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How to Make the Most of a Weekend in Barcelona

How to Make the Most of a Weekend in Barcelona

Impressions

Barcelona might have been the first city I visited after moving to Europe when I actively solicited recommendations on Facebook from friends about what to do and where to eat. This was long before Travel Savvy Gal was even a bud of an idea, but even then I took what is still my approach: if I’m going to travel, I like to travel well. To me, this doesn’t mean doing the most expensive or exclusive things necessarily, but instead getting a full and rich experience of a particular place. Ten comments on my post and multiple private messages later, I knew I was wise to inquire. I was inundated with suggestions from well-travelled American friends, friends living around Europe, and even a friend from South Africa. So why is Barcelona such a beloved (and well-visited) city across continents?

Thinking back on my weekend exploring Barcelona, I see sunny skies, strolling along lengthy boulevards, the expanse of the Mediterranean, and the vibrancy of the food. I think it’s something about coastal cities that there is this open possibility that comes with every day. A feeling that makes me smile when I think of Barcelona.

I’m not sure if it was because my one and only visit to Barcelona was in springtime, or because it was my first time visiting Spain, but just entering the city put a lightness in my step. The weather was warm but not hot, and the bustle of people made me feel caught up in the bright colors and vivacity of the city. I had such a wonderful time exploring, and know you will, too!

Things to Do

There is a ton to take in in Barcelona, but you can really have a leisurely weekend and see quite a lot. Or squeeze most things in with a more ambitious schedule or by spending an extra day. Here are my top picks for what to do during your visit:

Around Town

We just happened upon a processional walking past the Cathedral
We just happened upon a processional walking past the Cathedral

Cathedral

A stunning Gothic cathedral very centrally located, this is one of the spots to definitely explore. Check out the website linked above for the various visiting house – sometimes it’s free to enter, other times there is a donation required.

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Old Jewish Quarter & Medieval Synagogue
Not far from the Cathedral, you can explore the old streets and also visit the medieval synagogue, one of the oldest in Europe. It is small and is more like seeing an archaeological excavation than seeing a modern house of worship, so a great window into Barcelona’s past.

Museo Picasso

I really enjoyed this museum, the only one dedicated to Picasso’s works during his lifetime. He first moved to Barcelona as a teenager with his family, and spent later years there as well.

La Rambla

This is a street, which is not your typical tourist recommendation, however this came up with almost everyone who recommended Barcelona sights to me. It is a large sprawling boulevard that connects the Plaça de Catalunya in the center to the waterfront, is a popular spot for strolling, and has many things to see along the way:

(I've never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before)
(I’ve never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before)

La Boqueria market. See the colorful produce on offer in Barcelona, and the market is also a great spot to stop for a drink or a meal (see “Best Bites” section below).

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Plaça Reial. This large plaza adorned with palm trees reminds me of many others and does not seem distinct to Barcelona, but has a lively scene or restaurants along its perimeter and is worth a quick peek as you stroll down La Rambla.

Mirador de Colom. Right before you get to the waterfront, there is a tower of Christopher Columbus dominating the center of a roundabout. Snap a few pictures before heading to the water’s edge.

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Waterfront. A pedestrian walkway makes the stroll along Barcelona’s waterfront as comforting as any boardwalk you enjoyed strolling growing up.

Off the Beaten Path

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Casa Battlo

Gaudi, a Spanish architect who designed many buildings around Barcelona, may be the most famous thing about Barcelona. Casa Battlo is one of the houses he designed, a bit off the beaten path, but not too far from the city center and with a ton of rooms open to the public across many levels, including an audioguide.

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La Sagrada Familia

Although still currently unfinished, this Catholic church designed by Gaudi is possibly his most iconic creation in the city. It is a long walk or short metro ride from the center, and is probably the most popular attraction in Barcelona. See the “Amazing Views” section below for more on accessing the view from the top.

TIP! Also off the beaten path are other Gaudi creations, including Casa Milà and Park Güell, the latter also providing an elevated view of the city.

Image: Pixabay
Image: Pixabay

Magic Fountain of Montjuïc

This light and fountain show only runs on Thursday-Saturday nights (Wednesday-Sunday in summer), so if you are spending the weekend in Barcelona it’s a perfect time to check out the fountain choreography and changing lights set to musical medleys.

Amazing views

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Towers of La Sagrada Familia

There is a lift that brings you up to the towers of the church for a high vantage point, and is worth organizing in advance as entrance capacity is more restricted than the church itself. More details are linked above.

Parc del Mirador del Poble Sec

This and other nearby gardens in the Poble Sec neighborhood of Barcelona offer wide views of the city and waterfront, and are a refreshing break as the green spaces are frequented more typically by locals than tourists.

Best Bites

Barcelona, like many parts of Spain, is all about the tapas (small plates) and the wine. This approach to eating is perfectly suited to me because I love getting to try lots of different dishes and finding a tasty accompaniment to wash it all down. In Barcelona, I felt like there was a focused approach to each traditional small plate, bringing forth flavor combinations to give you pause, and local wine that pairs so well with the typical cuisine. And I was fortunate enough to travel with a friend who is a kindred spirit when it comes to seeking out delicious meals. The top places I enjoyed during my stay:

Traditional Tapas

Papas bravas, baccala' del dia, y vino
Papas bravas, baccala’ del dia, y vino

Whether you eat here or not, this market off of the famous La Rambla boulevard is definitely worth a visit. In addition to vendors selling incredibly fresh produce, there are a lot of stands with stools or nearby tables where you can eat a sit-down meal. I squeezed in to the last spot at the bar at El Quim for a tasty Friday lunch, when I was still flying solo.

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This was one of the places recommended to me by a friend, and became the default choice for Sunday lunch as one of the few places open that day. It was so crowded when we first entered that there was half an instinct to turn right around and find a calmer place, but waiting had its rewards. The service was very friendly and our server made great recommendations, and all of the dishes were well-executed versions of classic tapas. The octopus dish was especially memorable.

Innovative Tapas

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I knew in advance that La Pepita does not take reservations (“sin reserva”), but arriving for a late lunch on a Saturday meant being able to be seated immediately. This is not your traditional take on tapas, but the restaurant is true to the principles of putting complementary flavors together on the plate that give you pause to savor each bite. The staff was also very welcoming, making for an excellent overall experience.

Dessert & Drinks

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It’s been a while now, but this pastry shop won “best chocolate cake in the world” back in 2005, and they are still serving up the special Xabina cake slice, with many layers of texture and flavor. Not far from El Xampanyet (see above) and worth seeking out.

  • El Born & Gracia neighborhoods

No particular bar stands out to me for after-dinner drinks although I frequented a few, but these two neighborhoods have lively nightlife scenes and are great areas to walk around and then you are free to pop into whatever place strikes your fancy.

On the high end

This was a budget weekend away, so I did not visit any “fancy” restaurants, however I would be remiss to not mention two very world-renowned spots for those who might be interested:

  • Tickets Bar – If you are not new to the foodie scene, you’ve heard of Ferran Adrià of El Bulli fame. When El Bulli was open, it was considered by many to be the best restaurant in the world, receiving a million reservation requests for just a few thousand dining slots annually for their molecular gastronomy experiments on a plate. The Adrià brothers have Tickets Bar as their latest project, with reservations available online two months in advance.

 

 

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Shopping

I am not usually a person who buys a lot of souvenirs or is that into shopping as I travel, but Barcelona has so many wonderful things at great prices, that I would definitely leave extra room in your bag to take your purchases home. I had not planned ahead, so kept my buying modest: I bought a scarf that I wear often, an earring and bracelet set, as well as two Gaudi-decorated espresso glasses with spoons. But if I had more space, there were also great artist shops all around and really interesting and beautiful clothes for great prices. Next time…

 

Have you visited Barcelona before? What is your favorite part about visiting Spain? Or what you’re most looking forward to on your first trip? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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How To Spend 48 Hours - A Weekend in Barcelona Spain

Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

Europe overall is quite festive for the holidays, especially with the prevalence of Christmas markets, each with a different flavor depending on the country you’re in. I’ve already written about how to enjoy Milan for the holidays, covering the concerts and markets and special events that extend from early December into January. But of course, you’ll need plenty of snacks and drinks to keep you going through the hours on your feet in the cold, winter air as you do your holiday shopping.

