Foodie Bucket List: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

June 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 22 comments

Belize is a bit of a melting pot, with its food representing many different influences, all delicious.

The varied cuisine in Belize is no surprise, given that it is located at a crossroads between Central America, Mexico, and the Caribbean. There are also Mayan influences dating back thousands of years, seen in the many Belizean dishes based around corn tortillas and beans.

Before visiting, I spent a bit of time researching and compiling a list of local dishes that are typical to Belize, and my mouth was watering before I even got on the plane.

Some of them may sound familiar from similar Mexican or Caribbean dishes, served with a Belizean spin.

What’s nice about Belize is that most of these dishes are widely available, especially those served by the ubiquitous street food vendors. You won’t have to venture far to sample a particular food or struggle to locate the one restaurant in town serving a specific dish, like I’ve done in other places I’ve visited.

It will also be easy to converse with your restaurant server or street vendor if you have any questions about a dish or its ingredients, since Belize’s official language in English.

It’s very easy to navigate your culinary experiences, one of the many reasons I found it such an easy place to travel.

READ MORE: 9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

Belize also has international influences of course, with some high-end restaurants boasting French and Italian influences.

For me though, with my limited time visiting, I was happy to stick to the local specialties.

And with the ease of conversing in English with everyone, I even got a few cooking tips for replicating Belizean dishes at home.

Here’s what I enjoyed:

Breakfast

Fry Jacks

I enjoyed fry jacks nearly every morning for breakfast. Basically, it’s fried dough, and will come in different consistencies and sizes depending on who is making them.

I think I liked all of the versions I had!

It is most often served with eggs and refried beans:

I also enjoyed stuffed jacks, in which the fry jack is sliced open and filled with a scrambled egg mixture (at breakfast) or beans and cheese (later in the day):

Johnny Cakes

A johnny cake (also known as a journey cake, because you take it to go when you’re heading on a trip) is like a corn biscuit. It’s dry and flaky, and usually served as a sandwich with fillings inside.

I only tried it once and didn’t love it, so the next morning I was back to eating fry jacks. It’s definitely worth sampling though, and maybe you’ll enjoy a better version than I had!

Lunch, Dinner, & Snacks

Panades

This is the first of several snack variations you’ll find in Belize made with corn tortillas and toppings or filling.

The terms panades refers to small tortilla pockets that are stuffed with meat – it’s just like a crunchy empanda, but typically smaller and also served with a bit of slaw on top.

Garnaches

To make garnaches, (or garnachas) small tortillas are fried and then topped with refried beans, onions and sometimes other vegetables, and cheese.

The refried beans are applied like a spread, and the soft topping contrast with the crunch of the tortilla underneath. It’s like an open-faced sandwich or flat taco.

Salbutes

Salbutes are another variation of tortilla and toppings. This time the small tortillas are deep fried, so even crunchier than garnaches, and then topped with shredded chicken, pickled onions, and other vegetables. It doesn’t look like much, but these little bites are actually quite filling.

Conch

Conch season runs from October 1^st until late June, and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to enjoy it in its different culinary forms if you visit during that itme.

A conch fritter was the first thing that I ate when I arrived in Belize, and it was a satisfying bite of the seafood surrounded by a rich batter and fried to a golden brown. Conch is also frequently served in ceviche or as part of a soup.

Hudut

This is a traditional dish of the Garifuna people, of Afro-Caribbean descent. It involves fish cooked in coconut broth with a plantain paste.

It’s not all that different from some coconut-based Asian dishes. And it’s an incredibly flavorful way to enjoy some of Belize’s freshest products.

Rice & Beans

Rice and beans is the Belizean national dish, and often said so quickly it sounds like a single word – riceanbeans. It may be different than other versions you’ve tasted because the mix is cooked in coconut milk. Most typically it is served with stewed chicken, although any meat will do.

The versions varied a lot, and in general had a pretty small bean to rice ratio, which is different from other rice and bean dishes I’ve had. And of course, some restaurants had more flavorful versions than others.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Street vendors with large silver pots are probably selling an excellent version of rice and beans.

Hot Sauce

Although I wouldn’t recommend consuming hot sauce on its own, this is a condiment that you’ll see everywhere, from the food stand at the bus station to a proper sit-down restaurant.

The most popular hot sauce is Marie’s, a Belizean-owned company that has been producing award-winning hot sauces since the 1980s. Usually one of their more basic habanero hot sauces will be on the table as a condiment next to the salt and pepper shakers.

There are also homemade spicy concoctions that might appear either instead of or in addition to a bottle of Marie’s. It’s a mixture of chopped onions and habaneros, usually made quite spicy for the local palate.

Dessert

Banana Bread

Banana bread (or a banana cake) may not be the dessert that first comes to mind when you think of Central America, but it actually makes a lot of sense.

Belize grows a lot of bananas – usually for export – however, the ones that aren’t pretty enough for export get sold locally for cheap. And so the locals of course make dessert!

I don’t think I managed any pictures, although I did enjoy moist banana bread twice during my stay.

Chocolate

Chocolate-making is an old Mayan tradition in Belize. As I learned on my chocolate-making tour, Belizean chocolate actually comes from a different cacao plant than most or all the chocolate you’ve ever had.

I really enjoyed the local chocolate, as it is less bitter than your typical dark chocolate and has lots of flavors that come through as you chew. Honestly, with all the different aromatic notes, it felt like I was at a wine tasting, not a chocolate tasting!

Even if you don’t get to taste Belizean chocolate on a tour, there are plenty of local chocolates on sale, including at the airport.

Beverages

Fresh Juices

Especially at street food stands, you’ll see a pretty good list of fresh juices on order. Typically beverages are prepared in advance, and then ladled out of large containers for your drink.

One local option is called soursop, from the native fruit also known in Spanish as guanabana, and fortunately not sour at all. There are other seasonal fruit options, and frequently horchata, a Mexican rice-based beverage, is also available.

Belikin Beer

Belikin beer is considered one of Belize’s national treasures, and is the one beer you’ll see everywhere alcohol is served.

In fact, when you order, asking for a “Belikin” means their regular lager. While requesting “a Stout” undoubtedly results in a Belikin Stout being served to you. Their third variety is the Lighthouse, Belikin’s light beer.

The one thing that I had read before my trip and definitely noticed the first time I sipped a beer with dinner – bottles of Belikin beer are smaller than usual! Belikin bottles are around 280 mL, while a typical beer bottle is 330mL. So you may go through it quicker than you expect.

Local Rum

Belize is a country known for its sugarcane, so it also has lots of local rum producers. Its rum is used in lots of cocktails, and also treated as a sipping beverage, especially for the reserve rums or aged varieties.

The favorite rum that I tried was the Tiburon aged rum that had a lot of complexity, and I sipped it as an accompaniment with rice and beans.

The 3 things I didn’t taste

Fried Chicken

I think about fried chicken first as an American bar food, although there are many traditions around the world that include fried chicken (Korea comes to mind).

Coupled with fried food being typical in hot climates and the prevalence of hot sauce, there was quite a bit of fried chicken available in Belize.

I had intended to try fried chicken wings at a street vendor in San Ignacio my last night there, but had a late lunch that day and couldn’t muster up the appetite.

Lobster

Belize is famous for its lobster, although the season does not begin until June 15^th each year, so I was too early to enjoy this specialty.

I’m already thinking about a return trip to Belize, and if I do go again, I would definitely plan the timing to align with the many lobster festivals that take place along the coastal and island towns from mid to late June to celebrate the start of the season.

Cashew Wine

I love the taste of cashews, so I was very curious about cashew wine. Unfortunately, despite my best efforts, none of the local bars or restaurants I visited had it available by the glass.

And in duty free, the only bottle of cashew wine available was a gigantic 1-liter in size.

The best way to sample cashew wine as far as I can tell is to take a cooking class where it is served, or to go on a tour of locally produced food and drinks that includes a cashew wine tasting.

On the upside, I did get to try cashew fruit (pictured above) that was picked fresh from a tree when I was on a Chocolate-making and Waterfalls tour. It was a bit sweet and nutty, with very juicy flesh.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Just watch out if you get a fresh cashew fruit because while the fruit is delicious, the nut in the center is actually toxic until roasted.

