I can’t stop talking about where to eat in Stavanger, Norway.
How did a city I had never heard of before become the surprise foodie destination of my last two-week European trip?
By far, it was the city that excited me the most for its food and drink offerings. And as I ate and drank my way through, Stavanger, it delivered.
It’s a pretty simple story, really.
Stavanger was a small town through the 1960s when the oil boom hit, and has since grown into one of Norway’s most sophisticated dining scenes, with no shortage of oil executives and business travelers eating lavish meals on their expense accounts – supporting excellent restaurants all around town.
With Stavanger’s proximity to the Lysefjord’s beautiful scenery and famous hikes, it’s likely to be a pass through point for any outdoor adventuring you do in Norway.
Like many other travelers to this region, I passed through Stavanger both coming and going.
The Stavanger dining scene isn’t just serving up great food and drinks, there is some exciting innovation with local and seasonal ingredients that made it a unique experience, not just your standard “good food.” All with a Norwegian twist, of course.
It’s a city I’d go back to, just to eat.
When you do go, here is where you’ll find your best bites and sips:
Meaning “books and booze” (since it also operates as a bar) this spot is filled with quirky and fun décor that makes you feel instantly cozy the moment you walk in the door.
The staff was also super friendly, and served up my favorite coffee in all of Stavanger – and I sampled a lot more than made this list.
Plus, the ultra-moist slice of decadent carrot cake was a great way to treat myself after a cold, rainy morning on the ferry ride back from the Lysefjord.
This spot is actually just around the corner from the previous coffee shop, but has a very different vibe that is light and airy.
There is beautiful décor across multiple levels and bright, open seating. Kokko Kaffebar also serves up great coffee, with a very smooth flavor. Although I did not enjoy my food quite as much, since I found their baked goods to be a bit dry and not as flavorful as other spot.
It is not usually my style to eat at a hotel restaurant – especially one that is a Norwegian chain – but this one is really delicious and it was worth being out of my comfort zone to sample the cuisine here.
26 North offers local “farm & fjord” options daily (an option each from the land and the sea) and what is overall a locally-inspired menu.
There is an appetizer sampler, which is a great way to try traditional Norwegian dishes, especially if you are dining solo like I was.
Even a dish that sounded pretty standard, like the steak I ordered, was both cooked and seasoned incredibly well, and I slowly savored each bite.
I knew from the moment I read about the concept of this restaurant that it was my kind of spot and the experience lived up to my expectation – it was my favorite experience in Stavanger and the best food I ate in all of Norway.
There is no menu, just a talented young chef putting together food based on what is available that day in delicious small courses. Like Uri Buri restaurant in Israel, the server will keep bringing additional courses until you stay “stop.”
And they were all so absolutely delicious:
BBQ crab with cashew cream, celeriac root, grated horseradish, grilled broccolini and mustard, and grilled oat milk bread
Grilled hake with apple cream from the chef’s dad’s garden, kaffir lime zest, and fennel leaves
Grilled fish with perfectly crispy skin and a spicy, rich, deeply flavored shrimp bouillon I couldn’t get enough of
Crispy-skin lamb with blistered carrots and pumpkin seeds
Cheese course
Of course, you can tell them any dietary restrictions at the start, and the dishes will be tailored to you as needed (and don’t worry, the staff and chef speak excellent English).
There is also a comprehensive wine selection, that you can enjoy without the pressure of buying an entire bottle, with the server/sommelier guiding you in wine pairings for that day’s courses.
Egget was a great solo dining destination, with a counter overlooking the open kitchen where you can sit and watch the details of how each dish is prepared and if you’re lucky like I was, make friends with fellow diners.
Also, the price was so reasonable for what I got!
The total bill came out to 1,020 NOK (105 Euros/US$120), with about one quarter of the price for my wine pairings and the remaining three-quarters covering the four courses plus cheese plate.
Located right on the water’s edge, Fisketorget is part fish market (its literal translation) and part restaurant serving up local fish and seafood specialties.
For me, this was Norwegian comfort food in a beautiful locale, with plenty of beer and wine options to pair with your food.
While looking out over the nearby inlet, I enjoyed a giant bowl of Norwegian specialty fiskesuppe for lunch, a hearty fish soup which had delicious flavors and lots of different type of seafood – the perfect cozy indulgence to warm me up on a chilly day.
Although I did not make it to Stavanger’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, RE-NAA, I had a fabulous meal at the slightly less formal version, known as Renaa Matbaren.
Food in Norway tends to be on the pricey side, but if you come for lunch here, there is a great “lunch box” deal with a set starter and dessert, along with a choice of three main dishes.
First, the food is outstanding, with great combinations of cooking techniques to yield delicious flavor and texture combinations that you’ll want to savor for each bite. There is also a great wine list, with many options by the glass to pair with your food.
But the piece of my experience at Renaa Matbaren that put it over the top was the exceptional service.
Although I was dressed for the ferry ride I would take shortly after my meal, I was treated like a queen when I dined there, without any assumptions being made based on my appearance, which was just a wee bit casual:
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In addition to this more casual version and the original Michelin-starred RE-NAA, there is also an Xpress RE-NAA bakery and artisan pizzeria.
You know it’s a great cocktail spot when you come for one post-dinner drink and end up staying for three.
Plus, you make half a dozen friends along the way.
First off, let me say that the cocktails are incredible. Mixing drinks behind the bar is award-winning mixologist Truls Thomsen, who was also fun to chat with (plus, he lived in both the US and Perth, Australia, just like me!).
Many of the cocktail ingredients are in-house concoctions that take several days to prepare, and it shows when you taste the delicious result. Which is why this is where the servers from the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant choose to drink at the end of their shift.
There are also a lot of local spirits and sensibility woven into the cocktail menu here.
Each drink on the menu is displayed along with a different sardine tin, an homage to the now defunct canning industry in Stavanger.
Flavor combinations are locally and historically inspired, with aquavit (a local spirit) as a prominent ingredient in the cocktails.
Which isn’t hard to do because the bar boasts the largest aquavit collection in the region.
This spot could easily thrive in London or New York or Bangkok – but instead you get to enjoy it in Stavanger.
This is Stavanger’s 1st Michelin-starred restaurant and also the older sibling to Renaa Matbaren, where I enjoyed the fabulous three-course lunch mentioned above.
After having tasted the chef’s creations, I’d definitely splurge on a meal at this spot on a return trip to Stavanger. It is 1,600 NOK for the 20-22 course tasting menu (165 Euros/US$190) and then another 1,400 NOK (so almost as much!) for the wine pairings.
One year after RE-NAA earned a Michelin star in 2016, this spot joined it with one of its own.
A sushi omakase experience limited to 10 diners per seating, Sabi Omakase runs about the same price as RE-NAA, at 1495 NOK per person for food and offering wine pairing at the same price, which is approximately 150 Euros/US$175 for each.
Yes, so now you might have just a bit of an idea why I ate so well in Stavanger during my visit.
It was a big reason I loved Norway, and why I’m now recommending it as a top travel destination to anyone who will listen.
Whenever I return to Norway, I’m eager to spend even more time eating my way through the city.
Any other top spots I should check out when I return to Stavanger? What has been your favorite city for eating? Any city that surprised you with its foodie scene?
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Scottsdale Food Guide: Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona
Disclaimer: Some (but not all) of the experiences listed here were hosted in partnership with Experience Scottsdale. Food and drink opinions are of course very opinionated – and completely my own!
As I looked into the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale – and there are a ton – one question kept crossing my mind: Why is the food in Scottsdale, Arizona so good?
The answer that came to light over a week spent in town and snippets of conversation with servers, restaurateurs, and locals is actually quite simple.
If you’re a chef in the west and want to make a name for yourself, some of the big food cities – like Las Vegas, San Francisco, and Los Angeles – are very expensive and high-risk ventures. So what do you do?
Open a restaurant in Scottsdale!
To incubate your idea, tweak your dishes and concept, and build up an even stronger proposal for making the jump to a bigger city foodie scene.
And Scottsdale just happens to be THE DESTINATION for a lot of these restaurants, as talented chefs looking to make a name for themselves feed you excellent food along the way.