There is plenty of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food that is part of everyday Milanese cuisine, from polenta to meat stews to risotto. But for me, it’s the hot beverages and seasonal desserts of Milan and its outdoor markets that really nurture the soul at holiday time. Here are the foods and drinks I always seek out to get into the holiday spirit:

Just in case you weren't sure at the first three names...

Vin Brulé

This is what the Italians call mulled wine, which I always found interesting because while the name sounds French, the French actually refer to it as vin chaud (hot wine). In any case, the best spot to find vin brulé is at one of Milan’s many holiday markets, where the hot wine will have had time to steep in the many spices that give it such a holiday aroma. There is no shortage of stands selling vin brulé, so follow your nose.

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Roasted Chestnuts

Growing up in America and listening to songs about “chestnuts roasting on an open fire,” it was one of those lyrics that just sounded good. Fast forward to living in Milan – people really do roast chestnuts, and this is one of the most common street vendors you’ll see at holiday time pretty much everywhere, and especially at any outdoor Christmas market. It is such a smoky, nutty taste of winter, and is a product you can’t usually find at other times of year, so take advantage while you can.

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Cioccolata Calda

Hot chocolate in Milan is closer to a solid than a liquid, with actual chocolate melted into a deliciously thick concoction usually “eaten” with a spoon and occasionally sipped. It’s a bit heavier than having a cup of vin brulé, but is a very satisfying way to warm you up and fulfill your craving for something sweet. Cioccolata calda is widely available at holiday markets, and also can be found at nearly every coffee bar. If you don’t see a sign advertising it, ask – they probably have it.

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Panettone/Pandoro

Panettone is a Milanese holiday dessert that you only see in December and early January. It’s like a much airier version of a fruitcake, with a soft, wispy, yeasty dough dotted with canditi – candied pieces of fruit. If you’re like me and don’t like the canditi, you can always opt for the Northern Italian cousin pandoro, which is minus the fruit and raisins.

A slice or whole loaf of panettone is widely available at any of the holiday markets, but ask any Milanese and they’ll tell you that the best version you’ll ever eat comes from Pasticcieria Marchesi. (It was the delectable Marchesi version that was happily devoured at the last holiday party I hosted, pictured above.) When you buy it whole, it comes with a packet of powdered sugar and a plastic bag so you can shake it yourself and coat the panettone or pandoro so it’s ready for serving.

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Gelato

Hear me out on this one. Gelato is made with seasonal ingredients, so you can get some excellent ones with holiday flavor profiles. I find after a minute or two inside a well-heated gelateria I am all ready to savor some winter concoctions, cold as they may be. Pictured here is my favorite winter flavor: zucca (or squash/pumpkin) from Milan’s Ciacco gelateria.

 

What foods get you into the holiday state of mind?  Are there any other holiday treats you’ve enjoyed in Milan that I should add to my list?  Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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The Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan Italy for the Holidays

How to Enjoy Milan for the Holidays

How to Enjoy Milan for the Holidays

The first week of December in Milan is essentially the start of the Christmas season. The Feast of Saint Ambrose, Milan’s patron saint, is a public holiday on December 7th, followed by the national holiday for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception the very next day. And then the Christmas season extends until Epiphany, which doesn’t take place until January 6th.

In a country where nearly 90% of the population is not just Christian, but Catholic, obviously these church holidays throughout Italy shape the month of December and into the new year. And as the weather chills, the smell of roasting chestnuts reaches you as you stroll down the central streets and there are stands selling a steaming cup of mulled wine, or vin brulee. Signs that it is time to get into the holiday spirit!

Here are some special events to experience in Milan during the holiday season:

Christmas Markets

The big square, or piazza, in front of Milan’s Duomo (the main cathedral) is filled with row after row of vendors selling Christmas-related items starting at the beginning of December, as are the public gardens, or Giardini Pubblici. A variety of crafts and foods are on sale to help you find gifts for the holidays, but there are also food items for immediate consumption to help keep your energy up as you shop. Christmas markets in Europe are a destination unto themselves!

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L’Artigiano in Fiera

Loosely meaning artisanal goods in a festival or fair, this is hands-down the favorite market I’ve been to in Europe. The first thing to know is that it is massive, beyond what you could imagine if you’ve never been to a large-scale convention on the continent. It completely takes over Milan’s newer convention center, which is so large that its footprint lies at the very end of the red metro line as it could not be accommodated in the city. And L’Artigiano in Fiera features handmade goods, crafts, furniture, scarves, trinkets, you-name-it from all over the world.

Giant convention halls are devoted to a single continent or region, with stalls as far as the eye can see, and of course there are tons of food stalls and restaurants intermixed, with the best examples of Italian and ethnic foods you could hope for. Giant baguette? Check. A black truffle for 10? Check. A fresh round of Tête de Moine cheese from Switzerland? Check. Candied ginger from Asia? Check. It’s a wonderland for the serious foodie, and boasts the best selection of holiday gift options you may ever come across. It runs during the first two weekends in December, including the weekdays in between, which will be the far less crowded times to visit.

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Feast of Saint Ambrose & Oh Bej! Oh Bej! Market

Not only is this the local Milan holiday for the city’s patron saint with associated religious celebrations, but there is also a giant market called Oh Bej! Oh Bej! that takes place in and around the Sforza Castle from December 7th (the Feast day) through the following Sunday. The curved road around the castle becomes pedestrian-only and fills with locals doing holiday shopping or simply coming to eat their way through the predominantly Italian snacks and street food available at the many stands. Even if you’re not looking for anything particular, there is such a variety of goods, from artwork to kitchenware to fresh spices to jewelry that even without making a purchase you’ll be entertained for several hours.

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Babbo Running

Babbo is the name affectionately given by the Italian to the man you may know better as Santa Claus. So yes, Babbo Running is just as fun to watch as you might imagine. Taking place in mid-late December, this run to benefit charity usually has its course around the same Sforza Castle area that hosts the Oh Bej! Oh Bej! market described above. And the runners? All dressed in Santa costumes!

Christmas Midnight Mass at the Duomo

Although many Milanesi will be on vacation over the holidays, those who remain in the city may opt for attending midnight mass at the iconic Gothic cathedral, the Duomo. If you plan to attend, be sure to arrive when the doors open at 10:30pm to secure a seat. The mass typically begins at 11:30pm on Christmas Eve, December 24th.

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New Year’s Eve Concert in Piazza Duomo

While there are New Year’s Eve events all over town, one of the popular outdoor events is the several-hours long free concert in the giant square in front of the Duomo cathedral, leading up to the countdown at midnight. It’s also totally legal to have open bottles of alcohol with you on the street, which many people celebrating will bring along (do note however, that if you have any glass bottles you’ll need to stay outside the barricade – where you can still hear and enjoy the concert, of course).

TIP! If you spend New Year’s Eve in Milan, watch out for the people setting off fireworks in the streets if you’re doing any walking between parties or back at the end of the night.

And while you’re in Milan for the holidays…

Traditional Food & Drink

In addition to the mulled wine (vin brulee) and roasted chestnuts available from street vendors throughout the city, there is a typical Milanese holiday dessert that is not to be missed – panettone. Panettone is a large, airy, yellow bread studded with candied fruit. Markets will sometimes have them in miniature size, or you can even find panettone from the large loaf available by the slice. And if you’d like the version without the candied pieces inside, just ask for Pandoro.

