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How to Spend One Day in Mainz, Germany

How to Spend One Day in Mainz, Germany

Tons of people each year end up with a layover in Frankfurt, and many opt to stay the night, but most probably make it to this gem – the city of Mainz, which is on the Frankfurt metro system. I didn’t even know Mainz existed, except perhaps an obscure reference in my high school history class a long time ago. But when I saw pictures of a fellow expat friend (thanks, Lisa!) taking a trip there to see the Chagall Windows of one of the churches, I knew I had to make a stop during my next visit to Frankfurt.

I had originally planned to go to Mainz for just a couple of hours in the morning, but was having such a wonderful time I ended up spending the entire day! And Mainz also had one of the most beautiful things I saw all of last year, which you can read more about in my Thanksgiving post here.

My visit to Mainz occurred almost exactly a year ago – in the dead of winter. My top 2 highlights? the Chagall Windows at St. Stephan’s Church & the Gutenberg Museum, seeing multiple Gutenberg Bibles.

If Mainz absolutely charmed me in the coldest weather of the year, you’ll love it whenever you are able to go!

Things to Do

Around Town

Gutenberg Museum

If you know your history, you’ll recall that Johannes Gutenberg invented the printing press in the mid-1400s, which was revolutionary in allowing for the mass printing of books and pamphlets, spreading knowledge and improving literacy across all social classes. Although the machine was a feat of engineering, printing in those days was part art, part science, and Gutenberg’s printing of the Bible (and many other books and pamphlets) created some of the world’s most prized possessions. You’ll catch all of the relevant history at the museum, but be sure to time your visit to catch one of the printing press demonstrations by the friendly staff and also leave enough time to savor the beauty of the original Gutenberg Bibles on display. I couldn’t help but stand there awestruck, and visited the room with the Bibles again and again as I walked through different floors of the museum. Seeing the Gutenberg Bibles was one of my absolute highlights of all of 2016 – and that’s saying a lot!

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Mainz Cathedral (Mainzer Dom)

Located in the central pedestrian area, this Cathedral has been around for over 1,000 years, and its history can be traced in the different architectural styles of the building and adornments. Take your time strolling through to appreciate the details of the artistry and history displayed throughout, and be sure to visit the outdoor courtyard.

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Market Square (Marktplatz)

Surrounding many of these ‘Around Town’ attractions is the market square, part of the broader pedestrian plazas and streets. Even when not en route to or from one of the attractions, take the time to wander the old part of the city and join the daily rhythm of the locals.

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St. Augustine’s Church (Augustinerkirche)

Not far from the Mainz Cathedral – and a few hundred years younger – the Augustinerkirche has a very different feel. The interior decorations here are quite elaborate and include many gold accents typical of the Baroque style, and is beautiful in its own right.

Off the Beaten Path

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Citadel (Zitadelle)

The Citadel is an entire complex, originally an abbey and later a fortress, and has a lot of trails to stroll around. Housed on site is also the Historical Museum of Mainz and from April until October you can even take tours a couple of days a week that take you on and to the underground areas of the Citadel.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While the main website linked above is in German, if you scroll to the bottom of the homepage there is an option to switch your browsing language to English.

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Synagogue, Synagogenplatz

Built less than a decade ago, the new synagogue of Mainz serves a local Jewish community nearly 1,000 people strong. The building is striking from the outside – seemingly an abstract, modernist creation – but in reality comprised of the hebrew letters for kedusha, holiness. In a moment of travel serendipity, one of the staff peeked out while I was photographing the synagogue’s exterior (as you can see in the photo above!) and was kind enough to let me in and join a tour that was in progress, so I got to view the synagogue’s stunning interior as well. Although picture-taking of the sanctuary was not allowed, you can see the incredible features of the building on the architect’s website here. The synagogue was the spot I visited that was farthest from the historical center, but local trams will get you there easily (see (More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below).

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Old Synagogue

The previous synagogue of Mainz no longer stands, however there is a plaque commemorating its location. Originally constructed in 1878, it was damaged during Kristallnacht in 1938 and then destroyed in 1942 by bombings during World War II. Above you can see the rendering of what it looked like before it was destroyed, a model that was on display at the new Synagogue when I visited.

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Roman Theater

There is not a ton to see, although it is an interesting juxtaposition to have the ancient Roman Theater abutting the modern train station. Since you’re likely to arrive in Mainz right nearby (see (More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below), it’s worth the short stroll from the train station to check it out.

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St. Stephan’s Church

People make a special journey to this church (and even the city of Mainz) for one thing – the blue Chagall windows. Notable as the only German church that the Jewish artist Marc Chagall designed for, his signature stained glass windows are even more breathtaking in person. The church is located a bit away from the most central part of town, but is another one of the absolute highlights of my visit to Mainz, and probably the #1 attraction for most tourists. Be sure to make this a priority during your time in Mainz!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The main Mainz website offers itineraries for a variety of self-guided city walks, to help you logically navigate the different sights that interest you most.

Best Bites

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Eisgrub-Bräu

The oldest brewery in Mainz, this is a great spot to grab a beer and sample some delicious, traditional German food. The brewing takes place on site, so you’ll see the giant tanks inside the restaurant, maturing the several different types of in-house brews. The restaurant is a short stroll from the central pedestrian area – just far enough away that it was completely packed with locals when I went. I was on my own, but if you’re in a group (or really ambitious) you can order the giant cylinder with over 2 liters of beer!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! This restaurant is open for weekday lunch, while many restaurants in town are only open for dinner during the week. Anywhere you’re planning to eat, be sure to check the operating hours ahead of time.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Coming from anywhere on the Frankfurt metro, a day pass is a great, economical option. And if you get a train pass, it’s also valid for transportation within the city of Mainz. There is an extensive tram system that takes you between different parts of town, saving you some walking and quite helpful in bad (or cold) weather.

Also, there are multiple train stops in Mainz. For access to the historical center and quaint pedestrian areas, you’ll want to travel to the S-bahn stop by the Roman Theater: Mainz Römisches Theater.

For me Mainz really over-delivered, with the Gutenberg Bibles being the absolute highlight that I couldn’t get enough of, but by no stretch the only amazing and beautiful thing I saw during my day there.

What’s your favorite part about Mainz? Any other tips for a visit? And what was the last city that wowed you unexpectedly? Share away in the Comments!

How to Spend One Day - 24 hours - in Mainz Germany
What You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

What You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

As a child, I had heard the legend of driving on the Autobahn, the German highway with no speed limit. It was one of those peculiarities of countries beyond the scope of my wildest dreams, where strange things happened and the rules weren’t quite the same as at home.

Of course, my vivid imagination painted a clear picture of this large oval raceway traversing the country, with six lanes in each direction and cars zooming past at racetrack speeds. Just like car races on TV!

As I grew into adulthood, honestly, my vision of what driving on the Autobahn must be like never actually changed much. I hadn’t visited Germany, and without planning a trip there, I never looked into what life was like in all that much detail. The Germany of my childhood years was caught up in images of Berlin, on the day the Wall fell. No highway image in sight.

And moving to Milan a little over three years ago, I didn’t think all that much about what driving in Germany would be like. At least, until my first summer road trip.

My First Experience Driving in Germany

As the car approached the German border from Luxembourg, to the west, headed toward Frankfurt, I wondered, What would it be like to finally be driving on the Autobahn? There are open borders across the Schengen zone in much of Europe, so it’s not immediately clear which moment I entered Germany, but the first thing I see on the highway is . . . a speed limit sign?!?

Confused? I certainly was. The Autobahn was supposed to be the highway with no rules, where you can drive as fast as you want and basically do what you like. Sums up pretty much all your childhood dreams about adulthood, right? (It certainly was how I always pictured getting older.)

Of course, the realities of driving in Germany on the Autobahn are just a bit different from the carefree dream, much like my illusions about what it’s like to be an adult. And the Germans sure have specific ways of doing things, even on the highway without a speed limit.

So what is it really like driving on the Autobahn??

Things You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

The Autobahn isn’t one special highway with no speed limit, it’s just the German word for highway. Any highway in Germany is an autobahn.

Sign indicating unlimited speed for driving on the autobahn in Germany
Image: Wikimedia Commons

Speed is not always unlimited, only on certain stretches marked by the appropriate sign (the one above!). This was really my initial shock of first driving on the autobahn. Yes, there are some pretty long sections depending on the highway that will have no limit, but there are also plenty of spots that will have a speed limit for quite a while. Of course, your best bet is to have driving stretches far away from the city to really get the full autobahn driving experience.

A lot of highways in Germany are what I would consider pretty regular roads through the countryside, with just two lanes in each direction. The first word that came to mind when driving on a German autobahn was dinky. The ‘highway’ wasn’t particularly impressive and certainly did not seem set up for driving at unlimited speeds, especially the ones that have only two lanes in each direction and no guardrail. Don’t get me wrong, highways in Germany are well-paved and a very smooth ride even at top speeds, but there is nothing futuristic or particularly modern-looking about it.

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Even when the speed limit is unlimited for extended stretches, it still slows to 120 kilometers per hour (75miles/hour) at major interchanges along the way. Yes, now that I think about it, it makes complete sense that you would need to be going at a reasonable pace if you wanted any chance of making the exit to another highway without veering off the exit ramp. But this means that even if you have several straight hours driving on an autobahn, every time you cross another major road, you’ll be slowing down considerably. So it’s more of an ebb and flow of speeding along and ‘normal’ highway driving than a continuous racetrack atmosphere.

When you’re driving 250 km/h and have to suddenly slow to 120 km/h it feels like . . . coming to a complete stop. Again, one of those things that makes sense. Of course going from 120 or 130 km/h to 0 km/hr is not so different from the deceleration from 250 to 120. But I don’t think I ever expected shifting my speed *down to* 80 miles per hour would feel like standing still. But it does. And it’s such an interesting sensation.

If you’re speeding through the left lane and a car decides to jump out and pass the car ahead, you must slow down (sometimes very rapidly!) so you don’t have an accident. At least with upcoming interchanges, you get signs and a bit of a warning that you are about to undergo a major slowdown. You can prepare mentally, and perhaps start slowing down a bit early so the shift is not as jarring. When a car doesn’t look first – or doesn’t care – that you are hurtling through the left lane, and it just wants to pass the slightly slower car or truck ahead, it will jump out suddenly. And to avoid a collision, that leaves you scrambling to slow down as quickly as possible.

And even if an accident is not your fault, you can be held liable for at least some of the cost if you are going faster than typical autobahn defaults speeds of 120-130 km/h. Believe me, I had this little tidbit drilled into my head long before I ever got behind the wheel to drive on an unlimited speed section of an autobahn. One of the (fairly logical) consequences of the privilege of driving as fast as you’d like, is that it also comes with the responsibility of being a safe driver. So for an accident that might have been able to avoided had you been going normal highway speed, you may be culpable financially for the damages.

