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Where to Find Stockholm’s Best Bites (and Sips)

October 27, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

During my several days in Stockholm, I scoured the city not only for the best restaurants, but also for the best bites – the one item done well at a particular place. Where I landed was based on my own research and recommendations from friends, and also keeping my eyes open as I toured the city and trusting my instincts. It felt like I encountered culinary bliss everywhere I went!

Here’s what I found:

Best Bites

Barrels Burgers & Beer

That name says it all, huh? I normally wouldn’t get a burger as I try to eat my way through a new city, however when my primary plan fell through, I remembered a fellow blogger at TBEX raving about how this had been his favorite meal so far. There are many toppings available beyond your typical burger and cheeseburger, so I tried the ‘Eiffel’ since I adore Bearnaise sauce. Juicy and perfectly balanced, this burger was definitely a highlight for me as well.

Broms

Thanks to IKEA, many people associate cinnamon buns with Sweden, however I found the similar cardamom bun to be even more popular with locals. Plus, as I’ve never seen it outside of Sweden, a treat that you can only enjoy locally. I probably tried at least 5 different cardamom buns over my few days, and the one from Broms was hands-down my favorite. It had the right balance of doughiness and the sticky sweetness to contrast the more savory flavor of the cardamom spice – just heaven. I had planned to just take a bite to try it at first as I was still pretty full from lunch, and ended up devouring the whole thing in under a minute!

Ekstedt

It is hard to score a reservation to eat at Ekstedt, and with good reason. If you can be flexible (I went late on a weeknight), you’ll have a better chance of eating here. Why is it so sought after? Ekstedt is probably most well-known for only having one heat source: its wood-burning oven. What makes the creations that come from oven so delectable though, is the creativity they use in composing dishes. I had dishes that were baked, smoked, and cooked in a cast iron. The most creative preparation – and most memorable for me – was the amuse bouche, which was deer meat and aromatics prepared table-side in a stone bowl that had been heated in the oven.

TIP! Even if you’re not dining solo like me, I highly recommend sitting at the bar so you can observe the cooking and plating process first-hand.

Östermalms Korvspecialist

I’ve already written about how korv is a food to seek out in Stockholm, and I greatly enjoyed the version I sampled here. Not your ordinary hot dog, as there are dozens of meat and spicing combinations available, I recommend consuming whatever korv you choose on a baguette with all the toppings.

Östermalms Saluhall

This is an indoor food market with many tempting stalls, although I’d head straight for the Melanders counter, where you can find giant salmon fillets in a variety of cured and smoked preparations. You can order by weight or by the slice, and the fish will be expertly sliced with the care typically reserved for Spanish or Italian hams. Every sentence I’ve written (and deleted) so far to describe the taste has sounded contrived, so let’s just suffice it to say that if you like salmon, each bite is a little bit of heaven and will give you pause.

TIP! Sample culinary delights at the other stands while you’re at the Saluhall, especially any Swedish foods you’d like to try during your trip. I also enjoyed one of the local specialties I found at another stall, a potato pancake served with lingonberry jam.

Restaurant Rakan

I went here looking for a relatively quick bite close to the train station, and was surprised at how well-balanced and flavorful the fish stew turned out to be. The layering of flavors and textures, with each piece of seafood perfectly cooked, made this a surprising find on my first full day in town. Even though it was a decent portion size I could not completely finish, I did soak up and savor every last bit of the broth between the bread and rice.

Best Sips

Other than the wine pairing at Ekstedt (see above), which was phenomenally well done, the wine, beer, or cocktails I sampled elsewhere in Stockholm honestly don’t stand out for me. I did however have some delicious coffee during my visit:

Barista

I was not impressed with the first few cups of coffee I consumed in Stockholm, so asked a local who was my tour guide on an excursion where she would recommend, and she steered me toward Barista. Don’t let its location inside of the train station be a deterrent, it is a spot where you’ll find espresso-based drinks done right.

