, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Charlottesville may be a college town, but it is much more than a destination for the University of Virginia.

There are several US presidential estates in the area, most famously Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello Estate, but not only. Charlottesville is nestled in some of the greenest areas of Virginia, offering many opportunities for hiking and outdoor exploration. And the reason I keep coming back again and again? All of the delicious food and wine all nestled into a small, beautiful area.

It is definitely useful to have a car for a weekend in Charlottesville, because many of the sights you’ll want to see will be out of town. Also, if you’re like me and planning to do a bunch of wine tasting (and purchasing), it is handy to have the trunk of a car to transport it all. And of course, road tripping gives you the ultimate flexibility of how to spend your day.

Read on for all my top recommendations on ‘Things to Do’ and ‘Best Bites & Sips’ for when you visit.

Things To Do

Monticello

Former presidential estate of Thomas Jefferson, this is probably the most well-known landmark in the area and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tours are required, but you can get a ticket to do this at your own pace, or one that focuses on a specific aspect of the estate, like the lives of slaves on the plantation or Jefferson’s gardening interest and research. In the years since my last trip there, Monticello tourism has exploded, especially in summertime. Definitely try to time your visit for spring or fall, and plan to get an early start to beat the crowds.

TIP! You can get tickets online in advance at a discount, and this will save you waiting in line when you arrive. These are available until midnight the day before your visit.

TIP! There are quite a few quite easy walking trails across the property, so leave additional time if you’d like to explore more on foot beyond the estate and its buildings. A trail map is here.

Highland

Although James Monroe’s Highland Estate was (deliberately) close to Monticello, it attracts far fewer visitors. Certainly it is a smaller estate, but it also limited since the original house burned down at one point. The up side for visitors to the area is that even at the peak of summer travel when other spots are quite busy, you can still stroll in and enjoy the relaxing and quite informative tour of the grounds. A lot is still being discovered on the property, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth another look on your next Charlottesville trip.

TIP! Highland is so close to Monticello that it is quite easy to visit both together in a single morning or afternoon.

Explore Nature

https://www.instagram.com/p/BX0rKqIlNOk/

There are a ton of nearby green spaces to explore, most famously Shenandoah National Park and its scenic Skyline Drive. There are also a lot of nearby hikes that you can research through the national park website. There are also trails on the Monticello Estate, see more in the above TIP!

Historic Downtown Mall

This pedestrian area is the social center of Charlottesville and has a great variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants to enjoy over the course of an afternoon or evening (see ‘Best Bites & Sips’ below). Envisioned as an ‘urban park’ there are a ton of outdoor events scheduled here, especially in summer. Plus, there is an ongoing schedule of concerts and festivals at the adjacent Sprint Pavilion.

University of Virginia (UVA) Campus

Even if you’re not a prospective student or the family of one, you might want to explore the campus of the University of Virginia. It was founded by Thomas Jefferson in the early 1800s and is the only college campus in America that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Explore the campus on your own, or join UVA University Guide Service for one of the historical tours that take place most days at 10am, 11am, and 2pm. There are also tours about the ‘History of Women’ and ‘History of African Americans’ at the University by request.

Alcohol Alley

Nearby Route 151 is not the only place to find great wineries, breweries, and cideries in the Charlottesville area, but it sure has a lot of them – hence how it got nicknamed by locals. Certainly even if you do no research and have no plan for tasting the local libations, you can explore along this road and follow the excellent signage to pop into a few random spots. Silverback Distillery below was an impulse stop along this stretch of road, and there is lots more to explore.

Monticello Wine Trail

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQmk07grgO/

Honestly, the wineries (and the delicious food – see below) are the main reason I keep recommending Charlottesville as a great weekend getaway. You visit one or two of the 30+ local wineries over the course of the weekend or can set an ambitious schedule – like I *might* have done – hitting up 4-5 wineries in a day. It’s definitely possible to do that without feeling rushed, but of course it all depends on how early you start 😉

TIP! Most local wineries are open from 10 or 11am until 5 or 6pm.

My top 2 picks are DelFosse Vineyards & Winery and King Family Vineyards, but for more on the best local wineries – including which ones have the best lunch options and picnic grounds – head to my post all about Charlottesville Wineries.

Silverback Distillery

This was an impulse stop on a day of hitting up multiple wineries and a great find. Although the Distillery is only a few years old, it offers rye and honey rye, plus boasts several award winning alcohols including a very uniquely aromatic gin that I just loved. They also craft some pretty creative cocktails on the weekend, and I might have been just a little mesmerized by them setting a chunk of bark on fire to infuse their smoky Old Fashioned.