The experience driving in Germany at top speeds is exhilarating! For me, maxing out the car’s engine when I see that unlimited speed sign involves a complete shift in driving. I sit up in my seat for maximum visibility of the road, and start to feel the adrenaline rush that comes with the anticipation and watching the speedometer climb. I lean imperceptibly forward and feel a heightened sense of awareness as I try to watch cars in the lane to my right. I spend the entire time on edge so I can see when someone jumps in front of me the exact moment it happens, to give my reflexes that extra fraction of a second to react. I feel the energy and exhilaration of whizzing by other cars, hurtling toward my destination at twice the normal speed. And I blare the radio to something with a fast beat, mirroring the car’s cadence. Honestly, it feels like a scene out of a movie, and all my sense are heightened as the car propels itself at rocket speeds along the highway.

Being on a German autobahn doesn’t make you immune to traffic. Nothing is more depressing than driving on the autobahn at top speeds, and then having to slow down or stop for traffic. Yes folks, you read that right, sometimes you are stopped on the autobahn. I’ve been caught before in autobahn traffic jam in which I was at a complete stop for nearly an hour! The joy of driving on a highway with no speed limit gets a bit trampled on when you’re too stuck in traffic to be able to drive at all. Unfortunately this is the nature of traffic jams in Europe, and something to be prepared for on the autobahn. Traffic can also be less dramatic, and just involve slow sections with a high volume of cars on the road, in which case there is no room to go fast and you’re relegated to the flow of the road.

READ MORE: Tips for Taking a Road Trip in Europe

If it gets too hot in summer, speed is likely going to be limited. I know that summer is prime vacation time to visit Europe, so if that is when you’re planning your German holiday, that is also when you’re probably planning to try out autobahn driving for the first time. Some heatwaves over the past few summers had an impact I hadn’t previously considered – that extreme heat coupled with cars going at top speeds can cause some serious damage to the roadway. Sections of the autobahn buckled and cracked, and speed limits were reduced accordingly in both 2015 and 2016. If you’re planning a trip in summer, be aware that speed limits might be imposed in sections that normally have an unlimited speed, if the temperatures climb too high.

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The view of the landscape is incredible. For a lot of German autobahn driving, you’re far outside any main cities and taking in views of the lush countryside, especially in spring and summer when everything is in bloom. At top speeds, it’s passing quite fast, but the nice part about the sections with a speed limit is that you actually get to see and appreciate Germany’s beauty. A lot more scenic than many other drives I’ve done.

And in the end, going so fast has a real impact on your petrol usage and gas mileage (kilometrage?), so most drivers don’t try to push their cars’ absolute limits when it comes to speed. Yes, if you are driving fast on the open road of a German autobahn, you probably won’t be the only one zooming along, but from what I’ve seen, most Germans seem to stick to a speed of around 150-160 km/h (90-100 mph) on the highway’s unlimited stretches. Faster than you’re typically allowed to go, but definitely a practical not-super-fast speed where you retain a lot of control and don’t have to make huge speed adjustments every time an interchange approaches.

In the end, I found that autobahn driving wasn’t all that different from any other highway driving I’ve done anywhere in the world.

With just a few differences of course when the speed becomes unlimited, especially if you choose on the open stretches to go as fast as your car will take you. And certainly, if driving at breakneck speeds puts abject panic in your heart, you could drive on the autobahn only a bit faster than the way you drive on highways at home. And not be too out of place.

What’s the fastest you’ve ever gone in a car? Have you driven on the German Autobahn before? Any other things that surprised you about driving in Germany? Or tips you’d give to someone driving on the Autobahn for the first time? Share away in the Comments below.

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What You Need to Know Top Tips About Driving on the Autobahn in Germany landscape

How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

If you’re like me and love going out to a restaurant with a group of adventurous friends, because it means you get to sample even more different dishes, the thought of traveling solo may give you pause. How will you consume enough meals to taste all of the local dishes? What if there are multiple dishes you’d like to sample, but you’re just not hungry enough to order (and eat) them all?

As someone who both loves to eat and savors my time traveling solo, this issue has come up for me time and again. Over the last two decades or so, I have definitely honed what types of food I seek out when I’m on my own on the road, to maximize the number of different bites and how much local cuisine I get to experience. And fortunately, as solo travel has become more commonplace, I don’t get nearly the amount of looks or raised eyebrows as I used to when asking for a “table for one.”

How to Dine Solo, Your Own Way

“Oh no,” you’re thinking, “I just don’t feel comfortable eating at a restaurant by myself.” Don’t worry, that’s okay! Several of the options below involve street food or eating-on-the-go. And even at a proper restaurant, a lot of times there is a bar where you can sit and order food and socialize, or possibly a communal table where you may encounter others traveling solo or other friendly diners.

For those of you ready to dine solo at a restaurant for the first time, it can look like whatever you’re comfortable with. I’ve seen people reading a newspaper or a book as they eat alone, which for many eliminates what would otherwise be a socially awkward situation. Others spend it on their smart phone, reading, planning, or staying in touch with friends. Some solo diners sit back and quietly take in their surroundings. And others will just keep a deep focus on the food, slowly savoring each bite.

Personally, I tend to either be introspective, reflecting on my day or strategizing for the day ahead, or will go into people-watching mode. I’ll sit and quietly observe the diners around me inside the restaurant, pretending I am at an outdoor table at a cafe watching the passers-by. Occasionally, I’ll read – usually a long-form newspaper article or an article to learn more about a tourist attraction I already visited. And when the food comes, I do my best to channel my focus on truly enjoying the flavors as I eat. Do what works best for you!

Foods to Seek Out

To eat well during solo travel, my basic strategy is to cobble together a bunch of different bites on my own, by sampling the offerings of different street food vendors or enjoying small plates of food at a sit-down restaurant – in whatever combination feels right on a particular trip. Here’s what to look for:

Appetizers

I mention a lot of specific types of cuisine below, but in fact, any restaurant can be turned into your own customized version of small plates by simply ordering 2-3 starters or sides instead of a main dish. Just ask before you order, and most places will be happy to accommodate you. It can also be helpful to specify if you want your dishes to arrive all at once, or to be brought out one at a time.

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Bakeries

Bakeries and pastry shops (or bakery sections in supermarkets) can offer a quick bite in the morning to leave room for a larger lunch. You can also get a taste of local life by sampling the baked good of choice, whether sweet or savory. Or get a bunch of smaller items to sample for lunch, as nibbles throughout the day, or snacks to consume while out hiking.

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Breakfast or Brunch

You may not have thought of it this way before, but many breakfast or brunch options can really be several different types of food all on a single plate together: eggs, potatoes, vegetables, and a sauce. Even if breakfast is included with my accommodation, I will still sometimes go out somewhere for a more authentic first meal of the day, and a lot of countries have very local breakfast options that you won’t see anywhere else (check out this post on Singaporean breakfast for the details on one of my favorites). And many breakfasts can be ordered for take away if you don’t feel like dining alone.

Buffets

In general I’m not a huge buffet person, but when I’m on the road for a limited time, it can often be the most effective way to sample many different dishes of the local cuisine. Often hotels or hotel restaurants will serve food buffet-style, and you typically don’t need to be a guest at the hotel to partake. Do be sure to check ahead of time when buffet meals will be available, as in certain locales it will only be offered on 1 night each week (or only specifically feature local cuisine on a single night).

Happy Hour

Taking place usually over a few hours in the afternoon, happy hour often includes special deals on small portions of food and allows you to sit at the bar if you feel like socializing. Italy has especially good happy hour options, from small bites or buffet spreads at aperitivo to traditional tapas in Venice known as cicchetti. Wherever you’ll be traveling solo likely has some similar local happy hour specials. Ask at your hostel or hotel, or gather some intel from locals who can point you in the right direction.

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Indian restaurants

In my experience, there are a fair number of Indian restaurants all over the world that have lunch buffets or set menus available. When I am traveling solo and seeking out Indian food, I will also peruse a menu in advance to see if there is thali available, another option which is a built-in way to try lots of dishes. A thali is basically like a sampler platter and will include bread, rice, and a mix of other curries and dishes, all for a reasonable price. Usually a vegetarian and meat thali option will both be offered.

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Set Menus

You’ll see a set menu option more often for lunch, with a choice of a few dishes for each course, sometimes including a beverage and/or dessert. Set menus offer a good value on price as well.  One of my favorite places to take advantage of a set menu is in Liechtenstein, which otherwise can be a pricey place to dine out. Keep your eyes open starting in the late morning when these specials begin to be advertised, and find a spot that strikes your fancy or fits your budget.

Spanish restaurants

I have one word for you: tapas! These small plates have become trendy in a lot of places outside of Spain, so in many countries you’ll be able to find a Spanish restaurant where the dishes come in small enough portions that you can pick out a few different ones and still have a reasonably sized meal for one. Of course this works in Spain as well, and is especially fun at a busy market stall. Plus, many tapas places I’ve visited – both in Spain and elsewhere – have a bar where you can sit and order dishes, which can be a more social experience for solo travellers.

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Street Food

There are many cities renowned for their street food offerings, but even for most others, you can find delicious and inexpensive bites on the go. Street food lets you eat with your other senses first – hearing the sizzle of a piece of meat on a grill, smelling enticing aromas waft toward you, or seeing where the locals queue up for the best bites. I’ve had some of my best street food experiences in Asia (Bangkok & Chiang Mai in Thailand have possibly been my favorite spots – for being able to get small bites from a lot of different vendors). But if you keep your eyes open you’ll see street vendors in most cities you visit, and there are also a lot of places where Food Trucks are trendy and ever-present with many types of cuisines represented. Go ahead and sample whatever catches your eye. Or tempts one of your other senses.

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Tasting Menus

On the opposite end of the budget spectrum, you can also get a fair bit of food variety on the high-end of dining, especially when there is a tasting or degustation menu available. And at several of these more fancy establishments, you’ll even have the option to sit at the bar or communal table, which can be a less intimidating experience for the solo diner. This can be true even at Michelin-starred places, like the satisfying tasting menu I recently enjoyed at Stockholm’s Ekstedt (sitting at a communal table where I met and chatted during the whole meal with another solo traveller!).

Or the very reasonably priced tasting menus I enjoyed on my own at Restaurant Bieberbau in Berlin and several restaurants around Malta.

READ MORE: Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta & Malta Travel Tips

Turkish (or Middle Eastern) restaurants

This is another cuisine that naturally lends itself to having a lot of small dishes – called mezze – cobbled together to form a meal. Think grilled meats, falafel balls, hummus, babaganoush, and tabbouli in small portions that together can form a satisfying single meal with a whole lot of variety. Middle Eastern cuisines can also be well-suited to vegetarians, as many of the mezze are vegetable- or legume-based.

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Vegetarian restaurants

Despite not having meat on the menu, vegetarian and vegan restaurants can offer some of the best variety of bites on a single plate. I usually encounter a mix of starches, proteins, and vegetables that can be mixed and matched for a single dish. Sometimes there are even small plates available. And although I’m not a vegetarian, some of my most recent memorable bites dining solo have been at vegetarian establishments.