Espresso Sosta Bar

And the other place to seek out for good espresso? A place run by Italians, of course! I would say that while I was there, about half the people were conversing with the baristas in Italian, with the rest of the customers requesting their coffee in an an even split between Swedish and English. Like in Italy, you can consume your coffee standing at the bar, or at one of their tables inside or outside.

Certainly this is not meant to be an exhaustive list, especially since many restaurants in Stockholm close or relocate for the summer, so not everywhere on my original list was even open when I was there. But if you follow the list above, you’ll certainly make the most of the limited time you have in Stockholm on your visit!

What singular bites stick out in your memory or have made you want to go back to a particular city? Anything else you’d like to know about Stockholm’s food scene?

5 Reasons to Visit Stockholm after Summer

October 6, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Unless it’s to see the Northern Lights, I’ve always thought of Scandinavia as a summer destination. Scandinavia and Sweden are pretty far north, so the best time to go intuitively should be at the hottest point of the year. So when presented with the opportunity to attend a travel blogger conference (TBEX!) in Stockholm back in July, I was excited since I imagined that summer would be the perfect time to check out the Swedish capital.

I had a wonderful time in my few days in Stockholm, both at the conference and out and about in the city on my own, however I couldn’t help thinking throughout my time there that summer just didn’t seem to be the absolute best time for a trip. Here are a few things about summer in Stockholm that made me dream of Stockholm in autumn (or spring):

Stockholm gets hot in summer.

No, really, it does. Actually hot, even by non-Scandinavian standards. Some of the days walking around I was sweating profusely, and even got some color despite slathering up with high-SPF sunscreen. What I did not completely realize until my visit is that Stockholm is actually an archipelago composed of 14 main islands, so as you go around the city you are crossing bridges with no shade and getting a lot of the reflected sunlight from the water everywhere. The hot time of year may be your preferred travel climate, but for me to visit a city, I’d prefer a cooler day where is comfortable to walk around without overheating or needing to carry large quantities of water to stay hydrated.

Many restaurants close down for several weeks or the whole summer.

In a way it made my travel planning a bit easier, but I was surprised at how many of the restaurants that were on my “to eat” list ended up being closed while I was in town. Fortunately, most places had their closure dates listed prominently on their websites, but there was still one stand for korv that I went out of my way to check out, only to discover that it was closed for several weeks. There was even one restaurant that relocated outside of the city at one of the popular island destinations for the entire summer. If you’re a foodie like me, or want to taste the best of what Stockholm has to offer, you’ll have greater options available by waiting until after summer to make your trip.

There is construction everywhere during summer.

It makes sense that a city with a cold climate would take advantage of the summer months to catch up on construction and renovations around town, and this is exactly what happens in the Swedish capital. A lot of streets and sidewalks were blocked by active construction and there was a lot of scaffolding around town. Summer also seems to be the time of year that restaurants choose to undergo renovations, so it being prime time for construction further contributes to restaurants being closed at this time of year.

Avoiding peak season for tourists.

Summer is definitely peak tourist season in Stockholm. Flights and hotels are more expensive, restaurant reservations are harder to come by for the places still open, and all of the sights are more crowded. Obviously between summer vacation for school-age children and it being the warmest weather of the year in Scandinavia, it will remain a popular time for a visit. But if you are a traveler with a bit of scheduling flexibility, coming during the fall or spring shoulder season will mean a more relaxed (and cheaper!) overall experience.

Better weather to enjoy fika

Fika is the Swedish tradition of a coffee break with pastry, part of the rhythm of a typical day. If you’re like me, if it is hot outside and you’ve been out and about sightseeing, the idea of a hot coffee and snacking on a pastry is not particularly appealing. While I did have the occasional coffee beverage to keep my energy up, I just couldn’t manage to sit down and eat between meals in the heat. I love the idea of having a set break like fika in the morning and afternoon though, which reminds me of living in Australia where it was part of my work contract that I got allotted break time for both morning and afternoon tea. But for me, autumn with its crisp air and turning leaves is the perfect time to savor a hot beverage and have a sweet pastry to break up the day.

