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Milan to Lake Como Day Trip: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como, Italy

Milan to Lake Como Day Trip: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como, Italy

When I say the word “lake,” what do you imagine? A small, oval-shaped body of water where you could easily row to the other side in a boat? A modest-sized swimming hole for a quick dip as you hike in the woods?

Your imagination has probably conjured up something relatively tiny, but the lakes of northern Italy – including Lake Como – are anything but.

Instead of your typical circular or oval body of water, Lake Como, Italy is like an upside-down letter Y or wishbone shape, and extends north to south nearly 30 miles/50 kilometers!

This was one of the first of many things that made a deep impression on me when I visited, as one of my first Milan day trips.

Even if you can’t find Lake Como on a map of Italy, you’re likely to know a few things about it.

Like the fact that George Clooney lives there. Or that it is a posh weekend and summer destination for residents of Milan, since getting from Milan to Lake Como is so easy.

This means that in addition to being curious and making several trips on my own, Lake Como was also a popular destination for guests visiting me when I lived in Milan, and I’ve been there many times across several years. It’s one of the easiest and best day trips from Milan. And one day in Como is plenty of time to take in the highlights.

One of the easiest spots to land, and with plenty to see, is the town of Como, Italy at one of the southern tips of this wishbone-shaped lake. With great options for what to do in Lake Como for a day.

The lake itself is huge, which you’ll discover standing on its shores and staring out toward the horizon where the lake continues even past where you can see.

You could easily spend a week exploring its shores, but for most visitors, you’ll probably explore Lake Como in one day.’


TripAdvisor

Getting from Milan to Lake Como

There are a lot of transportation options for a Milan to Lake Como day trip.

I most often drove to get there, but that was only because I was already living in Milan with a car!

To experience Lake Como in a day, I’ve listed a few driving options, although for most visitors the easiest way to visit will be by train, which is also included below.

From Malpensa Airport (MXP) by Car

Most of my visitors when I lived in Milan, Italy were from the US.

Como is a convenient spot to visit straight from the main international airport, known as Malpensa or code MXP, since it is already partway from the city to Lake Como.

So to fight off jet lag and see something spectacular, one day in Lake Como is a great way to start a trip, especially for flights that land early in the morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! On your first day in a new location, spend a lot of time outside and walking, to help adjust to the new time zone.

However, taxi fares from Malpensa are set prices and quite expensive (around 100!) so unless you are already planning to rent a car at the airport or have a friend picking you up by car, I recommend taking the Malpensa Express train for a much more affordable price into the city.

Then you can either drive or take the train from the city another day for a Lake Como day trip.

From Milan by Car

Cars with Lake Como Views
Cars with Lake Como Views

If you’re planning to rent a car in the city to head somewhere else – like the overnight I did once to go hiking in Lugano, Switzerland – then driving to Lake Como for one day is a great idea.

It is a pretty straightforward path on the highway, and then there are plenty of parking garages when you enter town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Once you are getting close to the town of Como, follow the signs that say Como with a picture of a bulls-eye. The bulls-eye indicates that you are headed to the centro, or center of town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Signage is equally good for locating a parking garage. Look for signs with a blue square with a white letter P inside for parcheggio, or parking. Usually each lot will indicate how many free spaces are available.

Also check out these tips for taking a road trip in Europe for some other helpful information for your journey by car.

If you do not already have plans for a car rental, it is so easy to arrive by train that even owning a car, that is how I traveled to Como for a day during many trips.

Viator

Milan to Lake Como Day Trip by Train

Italy Train
Image: Pixabay

There are 3 main train stations in Milan – Cadorna, Centrale, and Garibaldi.

If you plan to do any day trips from Milan, I recommend staying close to one of them, and I find the neighborhoods by Cadorna and Centrale stations to be the nicest.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving on an international flight to Malpensa Airport, Cadorna and Centrale are also the main stations where you can arrive by the Malpensa Express train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Before boarding any train in Italy, be sure to VALIDATE YOUR TICKET before you board, otherwise you could be subject to a fine. Usually on the train platform will be a brightly colored box with a slot in the top for you to insert your ticket. You can find more Italy travel tips HERE.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, Milano Centrale, Milan’s Central Station, is the easiest itinerary. Usually there are several direct trains an hour that will get you to the Como San Giovanni train station at Lake Como in 35-45 minutes. You can check the schedule and prices on the TrenItalia website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni station will typically cost around €5 for the regional train and €12 for the Eurocity train.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Central Station?

Within a 10-minute walk is the exceptional Milano Dreams Hotel. Even closer is highly-rated 43 Station Hotel. For a pricier and very comfortable stay also very close by, I’ve enjoyed the Hilton Milan.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Central Station.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, if you’re staying on the other side of the city closer to the Milano Cadorna Station, it will likely be easier to get a direct train there (and just as fast as a longer transit to Centrale and then the shorter train ride from there).

Usually there is one direct train an hour that will get you to the Como Nord Lago train station right at Lake Como in around 1 hour, so check your train options in advance. You can check the schedule and prices on the Trenord website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Cadorna to Como Nord Lago station will typically cost around €5.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Cadorna Train Station?

Within a 7-minute walk are the outstanding Atellani Apartments. Slightly further is the La Cordata Accommodation. For a very centrally located and more upscale hotel, check out UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Cadorna Station.

Given the locations of the train stations in both Milan and Como, either train option above is a great, cheap, and quick way to spend the day in Lake Como.

Regardless of which train station you use for your day trip to Como, be sure to keep some key tips in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to book a direct train. In the “Duration” column, it will have a single number showing the time and no changes indicated.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The train station has plenty of machines for you to buy tickets, if you don’t want to commit to a specific train time in advance. There are several languages available, including English.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you purchase using a machine, not every machine will accept credit cards if yours does not have a pin. Have a debit card with a pin available as well for your train ticket purchase, if your credit card does not have a pin number.

Doing a Como Tour

If you’d rather avoid dealing with transportation logistics on your own, there are plenty of Como Day Trip tours you can arrange.

There are a few great Lake Como Day Trip options:

Day Trip to Lake Como and Bellagio, or

Lake Como and Bellagio Day Trip with Boat Cruise, or

Day Trip to Lake Como, Bellagio, and Varenna

For a very different view of the lake, check out this Helicopter Ride for an Aerial View of Lake Como.

There is also this Central Lake Como tour cruises to 3 towns including Bellagio and includes a visit to the gardens at Villa Carlotta.


TripAdvisor

What to Do in Lake Como for a Day

Here are the main Lake Como 1-day itinerary for your Milan to Lake Como day trip:

Lake Como

A beautiful Lake Como morning
A beautiful Lake Como morning

Whether you’re arriving by car or train, your drop-off point or parking spot will likely be quite close to the shore of Lake Como. And walking up to the edge of the lake is always the first thing I want to do when I get there!

There are beautiful views along the shore in both directions, and a lovely pathway for a stroll.

Boat Tour

Boat Trp Lake Como Italy DSCN0408

During warm weather months, from about April to October, there are leisure boats lined up along the dock close to the Como Nord (northern) train station in Como.

With a high number of tourists, boats leave quite frequently and very affordable at around 5 Euros per person.

When you arrive at the dock, just ask how soon the next boat is leaving. It is about a 30-minute trip up and back along the adjacent section of lake, and the better boats will point out sites of interest along the way, including spots where famous movies were filmed.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Doing a basic boat tour is different from taking the fast or slow ferry to other towns on the lake, so if you want to just do a boat tour, this is just along the shore, not at the official ticket counter (see ‘Off the Beaten Path‘ below for more details on ferries to other towns).

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Cathedral

Duomo Cathedral Lake Como Italy

The main Cathedral of Como, or Duomo, is located right in the center of town and is a stunning example of Gothic architecture.

It is free to enter and a must-visit spot while you’re visiting. Spend as little or as much time as you like.

Porta Torre and Old City Walls

Arriving at Porta Torre, the medieval town entrance dating back nearly 1,000 years, involves walking through winding cobblestone streets away from the lake front.

Not only will you get a glimpse of the oldest parts of Como along the way, you’ll also get a great sense of this town’s lengthy history and long-standing structures.

Oldest House in Como

Oldest House in Como Via Natta 1

Speaking of old structures, be sure to stroll by what is supposedly the oldest house in Como, located above a shop at Via Natta, 1. You’ll definitely know it when you see it.

Como Silk Museum

Did you know that an overwhelming percentage of Europe’s silk production comes from Lake Como?

Ever since a Duke around the year 1400 decided to start growing mulberry trees and importing silkworms from Asia, Como has been a hub of silk production, which continues today.

