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An Encounter in Rome: Tales from the Road

An Encounter in Rome: Tales from the Road

“OK, I’ll go around the block, and if I don’t find somewhere else, I’ll come back here.”

This might sound like part of a conversation, but this was just me negotiating with myself, with the convincing voice in my head making a mental deal to only look just a little bit further to find a place to eat lunch.

On this brisk day last fall, I was walking around by the Pantheon in Rome, Italy. It’s a pretty popular part of town with visitors, but I didn’t want to end up in a tourist trap restaurant with mediocre fare. I had done research and marked some spots nearby as possibilities, but as I strolled and perused their menus along the way, nothing really inspired me.

It’s the quintessential tourist experience. You’re hot, you’ve been walking around all morning so your feet are getting tired, and your stomach is now grumbling so you’re just hunting for anywhere to sit down for a bit to rest your legs and have your lunch.

This is the point where most people stop at the first place they see and take their chances. And there’s nothing wrong with that.

But if you’ve read other blog posts that I’ve written and gleaned something about my travel style, you know that grabbing a seat at the first available restaurant is not my typical approach. I’ll go somewhere random in a pinch, but especially when I have limited time in a city known for its cuisine, I try to be a bit more discerning with my choices.

And if I’m traveling solo like I was on this trip, I get to decide all on my own how much time and distance I’m willing to trek for a good meal.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Finally I passed one place that wasn’t super exciting, but was certainly good enough and I was getting quite hungry by this point. And this is when I made the deal with myself – that I’d go around one more block to look for alternatives, and then would make a decision and end up *somewhere* for my meal.

Fortunately, as I rounded the corner, there were two more spots across from one another on a cobblestone pedestrian street, and the first one I stopped at had an interesting enough menu to pique my interest. Plus, I was quite hungry, and there was a table available outside so that settled it and I got comfortable.

Normally I would have asked the server for advice on what to order. Especially in Italy, servers will typically steer you to a favorite dish or what is freshest that day, so even if it’s not what you would have picked, it’s often your best bet for a wonderful meal.

I probably should have done that here as well, but after all my trekking I just picked a few things and didn’t have much in the way of expectations for what would arrive in front of me. Luckily for me, lunch was good and I was pleasantly surprised with how beautifully the dishes were presented:

An Encounter in Rome Italy 20161001_133925 (2)An Encounter in Rome Italy 20161001_140323

Once I finished, the server was bustling at the bar inside so instead of waiting for someone to appear to ask for the check (this can take ages it Italy as it’s considered rude to bring a check when someone’s enjoying a meal), I went inside to pay. Since I was planning to pay with my Italian bancomat (debit) card, it was likely I’d have to go inside anyway to use the machine anyway.

It was when I politely requested the check that my whole impression of the meal and restaurant began to shift. In an interaction I had played out many times at restaurants all over Italy, as I’m standing at the coffee bar inside, I was offered dessert and politely declined.

“Oh, but we have these special biscottini made in house that you absolutely must try.”

An offer that is always hard to refuse, so I accepted.

At my first bite into the surprisingly moist yet still crumbly and flavorful cookie, my casual demeanor changes to one of intense concentration. I chew slowly, trying to figure out what exactly is making my taste buds dance with delight. I’m not sure what it is, but the biscottini are truly outstanding and different from anything I’ve ever tried (and that’s saying something, trust me!)

As I start up a nonchalant conversation to try and find out what exactly is it that I’m both savoring and devouring, the waiter insists that I must have some moscato dessert wine, because it is the absolute perfect pairing with the cookie (which of course turns out to be the case, and I’m given quite the healthy pour as you can see):

Biscottini and Moscato Wine An Encounter in Rome Italy 20161001_144853 (2)

I begin sipping away, savoring all of the flavors together, and then I get the real gem: the recipe! Easy to memorize, but hard to follow. No numbers, no details, just the typical Italian approach of a few high-quality ingredients, combined in precisely the right proportion, to fabulous result:

  • White wine
  • Oil
  • Flour
  • Hazelnut

Yup, that’s it. Sounds simple enough, but I don’t know how I would even begin to approach combine those 4 things in the right way and cooking it ‘just so’ to get the result I enjoyed that afternoon.

And keep in mind that this was on all Italian generosity, as I had long paid my bill. I was just having a connection and an experience over food. The Italian way.

*****************************

I’m now back in US after 3 years living in Milan, Italy. I keep trying to explain what it was like living there – the coffee, the food, the wine, the atmosphere on the streets, the people, the hospitality.

My words often fail me. Even though I’ve now had 6+ months of practice fielding those questions, the right response that conveys the spirit of what I’m missing continues to elude me.

It is really hard to explain what living in Italy is like without living there yourself. Strolling the cobblestone streets day after day and engaging in all of those little interactions – at the coffee bar, boarding the tram, in line at the post office – that comprise a day in the life of an Italian (or anyone else who is lucky enough to live there).

For whatever reason, I’ve had a lot of reminders of Italy this week and it is making me miss it terribly, although I’m not sure that “homesick” is the right term for what I have.

Which is why I’m thinking and writing of this wonderful encounter in Rome that was so typically Italian in so many ways – the service I received, the openness of my server to strike up a conversation, & the insistence of trying the house specialty because someone put their heart and soul into its creation. Making the server happy to watch me savoring the biscottini he had raved about. Reflecting the well-known Italian “fact” that if you’re eating, you must also drink for proper enjoyment of both.

And leaving with a full heart and a recipe in my pocket.

*****************************

Have you experienced a similar memorable travel encounter? Share your inspiration in the ‘Comments’ below. In these days of longing and wanderlust, I need all the help I can get!

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An Encounter in Rome Italy

 

What It’s Like Celebrating July 4th Abroad

What It’s Like Celebrating July 4th Abroad

There is something particular about being overseas for a national holiday – especially your country’s Independence Day – and I’ve had my fair share of experience celebrating July 4th abroad. Which for me has always been a very different experience from celebrating at home.

Perhaps my desire to mark the day somehow is due to the many all-American July 4th celebrations I’ve had stateside. As a kid on a road trip with my sister and grandparents, we spent the evening of July 4th in Colonial Williamsburg in Virginia, watching fireworks in a historical American setting with staff milling about in period dress.

As an adult, I lived in Washington, DC for nearly a decade, and spent many Independence Days there. Once spending it in the crowds of people down on the National Mall by all of the monuments. Another year at the top of a hill overlooking the fireworks from a neighborhood spot where everyone had poured out onto the streets. I also enjoyed hosting a barbecue and watching the fireworks from afar for many years with large groups of friends on the rooftop of my apartment building. Eating red, white, and blue colored desserts and taking in the many fireworks displays across the horizon.

And then after so many typically American July 4th celebrations, I moved abroad.

Whether living abroad or simply taking advantage of the day off for the holiday to take a trip overseas, many of you have probably been out of the country for the 4th of July, even if it was just once.