Of course, not all chefs are looking to leave.
The local food movement has also been taking hold in this area, with chefs using locally sourced produce from the nearly year-round growing seasons and showcasing Arizona ingredients.
Even Arizona locals in the area – who don’t live in Phoenix or Scottsdale already – know that if they are looking for a great meal, Old Town Scottsdale is the place to go.
It doesn’t cover all parts of the city (the lovely Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows where I stayed for part of my trip is a bit outside its borders) but most of the outstanding eating establishments with the best food in Scottsdale you’ll find within its confines.
My overall impression eating and drinking my way through Old Town Scottsdale is that is does basic, simple cuisine and upscale casual really well. (I had one fancy meal and honestly wasn’t wowed by it.)
There are also a shockingly large number of delicious bars in Old Town Scottsdale.
In walking distance of Old Town Scottsdale, you can drink your way through breweries, wine tasting rooms (including an urban wine trail!), a distillery, and multiple acclaimed cocktail spots.
Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale
Organized alphabetically in each section – one for restaurants and another for bars – my picks for the best restaurants and best bars in Old Town Scottsdale are not mutually exclusive.
Of course some of these Scottsdale foodie spots had delicious coffee or cocktails to go with their incredible bites, which I’ve noted below.
The places I’d seek out just for their beverages though – from coffee bars to cocktails bars – are listed in the next section (although some of those spots also serve food).
I did a ton of research, asked plenty of locals, and used my traveler sixth sense to seek out the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale and eat as much as I could of the best food in Scottsdale during my visit.
And even then, not everywhere I ate wowed me enough to make it into this post.
You would not believe the amount of eating I did in a week – this is the short list Scottsdale Food Guide with the places that I am still dreaming about back at home!
Now for the most delicious Scottsdale bites I enjoyed over a week in town:
Not only is it cozy and lively on a random weeknight several years in, the welcoming vibe is backed up by the quality of the food and drink.
In addition to some creative craft cocktails with unusual ingredients like kiwifruit simple syrup and tobacco bitters, there are also half a dozen barrel-aged cocktails (and I don’t think I’ve ever seen more than one or two on a single menu before).
Foodwise there are upscale versions of traditional dishes, including interesting combinations like pork belly pastrami, amaro meatloaf, and the pan-seared scallops I enjoyed with a cola gastrique.
While all of the food dishes were excellent, it was one of the appetizers that stole the show for me: “The Original Chopped Salad,” a dish so famous it has its own Facebook page.
Originally crafted at the now shuttered Cowboy Ciao and known then as the “Stetson Chopped Salad,” this combination of pearl couscous, Asiago cheese, arugula, pepitas, dried currants, dried corn, smoked salmon, and a buttermilk dressing was shockingly good and quite memorable, with so many layers of flavor and textures combining to form a bite that made me swoon and feel as if I was eating the best salad I’ve had in my life. And I’m not even a salad person!
There’s a reason this chopped salad has a following. I’d go back to Citizen Public House anyway, but I’d *rush* to go back for this dish.
That is the bicycle that I rode here – one of the many you can borrow for free when you stay at The Bespoke Inn!
The tacos at this Mexican restaurant definitely hit the spot, although were not as memorable for me as the appetizers and drinks.
I’d come back in a heartbeatthough for either of the appetizers I sampled.
First, they do a version of Grilled Street corn that is topped with the more common toppings of cotija cheese and lime, then pushed from good to an all out umami-bomb by the addition of crushed flamin’ hot cheetos, which provided just the right amount of crunch and MSG-addictiveness.
Of course, the corn was not to be outdone by what is possibly the signature dish – the Brussels sprout nachos.
I hated brussel sprouts as a kid and love them as an adult, and this version has nachos (yum), topped with brussel sprouts (I’m already sold), and then pushed over to top by a fried egg that makes this feel incredibly indulgent – even as you eat your veggies.
The incredible food spread was then washed down with some excellent cocktails.
In my case, the prickly pear margarita which was just the right amount of tart and sweet. Between the distinctive flavor and familiar bright pink hue, I felt transported back to my travels in Malta, where prickly pear grows on the side of the road with abandon.
There are also sno-cone margaritas (!!) that I hear are more sweet, and come in watermelon lime and mango habanero flavors.
Any place that serves breakfast until 3pm is my kind of place.
While all of the dishes sounds simple enough (and quite healthy), the ingredients are so fresh that it really delivers on flavor and you forget it’s supposed to be good for you.
I ordered the innocuous sounding breakfast sandwich with fried egg, avocado, cheddar, and chicken sausage on a flax whole wheat bun.
Anytime I read the words flax or whole wheat, I usually high-tail it in the opposite direction, but I didn’t even remember what was in the bun because the flavors were so buttery and unctuous as I slowly savored each bite.
I enjoyed it with the equally good house-made lavender lemonade, and there are plenty of other fruity concoctions as well as cocktails, wine, and beer.
Known as the “veggie whisperer,” Badman delivers on the promise by highlighting some of the freshest produce from Arizona’s many growing seasons.
Yes, the menu is vegetable-forward but dishes with fish and meat are just as delicious.
Standouts from the vast spread I enjoyed on my recent visit included a citrus-cured salmon with buttermilk, cucumber, and flower petals and a simple dish of local fresh apricots with ricotta, almonds, and balsamic honey.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re having trouble getting a dinner reservation in the wake of the James Beard award win, head next door to FnBar, where you can also indulge in the full dinner menu from 5pm on.
The burgers at Rehab Burger Therapy have been named the best burger in Arizona many times over – a well-deserved accolade, by the way – but it is really the whole experience that made this a standout spot.
From the décor to amazingly friendly service from enthusiastic, passionate server Salyna to all of the amazing food combinations that make its way into every burger they serve.
In addition to the creative burger concoctions, you can also choose your burger size (small for me), bun type (I got the pretzel bun), side dish (I got sweet potato tots), and rehab sauce of choice (garlic sriracha aioli for me).
On Salyna’s recommendation, I ordered the Spicy Mac n’ Cheese burger that also was my favorite, and overflowing with the comfort of mac n’cheese while still delivering strong flavors from the sauce and burger itself.
As part of a food-curious group, I also got to sample several of the other burgers, with the poblano being my second-favorite for the intense flavor of the poblano pepper that was great paired with the beef.
In addition to our main burgers, our group also ordered the Elvis burger, which has been their best seller for 7 years, and combines some of the The King’s favorite flavors, with the burger coming on a chocolate chip banana bun with peanut butter, chocolate bacon, and caramelized bananas. Yes, it is a savory burger that also involves PB, but it’s not as weird as you might think.
Don’t get me wrong, the toasted marshmallow latte was divine, but this bakeshop is squarely in my food category for all of its amazing traditional baked goods and twists on some classics.
I was fortunate to visit the week of Sweet Dee’s first birthday celebration, and got to enjoy a host of birthday-themed treats, including mini cupcakes and the over-the-top birthday cake doughnut.
Yes, they took birthday cake THEN battered and fried it into a doughnut!
While I was busy indulging my sweet tooth, I heard about their savory doughnut.
Basically it is an eggs benedict in doughnut form! Inside the doughnut is a poached egg, Canadian bacon, and house hollandaise.
While I didn’t have enough of an appetite to justify ordering the savory doughnut too (although I did consider it!) between the incredibly baked items I did enjoy and the incredibly friendly staff, this spot is top of my foodie list for my next trip to Old Town Scottsdale.
They say that both food and service are important to a restaurant experience, but if you only get one, good service is the quality that gets you returning.
I’m happy to report that in the case of The Mission Old Town – like fellow restaurant The Fat Ox listed below – they delivered both excellent food and outstanding service.
It’s not often that when I go wandering in search of the ladies room, that there is someone who immediately spots me and walks me all the way to the door to ensure I find it.
It was the little touches that elevated my service experience at The Mission from great to exceptional.
In addition to the wonderful service throughout the meal, the food was delicious, which is the part that landed this spot on my list of best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale.
As for the food the most memorable bites for me were the excellently-executed table-side guacamole and the grilled street corn with a tangy, spicy sauce that was addictive.
