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How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium: Things to See, Do, and Eat!

How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium: Things to See, Do, and Eat!

One day in Ghent may just leave you wanting more. It is a perfect spot for a day trip though, combining a variety of things to do in close proximity, beautiful viewpoints, and easy access to and from nearby Belgian cities, including Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp.

But even if you only have one day in Ghent, it is worth visiting not only because it is easy to get to – which it is! – but there are some pretty incredible things to see while you’re there.

The city boasts a series of major churches all in a row, which is something rarely seen in any city anywhere. They all are beautiful to explore and have wonderful views of one another, plus there’s also a great spot on a nearby bridge overlooking them all.

Speaking of bridges, Ghent is one of many Belgian cities built on water, and you’ll get beautiful water views on the rivers and canals that wind through town.

Oh yeah, and did I mention there’s a castle?

Luckily all of these sights are quite close to one another, so one day in Ghent is all you’ll need to leisurely stroll between them and enjoy the city.

Below, check out the details on everything you need to know to visit, including my best tips for when you go!

Things to Do during One Day in Ghent

Churches & Nearby Viewpoints

Sint Baafs St Bavo Cathedral How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0209Sint Baafs St Bavo Cathedral How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0207

Sint-Baafs (St Bavo) Cathedral

Ghent has several churches but there is only one Cathedral, and beyond its 1,000+ year history and majestic beauty, this one boasts one of the most famous pieces of art in the world, the Ghent Altarpiece. This is the spot around to your left when you enter with its own ticket stand, where you can go and admire the details and images depicted on the different panels. The whole church is lovely though, and the Cathedral has the first of three medieval towers all lined up along this street.

TIP! The Ghent Altarpiece has its own visiting hours, so be sure to check before you go.

TIP! From noon until 1pm the panels of the Altarpiece are closed so you can see the reverse side. If you can, come around either the start or end of the hour so you get the opportunity to see both sides.

Sint Baafs St Bavo Cathedral How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0215

TIP! I had a little trouble finding the entrance, but don’t be shy about asking – one of the helpful volunteers pointed me toward the underground area with the oldest sections of the church.

Belfry Tower How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0389

Belfry Tower

The tallest belfry in Belgium and one of a group of belfries with the UNESCO World Heritage designation in the region (it has been around since the 1300s after all), this is the second of the medieval towers all in a row. And it’s made to be climbed! Take your time reaching the top and enjoy the views of the surrounding churches and city.

Belfry Tower view How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0253

TIP! Be mindful of when the bell is rung so you do not end up right next to the deafening sound.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BiCOQ1Snc8D/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

St Nicholas Church How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0282

St Nicholas Church

Honestly, I found St Nicholas Church to be more impressive from the outside than the inside, but it is worth taking a few minutes to stroll inside and spy the natural light streaming in through the unusually placed tower, which is the final medieval tower of three.

St Michaels Bridge How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0392

St Michael’s Bridge

Depending on which way you visit the churches and Belfry, this Bridge will either be first or last. Regardless of when you reach it, pause for a bit to take in the sweeping view of it all, with the three towers all lined up.

St Michaels Church How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0287

St Michael’s Church

I was honestly a bit churched-out after visiting the other spots, and only got a chance to appreciate it from the outside. The church is adjacent to the bridge and is also notable for the city, with a lot of famous artwork inside.

More Things to See and Do Around Town

Canals and Waterways How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0116Canals and Waterways How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0394

Canals and Waterways

Water views always get me, and there are plenty as you stroll along the canals and waterways of Ghent. If the weather is nice, the stroll from the train station is about a half hour and mostly goes along the water, with public sculptures and plenty of views along the way.

TIP! There are see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below).

Citadelpark How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0417

Citadelpark

After a day of sightseeing, there’s nothing like taking some time to sit and enjoy nature, and this park is quite a large green space, with plenty of spots to stroll or sit and read. I enjoyed spending some time here before I had to catch my train back to Antwerp, where I was staying.

Design Museum Gent

Don’t worry, this spot is still in town, Gent is just one of the alternate spellings you’ll see for the city. The Design Museum would have been a great spot to check out, but unfortunately I visited on a Wednesday, when they’re closed. If you get the CityCard Gent (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below), it’s already included, so would be worth popping in even if it’s just for a short while.

Ghent Marriott Hotel How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0310

Ghent Marriott Hotel

Not only are you likely to pass this spot anyway, if you look closely you’ll see the double swan symbol on its facade, betraying this hotel’s past as a 16th century brothel. Pretty random, I thought. Want to get to know it more intimately? Check out the ‘Where to Stay’ section below!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmyS2fWHFfq/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Graffiti Street How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0378

Graffiti Street

Just like it sounds, this “street” is actually an alleyway where the authorities turn a blind eye to the ever-changing graffiti that covers the walls and objects in every direction. It’s a fun place to stroll even though it is a pretty small.

TIP! If you’re looking for more street art around Ghent, there is a comprehensive map HERE.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm0xaPTnVLB/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Gravensteen Castle

There’s just something that always gets me when there is a castle right in the middle of a city. This one took me about an hour to stroll through the numbered stops tracing the castles history. Plus, there are great city views in all directions from its rooftop.

Gravensteen Castle View How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0328

‘t Galgenhuisje

This is a bar and also listed in the section below, however even if you’re not planning on sticking around and ordering a drink, it is worth strolling past just to see this spot. The terrace has a fair bit of seating, but the close quarters inside, including an extra-tiny upper level, make it Ghent’s smallest bar.

Where to Eat and Drink – Best Bites & Sips

Take Five Espresso How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0165Take Five Espresso How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! IMG_20180425_104441

Take Five Espresso

I arrived in Ghent first thing in the morning to maximize my day trip to the city, so I definitely was ready for some coffee when my train arrived. This spot is just a little ways away from the main sights, but worth seeking out because they offer some delicious coffees and pastries to jump start or day or as a snack along the way.

Bodo Restaurant How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0318Bodo Restaurant How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! IMG_20180425_133740

Bodo Restaurant

Even though the website is entirely in Dutch, English menus were available when I had a delicious meal with a view of nearby Gravesteen Castle (see above). You can even see the castle from the restroom there! The food is on the more expensive side, which makes sense given the location, but there are specials offered at a discount at lunch and everything was absolutely delicious.

It actually wasn’t my top choice although it turned out to be a great meal, but many other restaurants in that area only opened for dinner, or were specifically closed for lunch on Wednesdays. Other nearby options for local cuisine include De Gekroonde Hoofden and Mémé Gusta.

Cafe t'Galgenhuis How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0367Cafe t'Galgenhuis How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0358

‘t Galgenhuisje

Belgium is known for it’s beer, and there’s no better spot to sit and enjoy one than indoors at what is by far the smallest bar in Ghent. There were several seats available when I went mid-afternoon on a weekday, but I imagine it gets more packed at peak times. And c’mon, this is Belgium, of course the beer was delicious.

Cafe t'Galgenhuis How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0361

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

If you visit Ghent as a Day Trip, definitely do some advance planning so you can make the most of your time. Take a train on the earlier side if you can, to maximize your day, including how many hours you’ll be in town when the main attractions are open.

TIP! There is a great CityCard Gent that will get you in pretty much everywhere you’d like to go, and includes free public transportation around town.

TIP! Assuming you’re arriving by train – as most tourists do – consider buying the pass and having free public transit vs. the additional time walking from the train station to the city center (and back) or the cost of paying for transit separately.

TIP! The CityCard also includes access to hop on – hop off water tram if you visit on a weekend.

TIP! On Wednesday (which was the day I visited) several attractions were closed and some restaurants that normally serve lunch were closed for Wednesday lunch, so keep that in mind if you have the flexibility of which day to go.

READ MORE: 9 Top Belgium Travel Tips: What to Know Before You Go!

TIP! Even aside from Wednesday closures, there are a lot more restaurant options for dinner, especially for those serving local cuisine. So even if you’re visiting Ghent on a day trip, consider staying through dinner to enjoy another meal, just be sure to check your return train options in advance.

TIP! Watch out for bicycles!

Bicycles outside train station How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0418

Although I went to Ghent as a day trip, it is such a beautiful town and would be even more relaxing spread across several days.

Where to Stay

Ghent is great as a day trip from several other Belgian cities, but it would also make for a great weekend trip – and I have several friends who have enjoyed doing exactly that!

If you do stay over, here are some great accommodation options:

This spot is a bit of a splurge, with rooms located in the old post office and adorned with antique furniture in elegant surroundings.

AirBNB

Nearly all AirBNB properties will have a kitchen available so you can feel more at home and try your hand at cooking local ingredients or stick to a tight budget by not eating out. And it can often be one of the cheapest accommodation options in a city.

If you’ve never booked at an AirBNB before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

AirBNB ReferralWidget

Centrally located by the majority of the tourist attractions, it is a short walk from this 18th century townhouse to the sights you’ll want to see during your stay.

Right on the water in the cobblestone older section of Ghent, this is also your opportunity to stay at a former brothel from centuries before (see ‘More Things to See and Do Around Town’ section above).

TIP! You may be able to earn or use Marriott points if you are a frequent traveler with them or even through some airline frequent flier programs.

City View How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat! DSC_0227

Ghent has been one of my favorite Belgian cities to visit. It is less crowded than some of the other large cities, making it far more pleasant to stroll around town, especially during the day when you’ll see visitors from cruise ships or on airplane layovers at their peak in other cities. And it is large enough to have notable artwork and historical sights to keep every type of traveler entertained on a visit.

And if you live in Europe and Ghent is local for you, definitely stay for a full weekend of exploring!

What do you look for in a great day trip destination? Any sights in Ghent that I missed? What other day trips from Brussels or Antwerp or Bruges would you recommend? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium - Things to See, Do, and Eat!

Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

Florence, city of art and vibrancy and signature red rooftops, is likely to make it onto most Italy travel itineraries, so you’ll need all the best information on where to stay in Florence.

It was the seat of the Italian Renaissance and boasts incredible art, both inside its many notable museums and homes and also greeting you as you stroll through Florence’s many piazzas, or open squares. Whether you’re exploring the cobblestone backstreets or strolling along the River Arno, there seems to be no end to the treasures you’ll encounter walking around town.

     READ MORE: Top Things to Do in Florence

Since you’ll be out exploring on foot a lot throughout the day, it’s more important than it is in most destinations to have a good place not too far away to rest your head at night.

Whether your priority is proximity to the train station for when you arrive, being easy strolling distance to some great restaurants, or being somewhere with a more neighborhood feel, this list has something for you.

Thanks to three years of living in Milan (and lots of visitors in that time that wanted me to show them Florence), I have a fair bit of experience with the city. Plus, let’s be real, I could never turn down the opportunity to go because one of the most amazing things about Florence is THE FOOD. I mean look at how thick that steak is!