Best Bites & Sips

I have not had a bad meal in Charlottesville. There is a definite foodie culture in this university town and many outstanding options to choose from, from low-key dishes done well to high-end experimental cuisine. I certainly have not sampled them all (yet!) but I have done quite a bit of research into the spots where I did land on my trips, and have only included the spots of my most outstanding meals here.

A lot of the best spots are clustered in the downtown pedestrian area that extends for many blocks, and I’d definitely recommend staying walking distance from this part of town. There are several coffee and breakfast places to hit up in the morning, and dozens of exceptional restaurants to explore each evening.

Breakfast

Bluegrass Grill & Bakery

This place has a bit of something for everyone, kind of like a diner with more flavor combinations for each dish. And they might be just a wee bit obsessed with bacon, based on all of the signs and puns scattered around. No reservations, so be prepared for a wait, especially if you’re in a larger party.

TIP! It’s usually easier to snag a seat at one of the bar stools, which lets you leapfrog the list if you see a spot open up. I was seated in about 2 minutes on a crowded Sunday this way, and got the added entertainment of being able to see into the kitchen.

TIP! There are lots of vegetarian and vegan options here, in all sorts of delectable combinations.

Bodo’s Bagels

First off, let me say that I am a native New Yorker. Saturday memories of my childhood are filled with the aroma of steaming bagels piled high in a paper bag that my dad would go out and get fresh early in the morning. Any time I’ve lived outside of the New York City metro area, I usually transport bagels by the dozen to freeze and defrost one at a time for eating, because I’ve found that frozen and reheated NY bagels are still usually better than what I can find locally.

Bodo’s serves up a very respectable and delicious bagel, and it’s definitely worth seeking out on your visit, especially if you don’t have access to great bagels back at home. You’ll find each location packed with locals when you go!

Dinner

Brasserie Saison

It’s French cuisine with a twist, and easily accessible right on the downtown pedestrian mall. While I wish that the steak frites had been more traditional, their daily specials that you see were out of this world and there was a comprehensive wine and beer (and cocktail) list to accompany all these delicious bites. An outstanding spot – the only thing missing is to have some bread at the table to sop up all their amazing sauces!

TIP! The Brasserie is the only place in this section of the list that also serves lunch, if you’re looking for an upscale midday meal.

C&O Restaurant

This restaurant, named after the old Chesapeake & Ohio (C&O) train station across the street, may also be a local classic from many years ago, but you’ll get a delightfully modern and local take on food when you dine here. It is a bit upscale, although if you are visiting from a major US city, you may just see the prices as what you’d find at a neighborhood spot back home. The food is so delicious and beautifully presented in a great atmosphere with excellent service, that you’ll blissfully enjoy your time dining here. Added bonus? It’s right off the downtown pedestrian mall.

Ivy Inn

First of all, this is the one spot that is a bit far from the central pedestrian area I keep talking about, close to the UVA campus. But trust me, it’s worth the trek. The décor is a bit old school, but the innovative takes on dishes and flavor combinations are divine and every bite here was one to savor with just the right balance of textures as well. Plus, everything was beautifully presented, and they added some extra special touches for my birthday as you can see in the photos.

Zocalo

Zocalo is a Latin-inspired restaurant on the downtown pedestrian mall that was relatively new to the scene when I first visited a decade ago, and it is still just as good as it ever was. Their flavors are bold, execution flawless, and it is just really delicious food. Now a Charlottesville mainstay, it is a great spot for exploring all that the local food scene has to offer.

To Drink

Commonwealth Restaurant and Skybar

I can’t speak to their food although as you can tell from the name it is also a proper restaurant. I can vouch for their great beer selection and solid cocktails, though. My favorite part was sitting outside at the Skybar doing some people-watching, since it overlooks the central pedestrian area below.

TIP! Seating in this upstairs section is first-come, first-served.

Some Final Thoughts

Admittedly, my first forays into Charlottesville were to watch college lacrosse games. The University of Virginia (UVA) usually has a solid team, and sometimes I even did day trips from Washington, DC to see them play my alma mater.

The reason I’ve returned to Charlottesville time and again is not just the variety of things to do and great places to eat, but that there is such a high quality and friendliness everywhere you go.

This really is a superlative spot to spend a few days, and after recent events, Charlottesville is definitely in need of some tourist love. Get to it!

Have you been to Charlottesville? Are there any places that didn’t make my list but should have? Share away in the ‘Comments’ – I’ll definitely be back!