       READ MORE: Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

 

What local traditions help you to get into the holiday spirit?  If you’ve been to Milan for the holidays, anything else I should have recommended?  Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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How to Enjoy Milan Italy for the Holidays

Top Tips for Not Losing Things When You Travel (& How to Handle It When You Do)

Top Tips for Not Losing Things When You Travel (& How to Handle It When You Do)

Lost or misplaced items can be incredibly frustrating, especially if it was something expensive or with sentimental value. But this is an experience I honestly haven’t been very familiar with, despite my frequent travels. Until this year.

I still can’t pinpoint what exactly has changed. Is it that I’m getting older? Is my mind just overloaded with the stress and changes of moving back to the US after 5 years abroad? Or maybe I’ve always lost things, and it’s just that I’ve lost more precious things this year so I noticed it more?

Who knows, and honestly the reason is not nearly as important as the result – this year, I’ve definitely been losing things far more often than I’d like.

Things that were expensive to replace. Things that I picked up in past travels and had a special place in my heart. And things that were just inconvenient to not have anymore.

The good news is that an ounce of prevention goes a long way. And fortunately – for my sanity and my wallet – I manage to hold on to my possessions successfully most of the time. Here’s how.

Tips for Not Losing Things When You Travel

Certainly the easiest course of action is not losing things in the first place. While that is never 100% guaranteed, here are some things you can do to greatly minimize the number of things you will misplace or lose while you’re on the road:

Pack brightly colored objects.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve lost black or navy umbrellas. I’ll be sitting down at a restaurant and leave it on the seat next to me, and never spot it when I leave as it blends into my surroundings.

My bright pink umbrella? I’ve had it for years! Even the few times I’ve walked away without it, inevitably a server or friend will see it and pass it back to me. Choose bright or unusual colors when you can, and you’ll be much more likely to hold onto important objects on the road.

It was a little foggy and rainy. You're *supposed* to be able to see the model for the Disney castle behind me.

Have a designated spot for the items you always travel with.

Some people make lists. I travel enough that I just know which items I keep where. For my well-traveled wheeled carry-on bag, I know that my deodorant, toiletries bag, and hairbrush always gets packed in the small outside pocket. My cell phone charger is always in my purse.

However you need to remember it (there’s probably an app for that), set up locations that you’ll always use for all of the items you’ll need on a trip. It’s much easier to see if something is missing or forgotten if you have one place it will always be in your luggage.

Have secure places to store sensitive items.

Of course, for things like your passport or driver’s license or credit card, you don’t want to have those items easily accessible to possibly be snatched or fall out of your bag. Be sure to have an extra zippered compartment to seal with your valuables inside.

And for longer journeys, consider hidden compartments in your main luggage for some emergency cash or to store your second credit card or bank card as a backup just in case the unexpected happens.

Put things back where you got them from.

Having those set places to put certain objects only works if you consistently put things back where you got them. Every. Single. Time. It may seem tedious, but this is the only way it works.

Exploring a new city or country can make you more on edge than normal – that’s part of the excitement! – which means that is especially important to follow the system you set up. Even if it means stopping for an extra minute before getting a start on your day or taking extra care when packing your bag.

Routine, routine, routine.

Most of your time traveling will not be in the moment of packing or unpacking at home or at your hotel or accommodation. It will be you in the airport or train station, boarding a bus, or on foot exploring. This is how you’ll make the most of your time traveling, but also consists of hundreds of little opportunities to possibly leave something behind.

I usually have both a cardigan and a scarf with me when I’m traveling, in case the weather cools down or I enter a museum with the air conditioning on full blast. This means that these two items are laid over the top of my purse, which means that every now and again, and each time I leave a place, I reach over and confirm that I still have both.

Of course, the one scarf I did lose recently (a beautiful one I had purchased in Barcelona traveling with a friend), was when I decided that in Belize that I didn’t need to keep it out anymore, and put it into my backpack and then wore it again without checking that I still had it.

Scarf Tips for not losing things when you travel IMG_3549 (2)

Check thoroughly every time you leave somewhere.

There are a few places where you’re most likely to leave a treasured item behind: your accommodation, transportation, or at a restaurant or concert/performance. Out and about, I’m most likely to leave a sweater or umbrella or shopping bag behind. Or my phone charger or something in the bathroom wherever I’m staying. Knowing which items you frequently forget can help with your checking, including having a list of those final things to confirm you’ve got.

When I’m carrying multiple items, I’ll do something that I recently discovered that oddly my mother and I both do – count how many items I’ve carrying, and then check for that number of items. If I know I’m carrying 3 things and I only count 2, I know I’ve missed something.

The real bottom line, though – whether you’re a counter, or list-maker, or simply a thorough searcher – find a checking method that works for you and USE IT consistently!

Leave an obvious reminder somewhere you’ll definitely notice it.

It may sound silly, but I’ve been known to leave something on the floor exactly in front of a hotel door to make sure I can’t leave without grabbing it. Or hold my wallet in my hand until I put my credit card back inside after paying the bill.

While those suggestions may seem over the top, there’s no better way than something extremely prominent to get your attention and make sure you don’t leave a beloved item behind!

How to Handle It When You Do Lose Something

Of course, even with the best preventive methods, it’s still possible to lose something. In some cases, the item might be expendable, but of course the incidents that stick out most in my mind (and probably in yours, too!) are those where it was something critical like an ID or bank card or some object or item of clothing with sentimental value.

A few things I’ve lost recently have really thrown my world upside down, since I’m not accustomed to losing things. In my effort to retrace my steps and find the missing items, I have picked up a few tips on how to best do this, and which methods were most effective.

While some of these suggestions may seem obvious, it’s definitely worth mentioning them all as I’ve (foolishly) overlooked them at one time or another. And shouldn’t have.

Act quick.

Especially if you lose something while in transit, you may first realize the loss upon your arrival. By which point you might be exhausted or jet lagged or both. The inclination in the moment will definitely be to delay reporting an item as missing, but this is never the right choice. The quicker you act, the more likely you’ll be able to locate whatever you’ve lost.

Go in person. Otherwise call.

Again, this seems so simple, but you’d be amazed at how much a difference it makes to search for your item in person. It’s much easier for someone to blow you off on the phone, or only look for your missing item half-heartedly. When there is a distraught person right in front of them, there will be a more thorough search.

When I lost my work ID a few months ago and was fairly certain I had left it at the gym. I called and they said the looked for it but to no avail. When I arrived in person the next morning to ask about it, they located my ID in under a minute.

Depending on where you lose something, you might also run into an automated phone line where it is difficult to get connected with an actual person. So make that extra effort if you really want to recover the item you’ve lost.

Officially report valuables as lost.

For any important document like a passport, credit card, or bank card, be sure to contact the bank or company that issued your card or the relevant consulate to make an official report IMMEDIATELY. As bad as it is to lose something, it is even worse to have to deal with unauthorized bank withdrawals, surprise charges on your credit card, or identity theft.

TIP! Keep a hard copy list of important phone numbers, like your bank, credit card company, and local consulate or government office, so you can contact them if needed. If you have access to WiFi, you can always call on Skype or dial the collect number.

TIP! Some companies allow you to place a hold on your card instead of canceling it, so you can reactivate it and continue using it throughout your travels if it’s later recovered.

Continue checking every possible spot.

You’ll probably replay your step-by-step movements and might even become convinced that you know exactly where you lost something. Don’t trust your memory! Especially after replaying events over and over in your mind, you may be rewriting history. Continue to check everywhere.

It’s hard to check with lots of places and you may start to feel silly asking again and again, but push through and go through all the motions for your best shot at recovering what was lost. Decide how much you want to avoid sounding like a careless person by inquiring in multiple places versus how badly you’d like your item back.

When I lost that beloved scarf I had bought in Barcelona, Spain, it was on my way back to the US from Belize. I was unsure if it had been left behind at the airport in Belize, the Houston airport where I connected, the airport restaurant where I ate dinner, or in my Lyft ride home.