This museum, located a bit beyond the Porta Torre (see above), chronicles silk’s history in the area and the various stages of production.

Shopping

I’m not always a huge shopper, but there are lots of wonderful things to get in town. There are your typical clothing chains, but also cute kitchen stores, shops with local food products, and jewelry makers. And of course, plenty of Como silk!

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Off the Beaten Path on a Milan to Lake Como Day Trip

Como-Brunate Funicular

Brunate Funicular Lake Como Italy 20150610_165610 (2)

Lake Como is surrounded by hills and mountains, and while it’s definitely possible to hike up the steep incline on foot, most people opt for the funicular, which is like a steep tram.

There are some shops, sights, and restaurants up top, but most people make the trip for the lovely view of Lake Como.

There is a great viewing spot about a 20-minute relatively flat walk to the left when you exit at the Brunate station.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The funicular runs quite frequently, but it’s always a good idea to look at (or even take a picture) or the return schedule to time your return trip to Como.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The front of the lower section of the funicular is a giant window, and that’s where you’ll get the best views as you ascend and descend. Arrive early to be first in line to snag this spot!

Villa Olmo

Villa Olmo Lake Como Italy

There are many villas along Lake Como, one more beautiful than the next, and many with extensive landscaped gardens to behold.

The closest one to the town of Como is Villa Olmo, about a 20-minute walk from the center along the west side of the lakeshore (if you’re facing the lake, to the left). The outdoor areas are impressive with beautiful lake views, and the interior is a free museum open daily except Monday.

Ferries

Bellagio, on Lake Como
Bellagio, on Lake Como

There are many other towns along the lake, and it’s definitely doable to visit and explore one or more others during a single day, depending on how you want to spend your time.

The link above shows the schedule and fares for various destinations along the lake, or you can find it HERE. To purchase a ticket, arrive at the ticket booth on Lake Como around 20 minutes in advance of your departure.

The town of Bellagio is one of the most popular other towns for visiting, although be aware that it is approximately a 2-hour boat ride with the slow ferry and around 45-minutes one-way if you pay the surcharge for the fast ferry. And it will cost around 10-15 each direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you just want to get out on the water a bit and not necessarily see another town, the faster and more economical way is a tourist boat tour, see ‘Around Town‘ section above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If Bellagio is the main town you’d like to visit on Lake Como, it is faster and cheaper to take a train from Milan to the town of Varenna, and then take a ferry across from there, skipping the town of Como entirely.


TripAdvisor

Looking to stay overnight in Como?

Check out centrally located, affordable B&B La Rondine or B&B Volta. Or for a posh hotel stay with views of Lake Como, Hotel Quarcino.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels in Como.

Where to Eat with One Day in Lake Como

Ristorante La Cucina di Elsa

La Cucina di Elsa Lake Como Italy 20150610_132118 (2)

This family-run restaurant is close to the waterfront, but just far enough away that it is mostly locals who you’ll find as your dining companions. Apparently there is another branch just across the border in Lugano, Switzerland, but I’ve only been to the Como one.

‘Elsa’s Kitchen’ has typical Italian dishes with a lot of fresh seafood, with dishes that are a bit elevated from down-home cooking, so worth lingering over every perfect bite.

Locanda Barbarossa

Set inside a vast stone building, the ambiance is wonderful along with the food.

Pizza is the most popular, and comes in dozens of varieties including several white pizzas, although the northern Italian risotto and meat specialties are equally delicious if you’re not in the mood for pizza.

Either way, it’s a great spot for a lingering lunch.

Gelateria Lariana

Gelateria Lariana Lake Como Italy

No Italian outing would be complete without gelato.

This gelateria is along the waterfront, but somehow seems to be frequented mostly by locals – it was actually a tip from a local that led me here in the first place. 

There are a few spots to sit outside with your gelato, so grab your favorite flavors, and enjoy it along with the view.

READ MORE: Best Spots for Gelato in Italy

It won’t even take a single day here to begin to understand why Lake Como is an ideal location for a summer getaway, and how it has become the ‘it’ destination for so many.

I’ve visited lots of lakes across northern Italy, and with the dramatic cliffs and mountains right up to the water’s edge, Lake Como is still my favorite.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

Looking for other Day Trips from Milan? Check out some of my favorites!

Dramatic views from the elevated city of Bergamo

Enjoying adorable Cremona, home of the Stradivarius violin

And while it would be a long day (and I recommend more time in each) it’s also possible to do a Day Trip from Milan to Florence, Venice, and Verona.

Happy Travels! Lana TravelSavvyGal

Have you been to Como? Any recommended spots that didn’t make my list? And do you have any other questions about how to spend your time on Lake Como? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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How to Spend One Day in Lake Como, Italy - Milan to Lake Como Day Trip for TravelSavvyGal   How to Spend One Day or 24 hours in Lake Como, Italy - Milan to Lake Como Day Trip for TravelSavvyGal

Venice CHEAT SHEET

Venice CHEAT SHEET

You could spend weeks in Venice without exhausting your options for museums to explore, churches to visit, and places for a delicious meal. But since your time visiting will likely be much more limited, here’s the Travel Savvy Gal “cheat sheet” for the essentials:

Things to Do

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Rialto Bridge

It’s iconic. It is quite tall, so offers a great view of the Grand Canal. You’re decently likely to pass it anyway as you wander Venice, but in case not, seek it out at least once.

St. Mark’s Square

This is the piazza you see in many of the typical photographs of Venice. With several tourist attractions right on the square you’ll likely be here already. When you are, take some time in the square itself to appreciate its grandeur.

Doge’s Palace

Exploring here will give you a solid insight into Venetian history and life.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s worth reserving a ticket for the Doge’s Palace in advance, as you’ll have a much shorter queue to enter.

I of course recommend visiting for longer if you can, but if you only have one day in Venice, read more about how to spend One Day in Venice for tips about making the most of your limited time.

Churches of Note

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St. Mark’s Basilica

If you’re going to see one sight in Venice, this should be it. The decoration is a little over-the-top for my personal preference, but the church is just incredible.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Lines to enter the Basilica can be long, so reserve a time slot in advance on the “Reservations” section on the website linked above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to go to the outdoor terraces for a lovely view of St. Mark’s Square.

Basilica dei Frari

There are more sections to this basilica than meets the eye, so it was a wonderful place to explore and see a variety of artwork and carved altars in different mediums.

Off the Beaten Path

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Islands

As you know from my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice, it’s definitely worth it to set aside the time to explore some of Venice’s islands beyond the main sections. If you do take a day to island-hop, the best meal I’ve had outside of Venice’s main areas was on the island of Murano – see the Best Bites section below.

Jewish Museum & Ghetto Tour

While 2016 marked 500 years since the establishment of the Jewish Ghetto in Venice, Jewish life has existed in the city for even longer. The museum gives a good overview, and the tour of the ghetto is engaging and excellent.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Typical tour times may be altered for the Sabbath (from late Friday through Saturday) and on Jewish holidays, so verify availability in advance.

Clock Tower

The tower requires advance booking, which you can do not far in advance at the ticket office on the other side of St. Mark’s Square. It’s a different perspective on the area, and has some great views of St. Mark’s (the Square and the Basilica) from the upper levels.

biennale-20150725_130021

Biennale

There is a massive art exhibition in odd-numbered years, with pavilions by country that contain some fairly progressive art. Most are located in the Giardini area, although there are pavilions all around the city. Even-numbered years have been focusing on architecture.

Peggy Guggenheim Collection

The art collection here is truly outstanding, and is situated with some lovely sculpture gardens and terraces on the Grand Canal. Worth a visit, although not typical to Venice per se.

Best Bites (favorite restaurants)

corte-sconta-20160916_132134-2

Corte Sconta

A well-known fish restaurant, you can get a tasting menu of small plates to sample the variety of Venetian seafood, for a minimum of two people. It also has popular pasta and gnocchi specials daily that I’ve found to be quite delicious – be sure to ask your server about these as they’re not printed in the menu.

La Lanterna da Gas

Some of the portion sizes are quite sizeable, so order accordingly or ask your server for recommendations. While large, the polenta with baccalà (salt cod) appetizer was exceptional.

Osteria al Duomo

Located on the island of Murano, there are a variety of typical Italian pastas, meat dishes, and pizzas on offer. I had a seafood carbonara here that I still dream about.

vecia-cavana-20160915_140524

Vecia Cavana

An institution for Venetian cuisine with a lot of local customers, a meal here can be a good value or extravagant, depending on what you order. Although known for its fish options, the standout dish on my recent visit was the fried liver and polenta.

