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Summer Reading List

Summer Reading List

Summertime means vacation for many, and even though I don’t have any long trips planned for this summer, one of the best ways I relax and unwind is curling up with a good book.

Instead of being stuck with what to read next, I always spend some time in June compiling a Summer Reading List.  Whether I take a train or airplane, some of my best reading usually happens in transit – and I like to have a variety of books in mind to keep me entertained.

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2017

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2019

This new Summer Reading List is as eclectic as my travel style, so you’ll find it packed with both fiction and non-fiction, covering my randomly-determined categories of Easy Reading, Memoir, On a More Serious Note, Self Improvement, & Thriller.

Here’s what made it onto my 2018 ‘Summer Reading List’:

EASY READING

Circe

by Madeline Miller

This Greek goddess who is the daughter of Helios breaks out into her own and after being banished by Zeus has some of the more memorable encounters in Greek mythology with the Minotaur, Icarus, and Odysseus. Billed as part-fantasy, part-drama, this will definitely offer an escape to another world.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Kiss Quotient

by Helen Hoang

As a former math teacher (and lifetime math enthusiast!) how could I not already love a book that has quotient in the title?!? The main character uses math to organize her life and decides to hire a professional escort to get her acclimated to everything dating-related. Totally logical, right? I have a feeling I’m going to enjoy this one. Plus, there’s already another book in this series planned for next year.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

When Life Gives You Lululemons

by Lauren Weisberger

The title might be a bit too cute even for me, but after a second book that most people didn’t read, this is the third novel of The Devil Wears Prada series, with former unfavored assistant Emily taking her latest Hollywood image consultant skills to ritzy Connecticut. Sounds like this one is going to be one entertaining read for summer.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

MEMOIR

All Over the Place: Adventures in Travel, True Love, and Petty Theft

by Geraldine DeRuiter

Written by fellow blogger Geraldine DeRuite, this memoir is by someone who describes herself as inherently unsuited to travel . . . but does it anyway. I can’t wait to experience all her misadventures in her several years of traveling the globe and all the ways she gets lost – literally and metaphorically – along the way.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Educated: A Memoir

by Tara Westover

Westover, born to survivalist parents, was nearly 18 years old before she ever attended school or saw a doctor. She was so motivated in her quest for education that it eventually resulted in her earning a PhD from Cambridge University. I can’t wait to experience this most unusual journey vicariously through her eyes.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Priestdaddy: A Memoir

by Patricia Lockwood

Patricia’s father, already married with children, gets unusual approval to become a Catholic priest. And that seems to be the most normal part of her upbringing! The memoir looks back on her childhood and her experience as an adult moving back in with her parents, and all her hilarious observations along the way.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Without You There is No Us: My Time with the Sons of North Korea’s Elite

by Suki Kim

This book is from 2014, but feels incredibly relevant this summer as one of the only available first-hand accounts of what it is like inside North Korea. Kim is an investigative journalist who posed as a missionary to get a position teaching English at Pyongyang University of Science and Technology to the country’s elite. Her novel has been controversial enough that the author addressed the ethics of her being embedded there on her personal website, but regardless of how you feel about her methods, it is one of the few independent accounts available of life on the inside.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

ON A MORE SERIOUS NOTE

American Kingpin

by Nick Bilton

Set around the Dark Web, the underbelly of the internet, a single person created a marketplace for all sort of illicit transactions in 2011. By the time law enforcement finally hears about it, it is a $1 billion unidentified enterprise nearly impossible to take down. The story of the manhunt may sound more like a thriller, but I imagine the possibilities of the evil of the internet will have me thinking some serious thoughts along the way.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

An American Marriage

by Tayari Jones

Once this book got picked as a selection for Oprah’s Book Club, you knew there were some serious ramifications to this story. An American Marriage touches on America’s criminal justice system and wrongful incarceration, and the havoc it can wreak on personal relationships. This one is definitely near the top of my Summer Reading List.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Girls Burn Brighter

by Shobha Rao

On the surface it’s about two teenage friends who become separated and then struggle to find one another again, but along the way the story shifts from India to America and explores issues like extreme poverty and human trafficking. It ultimately seems to be about the friendship between the women though, which is what I find so compelling.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Into the Raging Sea: Thirty-three Mariners, One Megastorm, and the Sinking of the El Faro