I’ve enjoyed celebrating July 4th abroad many times now, whether it was where I was living at the time, or on a summer trip. Here are a few of the ways I’ve marked the day when I’ve been outside of the US:

Celebrating July 4th Abroad in Perth, Australia

When you live abroad, it’s sort of an unwritten rule that you have one week before and after to properly celebrate a holiday from back home that is just another regular day where you’re living. Especially when it’s a holiday that falls on a weekday.

So in 2012 when I was living in Perth, Australia, my July 4th celebration actually happened a few days early – on July 1st (thanks cell phone camera, for helping me figure that out exactly!). Definitely within that week leeway on either side of the actual date.

I knew the celebration was a carnival, taking place mostly outdoors. And remember that while July is summer in the US, it’s wintertime in Australia. Fortunately Perth has one of the mildest Australian winters, so it was still quite pleasant strolling around.

I knew the event was a carnival, but there were a lot of unexpected ways that the event was an “American” celebration.

Like the American classic cars:

Classic Cars Celebrating July 4th Abroad Perth Australia 2012-07-01 11.39.16Classic Cars Celebrating July 4th Abroad Perth Australia 2012-07-01 11.36.05Jeep Celebrating July 4th Abroad Perth Australia 2012-07-01 11.41.49

Although you typically need to re-fit any cars you bring over to move the steering wheel to the right-hand side like the Australian vehicles, you can get a special dispensation to keep the steering wheel on the left if you have a classic car.

Or the tons of motorcycles, many outfitted with American décor:

Motorcycles Celebrating July 4th Abroad Perth Australia 2012-07-01 11.38.59Motorcycles Celebrating July 4th Abroad Perth Australia 2012-07-01 11.46.50

Yes, there was a carnival, too. A costume contest and an American flag cake and booths all around, including from the local Perth baseball team.

Costume Contest Classic Cars Celebrating July 4th Abroad Perth Australia 2012-07-01 13.12.59

But it was the unique aspects of the day – namely the vehicles – that still stand out in my memory the most.

Celebrating July 4th Abroad over a Road Trip in France

One year the 4th of July fell over a summer road trip. On July 3rd I waved goodbye to the foodie mecca of San Sebastian, Spain, and headed toward a small town across the border in France to stay with family friends of my traveling companion.

This was a British couple with a vacation home in France, and the timing just happened to work out for us to pop in for a night. What I didn’t know was that the couple had just recently become American citizens, after several years living in the US.

So when we first drove up to the gate, this was our welcome:

American Flag Welcome Celebrating July 4th Abroad small town France 20150704_153135 edited (2)

Obviously we had found the right house, and had even been placed in a room in the house meticulously decorated with American memorabilia. However, that was the end of the American-themed part of the day.

We enjoyed a dinner of local specialties with bottles of wine we picked up at a winery just down the road. In the morning, we strolled through a local market and had a typically French start to the morning with cafe au lait and fresh croissants.

Just Another Day Celebrating July 4th Abroad small town France 20150705_093515 edited (2)Market Breakfast Celebrating July 4th Abroad small town France 20150705_094445

Somehow, though, as I reveled in the local French experience, it stood out as a contrast to what the day would have been like had I been in the US instead.

Celebrating July 4th Abroad in Milan, Italy

July 4th last year, which I spent at home in Milan, Italy, had the potential to be my biggest July 4th overseas yet. I had lived in the city nearly three years at that point and knew a ton of other Americans. I was a member of an English-speaking women’s club that had a lot of American members. I was invited to a large Independence Day celebration.

While the day had the potential to be a blowout July 4th, it ended up being incredibly low-key. It was like any other Monday, and although as an American I definitely wanted to celebrate somehow, I did not feel up for the party atmosphere.

So instead I had what for me was the perfect way to mark the holiday. I met up with a small group of American friends locally and we went for dinner together at a restaurant owned by an American friend.

And as my own personal way to mark the day as being different, I conducted a mini act of American rebellion in Italy of wearing flip flops out. Which definitely marks you as an outsider, as this is not how the locals dress when they leave the house in Italy.

Flip Flop Rebellion Celebrating July 4th Abroad Milan Italy 20160704_194716

Although my July 4th in Milan might not sound so exciting, when you’re overseas and national holidays come along, it’s up to you how you would like to celebrate. Sometimes the big organized party will be your speed, other times it’s a quiet meal with close friends.

However you decide to mark the occasion, the important piece for me has always been doing something special and recognizing the day in some way. Making the holiday your own, even if it’s not a typical celebration.

Happy 4th of July!!

Have you ever been in the position of celebrating July 4th abroad? What was the experience like for you? If you’ve always celebrated July 4th stateside, would you ever consider being abroad for the holiday? I’d love to hear your thoughts and about your experiences!

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What it's Like Celebrating July 4th Abroad

Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Berlin’s East Side Gallery is the longest open-air art gallery in the world, where artists have left their mark on an extended section of the original Berlin Wall. Artist got a wide rectangular section of wall as their canvas, and the resulting art is a combination of humor, political satire, and hope. A fitting mix of emotions given the symbolic nature of the wall during the Cold War, and the harsh reality it represented for Berlin’s inhabitants.

I’ve already posted a quite thorough Berlin Cheat Sheet on the blog with my impressions of the city, all the best things to do, restaurants and food to seek out, and thorough tips to make the most of your visit. These images will give you a closer look as to why the city made such an impression on me, and why I left thinking of it as a ‘City of Contradictions.’

The Berlin Wall has been on my mind again lately, as I recently visited a section of the original wall, also adorned with art, in the lobby of a random New York City office building:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BS4kdtIg2G1/?taken-by=travelsavvygal&hl=en

The East Side Gallery of course is the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall. You can get a sense of the length of the East Side Gallery in this shot, although you may have to get pretty close to your screen to see just how far it continues to wrap around alongside the road:

East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0789

In this photo journey through my visit, I’m including the panels that I found most interesting, many of which have incredible detail. I spent around two hours strolling up and down the panels – you could spend more or less depending on how much time you’re interested in spending with each mural.

And you’ll notice that some of my shots include fencing. Over the years since 1990 when the East Side Gallery first opened, there have been some sections obscured by graffiti, and so after a restoration effort, fences have been put up to protect the art.

Here’s what I saw…

German flag with overlay from the Israeli flag:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0763

Portrayal of the Allied Checkpoint Charlie, which connected the two sides of Berlin for those authorized to cross:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0768

Interesting panel, since there is a three-dimensional component with the plant box. Reminiscent of a church for me:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0770

“Save Our Earth” and the incredibly detailed, colorful panel on the left:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0773

Amnesty International dove of peace and chain of captivity:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0783

I’ll let the bold yellow and red here speak for itself:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0784

The panel that was most impactful for me, so I’m including 2 different perspectives. It portrays a “Curriculum Vitae” of the people killed while trying to escape, during each of the years the wall stood from 1961-1989:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0785

Each rose represents one person:East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0786East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0787

I spent quite a bit of time in front of this final panel, what do you make of it?East Side Gallery Berlin Germany DSC_0794

Which panel made the biggest impression on you? Have you been to the East Side Gallery? Any memorable panels I missed?