Have you been to Belize? What were your favorite dishes that you ate there? Anything else I should add to my ‘Foodie Bucket List’?

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Bucket List Adventure: Volcano Boarding in Nicaragua

April 5, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists (as of December 2018). Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

“Lana?”

“Oh, hi dad.”

“Hi sweetie, I just wanted to call and make sure you were still alive. You know, because you said you were going to go volcano boarding in Nicaragua.”

“Yes, dad I’m fine.”

(That is pretty much our conversation verbatim after I got back. And my dad doesn’t even worry usually when I travel!)

Not only was I fine after my day volcano boarding in Nicaragua, this activity was one of the absolute highlights of my whole trip.

Yes, I knew I wanted to do this before I even went.

Yes, I knew that it was a possibly dangerous activity and to go you pretty much had to certify saying you had travel insurance before they’d sign you up. You know, just in case.

Yes, I was super excited to go anyway!

What is Volcano Boarding?

If you’ve never heard of volcano boarding, you may have all sorts of crazy images flowing through your mind right now.

First off, in order to board down the volcano, you have to reach the top. On Cerro Negro (black hill), where volcano boarding is in Nicaragua, it was about a 45-minute moderate hike to the summit. Then there was a bit of time to walk around, explore, and take photos before lining up to wait your turn to descend.

And of course anything you need at the top, including the board itself, was part of your pack as you climbed.

What goes up, must volcano board down. Maybe you’re picturing standing on a surfboard and headed down a volcano as the lava comes up behind you. Or someone flinging themselves face first like in the beloved winter sport known as skeleton. In reality though, volcano boarding in Nicaragua is somewhere between sledding and luge as you slide down the side of the volcano.

There is a rectangular board that you sit on to go down the side of the volcano feet-first. A rope handle comes up from the bottom of the board between your feet and a slippery surface mounted on part of the bottom of the board helps you glide over the gravelly side of the volcano.

After the 45-minute hike up, it’s about 2-3 minutes to volcano board down.

I know – who on earth thought up this crazy activity???

How did Volcano Boarding start anyway?

Volcano boarding overall basically started as an extreme form of snowboarding down an active volcano spewing lava back in 2002 in the Vanuatu islands. Around the same time, a mountain biker realized that he could achieve high speeds and set land records over gravel, and that the black volcanic gravel of Cerro Negro in Nicaragua was perfectly suited to the task.

A few speed records later, the mountain biker was in a full body cast and a whole bunch of people in Nicaragua were inspired to find a way down the side of this volcano. People used to carry mattresses or any other object they could think of to use as a surface for going down, but over time the object of choice has evolved into a wooden board with a built in handle and slippery formica bottom.

Unlike the Mount Yasur volcano in Vanuatu – which actively spews hot lava that has killed people – the Cerro Negro in Nicaragua is actively hot, but has not erupted since 1999, making it a draw for volcano boarding tourists ever since the sport’s inception. Standing at over 2,300 feet (700+ meters), it is also twice the height to travel down compared to Vanuatu, making for a longer trip volcano boarding down.

Although extreme sports enthusiasts will go volcano boarding anywhere they can, the only place in the world where it’s organized as a regular tourist activity is at Cerro Negro in Nicaragua. The tour runs pretty much every day, as long as there’s a minimum of two people to go (usually there are far more).

How to Volcano Board

Some people supposedly stand up on the board to try and snowboard down the side of the volcano (although I didn’t see any of the ~100 people there the day I went try this), but the most standard way to descend on the volcano board at Cerro Negro is to sit down, lean back and enjoy the ride.

The guide will demonstrate the proper position for descending – basically sit on the wooden bar and grab the rope – and then you can lean back to go faster or sit up to create more wind resistance that will slow you down. The heels of your feet are in the gravel on either side of the board and you push them downward as your brakes.

Everything you hiked up with is in a tote bag inside of your jumpsuit for safekeeping until you reach the bottom.

Simple enough, right?

What the Volcano Boarding Was Like

I had a blast! There was that rush of hiking to the top while taking in the beautiful views and then a bit of fear at the top taking the first look over the edge where volcano boarding takes place. Mine was actually in one of the first groups to the top, so at that point you were just gazing down the steep incline in anticipation, not actually seeing what it looked like as people did it yet.

As my heart raced in my chest and I felt the effects of the adrenaline coursing through my body, I tried to take deep breaths and mentally run through the different steps of the process as everyone lines up along the lanes spread a bit apart so boarders don’t collide. I wasn’t first in line, so I watched carefully the take off maneuver to pick up speed at the beginning and was mentally comparing how each person approached it.

I noticed the line of people dwindling ahead of me and got ready to perch myself on the board. The wooden bar is pretty little, so I took a second to adjust how I was sitting and perch my feet ready to take off. When the signal came that the coast was clear I had a moment to take one last breath before taking off.

At first, hurtling down the side of the volcano, my mind was racing. Noticing how it all felt, feeling the air rush by, making slight adjustments in my position to stay balanced.

Then my focus shifted to trying to go faster. I had lost some of the initial momentum getting caught up in the decently sized chunks of black volcanic gravel and shifted my body position to leaning far back and lifting my feet to minimize friction and pick up speed.

The second half of my run was even faster and I still mostly stayed balanced as I sped to the bottom and came to a slow stop and quickly jumped up and out of the way for the next person coming down the volcano.

It was such a rush to go volcano boarding, and the whole time it felt so surreal to be able to do such a cool activity. On an active volcano, no less!

Choosing a Volcano Boarding Tour

There are two main tour operators that will take you volcano boarding from the town of León, Nicaragua – Bigfoot Hostels and Quetzaltrekkers. Volcano boarding with either costs around US$30.

From the research I did in advance, there were a few key differences that led me to choose Quetzaltrekkers:

They let you volcano board twice!
They are a non-profit supporting local charities in Nicaragua.
Bigfoot tracks everyone’s speed down the volcano with a radar gun.

I didn’t want to feel the pressure to go faster than I thought was safe or found comfortable, or to be in an environment that focused on speed (and I definitely wanted to go twice). So between not wanting to go with Bigfoot Hostels for that reason and actively choosing to support local charities, Quetzaltrekkers was the right choice for me. If you go volcano boarding, choose the tour operator that works best for you.

Bigfoot Hostels and Quetzaltrekkers were definitely not the only tour providers. I saw plenty of signs advertising volcano boarding around the city of León, where most are based. However, for doing an extreme sport, I opt to go for a very experienced provider. It is my safety after all.

Who can go

There was a lot of diversity in the fairly large group the day I went. Many people were backpackers in their 20s or 30s, but there was also one family with two 8-12 year old children, a backpacker with his mother probably in her 50s, and several older couples who liked travel and adventure.

So basically, travel boarding is for nearly everyone!

What will be provided

Obviously this varies from tour operator to tour operator, so be sure to double-check that you have the correct information when you book volcano boarding. What is listed here is for the Quetzaltrekkers tour I went on.

The guide that will lead the way up the path to the top of Cerro Negro, explain a bit about the volcano range, and also demonstrate the proper technique and safety measures for volcano boarding down. My group was large so there was someone signaling at the top when it was time for the next person to descend and another guide partway down the volcano taking photos of everyone, which was later shared via their Facebook page.

In addition to a trained guide and a photo to make all your friends jealous, Quetzaltrekkers will provide for you:

a volcano board
a tote bag/backpack to hold any items you need on the way
1 large bottle of water
a jumpsuit
gloves
goggles
lunch afterward
a free t-shirt as a souvenir

What You Need to Bring Volcano Boarding

Honestly, you’re hiking up with a bit of extra weight from the supplies and the board itself, so there’s probably not much else you’ll want to bring with you.

The essentials:

A bandana (or t-shirt) to cover your nose and mouth as you go down. There is a ton of dust and gravel that gets kicked up that you want protection from.
Wear decent closed-toed shoes, since the shoes you wear are your brakes coming down.
Phone/Camera/GoPro or whatever device you want to use to record the experience.

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Is Volcano Boarding Safe?

I found volcano boarding in Nicaragua to be safer than it looks (or sounds). First, you control your own speed by your body position and braking with your feet, so your safety is essentially up to you. Which is basically what the tour disclaimer statements say, too.