Best Bites (for cicchetti, Venetian tapas)

My three favorite spots are listed below. Check out my cicchetti post for a thorough run-down of different spots for Venetian tapas, organized by neighborhood.

Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi

This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice, so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city. I like it for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.

Do Spade

This long-time Venetian spot has solid cicchetti choices and a traditional atmosphere. There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition.

Osteria al Cicheto

Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists. This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may walk past the turn off the main street the first time like I did, but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice – Best Spots to Sample Cicchetti

Best Bites (gelato)

I haven’t loved any of the gelato I’ve had in Venice, although I’ve tried many places. I’d recommend waiting to be in other parts of Italy to savor some frozen goodness, but if the craving hits in Venice, these are the best places I’ve tried:

suso-20160917_164214

Gelatoteca SuSo

A bit hard to find, but many agree that this is Venice’s top gelato spot.

La Mela Verde

Their signature green apple flavor (mela verde in Italian) is my favorite of what I’ve sampled.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Venice

What’s your favorite part about Venice?  Share in the Comments below.

Happy Travels! Lana

Venice Italy Cheat Sheet - Best Things to Do and Eat

12 Things To Expect on Your Visit That Are “So Perth”

12 Things To Expect on Your Visit That Are “So Perth”

I had (almost) forgotten so many things that make Perth a wonderful and unique city. I lived there for just over a year, and then went for my first return trip just a few months ago. I pride myself on having an excellent memory, so it really was quite a shock to the system to realize how much of what I knew about Perth that had migrated to the outer edges of my recollections and only returned to my consciousness in force when I was experiencing the city in person again.

The thing about moving away from a city where you’ve lived is that while you take many memories with you, there are so many more memories that are so inextricably tied to a sense of place that you only recall them walking the same streets, hearing the noises of the neighborhood, and smelling the aromas you’ve left behind. It’s the reason we re-visit places from our past, and why we’re drawn in some cases to travel to the same place over and over again.

What you need to know about Perth is that while it may be considered by many to be the most isolated city in the world, it’s an incredible city for living. Winters are mild, people are friendly, and even the public toilets are nice. What’s not to love?

Even many Australians from east coast cities like Melbourne and Sydney have never ventured to Perth (for those of you unfamiliar with the size of Australia, it’s about the size of the continental US – taking 5 hours flying to traverse east to west), so Perth can be a bit of a mystery, even to the Aussies. Every city has its own flavor, and Perth is no different, with all its quirks.

Here are some things that stood out in my rush of memories on my recent visit, and that you should also expect when you go. Things that are “so Perth.”

#1 | Friendly People

Australians in general are a pretty friendly bunch, and people in Perth really exemplify this. You’ll notice it when you’re getting coffee or browsing in a shop, or doing any activity really. On my recent trip I went to an outdoor kickboxing class with a friend, and the friendliness of the *other* people taking the class really blew me away. Although I was not a regular and they did not know me, every time we were running laps between intervals, the Aussies were shouting “good on you” and other words of encouragement. A stark contrast to other places I’ve lived for sure.

sun CIMG1088

#2 | Sunny Days

When most people picture Australia, it’s probably a sunny image, but Perth takes things to a whole new level. It’s the sunniest capital city in the world, averaging 8 hours of sunshine daily, so any visit is likely to include mostly sun-filled days. For me this also means that I usually have some sort of hat or visor with me at all times, because the Australian sunshine is H-O-T. And beware that the hole in the ozone layer above Australia is no joke. I would sometimes get a bit of color or even sunburn on my 10-minute walk to the grocery store. But if you’re anything like me, bright sunshine puts you in a good mood, so every day feels like a pleasant vacation.

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#3 | Great Coffee

Anyone who’s ever been to Australia knows that there are excellent espresso-drinks nearly everywhere – in fact, it was when I was living in Perth that I became a full-fledged coffee snob. Perth is pretty laid-back overall, but they sure do take their coffee seriously, from the beans to the roast to the barista artwork. And when you’re arriving in Perth from outside Australia like I was on my recent visit, the difference is striking. Enjoy several discerning cups of coffee, and appreciate it while you can.

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#4 | Beaches

Like most major settlements across Australia, Perth is basically on the coast. The Central Business District, or CBD, is a bit inland along the Swan River, but most of metropolitan Perth’s coast is along the Indian Ocean. There are several great surfing beaches easily accessible by public transportation, areas like Mettam’s Pool with world-class snorkeling right off the beach, extended sections of coast that are basically a giant playground like Hillary’s Boat Harbour, and plenty of bars and restaurants up and down the coastline. Beaches are so loved by locals I even had co-workers on adjusted work schedules so they could head to the beach before or after work EVERY DAY.

#5 | Wind

People in Perth always told me that it was the 1st sunniest capital city in the world and the 3rd windiest. I’m not sure how accurate the windiest claim is, but the takeaway is that Perth can be quite shockingly windy. Somehow the grid of the CBD lines up with the typical wind currents, so you’ll experience some pretty strong wind gusts in the streets of downtown. It also tends to get more windy as the day goes on, so people in the know head to the beaches in the morning hours, before the windiest part of the day sets in.

me and a kangaroo and city of Perth 282720_856978546015_1869717992_n (2)

#6 | Kangaroos

You don’t need to go to a wildlife park or zoo to get a glimpse of a kangaroo – there are plenty of wild kangaroos hanging out in and around Perth. Not far (and walkable!) from the CBD is Heirisson Island, with an area open to the public with wild kangaroos, in full view of the downtown skyscrapers. There are also quite a few wild kangaroos that hang out and play in Yanchep National Park, north of the city. When I was at Yanchep there were some kangaroos fighting – remember that kangaroos are powerful animals and don’t get too close in the wild, they have a fierce kick when balanced on their tail! Still very cool that kangaroos are just hanging around in many places throughout the city, especially at dusk.

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#7 | Rainbows

For a place as sunny as Perth, rainbows are not something you would expect with great frequency. But there is just something about the weather patterns (and possibly how quickly the sun reappears after rainfall?) that makes huge arcs of color a common sight. Living there, I remember being very excited the first time I saw a rainbow, and immediately snapped a picture. A few days later, I felt like the luckiest rainbow-spotter ever, and took another photo. Not long after, I realized how often rainbows would appear, although that didn’t make them any less beautiful. I probably took more rainbow pictures in my one year living there than everywhere else I’ve ever visited combined!

#8 | Crazy Costs

Australia is a giant island, so many things have to be brought in from overseas, and are priced accordingly. Perth is so isolated – even from the rest of Australia – that prices can even be a bit higher than in other parts of Oz. The good news is that while the prices look exorbitant, for many nationalities coming from abroad, the currency exchange rate is way more favorable now than before. For example, when I lived there 5 years ago, the Australian dollar and US dollar were basically at parity, US$1 = AUD$1. Now an Australian dollar only costs about 75 US cents. My strategy on my last trip was to think about paying in US dollars or Euro, and then I had a very pleasant surprise when I saw the actual charges on my credit card bill =)

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#9 | Wine Country

Did you know that Western Australia produces a disproportionally large percentage of Australia’s premium wines? While the most famous region is Margaret River, about a 3-hour drive south of Perth, don’t worry if you don’t have enough time to make that trek. Because there is also a wonderful wine region that is right off of the Perth metro, called Swan Valley, not far from the city center. It’s an easy drive to get there from Perth by car or metro, you can rent bikes and ride around the 32-kilometer loop that links many of the area wineries, or sign up for one of the many food and wine tours of the area. It’s the oldest wine region in Western Australia, and the area now boasts breweries, distilleries, and many excellent purveyors of culinary products – from coffee to honey to lavender.

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia

#10 | Birds of Every Feather

There are lots of birds all over Perth, but those you’re likely to encounter are the swans, the ravens, and the magpies.

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To See: Perth was settled around the Swan River, and you can guess how the river got its name! Especially along the bike and walking paths along the river’s edge in the CBD, you’ll come across both white and black swans, just a short stroll from the heart of the city. While they are beautiful, keep your distance as swans are not the nicest of animals.

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To Hear: You’ll hear the ravens before you see them, and as you listen to their repetitive, whiny caw, you’ll wonder how a bird could possibly make such an unpleasant noise. The birds tend to be black and either up in a tree or hopping around along the ground, as long as no people have approached too closely. I had nearly forgotten all about their existence until the first time I heard their distinctive call during my recent trip. There is a lot of green space throughout the city of Perth, so there are plenty of trees where the birds like to nest, and you’ll hear them if you’re walking anywhere in the vicinity.