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Berlin's East Side Gallery in pictures Germany

Best Views in Stockholm, Sweden

Best Views in Stockholm, Sweden

In any new place, I search for a high spot where I can overlook the city or surrounding area, so I knew I’d be seeking out the best views in Stockholm on my visit last summer. I’ll pretty much go anywhere to see a sweeping vista, whether it’s an elevator ride to the top of a tall building (like ascending the Burj Khalifa in Dubai and Berlin’s TV Tower), climbing hundreds of stairs to the top of a tower (like I’ve done in Cremona and Florence) or trekking to the tops of hills (which I did on a random island in Oman and in Plovdiv, Bulgaria).

Yes, I like to find lookout points when I travel. Guilty as charged.

Before visiting Stockholm for the first time, there were many things I didn’t realize. For example, I didn’t know Stockholm was a city on water, composed of over a dozen islands and forming Sweden’s larges archipelago.

This means that in Stockholm there are pretty fabulous views any time you’re on the edge of one of the many islands, or crossing a bridge on foot.  Ditto for any time you’re up one of Stockholm’s hills or sloping streets, where you can get a peek out over the city.  And of course, there are many high-up vantage points as well.

With summer approaching again, Scandinavia will be quite the popular destination in the coming months, although if you haven’t booked a trip yet, consider visiting after summer.

This list of the best views in Stockholm is focused on elevated viewpoints, where you get a sweeping view of the city, and also includes some memorable spots at ground level to take in the scenery. Enjoy!

Best Views

Skeppsholmsbron

This bridge connects the Blasieholmen peninsula of central Stockholm to the island of Skeppsholmen. What makes it worth seeking out for a photo and one of the best views in Stockholm? The many gilded, golden crowns atop the iron bridge railings, which make for a wonderful shot of the city with both the crown and the view:

Skeppsholmsbron Stockholm Sweden DSC_0996

Skinnarviksberget

This highest point in Södermalm is also the highest natural point in central Stockholm, with views to match. There are actually several viewpoints in relatively close proximity, including Ivar Los Park and Katarinahissen (see below), but I like this one the best. This also seems to be the spot locals prefer.

Skinnarviksberget Stockholm Sweden DSC_0732

First, it is further off the beaten path and a bit harder to access – by a dirt path at the end of Gamla Lundagatan street – so there are far fewer people. In fact, the morning that I went up, I was the *only* person there for nearly a half hour, and even then only a few other people arrived. Plus, check out this view:

Skinnarviksberget Stockholm Sweden 20160714_104334

Other Good Vantage Points

Millesgården

Formerly the home of world-renowned sculptor Carl Milles, the Millesgården is open to the public now as an art museum, with a sculpture garden featuring his works. It is from the garden that you’ll get one of the best views of Stockholm on the far side of the central part of the city and out toward the archipelago. Great for a very different perspective of the city:

Millesgården Stockholm Sweden DSC_0668Millesgården Stockholm Sweden DSC_0657

Ivar Los Park

It’s a bit of a stroll to get here no matter how you arrive, but this quaint park with greenery and benches is along the Södermalm coast facing central Stockholm and the island of Gamla Stan, like the Skinnarviksberget view mentioned above as my top lookout spot.

If you don’t have time to make it to Skinnarviksberget, the park offers a very similar view, although you may encounter other tourists when you go. There were a few people when I visited, but if you’re lucky you can still score a seat at one of the many benches and take some time to enjoy this view:

Ivar Los Park Stockholm Sweden DSC_0777Ivar Los Park Stockholm Sweden DSC_0780

Katarinahissen

This was far more popular than the Skinnarviksberget and Ivar Los Park lookouts on Södermalm, since it is right by a metro stop and a bridge from the island of Gamla Stan. Originally known as the Katarina Elevator, unfortunately the elevator is not working right now, although there are wooden stairs that you can climb to the top. Also at the top is the Eriks Gondolen restaurant, where you can grab a coffee or a meal and enjoy one of the best views in Stockholm:

Katarinahissen Stockholm Sweden DSC_0798

Fjällgatan

Still on Södermalm, but on the other side of Gamla Stan, is what was by far the most crowded scenic point, although being further down the coast, the perspective of the city is a bit different. Tour bus after tour bus rounds the corner of the road leading up to the lookout, and offloads dozens of passengers, so it can get quite crowded. I ended up here twice last July, once for a quick stop on a tour bus and once on foot, and it was packed both times.

Fjällgatan Stockholm Sweden DSC_0831

If you stroll away from the corner where the buses line up, you can get a less-crowded view from the small park with a little patch of greenery, but you’ll still have plenty of company. The view remains lovely:

Fjällgatan Stockholm Sweden DSC_0811Fjällgatan Stockholm Sweden DSC_0822

Central Coastline

Walking pretty much anywhere along the water will offer beautiful, and different, views. I enjoyed hugging the coastline of Central Stockholm, starting by the Centralstation train stop and heading east to Skeppholmsbron (see above) and beyond. The coastline of the island of Gamla Stan also offers lovely vistas along the water, especially close to The Royal Palace and entrance to Old Town:

Water Level Stockholm Sweden best views DSC_0098Water Level Stockholm Sweden best views DSC_0148Water Level Stockholm Sweden best views DSC_0168

Of course, there are countless ways to see a city, and while I made it to quite a few stunning viewpoints, I didn’t quite make it everywhere. If you’ve already scoped out the best views in Stockholm above, there are a few other options for lookout spots to explore.

First, there are many boat rides that will give you a whole new perspective on the city, from short loops to longer tours of the archipelago. I was having too much fun exploring on foot to make this a priority during my visit, but it is definitely something to seek out in Stockholm if you have the time.

There are also two other high-up viewpoints that weren’t as high a priority for me. Kaknästornet, the TV tower with an observation deck, was just enough off the beaten path that I didn’t make it there. Also, the very central Stadhuset, the City Hall which also has a lookout tower. I was enjoying the outdoor lookout points in the beautiful, sunny weather during my visit, and limited the time I spent indoors. But both would be great spots to see the city as well.

And if you’d like to read more about what it’s like to visit Stockholm, check out which unexpected food you should seek out in the city and where I had my best meals there.

Do you seek out high viewpoints when you travel, too? Or is there something else that you like to do everywhere you visit? Any other Stockholm views you’d recommend that didn’t make my list? Share in the Comments below.

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Where to Find the Best Views in Stockholm Sweden

How to Spend One Day in Cremona, Italy

How to Spend One Day in Cremona, Italy

Living in Milan, I was always on the lookout for easy day trips from the city, and I just could not pass up the opportunity to check out Cremona. What started on a whim turned into one of the most rewarding day trips I took anywhere during my three years in Italy.

What makes a day in Cremona so incredible? Like Mainz (my favorite day trip from Frankfurt, Germany), Cremona has stunningly beautiful sights to see, all of which can be visited in a single, relaxing day. This makes it a perfect candidate for a day trip, when you can see quite a bit and feel like you’ve covered the main tourist attractions.

I arrived seeking out the world-famous Stradivarius violins, and found so much more to explore and appreciate when I arrived. Even this New York Times article notes, “There’s More to Cremona Than Violins.” Most of the top things to do are around the main square, or piazza, with other sights to see depending on your interests.