Going down the side of the volcano, there are essentially multiple lanes down, which have been worn already and keep you on a path for the most part. You’re unlikely to veer or the path, and even more unlikely to collide with another boarder as you descend.

Between deliberately going slow or encountering friction on the way down, most people were not going terribly fast. The worst I saw was someone falling slightly sideways off the board, and then being able to immediately get back on and continue the rest of the way down. And the bottom of the volcano slowly levels off, so there is a natural arc that will slowly bring each volcano boarder to an eventual stop at the end of the run.

That said, for the occasional person who even begins to approach the top recorded speed of 97 km/hour (60 mph), there is definitely the possibility of more serious injury, which is not to be taken lightly.

But if you follow the safety guidelines, I would expect that volcano boarding is no more dangerous than other sports you’ve tried anywhere else.

What Wasn’t Scary

The volcano boarding itself. It was actually hard to go fast! Even with the bottom sanded smooth, there is quite a lot of friction between the board and the gravel. Plus your feet were in the gravel as well. Since you control your speed by sitting up to slow down (and can brake anytime you want with your feet) you won’t go any faster than you’re comfortable with.

Being on an active volcano. Toting a volcano board is actually one of the safest ways to hike an active volcano. If anything goes wrong, you are already hiking with the fastest way to get to the bottom of the volcano and away to safety – sliding down on the volcano board!

What Was Scary

How windy the hike was. Pretty much every account I’ve read of volcano boarding in Nicaragua mentions how windy it is. And nearly every video you watch of volcano boarding has the wind whistling in the background (mine included – see above).

When you get to the top and are traversing the ridge to get to the volcano boarding area, the giant volcano board you’re carrying often catches the wind like a sail and the gusts can be so strong you’re really digging your feet into the gravel with your leg muscles to not get blown away.

At this point, some people started to carry their boards vertically in their hands to not catch the wind – it really felt strong enough to blow you off the top of the volcano. Not to worry though, we all made it there safely.

Standing at the top looking over the edge. I didn’t start skiing until my late 20s and I still get a bit of fear in me when I glance over the edge of a steep ski slope. Standing at the top of the volcano boarding area looking down was the same sort of feeling for me. Then I realized I’d be sitting down and it all seemed way more approachable. Plus, it’s those butterflies inside that tell me I’m on an adventure =)

Why the Hike Alone Was Worth It

If someone had said, “hey, there’s a beautiful hike up an active volcano with lovely views,” I would have said “yes” in a heartbeat. The fact that this scenic hike just happens to be the way up to the volcano boarding area was a bonus for me.

There are plenty of volcanoes in a row to explore (this is on the volcano ‘Ring of Fire’ after all), and hiking up Cerro Negro you get a view of much of the nearby volcano range. In fact, some people who arrived with me and the Quetzaltrekkers group were beginning an extended trek and overnight stay in the area. The El Hoyo 2-day trek is on option to book along with your volcano boarding, or you can always opt just for the hike and overnight trip without volcano boarding if you wish.

The hike up Cerro Negro itself fell somewhere in easy to moderate difficulty. The only struggle for me besides the wind (see ‘What Was Scary’ above) was that it was not so comfortable hiking with the board between the backpack and your back. Plus, mine kept sliding off-balance and needing to be readjusted. (Although really, a small inconvenience for the fun of volcano boarding.)

And despite my visits to many volcanoes during my time in Nicaragua – including several other active ones – the hike up Cerro Negro was the only part of my volcano exploring in Nicaragua when I got to touch the hot sand and feel the warmth of the volcano coming up through the ground.

The initial hike up actually took a bit of time because the views were so incredible that we all kept stopping to take pictures and video. I would have done the hike even if there wasn’t the option to volcano board down, although that was definitely a great excuse to see this part of the volcano range.

Would I Go Again?

I already did! One of the reasons I chose to do the tour with Quetzaltrekkers was for the opportunity to do it all a second time that same day.

As far as I know, they are the only provider to offer that option, so if you’re thinking about going twice, be sure to book with them. Apparently my experience the day I went is similar to every day when the run the tour – most people say they will go a second time, and then almost no one does!

In my group of ~40 people, only 8 of us (6 men, plus me and 1 other woman) opted to go a second time. I think most people didn’t want to do the hike again to arrive at the top.

Since there were just a few of us going again, we were able to swap out our jumpsuits (mine was very large for my first run) and also to switch boards to one of the lesser damaged ones. I didn’t realize how mangled the board gets going down just once.

→ Because the boards all get damaged the first trip down the volcano, it turns out to be a lot harder to go fast on the second run!

I thought I was being clever to try and go moderately fast the first run and really let loose with my speed the second time once I got the hang of it, but I should have just thrown caution to the wind at the beginning when my board was fresh. If you do opt to go a second time, any experience you’ve gained will probably be outweighed by the degradation of the board you’re using. But it’s still fun.

The second trip overall is definitely quicker than the first round of volcano boarding, though. The hike actually takes less time since there is less picture-taking on the way. The slowest hikers in the group typically don’t opt to go up again. And there are much fewer people.

I was glad I went. And went again.

Would you ever go volcano boarding? Anything you’d still like to know after reading this post? What’s the craziest activity you’ve ever done in your travels? (Let me know, I might have to do it next.) Share away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Note: This post was not sponsored in any way. I just had a great time volcano boarding with Quetzaltrekkers and was happy to put my money toward a good cause and do my tour with them for the reasons above. My opinions, as always, are entirely my own.

Top 13 Reasons to Make Nicaragua Your Next Tropical Destination

January 30, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

I honestly didn’t know a ton about Nicaragua before my recent 9-day trip besides there being warm weather and beaches, the perfect combination for a winter getaway.

Nicaragua wowed me on so many other levels, though, with lots of outdoor adventures and some of the nicest people you’ll ever meet.

More than other destinations I’ve visited recently (including others in Central America, like Belize), friends and colleagues warned me to “Stay safe!” and “Watch out for Sandinistas!”

Like with much of the travel I’ve done though, the reality on the ground is quite different from those pre-conceived notions. Of course, use common sense like you would even in your home city – don’t wander aimlessly with all your luggage or intoxicated late at night – but beyond that your safety is not something to actively worry about.

As I was told numerous times during my trip, Nicaragua is the safest country in Central America.

Which was great, because it meant that I could relax, let my guard down (mostly), and soak up all of the culture and beautiful natural surroundings.

Here are the highlights of my time in Nicaragua, the top 13 reasons that you should head there next:

#1 | Sunsets

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jan 22, 2018 at 5:44am PST

Go outside of rainy season (which runs from May until November) and there is no shortage of great places to watch the sun set. You’ll get a show of lovely pink and orange hues every night, with the color changes lasting a half hour or more. It’s great to watch sunset from wherever you are – whether over the water on Nicaragua’s lakes and beaches or atop one of the great viewpoints in the cities.

#2 | Colonial Architecture

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jan 19, 2018 at 10:49am PST

The main cities of Nicaragua were founded by Spanish explorers in the early 1500s, and it shows. Spanish influence is apparent in the red tile roofs, interior courtyards, and covered walkways you’ll see all around. Buildings also have incredible architectural details in the woodwork and designs that have been preserved throughout the centuries. You’ll get an even better sense of it all with the many towers or roofs to climb for sweeping views of surrounding city and almost always, volcanoes in the distance.

#3 | Volcanoes for Days

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jan 15, 2018 at 6:41am PST

Yup, Nicaragua lies right on a fault line between tectonic plates along the Pacific Ocean’s ‘Ring of Fire’ and there are loads of volcanoes to explore and ways to enjoy them. During my visit I hiked Volcán Maderas, peered at the bubbling lava of Volcán Masaya at night, and boarded down Cerro Negro – all standout activities from my time there! There are also plenty of other hiking and camping opportunities at Nicaragua’s volcanoes, including the opportunity to watch sunrise or sunset (or both!) from the slopes of a volcano.