Meal Bistecca Fiorentina Where to Stay in Florence ItalyDSC_0125 (2)Meal Bo Whole Spread including Ribollita Where to Stay in Florence ItalyDSC_0127Meal Cantucci in vin santo Where to Stay in Florence Italy image (5)

I’ve probably visited the city at least a dozen times – and almost never stayed in the same place twice! My accommodation each visit depended on who I was traveling with, their budget, and how many of us were in the group. Plus, which places were available on any given set of dates.

There are lots of lists out there with accommodation suggestions, but this list is a bit different because . . . I have personally stayed everywhere on this list!

I am lucky in that I have positive things to say about most of the places, although I did have one hotel I probably wouldn’t stay again that I’ve included at the end of the post.

Happy trip planning!


Overall Information and Tips about Staying in Florence

In the next section I’ve organized my accommodation recommendations by category, and they cover quite a range. Each property is a little different, and which one will be the best fit for you depends on what you’re looking for.

I’ve included some rough rates as a general guideline, but the exact price you’ll be able to get also depends. It can vary with the time of year of your visit, the days of the week, and which type of rooms happen to be available.

So be sure to click each link to check on prices during the dates of your stay! Even if one of my recommendations appears to be out of your price range, you might be pleasantly surprised when you do. Hotels and guesthouses often run specials with cheaper rates periodically, and will typically be more affordable in low season or during the week.

TIP! If you are visiting in summertime (June to September) I recommend that you stay somewhere with air conditioning, as it can get quite hot. Many places in Italy don’t have A/C, so definitely check!

TIP! Be sure to look closely at all listings before you book, as they may not mirror the typical availability of amenities that you are used to back home. Like whether a room is non-smoking or has free WiFi or there is breakfast included – or any requirement, really.

     CHECK OUT: Travel Checklist for Booking Accommodations


Also think about your priorities for accommodation:

Are you arriving by train and want to stay somewhere close to the train station? I did this on 3 of my stays.

TIP! Be sure you check which train station you’ll arrive at, as Florence has more than one!

Do you have specific restaurants where you’ll be dining that you want to be easy walking distance back to hotel? You know I’ve done this one!

     READ MORE: Where to Eat: Best Bites (& Sips) in Florence, Italy

Do you want to stay somewhere close to the historical center, by the Duomo (Cathedral)?

Or do you want to stay somewhere away from the peak crowds? Or close to the river?

River Views Where to Stay in Florence Italy DSC_0077

Do you want to stay somewhere with access to a kitchen to cook some of your meals or have breakfast on your own?

How many people are in your group? Is it more economical to get 2 hotel rooms (or a suite) or stay in an AirBNB?

     READ MORE: 6 Most Frequently Asked Questions (Answered!) about Florence, Italy

Not to worry, all of the listings below include some key landmarks around Florence and the walking distance to each, and options that fit all the questions I’ve included above. Decide which destinations are a priority for *YOU* to be close to where you’re staying and also realistically how much walking you’re willing to do in a single day – it adds up quickly!

And without further ado . . .

Where to Stay in Florence

On a Budget or With a Group

AirBNB

Location: All over town!

Price: as little as $100/€80 per night or less for 2 people

Why I Liked It:

I’ve stayed at 2 different AirBNB‘s in Florence. One was a 2-bedroom apartment close to the train station for 4 guests and the other was further afield in a neighborhood east of the historical center for 2 guests. Both hosts were very hospitable and the properties were great value, especially when it was a larger apartment with the cost split four ways. It’s especially helpful because nearly all AirBNB properties will have a kitchen available so you can feel more at home and try your hand at cooking local ingredients or stick to a tight budget by not eating out.

     READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

If you’ve never tried it before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

AirBNB ReferralWidget

Basic Accommodations

Hotel Nuova Italia

Location: 5-minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station, 2-minute walk to the Mercato Centrale (central market), 7-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $100/€85 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

Although the décor is a bit dated, the rooms are comfortable and this hotel is all about location, location, location. It’s only a short walk from most places, and probably quite close to everywhere you want to go. Great value for money.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

Le Stanze del Duomo

Location: 10-minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station, 2-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $150/€120 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

The name says it all – these rooms are incredibly close to the Duomo (Cathedral) in Florence, although surprisingly quiet despite the proximity. The rooms are bright and comfortable, and there was a great breakfast included at a nearby cafe on Piazza Duomo.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

More Upscale Hotels

Hotel Principe

Location: Close to the river and many great restaurants, 15-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $200/€160 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

Lots of hotels around Florence have arrangements with garages, but honestly, I’ve never had much luck since they are often hard to find. Between one-way streets, poor signage, weak GPS signals in between buildings, and street closures for markets and events, parking a car in Florence is often a time-consuming (and sometimes expensive) adventure when you can’t find your intended garage. So having their own (FREE!) parking lot out back was a huge draw for my first visit to Hotel Principe and one of the main reasons this is the only hotel on the list that I’ve stayed at more than once.

     READ MORE: Top Tips for Taking a Road Trip in Europe

Even beyond the parking, the hotel is upscale but not too pricey, and includes a wonderful breakfast. Plus the location is great – right by the river and a short stroll to some of my favorite restaurants in Florence.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

Hotel Santa Maria Novella

Location: 2-minute walk to the Santa Maria Novella train station and many great restaurants, 5-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)

Price: $300/€250 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:

This is a very nice hotel. It’s also an easy stroll from the main train station in Florence, even if you have a lot of luggage. The hotel is set on a beautiful, grassy piazza near a lovely church and is close to some of my favorite Florence dinner spots. It’s also quite close to the main attractions in Florence, so it is easy to pop back during the day to rest for a bit or take a nap if you’d like.

Explore prices and availability HERE.

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Wouldn’t Stay Here Again

Hotel Cestelli

While the location was great, the couple that ran this hotel was a bit awkward interacting with guests. They were weird about leaving keys behind and what time of day our group would be coming and going. And although the location was central and close to the water, it was hard to find places open early for breakfast nearby, which was not included with the room. With so many great accommodation options in Florence, I wouldn’t stay here again unless in a pinch.

     READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Well there you have it, that’s my rundown from my many nights staying over in the beautiful Tuscan city of Florence. There are a wealth of options no matter your budget or location preference, so pick the spot that is right for you and you’ll be able to focus on enjoying your time in Florence.

Happy travels!
Lana


Do you have any questions about any of the accommodations? Have you stayed anywhere on this list? I’d love to hear about your experiences staying in Florence, let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Where to Stay in Florence Italy

Yayoi Kusama’s Art: Exhibitions I’ve Seen & Where to Catch Her Next

Yayoi Kusama’s Art: Exhibitions I’ve Seen & Where to Catch Her Next

Disclaimer: I visited the Moderna Museet in Stockholm as a guest/participant of the TBEX Conference & Visit Stockholm. Opinions are all mine, of course – I always tell it like it is.

How did I go from Kusama being an artist I had never heard of and just happened to stumble upon to waiting almost 3 hours to see an exhibit of hers last month?

Like all great travel experiences, walking through a Kusama exhibition makes me feel like a tiny speck in a giant universe and compels me to look out on the world with a new sense of wonder.

Usually those sensations for me are reserved for being out in nature or standing in the shadow of a great architectural marvel – like hiking through tea plantations in Sri Lanka or ascending the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. In the case of Kusama, she masterfully achieves this effect within the confines of museum walls.

And even though my almost 3-hour wait was just to get tickets, and doesn’t include the time waiting at each of the individual infinity mirror rooms, I thought it was definitely worth it for the experience!

About Kusama

I think the most surprising thing for me about Kusama is her age. She was born in the 1920s, and is pushing 90 years old today (while still creating art)!

Like many artists, she had a rough childhood. Then in her teenage years, she began having hallucinations of dots, which became a fixation throughout her career. According to Kusama, it is the dots that transport you to infinity.

As the friend I made while waiting in line at the recent Washington, DC exhibit observed, “her art feels so modern, I thought everything here was new.”

And that is another thing about Kusama, her edginess is timeless. Her art felt shockingly modern and avant garde back in the 1950s and 60s, and that same art feels equally innovative today.

Kusama: In Infinity @ the Moderna Museet in Stockholm, Sweden

Flashback to less than a year ago at the TBEX travel blogging conference in Stockholm, Sweden. I made plans to attend fairly last-minute, so I ended up on a tour that was relatively random for me during the afternoon leading up to the start of the conference: Art & Architecture.

The itinerary was already planned for us, and while I glanced briefly at the list of museums we’d be visiting, I didn’t do any research into what exactly we might be seeing when we arrived.

Our first stop was the Moderna Museet, Stockholm’s modern art museum. We saw a few exhibits there with a guide, but it was the Kusama exhibition that was the most memorable by far.

I’m not a huge art buff, and had never heard of Kusama. And honestly, I probably wouldn’t have sought out the modern art museum there on my own, but it just happened to be included on my tour.

I got a sense of how prominent an artist she is when the museum entrance was plastered with dots and what I now know to be one of her signature pumpkins covered in dots:

Stockholm Pumpkin Kusama Exhibit Moderna Museet Stockholm Sweden DSC_0603

Although I didn’t know to call it this at the time, there was also one “infinity mirror room.” This one featured spotted lanterns covered in black dots with lights inside that kept shifting color. Infinity rooms are basically enclosed boxes with every surface a mirror, so the items in the room (and your reflection!) are everywhere you look, multiplied many times:

Stockholm Infinity Mirror Room Kusama Exhibit Moderna Museet Stockholm Sweden DSC_0606Stockholm Infinity Mirror Room Kusama Exhibit Moderna Museet Stockholm Sweden DSC_0610

Maybe it’s just the math teacher in me, but I like geometry and shapes, and the uniformity of the reflections in all directions appeals to me. Especially with the contrast of spherical globes covered in circles, and then inside a square space.

The Stockholm exhibit also had a lot of art displayed in open areas, including the other Kusama work there that struck me the most.

Instead of a surface with dots painted on, this exhibit consisted of highly polished and reflective silver spheres each about the size of a basketball. I definitely was under the impression that this was a new exhibit, although I later read that it had originally been created for the Venice Biennale in 1966!

Stockholm Narcissus Garden Kusama Exhibit Moderna Museet Stockholm Sweden 20160713_155009

Kusama is known for being particular about how her art is displayed and experienced, and this display was no exception. When a single ball rolled a bit out of place while I was there, someone from the museum came over wearing white gloves to replace it in its correct spot:

Stockholm Narcissus Garden Kusama Exhibit Moderna Museet Stockholm Sweden 20160713_154941

And of course, like many of Kusama works with interesting titles, this one is aptly named – Narcissus Garden. Although I didn’t know that when I captured this shot with my reflection, many times over:

Stockholm Narcissus Garden Kusama Exhibit Moderna Museet Stockholm Sweden DSC_0620

Kusama: Infinity Mirrors @ the Hirshhorn Museum in Washington, DC, USA

After my experience in the infinity mirror room in Stockholm, I had a sense of what to expect in DC. The pleasant surprise is that for the Infinity Mirrors exhibition, it really is a comprehensive retrospective of Kusama’s 65-year career.