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To Avoid:

Magpies, innocuous-looking black and white birds, can pose quite a danger when defending their urban nesting areas. You’ll need to be cautious during their ‘swooping season’ in September and October, when they can actually cause real damage to humans, especially cyclists. If you’ll be around Perth then, familiarize yourself with tips on staying safe. There is a good overview of what to do and not to do from Australia’s LifeHacker site here.

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#11 | Bustling Downtown

Lots of cities have a bustling downtown, but the city of Perth makes it even easier to navigate – for free! There is actually a Free Tansit Zone (FTZ) that encompasses the major swath of downtown. All of the bus lines that cross through the CBD are free so long as you board and leave within the boundaries of the FTZ. There are also several CAT lines (red, blue, yellow, & green) for ‘Central Area Transit’ that loop through the downtown area – and even a bit beyond – that are completely free to ride. This means that during lunchtime on a weekday, local workers don’t typically restrict themselves to the immediate vicinity of their office building, but can be seen riding the buses to hit up the best restaurants for a delicious lunch, all within the time constraints of their lunch break – and for free.

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#12 | Fireworks

When I lived in Perth, the first time I was sitting on the couch on a Tuesday evening and heard the explosive noise, I was alarmed and had to take a moment to think. My New Yorker sensibilities suggested that it might be a gunshot or explosion, but then I realized that not only is Australia (and Perth in particular) incredibly safe, but almost nobody owns a gun due to its strict laws. My next thought – could it be fireworks? I rushed out to the balcony to take a look and was delighted to discover a colorful display taking place over the Swan River. Little did I know when choosing an apartment that its view would offer front-row seating for the ridiculously frequent fireworks displays. Fireworks displays happen so often in Perth there’s even a blog dedicated to just that – Why are there fireworks in Perth tonight? So yes, when you visit, if you’re downtown in the early evening, you’ll probably see fireworks. Look up and enjoy the show!

As you can tell, I loved Perth and found it such an interesting place to be able to live. And recently, to come back as a visitor. While Australia if far from many places, it’s quite close to Asia, and a great place to pop into when you’re nearby or set as a destination for a longer trip.

Anything I missed about Perth? Any things that are also “so typical” about where you live? Share in the Comments below!

12 Things to Expect on Your Visit to Perth in Western Australia

Top Picks for Churches, Art, and Amazing Views in Florence

Top Picks for Churches, Art, and Amazing Views in Florence

There is no shortage of things to do on a visit to Florence, however there is so much to do it can be quite overwhelming. I’ve spent many different trips visiting the city over the past 3 years, and have been to quite a lot of the sights.

Here are my favorite picks for the city, depending on where your interests lie:

Incredible Art

Galleria dell’Accademia

There is a vast and lovely collection here, but let’s be real, you come for one thing: the original statue of David by Michelangelo. Due to the crowds, it is best to come with the Firenze Card or a timed ticket early in the morning. Although there is a quite good David replica in the Piazza della Signoria, nothing compares to the raw beauty and craftsmanship of the original.

TIP! Only buy a timed ticket from the official website linked above, otherwise you will be paying a huge markup. You can buy online up until the day before, but it’s best to do this as far in advance as possible.

TIP! Even if you don’t have the Firenze Card or managed to reserve for a time slot, you can minimize waiting time by coming first thing in the morning. On my last visit, I was in the non-reserved line (far right if you’re facing the entrance) by 8:05am and was inside by 8:30am.

Palazzo Vecchio

This is my favorite of the art museums in Florence, because it has a variety of different types of art and a lot of period rooms with the furniture and paintings in place. The Palazzo Vecchio also houses my favorite museum room, the Hall of Geographical Maps, built at the request of Cosimo de Medici and including a hidden door to a secret passage – see if you can spot it! The Palazzo Vecchio also has ruins underneath and a tower you can ascend for views of the city (see “Towers to Climb” section below). Even if you don’t have the Firenze Card, the ticket office does not usually have a line.

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Uffizi Gallery

This is possibly the most famous art museum in Florence with its renowned art collection and huge queues. While there is no individual piece of art that I saw that sticks in my mind, I do remember being wowed by the beauty. The impressive collection will have you swooning with the rest of the visitors. The crowds are massive, and the first non-Italian to head up the Uffizi may have even succeeded in shaking things up by the time you visit.

TIP! The lines are almost always long to enter, so I strongly recommend coming with the Firenze Card or buying a timed ticket in advance from the link above (which is the official link, and saves you the huge markup of private tour providers).

Churches of Note

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Duomo (cathedral)

Florence’s Duomo is iconic with its different colors of marble adorning the outside and the red-tiled dome visible from many vistas in Florence. Definitely a must-visit spot for Florence, although go early to avoid a long wait – even if you have the Firenze Card. You can climb the dome as well as the bell tower (see “Towers to Climb” section below).

TIP! The Firenze Card won’t get you expedited entrance to the cathedral itself, so if the line is massive, you can either enter more quickly by hiring one of the tour guides milling around or use your Firenze Card to climb to the Cupola where you can expedited entry and check out the inside of the Duomo during your ascent which takes you inside (see “Towers to Climb” section below).

San Marco

This church close to the Galleria dell’Accademia is nice, but the convent turned museum is the real highlight. This is a nice spot to visit because there is not much of a line and it is also on the Firenze Card. There are several rooms around a courtyard with lovely artworks and sculpture, plus the rooms of the convent on the floor above which all have wall murals and some of which peer down into the older ruins underneath.

Santa Croce

This is a lovely basilica, although due to its location close to other attractions in the historical center, it is often crowded with tour groups. There is a lot more to see than you’d expect once you get inside, so plan enough time for your visit unless you’re on the Firenze Card and just popping in for quick look.

Basilica di Santa Maria Novella, right next to our hotel

Santa Maria Novella

Many visitors pass by the church of Santa Maria Novella, as it is opposite the main train station that bears its name, but far fewer take the time to visit. Which is a shame, because this has probably been my biggest surprise in my time in Florence. I went on my second trip to the city, because I had a Firenze Card that was still valid and some time to kill before catching my train back to Milan (and am so glad I did). The highlight for me were the giant frescoes around the inner courtyard.

Around Town

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Piazza della Signoria

A piazza is just a plaza or open square, but the stunning thing about Florence is the incredible artwork and sculptures you discover. Piazza della Signoria is probably the most famous Florentine piazza, as it is bordered by the Palazzo Vecchio and Uffizi Gallery (see “Incredible Art” above). In the piazza itself, are statues of the god Neptune and Cosimo de’ Medici, a replica of Michelangelo’s David statue (where the original once stood), and often rotating works that are part of temporary art exhibitions.

Loggia dei Lanzi

This is an elevated platform also bordering the Piazza della Signoria, with a number of lovely sculptures. It is covered and has seating, so is also a good spot to sit and rest, or to duck out of a sudden rainstorm.

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Piazza della Repubblica

This is another plaza you are likely to happen upon as you stroll the city, which you’ll recognize by its dramatic archway and the historical carousel on the square itself.

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Piazza del Mercato Nuovo

Between the Piazza della Repubblica and the Ponte Vecchio, you’ll come across the “new market” with vendors predominantly selling the leather products Tuscany is known for producing.

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Ponte Vecchio

Literally meaning old bridge, the Ponte Vecchio distinguishes itself from the many other bridges crossing the Arno river since it is the only one with buildings. Today the shops are jewelry merchants, and there are nice views of the river from the break between shops in the center of the bridge. It looks so much like the neighboring streets when you approach that you may not even realize that you’ve crossed onto the bridge.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

Off the Beaten Path

Galileo museum

This was an exciting discovery that is not off the beaten path geographically (it’s very close to the Uffizi Gallery), but is far less visited than other sights. There is a vast collection of scientific instruments through the ages and some great, interactive displays. The Galileo museum can also be a nice shift if you’ve been seeing lots of art all day, and is conveniently part of the Firenze Card.

Mercato Centrale

It took me a few visits to Florence to come to the central market for the first time. It is in a historical building that has been revived with different food stalls representing many types of Italian cuisine, and also selling fresh produce like any other market. It is fun just to walk around and take in the sights and smells, as well as stopping for a bite.

Great Synagogue and Jewish museum

The museum is inside the synagogue itself, and is also on the Firenze Card. Built in the late 1800s, there is a lot of detail in the artwork and architecture of the structure, and the museum provides interesting insights into the Jewish history of the area.

TIP! Be aware that the synagogue is closed on Saturdays as well as other Jewish holidays throughout the year. Check out the link above for a full list of closure dates so you can plan your visit accordingly.