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9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

June 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Belize is a destination that over-delivers, with unexpected adventure and incredibly easy travel on any budget.

My decision to visit Belize was a bit last-minute, so it ended up being a solo trip, since there wasn’t enough time to coordinate with anyone and I had a narrow time window that worked with my schedule. Certainly I love to travel solo, although I do think about and plan my travel a bit differently when I know I’ll be on my own.

Although I did a bit of extra planning and coordinated one organized tour in advance, a lot of the additional preparation was not needed. It was just such an easy place to visit, with really incredible sights to see and explore once you arrived! It even boasts the Belize Barrier Reef, the longest in the western hemisphere, making for great water adventures as well.

Even for those who can be a bit apprehensive about international travel, visiting Belize is a very relaxed and easy vacation to enjoy.

#1 | People are Friendly

I had only stopped for a moment after arriving in San Ignacio by bus, to glance at the map on my phone to locate my guesthouse. During this brief pause, the police officer directing traffic at the nearby roundabout headed my way to ask if he could help me find my destination.

This encounter was typical of many I had in Belize, with locals approaching you to offer help if you paused and looked confused. Or even if you approached them, like I did when I first arrived at the Belize Bus Station from the airport, offering comprehensive and helpful information to help you arrive at your destination smoothly or just taking the time to get to know you and see how you’re liking your time in Belize.

#2 | Everyone speaks English

I don’t think it registered with me before my trip that Belize is part of the British Commonwealth. Until I saw Queen Elizabeth on all their currency, anyway! Belize only gained independence in 1981 (quite recently as Commonwealth countries go), and everyone I encountered there spoke English. Certainly for native English speakers, or those of other nationalities with even rudimentary English skills, this takes out a lot of the stress of visiting a foreign country.

While English is the official language, certainly Spanish is widely spoken, especially close to the Guatemalan border. And there is also a fair amount of Kriol (the local Creole language) and some other languages of the region.

#3 | Transport around Belize is easy

Depending on your comfort level and budget, there are plenty of options for how to get around Belize during your trip:

Renting a car. I like to have a buddy for road trips, so I didn’t opt to rent a car, although many do for their time in Belize. And road signs are all in English.

Buses. Buses are what I took most often, to get between cities and also for shorter day trips to Mayan ruins. The buses in Belize may look familiar, because they are second-hand school buses purchased from the United States! Many of them stay their original yellow color, although some bus companies paint over with other hues.

Between cities it can take a while on the bus (besides the Express), since they’ll stop at countless bus stops and intersections along the way. But especially for local buses, I found it extremely useful as a tourist since each bus has a person dedicated to taking money – and not driving – who can make sure you get off in the right spot for where you want to go. Plus, they’re cheap!

Taxis. Certain spots, like getting from the Belize City Airport to the Bus Station, are just easier in a taxi. Usually there is a fixed fare for these journeys, and even outside of the cities, there was always a local nearby who knew the going rate for a cab ride. Ask locals about the price to expect before you go, and you’ll know you’re paying a fair price.

Ferries/Water Taxis. If you’re visiting Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye off the coast of Belize City, most people opt for one of the water taxis that run across. There are also various spots along the coast with ferries. From Danriga, I took a bus to Independence (which was leaving much sooner than the Placencia bus), and then got a ferry to Placencia Town at the tip of the peninsula.

Flights. There are a lot of short-hop flights on local carriers like Maya Air and Tropic Air, especially along the coast. It’s definitely more expensive than the bus, but will get you to your destination much faster and with stunning views along the way as the planes fly quite low. I took one flight to get to the airport on my way home, so I didn’t have to leave super-early in the morning or stress about traffic on the road to Belize City.

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Car Transfers. If the thought of inter-city travel on an old school bus without air conditioning gives you pause, don’t worry, that’s not your only option. There are several car transfer companies that offer a more comfortable, air-conditioned, direct ride to your destination. Most hotels and guesthouses can arrange this for you in advance.

#4 | It’s easy to travel on a budget

While there are some costs you can’t avoid, overall travel around Belize is quite inexpensive, even if it’s accurately known as the most expensive country in Central America. That’s only by comparison to some very cheap places to visit.

Especially with taking bus transportation and doing some exploring on your own, you can get around and eat well for not all that much. If you’re willing to forego air conditioning, you can get true budget accommodations, but even my private room in a guesthouse with air conditioning in San Ignacio was only around $50 USD/night.

Plan for the budget you have, but cost should definitely not be a deterrent to visiting!