Kusama at her core is known for her dots, and you’ll see them throughout the exhibit. They are not only in the rooms but also painted in different configurations on canvas, decorating 3-dimensional figures, and part of mini flashing displays you peer into to get the effect of the full-size infinity room.

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The mini infinity mirror room that mesmerized me the most was called Love Forever, and had two square windows on different sides for two people to peer in simultaneously.

DC small Infinity Mirror Room Love Forever DC Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC DSC_0310

But of course, the focus was mostly on the infinity mirror rooms. And waiting to see them was the bulk of your time in the exhibit.

The 5 main infinity mirror rooms:

Phalli’s Field

DC Infinity Mirror Room Phalli's Field Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC DSC_0265

I liked how bright this room was with the simple color scheme of white and red. It was easy to see all the reflections generated when the room was completely closed.

Aftermath of Obliteration of Eternity

DC Infinity Mirror Room Aftermath of Obliteration of Eternity Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC 20170503_133736

Entering this infinity room involved a bit of ducking as there are lanterns hanging down at different heights. But they really appear to take up the whole space, so it’s a bit other-worldly to see yourself among the lights.

All the Eternal Love I Have for the Pumpkins

At the Hirshhorn this was the only room where a staff member entered with you, and also where cameras were prohibited when I went, due to a previous incident (presumed to be caused by a selfie) in which one of the lit pumpkins was damaged.

This shot of me and a pumpkin painted yellow outside the museum gives an idea of what it was like in the infinity mirror room with the (smaller) lit pumpkins:

DC Pumpkin Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC US DSC_0254

Love Transformed into Dots

This was the infinity mirror room that was most similar to the one I saw in Stockholm, except that this room was only with pink spheres with black dots, instead of the multi-color display I had seen previously. Still a lot of fun!

DC Infinity Mirror Room Love Transformed into Dots Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC DSC_0272DC Infinity Mirror Room Love Transformed into Dots Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC DSC_0274

The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away

DC Infinity Mirror Room The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC DSC_0313

I perceived this room as two levels of colors standing inside, so it definitely felt as if you were gazing out toward a distant horizon.

Even with the fast-paced nature of the timing, it was really incredible when the staff closed the door behind you and you were completely enclosed by mirrors and light reflections. And it actually turned out to be a plus for many of the rooms to be only 1 person, as even with my new friend with me in line, I got to go in completely alone for several of the rooms.

I also loved the concept of the Obliteration Room, which was the final part of the exhibit before exiting. It was very cool and interactive, and I had actually seen friends’ pictures already before I went.

But what I didn’t realize from the photos was that it wasn’t paint splotches artistically thrown on the walls, but stickers! The room actually started off completely white, including the furniture, and then a staff member handed each person a sheet of 6 different-colored stickers as they left the exhibition:

DC Obliteration Room Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC US DSC_0332

By the time I got there several months in, it looked like this:

DC Obliteration Room Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC US DSC_0324

As you can see, it was pretty crowded, but with a little patience and smart camera angling, it wasn’t too hard to get some good shots all on your own:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BTpsmzHA1_s/

It was such a fun place for a final frolic, and the best part is that after all the queuing, there is no time limit for the Obliteration Room.

Where You Can See Kusama’s Artwork Next

Even if you missed seeing the Kusama exhibitions in Stockholm and Washington, DC, lucky for you the DC exhibition is now embarking on a North American tour through late 2018. Never traveled for art before? Here’s your chance!

The Kusama Infinity Mirrors exhibition, will be appearing:

June 30, 2017 – September 10, 2017
Seattle Art Museum
Seattle, WA, USA
*As of June 1st, tickets are completely sold out, but limited same-day tickets will be available on-site on a first-come, first-served basis

October 21, 2017-January 10, 2018
The Broad
Los Angeles, CA, USA
*Although ticketing details are not yet released for October, between now and September 30th there is already a Kusama “infinity room” on display at The Broad if you’re able to visit.

March 3, 2018 – May 27 2018
Art Gallery of Ontario
Toronto, Canada
*Ticketing details to be announced.

July 7, 2018 – September 30, 2018
Cleveland Museum of Art
Cleveland, OH, USA
*Ticketing details to be announced.

November 18, 2018 – February 17, 2019
The High
Atlanta, GA, USA
*Ticketing details to be announced.

Practical Tips for Visiting

The laid back Kusama exhibit I visited in Stockholm was a bit different from the current Hirshhorn-organized exhibition Infinity Mirrors that is heading around North America over the next eighteen months. Since the exhibit has multiple infinity mirror rooms that only allow a few people in at a time, tickets will likely be extremely limited at all of the museums mentioned above.

First, I would say that while the Seattle exhibition (which starts at the end of this month) is already sold out for advance tickets, exact policies have not been announced for the other 3 cities. If you’re planning to catch Kusama in Los Angeles, Toronto, or Cleveland, definitely get on the respective museum’s mailing list or follow them on social media to be the first to learn about getting tickets.

Even if you try your best to score advance tickets, realize that you may not succeed. When Infinity Mirrors was in DC, I tried multiple times for the advance timed tickets that were released weekly, but was never successful at getting them. Which is not surprising when the Hirshhorn revealed that during one March week, nearly 60,000 people were vying for fewer than 10,000 advance passes!

And even during the week in DC, there were looooong lines to get in, so I definitely debated whether I thought I should go.

For the first several months, getting there 1 hour or so before museum opening time was sufficient to get a timed ticket for later in the day. As the exhibition closing date approached, lines got significantly longer, earlier in the morning.

I went on a Wednesday during last 2 weeks of exhibit. I arrived around 8:30am, with the museum opening at 10:00am. And I was far enough back in the line – several hundred people – that it then took another 1 hour to receive the timed tickets.

DC Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC US DSC_0217

I ended up with a 1:00pm ticket, which was the earliest time slot available when I got to the front of the queue. And there were plenty of people who lined up by the 10:00am opening, but were so far back in the line that they got turned away when timed tickets ran out.

So yes, go for same-day tickets, but plan ahead!

TIP! Bring a book. Between my earplugs and Kindle, I had a blissful 90 minutes of reading as I waited outside.

TIP! Prepare to wait, even if you’ve been lucky enough to get advance tickets. Even beyond the waiting to obtain a timed ticket, there is a separate queue for all of the infinity mirror rooms. One of the individual lines I waited on took 45 minutes! Overall, I spent around 2 hours at the exhibit, and about 1.5 hours of that time was waiting in line. Time-wise there is definitely a lot more waiting than reward, although it gives you more time to ponder and discuss the art.

DC Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC US DSC_0275

TIP! Bring a friend or be ready to make one. You’ll probably want someone else there to take pictures of you and especially to keep you entertained waiting in line. It was also helpful that I made a friend pretty quickly because then we took turns holding a spot in line while the other one explored the rest of the exhibits. Although for many the infinity mirror rooms are the main attraction, there is a fair bit of Kusama’s art besides the infinity rooms on display.

TIP! Dress the part! Some people wore solid colors like me, while others arrived decked out in polka dotted dresses or outrageous outfits. If you go, you’re probably only going to go once, so dress for the pictures you want. Also consider that you’ll be spending a lot of time on your feet.

DC Obliteration Room Kusama Exhibit Hirshhorn Museum Washington DC US DSC_0342

TIP! Take a nice camera. There are a lot of flashing lights and illuminated sections, so if you have a nice camera, you’ll want to have it with you to capture everything.

TIP! Jump around between the infinity rooms if you can. Fortunately in DC you didn’t need to visit the infinity mirror rooms in order, so I skipped ahead to some shorter lines and then backtracked as the other lines eased. For whatever reason with the exhibit’s layout, one line was always long – that was the one where I waited 45 minutes.

TIP! Be ready when it’s your turn to enter the infinity room. Even if you’ve been waiting a while, as you approach the front of the line, pay attention. At least in DC, you could enter each infinity mirror room for only 20-30 seconds each, so people move through quickly. All of the Hirshhorn staff had timers to track this, and it goes by quicker than you’d think.

Half a minute is not a lot of time to reflect, stare in wonder, gaze into infinity, wonder about the universe, and also capture the perfect selfie inside. But it’s worth the experience of trying.

Have you experienced Kusama’s art before? Would you ever plan a trip around an art exhibition? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the ‘Comments.’

Like this post? ‘Pin it’ for later!

Kusama Infinity Mirrors Art Exhibition - What I've Seen, Tips for Visiting & Where It's Headed Next US Canada

Venice CHEAT SHEET

Venice CHEAT SHEET

You could spend weeks in Venice without exhausting your options for museums to explore, churches to visit, and places for a delicious meal. But since your time visiting will likely be much more limited, here’s the Travel Savvy Gal “cheat sheet” for the essentials:

Things to Do

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Rialto Bridge

It’s iconic. It is quite tall, so offers a great view of the Grand Canal. You’re decently likely to pass it anyway as you wander Venice, but in case not, seek it out at least once.

St. Mark’s Square

This is the piazza you see in many of the typical photographs of Venice. With several tourist attractions right on the square you’ll likely be here already. When you are, take some time in the square itself to appreciate its grandeur.

Doge’s Palace

Exploring here will give you a solid insight into Venetian history and life.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s worth reserving a ticket for the Doge’s Palace in advance, as you’ll have a much shorter queue to enter.

I of course recommend visiting for longer if you can, but if you only have one day in Venice, read more about how to spend One Day in Venice for tips about making the most of your limited time.

Churches of Note

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St. Mark’s Basilica

If you’re going to see one sight in Venice, this should be it. The decoration is a little over-the-top for my personal preference, but the church is just incredible.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Lines to enter the Basilica can be long, so reserve a time slot in advance on the “Reservations” section on the website linked above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to go to the outdoor terraces for a lovely view of St. Mark’s Square.

Basilica dei Frari

There are more sections to this basilica than meets the eye, so it was a wonderful place to explore and see a variety of artwork and carved altars in different mediums.

Off the Beaten Path

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Islands

As you know from my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice, it’s definitely worth it to set aside the time to explore some of Venice’s islands beyond the main sections. If you do take a day to island-hop, the best meal I’ve had outside of Venice’s main areas was on the island of Murano – see the Best Bites section below.

Jewish Museum & Ghetto Tour

While 2016 marked 500 years since the establishment of the Jewish Ghetto in Venice, Jewish life has existed in the city for even longer. The museum gives a good overview, and the tour of the ghetto is engaging and excellent.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Typical tour times may be altered for the Sabbath (from late Friday through Saturday) and on Jewish holidays, so verify availability in advance.

Clock Tower

The tower requires advance booking, which you can do not far in advance at the ticket office on the other side of St. Mark’s Square. It’s a different perspective on the area, and has some great views of St. Mark’s (the Square and the Basilica) from the upper levels.