READ MORE: Most Frequently Asked Questions about Florence

Amazing Views

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Boboli Gardens

The gardens themselves are nice to visit, and happen to be connected to the Palazzo Pitti, which houses a series of smaller museums with different types of collections. As you ascend the many terraces of the gardens and wander off to the side paths, you’ll get a variety of views of Florence. This is only during the day though, as the gardens shut in the early evening well before sunset. On your way out of the gardens, veer to the right as you go downhill to check out some of the grotto areas with unique decorations.

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Fort Belvedere

The fort is usually not too crowded, is near the top of the Boboli Gardens, and has some quintessential views of Florence. While this is an uncrowded spot that many Italians visit to take in the sunset, note that there is a closing time and you may not catch the end of sunset or be able to linger afterward. The views are spectacular, though.

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Piazzale Michaelangelo

This is by far the most popular (and crowded) of the options for catching amazing views of Florence, but is especially popular for catching a broad view of sunset over the city. Do note that you will not be alone, and it will not be quiet. When I’ve gone to watch sunset, there is basically a mass migration of tourists from the river heading the same way. At the top, it is a mix of serious photographers, people selling selfie sticks, and live bands playing for money. It’s still popular though, because it’s still an incredible view and you can linger as long as you like.

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San Miniato al Monte

This is the quietest of spots, in part because it is the hardest to get to. You can get there on foot with a longer uphill walk than Piazzale Michelangelo, or arrive by bus or car. I have only been here in the morning, but can attest to great views of the city that would perfect for sunset as well. The church is also worth visiting, as one of the oldest in the area and featuring different artwork from the other churches you’ll visit in town.

Towers to Climb (aka More Amazing Views)

Campanile (bell tower of Duomo complex)

The bell tower tends to have a shorter line to enter and climb, but it’s still best to come first thing in the morning for visiting all of the parts of the Duomo. The benefit of climbing the Campanile (other than a shorter wait) is that you can get a close up view and take excellent pictures of the dome.

Duomo cupola (dome)

The dome allows a close up view of the ceiling on the inside of the cathedral along the way, so if the line to enter the Duomo is long, this can be a quicker way to gain entrance to see the cathedral, provided you have the Firenze Card. It also has panoramic views of the city as you walk around the bottom of the dome and peer in all directions.

View along the climb up the Palazzo Vecchio tower
View along the climb up the Palazzo Vecchio tower

Palazzo Vecchio tower

Incuded on the Firenze Card or available as part of the several combination tickets for the Palazzo Vecchio, this tower is the one I would recommend if you only climb one tower in Florence. It is far less crowded than the two climbing spots in the Duomo complex and since you are a bit away from the Duomo, you can see the cathedral in your pictures. In fact, this is the spot where my picture in the “About Me” section on the website sidebar comes from!

 

Normally I would have a “Best Bites” section as part of a city overview, however there is so much to do and so many great places to eat in Florence that I’ve split it into two separate posts. Check out the links below for my top picks for restaurants, gelato, and aperitivo spots to frequent in Florence in between all of the sightseeing.

READ MORE: Top 6 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Florence

READ MORE: Where to Eat: Best Bites (and Sips) in Florence

What is your favorite sight to visit in Florence? And if you still haven’t been, which attraction is the biggest draw for you?

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Top Things to Do in Florence, Italy - Churches, Art, & Amazing Views

Most Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Florence

Most Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Florence

Florence is becoming a more an more popular tourist destination with each passing year. With the richness of the art there, and the flavorful Tuscan food that will have you savoring your every meal, it is not coming off tourist itineraries any time soon. In recent years, it has become even more popular, especially as the Euro has become more affordable for travelers from outside of Europe.

Over my nearly three years living in Italy, I’ve probably been to Florence around ten different times, most recently last week. Fortunately for me it is a leisurely three-hour drive from Milan or 1 hour 40 minutes on the high-speed train. And since many visitors to Italy have this as a must-see destination, I’ve mostly gone with family and friends who come to visit Milan and pass through Florence at some point as well – the food is so good, I’m always up for a trip.

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Why visit?

You probably don’t need any convincing if you’re still reading, but there are some lovely highlights in Florence that make it such a memorable destination. There is a wealth of incredible art in the many churches and galleries throughout the city, and the cuisine is quite memorable. The highlights from my many visits are:

  • the Duomo (the main cathedral) in stunning white, reddish pink, and green marble with its iconic dome
  • the original David statue by Michaelangelo in the Galleria dell’Accademia
  • Ponte Vecchio, the old pedestrian bridge across the Arno River
  • many towers and hills with expansive views of the city
  • the food and wine – Tuscany is widely considered one of the best places to eat in Italy

      READ MORE: Top 6 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Florence

When is tourist season?

Well, I was there in mid-March this year, and it was already crowded. For 2016, I would say that high tourist season will be from March through October, with the very peak season from May until August. As with all travel, you’ll need to balance wanting to explore the city in nice weather and how many other people you’ll be sharing the experience with.

How much time is needed to experience Florence?

I would say within the city itself, plan to spend 2-3 days, depending on how much you like art or how much (leather) shopping you want to do. If you’re planning to take day trips to other cities in Tuscany or wine regions nearby (Pisa, Chianti, Montalcino, Montepulciano, San Gimmignano, and more), plan for additional time. And be aware that many tourist attractions are closed on Mondays.

     READ MORE: Top Picks for Churches, Art, and Amazing Views in Florence

What are some ways to minimize time waiting in line and maximize time seeing the sights?

The main way to avoid the queues is to purchase the Firenze Card (Firenze is Florence’s name in Italian). It costs a whopping 72 Euros, but if you plan to see a lot of sights in a limited amount of time, it is a worthy investment. At most sights, you get an expedited line for entry, meaning more time exploring. It also means that you will have the ability to pop in briefly to sights you wouldn’t have otherwise seen, because it is at no additional cost to take a peek. Just be aware that you only get 1 entry to each location, so you can’t just split up a visit to the Uffizi Gallery over two days (or you can, but you’ll have to wait and pay to get in after your one visit on the Card).

Yeah, I think we made good use of the Firenze card...

If you do not get the Firenze Card, you can still make a few individual reservations to cover the sights that typically have the longest waits. Be sure to book these on the official websites, unless you want a tour included at (an often exorbitant) additional cost. The main places in Florence you’ll want to reserve in advance are the Galleria dell’Accademia, where the original David statue is & the Uffizi Gallery, an incredibly large collection of art rivalling the greatest art museums of the world. The official website to reserve for either site is here.

TIP! Book tickets for a particular time slot in advance if you can. Even if many days look like they have availability, you may be dismayed to find that if you wait until the last minute there is only 1 ticket left in a single timeslot so the day is not “sold out” per se, however your group will not be able to go.

TIP! Like with most tourist destinations, the best time to visit with minimal crowds is first thing in the morning. An early arrival is especially important for visits to the Duomo (doubly so if you’re visiting outside of the Firenze Card), as the line to enter can sometimes snake along the whole length of the piazza.

Why are there both red and blue/black street numbers? (aka: Why can’t I find my hotel?)

It always takes me a little bit to remember this each time I return to Florence and am looking for a specific address – there are two street numbering systems, one in red and one in blue. When you see an address in a guidebook or on your phone’s map, a lot of times it will say 25red or 25/R to indicate where you should be looking. The tricky part is that the actual numbers often do not correspond at all. So on one block you might have 25, 27, 29. and 31 in red numbers. And then randomly interspersed between them, 62, 64, 66, and 68 in black (red is for businesses, blue or black numbering is for private residences – although if your hotel is a single floor in a larger building it may have a blue/black number, so search carefully before concluding you’re lost).

     READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

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Why is there a bottle of wine already on my table when I go to a restaurant?

No, this is not just for decoration! While there will likely also be a formal wine list with bottles from particular wineries, many restaurants in Florence have a respectable house wine often in a wide bottomed bottle with a thin woven basket around the lower half. You can drink as much as you like, and they will eyeball how much is left at the end of the meal, and charge you accordingly. With this kind of hospitality you’ll never want to leave =)

     READ MORE: Where to Eat: Best Bites (and Sips) in Florence

What were the pressing questions on your mind when you visited Florence? Or are you planning a visit and have other questions I can help answer? Let me know in the Comments below.