Have you been to Stockholm? What time of year do you think is best for a visit?

My Favorite European Skiing Tradition: Après Ski

November 29, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Before you take off your skiing attire, before the trek back to your lodge, before a soak in the jacuzzi, there is après ski.

Literally meaning “after ski” in French, après ski is originally a European tradition, although there are some popular aprè s ski scenes at some of the more serious North American slopes these days. While only certain ski areas in the US or Canada may boast opportunities for après ski enjoyment, I’ve found that there is an après ski scene – to some degree at least – at all of the European slopes I’ve frequented. Certainly my first exposure to the concept and enjoyment of après ski was in Europe.

What to expect from the après ski scene:

You’ve been on the slopes all day. You’re a little bit chilly now that the sun is low in the sky, and your muscles are feeling the day’s exertion. Maybe you’re dreaming of relaxing in the hot tub or a trip to the sauna before a hot shower and hearty dinner. But before all that, the party that is après ski awaits!

Festive Atmosphere

Even if you weren’t originally planning on going out somewhere still sporting all of your ski gear, walking past large groups of people enjoying some drinks and the buzz of a lively happy hour will change your mind. It’ll be a mix of people who are back in regular shoes after returning their daily equipment rental and the really serious ski bunnies still in their ski boots, all sharing in the celebration of a successful day out on the slopes.

Music

And what kind of party would it be without music? At après ski, there is often a DJ spinning dance beats to keep the energy up and the crowd moving. For most European skiers, après ski *is* the main event for the night. Even at the more low-key spots, you’ll be enjoying some music to keep up your post-skiing energy.

Drinks

Drinking alcohol after a day of exercise is totally normal in Europe (and that’s if you haven’t already had a beer or something stronger with lunch). At après ski, some people opt for beer, wine, or cocktails, just like any happy hour or dance party. There will also be plenty of places offering hot beverages for those who want something to help them warm up after the chill of being out on the slopes all day. The most popular hot beverages I’ve seen at après ski are some kind of spiked hot cider or mulled wine (which you’ll see listed as vin chaud, vin brulee, glühwein, etc. depending on what country you’re skiing in).

Peak Time in the Late Afternoon

In most cities 4pm would be too early for the club scene, but late afternoon is prime time for après ski. For the most part, it will be at its most lively in the late afternoon before dinner, and located either at the base of the ski slope or somewhere close by, on everyone’s path back to their hotel or car. It’s pretty much intended as the activity immediately following skiing, still giving people time to unwind and relax after, so everyone can head to bed early to be able to hit the slopes first thing the following morning.

The most memorable places where I’ve enjoyed après ski were in Saas Fee, Switzerland & Courmayeur, Italy – both places with lively après ski scenes that are packed with people at the end of the ski day. Where are your favorite spots for après ski?

Unexpected Foods to Seek Out in European Cities

October 4, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

I wholly subscribe to my grandfather’s assertion that “travel is an adventure in eating” and enjoying the local food specialties of a destination is an essential part of my travel, especially lately. Living in Italy has given me a even deeper appreciation of the concept, as food here is not just regional (Italy has 20 different regions), but is often particular to a specific town with a traditional dish and a local grape that produces wine that pairs perfectly with that culinary specialty.

While eating local food has its perks, sometimes there is an unexpected food – often from another culture – that has become a typical food of the area worth seeking out during your visit. In Washington, DC where I lived for many years, you may not know that there are both large Ethiopian and Salvadorean populations, making it a prime city for swiping a chunk of injera through a mound of kitfo or sampling pupusas for the first time.

In Europe, several cities I’ve visited also have non-native food specialties you’ll see available everywhere you turn, but with long enough traditions that you can find particularly delectable versions with just a little bit of sleuthing.