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Biennale

There is a massive art exhibition in odd-numbered years, with pavilions by country that contain some fairly progressive art. Most are located in the Giardini area, although there are pavilions all around the city. Even-numbered years have been focusing on architecture.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

The art collection here is truly outstanding, and is situated with some lovely sculpture gardens and terraces on the Grand Canal. Worth a visit, although not typical to Venice per se.

Best Bites (favorite restaurants)

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Corte Sconta

A well-known fish restaurant, you can get a tasting menu of small plates to sample the variety of Venetian seafood, for a minimum of two people. It also has popular pasta and gnocchi specials daily that I’ve found to be quite delicious – be sure to ask your server about these as they’re not printed in the menu.

La Lanterna da Gas

Some of the portion sizes are quite sizeable, so order accordingly or ask your server for recommendations. While large, the polenta with baccalà (salt cod) appetizer was exceptional.

Osteria al Duomo

Located on the island of Murano, there are a variety of typical Italian pastas, meat dishes, and pizzas on offer. I had a seafood carbonara here that I still dream about.

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Vecia Cavana

An institution for Venetian cuisine with a lot of local customers, a meal here can be a good value or extravagant, depending on what you order. Although known for its fish options, the standout dish on my recent visit was the fried liver and polenta.

Best Bites (for cicchetti, Venetian tapas)

My three favorite spots are listed below. Check out my cicchetti post for a thorough run-down of different spots for Venetian tapas, organized by neighborhood.

Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi

This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice, so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city. I like it for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.

Do Spade

This long-time Venetian spot has solid cicchetti choices and a traditional atmosphere. There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition.

Osteria al Cicheto

Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists. This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may walk past the turn off the main street the first time like I did, but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice – Best Spots to Sample Cicchetti

Best Bites (gelato)

I haven’t loved any of the gelato I’ve had in Venice, although I’ve tried many places. I’d recommend waiting to be in other parts of Italy to savor some frozen goodness, but if the craving hits in Venice, these are the best places I’ve tried:

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Gelatoteca SuSo

A bit hard to find, but many agree that this is Venice’s top gelato spot.

La Mela Verde

Their signature green apple flavor (mela verde in Italian) is my favorite of what I’ve sampled.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Venice

What’s your favorite part about Venice?  Share in the Comments below.

Happy Travels! Lana

Venice Italy Cheat Sheet - Best Things to Do and Eat

Where to Stay in Venice, Italy

Where to Stay in Venice, Italy

 

How does one person become an expert on where to stay in Venice, Italy?

In this case, live in Milan for several years, under 3 hours by train from Venice, and visit often like I did!

Venice was so close to Milan that I visited often, sometimes even as part of a last-minute weekend plan. So when people ask me about where to stay in Venice, Italy, I have quite a few ideas from all of the great places I’ve stayed.

Amazingly, I never repeated a hotel or B&B stay in my many trips. Partly because it’s fun to explore new neighborhoods and get to know the city, and also because there was one trip with my parents when they visited, one as a solo traveler, another with friends, and so on.

Which is good news for you, because I have *personally stayed* at almost all of the places listed below. And can attest to what great jumping off points they are for exploring this magical city.

I don’t know that there is one singular best place to stay in Venice – either a specific hotel or neighborhood – but there are certainly are many best places to stay in Venice, Italy.

And let’s be real, this is life, not every experience was completely magical. So I’ve also included plenty of TRAVEL SAVVY TIPS and resources to help you avoid common pitfalls that come along with staying in Venice – so you can focus on enjoying this incredible city!

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Where to Stay in Venice, Italy

As you’ll see in your research, there is no one right or easy answer as to where to stay in Venice.

It may depend on:

  • Whether you are traveling solo or as a couple or in a group
  • Whether you are traveling with family or friends
  • If this is your first trip to Venice or a return visit
  • How many nights you’ll be staying

Are you overwhelmed yet?

I am all smiles strolling around Venice, Italy and the side canals
I am all smiles strolling around Venice, Italy and the side canals

Not to worry, while the options are many, I think there are really some very basic things to keep in mind.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most visitors when deciding where to stay in Venice will either want to be close to the train station OR close to the main tourist sights around St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco. → Decide which you’d prefer.

And it’s also important to keep in mind that Venice is not like other cities you’ve ever visited. For one, there are NO CARS.

So it helps to have some idea of what sights you’ll see on your visit, and how much walking you’d like to do to pick the best location to stay in Venice.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Regardless of where in Venice you stay, I always recommend staying close to a stop for the vaporetto, which is Venice’s metro system – by boat! It is a great way to get around the city and even to some of the islands you can’t reach by strolling across a bridge, like Murano and Burano.

Best Places to Stay in Venice, Italy

Now this is the part you’ve been waiting for – specific recommendations of places you can stay that are convenient, affordable (or maybe even a splurge!) and considered to be in a best location to stay in Venice

Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to St. Mark’s Square

If this is your first trip to Venice, let’s face it, you probably want to stay close to St. Mark’s Square, known in Italian as Piazza San Marco. That is where many iconic sights are located, and you’ll get to view them at all hours of the day as you explore.

While you’ll need to get yourself from the train or bus to your hotel (most likely by boat, of course!) once you have dropped off your luggage, Venice will be at your doorstep.

Arriving at the airport in Venice?

Check out options for airport transfers HERE

There is also a bus from the Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma (right by the train station and main vaporetto metro boat stops) that runs every 20-30 minutes and costs €8 one-way or €15 for a round-trip ticket.

Find the current bus timetable for the “Venice Marco Polo Airport – Venice Piazzale Roma (express service)” HERE

FOR AFFORDABLE LUXURY

Locanda Al Leon

St. Mark's Square Piazza San Marco in Venice Italy
Just a few steps from here to get back to Locanda al Leon

Location:
3-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
3-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats) with a lot of available routes

Price:
$150/€130 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
I got lucky and was able to stay here last minute on a July visit and can attest that even though it is a gorgeous, historic building with a traditional Venetian feel, the A/C is modern and will combat the hottest day you might face in Venice. The staff is very hospitable and it really is a beautiful property. Plus, the hotel is in a great location, so it’s really great value for money.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! They also have some cheaper single rooms if you are a solo traveler.

Read Reviews | Book Now

QUAINT B&B

Residenza Corte Antica

View of Ponte all'Accademia Where to Stay in Venice Italy
View of Ponte all’Accademia, the bridge over the Grand Canal in Venice

Location:
10-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
4-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
2- minute walk to the Bridge of the Accademia/Ponte dell’Accademia (one of the few bridges that crosses the Grand Canal!)

Price:
$160/€140 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
With a 5.0 score on Trip Advisor with 500+ reviews, who doesn’t love this Bed & Breakfast? Although I have not been able to stay here yet, this is my top choice for my next visit to Venice. While an easy walk to St. Mark’s Square and the main tourist sites, it is also close to a bridge across the Grand Canal that gets less attention than Rialto Bridge, but is just as beautiful. Plus, some of my favorite Venice attractions are right across the bridge. The B&B is recently renovated and reviewers talk about the beautiful property, delicious breakfast, great service, and excellent recommendations around Venice from staff. This is in a quieter part of San Marco quarter, which is a plus for me as well.

Read Reviews | Book Now

Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to the Train Station

Train Station Santa Lucia in Venice Italy
Train Station Santa Lucia in Venice Italy

The main train station in Venice, Stazione Santa Lucia, has the advantage of also being close to most of the various metro (vaporetto) lines, so it is an easy jumping off point, regardless of where you’d like to explore around Venice.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be aware that a “hotel close to the Train Station” may also be over a bridge with a lot of stairs, so consider the exact location of your accommodation when deciding which luggage to use for your trip.

READ MORE: 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

This is my favorite part of Venice to stay, because it is accessible to boats and exploring by foot, but is far away enough from the main tourist hub to have a more relaxed feel. You also have better food options nearby if you’re tired after a day of sightseeing and want to stay close by.

GRAND CANAL VIEW & ROOFTOP BAR

Hotel Carlton

Hotel Carlton Grand Canal view from the room
Hotel Carlton Grand Canal view from my room!

Location:
5-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a tall bridge)
5-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)

Price:
$200-300/€190-270 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
This is one of the absolutely closest hotels you can find by the train station, which is your likely arrival point. It’s just a short walk from the station and over a bridge, with plenty of locals lined up to help you with your luggage (for a charge, of course). As for the hotel, it’s the only room I’ve stayed at in Venice with a view of the Grand Canal, so if you splurge for a canal view room you are in for a treat. When my parents visited we stayed here, and they were able to get a good deal through a travel agent back home. Plus, their rooftop bar, the Sky Lounge, is a luxurious spot to spend the evening sipping away as you look out over the water.

Read Reviews | Book Now

TOP-RATED HOTEL ON TRIP ADVISOR

Hotel Moresco

Bridge to cross in Venice Italy

Location:
8-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a bridge)
8-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)

Price:
$250-300/€230-280 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
Although I haven’t stayed here, this would be the ultimate splurge hotel in Venice, still with the convenience of the location close to the train station. Those who have been lucky enough to stay here rave about the service and note that staff members exceed expectations so everyone had excellent stays. Although close for getting around, it is also in a quieter neighborhood than the Hotel Carlton above.

Read Reviews | Book Now

CHEAPEST OPTION (& FOR SOLO TRAVELERS/GROUPS)

Ca’ Riza

An alleyway all to myself on the way to Ca' Riza in Venice Italy
An alleyway all to myself on the way to Ca’ Riza

Location:
10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station
20-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
10-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)

Price:
$110-160/€100-150 per night, approximately

Why I Liked It:
The word ca’ is a shortened version of casa, or house, and there is definitely a homey feel for this place. This was my favorite spot to stay as a solo traveler, and is more affordable than other spots due to having a shared bathroom for the single rooms. The property also has double, triple, and quadruple rooms with private bathrooms. The location is in easy walking distance to stop of my favorite cicchetti and restaurant spots, and also has been renovated since my last stay.

Read Reviews | Book Now

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice – Best Spots to Sample Cicchetti

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Where to Stay With a Group or Family

While there’s always the chance of scoring a great hotel or B&B deal, I find that for more than 2 people, an AirBNB is typically the cheapest and most convenient accommodation option – not just in Venice, but in all of Italy!

If you’ve never tried it before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

AirBNB ReferralWidget

Before booking your AirBNB, definitely read reviews and make sure that other guests have had their stay go smoothly, as not all Venice AirBNB experiences are good ones.  (For my one bad AirBNB experience in Venice, I ended up staying the rest of the weekend at the lovely Locanda al Leon – the first spot on this list – which completely redeemed the trip!)