The drinks were also incredible, and The Mission treated our group to small tastes of several of their best ones.
The House Specialty called “The Missionary” was a perfect – and colorful – mix of their house margarita and red sangria. There was my full drink, the shockingly creamy avocado margarita, which I’ve never seen or had before and thoroughly enjoyed. Then at the end of the meal, a creamy dessert cocktail came along with churros and dipping sauce, which was a perfect end to a stellar Scottsdale food experience.
I don’t usually frequent restaurants at hotels other than where I’m staying, but there were a few good reasons to seek out Zuzu Restaurant anyway.
This spot wasn’t on my list for savory dishes, but I am so glad that the timing worked out to meet fellow travel blogger Alley for brunch as well as dessert at Zuzu.
I ordered what sounded like the most typical local breakfast dish, called planks and eggs, with sweet potato “planks,” pulled short ribs, a fried egg, cotija cheese, lime crema, and crispy fried tortilla strips.
To my surprise, the dish also came with a soft flour tortilla as a side too, which might have been the best flour tortilla I’ve *ever* had.
It was clearly made with love and had such great flavor even though it was basically plain bread.
But the original draw to this spot was the dessert that beyond lived up to its name – The “Show Stopper” Shake.
Even though I had seen pictures online before I arrived, this shake is a whole lot more than a milkshake and is even bigger in person than I expected.
The flavor combinations change monthly, and I was lucky enough to be there for a Hawaiian-themed shake shortly after my Hawaii travels. Sure, there was a milkshake, but mine was also topped with a pineapple upside down cake, passion fruit tart, and orange creamsicle – plus a side of chopped fruit, coconut macaroon, and orange gelatin slices.
Definitely order this giant and fun concoction with a friend . . . or several!
While the service was sadly just mediocre, the food was so good that it was a fabulous final food experience to end my time in Scottsdale.
Best Bars in Old Town Scottsdale
The word “bar” can mean lots of things. This round-up shares my picks for the top bars in Old Town Scottsdale, from coffee bars to brewery bars to wine bars to cocktail bars.
So whatever your drinking preferences, there’s something for you below:
Cartel had the best coffee I enjoyed in my week in Old Town Scottsdale. They take their coffee quite seriously, and my cortado had rich coffee flavor and aroma with a super smooth milky topping that was great for refueling right in the heart of town.
While I was on my way to lunch when I popped in and was unable to linger, the space was inviting with long tables perfect for catching up with a friend or hunkering down to get some work done.
For a craft brewery, there is a huge available selection of in-house brews to order at the bar. And if you’re indecisive (or just enjoy trying a lot of different beers) like me, you can order any 4 beers as a flight.
The iconic beer here is the Desert Rose cactus ale, made with prickly pear from local cacti.
While sold out as you can see on the menu sheet, our server Parker was kind enough to give us an impromptu tour of the operation and a sample of the next batch of Desert Rose, which while not quite ready yet, is already delicious.
While I visited all 4 winery tasting rooms that are on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, LDV (Lawrence Dunham Vineyards) Winery tasting room was my definite favorite.
And the only one that made my list of top bars in Old Town Scottsdale.
Like the other wine trail spots, LDV Winery has its actual vineyards a several hour drive away in the Wilcox area of Arizona, with a similar elevation to Argentina. Especially since was my first wine tasting stop in Old Town Scottsdale, I was fortunate to have Tasting Room Manager Sherylann as an excellent guide to their history and selections.
My top sips were some of the red wines – a 2013 Grenache (which I bought) and both the 2013 and 2014 Petite Syrah, even though the two vintages tasted a bit different from one another.
Another reason to be sure to stop in – delicious regular and infused local olive oils and vinegars that are available for sale, and also to taste!
Merkin Vineyards has only had a presence in Old Town Scottsdale since March of 2019, and unlike the four wineries on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, this spot is more of a wine bar than a tasting room.
Apparently MJ Keenan only recently discovered that he is descended from Northern Italian winemakers, and is embracing that heritage as he grows mostly Italian (and Spanish and French) grape varietals.
As part of a hosted event, I was lucky enough to share sips with three fellow travel bloggers. So after a couple of rounds, we had basically tried most of the available selections!
My top sips were the bold red wines – including the Garnacha and Tempranillo – along with some of the blends.
There were also some really delicious platters of food, with simple ingredients packing huge flavor in true Italian style.
It is both for the wine and incredibly flavorful dishes available that Merkin Vineyards was one of my favorite bars in Old Town Scottsdale.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While Merkin Vineyards does not officially offer wine flights, you can create your own wine tasting if you go at less crowded times on weekdays before 5pm.
This wine bar in Old Town Scottsdale is also a family affair, with Maynard’s dad’s farm growing much of the produce for the simple and delectable bites available.
All enjoyed to one of Maynard’s eight personally curated music playlists for the venue – featuring, of course, lots of tracks from Tool.
Located on the Second Story of a building in the heart of Old Town, this is one of the bars in Old Town Scottsdale that hits the spots at the end of the night.
I don’t usually order off-menu for my first cocktail at a new place, but I was feeling feisty and – as is the sign of a great bar – my relatively vague instructions led to a delicious ginger whiskey sour.
I liked the balance of spicy and smooth so much that I sipped especially slowly to make it last.
Second Story also has quite an elegant feel when you walk inside, which I wasn’t expecting.
The other part I did not realize until I went is that it is basically a whiskey- and bourbon-centric bar, with over 300 whiskeys on premises.
They also have a food menu, with full dinner options as well as happy hour bites.
One Place Outside of Old Town Scottsdale Worth the Trek
Trek is a bit of an exaggeration as this spot is a mere 2 miles from the waterfront in Old Town Scottsdale, and will take less than 10 minutes in a car and under $10 by ride share if you don’t have a vehicle of your own.
It’s not the only place I ate at outside of Old Town, but it’s the only one I’d go back to.
I was still feeling a bit hungry after one of the evening events for Bloghouse Scottsdale (I have a big appetite, what can I say?) and this restaurant was close to where I was staying at the Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows.
You can tell a lot about a restaurant based on how they greet a solo female diner, and at The Fat Ox it was done just the right way – business as usual.
The hosts at the stand were gracious and welcoming, and the whole restaurant was buzzing with lively conversation, so I happily strolled to one of the few empty spots at the bar.
After 3 years of living in Italy, I am always a bit skeptical of going to an Italian restaurant in the US, but I was pleasantly surprised at how good the food was.
I ordered the Malloreddus Lamb Verde, a seasonal fresh pasta dish with a perfect balance of flavors and textures between the lamb, olives, pecorino cheese, mint, and chopped almonds .
Even though the panna cotta was a little on the sweet side for me overall, the fruity foam and crunch with the garnish on top made for a delicious bite as well.
Bartender Brian provided excellent service and conversation (no, he didn’t know I was a travel blogger until the end of the meal) and he perfectly crafted the fun-named “Sage Against the Machine” cocktail for me, with tequila, sage-infused agave, and a lambrusco (Italian sparkling red wine) float that I enjoyed with my dishes.
Even if you’re staying in Old Town Scottsdale, which is a few miles away, it is definitely worth the trip to enjoy a meal here.
And be sure that whenever you plan your trip to Scottsdale, come hungry!
Looking to book a room in Scottsdale? Check out these great spots!
Bespoke Inn – A splurge & my favorite place I stayed in Old Town
Are there any questions about the Scottsdale food scene that I haven’t answered yet? What spots on this Scottsdale Food Guide are your favorites? Any other recommendations of restaurants or bars I should try on my next visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.
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How to Spend a Foodie Weekend in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania
Philadelphia is steeped in history and there are so many historical sights (Liberty Bell, anyone?) to enjoy when you go. If you’re only there for a weekend, it may be hard to fit everything into your schedule that you’d like to do.
For someone like me who’s been to Philadelphia countless times though – from a road trip with my grandparents when I was little to visiting my sister and cousins who went to university there – the typical tourist trail was not the enticement. Honestly, I had coined my recent trip as a “foodie weekend in Philadelphia” because the principal inspiration for the visit was to check out the local restaurant scene.