Although I I filed a lost item report with the airline online, there was no one to call or way to upload a photo, and I never personally checked with any of the other possible locations. In retrospect I should have also called each of those locations to speak to someone personally and leave no stone unturned in my search.

Four months later, and my scarf has not been recovered (and probably never will be).

De Halve Maan brewery tour
Happier times wearing my scarf in Brugges, Belgium

Trust me, if you’ve never lost something important, it can feel devastating in the moment. And if you’re like me and don’t typically lose things, it can be unnerving as well.

Of course, credit cards that need to be canceled or a lost passport can be difficult and possibly expensive to resolve. But even the sentimental items with low monetary value can be quite upsetting to lose as well.

Think more deliberately about how you safeguard your valuables and keep track of all of your belongings on the road. And keep these top tips in mind in case you do lose something, so you can take all the right actions as quickly as possible.

How do you keep your belongings safe on the road? Or secure when you’re out and about where you live? Any tips that I missed?

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Top tips for not losing things when you travel and how to handle it when you do

Hidden Gem: The Tile Museum in Palermo, Sicily

Hidden Gem: The Tile Museum in Palermo, Sicily

“I’m sorry, we’re not doing any tours today.”

As a visitor intent on seeing a particular sight, this can be one of the most disconcerting messages you hear in your travels. But of course it is one that comes up every now and again, and is simply part of the whole travel experience, which does not always work out perfectly.

Visiting the Palermo Tile Museum was a complete fluke. My friend Isabel and I left it until the last day of our long weekend in this Sicilian city to even attempt to visit for the first time. We had a bunch of hours to enjoy Palermo before catching our return flight to Milan in the afternoon, and a few last things to see.

And even seeking out the Tile Museum at all was somewhat random, as it didn’t come up in most of my pre-trip research – although where I found any information, it received rave reviews.

So this Monday morning, we walk up to the street address for the museum entrance and are faced with what looks like your standard Italian apartment building, with a row of labeled buzzers.

At first, we think that surely we’re in the wrong place. There is no prominent sign labeling any type of museum, and certainly no open entrances to welcome us in.

Only after walking up and down the block a few times do we realize that the address is in fact correct, and that one of the buzzers, if you peer closely, lists the museum and displays a phone number.

I call the cell phone number indicated, and find out that a reservation is needed. At this point, I’m cautiously optimistic, and hoping that since Isabel and I speak both English and Italian, surely there will be a tour we can join in one of those languages.

Unfortunately there is no tour planned until after our flight back to Milan – that disappointing message of “I’m sorry, we’re not doing any tours today.” So I say a polite thank you, relay the disappointing news to Isabel, and we start strolling in the direction of Botanical Garden as a backup plan.

This is when we have what I’m starting to think of more and more as one of those magical Italian moments.

My phone rings, and the number looks vaguely familiar. It is the same gentleman calling back, offering us a tour in Italian for just the two of us. It sounds cliché, but my heart leapt with the news after the disappointment of hearing that a tour would not be possible. We were getting to see this mystery of a place!

As you can see in the photo below, entering this apartment really is just like any other residential building:

Entrance Palermo Tile Museum Stanze al Genio Palermo Sicily Italy 20150622_120945 (2)

We find out at the start of the tour with our passionate, knowledgeable guide that this is because one of the most impressive tile collections in the world was part of someone’s private collection.

The apartment that houses the museum is called the Stanze al Genio, the rooms of the genius? Or genie? It is not large, but the tile collection is so enormous that it feels like every available space is dedicated to displaying these lovely items.

Palermo Tile Museum Stanze al Genio Palermo Sicily Italy 20150622_124331 (2)

Tiles in the south of Italy are commonly seen in hues of blue, yellow, and green, but the variety of this collection goes well beyond that. Colorful hues, interesting designs, and even some tiles with images like those you’ll find at the ruins of Pompeii, outside Naples:

Palermo Tile Museum Stanze al Genio Palermo Sicily Italy 20150622_124347 (2)

And there’s nothing better than a tour guide who is excited about the collection to share interesting tidbits and answer your questions with enthusiasm.

Tile museum

I felt incredibly fortunate to have made it inside the doors of this museum at all. And while not large, the museum contained one of the most unique and well-curated collections that I’ve been privileged to visit in my travels.

I think for both me and Isabel, it was one of the most memorable moments of our weekend trip. And a spot I recommend to anyone visiting Palermo!

Certainly, we were very lucky on the day we visited, but if you want to visit the Stanze al Genio, I wouldn’t count on winging it, here’s the right way to visit:

Stanze al Genio

Visits are available 7 days a week, by appointment

E-mail or call *in advance* to schedule:

stanzealgenio@yahoo.it

English: +39 380 367 3773

Italiano: +39 340 097 1561

The website is currently under construction, but check the link above for the most updated information.

There’s also a Bed & Breakfast on the property!

I didn’t stay here, but if you are interested in having these spaces be your accommodations in Palermo (or just want to check out photos of more beautiful tiles!), check out their site here.

Happy travels!

Where was the last hidden gem you discovered? Any other spots you loved in Palermo? Let me know in the Comments!

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Hidden Gem Palermo Tile Museum Stanze al Genio Palermo Sicily Italy

What It’s Like to Attend an NFL Game in London

What It’s Like to Attend an NFL Game in London

The American National Football League (NFL) has been playing games in London for nearly a decade. As a huge football fan, I have been tracking which teams and dates have been selected since moving to Italy in the fall of 2013, and was very excited a year ago when the New York Giants – my home team – was selected to play one of the games this season.

The NFL games in London are not like international competitions or exhibitions, when one country’s national team plays another. Both of the teams involved are American, playing on British soil an ocean away. When I purchased my ticket for Sunday’s game, I really did not know what to expect.

Who would attend? Would there be a lot of American expats living in Europe, like me? Americans who flew over for the weekend to go to the game? A lot of British people? Would there be other Giants fans there?

I didn’t have a clue about the answers to any of my questions ahead of time, other than some intel from an American friend living in London that people would wear any NFL jersey they owned, regardless of whether that particular team was playing. Having brunch the morning of the game in central London I passed two people, each wearing the jersey of a different NFL team. I wondered, might they also be attending the game?

So, what was it like? On my way to Twickenham Stadium on London’s outskirts for the game, I took in the full experience, both for the things that were so familiar to me from other American sporting events (NFL games included) and those that were just a bit different.

Catching the Reading train line from Waterloo Station to Twickenham was the first time I saw fellow NFL fans en masse. There were a lot of other fans in NY Giants jerseys, so I was able to find the correct train platform easily just by following the crowd. I even ended up sitting in a section of the train that had other New Yorkers, although they had flown in just for the weekend. I was lucky to have found a seat, as all of the standing areas became packed with people as the train got closer and closer to Twickenham.

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Upon leaving the train, the rainbow of different NFL team jerseys became apparent as most of the train’s occupants streamed onto the platform and formed a giant mass of people carried forward toward the station’s exits. There was basically one main road that led to the stadium, and as I walked with the pace of the crowd, the sight was a familiar one.

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First, the NFL team jerseys. I haven’t bought new NY Giants attire in a while, so I was actually wearing the jersey of the previous player at #27, Brandon Jacobs – and I wasn’t the only one. While the New York jerseys I saw were mostly those of current popular Giants players (Eli Manning, Odell Beckham Jr. & Victor Cruz), there were actually quite a few older team jerseys being worn: those of Michael Strahan, Jeremy Shockey, Tiki Barber, & Lawrence Taylor to name a few.

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Also, many of the houses and restaurants that lined the way to the stadium had food stands set up next to the sidewalk, with the smell of grilled meat and onions wafting up and tempting many of the people to pause for a snack and a beer. Options even extended into various ethnic options, from African to Asian to Latin American. Basically any street food you could imagine.