 

Of course, there is no one right way to eat well while traveling solo. This list is really a starting point for you to venture out and figure out what types of cuisine and dining formats feel comfortable for you, and help you to maximize your time alone on the road. And of course, as you become a more and more seasoned solo traveler, use this list as inspiration for that food or restaurant to try next!

Do you notice yourself gravitating toward certain foods when you travel solo? What things have you found most helpful to keep in mind for eating well when you travel on your own? Any other advice or cuisines to add to the list? Share your tips below!

EAT WELL (1)

Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Happy new year!

This year is starting off in an unusual way for me – it’s January and other than a weekend trip by train to New York City, I don’t have a single trip planned yet.

Which means I’m in as much a need of some travel direction as everyone else who hasn’t made any big travel plans for the year ahead.

For my top travel destinations to recommend for 2019, I’ve included a mix of locations hosting special events worth seeking out and also some new, not-too-overrun spots to check out. My past lists have mostly focused on countries, but this year’s list has a few specific cities and sites as well.

And for the first time, it’s divided into sections: New Recommendations for 2019 & Previous Recommendations I’m Highlighting. With some great spots I’ve never featured before and also some previous destinations that are especially great to consider this year.

Without further ado, I present – in alphabetical order – this year’s top 6 new travel picks:

Berlin (Germany)

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If you’ve never been to Berlin, the first image of the city that may come to mind is a view of the wall coming down. Which is exactly what the city commemorates this year – the 30th anniversary of reunification. The Berlin Wall did not fall until November of 1989, however there will be a lot of special exhibits and events throughout the entirety of 2019.

Even separate from the historical significance this year, Berlin is such a cosmopolitan city that it is a great destination anytime.

While plenty of museums focus on the Wall, there is a wealth of other museums like you’d find in any other capital. Excellent food options abound, including many ethnic restaurants, and like any good German city, there is a great beer. Oh, and as you’ll see in the Cheat Sheet below, no shortage of beautiful rooftop views of the metropolis.

READ MORE: Berlin Cheat Sheet

READ MORE: Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Cambodia

Cambodia is best known for the Angkor Wat temple complexes, which was the main draw when I visited. For me it was one of those places (like Petra in Jordan) that really exceeded expectations. Don’t shortchange yourself and plan to spend at least 2-3 days there exploring, including areas outside of town and closer to nature like Kbal Spean. Plus, the town of Siem Reap keeps developing, with more options every year for exploring local culture and sampling traditional Cambodian cuisine.

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Of course, Cambodia has a lot more to offer beyond its most famous attraction, with plenty of notable cities, beaches, nature, and wildlife areas throughout the country. As most of the tourism centers on Angkor Wat and Siem Reap, you’ll have more relaxed experiences in capital Phnom Penh, in smaller towns, and along most of its coastline.

Chile

Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Did you miss the total solar eclipse in the US in 2017? I saw the partial eclipse from the roof of my office building, but after hearing others’ accounts of witnessing the complete darkness (or totality), I definitely want to see that for myself. In July of 2019, there is another total solar eclipse coming this time to South America, and many consider Chile to be the best viewing spot. If you’d like to go, now is the time to plan for it.

Georgia

The country of Georgia is probably the item that has been highest on my bucket list for the longest, without me actually having visited yet. So, why go? Like many former Soviet republics, a lot of its wonders were hidden from most of the world during the second half of the twentieth century, but there is so much to entice tourists to this nation bordering the Black Sea.

Georgian Wine Flight from Georgia at Supra Restaurant Washington DC Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180303_201252

Georgia has an 8,000 year (!!) history of winemaking, the longest of any country. Once known as the “Tuscany of the Soviet Union,” for decades Russia was Georgia’s main wine consumer, but in recent decades since the break up of the Soviet Union, its wine is more readily available to everyone else. There are incredible monasteries to check out, many of which also produce wine. And like any good wine culture, the food is also amazing.

Food from Georgia at Supra Restaurant Washington DC Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180303_203225

Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC
Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC

I recently enjoyed Georgian food and wine at a local restaurant, and I’m even more obsessed than before!

Norway

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Even if you’ve never been to Norway, you’ve probably heard about its dramatic fjords and natural beauty. Sure, you can be a tourist and stick to the cities, but this really is a destination suited to a traveler who enjoys the great outdoors. In summer, boat cruises in the fjords abound. On land, whether its taking a funicular up to enjoy some sweeping views, or hiking up to the same spot, it is stunningly beautiful to take in. In winter, there is snowy exploring, from seeing polar bears in the wild to a chance at viewing the Northern Lights.

Like the rest of Scandinavia, Norway is probably a bit pricey compared to where you currently live, however if you’re planning on a lot of hiking your costs can be kept pretty reasonable. Plus, there are many discount air carriers that go, so transport costs can be quite affordable as well.

The up side of Norway for tourists – like any Scandinavian destination – is that the country is quite safe and English is widely spoken.

Norwegian Waffle Bar Barista Bergen Norway Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180929_152304

The biggest surprise for me on my recent visit was the food. There are the fun, heart-shaped Norwegian waffles and some upscale, Michelin-starred options in the major cities, especially the nature-adjacent oil city of Stavanger.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

TIP! Just be conscious of the seasons when you plan your trip, as the warm period is pretty limited to June-August, depending on where exactly in Norway you’re headed.

(Any City) USA

It used to be that America’s smaller cities did not have much to offer the well-traveled visitor, but I’ve noticed quite a change in recent years. With restaurant trends toward locally-inspired products and more and more people identifying as “foodies,” even off-the-beaten-path cities can be excellent travel destinations with ample delicious dining options for a weekend of exploring.

I’ve been pleasantly surprised myself in places like…

Boise, Idaho

Charlottesville, Virginia

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQmk07grgO/

Detroit, Michigan

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZ9XSrjHLPk/

I hear great things about…

Asheville, North Carolina
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

And there are plenty of other American cities out there with increasingly more to offer any tourist, and I always find it fun to explore places before they become too popular with other travelers.

READ MORE: How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia

READ MORE: Fun Facts: Things to Know about Detroit Before You Visit

This year’s list of new spots is shorter than in previous years, but that’s because so many of my past recommendations are still so timely.

Here are 5 of the destinations I’ve featured previously that are also excellent choices for 2019 travel:

Australia

Featured Opera House Sydney Australia Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0630

This country/continent has been a great value destination recently and is even more so for the coming year. There has been a recent further dip in currency, which is bad for my bank account, but great value for travelers who’ve been hesitant about visiting due to cost.

READ MORE: 10 Things to Know about Kangaroos Before You Visit Australia

READ MORE: The Best Tour of the Sydney Opera House

READ MORE: 12 Things to Expect on a Visit to Perth

READ MORE: Best Eating While Camping in WA’s Southern Forests

Belize

Belize Mayan Ruins Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0786

This Central American gem from the 2018 list continues to be one of the safest and easiest (English-speaking!) travel options in that part of the world.

READ MORE: 9 Reasons to Make Belize Your Next Travel Destination

READ MORE: Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave

READ MORE: Fun Facts: Things to Know about Belize Before You Visit

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein Castle Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0545

This micro-nation (from the 2017 list) is celebrating its tricentennial – its 300th anniversary! – this year and will also have a host of special events taking place like some of the other destinations above. It’s an easy add-on if you’re already planning to visit Innsbruck (Austria), Munich (Germany), or Zurich (Switzerland).

READ MORE: Visiting Liechtenstein: A Perfect Weekend Getaway

Oman

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Muscat Oman Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0739

This is another 2017 list pick that is already popping up on many other travel lists this year and continues to be a hot spot for discovering an authentic slice of the Middle East.

READ MORE: Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

READ MORE: Ways Hospitality in Oman Will Wow You

READ MORE: 9 Reasons Why a Road Trip Is The Best Way to See Oman

Plovdiv (Bulgaria)

Theater2 Plovdiv Bulgaria Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0265

Bulgaria made my 2017 list of Top Travel Destinations, and it’s making a return appearance because my favorite city there, Plovdiv, has been designated a 2019 European Capital of Culture. Not only is it an ancient Roman city with plenty of ruins to explore, food in Plovdiv is delicious, and some of Bulgaria’s excellent wine country is nearby. Take advantage of the area especially catering to tourists and providing countless special events by visiting this year.

READ MORE: 11 Incredible Reasons to Visit Plovdiv, Bulgaria

READ MORE: Best Light Shows Around the World

Certainly there is no shortage of amazing destinations to seek out, regardless of what kind of trip you’re after. What I find to be the most important thing is to make a plan for a year of travel early on, so the months don’t slip by without taking a trip.

Get inspired. And then get out there!

See all of my past annual travel destination recommendations here:

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

READ MORE: Top 10 Travel Destinations for 2017

I still stand by them all.

Happy travels in the new year, everyone!!

What destinations are inspiring you for 2019 travel? Anywhere I missed that would be a great destination this year? What travel do you already have planned for 2019? Let me know more in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Top Travel Destinations of 2019 pinkTop Travel Destinations of 2019 yellow

3 Places Worth Visiting within a 2-hour drive of Oktoberfest in Munich

3 Places Worth Visiting within a 2-hour drive of Oktoberfest in Munich

Oktoberfest in Munich is a blast and has so many surprises in store, but after a few days of drinking beer and carousing, you’re probably ready for a change of scenery. Munich’s downtown area is great to explore, but that can easily be done in a morning or two before heading to the Oktoberfest tents. If you’re looking to get out into Bavaria, see some lovely landscapes, or hunt down particular tourist attractions, there are a number of great options nearby.

Each of the 3 places I’ve listed could be done as a day trip, or part of a longer road trip in the region – it depends on how much time you have on vacation and what piques your interest. If you are planning to do some type of road trip in conjunction with an Oktoberfest visit, be sure to check out my tips for road tripping in Europe.

And here are some spots nearby to Munich to check out:

Not sure what it is, but I just love this shot

Stuttgart, Germany

I actually visited Stuttgart in the summer, but it would be a great city to check out in the autumn as well. It is one of Germany’s largest cities and has a lot of history represented around town, and also the traditional Swabian food, which is a bit different than the food traditions of Munich.

What to Do:

Here I am coming down from my ride on a continuously-moving elevator
Here I am coming down from my ride on a continuously-moving elevator

  • Take a Walking Tour (I can highly recommend Stuttgart Steps for this). You’ll get a thorough overview of the history and traditions of the region, and get to check out some of the hidden treasures around town.
  • Wander the Old Town. There is a lot to see, just pick a direction and wander! If you do a walking tour, you may have some spots you’d like to return to for a closer look.

    Cheesy kasespatzle, not all that different from macaroni and cheese
    Cheesy kasespatzle, not all that different from macaroni and cheese
  • Eat Swabian food. This involves hearty mountain food and lots of spätzle. Many menus in town indicate which dishes on offer are Swabian classics.
  • Check out the Mercedes-Benz & Porsche museums. I actually haven’t visited either of these world-famous car museums, but both are popular attractions on the outskirts of Stuttgart.