Here are some of the foods that have been unexpected for me, and where to find them:

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Amsterdam: Falafel

My first trip to Amsterdam was visiting a friend who was studying there at the time, and I was quite surprised when she told me how excellent the falafel was there. The word may be out already beyond Europe, at least among my DC friends, as there is actually a shop in DC called “Amsterdam Falafel.” So why is falafel so popular in Amsterdam? I honestly have no idea (if you do, please share in the Comments section below!) but whether you’re a vegetarian or not, it is an excellent snack during your time in the city.

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Berlin: Kebab

Kebab is an ethnic food found in many cities across Europe, from Paris to Vienna, so why do I associate it in particular with Berlin? As you can see in my recent Berlin rundown, kebab options are plentiful in Berlin. There is a kebab stand – or several – on pretty much every corner, and you’ll frequently see people walking around with a kebab in hand. And the options and opinions about kebab abound. On my recent trip, I waited in line for over an hour at possibly the most popular spot for a €3 kebab, which was well worth it as the kebab was by far the best I have ever tasted.

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London: Curry

When you think of British food, you’re likely to conjure images of fish and chips, and possibly bangers and mash or shepherd’s pie. If you’ve visited London though, you know that its colonial history on the Indian sub-continent has resulted into curry being an art form, available in excellent renditions all over town. While there are some renowned chains (like Dishoom) in many parts of the city, there is no need to take the tube for ages. In any neighborhood you stay in, there is likely to be an excellent restaurant serving up traditional curry. Do a bit of research or asking around, and then like me, curry will be on your “must eat” list every time you’re in London for a visit or just passing through.

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Stockholm: Korv (hot dog)

You probably don’t know the word korv if you’re never visited Sweden, but calling it a hot dog or even a sausage is a misnomer. Again, like Berlin, korv is available all over town and is a frequently consumed street food. However korv is unique in that the places that really specialize in it don’t just offer one or two versions, but 20 or more combinations of meat and spices to entice the palate. I also appreciated that the “korvspecialists” are really catering to locals, with posted menus only in Swedish (although asking will produce an English recommendation or possibly even a menu behind the stand). In any case, I enjoyed my spicy lamb sausage on a baguette with all of the toppings.

What are some non-native food specialties in your city? And what is the most under-the-radar food you’ve sampled somewhere you were visiting? Share in the Comments below.

Is Europe safe these days?

August 11, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

I live in Milan, so you might expect that after the recent attacks that I would have serious thoughts and nightmare scenarios racing through my head. After all, I live in another major European city not that far away. I take the metro multiple times in a typical day. In the aftermath of the Paris attacks, a concert I was planning to attend here in Milan was postponed after appearing on a list of ISIS targets. All the factors that should lead to a very worried American expat, right?

Honestly though, while I felt anguish at the terror in Brussels and Nice, and compassion for the victims and their families, questioning my own personal safety here in Milan didn’t even cross my mind. None of my expat friends around Europe (and certainly none of the locals) have mentioned this topic even once.

It is only after receiving multiple concerned e-mails from friends and family back in the US about whether I feel safe in Milan – and if there were additional security measures being taken over here – that it even occurred to me to question my safety. And those questions are also what inspired me to write this post.

Why was I not more concerned?

I should be concerned, right? I have been to the Brussels airport twice in the last year and a half. Last year, although I did not go to Nice, I was in Monaco and other locations in the south of France. I was considering a weekend in Istanbul before the last attack.

I mean it when I say ‘I could have been there.’

But to me, post-attack is not the time to be nervous about locations abroad. Attacks have never stopped me from travelling before. Shortly after September 11^th, I bought plane tickets to Europe (for under $300 round-trip New York to London!) and spent a month travelling to London, Amsterdam, and Israel. This past fall, after a series of terrorist attacks in Israel, I checked flight prices and booked a great fare on EasyJet – 68 Euros for round-trip airfare between Milan and Tel Aviv – for travel in early December. In general, I find that post-violence security is better, there are fewer tourists, & prices are cheaper.