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Answered! The most Frequently Asked Questions (FAQs) about travel to Florence, Italy

How to Make the Most of a Weekend in Barcelona

How to Make the Most of a Weekend in Barcelona

Impressions

Barcelona might have been the first city I visited after moving to Europe when I actively solicited recommendations on Facebook from friends about what to do and where to eat. This was long before Travel Savvy Gal was even a bud of an idea, but even then I took what is still my approach: if I’m going to travel, I like to travel well. To me, this doesn’t mean doing the most expensive or exclusive things necessarily, but instead getting a full and rich experience of a particular place. Ten comments on my post and multiple private messages later, I knew I was wise to inquire. I was inundated with suggestions from well-travelled American friends, friends living around Europe, and even a friend from South Africa. So why is Barcelona such a beloved (and well-visited) city across continents?

Thinking back on my weekend exploring Barcelona, I see sunny skies, strolling along lengthy boulevards, the expanse of the Mediterranean, and the vibrancy of the food. I think it’s something about coastal cities that there is this open possibility that comes with every day. A feeling that makes me smile when I think of Barcelona.

I’m not sure if it was because my one and only visit to Barcelona was in springtime, or because it was my first time visiting Spain, but just entering the city put a lightness in my step. The weather was warm but not hot, and the bustle of people made me feel caught up in the bright colors and vivacity of the city. I had such a wonderful time exploring, and know you will, too!

Things to Do

There is a ton to take in in Barcelona, but you can really have a leisurely weekend and see quite a lot. Or squeeze most things in with a more ambitious schedule or by spending an extra day. Here are my top picks for what to do during your visit:

Around Town

We just happened upon a processional walking past the Cathedral
We just happened upon a processional walking past the Cathedral

Cathedral

A stunning Gothic cathedral very centrally located, this is one of the spots to definitely explore. Check out the website linked above for the various visiting house – sometimes it’s free to enter, other times there is a donation required.

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Old Jewish Quarter & Medieval Synagogue
Not far from the Cathedral, you can explore the old streets and also visit the medieval synagogue, one of the oldest in Europe. It is small and is more like seeing an archaeological excavation than seeing a modern house of worship, so a great window into Barcelona’s past.

Museo Picasso

I really enjoyed this museum, the only one dedicated to Picasso’s works during his lifetime. He first moved to Barcelona as a teenager with his family, and spent later years there as well.

La Rambla

This is a street, which is not your typical tourist recommendation, however this came up with almost everyone who recommended Barcelona sights to me. It is a large sprawling boulevard that connects the Plaça de Catalunya in the center to the waterfront, is a popular spot for strolling, and has many things to see along the way:

(I've never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before)
(I’ve never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before)

La Boqueria market. See the colorful produce on offer in Barcelona, and the market is also a great spot to stop for a drink or a meal (see “Best Bites” section below).

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Plaça Reial. This large plaza adorned with palm trees reminds me of many others and does not seem distinct to Barcelona, but has a lively scene or restaurants along its perimeter and is worth a quick peek as you stroll down La Rambla.

Mirador de Colom. Right before you get to the waterfront, there is a tower of Christopher Columbus dominating the center of a roundabout. Snap a few pictures before heading to the water’s edge.

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Waterfront. A pedestrian walkway makes the stroll along Barcelona’s waterfront as comforting as any boardwalk you enjoyed strolling growing up.

Off the Beaten Path

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Casa Battlo

Gaudi, a Spanish architect who designed many buildings around Barcelona, may be the most famous thing about Barcelona. Casa Battlo is one of the houses he designed, a bit off the beaten path, but not too far from the city center and with a ton of rooms open to the public across many levels, including an audioguide.

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La Sagrada Familia

Although still currently unfinished, this Catholic church designed by Gaudi is possibly his most iconic creation in the city. It is a long walk or short metro ride from the center, and is probably the most popular attraction in Barcelona. See the “Amazing Views” section below for more on accessing the view from the top.

TIP! Also off the beaten path are other Gaudi creations, including Casa Milà and Park Güell, the latter also providing an elevated view of the city.

Image: Pixabay
Image: Pixabay

Magic Fountain of Montjuïc

This light and fountain show only runs on Thursday-Saturday nights (Wednesday-Sunday in summer), so if you are spending the weekend in Barcelona it’s a perfect time to check out the fountain choreography and changing lights set to musical medleys.

Amazing views

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Towers of La Sagrada Familia

There is a lift that brings you up to the towers of the church for a high vantage point, and is worth organizing in advance as entrance capacity is more restricted than the church itself. More details are linked above.

Parc del Mirador del Poble Sec

This and other nearby gardens in the Poble Sec neighborhood of Barcelona offer wide views of the city and waterfront, and are a refreshing break as the green spaces are frequented more typically by locals than tourists.

Best Bites

Barcelona, like many parts of Spain, is all about the tapas (small plates) and the wine. This approach to eating is perfectly suited to me because I love getting to try lots of different dishes and finding a tasty accompaniment to wash it all down. In Barcelona, I felt like there was a focused approach to each traditional small plate, bringing forth flavor combinations to give you pause, and local wine that pairs so well with the typical cuisine. And I was fortunate enough to travel with a friend who is a kindred spirit when it comes to seeking out delicious meals. The top places I enjoyed during my stay:

Traditional Tapas

Papas bravas, baccala' del dia, y vino
Papas bravas, baccala’ del dia, y vino

Whether you eat here or not, this market off of the famous La Rambla boulevard is definitely worth a visit. In addition to vendors selling incredibly fresh produce, there are a lot of stands with stools or nearby tables where you can eat a sit-down meal. I squeezed in to the last spot at the bar at El Quim for a tasty Friday lunch, when I was still flying solo.

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This was one of the places recommended to me by a friend, and became the default choice for Sunday lunch as one of the few places open that day. It was so crowded when we first entered that there was half an instinct to turn right around and find a calmer place, but waiting had its rewards. The service was very friendly and our server made great recommendations, and all of the dishes were well-executed versions of classic tapas. The octopus dish was especially memorable.

Innovative Tapas

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I knew in advance that La Pepita does not take reservations (“sin reserva”), but arriving for a late lunch on a Saturday meant being able to be seated immediately. This is not your traditional take on tapas, but the restaurant is true to the principles of putting complementary flavors together on the plate that give you pause to savor each bite. The staff was also very welcoming, making for an excellent overall experience.

Dessert & Drinks

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It’s been a while now, but this pastry shop won “best chocolate cake in the world” back in 2005, and they are still serving up the special Xabina cake slice, with many layers of texture and flavor. Not far from El Xampanyet (see above) and worth seeking out.

  • El Born & Gracia neighborhoods

No particular bar stands out to me for after-dinner drinks although I frequented a few, but these two neighborhoods have lively nightlife scenes and are great areas to walk around and then you are free to pop into whatever place strikes your fancy.

On the high end

This was a budget weekend away, so I did not visit any “fancy” restaurants, however I would be remiss to not mention two very world-renowned spots for those who might be interested:

  • Tickets Bar – If you are not new to the foodie scene, you’ve heard of Ferran Adrià of El Bulli fame. When El Bulli was open, it was considered by many to be the best restaurant in the world, receiving a million reservation requests for just a few thousand dining slots annually for their molecular gastronomy experiments on a plate. The Adrià brothers have Tickets Bar as their latest project, with reservations available online two months in advance.

 

 

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Shopping

I am not usually a person who buys a lot of souvenirs or is that into shopping as I travel, but Barcelona has so many wonderful things at great prices, that I would definitely leave extra room in your bag to take your purchases home. I had not planned ahead, so kept my buying modest: I bought a scarf that I wear often, an earring and bracelet set, as well as two Gaudi-decorated espresso glasses with spoons. But if I had more space, there were also great artist shops all around and really interesting and beautiful clothes for great prices. Next time…

 

Have you visited Barcelona before? What is your favorite part about visiting Spain? Or what you’re most looking forward to on your first trip? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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How To Spend 48 Hours - A Weekend in Barcelona Spain

Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

Impressions

Berlin is very different from other German cities I’ve visited, and at some moments does not feel like Germany at all. It has this young, industrial bustle, is teeming with hipsters, and embraces ethnic food and the latest trends. However, there are still moments when you feel like you could be in any European city and not Berlin specifically: walking along the tree-lined Kurfürstendamm for high-end shopping, or strolling the Alexanderplatz hunting for bargains with the masses at TK Maxx (yes, just like TJ Maxx).

Modern Berlin is a city of contradictions. It is both distinct and anonymous. I’ve heard it compared to Austin, Texas, which is a city in Texas that has such a different flavor than other Texas cities, and sometimes doesn’t feel like Texas. A pretty apt comparison, in fact.