    I thought this was a Mercedes office building, but no, just the central train station. Mercedes (and Porsche) own this town!
    I thought this was a Mercedes office building, but no, just the central train station. Mercedes (and Porsche) own this town!
  • Stroll the city parks. Stuttgart has a lot of green space, and you’ll see many locals relaxing and socializing in these areas – and you should, too.
  • Visit a Winery (or several). I only went to one, Weinmanufaktur Untertunkheim, which had a huge variety of tasty white and red varietals. I was able to arrive to their city cellar without an appointment, and taste several wines guided in English by one of the staff people on hand. Depending on how much time you have, there are others in the area.
  • Check out Stuttgart’s Oktoberfest (“Beer Festival”), which is now the 2nd-largest one after Munich. If you’re visiting Stuttgart during Munich’s Oktoberfest, it will also be Oktoberfest in Stuttgart. More details are on the official website here.

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Innsbruck, Austria

Some locations in Austria, like Innsbruck, are actually closer to Munich than other German cities. Innsbruck has a very different flavor, and is a great spot to do some exploring and enjoy different food and beer traditions. Although I was there in winter when it’s a popular ski destination, there is a lot to see around town and ways to enjoy the outdoors in autumn.

What to Do:

  • Wander the Old Town. It was an option for Stuttgart above, and this is a great activity for Innsbruck as well. There is a cobblestone pedestrian area that you can wander, and a lot of the distinctive buildings and palaces are along the way.20160123_173156-2
  • Explore Churches and Palaces. There are quite a few of these around Innsbruck, many of which you’re likely to see as you walk through the Old Town. Take the time to check out at least a few, to get a feel for Austrian history and appreciate some beautiful sculptures.
  • Take a funicular to a panoramic lookout. There are many cable cars and many lookout spots at different stops up the mountains surrounding Innsbruck. Not only are the views stunning, but the Zaha Hadid-designed Hungerburg station – accessible from the city center – is a destination of its own.20160124_100027
  • Hike. Fall weather is great for hiking, and a more physically active way to take in the views and appreciate the landscape. If you’re getting restless after many days sitting around drinking beer at Oktoberfest, Innsbruck is an ideal jumping off point for day hikes. There are even some less strenuous options, where you can ascend in a cable car and do a relatively flat loop – like the Zirbenweg trail described here.
  • Drink craft beer. There is quite a beer tradition in Austria as well, and walking around you’ll see plenty of signs for either bars focused on craft beers or restaurants with a vast beer selection. Sample some local brews to get some different flavors after your Oktoberfest experience.

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Hohenschwangau, Germany (Bavarian castles)

While you may have heard of Stuttgart or Innsbruck, you’re likely to have never heard of Hohenschwangau. So what makes this particular spot in Bavaria such a draw? The two famous castles that are on neighboring hilltops include one that was the model for the iconic Disney castle. This is the one place of the three that I visited in conjunction with my trip to Munich’s Oktoberfest. You’ll likely find other Oktoberfest visitors making the same trip, but it’s not terribly crowded here on a weekday.

What to Do:

It was a little foggy and rainy. You're *supposed* to be able to see the model for the Disney castle behind me.
It was a little foggy and rainy. You’re *supposed* to be able to see the model for the Disney castle behind me.

  • Visit the Neuchwanstein Castle. This is probably the most popular one to tour, as people try to get shots with the castle that very obviously is the inspiration for the Disney castle. There are paths around the castle and onto a nearby bridge. Hopefully you’ll encounter better weather than I did on the very foggy afternoon spent there.20141001_152721
  • Visit the Schloss Hohenschwangau. In very close proximity to Neuchwanstein, you can also visit the Hohenschwangau Castle, which is the older of the two and the childhood royal home of Bavarian King Ludwig II, who built Neuchwanstein.
  • Enjoy the great outdoors. In addition to the walk up the hills to the castle if you opt out of the paid bus, like Innsbruck there is a lot of hiking possible in this area. If you stay overnight, you’ll have enough time to take advantage of activities besides the castle visits that will fill most of your first day here.

TIP! The castles have timed tickets for entry, which can be reserved for both castles in advance here or purchased the same day on site, although if you wait until the day of, your preferred visit time may not be available.

 

Have you done other day trips from Munich? What other visit do you most want to combine with a trip to Munich’s Oktoberfest?

Or do you still have Oktoberfest questions? Ask away in the Comments.

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3 Places Worth Visiting Near (within a 2-hour drive of) Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany

13 Things I Didn’t Know about Oktoberfest (until I went)

13 Things I Didn’t Know about Oktoberfest (until I went)

But Lana, you say, it’s only September. Why write about Oktoberfest now? Well, actually that brings me right into my list of what I *didn’t* know about Oktoberfest until I went:

  1. Oktoberfest is so named because it *ends* in October. It starts in mid-September.More precisely, Oktoberfest runs for 16 days ending on the first Sunday in October, so some years there are very few days in the month of October that are part of the festivities. Some years – like this one – have October 3rd (German National Day) falling after the first Sunday, so Oktoberfest gets extended until then.
  2. Oktoberfest in Munich is the most famous, and the one on most people’s bucket lists. But it isn’t the *only* Oktoberfest. If low-key is more your scene, other Oktoberfests are held in the fall throughout Germany. Berlin and Stuttgart, along with other Germany cities, also host relatively large Oktoberfest gatherings. And there are even Oktoberfests organized all over the world! Wikipedia has a good round-up here if you’re looking for an Oktoberfest celebration a little closer to home.
  3. Accommodations (even private rooms in hostels!) are super-expensive and sell out early.When first looking into going to Oktoberfest, I wanted to be sure I had a place to sleep, and actually started by looking into local hostels. A lot of Munich hostel options turned out being *more* expensive that other local hotels, and seemed to sell out sooner. If you’re making plans relatively last-minute, I can highly recommend Hotel Uhland, where I ended up staying. You must book by contacting them personally and pre-pay, which means that they still have available rooms after other booking sites have sold out and re-release rooms if payment is not received. Plus, they offer parking and are in an excellent location – close to the metro and city center, and very easy walking distance to the Oktoberfest grounds.

    Beer festival and carnival in one!
    Beer festival and carnival in one!
  1. Oktoberfest is really a giant carnival held on a huge grassy expanse.I really thought that Oktoberfest was all about the beer. Until I went, that is. It is held on an enormous plot of land, with your typical carnival rides as far as the eye can see. There were even a lot of families with children enjoying the experience. As for riding the rides, I recommend that you pace yourself between drinking before going on a ride that will spin you and have you hanging upside down 😉
  2. Oktoberfest is FREE.Well, of course you’ll be paying for food, beer, and any rides or souvenirs you purchase, but attending itself is completely free. This could even be a relatively budget-friendly trip, if you find cheap enough accommodations (and don’t drink too much beer).img_1158
  1. Many people dress up, but don’t worry, lots of people don’t.Before I went, I casually looked into how much I would have to spend to purchase a traditional German outfit called a dirndl, and the prices were outrageous. But once Oktoberfest has started in Munich, there are deep discounts to be had, especially toward the end of the festival. I bought my entire dirndl (there are a few different parts to the outfit) at a pop-up shop for just 30 Euro. If you are the crafty type, it wouldn’t take much sewing to make your own outfit. And if you’re a man, it seems that wearing any plaid shirt and dark colored shorts or pants will enable you to fit in, and plenty of more authentic outfits are for sale as well.20140930_112934
  1. The Oktoberfest fairgrounds are not in the city center, so you could go to Oktoberfest and never really visit the city of Munich.I just assumed that Oktoberfest would take over the city center, with tents setup throughout the cobblestone streets, but this is not quite true – see #4 above. If you need a morning break from drinking (and you probably will) join the many other Oktoberfest visitors making the trek to the city center to actually see a bit of Munich. It is very walkable, with beautiful old buildings and a lot of casual outdoor eateries to take advantage of when lunchtime rolls around. Just don’t wait too long to head over the the Oktoberfest fairgrounds and snag your spot at a table in one of the tents.20140929_150058
  1. Beer comes by the LITER.Yes, by the liter! It’s a very large amount of beer – if you’re having trouble picturing it, this is a bit more than 2 pints and around 34 ounces. Plan your drinking accordingly. On my biggest day, I drank 4 liters over the course of many, many hours. You may drink more or less, but if you really want to enjoy your time at Oktoberfest, don’t overdo it on your first day there.
  2. Many people who attend are tourists, not necessarily heavy drinkers or beer aficionados.There are a ton of tourists who are coming to Oktoberfest for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Then they arrive, and discover that beer is served by the liter – see #8 above. And these tourists only enjoy Oktoberfest for one day because they are too hungover to function by the second one. By breakfast Wednesday morning at my hotel, most tables were only occupied by one person because the spouse was not feeling well enough to come. Hopefully you’ve been keeping your tolerance high back at home if you’re planning to consume many liters of beer per day when you arrive. Either way though, pace yourself so you can enjoy all of your time at Oktoberfest, especially if your visit is likely to be your only one.
  3. You can only reserve space at a table in one of the tents for 10 or more people.Reserving will not be possible for most visitors who aren’t coming in that large of a group and don’t know any locals. That’s okay though, if you go to Oktoberfest on a weekday, people are generally friendly and there’s always room to get cozy and squeeze in 2 or 4 additional people at what might at first glance look like an already full table (this is possible on the weekends as well, but you’ll want to be there early in the morning to snag space).
  4. Each tent is not really a tent but a fairly sturdy wooden structure.I feel like I had heard so much about the different tents at Oktoberfest that I had a picture in my mind of a very large circus tent with fabric flaps. Instead, walking onto the Oktoberfest grounds you see what look like very large wooden lodge houses. It still a “tent” because it is not permanent, although you wouldn’t know this by looking at the buildings. Inside there are wooden picnic tables with long benches, and even proper bathrooms. So don’t worry, you won’t be roughing it to enjoy the various “tents.”
  5. Servers come to the tables.I guess I hadn’t really thought about this ahead of time, but it would be quite the chaotic scene if there were no servers. First, find a seat, then find a server to place your order (for both beer and food from the formal menu). Some tents have an assigned person for each table or there are roving servers for you to flag down. There are also roving vendors for the more portable food, like pretzels. And remember who took your order in case your beer or food gets lost in the chaos and you want to flag someone down to ask.20140930_111910
  1. Each tent is also a giant party, with a live band playing sets all day and night long. If you don’t know German drinking songs, you will by the end of your time at Oktoberfest!The music selections vary by the tent, the time of day, and span from traditional German jigs (oopmah, not polka, if you ask a German) to Top 40 hits from recent decades. And every so often – several times an hour – each band in all of the tents break out with the same German drinking song called “Ein Prosit” that everyone sings along with and toasts to at the end. The later in the day it is, the more people start standing on the benches as soon as the first few notes start. Get into the Oktoberfest spirit and learn the words here.

And Travel Savvy Gal’s *TOP* tip for Oktoberfest in Munich – Go during the week.

Everything is easier: finding hotel reservations, getting a seat in a tent, flagging down a server, and most importantly, making friends =)

Prost!!

Have you been to Oktoberfest in Munich? What were some of the things that surprised you? Or what was the most surprising thing for you from my list? Are you going to Oktoberfest and still have questions I can help with? Let me know in the Comments section below.

