Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London
The town of Bath, an easy train ride from London, lived up to and far exceeded my mental picture of what it would be like to spend a few days in a quaint British town. Trying to coordinate visiting two different friends in London this past fall (and seeing an NFL game in London in the process!) I ended up with two packed weekends and no plans in between. Which didn’t seem like the worst outcome to me, especially since the value of the pound had fallen quite a bit by then following the Brexit vote. So it just became a matter of how I would spend the days in between.
I’ve been to London a number of times, but have never really ventured much outside of the city (other than visiting Stonehenge back in 2007). After polling a bunch of British friends, the most frequent suggestion I received was to go to the town of Bath. The site of the only natural hot springs in the United Kingdom, if the town was good enough to be beloved by the Roman Empire, surely I could find a few things to do over a couple of days in town. Plus, although I didn’t realize this before making my plans, the entire town of Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
In the end, Bath really wowed me, and I felt like I had a variety of interesting things to do, time to relax, and ate some really great food along the way. Bath is also a popular family destination, and my time there was quite crowded as it coincided with a school holiday week (who knew that ‘half-term’ was a cause for vacation?). So if I fell in love with the town on a busy week, just imagine how much you’ll love it when you go.
Things to Do
Around Town
Located in the town’s central pedestrian area, the Abbey is not to be missed. The interior is filled with high arches and colors streaming in through the stained glass windows, but even more intriguing is the Tower Tour that will take you to the hidden stairwells, the bell ringing chamber, and onto the roof for excellent views in all directions.
Although I did not visit, I’m including the Jane Austen House on my list because it is one of Bath’s most popular attractions. Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years, and while she supposedly did not like it, she did end up setting two of her novels in Bath – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. The house has period furnishings and tells of Jane’s time in Bath.
Once the Romans discovered the natural thermal springs of Bath, they did the only logical thing – they built a spa! Not to be confused with the modern spa (see below), this is the incredibly well-preserved historical site. It’s a huge complex that will take a couple of hours to fully explore, as you progress through the temple and various treatment rooms of ancient times. The audioguide is excellent, and offers different perspectives, including some commentary by one of the funniest authors I’ve ever read, Bill Bryson. Be sure to take a (small) taste of the thermal spring water at the end before you leave.
With pools fed by the natural hot springs, this is a world-class spa to have a relaxing several hours during your stay in Bath. There are steam rooms with different calming aromas, pools of different temperatures and with jets to soothe sore muscles, and a hot pool on the roof with an expansive view of town. In addition to the several hours of lounging in the different pools that was included in my package, I also had an excellent massage here.
TIP! If you will be in Bath on a weekend or during school holidays, book ahead of time to ensure that you can get in to the spa.
TIP! As long as no masseuses call in sick, additional slots may open up in the morning for the same day. Call the reservation line first thing in the morning if you haven’t been able to reserve in advance.
TIP! There are a lot of good package deals including massages, especially mid-week. If you’re not sure which one to choose, I’d definitely recommend either talking through the options and their relative prices with someone over the phone or in person at the spa before you reserve.
Off the Beaten Path
This is one of my favorite museums of all time! I’m not always a museum person, but I’m so glad I strolled a bit out of the center to arrive here. The main collection is free, and has so much character and a wealth of interesting items that Sir William Holburne collected during his lifetime. I didn’t have nearly enough time, so I’d recommend coming early enough in the day that you have the time to be leisurely.
TIP! Open all of the drawers in the main collection, as some of the most interesting tidbits and interactive displays were inside.
I didn’t make it to this National Trust site as it’s a bit outside of the city and I ran out of time, but it looks absolutely beautiful from the pictures I’ve seen, especially of the Palladian Bridge located there. I’d say it’s worth the time going from town on public transit, which looks pretty straightforward, and certainly is a place to pop into if you have a car.
The Royal Crescent is a quite lengthy curved section of connected houses, which is distinctive-looking both for its curvature and sheer size. The math geek in me can’t help but point out that it is semi-elliptical, not semi-circular. The entire Royal Crescent was built in the late 1700s, and the house that stands at No. 1 Royal Crescent is actually a museum you can visit, with period furnishings.
If you’ve spent a bit of time exploring in town, this park that is a relatively easy walk from the center and is a great spot to get a dose of greenery and stroll in nature. I spent a bit of time wandering one of my mornings, and it was a great way to have a relaxing start to my day. It is also notable for being the first park named after the 11-year old (not-yet-Queen) Victoria.
Best Bites
A cute, centrally-located cafe where I enjoyed breakfast one of my mornings, there is an array of coffee, tea, pastries, and breakfast dishes to choose from. I enjoyed their sweetcorn hash, with haloumi, poached eggs, and avocado. A great savory way to energize for a busy day of sightseeing.
On the way from town to the Holburne Museum (see above), this coffee shop serves up great hot beverages, although the big draw is the lovely view of the river. Even if the tables on the river side of the shop are taken when you arrive, keep an eye out for departing guests so you can relocate to take in the scenery as you sip.
Chaiwalla Indian Street Food
Right in the heart of town, the vegetarian Indian food served here at super-reasonable prices will satisfy your hunger. The friendly owner/chef can help you decide between the excellent options, or just keep an eye on the dishes prepared to order ahead of you for a sense of which flavorful and delicious option you’d like to order. Conveniently, there are several benches across the street to enjoy your takeaway meal.
Oh my goodness, you must come here for dinner! Recommended to me by a friend who lives in London, it’s a really great Spanish tapas spot that was quite crowded when I went. Fortunately as a solo traveler I didn’t have to wait long before being able to snag a seat at the bar, but if you’re in a party larger than one, you probably want to reserve a table in advance as the space is small. The tapas are excellent, the staff is friendly, and anything you order off their special gin cocktail menu (ask for it if needed) will be crafted with incredible care and wow you with its unique flavor combinations.
Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum
Located in one of the oldest houses in Bath, you’re likely to encounter a line out the door to dine in for one of Bath’s specialty buns. Fortunately, if you’re not interested in dining in, you can bypass the line to visit the display area downstairs with some history of the house and the bun, as well as purchase a freshly-baked Sally Lunn bun. The bun has a crust around the outside, is like an airy brioche inside, and comes in one size only that is as big as your head!
Come here for the same reason as everybody else – their award-winning fish & chips. The fish is quite fresh, and unlike some other spots, you get a choice of the type of fish to be fried up with your chips. You can also get your dishes to take away, which can be an appealing option when the restaurant is busy and the line is long.
(More) Practical Tips for Visiting
Bath was a great place to spend a few days, and certainly one of the things that stands out for me was how easy transportation was both to get to Bath and once you arrived. And the town is definitely set up for visitors, with user-friendly pedestrian maps posted in several spots around town. There are plenty of coffee shops around as well, with proper espresso-based drinks as well as the tea options you’d expect in England.
TIP! The buses within Bath are cheap and easy to use, so if you’re traveling a long distance or are simply tired of walking, take advantage. My guesthouse was a bit far from the train station, so I also took a bus when I was arriving and departing with my luggage.
TIP! Bath is a popular family destination, so it will be significantly more crowded during school holidays. Check for the dates of local holidays so you can book accordingly.
TIP! Although the timing wasn’t right during my visit, there are quite a few live theatre performances that take place in Bath. You can peruse the options here. There are also lots of restaurants with pre-theatre meal specials.
Have you been to Bath? What were the highlights for you? Or do you have a different favorite trip for a few days outside of London? Share in the ‘Comments’ below!
Like this post? ‘Pin It’ for later on Pinterest!