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Pay extra attention to the availability of the host in case of a problem. Also check reviews to see if people met their host quickly or waited a long time, which happens more frequently with AirBNBs in Venice vs. other places.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you visit in summer, be sure that there was adequate A/C noted by other guests (and that the property has it in the first place!).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving very early or late in the day, make sure there will be someone available at your arrival time.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to have the ability to call local phone numbers and/or be on a data signal to use apps to get in touch with the person you are meeting, if needed.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Of course, you may be surprised to learn that AirBNB can sometimes be more expensive than a hotel, so I always recommend checking your options so you can make an informed choice:

Explore AirBNB options in Venice HERE

Check Hotel and B&B prices in Venice HERE

Tips on Where to Stay in Venice and Booking Strategies

For most visitors, the challenge is not where to stay in Venice, but how to get to your accommodation once you arrive in the city!

Since cars are not allowed in Venice, visitors basically arrive by bus or train (the stations for both are close to one another), and then make their way to a hotel or guesthouse on foot or by boat.

While some hotels offer shuttle service to arrive, I’ve always found my way on my own.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Whatever your plan, take into account how you will arrive and how far somewhere is from the train station when making your hotel booking.

When deciding on where to stay in Venice, you can quickly check details using the public transportation option on Google Mapsin Venice, it shows you boat routes!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Sometimes B&Bs are more expensive than hotels – and sometimes the reverse is true – so be sure to check for Venice accommodations with your dates inserted to compare prices and availability.

TripAdvisor

However you decide to book, be sure to consult the Travel Savvy Gal Checklist for Booking Accommodation to make sure there’s nothing you forget to check when you decide where to stay in Venice.

Once you’ve booked, wherever you’re staying will likely provide information on the best way to arrive, whether it is by foot or boat.

Actv metro boat/vaporetto in Venice, Italy
Actv metro boat (vaporetto) in Venice, Italy

BOAT OPTIONS

If you are figuring this out on your own, there are 2 main boat options:

Boat Taxi – this is different from the metro boat (vaporetto) and different from a gondola. Just like you can hail a car taxi on a city street, you can grab a boat taxi leaving the docks next to the train station.

Boat Metro (vaporetto) – Like in any other city, the public transportation option will be the cheapest. You can purchase vaporetto tickets from a machine in person when you arrive, or arrange it ahead of time as part of a Venice City Pass. There is also an app for your mobile phone: the AVM Venezia Official App.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! No matter how you purchase your vaporetto ticket, be sure to validate the ticket by scanning it with the machine on the dock outside of the train station. They will come and check sometimes and you could be fined if you forget!

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid the Biggest Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Want to know more about Venice and making the most of the city? Check out my other Venice posts!

READ MORE: 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice – Best Spots to Sample Cicchetti

READ MORE: 11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice

READ MORE: Venice Cheat Sheet

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Going to other places in Italy on your visit?

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence

READ MORE: Best Bites: Where to Eat in Rome

READ MORE: Naples Cheat Sheet

And for some more tips on traveling across Italy:

READ MORE: Top 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

READ MORE: Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

Plus, invest in a hard copy (or electronic!) guide for extra trip planning details and inspiration:

Lonely Planet Italy Guidebook

Italy Travel Guide

Venice City Guide, including Day Trips

Pocket Venice Guide

Italian Phrasebook & Dictionary

Happy travels!

Lana

Are there any questions about staying in Venice that I haven’t answered yet? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

Planning a trip to Venice sometime soon (or want to)? Or not ready to book yet? ‘Pin’ this post to save for later!

Where to Stay in Venice Italy Best Places for TravelSavvyGal websiteWhere to Stay in Venice Italy St. Mark's Square Piazza San Marco

Travel Story: Experiencing Flamenco in Seville, Spain

Travel Story: Experiencing Flamenco in Seville, Spain

 

Duende.

It is mystical, powerful, emotional. A word that defies definition.

Embodied in the flourish of a bullfighter snapping his red cape in an impassioned ¡Olé!

Captured in the intensity of the flamenco music and dance.

Or in my case, the primal wonder I too felt, experiencing a performance of flamenco in Seville.

Flamenco in One Word: Duende.

Carnal, primal
The lone square of dance floor
The stomp
The clap
The hip sway
The allure

Inviting the audience in
Then repelling us in a moment, with the quick double snap of the castanets

Other spots cater to tourists with performers on a stage
But this spot is real, personal
Low-key with nachos and pitchers of sangria
Two shows nightly

I’m so entranced by the first performance
My friend and I know instantly we’ll stay for both

The performers change but the sustained intensity is real
The passion for the craft
The pride in recreating those time-honored, ancient steps
with feeling
making them personal
The raw emotion of falling in love and losing it all
The intensity and depth of feeling that comes through with every step
every sultry, seductive beckoning

And I’m so close
I can see the beads of sweat
Feel her eyes sear through me
The artist at work
With feeling
It all feels so personal in this moment
And everyone in the room channels the electricity

This is flamenco
The reason everyone seeks it out
To live the emotional arc
Be brought up high, only to land grounded at the earth at the end
Feeling touched by the experience
Emotions at the surface
This is what it means to live
To live your art
Art is life.

Pictures are not allowed of the performances, which I realize too late
I’ve taken one.
A single visual memory of the magic created in an intimate space
The whisper of flamenco lingering with me

And a feeling
That this life is amazing, and intense
Meant to be lived with full passion, a full heart
Chasing your dreams
Having a passion even if you do not profit from it at all
Using your passion to connect with others to inspire them
And I leave inspired

Something burning in me that I have not yet channeled
A blog that has not yet been dreamt of
An intensity of a singular travel experience that makes me send every friend who goes to Seville to this spot

Then taking years to even attempt to capture the experience of that night in words
None of stacking up to the experience of sitting in that audience
making eye contact with the dancer behind the performance
and letting my soul be stirred

It only works if you let it.







Seeing Flamenco in Seville

Admittedly, I had not done much to prepare for my trip to Seville (and the friend I was traveling with hadn’t either). We tried to make up for the lack of advance planning by posting on Facebook and pinging friends we knew had been. From the airport!

As we fielded suggestions, I was surprised at the recommendation to see a flamenco show, specifically at La Carboneria. It was honestly not on my radar at all. But I’m so glad we went.

It is free to see flamenco at La Carboneria, with shows at 9:30 and 10:30pm (and sometimes also 11:30pm). There is a bar on one side, a small square slab for flamenco dancing on the other, and long tables and benches in between. La Carboneria has a full bar, which includes the option of purchasing sangria by the liter. There are also some pretty basic food options, which we did not sample since we had eaten beforehand.

La Carboneria Travel Story -Experiencing Flamenco in Seville, Spain 20150917_215820 (2)

Many locals call this the best flamenco in Seville, and surprisingly, the audience was a mix of both locals and visitors. The venue certainly does not cater to tourists, and felt like a very local experience you wouldn’t find anywhere else.

TIP! It is also a very intimate space, so if you get there enough in advance, you can snag a spot on a bench right next to the dancer.

TIP! If you stay for multiple shows, a lot of people leave after seeing one performance and you can snag a better spot then.

For the performance itself, there is a guitar player and a single dancer expresses her art on a fairly small square slab placed on the floor, that looks as if it is made from some sort of slate or rock. The steps are incredibly intricate, but it is the emotion and intensity – the duende – behind both the dancing and guitar playing that defines flamenco.

La Carboneria Travel Story -Experiencing Flamenco in Seville, Spain 20150917_215332 (2)

It was so mesmerizing we knew immediately after the first performance that we would stay for a second show.

I was obviously a ‘blogger in the making’ at the time, because I struck up a conversation with the dancer there that night in between shows. Apparently it is not the same person every night, but over the course of the week, two or three excellent dancers who do flamenco dancing as their passion. And it shows.

TripAdvisor

While I fell in love with La Carboneria , many tourists (including some who have also been to this spot) prefer the larger, choreographed show you can pay for at other venues. With a bigger show, there are more performers, brighter colored outfits, and a stage where you can more easily see the complex footwork of flamenco.

If that’s you, definitely plan to catch a different flamenco show that matches your style, it’s such an incredible art form to experience!

TIP! There are a range of flamenco shows around Seville. Some are free, others are paid shows, and it depends from one to the next if food and/or drinks are included with the ticket price.

The dinner and flamenco show at Tablao Flamenco El Arenal comes highly recommended, or you can find other options to catch a flamenco show in Seville HERE.

Carboneria for: casual setting + flamenco dancing

As for me, I’ll take the raw emotion – the duende – of flamenco at La Carboneria any night of the week. Twice.

Have you ever experienced a flamenco performance? Or another artistic performance that moved you? What made it memorable?

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Travel Story -Experiencing Flamenco in Seville, Spain

Books to Read on Vacation: Summer Reading List 2019

Books to Read on Vacation: Summer Reading List 2019

Now that summer is here, one of the essential questions I am always thinking about is . . . what books to read on vacation!

Sure, I have a bunch of items that I take with me on pretty much every trip, and they are mostly clothing and accessories. But no airline flight or beach relaxation for me is complete without a good book to keep me company.

Or better yet, a fully loaded e-reader to have a compact way of taking as many summer reading books as I want!

READ MORE: 16 Packing Essentials for Every Kind of Trip

When I travel, I always like to read at least one book that is set in my destination. And since vacation is a time to relax, I also like reading some lighter reads – from romance to thrillers to laugh-out-loud memoirs. Maybe even take the distance from home and a clear mind to devour something interesting that is non-fiction.

Reading my Kindle at the Andaz Scottsdale Arizona Books to Read on Vacation - Summer Reading List 2019
Reading my Kindle at the Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows in Arizona

The list below has a little bit of something for everyone, and is organized into categories, so you can jump ahead to whatever sections speak to you!

Here are my top picks for summer reading this year:

Books to Read on Vacation: Romance

Red, White & Royal Blue

by Casey McQuiston

This one sounds absolutely adorable. The son of the US president has a confrontation with the Prince of Wales, and then the fake friendship they portray (for damage control in the media) turns into love. If you like politics, or royals, or just enjoy reading about two people falling for each other despite difficult circumstances, this is the book to bring with you to the beach.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

The Bride Test

by Helen Hoang

I had so much fun last summer reading the first book in this series, The Kiss Quotient, that I’m excited to have a follow-up novel to read so quickly. The main character in this book was a side character in the previous book, although the story line seems to be similar with unrequited love and family meddling woven together into a single story.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

The Overdue Life of Amy Byler

by Kelly Harms

The plot is simple enough – a single mom escapes to the big city (without her kids) for the summer and finds a love interest that turns her world upside down and makes her reconsider her life choices. Even though it’s a pretty basic premise, good beach reads are always in order for summer – and this is one of my picks because of how hilarious the writing is supposed to be!