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13 Things to Know About Oktoberfest in Munich Germany Before You Go

Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Berlin’s East Side Gallery is the longest open-air art gallery in the world, where artists have left their mark on an extended section of the original Berlin Wall. Artist got a wide rectangular section of wall as their canvas, and the resulting art is a combination of humor, political satire, and hope. A fitting mix of emotions given the symbolic nature of the wall during the Cold War, and the harsh reality it represented for Berlin’s inhabitants.

I’ve already posted a quite thorough Berlin Cheat Sheet on the blog with my impressions of the city, all the best things to do, restaurants and food to seek out, and thorough tips to make the most of your visit. These images will give you a closer look as to why the city made such an impression on me, and why I left thinking of it as a ‘City of Contradictions.’

The Berlin Wall has been on my mind again lately, as I recently visited a section of the original wall, also adorned with art, in the lobby of a random New York City office building:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BS4kdtIg2G1/?taken-by=travelsavvygal&hl=en

The East Side Gallery of course is the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall. You can get a sense of the length of the East Side Gallery in this shot, although you may have to get pretty close to your screen to see just how far it continues to wrap around alongside the road:

East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0789

In this photo journey through my visit, I’m including the panels that I found most interesting, many of which have incredible detail. I spent around two hours strolling up and down the panels – you could spend more or less depending on how much time you’re interested in spending with each mural.

And you’ll notice that some of my shots include fencing. Over the years since 1990 when the East Side Gallery first opened, there have been some sections obscured by graffiti, and so after a restoration effort, fences have been put up to protect the art.

Here’s what I saw…

German flag with overlay from the Israeli flag:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0763

Portrayal of the Allied Checkpoint Charlie, which connected the two sides of Berlin for those authorized to cross:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0768

Interesting panel, since there is a three-dimensional component with the plant box. Reminiscent of a church for me:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0770

“Save Our Earth” and the incredibly detailed, colorful panel on the left:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0773

Amnesty International dove of peace and chain of captivity:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0783

I’ll let the bold yellow and red here speak for itself:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0784

The panel that was most impactful for me, so I’m including 2 different perspectives. It portrays a “Curriculum Vitae” of the people killed while trying to escape, during each of the years the wall stood from 1961-1989:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0785

Each rose represents one person:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0786East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0787

I spent quite a bit of time in front of this final panel, what do you make of it?East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0794

Which panel made the biggest impression on you? Have you been to the East Side Gallery? Any memorable panels I missed?

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Berlin's East Side Gallery in pictures Germany

Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Impressions

Berlin is very different from other German cities I’ve visited, and at some moments does not feel like Germany at all. It has this young, industrial bustle, is teeming with hipsters, and embraces ethnic food and the latest trends. However, there are still moments when you feel like you could be in any European city and not Berlin specifically: walking along the tree-lined Kurfürstendamm for high-end shopping, or strolling the Alexanderplatz hunting for bargains with the masses at TK Maxx (yes, just like TJ Maxx).

Modern Berlin is a city of contradictions. It is both distinct and anonymous. I’ve heard it compared to Austin, Texas, which is a city in Texas that has such a different flavor than other Texas cities, and sometimes doesn’t feel like Texas. A pretty apt comparison, in fact.

Germany Berlin 20160626_203237

Berlin is both rule-following and rebellious. I was there when Germany beat Slovakia in the Round of 16 of the 2016 Euro Cup. The Germans went wild celebrating in their cars, driving up the main streets with German flags streaming out of the car windows and honking their horns for hours. But the cars also proceeded in a very orderly manner, taking great care not to block the second lane reserved for buses. And while the bus drivers who monitor tickets by hand and the U-bahn and S-bahn run like clockwork, I saw many Germans ignoring the rules – smoking on train platforms and drinking on board.

Oh, and the history. I thought I knew about Berlin during the Cold War, East and West Germany, the Berlin wall. I didn’t realize how much I didn’t know until visiting Berlin. I think I was most surprised by everything I learned about the Berlin wall. I was not alive when it went up, although I remember watching the wall come down on TV. And I even visited the largest (unchanged) section of the Wall outside of Germany in the late 1990s when it was part of an outdoor display of the Newseum in DC. But somehow I managed to escape that time period without a coherent understanding of what the wall was and how it came into being.

The first “wall” was really just a wall of soldiers that appeared overnight in 1961. People went to bed one night with free passage to family and friends in the other sectors of Berlin, and woke up to a human barrier around East Berlin that was already in the process of being converted into a physical wall.

For me, understanding the suddenness of the shift helped to explain some of the desperation I read and heard about the various escape attempts from East to West Berlin: the twenty-something student who wanted to reunite with his parents, the 80-year old woman who wanted to join her daughter. Both perished in their attempts. Or the East German border guard who jumped the wall in the early days when it was just a bunch of barbed wire, captured in this iconic photograph. Although Conrad Schumann escaped to freedom, his defection haunted him throughout his life and he committed suicide nearly a decade after the fall of the Berlin wall.

Things to Do

As you can tell, the history of Berlin really captivated me. See below for my top picks for what to do during your visit (in order of preferene within each section):

Around Town

Walking Tour

There is so much to see and history to take in, so I found it hugely helpful to have a walking tour to orient me and explain the major sites on my first afternoon. I did a tour with Original Berlin Walks that I thought was fabulous (and did not require an advance reservation, which was a plus), although there are other highly-rated walking tours available.

TIP! The walking tours that have Western meeting points typically are listed 30-minutes sooner than the Easten meeting point because you spend the first half-hour traveling east together. Unless you’re nervous, about finding the spot for yourself, arrange your itinerary for the day to arrive at the eastern meeting point at the appointed time.

TIP! While there is a small discount for booking online in advance, there is an even bigger discount if you have the Berlin Welcome Card, and pay in person on the day.

 

Hol memorial DSC_0608

Holocaust memorial

This is an outdoor memorial, which I recommend experiencing first-hand, and there is also a museum on site that does a good job of conveying information in a way that makes you think, even if you’ve been to other Holocaust memorials or museums.

Brandenburg DSC_0621

Brandenburg gate

Icon of the city, and even more special to be able to visit it today since it was inaccessible while the Berlin Wall stood. You are likely to come across this during your visit, even if you do not actively seek it out.

Jüdisches Museum

Different from the museum at the Holocaust memorial, because it gives a window into Jewish life in Germany both before and after. Famous architect Daniel Libeskind designed some of the newer sections, and the temporary art exhibit upstairs was also very good when I visited.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie

This was probably one of the least user-friendly museums I’ve ever visited, because the written materials are written in long-form in four languages and is very hard to follow and glean key details. Despite the super-long blurbs, it is very cool to see the memorabilia that has been accummulated in the private collection, especially of methods people used to escape from East Berlin, from the more well-known car compartments to the more obscure surfboards and hot air balloon.

Checkpoint Charlie

It is cool to see the place where this border crossing once stood, although the current checkpoint is a reproduction. Named “Charlie” because the checkpoints were named consecutively using the phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie). This third American checkpoint was the most visible while the Wall still stood.

Neue Synagogue DSC_0097

Neue Synagoge

Although this was once the main synagogue in Berlin, it has not been fully reconstructed. It is still stunning from the outside (it is modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain), and has a history of the Berlin Jewish community, including fun tidbits like the “well-known violin concert” given there in 1930 by none other than Albert Einstein.

Off the Beaten Path

Berlin Wall Memorial/Gedenkstatte Beliner Mauer

While there isn’t much of the wall itself left at this site, there is a moving set of poles marking the location of what by the end of its time was a much more elaborate barricade between East and West Berlin. The “Wall” really ended up being two different walls with empty space in between called “the death strip,” and this memorial marks many of the successful and failed attempts for those in East Berlin to escape. This is an open-air exhibit which will take you several hours to walk through and absorb the thorough written, audio, and video descriptions of this section of the wall. Most surprising to me was seeing a photo from when Martin Luther King Jr. visited the Berlin wall in the mid-1960s, even giving a speech on both sides of the wall. There is also a whole exhibit inside the local S-bahn Nordbahnhof stop about what happened to the metro system when the wall was up.

East Side Gallery 20160625_133111

East Side Gallery

This is an open-air exhibit of a very long section of the Berlin Wall that has been thoughtfully decorated by artists from around the world. Worth a trip, and you can visit at any time of day.  Check out this Photo Gallery of some of the most interesting sections.

Sachsenhausen DSC_0983

Sachsenhausen

This concentration camp is accessible by train from the city center, although it takes a while to reach. There are tours available either from Berlin or on site, although I found the audio guide quite useful during my visit. An important part of German history that I found very moving to see first-hand.

Amazing views

Reichstag Dome DSC_0208

Reichstag Dome

This iconic building that houses the German Parliament has a glass dome with an inclined ramp that is free to visit for expansive views of Berlin, although it does require advance registration. If you are booking early enough, there is the possibility of registering on-line, and guided tour registration may also be available online if you visit when Parliament is not in session.

TIP! If, like me, you are planning last-minute, you can register in person for the same day or next day in-person from 8am. While there is a small line right at 8am, by 8:20am or so there was no wait (and it can be up to an hour wait or more in the afternoon). Be sure to bring your passport or European ID card to sign up, they let in 100 people per hour.

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Fernsehturm (the TV tower)

You can buy an early-bird ticket, or just go on the early side to beat lines (and you’ll still get discounted admission if you have the Berlin Welcome Card). There is an indoor viewing window where you can walk around at your leisure and appreciate a fairly high-altitude view of all corners of the city. Like with the Reichstag Dome in-person ticket purchase, after the first 20-30 minutes of opening, you can get in without waiting.

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Berliner Dom

The Berlin cathedral is lovely to visit and in addition to housing some exhibitions and a crypt, there is also the option (which I recommend!) of climbing several hundred stairs to get up to the walkway outside of the dome for 360-degree views of the city and some exhilirating fresh air.

Best Bites

I ate really well in Berlin. Like, really well. And I don’t say that lightly. While I sampled my fair share of ethnic food, my best bites (breakfast aside) were mostly the local specialties:

Best Breakfasts

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  • Chipps

Chipps serves a variety of large portion breakfasts meant for people with appetites (like me), although there is the usual selection of pastries and yogurts for those looking for a more minimal meal. There >is also a vegan option for the bacon and sausage that accompanies some of the dishes, plus nice coffee and fresh juice options.

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  • Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers

    I had a wonderful Australian-style breakfast here – a flat white coffee drink with perfectly-seasoned avocado toast, and I got the addition of a poached egg. The pastries looked great as well, and while very centrally located, Father Carpenter’s is in a quaint courtyard with outdoor seating as well as the space indoors.

Best Street Food

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  • Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap This is *the* place for kebap, a very popular street food in Berlin. I got the “usual” version here, which comes with chicken. The bread is toasted perfectly, and the proportion of ingredients was just perfect down to the spray of juice from a lemon wedge to finish. Each kebap is made to order with care, and you will wait accordingly (1 hour when I went, so go early before usual mealtimes if you can). And be sure to go to the original at Mehringdamm, as the two locals I met in line told me that the other outposts closer to the main tourist areas are not as good.