That is not to discount the beauty of the violins, though. I spent far longer in the Violin Museum than I typically would, both for the extensive, interactive exhibits and also the sheer beauty of the Stradivarius violins. As happens to me sometimes, I stood awestruck at the incredible beauty and craftsmanship of the violins. Truly mesmerizing, and this is not just blogger hyperbole here. You can read more about this top experience of 2016 for me here in my post about being thankful, and of course below.

Cremona, despite not having a university or nearby wine region, is one of the more impressive places you can spend a day in Italy. A few reasons why…

Things to Do

Cathedral & Baptistery

Cathedral Cremona Italy 20160417_161949Baptistery - Battistero - Cremona Italy 20160417_162135 (2)

Cremona’s Cathedral is quite impressive, dating back to the 12th century and decorated inside with beautiful artwork. The complex is quite large, and each facade has a different appearance to take in. The octagonal Baptistery nearby is formally a Cathedral annex, where children would be baptized before being allowed to enter the Cathedral. It is a fairly bare building possibly more impressive from the outside, but it’s worth popping in if you’ve purchased a combination ticket (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting‘ section below).

Piazza del Commune

Piazza del Commune Cremona Italy 20160417_131847

This is the main piazza in town, where you’ll find the Cathedral, Baptistery, and Bell Tower. However, the piazza itself is quite striking, and there are a variety of open areas with sculptures and other art along its perimeter. Leave aside time just to wander around, especially along the many pedestrian side streets that connect to the square.

Torazzo Bell Tower & Astronomical Clock

Bell Tower Cremona Italy 20160417_161514Bell Tower Statue Cremona Italy 20160417_162603Bell Tower View from the Top 20160417_164422

The Bell Tower and its Astronomical Clock, adjacent to the Cathedral, were two unexpected superlatives of my time in Cremona. The Torazzo of Cremona is the 3rd-tallest brick tower in the world! Not only can you gaze upon it from the Piazza del Commune, but it is also possible to climb its 502 steps to the top. I love being able to get a high viewpoint whenever I can as I travel, and it’s lovely to look over the surrounding countryside.

Astronomical Clock on Bell Tower Cremona Italy 20160417_162030

On the outside facade of the Torazzo is the largest astronomical clock in the world! It tracks the movements of the sun and moon, as well as eclipses. You can get a closer look at its inner mechanism and explore an exhibit about how it works when you climb the tower. Definitely one of the highlights of my day.

Violin Museum (Museo del Violino)

Violin Museum Cremona Italy 20160417_144343

Image: Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons
Image: Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons

This is the main attraction for most visitors to Cremona, and one of the best museums I’ve ever visited. Unfortunately pictures are forbidden inside, however I’ve included a picture above from when some instruments were on loan to another museum.

Highlights of visiting included the detailed and interactive displays on crafting violins, from the most famous ones made by Antonio Stradivari to those crafted by other local artisans. Stradivari even made a pretty fabulously-decorated guitar! I was completely mesmerized by the beauty of his instruments, and just couldn’t take my eyes off of them. You can read more about the experience here in my post about being thankful.

Another of the most interesting parts for me were the instruments on display from the many years of the triennial violin-making competition. Not only could you see the various violins, violas, basses, and cellos on display, but there were snippets of music that had been played on each that you could listen to on the audio guide. And they really did all sound different!

TIP! There are a lot of concerts and special events at the museum, check the schedule online before you go.

TIP! If you’d like to visit during the triennial violin-making competition, the next one is in 2018!

Best Bites

Hosteria 700

Hosteria 700 restaurant Cremona Italy 20160417_135044Hosteria 700 restaurant Cremona Italy 20160417_140742

I sought this restaurant out because it offers a lot of Cremonese specialties, like the stuffed marubini pasta, often filled with a mixture of beef, chicken, and veal. They also have some innovative ways to present Italian ingredients, like the shockingly sweet caramelized onion tatin, with a gelato made of grana cheese. A very elevated and satisfying dining experience for such a small Italian town.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

The easiest way to arrive in Cremona is by train, and most sights are in easy walking distance of the train station. There are many direct trains a day from Milan, as well as other northern Italian towns, like Brescia. Cremona is just over an hour by train from Milan.

When you arrive, a lot of the main sights to see are part of the Cathedral complex. Be sure to ask about combined entrance tickets for discounted admission.

Certainly this is not an exhaustive list of the sights to see in Cremona, and a lot of the beauty I took in was just from strolling around town. If you spend more time or have a more ambitious itinerary, you can seek out some of the other tourist attractions, like the Stradivarius house, the Archaeological Museum, the Po River, and other churches around town.

Have you ever visited a place for a single sight? Would *you* go to Cremona just to see the Stradivarius violins?

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How to Spend One Day in Cremona Italy - Day Trip from Milan

Top Tips to Avoid the Biggest Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Top Tips to Avoid the Biggest Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Every country has its own way of doing things, and Italy is no exception. While some mistakes tourists make in Italy are part of the adventure of travel, other errors can be very time-consuming or expensive to resolve. When I travel, I try to be aware of the most common pitfalls I could possibly encounter, and do some research to avoid them.

Preparing for a trip to Italy? Here’s what you need to know to make the most of your time there, and avoid the mistakes that many tourists make.

TRAVELING AROUND ITALY

  • The most efficient way to get around between cities are the high-speed trains, or regional trains for less-travelled routes. The main train companies are TrenItalia and Italo, and both have English versions of their websites available.
  • If you’re being more flexible with your plans, you can buy your train ticket at the last minute at one of the electronic kiosks, which also offer multiple languages.
  • Don’t plan on waiting until the last train, as sometimes trains are quite delayed or cancelled.

    Train Italy Orvieto DSC_0761

  • If you don’t have a person or turnstile taking your ticket, be sure to validate your train ticket before boarding. There is usually a small box on the train platform where you can insert your ticket to validate. Fines can be high if you don’t, and this is something that does get checked relatively frequently.

RESTAURANTS

  • If there is a particular place you’d like to eat at for lunch or dinner, whether it’s an upscale spot or simply a popular trattoria, make a reservation. You can usually get a reservation the day or two before – or even earlier the same day – but if you show up at dinner time on the night, you might be refused.
  • Usually the first question when you sit down will be about water, whether you want to drink naturale (still water) or frizzante/gassata (sparkling water), so have an answer ready. Italians don’t drink tap water.
  • Service may not be as attentive as in your home country, which is simply the Italian way. If there is something you need – including the check – flag someone down and ask.
  • Some restaurants will bring the bill to the table, others will direct you to pay at the cassa, the cash register.
  • Typically restaurants include a coperto, a cover charge for service and bread, which is listed on the menu and will show up on your bill.

    Restaurant Coperto - Cover Charge for Service and Bread 20160928_214458

  • Tipping is not expected if there is a coperto, although you are welcome to leave small change or an additional tip if you’d like.
  • Don’t refuse your receipt. By law you must have the receipt for 100 meters after leaving the restaurant (this is to ensure that the restaurant has paid taxes, not that you have paid). Yes, I’ve been chased out of a restaurant by a server after leaving my receipt behind.