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Books to Read on Vacation: Thriller

Her Daughter’s Mother

by Daniela Petrova

I am drawn to this book partly because its premise is interesting – what happens when an infertile woman accidentally meets (and intentionally befriends!) the woman who is her anonymous egg donor to have a baby. Also, I am admittedly drawn to read something with a title character named Lana – just like me! While the initial details of the book make it sound like a human interest story, the thriller aspect comes into play when the egg donor goes missing and Lana might have been the last person to see her before the mysterious disappearance.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

My Lovely Wife

by Samantha Downing

A typical suburban couple with kids gets bored and then somehow decides the secret to keeping their marriage exciting is getting away with murder. Literally. I admittedly know very little about the book since I don’t want to ruin the suspense and surprise of reading it. But it sounds like a fun page-turner not unlike the movie Mr. and Mrs. Smith that will definitely entertain.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

The River

by Peter Heller

Set in the great outdoors of northern Canada, the peace of the natural surroundings are disturbed when two college friends overhear an argument between a man and a woman and then later see . . . only the man, paddling alone on the river. Again, I’ve prevented myself from reading anything that might spoil the story for me, but it sounds like this one gets pretty real, since descriptions talk about desperate wilderness survival. Don’t read this one on a camping trip!

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

The Silent Patient

by Alex Michaelides

When comparisons are made to Agatha Christie, one of my favorite mystery authors, I know this book is for me. A high-powered, seemingly successful marriage ends when the main character shoots and kills her husband one night the moment she sees him. And then goes completely silent. The book details the criminal psychologist who works with this silent patient to try and unravel the mystery of why.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.


TripAdvisor

Books to Read on Vacation: Historical Fiction

Death is Hard Work

by Khaled Khalifa

Although Syria is not featured prominently in the news most days, rebel activity and humanitarian issues continue. So picture the scene set by this Syrian author, imagining a man whose final wish is to be buried in the tumultuous Aleppo region in the family plot. Once the surviving children decide to honor their father’s last request, the story unfolds. I don’t know that I’ve read any books set in Syria, and am looking forward to learning a bit about it through this fictional story.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Inland

by Téa Obreht

This book won’t even come out until August 2019, but after devouring the author’s previous novel The Tiger’s Wife, I couldn’t leave this pick off my summer reading list, as I hope to read it while it’s still summer. Obrecht’s novels are part-historical, part-magical in her gorgeous storytelling style, with details unfolding in a way that completely captivates me. I’m also eager to read a historical novel set in Arizona Territory in the late 1800s after my recent Scottsdale trip.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

The Old Drift

by Namwali Serpell

I am drawn to what sounds like a James Michener style fictional tale spanning three families and several generations in Zambia, and based on a historical autobiography of Percy M. Clark called The Autobiography of An Old Drifter. It’s quite an ambitious scope for a debut novel, and I can’t wait to be transported to another place and time following along.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Vintage 1954

by Antoine Laurain

Like Inland above, this novel is part historical fiction and part fantasy. Drinking a bottle of Beaujolais wine from 1954 transports a bunch of modern day apartment dwellers to Paris of the 1950s, where they soak up the culture of that period while trying to find a way back to 2017. While technically historical, this is exactly the kind of wine-fueled exploration and light reading that is ideal for summer getaways.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

In case you missed them, check out my previous Travel Savvy Gal (TSG) Summer Reading Lists for *even more* summer reading inspiration:

TSG Summer Reading List 2017

TSG Summer Reading List 2018

Books to Read on Vacation: (More) Fiction

Daisy Jones & The Six

by Taylor Jenkins Reid

This sounds to me like the book version of a cross between the cult classic movie This is Spinal Tap and Almost Famous. Set in the late 1960s and early 1970s, the book is about a journalist seeing the inside workings of a hugely successful band of the era, and I love this idea for what a different type of novel this is. Reid is also the author of the popular The Seven Husbands of Evelyn Hugo, so if you liked that, this summer reading book may be for you!

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Home Remedies

by Xuan Juliana Wang

This debut short story collection explores issues of Chinese youth, in China and America, touching on other serious and cultural themes as well. I always find summertime to be great for short stories, because you can breeze through an entire single narrative in one afternoon.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Queenie

by Candice Carty-Williams

If British humor – or should I say humour – is your thing, this summer read might be up your alley. Centered around a Jamaican British woman who breaks up with her long-time white boyfriend, there are more complex issues of race at play as you follow her string of bad decisions in the wake of the breakup. It sounds like somewhere between total fluff and a serious read.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

The Editor

by Steven Rowley

This one is vaguely historical fiction, but only because Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis features prominently, and is mostly a regular tale with a famous character inserted. Other than Mrs. Onassis serving as one of the two main characters, this book really sounds like it is about the relationship between her as “The Editor” at publishing house and a budding author who is struggling to finish a manuscript about his dysfunctional family. Of course boundaries are blurred, and the editor and writer relationship becomes the story. I want to read this both for the historical aspect and the focus on books – which I obviously love!

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

TripAdvisor

Books to Read on Vacation: Memoir

From Scratch: A Memoir of Love, Sicily, and Finding Home

by Tembi Locke

I’ve been back living in the United States almost as long as I lived in Milan, but I am still feeling like a former expat adjusting and continue to miss Italy. So of course I was drawn to this memoir by the mention of Sicily in the title alone, not to mention the story beginning when the author experiences love at first sight encountering a professional chef on a street in Florence. Of course, nothing is ever simple when an Italian family is involved, and I can’t wait to follow along for this story.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Inheritance: A Memoir of Genealogy, Paternity, and Love

by Dani Shapiro

I am not one to do any of the genetic tests out there, but plenty of others are. Even just in my circle of friends, I have heard stories of surprise relatives or unexpected paternity. I know just enough to know that this is a not uncommon phenomenon and there are even support groups on the internet for people who are struggling with these unearthed family secrets. What I didn’t realize is that there is a also a book detailing one person’s surprise discovery about her father and how she reconciles it with the person she thought she was.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Books to Read on Vacation: Non-Fiction

Invisible Women: Data Bias in a World Designed for Men

by Caroline Criado Pérez

I am fascinated by the premise of this one, talking about the inherent design bias of fields as vastly different as medicine and the automotive industry. I’m interested in reading it because it doesn’t sound like just a litany of complaints by women, but instead is a reasoned, intellectual look at the assumptions we take for granted in the everyday world.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Mighty Be Our Powers: How Sisterhood, Prayer, and Sex Changed a Nation at War

by Leymah Gbowee and Carol Mithers

Although this account was published in 2011, I only just heard of this book of how women in Liberia of different religious backgrounds banded together to lead a war-torn nation to peace. I love a feel-good story as part of my summer reading, and it’s even better when it’s true.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

Range: Why Generalists Triumph in a Specialized World

by David Epstein

As a blogger, I keep hearing how important it is to have a focused niche where you are *the expert.* Which is all well and good for many people out there, but I really feel equally enamored about so many aspects of travel – adventure, culture, food, wine, expat life – and so I write about them all! I am hoping this book gives me a bit of validation, and am curious to see the flip side of Malcolm Gladwell’s argument in Outliers that 10,000 of hours of focused practice will lead you to mastery and success.

Check book and e-book availability HERE.

In case you missed them, check out my previous Travel Savvy Gal (TSG) Summer Reading Lists for *even more* summer reading inspiration:

TSG Summer Reading List 2017

TSG Summer Reading List 2018

Phew, that was a lot!

Obviously when I started looking into books to read on vacation this summer, I found quite a lot of amazing options to dive into. I can’t wait for summer travel – and summer reading – and hope you’ve found some great reading inspiration for the coming months as well.

Happy travels! And happy reading!

Lana

Any books on this list that you’re already reading and loving? What other books to read on vacation would you recommend for my summer reading? Let me know your summer reading recommendations below!

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Books to Read on Vacation - Summer Reading List for TravelSavvyGal website    Books to Read on Vacation - Summer 2019 Reading List for TravelSavvyGal website

 

Tips for Taking a Road Trip in Europe

Tips for Taking a Road Trip in Europe

I love road trips, both to watch the landscape change along the way and to have access to off-the-beaten-path locations, including following a tempting sign blindly and seeing where it takes you.

READ MORE: 9 Reasons Why a Road Trip is the Best Way to See Oman

Past experiences on a road trip in Europe have taken me unexpectedly to giant castle complexes and fantastic wineries, and it’s those types of surprises that make it such a satisfying way to travel.

Winery at the end of a gravel road in France (found from following a road sign randomly)
Winery at the end of a gravel road in France (found from following a road sign randomly)
First random wine-tasting stop
First random wine-tasting stop

If you’re lucky, you either have a car in Europe already or are visiting someone who does.

For everyone else, renting a car in Europe and having a smooth road-trip will involve some extra planning.  But it is worth it for the flexibility that comes with having a vehicle, and trunk space for picking up souvenirs along the way.

Driving in a new place – especially in a foreign country where you may not speak the language – comes with its own set of challenges.  Here are some things to keep in mind for a successful road trip in Europe….

Before You Go on a Road Trip in Europe

  • Do you have the right documents to drive? In some places your home country license is sufficient. Sometimes you’ll need your regular driver’s license & a passport or identity card. And while it’s only required in some locations, it’s a good idea to invest in an International Driver’s License (IDL) before your trip. In the US, you can get an IDL through AAA up to six months in advance, or through the automobile association in your home country. If you’re planning on renting cars internationally quite often, there is also a 5-year IDL option (this is what I currently have).
My International Driver's License (IDL)
My International Driver’s License (IDL)
  • Are there automatic cars available? Cars with a manual transmission are much more widely available and typically cheaper to rent, so if you drive a manual, you are all set.    Otherwise, be sure that there is an automatic that you can guarantee for your the dates of your Europe road trip.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP!  Also do your usual due diligence when renting a car: comparing costs between companies and car type, looking at extra driver and insurance fees, and experimenting with different pickup and drop-off locations to keep costs low.

  • Do you have a place to park the car at your destination? Free parking at hotels is more widely available in some European countries than others, and of course the closer you stay to a city center, the less likely you will have parking at your accommodation.  Be sure you will have a private lot or public parking garage where you know you’ll be able to leave the vehicle.  A road trip in Europe is much more enjoyable when you are not spending half your time circling your destination looking for a parking spot.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP!  Even if your hotel/AirBNB has parking available, sometimes you must reserve a spot in advance.  Be sure to reserve parking ahead of time, if necessary.

  • Have you checked the driving times between the different stops on your road trip in Europe? No, really.  This sounds obvious, but especially in Europe things may be close in kilometers/miles, but take several hours more driving time than you’d expect.  Not all destinations are connected by highways and there are a lot of mountain ranges to contend with.  I learned this lesson the hard way on a 2007 trip to Croatia and Slovenia, where my friend and I had to forgo an already-paid night in a hostel and take an overnight bus to not lose a day of vacation with the long driving time to our next stop.  I usually plug two destinations into Google maps and see the time to arrive by car to plan out a Europe road trip.  Please, please, please check driving times in advance!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP!  Depending on where you are traveling in Europe, in some cases your best bet is to road trip for part of the time, and take high-speed trains for part.  In many places – especially in Western Europe – high-speed trains can be significantly faster than driving

  • How do you plan to navigate? Driving in Europe can be confusing!  Signs here do not look like signs you may be familiar with.  Sometimes at the split in a road here in Italy, there will be 10 signs on the left with the name of different destinations, and another 10 on the right.  But if you don’t know which towns are the way you’re headed, the signs don’t help at all.  I definitely recommend some type of navigation system for European driving – many rental companies offer the option of GPS at an additional cost, or if you are planning to get a data plan for your smart phone, you can navigate that way.  Just be sure to have a plan in advance.
  • How crazy are the drivers where you’re going? Driving in Europe may involve many more vehicle types than you usually see on the road.  In Milan and around Italy, I regularly have to maneuver between cars, trucks, buses, trams, bicycles, motorbikes and even tractors sometimes.  And the crazier the drivers, the harder this becomes.  I feel comfortable driving in Italy (which many expats here do not), although I wouldn’t drive in the city of Naples, notorious for its bad traffic that I’ve also witnessed as a pedestrian.  Do a bit of research on where you’re going and what the driving is like there so you can be a prepared driver.