#4 | Natural Springs

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jan 24, 2018 at 9:21am PST

The water of Nicaragua’s many lakes doesn’t always look inviting, but fortunately there are plenty of natural springs for some pristine swimming. Close to the city of Granada, I spent a leisurely day at the Laguna de Apoyo, a crater lake at the site of an extinct volcano where you can swim and relax as waves lap the shores. On the island of Ometepe, there is the Ojo de Agua, a spring that is fed by an underground river from a nearby volcano. Although these are not hot springs, the water is said to possess the same healing properties.

#5 | Bright Colors

Granada in particular rivals Burano Island in Venice, Italy in terms of the bright and varied colors you’ll see street after street, block after block. It’s something I’ve noticed throughout my Central American travels, but especially in Nicaragua from iconic bright yellow churches to hues of turquoise and magenta on residential homes and local businesses.

#6 | Wildlife

There are plenty of nature preserves in Nicaragua where you can see large mammals like jaguars and cougars, but you’re also likely to encounter quite a bit of wildlife just walking around. Some of my sightings were on hikes in nature, but my best monkey encounter was along a paved road. In addition to the monkeys, I also spotted many cows and horses and donkeys, bluebirds and parrots, and an armadillo.

#7 | Street Art

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jan 25, 2018 at 5:14am PST

Nicaraguans have a pretty dramatic history, and this is reflected in the wide variety of scenes you’ll see depicted in various murals, mostly in the cities. There was a mix of narrative scenes and political statements, all in bright colors to catch your eye walking around. For me, it was a great way to understand a bit more about the Nicaraguan people and mindset.

#8 | People

Nicaraguans are so nice and helpful to tourists, even if you don’t speak any Spanish. I had wonderful encounters with locals myself and also heard many stories from fellow travelers like one who ran out of gas on a motorcycle in a rural area and managed with hand gestures to get directions to the local spot to buy emergency fuel by the liter. Especially as a solo traveler, I appreciated the warm welcome I received everywhere I visited.

#9 | Delicious Food & Drink

Food in Nicaragua consists of some Latin American staples like rice and beans and plantains, mixed in with some specialties specific to Nicaragua. Cuajada is a locally-made cheese you’ll find as part of most typical breakfasts, either served fresh or pan-fried like you would do with Greek haloumi cheese. Quesillos are probably the most common street food, and is like a vertical version of a Salvadorean pupusa with a thicker cheese and liquidy crema along with pickled onions inside a tortilla. And if you can find it, there is a special flavor to the pelibuey type of goat that thrives in hot climates. All this can be washed down from the ubiquitous batidos (fruit shakes) or an ice-cold Toña or Victoria, the local beer options.

#10 | It’s Cheap!

Many people commented to me that Nicaragua is like what Costa Rica was ten years ago, and I can’t disagree. It’s just starting to see an uptick in tourism, which will likely lead to higher prices down the road, but for now Nicaragua is eminently affordable. Staying at a top-tier hotel was around US $100 per night, while I stayed in comfortable accommodations with hot showers and a pool for a mere $30/night in the cities. And food is quite inexpensive, with most meals costing between $1 and $3 at local comedores, and not much more than $10-15 at upscale spots.

#11 | Coffee

There is a rich flavor to Nicaraguan coffee, grown in local volcanic soil. You’ll find good coffee everywhere, including espresso and espresso-based drinks like the Spanish cortado or cortadito, with just a touch of warm milk. Several coffee plantations are open to visitors, including tours of the property and demonstrations of the coffee-making process. Even if you’re not a coffee lover like I am, it’s a wonderful window into local production, with more land area in Nicaragua devoted to growing coffee than any other crop.

#12 | Beautiful Beaches

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jan 20, 2018 at 6:56am PST

With long stretches of both Caribbean and Pacific coastline, there is a beach for everyone in Nicaragua. From surfing meccas to protected enclaves to plenty of islands, isletas, and cayes, you can find the right size wave to match your picture of paradise. And even on some of the more popular beaches, you don’t have to stroll far to have a stretch of sand all to yourself. And if you’d like luxury – even for a night or two – there are plenty of luxury resorts out there.

#13 | Adventure Around Every Corner

Nicaragua is probably best known on the adventure front for its world-class surfing along the Pacific coast, with Las Salinas making it on the National Geographic list of the World’s 20 Best Surf Towns. The adventures don’t stop there. From horseback riding to canyoning adventures that several fellow travelers raved about.

Have you ever been to Nicaragua? What else is on your list of top reasons to go? Anything else you’d want to know before visiting? Share away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Top Travel Destinations of 2019

January 8, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Happy new year!

This year is starting off in an unusual way for me – it’s January and other than a weekend trip by train to New York City, I don’t have a single trip planned yet.

Which means I’m in as much a need of some travel direction as everyone else who hasn’t made any big travel plans for the year ahead.

For my top travel destinations to recommend for 2019, I’ve included a mix of locations hosting special events worth seeking out and also some new, not-too-overrun spots to check out. My past lists have mostly focused on countries, but this year’s list has a few specific cities and sites as well.

And for the first time, it’s divided into sections: New Recommendations for 2019 & Previous Recommendations I’m Highlighting. With some great spots I’ve never featured before and also some previous destinations that are especially great to consider this year.

Without further ado, I present – in alphabetical order – this year’s top 6 new travel picks:

Berlin (Germany)

If you’ve never been to Berlin, the first image of the city that may come to mind is a view of the wall coming down. Which is exactly what the city commemorates this year – the 30^th anniversary of reunification. The Berlin Wall did not fall until November of 1989, however there will be a lot of special exhibits and events throughout the entirety of 2019.

Even separate from the historical significance this year, Berlin is such a cosmopolitan city that it is a great destination anytime.

While plenty of museums focus on the Wall, there is a wealth of other museums like you’d find in any other capital. Excellent food options abound, including many ethnic restaurants, and like any good German city, there is a great beer. Oh, and as you’ll see in the Cheat Sheet below, no shortage of beautiful rooftop views of the metropolis.

READ MORE: Berlin Cheat Sheet

Cambodia

Cambodia is best known for the Angkor Wat temple complexes, which was the main draw when I visited. For me it was one of those places (like Petra in Jordan) that really exceeded expectations. Don’t shortchange yourself and plan to spend at least 2-3 days there exploring, including areas outside of town and closer to nature like Kbal Spean. Plus, the town of Siem Reap keeps developing, with more options every year for exploring local culture and sampling traditional Cambodian cuisine.

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Of course, Cambodia has a lot more to offer beyond its most famous attraction, with plenty of notable cities, beaches, nature, and wildlife areas throughout the country. As most of the tourism centers on Angkor Wat and Siem Reap, you’ll have more relaxed experiences in capital Phnom Penh, in smaller towns, and along most of its coastline.

Chile

Did you miss the total solar eclipse in the US in 2017? I saw the partial eclipse from the roof of my office building, but after hearing others’ accounts of witnessing the complete darkness (or totality), I definitely want to see that for myself. In July of 2019, there is another total solar eclipse coming this time to South America, and many consider Chile to be the best viewing spot. If you’d like to go, now is the time to plan for it.

Georgia

The country of Georgia is probably the item that has been highest on my bucket list for the longest, without me actually having visited yet. So, why go? Like many former Soviet republics, a lot of its wonders were hidden from most of the world during the second half of the twentieth century, but there is so much to entice tourists to this nation bordering the Black Sea.

Georgia has an 8,000 year (!!) history of winemaking, the longest of any country. Once known as the “Tuscany of the Soviet Union,” for decades Russia was Georgia’s main wine consumer, but in recent decades since the break up of the Soviet Union, its wine is more readily available to everyone else. There are incredible monasteries to check out, many of which also produce wine. And like any good wine culture, the food is also amazing.

Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC

I recently enjoyed Georgian food and wine at a local restaurant, and I’m even more obsessed than before!

Norway

Even if you’ve never been to Norway, you’ve probably heard about its dramatic fjords and natural beauty. Sure, you can be a tourist and stick to the cities, but this really is a destination suited to a traveler who enjoys the great outdoors. In summer, boat cruises in the fjords abound. On land, whether its taking a funicular up to enjoy some sweeping views, or hiking up to the same spot, it is stunningly beautiful to take in. In winter, there is snowy exploring, from seeing polar bears in the wild to a chance at viewing the Northern Lights.