BARS

  • In Italy, “bar” means a place to get coffee and a pastry, although many will serve alcohol as part of aperitivo. Or first thing in the morning, if you ask…
  • At many bars you pay first, and then show your receipts to the barista to be served.
  • Traditionally, coffee (and your pastry) is consumed standing at the bar in a few quick minutes. You have the option of sitting at some bars, although it is possible you will be charged a coperto (see ‘Restaurants’ section above) if you do. In touristy areas, this might be exorbitant.

    Aperitivo Italy Milan 20161018_194627

  • In the evening, the bar that was your morning coffee shop often morphs into your happy hour spot, where you can enjoy an aperitivo, consisting of a pre-dinner drink and some food, which will range from some small nibbles to a full buffet

WINE TOURISM

  • If you’re wine tasting and would like to buy wine to take home, it helps to have a car to transport the heavy load. Many wineries ship internationally, but prices can be quite high. It can be more cost-effective to pay for extra airline baggage packed with bottles of wine (or utilize your baggage allowance wisely) than to ship them. Plan your wine packing in advance, and you’ll save hundreds of Euros.

    Wine Tourism Italy 2014-06-11 18.09.06 (2)

MISCELLANEOUS

  • In the bathroom, when in doubt, look for a foot pedal (or inconspicuous button on the wall) to flush a toilet or operate the faucet to wash your hands. I’ve seen tourists linger in the bathroom for a long time trying to figure this out!

If you’re really committed to blending in during your visit, you’ll also want to check out my post on the Top 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local. But at a minimum, if you follow the tips above, you won’t be caught with an exorbitant fine for not validating your train ticket or be stuck waiting hours for your server to bring the check at the end of your meal. I’ve seen many mistakes tourists make in Italy, but fortunately with a few tips most can be avoided!

What other things did you wish you had known before traveling to Italy? Anything else I should include? How do you avoid the typical tourist mistakes when you travel? Share your best intel in the Comments below!

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Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

Valpolicella and Soave are two of my favorite Italian wine regions, and conveniently both are a short distance outside the inviting Italian town of Verona, not far from Venice. The Valpolicella region to the north of Verona specializes in various red wines with a unique production method, while the Soave region to the east produces some lovely white wines. Most consider the Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany to be the two areas with the best producers, especially for Italian reds. While both of those regions are relatively close to Milan, it was actually the Valpolicella region where I ended up most often during my three years living in Italy, usually with visitors.

The reds of Valpolicella are in a slightly different style than Super Tuscans or a Piemontese Barolo, but can be more fruity and jammy, and in general more approachable. And I know several wine lovers whose favorite Italian reds come from this area, and these are certainly some of my favorites as well. Since the wine regions around Verona are less frequented by tourists than some of the other areas, it is easier to pop into a cantina without a reservation and taste wine. And you can find delicious wines at a great value, I’d definitely recommend planning to purchase wine as you taste, and having a plan for transporting the bottles back home.

Welcome to Valpolicella wine region Italy (2)

In terms of the Valpolicella region, you’ll typically see 4 main types of red wine as well as a dessert wine called Recioto. All of these are made with different combinations and processing methods of the same main grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella (and sometimes Corvinone). The first, most basic wine is called Valpolicella Classico, the classic version that is not usually aged at all. The Valpolicella Superiore, or superior version, does undergo some aging, and is intended to be a more refined version of Valpolicella.

The fourth wine (yes, I skipped #3 on purpose) called Amarone is where the typical drying process of the Valpolicella region comes into play. When the grapes are harvested in the fall, usually around September or October, instead of being pressed right away, they are spread out and left to dry for several months, which intensifies the flavor of the grapes. Then sometime around January the grapes will actually be pressed and begin the multi-year aging process. Ripasso then is partway between a Valpolicella Superiore and an Amarone, since it involves the leftover pressed grapes from Amarone being mixed with Valpolicella Classico wine. The dessert wine Recioto is more similar to the straight Amarone, with residual sugars for sweetness (and this can vary from quite sweet to more balanced depending on the producer).

You might think that because of the somewhat linear progression of red wine production in Valpolicella, that everyone would like Amarone the best, then Ripasso, and so on. But that’s actually not how things shake out at all! Even without taking external factors like winery and the harvest year into play, some wine lovers prefer Ripasso while others prefer Amarone, depending on their personal tastes. Then when you consider the year of production and each winemaker’s approach, your favorite at a particular winery might be the Valpolicella Classico or Superiore. It all depends.

Which is why I advocate for doing a wine tasting when you visit, even if you’ve been before, since you may prefer different wines than last time (even at the same winery). Usually with each visit I was trying the wines from a different production year, and I’ve made repeat visits to most of the wineries on this list. So I’ve tasted different versions of the same wine over the years depending on what has recently been bottled and is available. Even at the same producer, my tastes as to which wines are my favorite have typically changed with each season. So taste before you buy, every time you go.

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That same advice holds true for the Soave region on the other side of Verona: taste during each visit, as the wine changes quite a bit from year to year, even at the same producer. Soave itself is a white wine made principally from the Garganega grape, although other white grapes are sometimes included in small amounts. Like with Valpolicella reds, there are different levels of Soave – including a Superiore – depending on whether it is aged and the details of the blend.

Many Soave wineries also have vineyards in the area growing red grapes as well, so even if you go to taste white wines, you’ll be able to try their various Valpolicella reds as well. You don’t see much Soave wine in Valpolicella, although some of those wineries will produce other types of white wine. And a recent trend in the Valpolicella region is to use the same Amarone process of drying the grapes for months, but with different types of red grapes than you’d typically see, resulting in some of my favorite sips.

I’ve had some pretty fabulous wine tastings in the Valpolicella and Soave regions over my many visits. Here are my favorite places to go, listed alphabetically by region:

Valpolicella

Accordini Igino

 

Accordini Igino Valpolicella wine Italy DSC_0166

Reservations: Not needed Mon-Fri, Required on Saturday

Tasting: Free, can also reserve a paid tasting paired with local food products

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

The staff is friendly and welcoming at this nearly 200-year old winery, with a light and inviting tasting room. The red wines typical of the region are solid, and they produce a few other white and red wines. I especially like their Recioto dessert wine, which isn’t sickly sweet but actually quite well-balanced.

Manara

Manara winery Valpolicella Italy DSC_0176

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Bianco del Veneto, Rosso del Veneto, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

If you’re a non-Italian speaker, be sure to contact the winery in advance, as the one person in the tasting room does not always speak English. Their Valpolicella range is quite good, as is their Bianco del Veneto, or white wine from the region. But my absolute favorite, and the wine I can’t get enough of is their Rosso del Veneto, a jammy red produced from non-typical grapes in the Valpolicella style of drying the grapes first to intensify the flavors. Even if it’s not offered, be sure to ask to taste this gem, the Guido Manara!

Scriani

Scriani winery Fumane Valpolicella Italy (2)

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

This family-run winery is welcoming, and has a beautiful tasting room and cellar where you’ll taste the wines. I think I’ve visited at least three or four times, and I like their wines better each time I go. Their straight Corvina is quite good, along with the full line of Valpolicella wines.