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The official area surrounding the stadium was quite familiar as well, with more food stands, even some with Krispy Kreme donuts. And one of the beers on tap at the stadium was Budweiser, which I’m guessing is not standard fare at Twickenham for rugby games (although I’m honestly not sure).

When I arrived at my seat, I noticed quite a few Giants jerseys, and thought there might be a sizeable representation of Americans. I was wrong. While I did encounter plenty of Americans, the crowd was overwhelmingly British, which became apparent right before the game. For the national anthem, first Nicole Scherzinger sang the American one, with everyone standing at polite attention. Then, as the first few notes of the British national anthem started, an overwhelming number of people in the crowd starting belting out “God Save the Queen.” Yup, very British crowd.

And most of that British crowd was cheering for the Los Angeles Rams. As soon as the Rams players started taking the field, all of the free LA Rams flags that had been distributed came out and blanketed the stadium with the flapping noise of fierce flag-waving echoing throughout. Not only were the Rams the “home team” for this game, but they were actually slated for a while to play in London over three consecutive years. This was starting in 2012 when they were still the St. Louis Rams. Although the team backed out after their first year, some locals definitely adopted the Rams as their own.

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There were plenty of New York Giants fans, too. Nowhere near as loud as the British booing at points, but as the Giants tied up the game and took the lead, decently loud chants of “LET’S GO GI- ANTS” clap, clap, clap-clap-clap would start and make it through a few cycles before dying out. Basically, you could hear the Giants fans when the Rams fans were relatively quiet, but it was still nice to know the others were there =)

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The British fans are still learning the NFL rules. American football is different enough from the familiar similar local sports in the UK, like rugby and soccer, that there still is some confusion about the rules. The local commentators went out of their way to accentuate their booming voices for each Rams first down and play celebratory stadium music, even more so than you would expect at an NFL game in the States. And the video monitors had a lot of text explaining some of the game basics, like time outs.

And the game was great! (and not *just* because my team won) There were a lot of possession changes and dramatic plays, so this matchup actually turned out to be a great one for spurring interest in a mostly foreign crowd. While the Rams had some quick scoring and led 10-0 for a while, the Giants managed to tie it up before halftime. The 3rd quarter was scoreless, and then after a second NY Giants touchdown and some key interceptions, they held a 17-10 lead until the end.

The undisputed ‘play of the game’ was the first-half interception by Landon Collins of the NY Giants, that resulted in a huge run for a touchdown. He seemed to magically dodge Rams players attempting to tackle him as he jumped and spun, traversing the field, and doing what seemed like a magical leap at the very end to cross the threshold into the endzone. The elaborate footwork by defender Collins rivaled any offensive player that day, and was incredibly memorable. Check out the video here.

Is London getting an NFL team? For now, I don’t think so. The NFL has been progressively negotiating both for stadium access. NFL games in London have been played previously at Wembley Stadium, and the Giants game I attended was the first of several that will be played at Twickenham. From the British people in attendance who I chatted with, games have high attendance because of the novelty, so far not more than 3 games a season. It is unclear both with the time difference to the US and the British interest level whether a full season for a single team could be sustained.

TIPS! for Attending an NFL Game in London

  • From Twickenham Stadium, walk to the Whitton train station to head back toward central London. It is equally close to the stadium, but before the Twickenham stop on the Reading line so I was able to get a seat easily.
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  • Beer cups are reusable and involve a £1 deposit, but if you’re like me, you just want the cups as souvenirs. I discovered that at least at Twickenham, different levels of the stadium use cups with different designs. If you’d like to collect some different ones, either spread out your beer purchasing, or spot someone with a cup you’d like at the line at the beer vendor at the end of the game for people who want their deposit back – you’ll either be able to trade cups or buy them out.
  • Want to avoid long lines for refreshments or at the bathroom? The British still don’t know American football rules super-well – see above – so the pause for the “2-minute warning” (toward the end of the 2nd or 4th quarter) is a good time to go. I would start making my way to the entryway to the inside area with bathrooms when it seemed like it would be one more play before the pause, around 2:10 or so, and you’ll be back before the game starts up again.

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And moving forward for the NFL International Series? Well, there is still 1 more NFL game to be played in London this season, this upcoming Sunday also at Twickenham Stadium between the Cincinnati Bengals & Washington Redskins. And another first for the International Series comes this November, with the 1st game played outside of London – a Monday Night Football match-up between the Oakland Raiders & Houston Texans, which will take place in Mexico City!

Since the NFL is trying to build interest and fans outside of the US for American football, although there are travelling costs involved, tickets to the game itself can be more affordable, plus you get a weekend away.  Click to find out about the latest games on the NFL International schedule.

 

Would you fly to another country to see an American football game? Anything else about attending an NFL game in London that you’re still curious about? Leave a message in the Comments, I’ll reply personally to each one.

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What It's Like to Attend an NFL Game in London, UK

How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

After my first year living in Italy, I realized that I had already been to 3 different truffle festivals in 3 different regions: Alba, Acqualagna, and Norcia. Okay, so I really enjoy truffles and was very fortunate to have the opportunity to visit so many festivals dedicated to them. But I was also surprised to realize how many weeks (or at least weekends) these festivals last, and how many seasons boast truffle festivals, giving you several opportunities to plan a visit.

Part of that has to do with the fact that there are many varietals of truffle, even beyond the designations of white and black. The “precious” white truffle is principally found in Alba and Acqualagna, while the black truffle comes in many varieties, most commonly the black summer truffle (Tuber aestivum) and black winter truffle (Tuber melanosporum). I only mention the scientific names here because this is how you will sometimes see truffles listed on a menu to distinguish between the different varieties. In any case, the many different varieties of truffle mean that they are harvested at different times of year in different regions of Italy, so even if you’re planning a winter visit, getting fresh truffles is a possibility if you plan your itinerary with truffle areas in mind.

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Alba (Piedmont region)

early October – late November, held over 8 weekends

The “Fiera del Tartufo” in Alba (west of Milan) is probably the most famous, and is the truffle festival where you will encounter the most foreigners and hear the most English being spoken. It is also many visitors’ first Italian destination for a truffle festival due to its location in the region of Piedmont, known for many of its excellent wine varietals – Barolo, Barbaresco, Barbera, and Moscato d’Asti, to name a few – as well as for the outstanding restaurants in the region. The main vendors are located inside a building with paid entry that can get quite crowded and hard to walk through as the day progresses.

TIP! Although they sell a wine-tasting option with your admission, there are many wine vendors throughout where you can taste for free, so unless you want to taste a lot of top-shelf options from wineries not present, stick to the basic admission price.

acqualagna

Acqualagna (Le Marche region)

late October – early November, held over 3 weekends

Much less well-known, although the white truffle found in this coastal region east of Tuscany is (scientifically) identical to the more famous white truffle of Alba. The region of Le Marche is also one of the regions less visited by foreign tourists, so you will encounter far more locals and hear a lot more Italian being spoken here. There is an indoor component to Acqualagna, but many stands located outside in the piazzas and streets of the town, so I found it to be more spread out and less crowded in any one area.

norcia

Norcia (Umbria region)

late February – early March, held over 2 weekends

Called Nero Norcia, or “black Norcia,” the truffle festival in Norcia is different from the other two I’ve mentioned because it is dedicated to a black truffle instead of the white one. While the white one is more expensive and delicate (and rare), the black truffle can be a more versatile culinary ingredient for its ability to maintain its aroma with exposure to heat, like being tossed with butter and fresh pasta. And since this is a relatively short festival in the midst of winter, it’s a very different (bundled-up) experience wandering the outside stalls and tasting as you go.