Like the rest of Scandinavia, Norway is probably a bit pricey compared to where you currently live, however if you’re planning on a lot of hiking your costs can be kept pretty reasonable. Plus, there are many discount air carriers that go, so transport costs can be quite affordable as well.

The up side of Norway for tourists – like any Scandinavian destination – is that the country is quite safe and English is widely spoken.

The biggest surprise for me on my recent visit was the food. There are the fun, heart-shaped Norwegian waffles and some upscale, Michelin-starred options in the major cities, especially the nature-adjacent oil city of Stavanger.

TIP! Just be conscious of the seasons when you plan your trip, as the warm period is pretty limited to June-August, depending on where exactly in Norway you’re headed.

(Any City) USA

It used to be that America’s smaller cities did not have much to offer the well-traveled visitor, but I’ve noticed quite a change in recent years. With restaurant trends toward locally-inspired products and more and more people identifying as “foodies,” even off-the-beaten-path cities can be excellent travel destinations with ample delicious dining options for a weekend of exploring.

I’ve been pleasantly surprised myself in places like…

Boise, Idaho

Charlottesville, Virginia

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Detroit, Michigan

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I hear great things about…

Asheville, North Carolina
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

And there are plenty of other American cities out there with increasingly more to offer any tourist, and I always find it fun to explore places before they become too popular with other travelers.

This year’s list of new spots is shorter than in previous years, but that’s because so many of my past recommendations are still so timely.

Here are 5 of the destinations I’ve featured previously that are also excellent choices for 2019 travel:

Australia

This country/continent has been a great value destination recently and is even more so for the coming year. There has been a recent further dip in currency, which is bad for my bank account, but great value for travelers who’ve been hesitant about visiting due to cost.

Belize

This Central American gem from the 2018 list continues to be one of the safest and easiest (English-speaking!) travel options in that part of the world.

READ MORE: Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

Liechtenstein

This micro-nation (from the 2017 list) is celebrating its tricentennial – its 300^th anniversary! – this year and will also have a host of special events taking place like some of the other destinations above. It’s an easy add-on if you’re already planning to visit Innsbruck (Austria), Munich (Germany), or Zurich (Switzerland).

Oman

This is another 2017 list pick that is already popping up on many other travel lists this year and continues to be a hot spot for discovering an authentic slice of the Middle East.

READ MORE: Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

Plovdiv (Bulgaria)

Bulgaria made my 2017 list of Top Travel Destinations, and it’s making a return appearance because my favorite city there, Plovdiv, has been designated a 2019 European Capital of Culture. Not only is it an ancient Roman city with plenty of ruins to explore, food in Plovdiv is delicious, and some of Bulgaria’s excellent wine country is nearby. Take advantage of the area especially catering to tourists and providing countless special events by visiting this year.

READ MORE: Best Light Shows Around the World

Certainly there is no shortage of amazing destinations to seek out, regardless of what kind of trip you’re after. What I find to be the most important thing is to make a plan for a year of travel early on, so the months don’t slip by without taking a trip.

Get inspired. And then get out there!

See all of my past annual travel destination recommendations here:

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

I still stand by them all.

Happy travels in the new year, everyone!!

What destinations are inspiring you for 2019 travel? Anywhere I missed that would be a great destination this year? What travel do you already have planned for 2019? Let me know more in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Fun Facts: Things to Know about Belize Before You Visit

September 1, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Usually I’m a planner. I learn about a new city or an event happening in a country I’ve never been, and add it to my Bucket List for a future visit.

In the case of Belize, I had overlooked it during my Solo Trip to Mexico in 2009 since it was a bit outside of my backpacker budget to do a quick trip there and back from the Yucatan. And I hadn’t really thought about it much since then until I was starting a new board on Pinterest and was intrigued by all of the outdoor adventure activities and beautiful beaches.

So when I had a week open up in May for a trip, I ignored the budget flights to Iceland and Europe and impulsively went in a new direction – Belize!

I only booked my flights two weeks in advance, so it was a bit of scramble to get things planned for my time there and I didn’t have the opportunity to do my typical advance reading to prepare for a trip. Which made the trip even more exciting as I discovered all of these quirks and local sayings and particular history of the region.

Here’s what I discovered:

Belizeans sure love their flag. You’ll see it proudly displayed pretty much everywhere you go.

And Jesus, too. Not only are Christian religious symbols prominently displayed outside homes and businesses, but there are also large signs with the ten commandments written out that you’ll also see in a lot of different spots around the country.

Bus Stations really are an incredible crossroads…

In Belize, the bus station accepted 4 types of currency! To be fair, both the Belizean dollar and US dollar can be used to pay for anything around the country, but you can also use Mexican and Guatemalan currency there if you need to.

Even the bus station vendors have hot sauce available. It really is the universal condiment around Belize, but I was still amazed at its presence next to the pre-cooked food already divided into different take away baggies.

Everyone can tell you where and when next bus is leaving. There was no information booth that I saw (although any tourist office can help with bus schedules). But equally reliable? Asking any Belizean hanging out at the bus stop when the next bus will be. They’ll give you times, tell you whether it’s local or express, how much it will costs, & which area it leaves from. Just incredible!

It’s a small enough country to have some national standards…

Like Marie Sharp’s hot sauce. Marie started her company in Belize back in the early 1980s and she has already been inducted into the Hot Sauce Hall of Fame. And it is her Belizean brand that is the standard that you will see at street food stands and on restaurant tables – unless there is a homemade version.

Or Belikin, Belize’s national beer. If you ask for a “beer,” you’ll get the Belikin standard brew. If you ask for a “stout” or a “lager” you’ll get the Belikin version of those styles. Any other beer you must ask for by name.

Beers are smaller! You’ll notice that Belikin beer comes in 250 mL bottles, which is just small enough compared to the standard 330 mL bottle of beer that you will notice the difference!

You might experience a 4-bath day when you go. If you’ve ever heard of the expression (or musical band) ‘three dog night,’ this is a similar notion. A three dog night refers to a cold night out in the Australian outback, when you have to cuddle up with 3 dingoes (the dogs) to stay warm. A 4-bath day in Belize . . . that’s a hot and sweaty one.

Houses are colorful. There is something about the tropics that lends itself to brightly colored houses. You’ll see plenty of these around Belize, including many in a shade I started calling ‘Belizean blue’ because you’ll see that exact shade in so many places.

Buses are the way to go for some local flavor . . .
Repurposed American schoolbuses are the main mode of transportation. Different companies may paint the outside in different colors, but the inside is the same school bus with benches set up you may know from your childhood. And just like back then, the seats get sticky in the heat and there is no air conditioning. But it’s definitely the most affordable way to travel Belize while getting a taste for how the locals live.

And they’ll play music very loudly. Buses may be the cheapest way to get around, but they’re certainly not the most serene. Most of the ones I traveled on had upbeat music playing quite loudly for most or all of the ride. I wasn’t sure if this was a strategy to keep people happy and quiet, but that certainly seemed to be the effect.

Non-express buses will stop at pretty much any point along the route. This is a great convenience for anyone who lives off-the-beaten-path, but you can imagine how much time all of these stops will add on to your trip. There’s a reason the express buses are a bit pricier.

Some unexpected foods you’ll find everywhere. There are Caribbean and Latin American specialties and their variations, but there’s also an abundance of banana bread and fried chicken. Who knew?

But in general you’ll find the best local specialties at street food stands. Whether it’s seeking out the best rice and beans (look for a giant pot) or getting salbutes fried to order, the flavors you get at the street food stands outpace any brick-and-mortar restaurant I visited.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

Expect that you’ll frequently be all by yourself with relics. Sure, there was someone staffing the booth when you bought your admission ticket to the museum or archaeological site. But chances are that as you explore the rooms with the priceless artifacts, or even the pyramids, you’ll be all on your own.

And that there’ll be almost no safety measures for climbing all those Mayan pyramids. I scaled my fair share of pyramids during my week-plus in country, and there were very few handrails or markers for dangerous sections or to prevent you from falling off the top. A local shared that the vast ruins of Xunatunich only had railings put in just last year – and only 2 of them across a huge area! Tread carefully.

Belizeans are genuinely friendly. They’ll chat you up on the street and then share their favorite local spot for a meal. Not for a monetary tip, but just to welcome you to their beautiful country.