Speri

Speri winery Valpolicella Italy DSC_0180

Reservations: Not needed, although there is the option to book in advance to visit the cellar

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Sant’Urbano, Amarone, Recioto

Another family-run place, there are usually several people on hand to provide a tasting, and I’ve never had to wait more than a few minutes for an English-speaking member of the family to guide me and my visitors. The wines are excellent, and I especially like their Sant’Urbano, which is partway between a Ripasso and an Amarone in taste. They have an excellent annual olive oil production for the family, with excess bottles on sale at the winery, so take advantage if they’re still available when you go.

Soave

Cantina di Soave

Cantina di Soave 20141016_155217

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting of 5 wines, for a modest fee

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

Founded in the late 1800s, this cantina, or winery, is actually a collective of grape producers from the area, with all grapes having to meet minimum quality requirements to be used in their production. You’ll only taste a handful of wines at the end of the tour, but they are delicious, and the winery offers a wider range of wines for purchase in their shop. And the winery itself is quite beautiful.

Monte Tondo

Reservations: Not needed, although it does get crowded sometimes; must reserve for tour

Tasting: Free, fee for the tour + tasting

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

The experience visiting Monte Tondo without a reservation has been varied for me, depending on the number of other guests. If it’s not crowded, you’ll get very attentive pours and descriptions, and it can be more rushed if you’re there during a busy period or when there is a group also visiting. It’s still a good option to drop in and sample a variety of Soave whites, although there is the possibility of guaranteeing dedicated attention by reserving a formal tour and tasting with cheese and charcuterie pairing for a fee.

TIP! Other than the dates of Cantine Aperte in May and September, most wineries are closed on Sundays.

If you’ve never tried a Valpolicella red wine or a Soave white, buy a bottle (or several) to try the next time you’re at the store. And if you’re planning a trip to Italy or happen to live nearby, the wine regions around Verona are fabulous spots to go wine tasting, even if you haven’t planned anything in advance.

Happy tasting!

Lana

Any questions you still have about wine tasting in Valpolicella and Soave? Other favorite wineries you think belong on this list? Hit me up with any questions or intel you have about the region and its wines in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Wineries to Visit in the Valpolicella and Soave Regions of Italy

11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice

11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice

If you’ve never been to Venice, it’s hard to envision what it would mean to have a city built on a series of islands connected by canals and waterways. No motorized vehicles are allowed, which means that some everyday things you take for granted look just a bit different here:

Ambulance

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Building Entrance

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Construction Site

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Delivery Vehicle

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Metro

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Metro Stops

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Parking Spot

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Police Patrol

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Taxi

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What other things did you notice were different in Venice?

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11 Things That Are Different in Venice Italy in pictures

10 Amazing Things You Probably Didn’t Know about Stockholm

10 Amazing Things You Probably Didn’t Know about Stockholm

I consider myself an avid and fairly knowledgeable traveler, yet on my first trip to Stockholm last year for a blogging conference, I realized how woefully inadequate my knowledge of Stockholm and Sweden really was. Other than devouring The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo book series that is set there, what did I really know about the city?

Scandinavia for me, even when I was living in Europe, was always put off as a travel destination because there were cities I could get to for cheaper for a weekend escape. Unless I was going skiing or to see the northern lights, winter was probably not the right season for a trip, and the timing never seemed to be right during summer. Although after having visited Stockholm in July, I now think that Stockholm would be even better to visit outside of summer, maybe during the spring or fall.

Perhaps because I had so few expectations, was Stockholm able to surprise me with so many quirks and unexpected twists of history that crossed the city’s path. From sights and foods that I had no clue about, to observations about the city and Swedes in general, I left with a whole new appreciation for Stockholm. Compiling this list is making me yearn for a return visit, and will make you want to visit as soon as you can!

Some things that surprised me…

#1 | Stockholm is a City on Water

City on Water Stockholm Sweden DSC_0798City on Water Stockholm Sweden DSC_0003

When I say this, I don’t mean that Stockholm has a river running down the middle. The whole city is made of up islands! It’s not the only city with this moniker, but many refer to Stockholm as the ‘Venice of the North.’ Stockholm is made up of a bunch of 14 islands and 57 bridges, all of which compose part of Sweden’s largest archipelago. I loved crossing the bridges on foot to move between the sights on the different islands, and there are some stunning views across the water, as you can see. I really was clueless on this one before my visit, so don’t feel bad if you were, too! I always pictured Scandinavian cities as having quaint buildings in close proximity, but I was totally unprepared to visit a city I thought of as being squarely on land that instead had waterways seemingly everywhere you looked.

#2 | What’s the currency?

Cash Stockholm Sweden DSC_0896Cash Stockholm Sweden DSC_0838

I’m used to handling currency with the faces of serious historical figures or past presidents, prime ministers, and royalty. Sweden? They put Swedish figures of all flavors on their money, from movie stars to authors, including multiple women! Pictured above is the 20 kronor note is Astrid Lindgren, author of Pippi Longstocking (who you can also see pictured on the bill if you look closely). Other current banknotes in circulation depict Greta Garbo and Ingmar Bergman. But as cool as the cash is (to me as a foreigner, anyway), there is a strong move toward using cards and not cash. Credit cards are accepted pretty much everywhere, for any size transaction, and some places won’t even take cash! Check out that sign above from Fotografiska, a Stockholm photography museum that won’t accept cash for its admission.

#3 | The World’s Longest Art Exhibit

Image: stephmcg via Wikimedia Commons
Image: stephmcg via Wikimedia Commons

I’ve seen art in metro stations before, but the sheer scope of the art in Stockholm’s 110 kilometers of subway stops has led to it being called the ‘World’s Longest Art Exhibit.’ Originally conceived as a way to bring art to the people, over 90 of Stockholm’s 100 subway stations have artists’ works, each specifically designed for the station and covering many different themes and types of art. This gallery with photographs of different station art gives a sense of how colorful and varied the artists’ approaches have been over the years, and in some cases, how the final artwork is an all-encompassing experience for those passing through the station.

#4 | Stockholm Resurrected a Ship After Over 300 Years at the Bottom of the Sea

Vasa Museum Stockholm Sweden DSC_0163Vasa Museum Stockholm Sweden DSC_0454

The most famous shipwreck I had never heard of before? The 1628 sinking of the Vasa warship just over a kilometer after it departed on its maiden voyage. You might wonder if it was under attack or perhaps had struck something and then sunk? Nope. Covered in cannons, the boat was a bit top-heavy, and tragically tipped over and sunk after some wind gusts caused water to gush in and the ship couldn’t right itself. Many onlookers had crowded Stockholm’s shores to see the ship off, so the tragedy was witnessed by many, with 30 of the crew perishing in the accident. After several failed attempts at the time to recover the ship, it lay nearly forgotten until centuries later.