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Berlin is both rule-following and rebellious. I was there when Germany beat Slovakia in the Round of 16 of the 2016 Euro Cup. The Germans went wild celebrating in their cars, driving up the main streets with German flags streaming out of the car windows and honking their horns for hours. But the cars also proceeded in a very orderly manner, taking great care not to block the second lane reserved for buses. And while the bus drivers who monitor tickets by hand and the U-bahn and S-bahn run like clockwork, I saw many Germans ignoring the rules – smoking on train platforms and drinking on board.

Oh, and the history. I thought I knew about Berlin during the Cold War, East and West Germany, the Berlin wall. I didn’t realize how much I didn’t know until visiting Berlin. I think I was most surprised by everything I learned about the Berlin wall. I was not alive when it went up, although I remember watching the wall come down on TV. And I even visited the largest (unchanged) section of the Wall outside of Germany in the late 1990s when it was part of an outdoor display of the Newseum in DC. But somehow I managed to escape that time period without a coherent understanding of what the wall was and how it came into being.

The first “wall” was really just a wall of soldiers that appeared overnight in 1961. People went to bed one night with free passage to family and friends in the other sectors of Berlin, and woke up to a human barrier around East Berlin that was already in the process of being converted into a physical wall.

For me, understanding the suddenness of the shift helped to explain some of the desperation I read and heard about the various escape attempts from East to West Berlin: the twenty-something student who wanted to reunite with his parents, the 80-year old woman who wanted to join her daughter. Both perished in their attempts. Or the East German border guard who jumped the wall in the early days when it was just a bunch of barbed wire, captured in this iconic photograph. Although Conrad Schumann escaped to freedom, his defection haunted him throughout his life and he committed suicide nearly a decade after the fall of the Berlin wall.

Things to Do

As you can tell, the history of Berlin really captivated me. See below for my top picks for what to do during your visit (in order of preferene within each section):

Around Town

Walking Tour

There is so much to see and history to take in, so I found it hugely helpful to have a walking tour to orient me and explain the major sites on my first afternoon. I did a tour with Original Berlin Walks that I thought was fabulous (and did not require an advance reservation, which was a plus), although there are other highly-rated walking tours available.

TIP! The walking tours that have Western meeting points typically are listed 30-minutes sooner than the Easten meeting point because you spend the first half-hour traveling east together. Unless you’re nervous, about finding the spot for yourself, arrange your itinerary for the day to arrive at the eastern meeting point at the appointed time.

TIP! While there is a small discount for booking online in advance, there is an even bigger discount if you have the Berlin Welcome Card, and pay in person on the day.

 

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Holocaust memorial

This is an outdoor memorial, which I recommend experiencing first-hand, and there is also a museum on site that does a good job of conveying information in a way that makes you think, even if you’ve been to other Holocaust memorials or museums.

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Brandenburg gate

Icon of the city, and even more special to be able to visit it today since it was inaccessible while the Berlin Wall stood. You are likely to come across this during your visit, even if you do not actively seek it out.

Jüdisches Museum

Different from the museum at the Holocaust memorial, because it gives a window into Jewish life in Germany both before and after. Famous architect Daniel Libeskind designed some of the newer sections, and the temporary art exhibit upstairs was also very good when I visited.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie

This was probably one of the least user-friendly museums I’ve ever visited, because the written materials are written in long-form in four languages and is very hard to follow and glean key details. Despite the super-long blurbs, it is very cool to see the memorabilia that has been accummulated in the private collection, especially of methods people used to escape from East Berlin, from the more well-known car compartments to the more obscure surfboards and hot air balloon.

Checkpoint Charlie

It is cool to see the place where this border crossing once stood, although the current checkpoint is a reproduction. Named “Charlie” because the checkpoints were named consecutively using the phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie). This third American checkpoint was the most visible while the Wall still stood.

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Neue Synagoge

Although this was once the main synagogue in Berlin, it has not been fully reconstructed. It is still stunning from the outside (it is modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain), and has a history of the Berlin Jewish community, including fun tidbits like the “well-known violin concert” given there in 1930 by none other than Albert Einstein.

Off the Beaten Path

Berlin Wall Memorial/Gedenkstatte Beliner Mauer

While there isn’t much of the wall itself left at this site, there is a moving set of poles marking the location of what by the end of its time was a much more elaborate barricade between East and West Berlin. The “Wall” really ended up being two different walls with empty space in between called “the death strip,” and this memorial marks many of the successful and failed attempts for those in East Berlin to escape. This is an open-air exhibit which will take you several hours to walk through and absorb the thorough written, audio, and video descriptions of this section of the wall. Most surprising to me was seeing a photo from when Martin Luther King Jr. visited the Berlin wall in the mid-1960s, even giving a speech on both sides of the wall. There is also a whole exhibit inside the local S-bahn Nordbahnhof stop about what happened to the metro system when the wall was up.

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East Side Gallery

This is an open-air exhibit of a very long section of the Berlin Wall that has been thoughtfully decorated by artists from around the world. Worth a trip, and you can visit at any time of day.  Check out this Photo Gallery of some of the most interesting sections.

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Sachsenhausen

This concentration camp is accessible by train from the city center, although it takes a while to reach. There are tours available either from Berlin or on site, although I found the audio guide quite useful during my visit. An important part of German history that I found very moving to see first-hand.

Amazing views

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Reichstag Dome

This iconic building that houses the German Parliament has a glass dome with an inclined ramp that is free to visit for expansive views of Berlin, although it does require advance registration. If you are booking early enough, there is the possibility of registering on-line, and guided tour registration may also be available online if you visit when Parliament is not in session.

TIP! If, like me, you are planning last-minute, you can register in person for the same day or next day in-person from 8am. While there is a small line right at 8am, by 8:20am or so there was no wait (and it can be up to an hour wait or more in the afternoon). Be sure to bring your passport or European ID card to sign up, they let in 100 people per hour.

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Fernsehturm (the TV tower)

You can buy an early-bird ticket, or just go on the early side to beat lines (and you’ll still get discounted admission if you have the Berlin Welcome Card). There is an indoor viewing window where you can walk around at your leisure and appreciate a fairly high-altitude view of all corners of the city. Like with the Reichstag Dome in-person ticket purchase, after the first 20-30 minutes of opening, you can get in without waiting.

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Berliner Dom

The Berlin cathedral is lovely to visit and in addition to housing some exhibitions and a crypt, there is also the option (which I recommend!) of climbing several hundred stairs to get up to the walkway outside of the dome for 360-degree views of the city and some exhilirating fresh air.

Best Bites

I ate really well in Berlin. Like, really well. And I don’t say that lightly. While I sampled my fair share of ethnic food, my best bites (breakfast aside) were mostly the local specialties:

Best Breakfasts

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  • Chipps

Chipps serves a variety of large portion breakfasts meant for people with appetites (like me), although there is the usual selection of pastries and yogurts for those looking for a more minimal meal. There >is also a vegan option for the bacon and sausage that accompanies some of the dishes, plus nice coffee and fresh juice options.

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  • Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers

    I had a wonderful Australian-style breakfast here – a flat white coffee drink with perfectly-seasoned avocado toast, and I got the addition of a poached egg. The pastries looked great as well, and while very centrally located, Father Carpenter’s is in a quaint courtyard with outdoor seating as well as the space indoors.

Best Street Food

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  • Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap This is *the* place for kebap, a very popular street food in Berlin. I got the “usual” version here, which comes with chicken. The bread is toasted perfectly, and the proportion of ingredients was just perfect down to the spray of juice from a lemon wedge to finish. Each kebap is made to order with care, and you will wait accordingly (1 hour when I went, so go early before usual mealtimes if you can). And be sure to go to the original at Mehringdamm, as the two locals I met in line told me that the other outposts closer to the main tourist areas are not as good.

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  • Hühnerhaus 36

    Serving Berlin’s typical fried chicken, I had a perfectly crispy and flavorful 1/2 hen with the spicy garlic sauce, which also comes with a choice of salad/fries/rice/bulgur. There is the street stand and the sit-down place across the street from each other, and they are Halal. This place is off the beaten path, although not terribly far from the East Side Gallery.

Best German food

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  • Zur Letzten Instanz

    One of the 10 oldest restaurants in the world (it is rumored that Napoleon ate here once), they have been satisfying hungry customers since 1621! But don’t come only for the history, this place serves up typical German fare done well. I don’t eat pork so I ordered the one fish dish on the menu, which was just phenomenal and came with the best sauerkraut of my life. And it wasn’t very crowded for lunch on a Friday.

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  • Marjellchen

    Although reservations are recommended, I didn’t reserve, but was able to eat at the bar. This is another spot with great typical German dishes. To drink, this is a great spot to sample the local specialty: Berliner Weisse beer “mit schuss,” with rot (red – raspberry) or grün (green – woodruff) syrup.