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  • Hühnerhaus 36

    Serving Berlin’s typical fried chicken, I had a perfectly crispy and flavorful 1/2 hen with the spicy garlic sauce, which also comes with a choice of salad/fries/rice/bulgur. There is the street stand and the sit-down place across the street from each other, and they are Halal. This place is off the beaten path, although not terribly far from the East Side Gallery.

Best German food

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  • Zur Letzten Instanz

    One of the 10 oldest restaurants in the world (it is rumored that Napoleon ate here once), they have been satisfying hungry customers since 1621! But don’t come only for the history, this place serves up typical German fare done well. I don’t eat pork so I ordered the one fish dish on the menu, which was just phenomenal and came with the best sauerkraut of my life. And it wasn’t very crowded for lunch on a Friday.

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  • Marjellchen

    Although reservations are recommended, I didn’t reserve, but was able to eat at the bar. This is another spot with great typical German dishes. To drink, this is a great spot to sample the local specialty: Berliner Weisse beer “mit schuss,” with rot (red – raspberry) or grün (green – woodruff) syrup.

Best overall meal

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  • Restaurant Bieberbau.  This was the only restaurant where I made a reservation, since it’s off the beaten path and I didn’t want to arrive and get turned away. They serve high-level cuisine with amazing flavors and textures, but with helpful and friendly service, and incredibly reasonable prices. And it is not pretentious at all – my kind of place. The aperitif special the night I was there was a sparkling riesling with rose syrup and the bread basket came with red wine butter and also curry apple butter, just to give you an idea of the flavor combinations and creativity you’ll experience dining here. And you can get a half glass of wine at exactly half price of a regular one, so I got to have a lot of great sips paired with the various courses. A truly satisfying dining experience.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

I’ve included a few practical tips above next to the relevant attraction. Here are a couple more general tips for Berlin:

Berlin Welcome Card

Berlin is huge! It basically developed as two different cities when the wall was up, and then was reunited as one, so there is huge sprawl. Even with unlimited public transit travel, I walked a huge amount each day. I can’t imagine *not* using public transit very heavily as a tourist.

I bought a 5-day Berlin Welcome Card, and found that it was only slightly more expensive than just getting an unlimited transit pass for the same amount of time. Plus, with the Berlin Welcome Card, I received discounts for: my walking tour, going to the top of the Fernsehturm (TV tower), the Jüdisches museum, the Neue Synagogue, and Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.

TIP! You can buy the Berlin Welcome Card ahead of time online.

TIP! If you don’t buy online, there are points of sale for the Berlin Welcome Card at both major airports. And if you buy at the airport, your initial public transit trip into the city will be included. Plus, the line was much shorter to get the Berlin Welcome Card than just a ticket for the bus.

TIP! Know in advance how many days you’d like the pass (2-6 days) and whether you want it for zones A-B for just the city or A-B-C, which includes the periphery like Potsdam.

Get a phone data plan

While I am often an advocate of sticking to WiFi connections and using phone GPS without data for navigating, I found phone data hugely helpful in Berlin. The city is huge, and if nothing else, active data is a helpful tool to navigate efficiently on public transit from one location to another.

Have you visited Berlin before? What was the highlight for you? And what was the most surprising part of its history did you learn during your visit? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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Berlin Germany Cheat Sheet - Tips, What to Do, & Where to Eat

How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

Solo travel can look like so many different things, and is one of the most rewarding things I have done as a frequent traveler. I love having a buddy (or several) to share my travel adventures with, but there is a totally different perspective and awareness that comes from taking a trip just for you. Most destinations have an abundance of organized activities as well as plenty of things you can do solo, so you really can tailor the trip to what is best for you personally, or most comfortable. And you can still eat incredibly well while traveling alone. Even though I’ve been a solo traveler for nearly two decades, I keep planning (and savoring) solo trips, and have now visited over a dozen countries on my own.

Below I break it down into my step-by-step process for how I plan my solo trips, whether it’s for a weekend or a month. Follow the process one step at a time, and before you know it you’ll be on your first trip on your own!

Planning…

Step 1: Pick the amount of time you’ll travel.

This sounds basic, but it’s hugely important. If this will be your first solo trip, you’ll probably want to keep it to a day or weekend, so you can get a taste for solo travel without feeling too overwhelmed or stressed with the planning. Sometimes the amount of time will be dictated by your available vacation time from work or a period of time in between trips already planned with other people. In any case, decide on something reasonable that fits with your free time, level of comfort, and budget.

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Step 2: Pick a destination.

This step can be done interchangeably with Step 1. Sometimes I block off time to travel and then pick where I’ll go & other times I have somewhere I want to visit and figure out how much time I have available to spend there. In any case, picking a destination is related to your free time, as you probably won’t want to venture too far for a weekend trip, but might spend 20 hours flying to go away for a month. Take into account how expensive a destination is (both to get there & once you arrive), whether you speak the language, and if there are enough things you’re interested in doing for the time you’ve set aside.

Step 3: Book transportation.

This step for me is always the point at which things go from me dreaming about a trip to it becoming R-E-A-L. If you book a flight in the US, you have 24 hours to change your mind, but most other US transportation options – and certainly international ones – are typically non-refundable or can only be changed with a hefty fee. So for me, booking my transportation to and from a place is when I feel committed. Figure out if it’s best for you to arrive by car, bus, train, or plane, look into economical options that work with your schedule. And of course, don’t forget to take a minute to run down my Travel Checklist for Booking Flights, most of which applies to bus or train transportation as well. Then just pull the trigger and book!

Let’s be real, people tend to be most terrified of this step, myself included. You may think it over for so long that there are no good cheap flight options left or you let your fear get the better of you and never actually make the plan. But take a second to think about it. At this stage, you’ve already decided where to go and for how long, so the hard part is over. Don’t think too much about it, and just book. Now you’re going on a trip!! And it’ll be great =)

Kayaking as the sun is starting to set.

Step 4: Decide how you’ll split your trip between time on your own vs. organized tours.

When I have a solo trip planned for anything longer than a weekend, I typically plan at least one formal tour. Not only is this a great way to get to know a place while hosted by locals or experts, it is a social activity that can be a nice way to break up time sightseeing on your own. I also use organized tours as a way to meet others, including (but not only!) other solo travelers. This is also your chance to decide how much time feels right for you to be traveling on your own. If this is your first solo trip, you might want to schedule some form of planned activity each day you’ll be traveling. Or every other day. Perhaps you like to explore new places at your own pace and will only schedule a single day activity for a week on the road.

This is your chance to be real with yourself about what feels comfortable and works for you. And the good news? There’s no wrong way to take a solo trip! Do it in a way so you don’t feel overwhelmed or in over your head. For me, if I’m feeling adventurous, I’ll book only a single tour – or even none at all. If I don’t have a lot of planning time, or will be too exhausted from a previous trip, I’ll slot in more activities in advance. You can get a better feel for what this balance might look like in the next section, where I share the details of previous solo trips I’ve taken. Of course, if you decide to not plan any organized activities ahead of time, skip straight to Step 5.

Step 5: Book accommodations.

The only reason I am putting this step after outlining your rough overview of your trip is because some organized tours or trips may involve overnights where you’re sleeping arrangements are taken care of (see more about my Thailand trip in the next section), so you’ll want to know which nights are not accounted for before booking where you’ll stay. Your style of travel may typically involve familiar chains or boutique hotels, but if you are traveling solo I’d also recommend that you consider booking accommodations where you can meet others easily, like a hostel. Many hostels offer private room options if you’re not interested in having a bed in a communal dorm room, and often will host other solo travelers who might be looking for a sightseeing companion for a day or afternoon. They are also great sources of information on local tours and excursions, and can often book these for you directly. Regardless of which type of accommodation you choose, be sure to run down my Travel Checklist for Booking Accommodations.

I urge you that even if your days are unplanned, to book accommodations ahead of time, so you know where you’ll be resting your head each night. Even if you’re a seasoned solo traveler who chooses to not book and leave it up in the air, at a minimum take a few minutes to search and do a reality check that there’s still decent availability on the nights you’ll be somewhere – not every destination has a wealth of places to stay or there may be a convention or special event in town you didn’t know about that has most places already booked up. In which case, you will probably want to go ahead and reserve accommodations in advance.

Step 6: Rent a car (if applicable).

Honestly, I tend to shy away from renting a car when I’m traveling on my own. Street signs, especially in a foreign country, can range from confusing to being displayed in a different alphabet from your own. And navigating can also present challenges, even if you have a data plan for your phone or have rented a GPS along with the vehicle. Personally I like driving in a strange place with a buddy, so one person can drive and the other help navigate, although I have rented a car on my own in more familiar locales. If you do go this route, be sure in advance that you’ll really be comfortable doing so, and also check out my road trip tips – some of these are Europe-specific but many apply to any time you’re renting a car or taking a road trip.

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Step 7: Figure out if there are any restaurants that you’ll want to reserve in advance.

Sometimes for me this step is quite quick, involving a cursory internet search to discover that I’ll probably want to stick to low-key places or that there are no “fancy” restaurants or local hot spots I really want to sample that would involve a reservation. In other cases, I’ll get caught up scouring many excellent options and reserve one or several places for dinner around any organized tours I’ve already planned. Again, specific to your level of comfort, you can eat street food for all of your meals, plan all your meals at sit-down establishments, or anticipate a mix of sit-down places and eating on the go. There are a great variety of restaurant types that are friendly to the solo diner, and of course you can pretty much always find a place to eat, even without advance planning.

Step 8: Do as much (or as little) additional research as you’d like.

For certain trips, I’ll spend weeks intermittently looking into sights to see and places I’d like to eat while I’m there. Sometimes for me this is flipping through a guidebook at the airport waiting for my flight, or during the train ride or flight itself. Or posting a plea on Facebook a few days beforehand requesting begging for recommendations from friends who have previously visited a certain destination. This is another step that is really up to you in terms of how much, if any, effort you put into it, depending on your comfort level and how much of your trip you’d like to be planned out in advance.

*NOTE: Regardless of your level of advance planning, still check out the “Before you go” section below for the essentials to definitely complete before your trip begins, regardless of how much other planning you’ve done ahead of time.

Details of actual solo trips I’ve taken!

I’ve given a detailed run-down of my trip planning for my week-long solo trip to Thailand in 2015, plus an overview of one shorter and one longer solo trip I’ve done to give you an idea of what your trip might look like – and how little planning it takes to flesh out an itinerary for a week away on your own.

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Berlin, Germany (long weekend)

There are an abundance of walking tours in Berlin, so while I didn’t buy a ticket ahead of time, I did research into the meeting spots and times for different options, and ended up having a great introduction to the city with an experienced guide. I also blocked off one day to visit the Sachsenhausen concentration camp, which has an audioguide and the option of an in-person guide as well. Then I left my other two days unplanned, although I did do advance research into restaurants to try and sightseeing options. You can find more details about my favorite spots and best Berlin meals in the blog post I wrote here.