Even for someone who likes food as much as I do, eating *all* day long is pretty impossible, so my friend and I had a short list of places to explore in between meals. Between my frequent visits and her having lived there for 6 years, this was really some of the last few things neither of us had done before.
I honestly had never heard of this spot before planning this trip, but it is one of the most unique art museums I’ve ever visited, along with Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which I also loved. The Barnes Foundation art is displayed just as it was when its patron was alive, in room after room with whimsical designs and interspersed with antique utilitarian objects with artistic beauty.
And the collection is filled with more Renaissance masterpieces than you may have ever seen in one location before. The museum used to be in Philadelphia’s suburbs, a subject of controversy when it was moved, but is now easily accessible on the city’s museum row.
TIP! This is a pricey visit, but not only did I think it was completely worth it, you can also get discounts by becoming a Barnes Foundation member or bundling admission with other Philadelphia attractions with either the Philadelphia Pass or the Philadelphia City Pass.
Did you know that Philadelphia is home to the oldest, continuously inhabited residential street in America? Despite its historical roots, and my many previous visits to Philly, I actually learned about this spot from Instagram! I probably would have made it here sooner if Instagram had existed during my previous visits to the city, but was so glad to explore this block of houses this time around.
TIP! Various events happen throughout the year and guided tours are available Friday to Sunday and on Thursdays during summer. Options are listed HERE.
An outdoor market covering many blocks, the stands are also interspersed with brick-and-mortar shops selling Italian goodies. Stop by the Italian Market Visitor Center for a map and some helpful guidance as to which spots to check out and come hungry so you can eat your way through. And pick up some goodies to take home with you.
TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Philadelphia Magic Gardens (see below).
TIP! It was accidental that I stumbled upon the annual Italian Market Festival the one weekend I happened to be in town, but it was filled with vendors and music and all sorts of entertainment, including the absolutely insane Grease Pole Climbing competition:
Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens has only been open to the public since 2008, so this was actually my first visit to the city since it opened. Artist Isaiah Zagar had been beautifying this section of the South Street neighborhood since the 1960s, turning an eclectic combination of objects like tiles and glass bottles into a giant outdoor art installation with winding passageways and stairs linking different sections.
It is quite the experience to stroll through it all, this is definitely one of those places you need to see for yourself!
TIP! There are timed tickets that are sold beginning a month ahead of time. I visited on a Sunday in May and was only able to get tickets for about an hour after I waited in line, so if you are on a tight schedule or it is peak tourist season, I’d recommend buying tickets in advance.
TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Italian Market (see above).
There are beautiful murals all over Philadelphia as part of this revitalization project. If you go to the website linked above, you can download an easy-to-navigate map showing the location of the different artworks. I did not follow the trail, but if you are strolling the city and keeping your eyes open, you’re likely to spot quite a few of these to appreciate as I did.
This coffee spot is very fancy about its beans and blends, and although its only been around since 2010, has racked up national accolades for its coffee roasting, barista skills, and cold brew coffee. The blend I sampled was good although not my favorite, but it was a solid sip to go with the definite hipster vibe at the Elixr Center City location, one of three outposts in the city.
This is a Philadelphia chain that is popping up in several American cities, but with good reason – the coffee here is delicious! There are 5 locations across Philadelphia (I visited the one in Dilworth Plaza) and it served my favorite coffee of my visit. There are great espresso-based coffee drinks that are not too acidic, so just the way I like it.
Chinese food is a must on any foodie weekend in Philadelphia, and this is one of the few highly-rated spots outside of Chinatown, and very close to the Barnes Foundation (see above), which is how I ended up here. Although the space is basic and it’s located on a strip mall stretch, there were some very delicious bites.
For dim sum, there are plenty of options, and if you’re indecisive like I can be, they also offer a dim sum sampler. And you know they’re serious about their food when the waitress patiently explains which dipping sauce goes with which dim sum item, which appealed to the sensibility I developed living in Italy – that there is one best way that food is intended to be consumed for maximum enjoyment.
TIP! All that said, I’ve enjoyed even better dim sum in Philly’s Chinatown, and would only seek out this spot if you’ll be in the area anyway.
This spot has fun flavor combinations iced like your typical donut, but what the staff recommended to me was the freshly fried original style dipped into a choice of 3 toppings: cookies and cream, cinnamon brown sugar, and strawberry lavender. It was so good to have the piping hot, yeasty, freshly fried donut that I would probably order this one again on any return visit. I’ve also heard great things about their wings, but I visited earlier in the morning and they weren’t serving them yet.
TIP! Go at or after 11am to sample their fried chicken wings with your donuts.
Benedicts here range from more traditional versions with crab cakes or smoked salmon to a short rib benedict, root vegetable benedict, and chicken-and-waffles benedict option. Even more elaborate are the flavored french toasts like pecan pie, salted caramel banana, or the ever-tempting cookie dough stuffed french toast. This wasn’t blow-my-mind amazing, but the food is very good, and it is worth going for the variety and unusual combinations you’ve probably never seen on another brunch menu anywhere else!
TIP! Expect a wait, although the earlier you go after they open, the faster you’ll get seated.
The food here is both beautiful and delicious and is such a great value for the haute cuisine quality of the dishes coming out of the kitchen, and was a memorable first meal of our foodie weekend in Philadelphia. The signature Amish chicken (or half-chicken) is fantastic, and was a highlight of the evening – and this is from someone who doesn’t usually order chicken out at a restaurant!
Besides the one big dish, my friend and I just divided some small plates, which were really exceptional bites and beautifully plated. The cocktails were well-balanced and delicious, and there was a very good selection of wines by the glass. I thought it would be an older, stuffier crowd, but it turned out to be a mix that included a lot of young professionals and very friendly, approachable, and helpful wait staff to guide us along the way. They definitely earned their many accolades, including a 2017 James Beard award for the chef.
How to Reserve
Option 1: By phone, 90 days in advance
Option 2: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time
Option 3: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant at any point
→ I made plans less than 60 days in advance, so after not finding good options online, I called and was able to get a Friday night reservation at 7:30pm around 45 days ahead of time.
One of the first high-end dining destinations featuring Israeli cuisine, this restaurant was THE REASON for my Philadelphia foodie weekend. Zahav has made it to Eater’s list of the “38 Essential Restaurants in America” for all four years the list has been compiled, which is probably a footnote compared to some of its other accolades. Dishes are available a la carte or with the Taste of Zahav offering small plates, salads, and a large fish or meat or vegetable dish from the coals for $48 per person.
But at just a little more pricewise, what you really want to do while you’re here is enjoy the $56 Chef’s tasting with the Chef Solomonov’s signature pomegranate-glazed lamb shoulder, one of my best bites of recent memory. Even the rice has detailed touches, and it was all so perfect together. You definitely want to eat here on a foodie weekend in Philadelphia – or any trip to the city, really!
TIP! I recommend snagging a reservation on the earlier side if you can, otherwise trying your luck in person on the day, as the most popular dishes (the lamb shoulder!) will sell out nightly around 7:15pm – or even earlier – since so many people order it.
TIP! I’ve done plenty of wine tasting in Israel, and while Zahav’s wine list boasts excellent Israeli options, I found the Israeli wines to be a bit over-priced and the lesser-known Lebanese Bekaa Valley selections to be much better value for a delicious bottle.
How to Reserve
Option 1: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time
Option 2: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant to likely be added to a wait list
Option 3: Be a walk-in on the evening you’d like to dine.
→ You can put your name down on the walk-in list around 4:30pm, even though the restaurant does not open until 5pm. One option is to stick around and eat right when they open at 5. The other option (which I took advantage of) is to put your name down, go do other things around town, and come back when most of the seats turn over between 7:00-7:30pm. Since it’s just a running wait list all night, be sure to let the host or hostess know your plans and give them another heads up when you return. My friend and I arrived back a few minutes after 7pm and got seats overlooking the open kitchen within 5 minutes.
TIP! Between 4:40 and 7:00pm, I stopped by Elfreth’s Alley (see above) and then Sassasfras Bar (see below). Another nearby option to enjoy yourself while you wait for a later dinner time is the even closer, historical City Tavern that still brews old time beer recipes from the time of Founding Fathers, so if you’re more of a beer fan (or just curious like I will be when I return to Zahav to eat again!) it’s another convenient option.