Simone Biles is the most beloved athlete. Maybe it was my visiting within a year of the Rio Olympics, but although there are Belizeans who have somewhat “made it” in professional sports, American gymnast Simone Biles (who is of Belizean descent) is the true star if you ask any local.

Belize City is not the capital. I guess I spent my childhood gazing longingly at an outdated globe, because even though the capital city shifted to centrally-located Belmopan back in 1970, I had it in my head that it was Belize City until my visit. Oops.

Cemeteries have above-ground coffins. Like many of the houses and buildings in Belize, cemeteries are colorful places. And instead of burying the dead, I saw plots with elevated coffins where relatives come to pay their respects.

English reigns supreme . . .
More currency with Queen Elizabeth. If you travel a lot, you’ve probably seen her face on quite a lot of currency by now. Formerly known as British Honduras, Belize is still part of the British Commonwealth.

It’s not just lip service though, the Queen came for a visit! Queen Elizabeth II has visited Belize twice – one in the mid-1980s, another time in the mid-1990s. Of course, the part of her visit that people referenced the most during my trip was when she ate a local rodent whose meat is considered a delicacy, the gibnut, now also nicknamed the ‘Royal Rat.’

Everyone speaks English and takes US dollars. I feel like some travelers harbor fear of foreign countries due to the language barrier. Perhaps a fear of not being able to make yourself understood? In any case, there’s no need to worry in Belize as everyone speaks English. And you can pay with US dollars anywhere, even in small towns or on local buses (although you’ll often get change in BZD, with 2 Belize dollars equaling $1).

Visitors Centers are mostly in English. Although there are quite a lot of Spanish speakers around, interestingly the Visitors Centers I popped into seemed to cater exclusively to English speakers. That said, they were quite helpful.

Some expected groups….
Maya tribes still exist. For some reason I always lumped the Maya in my head with the now-extinct Aztec and Inca Empires. However while the Maya experienced a decline, their culture and traditions continue on across Belize and some nearby countries. I got my most personal experience on a tour of a Mayan chocolate producer, carrying on the traditions of many centuries ago.

And some unexpected ones…
The Chinese. Originally brought to Belize from China as laborers, many of those original Chinese stayed. Today there is also a more recent influx of Chinese looking to build businesses and wealth, or to use Belize as a stepping stone for ultimate relocation to the United States.

Mennonites. It was a surprise when I spotted my first Mennonite family in Belize – the wife in a bonnet and long dress & the husband in denim overalls with a wide-brimmed straw hat. Just like in other places, they also shun technology in Belize and focus on hard work and farming the land.

Belize has the lowest population density in Central America. There are a lot of natural reserves and open, lush swaths of green as you make your way across the country. Enjoy!

And it’s a peace-loving country, one of the few in the region that has not had a civil war. You may associate Central America with some violent conflicts, but it is a point of pride in Belize that handover of power has been a peaceful affair.

Belize also boasts the second-largest barrier reef in the world, after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. The reef system is just off the coast along most of the country, and is so lengthy that even Charles Darwin was impressed. Opportunities to snorkel and scuba dive abound.

Like anywhere I’ve ever visited, Belize has a bunch of quirks that come with any country, along with some pretty impressive products and traditions and diversity for such a small nation.

But Belize also had so many things that surprised me along the way – I was already jotting down some observations on my first taxi ride from the airport to the bus station!

What’s the most interesting thing you learned about a place while visiting? Anything else you discovered about Belize if you’ve traveled there? Or anything else you’d like to know before you go? Share away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave, a Mayan Archaeological Wonder

July 11, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

I’m in a cave mostly engulfed in darkness, swimming. The water is cool, but I’ve just nearly become acclimated to the chill. I’ve hit a rhythm with my strokes, despite being in clothes and shoes as I chug along, weighed down ever so slightly.

And then I see it. An outcropping of rock nearly touching the surface of the water, not leaving much space to squeeze through with my head above water. I’m petite, so I feel like I can turn myself sideways and lift my chin, and just make my way through.

Until I remember that I’m wearing a helmet with a protruding headlamp. There’s no way I’ll fit in the tiny gap of air with my head above water.

So I take a deep inhale, dive head-first under the water and give a sharp kick to propel myself forward, trusting on sheer faith that I’ll emerge at the surface on the other side, to take another breath.

For some, I might have described your worst nightmare, however in Belize it is just another routine day exploring the ATM Cave. And while I really didn’t have much of an idea exactly what I was signing up for, there is such rich history and adventure that when I’ve encountered other travelers who have been to Belize, inevitably they all ask, “Did you make it to the ATM Cave?”

Signing Up for the ATM Cave Tour

San Ignacio, a Belizean town in the west of the country, close to the Guatemalan border, was my first stop when I arrived in Belize and served as a home base for my first five nights. Arriving mid-afternoon, I strolled around town to get my bearings, scope out nearby restaurants, and speak to a few tour providers about options for the next day.

Everyone I spoke with said the same thing when asked which day trip was best: an excursion to the ATM Cave. As a solo traveler, and with most tours having a 2-person minimum, I was limited to tours that others had already reserved. But fortunately there is one tour that nearly every provider runs daily – the one to the ATM Cave.

Don’t confuse ATM with that darling machine that dispenses cash, in this case it stands for the Mayan name of the archaeological burial site, Achtun Tunichil Muknal. Let’s just say that I was pretty convinced by this point, and signed up for an all-day tour departing the next morning.

When you go, I can’t recommend Francisco of Mayawalk Tours enough for a visit to the ATM Cave, be sure you visit with him! (Not sponsored, he is just really fabulous.)

Other than what to pack, I didn’t really ask many questions, and in my head simply expected it to be like other caving and spelunking I’ve done.

I knew my shoes would get wet (or I had the option of borrowing enclosed water shoes), to wear a bathing suit, & to bring a change of clothes, which all sounded to me like pretty standard for a caving trip that would involve some water. I had been in the water and mud in caves before, from my muddy experience on the spelunking tour of the Grotte di Frasassi in Le Marche, Italy and the occasional swimming section during a 7km underground tour of the Paradise Cave in Vietnam.

How different could this be?

Getting to the ATM Cave Entrance

Once the van arrives in the parking area just under an hour from San Ignacio, everyone off-loads and gets their gear together, as well as setting aside all valuables, phones, and cameras to be locked in the vehicle and left behind, watched by the driver. I got one last photo here at the entrance to the trail before parting ways with my technology:

On the way to the drop-off spot though, the van had to cross a not inconsequential puddle mini-lake on the way – which should have been the first sign of what was to come. We hadn’t even arrived at the entrance, and already we were fording a decently-sized body of water.

Yes, I had been caving before. Yes, I knew there would be at least some swimming inside of the cave. But no, I did not realize exactly how much swimming would be involved even on the hike to get to the cave entrance!

Like several places in Belize, tour guides are required to enter the ATM Cave, so I fell in line with my guide and the rest of the group from the drop off point, and we started making our way to the cave. Within the first 10 minutes, the level of swimming started to become clear as we strolled up to a lake with a flimsy rope strung across.

I confidently started taking steps to walk through the water, straining my arm muscles to keep my water container lifted above the water’s surface. About a third of the way across, it became clear that this was a fool’s errand as my feet squished ever deeper into the mud at the bottom with each step and the chilly water continued to rise, soaking my bathing suit and clothes. I know when it’s time to surrender so I gave in and started to swim (fortunately with my impeccably sealed water bladder!) as the water bladder and the bag I was carrying it in became almost completely submerged.

Of course, as you pick up the trail on the far side of the water, you have just enough time to air dry in the tropical heat before you encounter – yep, you guessed it – the next section of water to cross. On the 40-minute hike from the parking area to the entrance, I definitely got my first taste of just how water-intensive my day at the ATM Cave would be.

Fortunately, right before the cave entrance there is a final pit stop (a few good looking trees, essentially) and hooks where you can leave your water bottle due to some of the tight spaces inside the cave. There’s one last preparation of getting a helmet with headlamp for the cave interior, and then off you go a tiny bit further on the path and down the steps toward the entrance.

And this is where the van experience – or at least the swimming sections along the approach where I emerged sopping wet – should have foreshadowed what comes next. How do you enter the cave? By swimming in, of course!