The 1st cool thing – Sweden raised the ship after 333 years! This was no small feat, as they raised the entire ship, not just bringing up the sections piecemeal. The 2nd cool thing – how they preserved the ship once it was recovered. Apparently you can’t just take a ship out of water after several hundred years and expect it to be like new. For 17 straight years, the ship was continuously hosed with a special solution to keep it preserved and prevent cracking as it dried. The combination of the brackish water (not quite as salty as an ocean) and cold temperatures meant that when the ship was raised, its contents were incredibly well-preserved. Apparently the waters surrounding Stockholm were also quite polluted during that time, keeping away many of the critters that would have otherwise consumed the wood. And today you get to visit the continued preservation home of the Vasa ship, where you can see the intricate wood ornamentation up close at Stockholm’s Vasa Museum, constructed around the ship.

#5 | Behold, the Cardamom Bun

Kardemummabullar Cardamom Buns Stockholm Sweden 20160713_103433Kardemummabullar Cardamom Buns Stockholm Sweden 20160717_125815

Sure, you’ve heard of a cinnamon bun, and maybe even knew from visiting your local IKEA store that cinnamon buns are a Swedish thing. What you probably didn’t realize is that when you are in Stockholm the more common (and in my opinion, more delicious) sweet bun is actually the cardamom bun. If you’re not familiar, cardamom is an aromatic spice that shows up in chai tea and that I’ve only ever used before for cooking Indian recipes like curry. So what on earth is it doing as the main spice to accompany the sweets enjoyed during fika, the Swedish coffee break?

Legend has it that cardamom was introduced to Scandinavia by the Vikings quite some time ago, and now cardamom is all the rage in breads and other pastries there. I had at least 1 cardamom bun a day while I was in Stockholm, and they are just the right mixture of savory and sweet for me. After all of my reckless consumption research, check out my post on the Best Bites in Stockholm for where I enjoyed my favorite version.

#6 | Swedes take Design Very Seriously

Swedish Design IKEA Stockholm Sweden DSC_0625Swedish Design Stockholm Sweden DSC_0027

For many, IKEA is synonymous with Swedish design and with good reason. The company’s streamlined approach has made millions of people all across the world familiar with assembling an IKEA bookshelf or table. It’s not just the result of a designer making a pretty drawing, though. As you can see above, the steps of a homemaker were traced and recorded, leading to the design of an IKEA kitchen that would be as efficient as possible. There is also a sense of design even in the public spaces around Stockholm. From outside gathering areas to the quotes you can see above that were interwoven into street pavement, it is all about the little touches and detail that enhance your everyday experience.

#7 | Sweden was Neutral During World War II, But Played an Important Role

Raoul Wallenberg Cash Stockholm Sweden DSC_0959

Since Sweden was officially neutral during the Second World War, I don’t think I had given much thought to any role it might have had. However, there are many reminders around the city of Stockholm of ways that Sweden played a part. During the war, Sweden gave asylum to nearly 1,000 Norwegian Jews and accepted (and saved) nearly the entire Danish Jewish population after Denmark became occupied by the Nazis. And commemorated in the Stockholm memorial pictured above is Raoul Wallenberg, a Swedish diplomat stationed in Budapest during the war who issued protective passports to tens of thousands of Jews there. He was supposedly captured by the Soviets before the end of the war, and never resurfaced, with a formal declaration of death only just being issued in late 2016.

#8 | Nobel’s Legacy in Stockholm

Alfred Nobel Stockholm Sweden 20160715_164313

I follow the hoopla surrounding the Nobel prize winners each year, but I don’t think it clicked that with the exception of the Nobel Peace Prize (which is given in Oslo, Norway) all of the other prizes are awarded in Stockholm. The annual banquet is held at Stockholm City Hall, and you can visit the Hall there that serves as the current venue for the illustrious meal. Stockholm also boasts a Nobel Museum that I visited, with many significant objects on display that past prize winners donated and information about their contributions. Honestly, the museum was quite outdated, but I geeked out anyway. And for any future visits, a major modernization effort for the museum is currently in the works.

#9 | Gourmet Hot Dogs Everywhere You Turn

Korv Stockholm Sweden DSC_0143Korv Stockholm Sweden 20160716_153901

I was ready for the Swedish food – cinnamon buns, meatballs, cured salmon, lingonberry jam, but . . . hot dogs?!? And we’re not just talking one or two different varieties, here. Many vendors I saw had dozens of different varieties of Swedish hot dog or korv, each with its own unique blend of spices combined with different types of meat. Korv definitely made my list of ‘Unexpected Foods to Seek Out in European Cities’ and with the perfect spicy, meat blend on a toasted baguette and the right mix of condiments, this also ended up being one of the best things I ate during my visit. Head to my post on Stockholm’s Best Bites for where I enjoyed the best hot dog of the trip.

#10 | A Whole Museum Dedicated to ABBA

ABBA Museum Stockholm Sweden DSC_0172ABBA Museum Stockholm Sweden 20160715_205846

ABBA, the 70s pop group that took the world by storm with chart toppers like “Mamma Mia” and “Dancing Queen,” formed in Stockholm. So I guess it shouldn’t have come as a surprise that there is an entire museum dedicated to not only their music, but the outrageous outfits and good time that they inspired. Entering immediately transports you to the 70s, with bell bottoms and bright colored lights everywhere you look. It’s hugely interactive, from karaoke opportunities to starring in your own music video where you get to dance along to the ABBA hits. And if you’re like me, the catchy tunes will be swirling around in your head for days afterward.

 

It’s not often that a city surprises me as much as Stockholm did. Some of the things I discovered might have come up in more thorough research before my trip, but other items on my list I feel like I only would have learned by visiting and exploring in person. The beauty of travel =)

What was the last travel destination that caught *you* by surprise? Anything else that surprised you about Stockholm that didn’t make my list? Share in the ‘Comments’ below.

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10 Amazing Things You Probably Didn't Know about Stockholm that Will Make You Want to Visit NOW

Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London

Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London

The town of Bath, an easy train ride from London, lived up to and far exceeded my mental picture of what it would be like to spend a few days in a quaint British town. Trying to coordinate visiting two different friends in London this past fall (and seeing an NFL game in London in the process!) I ended up with two packed weekends and no plans in between. Which didn’t seem like the worst outcome to me, especially since the value of the pound had fallen quite a bit by then following the Brexit vote. So it just became a matter of how I would spend the days in between.

I’ve been to London a number of times, but have never really ventured much outside of the city (other than visiting Stonehenge back in 2007). After polling a bunch of British friends, the most frequent suggestion I received was to go to the town of Bath. The site of the only natural hot springs in the United Kingdom, if the town was good enough to be beloved by the Roman Empire, surely I could find a few things to do over a couple of days in town. Plus, although I didn’t realize this before making my plans, the entire town of Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the end, Bath really wowed me, and I felt like I had a variety of interesting things to do, time to relax, and ate some really great food along the way. Bath is also a popular family destination, and my time there was quite crowded as it coincided with a school holiday week (who knew that ‘half-term’ was a cause for vacation?). So if I fell in love with the town on a busy week, just imagine how much you’ll love it when you go.