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Thailand (1 week)

Steps 1 & 2: My solo trip in Thailand was actually my second time visiting the country, and I chose to spend a week there between the northern town of Chiang Mai and Bangkok, the capital.

Step 3: I knew I wanted to spend most of my time in Chiang Mai (which I had missed on my first trip), then went ahead and booked my flights to and from Bangkok, with a side round-trip flight to Chiang Mai.

Step 4: In terms of activities, I was interested in spending so much time in Chiang Mai to be able to do a 2-day meditation retreat and also some rock climbing. After looking into some options, I realized that I could do an overnight homestay as part of a climbing and zip-lining trip, so booked that as well. That was just enough organized activity, although I did meet another female traveler at my hostel who arrived a day before her travel companion, and we spent my first afternoon in town exploring Chiang Mai together.

I had two full days in Bangkok, and booked one organized activity there – a night tour of the city by tuk-tuk, including street food and sightseeing. I sought out this option after knowing from my previous trip both how hot the city can get during the day and also how difficult it can be at times to navigate between different neighborhoods.

Step 5: I booked a private room in a hostel in Chiang Mai for the nights I wasn’t away (2 of my excursions were overnight), and then reserved a bed in an all-female dorm in Bangkok (close to the MRT stop where the airport express arrived). Saving money on my Bangkok accommodation let me splurge on my meals there =)

Step 6: Nope, no rental car.

Step 7: I knew I wanted to eat at nahm in Bangkok, one of the “World’s 50 Best Restaurants,” so I made a reservation for my last night in town. Their tasting menu ended up being well-suited to the solo traveler, since there was a lot of choice across several categories of dishes with the portion size being adapted to the number of people at the table. And my meal was absolutely delicious, and good value compared to tasting menus in Europe, Australia, or the US since the prices were in Thai Baht, the local currency.

Step 8: I did a bit of additional planning about sights I had missed in Bangkok on my first visit, and spots to check out around Chiang Mai. My list ended up being broken down into “EAT” and “DO” sections, with some vague entries like “temples” and “get massages!” along with specific items, like visiting the Jim Thompson house in Bangkok.

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Mexico (5 weeks)

The part that was planned ahead of time was my time in each general area, as I did book a few flights within Mexico to get between different regions. I actually did pretty much nothing though in terms of planning organized tours in advance, although I did hire guides on the spot at several tourist attractions and joined a lot of day tours that I arranged through the hostels where I stayed. There were also several important religious celebrations taking place over my trip, so I planned to be in proximity to where I could celebrate on the pertinent dates.

Want more details on the nitty gritty of planning a solo trip? Something else you’re still unclear about that you’d like me to cover in a future blog post? Let me know in the Comments!

Before you go…

The amount of advance planning I do depends on all sorts of factors, from how I’m feeling about a trip to how much planning I think I need to do to get the most out of a destination. Your level of planning will probably vary as well from trip to trip, depending on how much free time you have, your motivation, and how important you think prior planning will be to your enjoyment when you travel. Regardless of how much activity planning and restaurant scouring you decide to do, there are some non-negotiables for me when it comes to solo travel:

Know how to get from your arrival point to your accommodation. Please, please, please don’t wait until after you’ve arrived to realize that you have no clue how to get from the airport or train station to your hotel. It’s much less stressful to have a plan in advance, and you can’t always count on having helpful information desks accessible (or with English-speaking staff on hand). Plus, one of the best ways to keep safe as a solo traveller is to know where you are headed – or at least look like you do – at all times.

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Send your detailed itinerary and a scan of your passport to a trusted friend or family member. It’s always good to have a copy of your travel plans with someone who is not traveling with you.  Especially if you go off on your own, like I did on the hike in Liechtenstein pictured above.  Hopefully it won’t need to be accessed, but it’s good to have someone with those details just in case.

Print hard copies of all of these details. Technology is wonderful, but it doesn’t always work when we need it most. Be sure to have your accommodation confirmation and directions on how to arrive there in hard copy, as well as a copy of your itinerary and a photocopy of the main page of your passport. I usually keep a copy in my purse and also in one of my carry-on bags so everything is duplicated.

Of course, while these three things are especially important for solo travel, they are not the only steps I recommend to prepare for travel. Check out my Pre-Trip Travel Checklist for more on how you can be best prepared by the time you arrive.

And for some additional safety tips to keep in mind before you go and as you travel, check out these Essential Tips from The Blonde Abroad (which are aimed at solo female travellers, but really good advice for everyone!)

On the road…

I have a few final words to the wise for the time you’re actually on your solo trip, so you can make the most of your time away:

Trust your instincts. You already know when a situation doesn’t feel quite right or something is just ‘off’ about a place. Or a person walks into your train car or sits next to you at a bar and you feel instantly on edge. Especially as a solo traveler, don’t be afraid to walk away from an uncomfortable situation, even if you’ll look silly in the process. Feeling silly for a moment trumps compromising your safety. Every time.

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Do what you *want* to do, not what you feel like you *should* be doing. This is a trap that a lot of travelers fall into, not just ones adventuring on their own. There is probably a list for your chosen travel destination of “must see places” or “must have experiences.” Those are great places to start your planning, but don’t feel compelled to do something just because everyone else is too. Sometimes my first hours in a new place have been walking the strip malls in the local neighborhood because that is all I felt up for doing, instead of heading to a top tourist attraction. Or passing up an outdoor adventure an hour-long bus ride away that sounded amazing to have a quiet day in town instead. It’s okay, even if the thing you feel like you should be doing (but don’t want to in the moment) is something you’ve already planned for.

Check in with yourself as you go. It’s a good idea to consciously touch base with your own travel desires every few hours or daily on your solo trip.

  • Are you feeling too planned and want more open time to wander?
  • Feel lonely and want to book an extra organized tour or guide at a specific sight?
  • Want some down time in a green space reading a book on your own?

Don’t be afraid to deviate from any previous plan you might have had – being able to change your plan at a moment’s notice is one of the advantages of solo travel. This is your chance to make adjustments so you enjoy your time even more!

 

Solo travel can sound intimidating, but really it’s an opportunity to customize a trip exactly to your own travel style and feelings in the moment. It’s a hugely liberating feeling to be able to make all of the travel decisions based on what you alone want, and is a great way to connect with those desires. And it also is not limited to being on your own every minute of every day. Solo travel for most is really a blend of organized activities and tours that take place with others along with sightseeing and wandering alone. So take it one step at a time and get out there!

What was the hardest part for you before you took your first solo trip? Or what things still frighten you, even after reading this step-by-step guide? I’ll address any concerns you still have personally.

And do you have any solo travel tips I haven’t already mentioned? Fire away in the Comments below!

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Travel Superlatives of 2016

Travel Superlatives of 2016

As I reflect back on this past year in travel, there are so many memories that bubble up. Unexpected adventures, delicious meals, and shared laughter with friends. And of course, also rushing through airports, lost luggage, or barely making the last train. About half my trips were with friends or family, and the other half as a solo traveler.

Travel is definitely not all rainbows and unicorns, but as someone told me once about travel: It’s either a great experience . . . or a great story! I end this year with quite a few of both, and heaps of gratitude for all of the adventures I was privileged to experience – the good, the bad, and the random.

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Most New Countries in a Year: 11! (and a full passport to boot)

I didn’t set out this year to visit a ton of new countries, it just sort of happened. Looking back, the new countries I made it to in Europe in 2016 – 6 – is actually quite similar to the 5 new European countries I explored last year (this year it was Albania, Bulgaria, Greece, Liechtenstein, Romania, & Sweden for those of you keeping track). Ditto for Asia. Last year, I went to 2 new countries, and this year the same: Indonesia & Singapore. What really put me over the top was making it to Costa Rica for the first time on my family vacation back in August, and also getting a chance to explore 2 new countries in the Middle East with my sister this December: Oman & United Arab Emirates. Thanks, family!!

FYI, my American readers, the US phased out adding extra pages to passports at the end of 2015, so if your passport becomes full like mine, you’ll have to renew it to travel even if it’s not expiring yet. The good news is that when you renew, you can choose the longer length for no additional cost. Obviously something on my immediate to-do list in the new year 😉

Hardest Time Finding a Restaurant: Berat, Albania

When you’re traveling in Albania, you seek out Berat. Its old city is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and it is known as The Town of a Thousand Windows for the beautifully window-filled view you get of the hillside from the river. Many people stay in Berat overnight, but it can also be visited as a day trip during a weekend in Tirana like I did with friends back in May. We got an early start, and spent a good part of the morning hiking uphill and exploring the Berat Castle. Well after noon, we felt that we had taken in the sights, but had not been particularly inspired by the food choices inside the castle walls. And we saw one place right outside the walls, but it was a giant eatery with tour buses parked outside, so didn’t seem like our style either. Instead we found the restaurant that everyone had been raving about online as being the spot locals prefer, and started to make our way in that direction.

There were four of us including me, and with several people consulting the maps on their phone, we thought that surely we could find our way to this nearby spot quite quickly, as we were starting to get quite hungry. We started down the one hill connecting the castle entrance to town and it kept looking like a wiggle down the next side street would lead us to the restaurant entrance. I would pop down one alleyway, certain it was finally the right one, and then reappear a minute later dejected that there was no eatery present. Eventually, we made it to the bottom of the hill to town and close to the car, but let’s be real – we were committed to finding the restaurant at this stage! We drove a bit to side streets where an alternate online map placed the taverna. Then we returned to the bottom of the hill where we had started, and asked some locals passing by if they knew how to get there. Finally, after what was probably *way* too much time floundering on our own, we called the restaurant. The owner, being so gracious at what was now probably around 2pm, actually came to fetch us.

We were able to follow him in his car on a meandering path that brought us . . . to a restaurant right at the top of the path right by the castle! I think it had been hidden by the hilltop and the large restaurant with the tourist buses, but of course we had been right there at the beginning. Fortunately all of our efforts were rewarded, with a massive, delectable feast of Albanian food with a Greek twist at Taverna Lazaro.

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Place I Made the Most Friends on the Road: Waiting in Line for a Kebab in Berlin

I usually make the most friends on the road when I am traveling solo, and this year is no exception. In the end, I actually had relatively few trips when I was in a hostel-type accommodation, which is where I would normally meet other travelers. And although I did walking tours and other group activities on my own, it was actually in a quest for food that I found the most kindred spirits. Nothing brings people together quite like shared queuing, and on this particular night in Berlin, I was set on getting what is probably the city’s most famous kebab. The line was moving along at a decent clip, but then the stand ran out of supplies (!) and had to re-stock. So what was looking like a 20-minute wait became closer to an hour, and I had a chance to gain some insight on the city from two other expats: a Spaniard living and working in Berlin and a Taiwanese student studying there. More proof that you never know who’ll you meet on the road.