Inside the ATM Cave

So what’s with all this swimming, anyway? There are a lot of sections of the cave to explore. Some, like the ATM Cave entrance, are areas where you’ll swim. Others you’re merely wading in ankle-deep sections. And occasionally, as I mentioned at the beginning of the post, you’re up against a section that’s a tight squeeze and you plunge underwater between the rocks to get to the next section.

One of the things I didn’t expect? The water was chilly! And you’ll air dry in parts of the cave, which for me always made the next plunge into water requiring just a little bit more will power to enter. But what I love about travel is how it makes you push yourself to your limits – with the right motivation, of course.

Inside the long, meandering land and water pathway of the cave, there are rock surfaces etched out over thousands of years stretching up on either side. There are the typical stalactites and stalagmites you probably learned about in school, plus various other cave features like columns where the two have met each other and resemble a rippled tree trunk.

The ATM Cave is principally formed from limestone, so there are porous sections of the rock. Over time, as the water has forced its way through the nooks and crannies of the rock, the cave includes small sections and huge caverns depending on the water’s meandering path.

And the rock itself, beyond its growth and erosion over time, has a colorful story to tell. Throughout the journey we observed sparkling quartz, yellow sulfur deposits, shining black manganese, and distinctive swaths of red iron.

The retelling of the cave’s history and discovery weaves in with the different sections of the path through the cave, with areas where the light streamed in from overhead and other parts completely submerged in darkness and only illuminated by the glow of the headlamp.

The main attraction is an elevated section that boasts the Mayan relics and archaeological remains. Of course, the reward of experiencing this section of cave is only attained after overcoming a small trial.

There is a hill-shaped rock with different ridges, about 10 feet (or 3 meters) tall that you must climb to reach the coveted upper section of cave. I am an experienced rock climber, so this part was a breeze for me. But even with the wide range of ages and ability levels in my group, with a bit of coaching by our guide Francisco, we all made it to the top.

This is where you know the Belizeans are serious about preservation – everyone, guides included, toss their shoes by the wayside and proceed only with a pair of socks on to not cause too much damage to the site. There is a marked off path through the center, and wonders jutting out on either side.

What most people know about the ATM Cave is that it was the burial site (or relocation site) for Mayan skeletons over 1,000 years old. They are positioned in several different parts of this elevated section. Some skeletons are only partially exposed, with a part of a skull or fragment of bone protruding from the rock. You’ll pass small skeletons presumably of children and others that match with the small stature of a Mayan adult.

You’ll see the skull over a millenium old that was crushed by a tourist’s camera back in 2012, prompting the photography ban. And you’ll see what many consider the absolute highlight of a visit to the ATM cave, the “Crystal Maiden.”

It is definitely a young skeleton, and was thought for many years to be female, hence its name. Now it is believed that it might instead be a teenage male. According to the guides, most of the information about the gender of the skeleton interestingly enough comes from the assessment of various past visitors to the cave, including a doctor and an osteologist. In any case, the calcification of many centuries has led the skeleton to have the appearance of being encrusted in crystals:

Another impressive Mayan relic is the pottery. These vessels supposedly made using the coil method, look nothing like the rudimentary coil vases I constructed in my high school art class. Also, none of the pottery inside the ATM Cave is completely intact. The Mayans deliberately left them with a section removed, to allow the spirit to escape.

And as the cave was seen as the Underworld, with the roots of the local Ceiba tree ultimately transporting the souls of the Mayan skeletons through Earth to Heaven, there are also pottery altars for blood-letting and sacrifice. And it is believed that there was often older royalty buried with a younger skeleton to aid them in escaping the Underworld.

The souls of the Mayan skeletons are believed to have undergone quite the journey from the ATM Cave, and as a modern day visitor, I too, felt as if I had undergone a massive journey. One of adventure, caving, swimming, geology, and archaelogy, exploring the natural aspects of the cave and appreciating it for the significance it still holds for local Mayans.

It was seeing the rocks and formations of the cave, coupled with Mayan archaeological relics, along with the adventure of the swimming and climbing throughout the cave that really made this whole experience so incredible and memorable for me.

And now I understand why that first night in San Ignacio, Belize, this was the tour everyone couldn’t stop talking about.

Have you been caving before? Was your experience anything like Belize’s ATM Cave? Any other questions about what it’s like to visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments.’

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9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

June 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Belize is a destination that over-delivers, with unexpected adventure and incredibly easy travel on any budget.

My decision to visit Belize was a bit last-minute, so it ended up being a solo trip, since there wasn’t enough time to coordinate with anyone and I had a narrow time window that worked with my schedule. Certainly I love to travel solo, although I do think about and plan my travel a bit differently when I know I’ll be on my own.

Although I did a bit of extra planning and coordinated one organized tour in advance, a lot of the additional preparation was not needed. It was just such an easy place to visit, with really incredible sights to see and explore once you arrived! It even boasts the Belize Barrier Reef, the longest in the western hemisphere, making for great water adventures as well.

Even for those who can be a bit apprehensive about international travel, visiting Belize is a very relaxed and easy vacation to enjoy.

#1 | People are Friendly

I had only stopped for a moment after arriving in San Ignacio by bus, to glance at the map on my phone to locate my guesthouse. During this brief pause, the police officer directing traffic at the nearby roundabout headed my way to ask if he could help me find my destination.

This encounter was typical of many I had in Belize, with locals approaching you to offer help if you paused and looked confused. Or even if you approached them, like I did when I first arrived at the Belize Bus Station from the airport, offering comprehensive and helpful information to help you arrive at your destination smoothly or just taking the time to get to know you and see how you’re liking your time in Belize.

#2 | Everyone speaks English

I don’t think it registered with me before my trip that Belize is part of the British Commonwealth. Until I saw Queen Elizabeth on all their currency, anyway! Belize only gained independence in 1981 (quite recently as Commonwealth countries go), and everyone I encountered there spoke English. Certainly for native English speakers, or those of other nationalities with even rudimentary English skills, this takes out a lot of the stress of visiting a foreign country.

While English is the official language, certainly Spanish is widely spoken, especially close to the Guatemalan border. And there is also a fair amount of Kriol (the local Creole language) and some other languages of the region.

#3 | Transport around Belize is easy

Depending on your comfort level and budget, there are plenty of options for how to get around Belize during your trip:

Renting a car. I like to have a buddy for road trips, so I didn’t opt to rent a car, although many do for their time in Belize. And road signs are all in English.

Buses. Buses are what I took most often, to get between cities and also for shorter day trips to Mayan ruins. The buses in Belize may look familiar, because they are second-hand school buses purchased from the United States! Many of them stay their original yellow color, although some bus companies paint over with other hues.

Between cities it can take a while on the bus (besides the Express), since they’ll stop at countless bus stops and intersections along the way. But especially for local buses, I found it extremely useful as a tourist since each bus has a person dedicated to taking money – and not driving – who can make sure you get off in the right spot for where you want to go. Plus, they’re cheap!

Taxis. Certain spots, like getting from the Belize City Airport to the Bus Station, are just easier in a taxi. Usually there is a fixed fare for these journeys, and even outside of the cities, there was always a local nearby who knew the going rate for a cab ride. Ask locals about the price to expect before you go, and you’ll know you’re paying a fair price.

Ferries/Water Taxis. If you’re visiting Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye off the coast of Belize City, most people opt for one of the water taxis that run across. There are also various spots along the coast with ferries. From Danriga, I took a bus to Independence (which was leaving much sooner than the Placencia bus), and then got a ferry to Placencia Town at the tip of the peninsula.

Flights. There are a lot of short-hop flights on local carriers like Maya Air and Tropic Air, especially along the coast. It’s definitely more expensive than the bus, but will get you to your destination much faster and with stunning views along the way as the planes fly quite low. I took one flight to get to the airport on my way home, so I didn’t have to leave super-early in the morning or stress about traffic on the road to Belize City.

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Car Transfers. If the thought of inter-city travel on an old school bus without air conditioning gives you pause, don’t worry, that’s not your only option. There are several car transfer companies that offer a more comfortable, air-conditioned, direct ride to your destination. Most hotels and guesthouses can arrange this for you in advance.