I visited in summertime, and Capogiro was definitely recommended to me most often in terms of ice cream or gelato places around Philadelphia. Although it was not quite as good as my Favorite Gelato Places in Italy, Capogiro serves a delicious gelato made in the traditional Italian style and was some of the best I’ve had outside of Europe.
TIP! Some flavors were better than others (the pistachio was great!) so I recommend trying a few before deciding what flavor combination to order.
The Franklin Mortgage and Investment Company was a front for America’s largest alcohol bootlegging operation during Prohibition, and the space operates these days as a speakeasy. Travel + Leisure even mentions it in their article about Philadelphia being a foodie destination. There’s now an “Upstairs Bar” that is tiki-themed, which is where most people head, although the cocktails there were a bit hit or miss.
The real fun is at the speakeasy downstairs, with pretty interesting drink combinations and the dark, windowless vibe you’d expect from a speakeasy.
TIP! There is one bouncer for both levels, who will point you to the Tiki Bar unless you know to specifically ask about the speakeasy.
TIP! The wait doesn’t tend to be terribly long, and the bouncer can give you a pretty accurate idea of how long to expect.
Close to Zahav (see ‘Dinner’ section above), this was a good place to spend time before dinner, and is a bar worth seeking out in its own right. There are innovative cocktails that change seasonally and the bartenders are very accommodating if you want to order a drink off-menu. It’s a pretty laid back vibe for a bar with great cocktails, with sports showing on the many TVs during my visit.
You may find that an AirBNB is not as great a deal as you’ll find in other cities, especially if you want to stay near the center of Philadelphia. There are limited spots available, and your options will be priced accordingly. Look early for the best prices, and this can be a way to get more of a local perspective on the city.
If you’ve never tried AirBNB before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!
This is my go-to website for finding great deals, and there is often a generous cancellation policy with bookings. You can sort options by ratings or price and get a sense of what is available on your dates. Search Booking.com Now
My foodie obsession to eat in Copenhagen? Smørrebrød.
Although I had never heard of smørrebrød before I started planning my Copenhagen visit, it didn’t take much reading to become intrigued even before I went. These open-faced sandwiches sounded to me a lot like the Danish version of Spanish tapas or Venetian cicchetti, and I always jump at the chance to have small bites on the road when I can, because it means sampling more dishes of the local cuisine.
The more I ate smørrebrød and their balance of flavors and textures, the more I wanted to seek out just one more version, sampling yet another new combination to eat in Copenhagen. And the more I wanted to know about the culture surrounding them.
What is Smørrebrød
Not only was smørrebrød listed as the top local food to try, there is an art and science to how each slice is constructed. It’s definitely not your basic open-faced sandwich. It literally means buttered bread, and then anything else can be piled high for that perfect bite.
From there, the only limit to what goes on a smørrebrød is the imagination of the chef, although there is a focus on local ingredients as well as creating a balance of both flavors and textures. And of course the final products should be visually appealing as well.
The smørrebrød I saw most frequently were either seafood or meat based. Copenhagen has been known for its herring for centuries, especially in pickled form, and you’ll see plenty of herring smørrebrød options. There are also tiny shrimp and other types of fresh and smoked fish that are almost always offered. In terms of meat, there were a lot of variations of roast beef with some type of horseradish and also various pates. And if you still have space after both seafood and meat smørrebrød, usually the final traditional smørrebrød you’ll eat in Copenhagen is topped with cheese.
A slice of smørrebrød really is constructed, with the different ingredients built on top of one another into a work of art that also happens to be delicious. Proteins typically get layered first, then are topped by a series of garnishes. These toppings are chosen to add color, crunch, or perhaps moisture via a jam or remoulade.
Just don’t forget to eat these piled-high creations like the Danes do – with a fork and knife.
Why Smørrebrød Intrigued Me
Maybe I’ve just been impacted by the Italian way of life after my 3 years living there, but there is something I find appealing about particular acceptable combinations of local flavors developed over the centuries.
And smørrebrød definitely fits the bill.
Yes, it’s food. In some cases, it’s a way to repurpose leftovers. And to highlight local specialties.
But it’s really the Danish sensibility that gets me. The balance of flavors – sweet and salty and sour and bitter – just like you’d find in Asian cuisine. The textural contrasts between often soft pieces of fish or meat, topped by crunchier elements like fried onions or crispy bacon. And the culture of design in Denmark that leads to expertly layered smørrebrød where the final product has a great balance of the size and colors of the different components.
Luckily my servers at smørrebrød spots around Copenhagen were friendly and helpful, guiding me through lengthy menus and helping me to fully appreciate these beautiful bites.
Beer is the go-to drink to accompany smørrebrød for many locals. There will likely be multiple beers on tap at any smørrebrød restaurant. Servers were great at pointing me toward traditional options, and there are several breweries in the city of Copenhagen, so I tried to sample as many different local brews as I could.
The other far more potent beverage pairing for smørrebrød is aquavit, a local type of schnapps that is infused with different herbs and flavors. So of course this means that only certain types of aquavit go with certain types of smørrebrød, but rest assured there will be an ideal chilly sip of aquavit to pair with any food you’ve ordered. The few times I enjoyed aquavit, I usually only had it with my final smørrebrød, and left it up to the server to decide which flavor would be best.
But like with other local, traditional food and beverage pairings I’ve enjoyed in my travels, it all just goes so well together.
Best Places to Enjoy Smørrebrød in Copenhagen
There are plenty of spots around Copenhagen to enjoy smørrebrød, but not every spot you see is worth eating at. For some delicious plates of smørrebrød in Copenhagen, check out the following places:
Serving up smørrebrød since 1910, this spot is a classic location that has maintained a lot of the same décor from when it first opened. Fish is its specialty, with a lot of different herring options available, and plenty of other smørrebrød options as well as their extensive beer and aquavit selection. If you’re having trouble deciding which smørrebrød to order, there is also a lunch tasting menu available.
TIP! This spot is not open on Sundays, except for the first Sunday of the month.
There are a few market locations around town, and I visited the one in Torvehallerne. The Torvehallerne market is a stop on a lot of food tours, so there was a mix of locals and tourists in the queue. This was actually my first moment spotting smørrebrød the morning after I arrived and they all looked so beautiful I couldn’t resist purchasing (and immediately sampling!) a delicious few.
Thanks to the friendly service and convivial atmosphere (and delicious bites, of course), this was my favorite smørrebrød restaurant of my time in Copenhagen. Their cozy atmosphere makes the food experience even more pleasant, and the waiter offered excellent advice on both food and aquavit pairings. This was also one of the few places, where I got to assemble my own smørrebrød – the fried camembert with jam and fried parsley on rye.
TIP! Restaurant Kronborg has the additional benefit of being open 7 days a week.
Even, the Aamann’s stand I spotted at the airport had some great looking bites, and I couldn’t resist one more smørrebrød that I ate on the plane ride home. (They also have several locations around the city of Copenhagen.)
I didn’t realize this when I booked my trip, but I ended up visiting during a public holiday weekend, so every restaurant I wanted to sample was not open, especially on the holiday Monday. Several smørrebrød spots operate only during the week and there are others that are closed on Sunday and public holidays.
The other main two spots that came up in my research and are ones that I’d like to check out on my next visit:
Rita’s Smørrebrød. A more local spot that is a bit away from most tourist attractions in a residential area, this spot is only open Monday through Friday.
Restaurant Schoennemann. Possibly the most historical (and fancy) of all the smørrebrød options, there is a wealth of options at this spot, categorized by the protein used. In addition to the mainstays, you’ll also find venison, duck, and veal as smørrebrød on their menu. Open since 1877, it’s had plenty of time to build up its reputation, so online bookings are recommended. It is closed on Sundays and public holidays.
So what are you waiting for, head to Copenhagen and try them for yourself!
Have you ever tried smørrebrød? What else do you seek out in your travels? Have you experienced a singular obsession in a specific destination like I have? Tell me in the ‘Comments’ to inspire what obsession I should seek out next in my travels!