Things to Do

Around Town

Bath Abbey

Bath Abbey Bath UK DSC_0383Bath Abbey Bath UK DSC_0651

Located in the town’s central pedestrian area, the Abbey is not to be missed. The interior is filled with high arches and colors streaming in through the stained glass windows, but even more intriguing is the Tower Tour that will take you to the hidden stairwells, the bell ringing chamber, and onto the roof for excellent views in all directions.

Bath Abbey Tower Tour Bath UK DSC_0613

Jane Austen House

Although I did not visit, I’m including the Jane Austen House on my list because it is one of Bath’s most popular attractions. Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years, and while she supposedly did not like it, she did end up setting two of her novels in Bath – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. The house has period furnishings and tells of Jane’s time in Bath.

The Roman Baths

Roman Baths Bath UK DSC_0397

Once the Romans discovered the natural thermal springs of Bath, they did the only logical thing – they built a spa! Not to be confused with the modern spa (see below), this is the incredibly well-preserved historical site. It’s a huge complex that will take a couple of hours to fully explore, as you progress through the temple and various treatment rooms of ancient times. The audioguide is excellent, and offers different perspectives, including some commentary by one of the funniest authors I’ve ever read, Bill Bryson. Be sure to take a (small) taste of the thermal spring water at the end before you leave.

Thermae Bath Spa

Thermae Bath Spa Bath UK DSC_0626

With pools fed by the natural hot springs, this is a world-class spa to have a relaxing several hours during your stay in Bath. There are steam rooms with different calming aromas, pools of different temperatures and with jets to soothe sore muscles, and a hot pool on the roof with an expansive view of town. In addition to the several hours of lounging in the different pools that was included in my package, I also had an excellent massage here.

TIP! If you will be in Bath on a weekend or during school holidays, book ahead of time to ensure that you can get in to the spa.

TIP! As long as no masseuses call in sick, additional slots may open up in the morning for the same day. Call the reservation line first thing in the morning if you haven’t been able to reserve in advance.

TIP! There are a lot of good package deals including massages, especially mid-week. If you’re not sure which one to choose, I’d definitely recommend either talking through the options and their relative prices with someone over the phone or in person at the spa before you reserve.

Off the Beaten Path

The Holburne Museum

Holburne Museum Bath UK 20161024_161011Holburne Museum Bath UK 20161024_164157

This is one of my favorite museums of all time! I’m not always a museum person, but I’m so glad I strolled a bit out of the center to arrive here. The main collection is free, and has so much character and a wealth of interesting items that Sir William Holburne collected during his lifetime. I didn’t have nearly enough time, so I’d recommend coming early enough in the day that you have the time to be leisurely.

TIP! Open all of the drawers in the main collection, as some of the most interesting tidbits and interactive displays were inside.

Prior Park Landscape Garden

I didn’t make it to this National Trust site as it’s a bit outside of the city and I ran out of time, but it looks absolutely beautiful from the pictures I’ve seen, especially of the Palladian Bridge located there. I’d say it’s worth the time going from town on public transit, which looks pretty straightforward, and certainly is a place to pop into if you have a car.

Royal Crescent

Royal Crescent DSC_0518

The Royal Crescent is a quite lengthy curved section of connected houses, which is distinctive-looking both for its curvature and sheer size. The math geek in me can’t help but point out that it is semi-elliptical, not semi-circular. The entire Royal Crescent was built in the late 1700s, and the house that stands at No. 1 Royal Crescent is actually a museum you can visit, with period furnishings.

Royal Victoria Park

Royal Victoria Park DSC_0500

If you’ve spent a bit of time exploring in town, this park that is a relatively easy walk from the center and is a great spot to get a dose of greenery and stroll in nature. I spent a bit of time wandering one of my mornings, and it was a great way to have a relaxing start to my day. It is also notable for being the first park named after the 11-year old (not-yet-Queen) Victoria.

Best Bites

Boston Tea Party

Boston Tea Party Bath UK 20161025_091042Boston Tea Party Bath UK 20161025_091906

A cute, centrally-located cafe where I enjoyed breakfast one of my mornings, there is an array of coffee, tea, pastries, and breakfast dishes to choose from. I enjoyed their sweetcorn hash, with haloumi, poached eggs, and avocado. A great savory way to energize for a busy day of sightseeing.

The Bridge Coffee Shop

The Bridge Coffee Shop Bath UK 20161024_171744

On the way from town to the Holburne Museum (see above), this coffee shop serves up great hot beverages, although the big draw is the lovely view of the river. Even if the tables on the river side of the shop are taken when you arrive, keep an eye out for departing guests so you can relocate to take in the scenery as you sip.

Chaiwalla Indian Street Food

Chaiwalla Indian Street Food Bath UK 20161025_125651

Right in the heart of town, the vegetarian Indian food served here at super-reasonable prices will satisfy your hunger. The friendly owner/chef can help you decide between the excellent options, or just keep an eye on the dishes prepared to order ahead of you for a sense of which flavorful and delicious option you’d like to order. Conveniently, there are several benches across the street to enjoy your takeaway meal.

Olé Tapas

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Oh my goodness, you must come here for dinner! Recommended to me by a friend who lives in London, it’s a really great Spanish tapas spot that was quite crowded when I went. Fortunately as a solo traveler I didn’t have to wait long before being able to snag a seat at the bar, but if you’re in a party larger than one, you probably want to reserve a table in advance as the space is small. The tapas are excellent, the staff is friendly, and anything you order off their special gin cocktail menu (ask for it if needed) will be crafted with incredible care and wow you with its unique flavor combinations.

Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum

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Located in one of the oldest houses in Bath, you’re likely to encounter a line out the door to dine in for one of Bath’s specialty buns. Fortunately, if you’re not interested in dining in, you can bypass the line to visit the display area downstairs with some history of the house and the bun, as well as purchase a freshly-baked Sally Lunn bun. The bun has a crust around the outside, is like an airy brioche inside, and comes in one size only that is as big as your head!

The Scallop Shell

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Come here for the same reason as everybody else – their award-winning fish & chips. The fish is quite fresh, and unlike some other spots, you get a choice of the type of fish to be fried up with your chips. You can also get your dishes to take away, which can be an appealing option when the restaurant is busy and the line is long.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Bath was a great place to spend a few days, and certainly one of the things that stands out for me was how easy transportation was both to get to Bath and once you arrived. And the town is definitely set up for visitors, with user-friendly pedestrian maps posted in several spots around town. There are plenty of coffee shops around as well, with proper espresso-based drinks as well as the tea options you’d expect in England.

TIP! The buses within Bath are cheap and easy to use, so if you’re traveling a long distance or are simply tired of walking, take advantage. My guesthouse was a bit far from the train station, so I also took a bus when I was arriving and departing with my luggage.

TIP! Bath is a popular family destination, so it will be significantly more crowded during school holidays. Check for the dates of local holidays so you can book accordingly.

TIP! Although the timing wasn’t right during my visit, there are quite a few live theatre performances that take place in Bath. You can peruse the options here. There are also lots of restaurants with pre-theatre meal specials.

Have you been to Bath? What were the highlights for you? Or do you have a different favorite trip for a few days outside of London? Share in the ‘Comments’ below!

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How to Spend Two Days - 48 Hours - in Bath UK

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