#4 | It’s easy to travel on a budget

While there are some costs you can’t avoid, overall travel around Belize is quite inexpensive, even if it’s accurately known as the most expensive country in Central America. That’s only by comparison to some very cheap places to visit.

Especially with taking bus transportation and doing some exploring on your own, you can get around and eat well for not all that much. If you’re willing to forego air conditioning, you can get true budget accommodations, but even my private room in a guesthouse with air conditioning in San Ignacio was only around $50 USD/night.

Plan for the budget you have, but cost should definitely not be a deterrent to visiting!

#5 | You can pay in US dollars pretty much anywhere

If you’re American or arriving from the US, you’ll be pleased to know that you can pay in US dollars throughout Belize. This includes taxis, random small town buses, and street vendors, as well as more established hotels and businesses. I never had my US dollars refused.

Typically when you pay with US currency, you’ll get Belizean dollars (BZD) as change, although sometimes I was offered a mix of USD and BZD. Don’t worry, it’s an easy conversion because the currencies are tied together: $1 US = $2 BZD.

I brought a fair bit of cash, and between that and paying for tours with a credit card when I could, I didn’t need to go to an ATM or formally exchange money the entire trip. Although since credit cards charge a conversion fee, it would have actually been a bit cheaper to pay for everything in cash, which I didn’t realize ahead of time. If you’re comfortable carrying that much, anyway.

TIP! Be sure to check whether prices are in USD or BZD at restaurants and shops since both currencies use the dollar sign ($) and you’ll want to know the actual cost of what you’re getting.

#6 | All sorts of adventures await

One of the main things that drew me to visit Belize was adventure. There are all sorts of active and outdoor activities to enjoy, and many of these are clustered in certain parts of the country, so it’s easy to have a single home base and do day trips in different directions, as I did from San Ignacio.

Adventures include:

exploring and climbing Mayan ruins (went to a few of these)
hiking
caving
swimming in waterfalls (did this twice)
visiting wildlife preserves
some of the best scuba diving and snorkeling in the world (I saw a manatee!)

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#7 | Tours are readily available

If you’re not quite as independent on the road as I am, or want to follow my lead and break up solo travel with a few organized tours, there is availability of tours for just about everything you might want to do. There are also a few outings that for preservation reasons, you can only enter with a tour guide.

I did full-day tours to the ATM cave (tour guide required), a day trip to Tikal in Guatemala, & a visit to a Mayan chocolate farm and factory (pictured above) followed by swimming in a waterfall. When I was staying at the beach, I also did a ½ day snorkeling tour at the last minute.

The only tour I arranged in advance was to visit the chocolate farm and factory, and all my other day trips I was able to arrange the night before. Most tours have a minimum of 2 people, so as a solo traveler, I just found out which tours already had people signed up for the following day. Or you can always pay a premium for a private tour.

#8 | You can relax on one of the countless beaches

On the Caribbean coast, Hopkins and Placencia (where I stayed), are the most popular beach destinations. But a country like Belize is not limited to a single coastline because there are hundreds of cayes!

Cayes are small islands of varying sizes, many with pristine white beaches and incredible snorkeling and diving in the surrounding water. Larger cayes will have accommodations available, so you can stay overnight or in some cases have a private section of beach to enjoy.

#9 | Great food everywhere you go

There some fabulous restaurants scattered throughout Belize. These range from fancy seafood restaurants, ones serving traditional Belizean cuisine, ethnic restaurants (lots of Chinese food), and upscale French and Italian spots.

There is also a strong street food culture. Which means that you can eat well everywhere, even in transit. And the cheapest food you can get, typically from a street food vendor, is often the most delicious.

You can get a sense of how much I enjoyed Belize because although I only recently returned from my trip, I am already strategizing about how to go back for a return visit!

I was a bit too early for the annual Lobster Festivals that take place in a few different coastal towns when lobster season begins each year on June 15^th. And I didn’t make it to the most popular part of Belize – the Cayes (Caulker & Ambergris).

Next time…

Have you been to Belize? What made it an enjoyable experience for you? Any other questions about what it’s like to visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Costa Rican Coffee Tradition: The Chorreador

September 29, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I’m an atypical coffee aficionado. Most coffee fiends I know were downing multiple cups of joe as a high school student, or at least by the time they graduated high school.

Me? Despite being an academic overachiever and prolific procrastinator (I pulled all-nighters starting in high school), I made it through college and several years into the workforce without much in the way of caffeine, aside from the occasional chai tea latte.

And then I started teaching.

Teaching high school, involving early wake-ups (I’m not a morning person), then exhausting days on my feet followed by evenings of lesson planning and grading papers, for me meant sleeping only around 5 hours each night. And while I can function on such minimal sleep, I am not at my best always, and that is when coffee became a regular part of my morning routine. So much so that my barista would have my usual drink ready by the time I reached the front of the line and we would greet each other warmly on the street by name when we ran into each other.

In my late 20s, I finally learned how to make coffee and bought my first drip coffee machine (if you are an American buying your first coffee machine, it’s probably for drip coffee). Of course, coffee at home also usually involved a generous spoonful of sweetened vanilla syrup and possibly even sugar on top of that. Let’s just say I was not the most sophisticated coffee drinker when I first started out.

In the years since, I have been fortunate to live in two places with a strong coffee culture: Australia & Italy. Both countries pride themselves on the quality and particular proportions of coffee and milk involved in crafting the perfect espresso-based drink. And now I admit it – I am a full-on snob when it comes to my coffee.

These days, I also feel like I am pretty well versed in coffee brewing methods. Of course there are many trends as of late, but at home I stick to the more time-honored traditional ways. I still have my electric drip coffee maker in storage back in the US, as well as *just a few* other ways to get my jolt of caffeine in the morning:

Espresso Machine

Moka Pot

French Press

Vietnamese drip coffee

So when I was recently in Costa Rica on my annual family vacation, I knew I would want to write a blog post afterward, but wasn’t sure what I’d describe. I had many beautiful experiences there, but I felt like they were mostly the typical things you’d imagine about travelling to Costa Rica: hiking, going to the beach, walking in the rainforest, and swimming in the natural pool at the bottom of a waterfall.

One of the unique things that stands out in my mind, though – the coffee.

Costa Rica has its own brewing method for coffee that I only saw and heard of for the first time on my recent visit – the chorreador de café. The most basic chorreador consists of a tiny cloth bag (it sort of looks like a sock) that is filled with coffee grounds and then suspended over a coffee mug or other collection vessel, as boiling water is poured over top and the coffee drips into the cup or container. More formal chorreador devices have the cloth pouch suspended on a wooden stand, which can be quite elaborate, although having the cloth bag on some sort of basic handle to keep the top open and hold it over your mug is sufficient to make the coffee.

Of all of the coffee brewing methods I’ve seen, I find this one unique because it can be constructed very simply and for not much money – possibly even from items you already have at home. Making coffee with a chorreador is accessible to pretty much anyone (and environmentally friendly!).

It also is not tied to any particular plug, something I am sensitive to as an expat. The US is on a different plug from Australia, which is on yet a different plug from Italy. Let’s just say that electric coffee methods are not so portable if you are someone on the go. In fact, you’ll notice above that with the exception of the espresso machine, all of the other coffee brewing methods I own are plug-independent. And in the more remote areas of Costa Rica where electricity was an issue – or still is – it is ideal to have a way to brew coffee that does not require an outside power source (and boiling the water can be done over a fire if needed).

In terms of the taste, I find that the coffee from the chorreador is earthy and more intense than your typical drip coffee, giving you an overtone of the flavor of the beans while being just slightly darker in appearance than you’d expect. It is definitely not close to espresso in taste, but I felt a similar jolt of caffeine after even just a small glass of the chorreador coffee. The most exciting thing for me was discovering a new lens through which I can experience coffee, this wonderful beverage I’ve come to appreciate in the past years.

It’s always satisfying to have something in mind before you take a trip and then fulfill it. What’s even more satisfying for me though – and one of the many reasons I love to travel – is for the even more satisfying experience of discovery and experiencing the unexpected.

Have you ever had coffee from a chorreador? Or Costa Rican coffee beans prepared another way? What did you think? And what’s your favorite method for brewing coffee?