Does this mean I am reckless? Absolutely not.

Before September 11^th, I would have been the type of worker to stay at my desk even if people were telling me to leave. It is that precarious combination I possess of stubbornness and a Type A personality that would have led me at the time to think that I knew best. Plus, when I first heard about the towers being hit at work on the morning of September 11^th, it took me quite a while to process the news since having airplanes fly into the Twin Towers (even before they fell) was completely outside of the realm of what my brain thought was possible at the time. Had I been in the towers, I almost certainly would have perished, all the while feeling certain that I had made the right choice by not evacuating.

And post-September 11th?

Fortunately it was several years before I found myself in a situation that tested whether my stubbornness would get the best of me. In 2011, I was sitting at my cubicle desk in Washington, DC when I felt a slight rumble that lasted a few seconds and then shifted to a stronger sway causing my computer CPU to wobble enough that I had to reach out and actually catch the box to keep it from falling over. My stomach jumped a bit and my mind started racing…Was this a terrorist attack? It is DC after all. Or maybe an earthquake? But DC doesn’t get earthquakes, it couldn’t be that. But the shaking happened for long enough, that an earthquake was maybe the most likely explanation, right?

This happened just minutes before I was supposed to be on a conference call, and my rational mind starting thinking it was safe to stay. In fact, two of my colleagues stayed behind to be able to join the call. And me? I didn’t let my rational mind override my instinct, and got out of there as quickly as I could. Yes, I was a super-conscientious worker. But as I learned from September 11^th, life trumps diligence. At the time I was pretty confident that it had been an earthquake and not a terrorist attack. Even still, since DC is not an area typically prone to earthquakes, who knew if my office building had been constructed to withstand them?

Was everything all right in the end? Yes. Yes, it was an earthquake. Yes, the earthquake was weak enough that the building was safe to re-enter shortly after the evacuation. Yes, I was ultimately able to join that conference call. Even knowing the benign details now, and that I felt an amplified version of the earthquake since I was on a high floor at the time, am I glad I followed my instincts to evacuate? Yes. And I would do it again in a heartbeat.

And now?

Do I think it is my stubbornness that is keeping me from feeling unsafe in Milan, my current city? I can honestly say, no. For a few reasons:

Italy takes terrorist threats seriously. Although it did not get much mention in the English-speaking press, two of the Brussels bombers transited through Italy and spurred a re-examination of security measures. Even before the recent attacks, with the high number of recent refugees, all of Europe has been on increased security alert and more vigilant about airport and border checks, and I’m sure will be even more so now.
Strade Sicure standing guard in Milan
Milan takes terrorist threats seriously. I have personally noticed changes over the past months. There are more strade sicure (“safe streets”) armored vehicles driving throughout the city on a regular basis, when usually I only see them parked in front of vulnerable locations. Local police officers are monitoring Milan’s metro platforms and riding the trains.
I take my safety seriously. I am a city girl with street smarts. Even though Milan is relatively safe, I am always cautious. I keep my purse zipper facing front and my arm securely over it at all times. If I see someone suspicious-looking or who gives me an uncomfortable feeling on public transit, I switch metro cars. I walk with purpose.

Above all, I do not let terror terrorize me. I believe that tourist destinations are typically safer after an attack. And the risks (and rewards) of living in a major European city are no different than almost three years ago when I moved here: pre-Paris, pre-Brussels, pre-Istanbul, pre-Nice.

Life goes on, and travel goes on as well.

How about you?

Are you an expat living in Europe? Do you think Europe in general is safe right now? How about your city?

And is anyone out there re-thinking a European vacation they’ve already booked? Or are you someone who wasn’t planning to come to Europe and is now considering a trip?

Share your thoughts in the comments below.

Travel Savvy Gal

Making the Most of Your Time Away

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