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Best Wine Tasting: Argiolas in Cagliari (Sardinia, Italy)

One of the best parts of living in Europe is the wine. Grapes tend to be very local, and grown and processed in a way to complement the typical food of a region. I’ve done my fair share of wine tasting all over Europe in 2016 (and even a bit in Australia this year), but there was one experience that was especially memorable and stands out from the rest – doing a tour and tasting at Argiolas Winery in Sardinia, a bit outside of Cagliari. Although I’ve gone on many wine tours, I felt like I actually learned about their specific techniques and how they differ from other wineries. And the tasting itself was just fabulous. My friend and I had one person talking us through the wines, accompanied by a bit of local food. All of the staff was so friendly and knowledgeable, and the wines were so delicious, that we didn’t even realize until we had finished the last wine that we had taken so long our tasting had gone past the winery’s opening hours. Which really, is just a testament to the level of Italian hospitality we received.

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Craziest Hotel Check-in: Nessebar, Bulgaria

We’ve all been there. The crazy frustration of trying to find your hotel. It should be just around the corner. Or the GPS sends you one direction, but it just doesn’t like the correct route. Or in this case, sends you down a precarious gravel path. “No,” you think, “this can’t be right.” So you try an alternate route – which also turns out to be another gravel path. Finally you give up, and just park the corner in a random corner of the Bulgarian gravel road. And look up. And your friend says, “Hey, doesn’t that look like the picture of our hotel?”

End of story, right? If only… After confirmation from a nearby shop owner that we had indeed arrived at the correct destination, we walk into the building lobby. And there’s no reception. Hmmm….surely there must be staff somewhere, right? A quick pop to the salon downstairs finds it deserted. We call the phone number in the booking confirmation, and no reply. Then the waitress at the on-site restaurant is trying to be helpful, but speaks no English (and we speak no Bulgarian). Finally she directs us to one of the men sunbathing at the pool. My first thought is that it’s because he speaks English, but he actually turns out to be the building’s owner. “Great!” was my first – and misplaced – reaction. After studying the booking confirmation, the owner declares that there is no rental in his building under that description.

Ah, every frequent traveler’s nightmare. They gave away the last room, or the booking never existed in the first place. Images of curling up in the tiny car’s backseat for the night flash through my head, when the owner takes a moment to call the phone number we have on speakerphone. I catch a glance at his phone screen and realize that when he clicked “Send” a name popped up from his phone’s Contact List. As I wonder whether this is a good or bad sign, he quickly hangs up before someone has a chance to answer. He makes another call. This time it finally sounds promising, and I hear what sounds like “Italien” and I start gesturing saying, yes, I have an Italian phone number I used for my booking, it’s us. Does that mean we finally have a place to stay?? And yes, we have a room! He knows this person, and she is going to come and show us to our rooms. Imagine our relief when the room is just as expected, and even has a complimentary bottle of Bulgarian wine to greet us. As the door clicks behind her, out comes the joint, palpable, audible sigh. We’re finally checked in.

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Most People Visited in a Country I’ve Never Lived: 8 in Singapore

I visit friends in my travels often, and in fact, having a friend living in a foreign country is the best reason to get there for a visit! It’s great having a reason to explore a new, unexpected destination, and was how I picked several of my travel destinations this past year. Usually I travel to visit a single friend or family, with London as my usual exception, although most of my friends who live there I met in Milan. So it was quite random when I realized as I planned my November travel that I actually know quite a few people living in Singapore and there was never a better time to go.

There is the close Milan friend and previous around-the-corner neighbor who lives there with her husband and daughter, but may not be staying in Singapore much longer. The Singaporean college friend who I had seen relatively recently when she came to visit Milan during the World Expo last year, but whose days in Singapore are probably numbered as well. And then there’s the high school friend and her Singaporean husband and two children who only recently moved to Singapore. Several of these friends are now what I like to call 3-continent friends – people I’ve spent time with on three different continents. And for me it’s definitely notable to have so many different people from different stages of my life who just happen to all live in the same tiny island nation. While I didn’t know much about Singapore before visiting (other than having a ton of friends to visit), I became obsessed with the Singaporean style of breakfast and Singapore was one of my favorite destinations this year!

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Craziest Adventurous Things I Did:

Pemberton Climbing Trees (Australia) & Walking to Al Sawadi Island and Fort (Oman)

For me being adventurous doesn’t mean having no fear. Being adventurous is being confronted with something scary and/or dangerous, and then going outside of your comfort zone to do it anyway. There were two things in 2016 that really got my adrenaline pumping, both for being ostensibly dangerous, as well as me not really knowing what to expect ahead of time. First, was scaling the Pemberton climbing trees, which involved some incredibly tall trees and not much of a safety net. It was a bit terrifying, but also quite rewarding to reach the tops and take in the expansive views. Read more about the full experience in my post linked above and here.

The second pretty crazy thing I did was on my recent Oman trip with my sister. On the coast north of Muscat, there is a spot called Al Sawadi, with a nearby island and fort not too far off the beach. While there are boats you can pay to take you across, I had read something about being able to *walk* to the island during low tide. We arrived around 4pm and the water was looking quite low, but there was no one else walking across or anyone to ask. After a little bit of a walk when the water reached just up to knee level, we decided to go for it. This is only slightly complicated in Oman by the fact that it is a modest Muslim country where your shoulders and knees should be covered at all times in public. So you’re not just stripping down to your bikini and going for it. But venturing out into the unknown was great – the thrill and exhilaration of not knowing whether we’d be able to make it across, or if we did, how high the water level would rise before we reached the shore. In the end, my zip-off pants only got a little wet, and then we arrived and had the island entirely to ourselves! We hiked in our sport sandals to the top of the fort, took lots of pictures with the cell phones we were brave enough to carry for the journey, and had an even-lower tide for the walk back to where we had left the car, making it back across just as the sun set. An incredible and memorable experience, I’m reliving the excitement just typing about it.

Time Most Worth it to Trust a Stranger: Heading to the Cave at Wadi Khalid, Oman

I’m from New York, so it’s sort of second nature that when a stranger offers to help me out of the blue, my radar goes off and I become super skeptical of everything the person says and suggests. Perhaps it’s not the most open and loving way to live, but that is always my knee-jerk reaction: caution. Fortunately, the day exploring Wadi Khalid in Oman (a series of interconnected water pools and caves in the desert) came far enough into the week-long road trip that I already knew how hospitable Omanis were. Plus, they are so excited to see tourists – especially American ones – that they want you to have an amazing experience so you inspire others to visit when you go home.

As my sister and I were following the vague arrows pointing toward the Wadi’s famous cave, a man in traditional Omani dress fell into step beside us. He told us that he was heading to the cave as well, and as a local, knew the way quite well. My mind at this point was racing with possibilities, but we were just walking in that direction and were outside with plenty of other visitors. At one point I did inquire as to why he was so interested in showing us around, and he revealed that he was a police officer in Muscat and wanted to practice his English. It sounded legit, and again, we were not alone, but it was quite interesting crouching into a dark cave with no signs or directions, blindly following the instincts of a local who had been many times before. Our new Omani friend Said was a great guide, showing us the water source of the wadi, pointing out bats that were hanging from the ceiling just above our heads, and giving us the full experience of the cave. There’s no way my sister and I would have ventured that far alone, and it was just incredible to see the caverns and crevices inside.

Biggest Travel Injury: Stubbed Toe in Abu Dhabi

Anyone who knows me knows that I can be quite clumsy, so an injured toe as my biggest injury of the year is a major accomplishment. Interestingly enough, if I am doing a potentially dangerous activity like rock climbing or cliff diving, I’m quite attentive and tend to emerge unscathed. My biggest injuries ever? Both my broken collarbone and severely injured finger resulted from what was essentially me tripping over my own feet.

Stubbing my toe in Abu Dhabi doesn’t sound serious, but it was quite a wound. Basically, I was walking back to bed after a middle-of-the-night trip to the bathroom, and didn’t realize that one of the stylish chairs with metal legs reached out almost to the edge of the bed. I thought I would have cleared it by a mile, but instead I walked quite decisively forward and essentially sliced my second toe open. So it was more serious (and bloody) than your typical stubbed toe, and it hurt to walk for the next 10 days, as in it was painful taking e-v-e-r-y s-i-n-g-l-e s-t-e-p. But for a year of travel and adventure (and given my lifelong tendency to injure myself weirdly and quite seriously), not too bad at all.

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Travel First: Getting Put Up in a Hotel

Lost luggage? Yes, many times, sometimes for up to several days.

Missed a connecting flight? Of course, but usually with good, alternate options to still get there within a few hours.

Been on an overbooked flight offering vouchers? Plenty of times, but usually when I was in the US traveling for work and had to be somewhere by a certain time, so I’d never taken advantage.

Slept in an airport? Sure, most memorably at the Dallas airport in a snowstorm when I was trying to be there for the first flight back to New York for New Year’s Eve & at the Kuala Lumpur budget terminal (never again!)

Missing a connection and needing to stay in a hotel overnight? That had never happened to me before – until a week ago, so just under the wire to be part of my 2016 travel superlatives. I had just over an hour of transit time at London’s Heathrow Airport, which is cutting it quite close to begin with. Then, as we were lining up to board the bus that would take us to the plane in Milan, the snow started to fall. What?!? It almost never snows in Milan, because it’s usually not quite cold enough. And snow certainly had not been part of the forecast. When the captain announced that there was a long line to de-ice the plane and we would likely be delayed at least 30 minutes, I flagged over a flight attendant to ask about my connection. When he informed me that you need to scan through the transfer desk at Heathrow 35 minutes before your departure time to be allowed on the plane, I knew I was in trouble. In the US, they would likely send information up to the plane about the connecting flight, or at least the crew would be able to phone and request it. For this London connection, I had the sinking feeling that I would be out of luck, which was confirmed when we touched down an hour late.

By the time someone was available to help me at the re-booking desk, the best option was just to take the same early afternoon flight the following day. Spend an unexpected 24 hours in London, catching up with friends and soaking up the holiday atmosphere? If I must…

Most Times Crossing Paths with a Friend – and half the time accidentally!

It’s one thing to plan a lot of travel with a good friend, it’s quite another to have the one person you keep running into at unplanned moments in unexpected cities. Of the 6 times I’ve crossed paths with this one particular friend, our run-ins have spanned 4 cities on 2 continents – and only 2 were arranged in advance! We had planned to be in Bucharest, Romania (where she is from) over the same weekend in early June so she could show me around and we could hang out. Then a few weeks beforehand when her schedule was too busy on a business trip to Milan, a work dinner fell through and she messaged me last minute so we met up for a meal. In August when I was in New York, she messaged me about a last-minute work trip that had also brought her to the city, so we had another unplanned meal together. And then, the very next night on the way to meet another friend, I walked into another restaurant in a completely different part of town. And the first person I see? This same friend! Our 5th meeting of the year was arranged in advance, when I came to London to see the American football (NFL) game with my home team playing. And then on my recent missed connection in London, I messaged this friend to see if she was possibly around. It turned out that about an hour after my message she was actually coming to the same terminal of Heathrow Airport where I was stranded! So we met up for a coffee, and our last in a string of prolific, unexpected run-ins throughout 2016.

 

What were the stand-out moments of your 2016 travel??

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