TIP! For all of the truffle festivals above, there are many products that you can buy from charcuterie to cheese to bottles of wine to all of the truffle-centric products. Bring along a backpack or cart of some sort to help carry all of your purchases.

truffle-map

And certainly the three truffle festivals I’ve personally attended don’t even scratch the surface of what you can find around Italy. Above is a map indicating all of the locales in Italy that are known for truffles. Seemingly everywhere! I really had no idea until living here, and scratching the surface of this wonderful fungus.

Wherever you decide to go, here are my top tips to make the most of your Italian Truffle Festival experience:

Plan, plan, plan.

If you are visiting a town or the surrounding region when the local truffle festival is taking place, you will be there along with the locals and other tourists who are all trying to make the most of the weekend. Accommodations, winery tours, and restaurant reservations can fill up fast, so if there are specific places you want to experience, it’s worth the effort to plan in advance.

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Drive.

Many truffle festivals are accessible by Italy’s excellent train system, however there are so many perks to arriving by car. Not only does it give you the flexibility of any time you take a road trip, but there are a lot of nearby towns, wineries, and restaurants most easily reached in a vehicle. Prepare to drive around Italy with my Tips for Road Tripping in Europe.

Stay overnight in a town nearby, but not the one actually hosting the truffle festival. Or on the outskirts of town.

With all of the vendors and visitors for the truffle festival itself, the host town can become quite chaotic, especially in the center of town. Plus, many streets will be blocked off so travel by car can be difficult and confusing. I find that it’s best to stay on the outskirts of town where it’s not to far to arrive at the festival by foot, or to stay in a nearby town, giving you another area to explore in the region.

Attend during carnival time or special cultural performances.

Although the festival is already a special weekend experience, there is typically a schedule of special events that take place throughout from Alba’s famous donkey race to evening carnivals to cultural performances in period costume. Even if you don’t plan ahead you may stumble upon one of the special events, but these performances are also worth seeking out as you plan your trip.

Take advantage of weekdays before and after festival if you can.

Like with Oktoberfest and other festivals around Europe, weekends are the most crowded time as the locals come to enjoy the festivities outside of the work week. To have a less-crowded experience at wineries and restaurants nearby, plan some of your time in the region to be during weekdays.

Taste first, then buy truffle products.

Yes, truffles are an amazing product, however not all truffle products are created equal. Although truffle spreads make all look the same at the different vendors, you really need to taste them all to see which one best suits your particular taste (and only buy from vendors that give you the opportunity to sample their products). My favorite truffle products to seek out: a black truffle and mushroom spread usually called tartufotto and semi-soft cheeses with shaved pieces of truffle inside.

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Buy a truffle!

There are many great ways to eat a fresh truffle, so be sure to have access to a kitchen either at the festival, or in the day or two after. And it is worth investing in a truffle shaver, as even the most intricate knife-work is not quite the same as the thin, even slices of truffle you can get with the proper tool. Truffle shavings are great with scrambled eggs, fresh pasta, and over mountain cheese roasted in the oven.

Taste and buy wine.

Okay, you’re attending a truffle festival, but there will be no shortage of wine for tasting and buying. And since you’re already planning a home-cooked meal to accompany the fresh truffle you purchased, buy some regional wine to accompany it. Wine also makes a great souvenir and if it’s just a few bottles, can be easily transported home in your luggage.

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Eat at the food stands on site.

All truffle festivals have food stands on site with many truffle-enhanced dishes to sample. They often come in relatively small portions, so it’s fun and delicious to try plates from many different vendors as you explore the festival.

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Go on a truffle hunt.

Going on a truffle hunt had been on my bucket list ever since I lived in Perth, since Western Australia is also known for its truffles. While I didn’t make it during my time there, I did get to experience a truffle hunt one year attending the Alba truffle festival with friends. Not only did I learn a lot about truffles, it was fun trekking through the woods with the truffle-hunting dog, and lovely to sit down and have truffle enhanced dishes at the end of the hunt.

Have you been to an Italian truffle festival? Or one in another country? What was the highlight of your experience?

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How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

3 Places Worth Visiting within a 2-hour drive of Oktoberfest in Munich

3 Places Worth Visiting within a 2-hour drive of Oktoberfest in Munich

Oktoberfest in Munich is a blast and has so many surprises in store, but after a few days of drinking beer and carousing, you’re probably ready for a change of scenery. Munich’s downtown area is great to explore, but that can easily be done in a morning or two before heading to the Oktoberfest tents. If you’re looking to get out into Bavaria, see some lovely landscapes, or hunt down particular tourist attractions, there are a number of great options nearby.

Each of the 3 places I’ve listed could be done as a day trip, or part of a longer road trip in the region – it depends on how much time you have on vacation and what piques your interest. If you are planning to do some type of road trip in conjunction with an Oktoberfest visit, be sure to check out my tips for road tripping in Europe.

And here are some spots nearby to Munich to check out:

Not sure what it is, but I just love this shot

Stuttgart, Germany

I actually visited Stuttgart in the summer, but it would be a great city to check out in the autumn as well. It is one of Germany’s largest cities and has a lot of history represented around town, and also the traditional Swabian food, which is a bit different than the food traditions of Munich.

What to Do:

Here I am coming down from my ride on a continuously-moving elevator
Here I am coming down from my ride on a continuously-moving elevator
  • Take a Walking Tour (I can highly recommend Stuttgart Steps for this). You’ll get a thorough overview of the history and traditions of the region, and get to check out some of the hidden treasures around town.
  • Wander the Old Town. There is a lot to see, just pick a direction and wander! If you do a walking tour, you may have some spots you’d like to return to for a closer look.

    Cheesy kasespatzle, not all that different from macaroni and cheese
    Cheesy kasespatzle, not all that different from macaroni and cheese
  • Eat Swabian food. This involves hearty mountain food and lots of spätzle. Many menus in town indicate which dishes on offer are Swabian classics.
  • Check out the Mercedes-Benz & Porsche museums. I actually haven’t visited either of these world-famous car museums, but both are popular attractions on the outskirts of Stuttgart.

    I thought this was a Mercedes office building, but no, just the central train station. Mercedes (and Porsche) own this town!
    I thought this was a Mercedes office building, but no, just the central train station. Mercedes (and Porsche) own this town!
  • Stroll the city parks. Stuttgart has a lot of green space, and you’ll see many locals relaxing and socializing in these areas – and you should, too.
  • Visit a Winery (or several). I only went to one, Weinmanufaktur Untertunkheim, which had a huge variety of tasty white and red varietals. I was able to arrive to their city cellar without an appointment, and taste several wines guided in English by one of the staff people on hand. Depending on how much time you have, there are others in the area.
  • Check out Stuttgart’s Oktoberfest (“Beer Festival”), which is now the 2nd-largest one after Munich. If you’re visiting Stuttgart during Munich’s Oktoberfest, it will also be Oktoberfest in Stuttgart. More details are on the official website here.

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Innsbruck, Austria

Some locations in Austria, like Innsbruck, are actually closer to Munich than other German cities. Innsbruck has a very different flavor, and is a great spot to do some exploring and enjoy different food and beer traditions. Although I was there in winter when it’s a popular ski destination, there is a lot to see around town and ways to enjoy the outdoors in autumn.

What to Do:

  • Wander the Old Town. It was an option for Stuttgart above, and this is a great activity for Innsbruck as well. There is a cobblestone pedestrian area that you can wander, and a lot of the distinctive buildings and palaces are along the way.20160123_173156-2
  • Explore Churches and Palaces. There are quite a few of these around Innsbruck, many of which you’re likely to see as you walk through the Old Town. Take the time to check out at least a few, to get a feel for Austrian history and appreciate some beautiful sculptures.
  • Take a funicular to a panoramic lookout. There are many cable cars and many lookout spots at different stops up the mountains surrounding Innsbruck. Not only are the views stunning, but the Zaha Hadid-designed Hungerburg station – accessible from the city center – is a destination of its own.20160124_100027
  • Hike. Fall weather is great for hiking, and a more physically active way to take in the views and appreciate the landscape. If you’re getting restless after many days sitting around drinking beer at Oktoberfest, Innsbruck is an ideal jumping off point for day hikes. There are even some less strenuous options, where you can ascend in a cable car and do a relatively flat loop – like the Zirbenweg trail described here.
  • Drink craft beer. There is quite a beer tradition in Austria as well, and walking around you’ll see plenty of signs for either bars focused on craft beers or restaurants with a vast beer selection. Sample some local brews to get some different flavors after your Oktoberfest experience.