During Your Road Trip in Europe

  • What are the default speed limits in the countries you’ll be visiting? European countries each have their own set of default speed limits for different types of roads (residential/state road/highway).  There is usually a single sign when you cross a border listing these numbers, and sometimes it won’t be displayed again.  Since the speeds are defaults, they’re often not even posted periodically along the highway.  Avoid speeding tickets by being aware – and following – the limits.
  • What do the different color signs mean? You would think that with much of Europe operating under open borders (the Schengen area), that the road systems would be aligned by now.  But they’re not.  In Italy, highways are indicated by green signs and more local roads are signed in blue.  But as soon as you drive across the border into France, the colors swap – blue for French highways, green for local roads.  Know what to look for wherever you’re driving.
  • What kind of toll systems are there where you’re going? Some countries have periodic highway tolls, others have you pick up a ticket that you pay once when you exit the highway system, and others use a single paid window decal called a vignette.  For the highway tolls, have enough cash in the local currency to cover these as your credit card from home may not work if it doesn’t have both a chip and a PIN.  Sometimes only one type of card works in each country, so try a few before giving up and paying cash.
A 2016 vignette for Switzerland
A 2016 vignette for Switzerland

And a vignette is  a sticker that you stick on the windshield of your car and covers all of the tolls for the country.  Depending on where you rent, the rental car may already have a vignette, otherwise you must purchase one when you enter the country.  I most often encounter the vignette for Switzerland, which is 40 Euros or 40 Swiss Francs (CHF) for a calendar year.  Austria also has a vignette, which is good for 10 days, or you can get one for several months if you’re planning to stay longer.

  • What European road signs should I know? Some basic road signs that are present in Europe may be different from anything you’ve seen before at home.  If you have a guidebook, there may be some pictures and explanations in a reference section.  The one sign that I had to look up when I first starting driving often in Europe is a diamond-shaped sign with a yellow diamond surrounded by a white border.  Normally in Europe at an unregulated intersection, the car to the right has priority.  If you are travelling on a large enough road that you have the right-of-way, you’ll know this by seeing the yellow diamond sign, and you no longer have to yield to cars to your right on side streets.

READ MORE: What You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

  • Do you know your country abbreviations? When you are driving close to the border with other countries, the list of upcoming cities with their distance away may have a white circle with 1- or 2-letter country abbreviations if the destination is in another country, which are helpful to know as you navigate.  Some of these are obvious: for example, A is Austria and B is Belgium, but what about CH?  Some European abbreviations are based on the country’s name in the local language, so study up.  Like CH (Confoederatio Helvetica) for Switzerland and D (Deutschland) for Germany.  Check out the full listing of country abbreviations here.

Liechtenstein highway sign DSC_0222

  • Which side of the car has the gas/petrol tank & what type should you get? Some cars have a little arrow next to gas gauge, but it’s always a good idea to check ahead of time where the petrol tank is located.  Also know whether the car takes diesel or regular gasoline so you can fill up with the correct product.
  • Are you ready for European traffic jams? If you’re a seasoned driver, you’ve probably suffered through a traffic jam or two (or a hundred).  However, traffic backups can have a very different character in Europe.  Sometimes there is a road that it is a single lane in each direction with no passing allowed, so if there is a slow vehicle up ahead, you can just be moving slowly for an extended time.
A traffic jam in Switzerland. Don't worry, the car was in park when I snapped this picture.
A traffic jam in Switzerland. Don’t worry, the car was in park when I snapped this picture.

But when there is an accident in my experience, traffic comes to a complete standstill, often for 1 hour or more.  As in: the car is in park with the parking brake engaged, and if the weather is nice many people will be outside of their cars smoking or taking a stroll.  (Inevitably these kind of traffic jams happen when there is no detour route, but if there is an option to drive around the backup, take it!  Another argument in favor of having GPS available.)  I’ve been stuck in traffic jams where all movement stops completely in Italy a few times, but also in Switzerland and Germany.  Don’t be alarmed if this happens, but do be prepared to wait it out.  And if you’re outside of your car during the standstill, don’t worry — everyone magically knows when the traffic will start moving again, no matter how far back you are.

  • Did you leave extra time for each of your driving sections? Even with the best preparation – and traffic aside – you still may get lost or take a wrong turn at some point.  And missing one turn-off sometimes means going 20 km out of your way to the first point you can circle back, and another 20 km to get back to your starting point before continuing on the correct route (true story, this happened once driving in France).  Or hopefully you’ll see something in the distance that catches your eye or see a sign for a local attraction, and will be able to take the time to veer off course and follow your nose to an adventure.

 

Wow, that’s a lot of things to think about! 

Taking a Europe road trip that covers multiple countries is especially exciting for me since there are open borders in so many places.  In fact, other than in Switzerland where they check your vignette when you enter and exit, and for some of the micro-nations not part of the Schengen area, you may not even realize you’re crossing an international border.

Sometimes I come home from a road trip with *this much* wine
Sometimes I come home from a Europe road trip with *this much* wine

Overall, a road trip in Europe is hugely scenic and rewarding, although as you’ve read there are quite a few things you can do to prepare so you have a smooth driving experience and focus on enjoying the ride.

Have you ever taken a road trip in Europe? What was your favorite part of the experience? And what else did you wish you knew or had researched beforehand?

Want to have these tips accessible for your road trip in Europe? ‘Pin it’ to save for later.

Switzerland view

What You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

What You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

As a child, I had heard the legend of driving on the Autobahn, the German highway with no speed limit. It was one of those peculiarities of countries beyond the scope of my wildest dreams, where strange things happened and the rules weren’t quite the same as at home.

Of course, my vivid imagination painted a clear picture of this large oval raceway traversing the country, with six lanes in each direction and cars zooming past at racetrack speeds. Just like car races on TV!

As I grew into adulthood, honestly, my vision of what driving on the Autobahn must be like never actually changed much. I hadn’t visited Germany, and without planning a trip there, I never looked into what life was like in all that much detail. The Germany of my childhood years was caught up in images of Berlin, on the day the Wall fell. No highway image in sight.

And moving to Milan a little over three years ago, I didn’t think all that much about what driving in Germany would be like. At least, until my first summer road trip.

My First Experience Driving in Germany

As the car approached the German border from Luxembourg, to the west, headed toward Frankfurt, I wondered, What would it be like to finally be driving on the Autobahn? There are open borders across the Schengen zone in much of Europe, so it’s not immediately clear which moment I entered Germany, but the first thing I see on the highway is . . . a speed limit sign?!?

Confused? I certainly was. The Autobahn was supposed to be the highway with no rules, where you can drive as fast as you want and basically do what you like. Sums up pretty much all your childhood dreams about adulthood, right? (It certainly was how I always pictured getting older.)

Of course, the realities of driving in Germany on the Autobahn are just a bit different from the carefree dream, much like my illusions about what it’s like to be an adult. And the Germans sure have specific ways of doing things, even on the highway without a speed limit.

So what is it really like driving on the Autobahn??

Things You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

The Autobahn isn’t one special highway with no speed limit, it’s just the German word for highway. Any highway in Germany is an autobahn.

Sign indicating unlimited speed for driving on the autobahn in Germany
Image: Wikimedia Commons

Speed is not always unlimited, only on certain stretches marked by the appropriate sign (the one above!). This was really my initial shock of first driving on the autobahn. Yes, there are some pretty long sections depending on the highway that will have no limit, but there are also plenty of spots that will have a speed limit for quite a while. Of course, your best bet is to have driving stretches far away from the city to really get the full autobahn driving experience.

A lot of highways in Germany are what I would consider pretty regular roads through the countryside, with just two lanes in each direction. The first word that came to mind when driving on a German autobahn was dinky. The ‘highway’ wasn’t particularly impressive and certainly did not seem set up for driving at unlimited speeds, especially the ones that have only two lanes in each direction and no guardrail. Don’t get me wrong, highways in Germany are well-paved and a very smooth ride even at top speeds, but there is nothing futuristic or particularly modern-looking about it.

Autobahn driving Germany view of the countryside 20150709_120938 (2)

Even when the speed limit is unlimited for extended stretches, it still slows to 120 kilometers per hour (75miles/hour) at major interchanges along the way. Yes, now that I think about it, it makes complete sense that you would need to be going at a reasonable pace if you wanted any chance of making the exit to another highway without veering off the exit ramp. But this means that even if you have several straight hours driving on an autobahn, every time you cross another major road, you’ll be slowing down considerably. So it’s more of an ebb and flow of speeding along and ‘normal’ highway driving than a continuous racetrack atmosphere.

When you’re driving 250 km/h and have to suddenly slow to 120 km/h it feels like . . . coming to a complete stop. Again, one of those things that makes sense. Of course going from 120 or 130 km/h to 0 km/hr is not so different from the deceleration from 250 to 120. But I don’t think I ever expected shifting my speed *down to* 80 miles per hour would feel like standing still. But it does. And it’s such an interesting sensation.

If you’re speeding through the left lane and a car decides to jump out and pass the car ahead, you must slow down (sometimes very rapidly!) so you don’t have an accident. At least with upcoming interchanges, you get signs and a bit of a warning that you are about to undergo a major slowdown. You can prepare mentally, and perhaps start slowing down a bit early so the shift is not as jarring. When a car doesn’t look first – or doesn’t care – that you are hurtling through the left lane, and it just wants to pass the slightly slower car or truck ahead, it will jump out suddenly. And to avoid a collision, that leaves you scrambling to slow down as quickly as possible.

And even if an accident is not your fault, you can be held liable for at least some of the cost if you are going faster than typical autobahn defaults speeds of 120-130 km/h. Believe me, I had this little tidbit drilled into my head long before I ever got behind the wheel to drive on an unlimited speed section of an autobahn. One of the (fairly logical) consequences of the privilege of driving as fast as you’d like, is that it also comes with the responsibility of being a safe driver. So for an accident that might have been able to avoided had you been going normal highway speed, you may be culpable financially for the damages.