Best overall meal

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  • Restaurant Bieberbau.  This was the only restaurant where I made a reservation, since it’s off the beaten path and I didn’t want to arrive and get turned away. They serve high-level cuisine with amazing flavors and textures, but with helpful and friendly service, and incredibly reasonable prices. And it is not pretentious at all – my kind of place. The aperitif special the night I was there was a sparkling riesling with rose syrup and the bread basket came with red wine butter and also curry apple butter, just to give you an idea of the flavor combinations and creativity you’ll experience dining here. And you can get a half glass of wine at exactly half price of a regular one, so I got to have a lot of great sips paired with the various courses. A truly satisfying dining experience.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

I’ve included a few practical tips above next to the relevant attraction. Here are a couple more general tips for Berlin:

Berlin Welcome Card

Berlin is huge! It basically developed as two different cities when the wall was up, and then was reunited as one, so there is huge sprawl. Even with unlimited public transit travel, I walked a huge amount each day. I can’t imagine *not* using public transit very heavily as a tourist.

I bought a 5-day Berlin Welcome Card, and found that it was only slightly more expensive than just getting an unlimited transit pass for the same amount of time. Plus, with the Berlin Welcome Card, I received discounts for: my walking tour, going to the top of the Fernsehturm (TV tower), the Jüdisches museum, the Neue Synagogue, and Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.

TIP! You can buy the Berlin Welcome Card ahead of time online.

TIP! If you don’t buy online, there are points of sale for the Berlin Welcome Card at both major airports. And if you buy at the airport, your initial public transit trip into the city will be included. Plus, the line was much shorter to get the Berlin Welcome Card than just a ticket for the bus.

TIP! Know in advance how many days you’d like the pass (2-6 days) and whether you want it for zones A-B for just the city or A-B-C, which includes the periphery like Potsdam.

Get a phone data plan

While I am often an advocate of sticking to WiFi connections and using phone GPS without data for navigating, I found phone data hugely helpful in Berlin. The city is huge, and if nothing else, active data is a helpful tool to navigate efficiently on public transit from one location to another.

Have you visited Berlin before? What was the highlight for you? And what was the most surprising part of its history did you learn during your visit? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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Berlin Germany Cheat Sheet - Tips, What to Do, & Where to Eat

5 Reasons to Visit Stockholm *after* Summer

5 Reasons to Visit Stockholm *after* Summer

Unless it’s to see the Northern Lights, I’ve always thought of Scandinavia as a summer destination. Scandinavia and Sweden are pretty far north, so the best time to go intuitively should be at the hottest point of the year. So when presented with the opportunity to attend a travel blogger conference (TBEX!) in Stockholm back in July, I was excited since I imagined that summer would be the perfect time to check out the Swedish capital.

I had a wonderful time in my few days in Stockholm, both at the conference and out and about in the city on my own, however I couldn’t help thinking throughout my time there that summer just didn’t seem to be the absolute best time for a trip. Here are a few things about summer in Stockholm that made me dream of Stockholm in autumn (or spring):

Stockholm gets hot in summer.

No, really, it does. Actually hot, even by non-Scandinavian standards. Some of the days walking around I was sweating profusely, and even got some color despite slathering up with high-SPF sunscreen. What I did not completely realize until my visit is that Stockholm is actually an archipelago composed of 14 main islands, so as you go around the city you are crossing bridges with no shade and getting a lot of the reflected sunlight from the water everywhere. The hot time of year may be your preferred travel climate, but for me to visit a city, I’d prefer a cooler day where is comfortable to walk around without overheating or needing to carry large quantities of water to stay hydrated.

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Many restaurants close down for several weeks or the whole summer.

In a way it made my travel planning a bit easier, but I was surprised at how many of the restaurants that were on my “to eat” list ended up being closed while I was in town. Fortunately, most places had their closure dates listed prominently on their websites, but there was still one stand for korv that I went out of my way to check out, only to discover that it was closed for several weeks. There was even one restaurant that relocated outside of the city at one of the popular island destinations for the entire summer. If you’re a foodie like me, or want to taste the best of what Stockholm has to offer, you’ll have greater options available by waiting until after summer to make your trip.

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There is construction everywhere during summer.

It makes sense that a city with a cold climate would take advantage of the summer months to catch up on construction and renovations around town, and this is exactly what happens in the Swedish capital. A lot of streets and sidewalks were blocked by active construction and there was a lot of scaffolding around town. Summer also seems to be the time of year that restaurants choose to undergo renovations, so it being prime time for construction further contributes to restaurants being closed at this time of year.

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Avoiding peak season for tourists.

Summer is definitely peak tourist season in Stockholm. Flights and hotels are more expensive, restaurant reservations are harder to come by for the places still open, and all of the sights are more crowded. Obviously between summer vacation for school-age children and it being the warmest weather of the year in Scandinavia, it will remain a popular time for a visit. But if you are a traveler with a bit of scheduling flexibility, coming during the fall or spring shoulder season will mean a more relaxed (and cheaper!) overall experience.

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Better weather to enjoy fika

Fika is the Swedish tradition of a coffee break with pastry, part of the rhythm of a typical day. If you’re like me, if it is hot outside and you’ve been out and about sightseeing, the idea of a hot coffee and snacking on a pastry is not particularly appealing. While I did have the occasional coffee beverage to keep my energy up, I just couldn’t manage to sit down and eat between meals in the heat. I love the idea of having a set break like fika in the morning and afternoon though, which reminds me of living in Australia where it was part of my work contract that I got allotted break time for both morning and afternoon tea. But for me, autumn with its crisp air and turning leaves is the perfect time to savor a hot beverage and have a sweet pastry to break up the day.

 

Have you been to Stockholm? What time of year do you think is best for a visit?

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Naples: Why It’s a Destination

Naples: Why It’s a Destination

“Why do you live in Milan? People are unpleasant there. It is better here, where you can ride your motorcycle without a helmet and drive without a seat belt,” said my first taxi driver in Naples. Who when I paid the 19 Euro fare with a 20 Euro bill, objected to the tip because “that is the price of a coffee.” (I told him to keep the 1 Euro anyway).

This is the chaos of Naples – you can do whatever you want and drive however you like, but then of course you’re driving in a city where everyone else does the same, and you can imagine the crazy traffic that ensues! But it is the excitement of living on the edge at all times that gives Naples its primal energy and bustle, and its very particular charm.

Many visitors to Italy come to Naples, but often spend less than a day hours there, instead using it as a jumping off point to visit the ruins of Pompeii or to head to the island of Capri or nearby Amalfi coast. This is precisely how Naples landed in Lonely Planet’s Secret Europe Destinations 2016 with an article titled “Italy at its red-blooded bargain best,” as a worthy destination where you can appreciate a slice of Italy’s incredible history and art without the crowds you’ll find in some of the more popular Italian cities for tourism. While there has been a surge in interest in Naples as a destination in some crowds after the recent success of Elena Ferrante’s Neapolitan series, overall it is more often treated as a transit point than the satisfying and exhilirating city it can be.

Some say the Neapolitan spirit is due to living in the shadow of Mount Vesuvius. Experts maintain that the volcano is overdue for an eruption. So as a Neapolitan, with the threat of destruction ever lurking, why wouldn’t you live every day to the fullest?

This fiercely independent attitude of Naples manifests itself in interesting ways when you are a tourist:

  • Waiting for one of the last trains back to the center on a Sunday night, and despite there being other people on the platform also waiting, being quite aware of the possibility that no train arrives at all (in this case, it did come, over an hour late!)

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  • Trying to pay a 5 Euro museum entry with a 10 Euro bill, and then being let in for free because the attendant couldn’t be bothered to make change.

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  • Walking past mounds of garbage piled up on the streets that haven’t been collected in a while and are starting to overflow onto the sidewalk (mind you, the trash is near the receptacles, just not collected).

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  • Even paid museums almost never having toilet paper in the bathrooms. So great excitement ensues at the one museum with a communal roll outside of the stalls that still has toilet paper on it.

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  • And sometimes you are wandering around museums with priceless pieces of art, and you are completely alone because no one is monitoring the area.

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  • The only rule I saw consistently was “no selfie shaft.” Otherwise, no rules =)

So when my taxi driver bemoaned that Milanesi wear their seat belts and their helmets, I thought to myself that he may find it appalling, but I actually like Milan that way . . . at least as a place to live. But the stark contrast between the cities means that Naples is one of my favorite cities to visit in all of Italy – you’ve never felt more alive!

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