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Hohenschwangau, Germany (Bavarian castles)

While you may have heard of Stuttgart or Innsbruck, you’re likely to have never heard of Hohenschwangau. So what makes this particular spot in Bavaria such a draw? The two famous castles that are on neighboring hilltops include one that was the model for the iconic Disney castle. This is the one place of the three that I visited in conjunction with my trip to Munich’s Oktoberfest. You’ll likely find other Oktoberfest visitors making the same trip, but it’s not terribly crowded here on a weekday.

What to Do:

It was a little foggy and rainy. You're *supposed* to be able to see the model for the Disney castle behind me.
It was a little foggy and rainy. You’re *supposed* to be able to see the model for the Disney castle behind me.
  • Visit the Neuchwanstein Castle. This is probably the most popular one to tour, as people try to get shots with the castle that very obviously is the inspiration for the Disney castle. There are paths around the castle and onto a nearby bridge. Hopefully you’ll encounter better weather than I did on the very foggy afternoon spent there.20141001_152721
  • Visit the Schloss Hohenschwangau. In very close proximity to Neuchwanstein, you can also visit the Hohenschwangau Castle, which is the older of the two and the childhood royal home of Bavarian King Ludwig II, who built Neuchwanstein.
  • Enjoy the great outdoors. In addition to the walk up the hills to the castle if you opt out of the paid bus, like Innsbruck there is a lot of hiking possible in this area. If you stay overnight, you’ll have enough time to take advantage of activities besides the castle visits that will fill most of your first day here.

TIP! The castles have timed tickets for entry, which can be reserved for both castles in advance here or purchased the same day on site, although if you wait until the day of, your preferred visit time may not be available.

 

Have you done other day trips from Munich? What other visit do you most want to combine with a trip to Munich’s Oktoberfest?

Or do you still have Oktoberfest questions? Ask away in the Comments.

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3 Places Worth Visiting Near (within a 2-hour drive of) Oktoberfest in Munich, Germany

13 Things I Didn’t Know about Oktoberfest (until I went)

13 Things I Didn’t Know about Oktoberfest (until I went)

But Lana, you say, it’s only September. Why write about Oktoberfest now? Well, actually that brings me right into my list of what I *didn’t* know about Oktoberfest until I went:

  1. Oktoberfest is so named because it *ends* in October. It starts in mid-September.More precisely, Oktoberfest runs for 16 days ending on the first Sunday in October, so some years there are very few days in the month of October that are part of the festivities. Some years – like this one – have October 3rd (German National Day) falling after the first Sunday, so Oktoberfest gets extended until then.
  2. Oktoberfest in Munich is the most famous, and the one on most people’s bucket lists. But it isn’t the *only* Oktoberfest. If low-key is more your scene, other Oktoberfests are held in the fall throughout Germany. Berlin and Stuttgart, along with other Germany cities, also host relatively large Oktoberfest gatherings. And there are even Oktoberfests organized all over the world! Wikipedia has a good round-up here if you’re looking for an Oktoberfest celebration a little closer to home.
  3. Accommodations (even private rooms in hostels!) are super-expensive and sell out early.When first looking into going to Oktoberfest, I wanted to be sure I had a place to sleep, and actually started by looking into local hostels. A lot of Munich hostel options turned out being *more* expensive that other local hotels, and seemed to sell out sooner. If you’re making plans relatively last-minute, I can highly recommend Hotel Uhland, where I ended up staying. You must book by contacting them personally and pre-pay, which means that they still have available rooms after other booking sites have sold out and re-release rooms if payment is not received. Plus, they offer parking and are in an excellent location – close to the metro and city center, and very easy walking distance to the Oktoberfest grounds.

    Beer festival and carnival in one!
    Beer festival and carnival in one!
  1. Oktoberfest is really a giant carnival held on a huge grassy expanse.I really thought that Oktoberfest was all about the beer. Until I went, that is. It is held on an enormous plot of land, with your typical carnival rides as far as the eye can see. There were even a lot of families with children enjoying the experience. As for riding the rides, I recommend that you pace yourself between drinking before going on a ride that will spin you and have you hanging upside down 😉
  2. Oktoberfest is FREE.Well, of course you’ll be paying for food, beer, and any rides or souvenirs you purchase, but attending itself is completely free. This could even be a relatively budget-friendly trip, if you find cheap enough accommodations (and don’t drink too much beer).img_1158
  1. Many people dress up, but don’t worry, lots of people don’t.Before I went, I casually looked into how much I would have to spend to purchase a traditional German outfit called a dirndl, and the prices were outrageous. But once Oktoberfest has started in Munich, there are deep discounts to be had, especially toward the end of the festival. I bought my entire dirndl (there are a few different parts to the outfit) at a pop-up shop for just 30 Euro. If you are the crafty type, it wouldn’t take much sewing to make your own outfit. And if you’re a man, it seems that wearing any plaid shirt and dark colored shorts or pants will enable you to fit in, and plenty of more authentic outfits are for sale as well.20140930_112934
  1. The Oktoberfest fairgrounds are not in the city center, so you could go to Oktoberfest and never really visit the city of Munich.I just assumed that Oktoberfest would take over the city center, with tents setup throughout the cobblestone streets, but this is not quite true – see #4 above. If you need a morning break from drinking (and you probably will) join the many other Oktoberfest visitors making the trek to the city center to actually see a bit of Munich. It is very walkable, with beautiful old buildings and a lot of casual outdoor eateries to take advantage of when lunchtime rolls around. Just don’t wait too long to head over the the Oktoberfest fairgrounds and snag your spot at a table in one of the tents.20140929_150058
  1. Beer comes by the LITER.Yes, by the liter! It’s a very large amount of beer – if you’re having trouble picturing it, this is a bit more than 2 pints and around 34 ounces. Plan your drinking accordingly. On my biggest day, I drank 4 liters over the course of many, many hours. You may drink more or less, but if you really want to enjoy your time at Oktoberfest, don’t overdo it on your first day there.
  2. Many people who attend are tourists, not necessarily heavy drinkers or beer aficionados.There are a ton of tourists who are coming to Oktoberfest for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Then they arrive, and discover that beer is served by the liter – see #8 above. And these tourists only enjoy Oktoberfest for one day because they are too hungover to function by the second one. By breakfast Wednesday morning at my hotel, most tables were only occupied by one person because the spouse was not feeling well enough to come. Hopefully you’ve been keeping your tolerance high back at home if you’re planning to consume many liters of beer per day when you arrive. Either way though, pace yourself so you can enjoy all of your time at Oktoberfest, especially if your visit is likely to be your only one.
  3. You can only reserve space at a table in one of the tents for 10 or more people.Reserving will not be possible for most visitors who aren’t coming in that large of a group and don’t know any locals. That’s okay though, if you go to Oktoberfest on a weekday, people are generally friendly and there’s always room to get cozy and squeeze in 2 or 4 additional people at what might at first glance look like an already full table (this is possible on the weekends as well, but you’ll want to be there early in the morning to snag space).
  4. Each tent is not really a tent but a fairly sturdy wooden structure.I feel like I had heard so much about the different tents at Oktoberfest that I had a picture in my mind of a very large circus tent with fabric flaps. Instead, walking onto the Oktoberfest grounds you see what look like very large wooden lodge houses. It still a “tent” because it is not permanent, although you wouldn’t know this by looking at the buildings. Inside there are wooden picnic tables with long benches, and even proper bathrooms. So don’t worry, you won’t be roughing it to enjoy the various “tents.”
  5. Servers come to the tables.I guess I hadn’t really thought about this ahead of time, but it would be quite the chaotic scene if there were no servers. First, find a seat, then find a server to place your order (for both beer and food from the formal menu). Some tents have an assigned person for each table or there are roving servers for you to flag down. There are also roving vendors for the more portable food, like pretzels. And remember who took your order in case your beer or food gets lost in the chaos and you want to flag someone down to ask.20140930_111910
  1. Each tent is also a giant party, with a live band playing sets all day and night long. If you don’t know German drinking songs, you will by the end of your time at Oktoberfest!The music selections vary by the tent, the time of day, and span from traditional German jigs (oopmah, not polka, if you ask a German) to Top 40 hits from recent decades. And every so often – several times an hour – each band in all of the tents break out with the same German drinking song called “Ein Prosit” that everyone sings along with and toasts to at the end. The later in the day it is, the more people start standing on the benches as soon as the first few notes start. Get into the Oktoberfest spirit and learn the words here.