#5 | You can pay in US dollars pretty much anywhere

If you’re American or arriving from the US, you’ll be pleased to know that you can pay in US dollars throughout Belize. This includes taxis, random small town buses, and street vendors, as well as more established hotels and businesses. I never had my US dollars refused.

Typically when you pay with US currency, you’ll get Belizean dollars (BZD) as change, although sometimes I was offered a mix of USD and BZD. Don’t worry, it’s an easy conversion because the currencies are tied together: $1 US = $2 BZD.

I brought a fair bit of cash, and between that and paying for tours with a credit card when I could, I didn’t need to go to an ATM or formally exchange money the entire trip. Although since credit cards charge a conversion fee, it would have actually been a bit cheaper to pay for everything in cash, which I didn’t realize ahead of time. If you’re comfortable carrying that much, anyway.

TIP! Be sure to check whether prices are in USD or BZD at restaurants and shops since both currencies use the dollar sign ($) and you’ll want to know the actual cost of what you’re getting.

#6 | All sorts of adventures await

One of the main things that drew me to visit Belize was adventure. There are all sorts of active and outdoor activities to enjoy, and many of these are clustered in certain parts of the country, so it’s easy to have a single home base and do day trips in different directions, as I did from San Ignacio.

Adventures include:

exploring and climbing Mayan ruins (went to a few of these)
hiking
caving
swimming in waterfalls (did this twice)
visiting wildlife preserves
some of the best scuba diving and snorkeling in the world (I saw a manatee!)

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#7 | Tours are readily available

If you’re not quite as independent on the road as I am, or want to follow my lead and break up solo travel with a few organized tours, there is availability of tours for just about everything you might want to do. There are also a few outings that for preservation reasons, you can only enter with a tour guide.

I did full-day tours to the ATM cave (tour guide required), a day trip to Tikal in Guatemala, & a visit to a Mayan chocolate farm and factory (pictured above) followed by swimming in a waterfall. When I was staying at the beach, I also did a ½ day snorkeling tour at the last minute.

The only tour I arranged in advance was to visit the chocolate farm and factory, and all my other day trips I was able to arrange the night before. Most tours have a minimum of 2 people, so as a solo traveler, I just found out which tours already had people signed up for the following day. Or you can always pay a premium for a private tour.

#8 | You can relax on one of the countless beaches

On the Caribbean coast, Hopkins and Placencia (where I stayed), are the most popular beach destinations. But a country like Belize is not limited to a single coastline because there are hundreds of cayes!

Cayes are small islands of varying sizes, many with pristine white beaches and incredible snorkeling and diving in the surrounding water. Larger cayes will have accommodations available, so you can stay overnight or in some cases have a private section of beach to enjoy.

#9 | Great food everywhere you go

There some fabulous restaurants scattered throughout Belize. These range from fancy seafood restaurants, ones serving traditional Belizean cuisine, ethnic restaurants (lots of Chinese food), and upscale French and Italian spots.

There is also a strong street food culture. Which means that you can eat well everywhere, even in transit. And the cheapest food you can get, typically from a street food vendor, is often the most delicious.

You can get a sense of how much I enjoyed Belize because although I only recently returned from my trip, I am already strategizing about how to go back for a return visit!

I was a bit too early for the annual Lobster Festivals that take place in a few different coastal towns when lobster season begins each year on June 15^th. And I didn’t make it to the most popular part of Belize – the Cayes (Caulker & Ambergris).

Next time…

Have you been to Belize? What made it an enjoyable experience for you? Any other questions about what it’s like to visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Summer Bucket List: Making the Most of the Season

June 22, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Summer is a season where as a child you likely were off from school, and had a whole bunch of activities to enjoy while on vacation. For me, the thought of summer evokes the warmth of the summer sun and memories of playing and frolicking outside while I could. In a way, even then, I had a ‘Summer Bucket List.’

Even though I’m an adult older now, not much has changed. I’ll use any excuse to stay outdoors and have the wind on my face and feel the heat of the sun’s rays. From taking a road trip to dining outside, there are so many ways to take advantage of summer, even if big travel is not in the cards.

Some of these may pass you by if you’re not actively planning, so now is the time to get your ‘Summer Bucket List’ for this year started!

Head to the beach

No ‘Summer Bucket List’ would be complete without some time at the shore. Hot weather is tolerable up to a point, and then all you really want is somewhere to cool off. I love days at the beach because I can cool off in the water, then stay on the sand to dry off and warm up. And depending on which beach you’re at, there will be other activities you can enjoy there as well.