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Where has the year gone?!? I feel like I say this every December, and this year is no exception.
I started off this year with high hopes and grand plans, and I am happy to say that I have made many of them a reality. Others will have to wait another year, but in the meantime a new season is rapidly approaching.
Let me start off by saying I’m a summer baby, and luxuriate in warm – and even hot – weather. Too stifling? Jump in a pool or go to the beach.
Winter, though. That’s a whole other story.
Many of the things that made my ‘Winter Bucket List’ are all about ways to warm up when the frigid temperatures set in, and there’s nothing wrong with that. And for some of this, yes, you’ll have to bundle up and brave the cold weather for some frolicking in the snow.
And it will be worth it.
Read on for my plans for the season, and I’d love to hear yours!
This is what I hope to be up to in the coming months:
Marvel at the holiday decorations
I bet wherever you are in the world, places around you light up for the holidays. I’ve seen some of the most unexpected places – Israel and Sri Lanka come to mind – decked out with brightly colored “Christmas” lights. I love seeing the designs and creativity that go into the displays, so take advantage of the places around you that light up this time of year and just take it all in.
Ever since I learned to ski at the wee age of 28 (let’s not talk about how long ago that was), I’ve really embraced the fun. I’m not a double black diamond, speed-down-the-slope kind of gal – although good for you if you are – but even at my medium pace, I love feeling the wind rush by and the thrill of speed as I head downhill. Any winter sport can be fun though, whether it’s snowboarding or ice skating.
Play in the snow
Why not? Frolicking in the soft, powdery white stuff is not just for children. Whether you’re doing an actual activity like sledding or snow tubing, or just having a snowball fight with friends, take some time and appreciate this crazy substance that literally falls from the sky.
Sip a hot beverage
Nothing to help warm you up from the cold like a hot beverage. I love a thick, gooey hot chocolate with marshmallows or whipped cream and especially enjoy some mulled wine for strolling out in the cold. I’ve even been known to heat up egg nog. Whether it’s a cuppa or a hot apple cider or possibly a spiked version of your favorite warm drink, savor it.
Hang out in front of a fireplace
I don’t have a fireplace at home – I know, epic fail! – but I do love sitting in front of a fire. Feeling the warmth and being mesmerized as the flames dance in haphazard directions is one of my beloved ways to pass time in winter. So when I go away for a weekend, it’s something I’ll seek out before choosing where to book my accommodations.
Visit a hot tub or sauna
Another thing I’ll look for when I make winter travel plans? Whether a hotel has a hot tub or sauna. Especially if I’ll be doing some activities outdoors, I love being able to relax my muscles and warm up in the heat. Bonus if you can find a hot tub or hot springs to enjoy outside!
Nibble on roasted chestnuts
I may have grown up singing about chestnuts roasting on an open fire, but it wasn’t until my time living in Europe that I really appreciated the flavor of a freshly roasted chestnut picked up from a street vendor on a stroll through a holiday market. I haven’t seen any stateside this season, but I am keeping an eye out.
Enjoy a holiday party
This doesn’t need to be a formal work event, as most cities and towns have all sorts of celebrations for the holidays, from parades to bar crawls. So far this season I’ve enjoyed a holiday celebration with small bites and lots of vino at my local Wine Market and an Ugly Sweater Party with friends. Probably have a few more celebrations up my sleeve, and can’t wait for the upcoming festivities.
Curl up with some comfort food
Chilled soup in winter? I think not. I’m all about hearty (hot) soups and stews this time of year, for something that will warm you up as it fills you up. Or, taking a page out of the northern Italian playbook, some stick-to-your-ribs polenta or risotto. Or the Swiss favorites I was thinking of just the other day – fondue and raclette – a.k.a. melted cheese yumminess.
Take a hike
While I won’t rock climb in weather so cold I can’t feel my fingers, there are ample ways to bundle up to get outdoors for a stroll or hike in winter. Certainly dress appropriately for the weather, and then enjoy the different sights, sounds, and smells that nature provides this season. And since most people save hiking for hotter temperatures, you’re more likely to have the trail all to yourself.
Travel somewhere warm!
Okay, this may sound like cheating (shouldn’t winter be about embracing the cold?) but nothing makes you appreciate a warm destination more than arriving from winter somewhere. Don’t worry, you don’t have to go far the edge of the opposite hemisphere, there are plenty destinations not far from the equator that will be relatively easy to get to wherever you are.
I’m more of a sunset than sunrise kind of gal, as I’m not much of a morning person. The rest of the year, my 7am commute to work is firmly in the hours of sunlight, but in wintertime the sun makes its appearance much later in the morning. No 4am wakeup needed, take advantage of later sunrise in the wintertime and set your alarm to wake up just a wee bit earlier and catch it more often!
What do you have planned for the winter? Anything I should add to my ‘Winter Bucket List’? What’s your favorite winter comfort food? Tell me all about in in the ‘Comments’ below!
I hadn’t planned to go to Israel during Chanukah two years ago, it just sort of happened. I knew that I was targeting the first weekend in December for a short trip somewhere, since it was a holiday weekend in Milan. After asking around a bit, I couldn’t find a single friend who was available to travel – most people already had plans.
Then, on a whim, I checked on flight prices to Israel. I have some family there, and since it’s only a 4-hour direct flight from Milan to Tel Aviv, they had been asking me when I’d visit ever since I moved to Europe.
It seemed like the next option to try, just to see. Then up pops EasyJet, one of the European discount carriers, with a fare of €68. Round trip. For direct flights in both directions.
Obviously I took this as a sign, and I booked my flights immediately. Only after that did I realize that my visit would coincide with the Jewish holiday of Chanukah. I was busy with university coursework during Chanukah the year I lived in Israel, so experiencing the fun of Chanukah there as a tourist for the first time was a welcome surprise.
Here’s why Israel is a great destination to visit during Chanukah:
Lights
Chanukah is known as the ‘Festival of Lights’ and just as you might expect, the whole country is decorated in lights during the 8-day celebration. It is a beautiful time of year for a visit, with everywhere from small towns to big cities lit up at night, like you might expect to see in other places for Christmas. You may also get the chance to progressively light Chanukah candles during the eight nights, a special tradition to share even if you aren’t Jewish.
Potato Pancakes
I promise you, I ate lots of latkes during my Chanukah in Israel. They are traditional potato pancakes that are cooked in oil to commemorate the miracle of the holiday, when a small amount of oil lasted unexpectedly for eight nights.
In Israel, I devoured home-cooked latkes at several friends’ and family’s houses, grabbed a few when out for other meals at regular restaurants serving it as a menu special, and snagged a few more when I went to Chanukah parties around Tel Aviv.
What didn’t I do? Photograph any of the ones I ate during my trip! So here’s a shot of latke-making in the US with my family from last year to give you an idea of what to expect:
Doughnuts
Doughnuts as far as the eye can see is the view that will greet you walking into any bakery during the holiday of Chanukah, and this seemed to be the most-consumed Chanukah food. Doughnuts are known in Hebrew as sufganiyot, and you’ll hear that word quite a lot during a holiday visit. Like latkes, they are a traditional festive food because they are fried in oil, commemorating the Chanukah miracle.
Practically, sufganiyot for Chanukah are an excuse for bakeries to take their sweets to the next level, with all sorts of crazy flavor combinations you won’t see at other times of the year. From elaborate decorations to injectable “shots” of doughnut filling, it is a foodie dream to explore all of the different doughnut varieties available. And the good news is, you have 8 nights to do it!
TIP! Jewish holidays go by the lunar calendar, so during the nights of Chanukah you’ll find doughnuts overflowing out of bakeries across the country. On Day 8 of Chanukah, following the eighth night, it’s back to the regular bakery offerings – so get your fix of specialty doughnuts before then!
Other Winter Specialties
In addition to the two traditional Chanukah foods you’ll find in abundance – latkes and sufganiyot – there are also some other winter culinary specialties that if you visit for Chanukah, you’ll get to enjoy just by being there in the right season for it.
Top of that list for me is the Krem Bo, a dessert that comes individually wrapped, and is only available during the winter time. It consists of a circular graham cookie base, a marshmallow-like meringue mixture piled high on top, with a thin coating of chocolate around everything but the bottom.