The experience driving in Germany at top speeds is exhilarating! For me, maxing out the car’s engine when I see that unlimited speed sign involves a complete shift in driving. I sit up in my seat for maximum visibility of the road, and start to feel the adrenaline rush that comes with the anticipation and watching the speedometer climb. I lean imperceptibly forward and feel a heightened sense of awareness as I try to watch cars in the lane to my right. I spend the entire time on edge so I can see when someone jumps in front of me the exact moment it happens, to give my reflexes that extra fraction of a second to react. I feel the energy and exhilaration of whizzing by other cars, hurtling toward my destination at twice the normal speed. And I blare the radio to something with a fast beat, mirroring the car’s cadence. Honestly, it feels like a scene out of a movie, and all my sense are heightened as the car propels itself at rocket speeds along the highway.

Being on a German autobahn doesn’t make you immune to traffic. Nothing is more depressing than driving on the autobahn at top speeds, and then having to slow down or stop for traffic. Yes folks, you read that right, sometimes you are stopped on the autobahn. I’ve been caught before in autobahn traffic jam in which I was at a complete stop for nearly an hour! The joy of driving on a highway with no speed limit gets a bit trampled on when you’re too stuck in traffic to be able to drive at all. Unfortunately this is the nature of traffic jams in Europe, and something to be prepared for on the autobahn. Traffic can also be less dramatic, and just involve slow sections with a high volume of cars on the road, in which case there is no room to go fast and you’re relegated to the flow of the road.

READ MORE: Tips for Taking a Road Trip in Europe

If it gets too hot in summer, speed is likely going to be limited. I know that summer is prime vacation time to visit Europe, so if that is when you’re planning your German holiday, that is also when you’re probably planning to try out autobahn driving for the first time. Some heatwaves over the past few summers had an impact I hadn’t previously considered – that extreme heat coupled with cars going at top speeds can cause some serious damage to the roadway. Sections of the autobahn buckled and cracked, and speed limits were reduced accordingly in both 2015 and 2016. If you’re planning a trip in summer, be aware that speed limits might be imposed in sections that normally have an unlimited speed, if the temperatures climb too high.

Driving on the autobahn Driving in Germany 20150709_151723

The view of the landscape is incredible. For a lot of German autobahn driving, you’re far outside any main cities and taking in views of the lush countryside, especially in spring and summer when everything is in bloom. At top speeds, it’s passing quite fast, but the nice part about the sections with a speed limit is that you actually get to see and appreciate Germany’s beauty. A lot more scenic than many other drives I’ve done.

And in the end, going so fast has a real impact on your petrol usage and gas mileage (kilometrage?), so most drivers don’t try to push their cars’ absolute limits when it comes to speed. Yes, if you are driving fast on the open road of a German autobahn, you probably won’t be the only one zooming along, but from what I’ve seen, most Germans seem to stick to a speed of around 150-160 km/h (90-100 mph) on the highway’s unlimited stretches. Faster than you’re typically allowed to go, but definitely a practical not-super-fast speed where you retain a lot of control and don’t have to make huge speed adjustments every time an interchange approaches.

In the end, I found that autobahn driving wasn’t all that different from any other highway driving I’ve done anywhere in the world.

With just a few differences of course when the speed becomes unlimited, especially if you choose on the open stretches to go as fast as your car will take you. And certainly, if driving at breakneck speeds puts abject panic in your heart, you could drive on the autobahn only a bit faster than the way you drive on highways at home. And not be too out of place.

What’s the fastest you’ve ever gone in a car? Have you driven on the German Autobahn before? Any other things that surprised you about driving in Germany? Or tips you’d give to someone driving on the Autobahn for the first time? Share away in the Comments below.

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What You Need to Know Top Tips About Driving on the Autobahn in Germany landscape

9 Top Belgium Travel Tips: What to Know Before You Go!

9 Top Belgium Travel Tips: What to Know Before You Go!

My recent visit was not my first trip to Belgium, but I felt like there was so much that I had forgotten from previous visits. Belgium is a great country to visit, being both bicycle- and pedestrian-friendly, and boasting some pretty wonderful cuisine and the drinks to wash it down.

In between strolling quaint cobblestone streets in medieval city centers, I couldn’t help but jot down some notes of those key things you’ll want to know before you go – after making countless mistakes myself of course!

So (in alphabetical order), here are my top Belgium Travel Tips, with things you should know before you go:

Beer

Beer Bruges Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go!20150501_182506

Beer in Belgium is stronger than you think. No, really! While the average Alcohol-By-Volume or ABV of beer is 4.5%, most Belgian beers are over that amount, many at double the alcohol content or more. On this list of top Belgian beers, every beer listed is over 4.5% and half of them clock in at 8% or higher. Keep track of how strong the beer is that you ordered so you don’t drink too much, too quickly (unless you want to, of course) – this isn’t like your beer drinking back home.

Beer Leuven Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! IMG_20180423_140056

Bicycles

Bicycles Ghent Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! DSC_0419

Much of central and northern Europe is filled with bicycles, and this is true of Belgium as well. Even if you live in a bike-friendly city, bike riding in Belgium is likely on a whole other scale. Watch out, as some cyclists pedal so fast that you may not hear them coming. And remember to look both ways everywhere as I almost got run over on my recent visit by a bicycle going the wrong way on a one-way street. Bike lanes sometimes look similar to sidewalks, so you might find yourself unwittingly strolling in a bike lane if you’re not paying attention as you walk – this is definitely a country to remain aware of your surroundings!

Bicycles Antwerp Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! DSC_0103

City Cards

If there’s a city in Belgium, there’s likely to be a combination city card you can purchase that will gain you access to multiple attractions, like churches and museums, and at a discount compared to paying for each. While I expected the Antwerp Card and Bruges Card and Brussels Card and Ghent Card, I was surprised to learn that even many small towns have a pass of their own.

Do take the time to research which sights are covered, how long the pass lasts, and the cost, to decide if it makes sense for you. For me on my recent trip to Belgium, the small-town Leuven Card was worth purchasing but in Ghent I wasn’t planning to go to enough of the museums listed, so it made more sense for me to buy my entries one at a time there.

TIP! Buy the card in advance if it includes any public transportation you’re planning to take, otherwise it’s usually available for purchase at any of the included tourist sites without an extra stop.

Closure Days

Monday Closure Day Leuven Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! DSC_0510

If you’ve done a bit of travel around Europe already, you may be familiar with many attractions and museums being closed on a Monday. Something I also noticed in Belgium this time around is that quite a lot of things are *also* closed on Wednesday. I spent my latest Wednesday in Belgium in Ghent, and lots of museums there were completely closed, from the City Museum to the Design Museum. Even the restaurant where I tried to eat lunch (and is usually open for lunch!) had no lunch service on a Wednesday.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium

TIP! Plan around closures for a multi-day visit

TIP! A walking tour is always a great way to see a city on a day many attractions will be closed.

Languages

Language Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! 20150503_115139

Belgium is a country made up of many language regions, so what language will be primarily spoken and visible on street and highway signs will depend on where you are exactly. The north of Belgium is primarily Flemish speaking (also known as Flemish Dutch), similar to what is spoken in the nearby Netherlands. The southern half is typically French speaking, and there are a few German-speaking regions in the far eastern section of the country.

While you don’t need to learn all those language to visit, it is always helpful to practice some key words and phrases in the language that will be where you plan to travel. Even some basic vocabulary to aid with street signs, or learning the words for ‘Entrance’ and ‘Exit’ can help your travel go more smoothly, especially if you will be driving in Belgium.

READ MORE: Top Tips for Taking a Road Trip in Europe

And the good news is, English is spoken (at least a little) nearly everywhere. Even in the smaller towns, most restaurants are likely to have an English menu. If you don’t see one displayed, just ask.

Luggage Lockers

Luggage Locker Leuven Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! IMG_20180423_171528

Depending on your exact itinerary and travel plans, you may end up wanting to do some sightseeing with your luggage in tow, either when you first arrive or are departing, or are in between cities. Fortunately, many train stations across Belgium – even in smaller towns – will have lockers at your disposal. And for my first destination after arriving at Brussels airport and heading to the small town of Leuven, I was able to check ahead of time online to confirm that lockers would be available.

TIP! Have Euro coins handy, as my luggage locker cost 5 Euros for the day and did not accept bills or cards.

TIP! I had issues getting my locker to work at first – and nearly gave up! – so would recommend trying a different section of the lockers if you have trouble at first and also reading the instructions listed (even if they’re in Flemish and you have to translate on your phone). In the end I had to hold the door shut for 3 seconds before it automatically locked and put the prompt up on the screen for me to insert payment and get my receipt.

Luggage Locker Leuven Belgium Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! IMG_20180423_171538

Restaurant Meals

Even separate from the typical Monday and Wednesday closures across Belgium (see ‘Closure Days’ section above), I encountered a lot of restaurants that were only open for dinner during the week and had no lunch service. As my previous Belgium travel was centered around weekends, this was definitely a surprise of my most recent visit. Be aware that you may be limited in your dining options, especially on day trips, if you don’t stay through dinnertime.

Transit Tickets

The transit system in Belgium is quite convenient, but is centered around making your purchase with a debit or credit card, and you may have trouble using the automated machines unless you have a card with a PIN. While PIN-based debit cards are standard for Europeans, if you don’t have a PIN on your credit card from elsewhere, try your debit card instead (assuming it has a PIN). Otherwise, build in extra time to find a staffed counter and wait in what will likely be a longer line to be able to pay in cash.

TIP! Any train trip that is to or from Brussels airport will be higher than usual because it includes a surcharge that is added to all trips that begin or end there. So keep this in mind to determine your most economical option when planning your itinerary.

Waffles

Waffles Belgium Brussels Style Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go!20150501_100836

Yes, Belgians may be known for their waffles – but these may be harder to find than you’d expect! Across my Belgium visits, I had the easiest time finding fresh waffles made-to-order in Brussels. During the week especially, fresh waffles were harder to come by. So be on the lookout if you’re looking to sample some during your trip.

TIP! When in doubt, if you haven’t found fresh waffles elsewhere, you can usually get some at a stand at the train station.

TIP! I am partial to the Liege style waffle which is a thick dough covered in sugar that gets pressed in a waffle iron. If you’re getting a waffle fresh in Belgium, be sure to try this one!

Waffles Belgium Liege Style Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go!IMG_20180424_171757Waffles Belgium Liege Style Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! DSC_0111

Belgium has a wealth of amazing sights and architecture to explore, plus there’s all that world-famous beer and chocolate and waffles wherever you go. There are wonderful towns and cities to visit and I’d definitely make another return trip to check out more.

Ghent Architecture Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go! DSC_0307

From the many cities and towns I’ve already been to in my travels, these tips are pretty universal, so will be helpful regardless of where in Belgium you plan your trip.

Happy travels!

Lana

Have you been to Belgium before? Is there any other advice you would give to someone who is planning a visit? Anything else you’d like to know before you book a Belgium trip? Share your best Belgium travel tips and ask away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Top 9 Belgium Travel Tips - Things to Know Before You Go!

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