And Travel Savvy Gal’s *TOP* tip for Oktoberfest in Munich – Go during the week.

Everything is easier: finding hotel reservations, getting a seat in a tent, flagging down a server, and most importantly, making friends =)

Prost!!

Have you been to Oktoberfest in Munich? What were some of the things that surprised you? Or what was the most surprising thing for you from my list? Are you going to Oktoberfest and still have questions I can help with? Let me know in the Comments section below.

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13 Things to Know About Oktoberfest in Munich Germany Before You Go

Best Bites: Where to Eat in Rome

Best Bites: Where to Eat in Rome

Rome is a feast for the senses. The iconic sights, the sounds of the city, and the feel of the cobblestone under your feet as you stroll. And yes, of course, all of that delicious food.

You might sense a great restaurant first by the enticing aroma wafting toward you as you happen past. Or perhaps spying that gelateria with a line snaking out the door on a weekday afternoon.

Although I did a fair bit of planning before all of my trips to Rome, in the end it was the combination of my research, geography, and my senses telling me the signals were right that led to my favorite spots and my most delicious meals.

Sometimes I was at a museum or doing some sightseeing, then found a nearby gem. Other times I trekked across town to sample the food of a particular restaurant, and then got lost exploring the nearby neighborhood. All wonderful ways to really explore the wonders a city like Rome has to offer.

Read on for the results of my culinary wanderings and the delicious bites I enjoyed along the way.

Top Restaurant Picks

Al Vecchio Galeone

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I went when I stayed at a guesthouse nearby, and the “Old Galleon” was quite the seafood gem out of the heart of the city. I dined here solo and the staff were nothing but welcoming, and the food was Italian comfort food. There is definitely a relaxed vibe with the décor and friendliness, and lots of families were enjoying communal meals here as a place out where you can still get a pretty traditional home-cooked meal out of the house.

C’è pasta e pasta

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This is probably the most casual spot on my list, with food served cafeteria style. It’s piled high on your plate, heated up for you, then offered on a plastic cafeteria tray. There are an array of dishes coming from the 2,000+ year-old Roman Jewish culinary traditions, and this was what I came to sample. And it was delicious! Just ask the helpful staff to point you in the direction of the traditional options being offered that day, and it’s all certified kosher. And even though it’s cafeteria style, this is Italy after all, so enjoy your meal with a glass of wine.

Cesare al Casaletto

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This is the place to go for slightly upscale Roman cuisine, with the price and quality to match. Conveniently located at the end of a tram line from central Rome, you’ll savor impeccable service and well-executed dishes, although for me as a solo traveler it was a bit formal compared to the places I usually prefer.

Ditirambo

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This gem wasn’t on any list, but a quaint spot I stumbled upon on a centrally located pedestrian side street. Ask for what dishes are best that day, and you’ll be reward with beautifully presented and delicious food. Don’t miss the biscottini on offer at the end of the meal.

READ MORE: An Encounter in Rome

Osteria Bonelli

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This spot is wayyyyy off the beaten path for most tourists to Rome, but was hands-down my favorite meal in the city. Although I trekked quite a bit to eat here, I was rewarded with exploring a neighborhood on foot, and a prime viewing position by a quite intact section of the Aurelian wall around Rome. Plan an extended time to fit Osteria Bonelli into your itinerary, but it will be worth it for the down home traditional cooking that you order off the hand-written menu on a chalkboard – and a taste of what it’s like to experience Italy like a local.

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TIP! Reserve a table in advance so you’re not disappointed when you arrive. It may be far away from most tourists, but this place seems like it’s always packed!

Pizzarium Bonci

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Roman pizza may not be the image of pizza that first comes to mind. Most people conjure up the familiar round Neapolitan concoction, while Roman pizza is made in rectangular slabs. The good news? Unlike having to pick a single flavor for a round pizza all to yourself, you can mix and match different flavors, directing them behind the counter to cut each section in the size you’d like. This was my last stop before the train back to Milan, so I loaded up on several flavors I enjoyed en route and once I arrived, and they were all incredible.

TIP! Although I think that Roman pizza is best enjoyed in Rome, Pizzarium actually just opened an American outpost in Chicago this week for my American readers!

Trattoria del Gato Bianco

It’s central, and it’s some high-quality traditional Italian cuisine. There are lots of dishes to sample local Roman specialties, but really anything you order will be delicious. One of the better authentic options close to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and in the case of me and my sister, served by a welcoming Italian grandmother who doted on us.

Fancy Spots to Check out Next Time

As per usual, I left Rome on my last visit with a list of places for next time. Despite multiple trips, I haven’t yet experienced Rome’s fine dining scene. When I do, two places top my list:

La Pergola

This is your three-star Michelin dining, for the really exceptional splurge while in Rome. The tasting menu price will set you back quite a few Euros, but this is the foodie experience many dream of. This is the ultimate in fancy Rome dining for the truly special occasion.

Pataclara

Pataclara is my top pick for a splurge on my next visit to Rome. Although the website is entirely in Italian, you can see how each dish is a work of art when you click the link above. There are quite a number of options of dishes a la carte as well as 3 degustazioni, or tasting menus at different price points. You can certainly eat in Rome for less, but I get the impression that both the 45 and 60 tasting menus are an absolute bargain for how much you’ll enjoy the food here.

Gelato Spots

There are a lot of gelaterie in Rome, and I tried many more than made this list. For me, that perfect gelato has a combination of silky smooth texture mixed with intense flavor that gives you pause. Here are two spots where you’ll have that gelato epiphany:

Gelateria Fatamorgana

Think of the most crazy flavor combination you can. It’s probably one of your choices at any Fatamorgana branch around Rome, in addition to more traditional flavors. The good news is that wherever you are in the city, there’s probably one relatively close. I visited a branch not terribly far from the Colisseum, but just a far enough stroll that it was filled with neighborhood locals with barely another tourist in sight.

Gelateria dei Gracchi

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This is the only gelateria in Rome that wowed me so much that I visited twice in two days. There are a couple of centrally located outposts. I visited the one by the Lepanto metro stop, and was instantly transported to foodie heaven as I enjoyed their crema di pinoli flavor, which is luxuriously creamy and perfectly flavored with pine nut intensity. There’s a reason you’ll be lined up here with the locals.

There’s certainly no shortage of places to eat in Rome, but of course if you want a wonderful meal, that narrows the field considerably. Even if you’re limited on time and sticking to the tourist highlights, there are lots of great restaurants in close proximity – you just need to know where to go.

What are your favorite places to eat in Rome? Have you been to anywhere from the list? Any other restaurants I should try? Help me decide which spots to savor on my next visit!

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Best Bites - Where to Eat in Rome Italy

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