Since it’s covered in chocolate, it would melt in Israel’s hot climate at other times of year, so is only available during winter. Most convenience stores and markets will have it in one or more flavors – if you don’t see it, just ask!
Another cold weather favorite is the aromatic, creamy Arabic beverage known as sachlav, which will be served at outdoor stands piping hot just like hot chocolate or mulled wine in other parts of the world. Head to the nearest market – or just keep your eyes open around town – and you’ll definitely find a vendor to sample this specialty.
A lot of Jewish holidays are of great religious importance, and observant Jews will treat it like the Sabbath, not using their phones or computers or even turning on lights around the house. The benefit of Chanukah is that it is a relatively minor holiday not subject to the same restrictions.
So other than the typically one Sabbath that will fall over the 8 days of Chanukah, you can cook latkes with your religious friends and family with abandon, which I especially savored this trip since I have extended family members who are observant who I otherwise would not have been able to spend as much time cooking and celebrating with.
TIP! Even if you won’t be hanging out with any religious Jews when you go, there won’t be any special closures of public buses or businesses for Chanukah to worry about and track along with your itinerary.
Festivities
Israelis are always looking for a sibah l’msibah, a reason to party! While Israelis might be traveling at the end of December to spend New Year’s somewhere special, people are typically around through the rest of the month, and celebrate accordingly.
I spent most of my Chanukah in the coastal city of Tel Aviv. It has a bustling nightlife during a regular week, which goes into overdrive for the Chanukah celebrations. There were multiple parties happening across the city on any given night, from low-key gatherings to late-night clubbing on the beach. Get a special taste of festivities across the country by coming during Chanukah!
Not only did I get possibly my best flight deal ever traveling to Tel Aviv from Milan for cheaper than a domestic train ticket, but other tourist amenities were also cheaper after I arrived. Spending Friday night in Jerusalem was a no-brainer after finding availability at a decent hotel in the center of town for just $60/night, so my budget went just that extra bit farther and I was able to see more throughout the entire trip.
What holiday celebrations have you enjoyed on the road? Have you ever visited Israel during Chanukah? Anything else you want to know before you go? Let me know in the Comments!
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Charlottesville may be a college town, but it is much more than a destination for the University of Virginia.
There are several US presidential estates in the area, most famously Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello Estate, but not only. Charlottesville is nestled in some of the greenest areas of Virginia, offering many opportunities for hiking and outdoor exploration. And the reason I keep coming back again and again? All of the delicious food and wine all nestled into a small, beautiful area.
It is definitely useful to have a car for a weekend in Charlottesville, because many of the sights you’ll want to see will be out of town. Also, if you’re like me and planning to do a bunch of wine tasting (and purchasing), it is handy to have the trunk of a car to transport it all. And of course, road tripping gives you the ultimate flexibility of how to spend your day.
Read on for all my top recommendations on ‘Things to Do’ and ‘Best Bites & Sips’ for when you visit.
Former presidential estate of Thomas Jefferson, this is probably the most well-known landmark in the area and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tours are required, but you can get a ticket to do this at your own pace, or one that focuses on a specific aspect of the estate, like the lives of slaves on the plantation or Jefferson’s gardening interest and research. In the years since my last trip there, Monticello tourism has exploded, especially in summertime. Definitely try to time your visit for spring or fall, and plan to get an early start to beat the crowds.
TIP! You can get tickets online in advance at a discount, and this will save you waiting in line when you arrive. These are available until midnight the day before your visit.
TIP! There are quite a few quite easy walking trails across the property, so leave additional time if you’d like to explore more on foot beyond the estate and its buildings. A trail map is here.
Although James Monroe’s Highland Estate was (deliberately) close to Monticello, it attracts far fewer visitors. Certainly it is a smaller estate, but it also limited since the original house burned down at one point. The up side for visitors to the area is that even at the peak of summer travel when other spots are quite busy, you can still stroll in and enjoy the relaxing and quite informative tour of the grounds. A lot is still being discovered on the property, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth another look on your next Charlottesville trip.
TIP! Highland is so close to Monticello that it is quite easy to visit both together in a single morning or afternoon.
Explore Nature
https://www.instagram.com/p/BX0rKqIlNOk/
There are a ton of nearby green spaces to explore, most famously Shenandoah National Park and its scenic Skyline Drive. There are also a lot of nearby hikes that you can research through the national park website. There are also trails on the Monticello Estate, see more in the above TIP!
This pedestrian area is the social center of Charlottesville and has a great variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants to enjoy over the course of an afternoon or evening (see ‘Best Bites & Sips’ below). Envisioned as an ‘urban park’ there are a ton of outdoor events scheduled here, especially in summer. Plus, there is an ongoing schedule of concerts and festivals at the adjacent Sprint Pavilion.
University of Virginia (UVA) Campus
Even if you’re not a prospective student or the family of one, you might want to explore the campus of the University of Virginia. It was founded by Thomas Jefferson in the early 1800s and is the only college campus in America that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Explore the campus on your own, or join UVA University Guide Service for one of the historical tours that take place most days at 10am, 11am, and 2pm. There are also tours about the ‘History of Women’ and ‘History of African Americans’ at the University by request.
Alcohol Alley
Nearby Route 151 is not the only place to find great wineries, breweries, and cideries in the Charlottesville area, but it sure has a lot of them – hence how it got nicknamed by locals. Certainly even if you do no research and have no plan for tasting the local libations, you can explore along this road and follow the excellent signage to pop into a few random spots. Silverback Distillery below was an impulse stop along this stretch of road, and there is lots more to explore.
Honestly, the wineries (and the delicious food – see below) are the main reason I keep recommending Charlottesville as a great weekend getaway. You visit one or two of the 30+ local wineries over the course of the weekend or can set an ambitious schedule – like I *might* have done – hitting up 4-5 wineries in a day. It’s definitely possible to do that without feeling rushed, but of course it all depends on how early you start 😉
TIP! Most local wineries are open from 10 or 11am until 5 or 6pm.
My top 2 picks are DelFosse Vineyards & Winery and King Family Vineyards, but for more on the best local wineries – including which ones have the best lunch options and picnic grounds – head to my post all about Charlottesville Wineries.
This was an impulse stop on a day of hitting up multiple wineries and a great find. Although the Distillery is only a few years old, it offers rye and honey rye, plus boasts several award winning alcohols including a very uniquely aromatic gin that I just loved. They also craft some pretty creative cocktails on the weekend, and I might have been just a little mesmerized by them setting a chunk of bark on fire to infuse their smoky Old Fashioned.
Best Bites & Sips
I have not had a bad meal in Charlottesville. There is a definite foodie culture in this university town and many outstanding options to choose from, from low-key dishes done well to high-end experimental cuisine. I certainly have not sampled them all (yet!) but I have done quite a bit of research into the spots where I did land on my trips, and have only included the spots of my most outstanding meals here.
A lot of the best spots are clustered in the downtown pedestrian area that extends for many blocks, and I’d definitely recommend staying walking distance from this part of town. There are several coffee and breakfast places to hit up in the morning, and dozens of exceptional restaurants to explore each evening.
This place has a bit of something for everyone, kind of like a diner with more flavor combinations for each dish. And they might be just a wee bit obsessed with bacon, based on all of the signs and puns scattered around. No reservations, so be prepared for a wait, especially if you’re in a larger party.
TIP! It’s usually easier to snag a seat at one of the bar stools, which lets you leapfrog the list if you see a spot open up. I was seated in about 2 minutes on a crowded Sunday this way, and got the added entertainment of being able to see into the kitchen.
TIP! There are lots of vegetarian and vegan options here, in all sorts of delectable combinations.
First off, let me say that I am a native New Yorker. Saturday memories of my childhood are filled with the aroma of steaming bagels piled high in a paper bag that my dad would go out and get fresh early in the morning. Any time I’ve lived outside of the New York City metro area, I usually transport bagels by the dozen to freeze and defrost one at a time for eating, because I’ve found that frozen and reheated NY bagels are still usually better than what I can find locally.