Go camping

It’s not so much fun shivering in a tent, but in warm weather, camping is lovely. This is something you probably won’t want to do for a lot of the year, so block off the time now to get out there. Especially since many campsites fill up in summertime and you may need to reserve in advance, this might be the hardest item on the ‘Summer Bucket List’ to make happen without some forethought.

Cook on a campfire (& make s’mores, of course!)

Camping is great, but even if you don’t go, you can still cook like you are out in nature. Roast some marshmallows, cook some meat on a stick, and get the flavor of the outdoors into your food. And if it gets chilly in the evening, you can warm yourself by the fire.

Watch the sun set

If it’s cold outside, it’s hard for me to get motivated to stand around outside, but in the summertime there are tons of excuses to be outside and watch the sun set. Be sure to pay attention so you don’t miss the beautiful colors for however many moments they last.

Go on a road trip

Driving in cold weather is fine, but it’s so much more enjoyable for me when the weather is nice. Between rolling the windows down and having the breeze blow by, it’s a great way to take in beautiful surroundings, and stop anywhere the mood strikes.

Take a hike

I don’t mean this in a mean way, I literally mean go hiking somewhere. If it’s the peak of summer you’ll want to do this earlier before the heat of the day, but there are lots of great hiking spots that aren’t too strenuous in the heat. And in the summer sun, the views will be amazing!

Travel somewhere cooler

I realize that not everyone is a summer baby like me, so you may not be as comfortable in the absolute heat of the season. Summer can be a great time to venture somewhere with a typically colder climate. I went on a great Alaskan cruise during summer, and lots of people head to places with less extreme temperatures.

Dine at a table outside

For me, it’s a totally different experience to dine out with a heat lamp as opposed to just enjoying a naturally hot day. Summer is a time of year that I try to eat outside whenever possible, and luckily plenty of restaurants by me offer outdoor seating. Enjoy the novelty while it lasts!

Head to a rooftop bar

The warm weather of summer is definitely the time to head to a rooftop bar. Being a bit higher up means great people watching, and if you’re lucky, a bit of a breeze as well. It’s never as fun for me to go to a rooftop bar in winter when the space is enclosed – I much prefer the open air of summer.

See an outdoor sports game

In the US, it’s baseball season, and there are plenty of other outdoor sporting events to attend wherever you are in the world. It’s a chance to support your local team while enjoying the atmosphere of being outside. And it may not be the healthiest, but I love stadium dining once in a while.

Drink iced coffee

When it’s wintertime, I always like my coffee hot, but there’s just something refreshing about iced coffee on a hot day. If you’re a caffeine fiend like me, freeze some coffee so it stays just as strong when the ice melts, but enjoy coffee as a cold beverage to fuel your other summer endeavors.

Enjoy some light summer reading

I like reading a mix of serious and light reads, but summertime for me is mostly about books that are not too weighty. Especially if I’m on vacation. There are a million settings where you can enjoy the nice weather of summer and get engrossed in a novel, find the one that works for you. Or read a book that will inspire your next trip!

BBQ

Whether it’s for a group of friends or just for yourself, the warm weather of summer is the perfect time to cook outside over a fire. The flavor of a grill just screams summer for me, and I love cooking outside as much as I can!

Go on a picnic

Enjoying the outdoors doesn’t necessarily mean planning elaborate travel. It can be as simple as a day trip to a beautiful spot, where you can enjoy a lunch as simple or as intricate as you’d like. And if you do go on that hike, enjoy a picnic lunch along the way.

Take a boat ride

I’m lucky to live quite close to the water, with a water taxi nearby. Even if it’s just traveling across the harbor, there is something so lovely about getting out on a boat. And it’s all the more wonderful when you have extended time to be out on a boat tour, or if you’re lucky enough to have a boat (or know someone who does). Take advantage this summer!

Watch an outdoor movie or play

Lots of cities around the world offer outdoor movies during the summer season or some variation on a play in a park. I even saw an outdoor opera once! There are plenty of performances outside, or even movie screenings to enjoy, be sure to block off the time.

Eat your favorite summer foods again and again

There are certain foods that evoke summertime. Perhaps it’s a slice of watermelon or a barbecued corn-on-the-cob. Indulge those summer memories and seek out your favorite foods of the season.

Plan fall travel!

I’ve actually already started planning for fall this week. I booked a long weekend in Detroit to visit friends in early October, and am eyeing possible foodie weekends in a few spots, including Mexico City. Even though it’s time to savor summer, don’t forget about taking advantage of slightly cooler temperatures when autumn arrives.

What do you have planned for the summer? Anything I should add to my ‘Summer Bucket List’? Tell me all about in in the ‘Comments’ below!

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