Bodo’s serves up a very respectable and delicious bagel, and it’s definitely worth seeking out on your visit, especially if you don’t have access to great bagels back at home. You’ll find each location packed with locals when you go!
It’s French cuisine with a twist, and easily accessible right on the downtown pedestrian mall. While I wish that the steak frites had been more traditional, their daily specials that you see were out of this world and there was a comprehensive wine and beer (and cocktail) list to accompany all these delicious bites. An outstanding spot – the only thing missing is to have some bread at the table to sop up all their amazing sauces!
TIP! The Brasserie is the only place in this section of the list that also serves lunch, if you’re looking for an upscale midday meal.
This restaurant, named after the old Chesapeake & Ohio (C&O) train station across the street, may also be a local classic from many years ago, but you’ll get a delightfully modern and local take on food when you dine here. It is a bit upscale, although if you are visiting from a major US city, you may just see the prices as what you’d find at a neighborhood spot back home. The food is so delicious and beautifully presented in a great atmosphere with excellent service, that you’ll blissfully enjoy your time dining here. Added bonus? It’s right off the downtown pedestrian mall.
First of all, this is the one spot that is a bit far from the central pedestrian area I keep talking about, close to the UVA campus. But trust me, it’s worth the trek. The décor is a bit old school, but the innovative takes on dishes and flavor combinations are divine and every bite here was one to savor with just the right balance of textures as well. Plus, everything was beautifully presented, and they added some extra special touches for my birthday as you can see in the photos.
Zocalo is a Latin-inspired restaurant on the downtown pedestrian mall that was relatively new to the scene when I first visited a decade ago, and it is still just as good as it ever was. Their flavors are bold, execution flawless, and it is just really delicious food. Now a Charlottesville mainstay, it is a great spot for exploring all that the local food scene has to offer.
I can’t speak to their food although as you can tell from the name it is also a proper restaurant. I can vouch for their great beer selection and solid cocktails, though. My favorite part was sitting outside at the Skybar doing some people-watching, since it overlooks the central pedestrian area below.
TIP! Seating in this upstairs section is first-come, first-served.
Some Final Thoughts
Admittedly, my first forays into Charlottesville were to watch college lacrosse games. The University of Virginia (UVA) usually has a solid team, and sometimes I even did day trips from Washington, DC to see them play my alma mater.
The reason I’ve returned to Charlottesville time and again is not just the variety of things to do and great places to eat, but that there is such a high quality and friendliness everywhere you go.
This really is a superlative spot to spend a few days, and after recent events, Charlottesville is definitely in need of some tourist love. Get to it!
Have you been to Charlottesville? Are there any places that didn’t make my list but should have? Share away in the ‘Comments’ – I’ll definitely be back!
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Rome is a feast for the senses. The iconic sights, the sounds of the city, and the feel of the cobblestone under your feet as you stroll. And yes, of course, all of that delicious food.
You might sense a great restaurant first by the enticing aroma wafting toward you as you happen past. Or perhaps spying that gelateria with a line snaking out the door on a weekday afternoon.
Although I did a fair bit of planning before all of my trips to Rome, in the end it was the combination of my research, geography, and my senses telling me the signals were right that led to my favorite spots and my most delicious meals.
Sometimes I was at a museum or doing some sightseeing, then found a nearby gem. Other times I trekked across town to sample the food of a particular restaurant, and then got lost exploring the nearby neighborhood. All wonderful ways to really explore the wonders a city like Rome has to offer.
Read on for the results of my culinary wanderings and the delicious bites I enjoyed along the way.
I went when I stayed at a guesthouse nearby, and the “Old Galleon” was quite the seafood gem out of the heart of the city. I dined here solo and the staff were nothing but welcoming, and the food was Italian comfort food. There is definitely a relaxed vibe with the décor and friendliness, and lots of families were enjoying communal meals here as a place out where you can still get a pretty traditional home-cooked meal out of the house.
This is probably the most casual spot on my list, with food served cafeteria style. It’s piled high on your plate, heated up for you, then offered on a plastic cafeteria tray. There are an array of dishes coming from the 2,000+ year-old Roman Jewish culinary traditions, and this was what I came to sample. And it was delicious! Just ask the helpful staff to point you in the direction of the traditional options being offered that day, and it’s all certified kosher. And even though it’s cafeteria style, this is Italy after all, so enjoy your meal with a glass of wine.
This is the place to go for slightly upscale Roman cuisine, with the price and quality to match. Conveniently located at the end of a tram line from central Rome, you’ll savor impeccable service and well-executed dishes, although for me as a solo traveler it was a bit formal compared to the places I usually prefer.
This gem wasn’t on any list, but a quaint spot I stumbled upon on a centrally located pedestrian side street. Ask for what dishes are best that day, and you’ll be reward with beautifully presented and delicious food. Don’t miss the biscottini on offer at the end of the meal.
This spot is wayyyyy off the beaten path for most tourists to Rome, but was hands-down my favorite meal in the city. Although I trekked quite a bit to eat here, I was rewarded with exploring a neighborhood on foot, and a prime viewing position by a quite intact section of the Aurelian wall around Rome. Plan an extended time to fit Osteria Bonelli into your itinerary, but it will be worth it for the down home traditional cooking that you order off the hand-written menu on a chalkboard – and a taste of what it’s like to experience Italy like a local.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BQRLugZAmQE/
TIP! Reserve a table in advance so you’re not disappointed when you arrive. It may be far away from most tourists, but this place seems like it’s always packed!
Roman pizza may not be the image of pizza that first comes to mind. Most people conjure up the familiar round Neapolitan concoction, while Roman pizza is made in rectangular slabs. The good news? Unlike having to pick a single flavor for a round pizza all to yourself, you can mix and match different flavors, directing them behind the counter to cut each section in the size you’d like. This was my last stop before the train back to Milan, so I loaded up on several flavors I enjoyed en route and once I arrived, and they were all incredible.
It’s central, and it’s some high-quality traditional Italian cuisine. There are lots of dishes to sample local Roman specialties, but really anything you order will be delicious. One of the better authentic options close to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and in the case of me and my sister, served by a welcoming Italian grandmother who doted on us.
Fancy Spots to Check out Next Time
As per usual, I left Rome on my last visit with a list of places for next time. Despite multiple trips, I haven’t yet experienced Rome’s fine dining scene. When I do, two places top my list:
This is your three-star Michelin dining, for the really exceptional splurge while in Rome. The tasting menu price will set you back quite a few Euros, but this is the foodie experience many dream of. This is the ultimate in fancy Rome dining for the truly special occasion.
Pataclara is my top pick for a splurge on my next visit to Rome. Although the website is entirely in Italian, you can see how each dish is a work of art when you click the link above. There are quite a number of options of dishes a la carte as well as 3 degustazioni, or tasting menus at different price points. You can certainly eat in Rome for less, but I get the impression that both the €45 and €60 tasting menus are an absolute bargain for how much you’ll enjoy the food here.
Gelato Spots
There are a lot of gelaterie in Rome, and I tried many more than made this list. For me, that perfect gelato has a combination of silky smooth texture mixed with intense flavor that gives you pause. Here are two spots where you’ll have that gelato epiphany:
Think of the most crazy flavor combination you can. It’s probably one of your choices at any Fatamorgana branch around Rome, in addition to more traditional flavors. The good news is that wherever you are in the city, there’s probably one relatively close. I visited a branch not terribly far from the Colisseum, but just a far enough stroll that it was filled with neighborhood locals with barely another tourist in sight.
This is the only gelateria in Rome that wowed me so much that I visited twice in two days. There are a couple of centrally located outposts. I visited the one by the Lepanto metro stop, and was instantly transported to foodie heaven as I enjoyed their crema di pinoli flavor, which is luxuriously creamy and perfectly flavored with pine nut intensity. There’s a reason you’ll be lined up here with the locals.
There’s certainly no shortage of places to eat in Rome, but of course if you want a wonderful meal, that narrows the field considerably. Even if you’re limited on time and sticking to the tourist highlights, there are lots of great restaurants in close proximity – you just need to know where to go.
What are your favorite places to eat in Rome? Have you been to anywhere from the list? Any other restaurants I should try? Help me decide which spots to savor on my next visit!
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