by Rachel Slade

After watching a movie that involves an airplane crash while traveling on an airplane (2012’s Flight, in case you’re curious) I have no hesitation reading this highly anticipated book about a giant container ship that went missing in the Bermuda Triangle. Even if I end up reading it while I’m on a boat! More than anything, this strikes me as both a mystery solved and an unsettling look into the modern shipping industry.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Power

by Naomi Alderman

Named The Power because this book envisions a world in which women hold the power, but it seems to be grounded enough in reality that it reveals a lot we don’t necessarily want to see about power dynamics. Apparently terrifying at points when it takes situations to their logical conclusion in this alternate universe, the intersection of power and gender roles is bound to be interesting.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Three Daughters of Eve

by Elif Shafak

This bestselling author who writes in both Turkish and English spins a tale set in Istanbul, where the main character has to reconcile memories from her time abroad at Oxford University with the modern terror attacks taking place in Turkey. Turkey has always been at the crossroads of continents, but this story also seems to explore the far scarier conflict between modernity and tradition, and the violence that results when they clash.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Turtles All the Way Down

by John Green

The teenage main character chases a lavish reward by a billionaire, but the journey serves to unmask someone struggling vividly with mental illness and their attempts to cope. This story sounds like one that will draw me in and I just won’t be able to look away, even as she unravels.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

SELF-IMPROVEMENT

Factfulness: Ten Reasons We’re Wrong About the World – and Why Things Are Better Than You Think

by Hans Rosling, Ola Rosling, and Anna Rosling Rönnlund

When Bill Gates puts a book on his 2018 list of 5 books worth reading this summer, you pay attention, especially when he calls Factfulness “one of the best books I’ve ever read.” The book addresses misconceptions people hold about global trends and how we’re not as bad off as we thought. I am already thinking of it as the 21st century version of “How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb” and hope Rosling changes my outlook for the better.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

THRILLER

The Feather Thief: Beauty, Obsession, and the Natural History Heist of the Century

by Kirk W. Johnson

It’s the only non-fiction one in this category, but this one sounds like a real page-turning thriller. Unusual in that it tells the story of a heist that involved no violence, the American author happens to hear about the rare bird specimens that went missing in England two years prior and then becomes obsessed with the topic, doing his own investigating to find out more about this most unusual theft.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The President is Missing

by Bill Clinton and James Patterson

Who cares what it’s about, former American President Bill Clinton and bestselling author James Patterson wrote a book together! Well, the title kind of gives the premise away anyway, but this a thriller that unfolds over three days that I can’t wait to read.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Wife Between Us

by Greer Hendricks

This seems to me to be in the same vein as Gone Girl by Gillian Flynn, a suspense novel about love and marriage. From the reviews I’ve seen people seem to feel strongly about this one, and I get the feeling I’m going to breeze right through reading it to form an opinion of my own.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Woman in the Window

by A.J. Finn

A recluse in New York City sees something as she looks out her window that causes the whole spiral of the book. I haven’t read many of the details because I’d prefer to be surprised, but this might be the most-hyped book on this list – I’ve had it on hold at the library since March and am only just now in June approaching the top of the list to borrow it to read.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Word Is Murder

by Anthony Horowitz

I just read and loved Magpie Murders by the same author and his latest novel came out just a few weeks ago. The action seems to kick off when I woman is strangled just hours after arranging her own funeral. My previous read involved some quaint British mystery-solving in the style of Agatha Christie’s Miss Marple or Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes, and I can’t wait to see where this one leads.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Two Girls Down

by Louisa Luna

Two young sisters disappear in a parking lot and their mother hires a bounty hunter and former cop to find them. I’m not sure where this will all lead, but it certainly sounds like an interesting premise that will keep me turning pages to see how it all turns out.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2017

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2019

Where are you headed this summer? Do you know what books you’ll be reading yet? Any great books that didn’t make my list? I love book recommendations, let me know what your favorite summer reads are!

And in case you missed it, my 2017 “Summer Reading List” is HERE.

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How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok

How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok

I hated Bangkok the first time I visited.

I’m the kind of person who goes to a new city, and even before I leave, am planning itineraries in my head for when I am able to return. Questions like “What city would you like to go back to?” always stump me because the honest answer is “Almost everywhere.”

In Bangkok, I spent my time thinking about how quickly I could escape the city and never have to come back.

Fast forward to when I was living in Milan, Italy and as part of a holiday raffle, won a prize that would have excited anyone else – a free round-trip flight to Bangkok!

Winning a Trip to Bangkok from Milan How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20141125_160018

Honestly, I felt a bit restrained in my excitement. How did I end up with the one gift everyone would want but me??

Quickly rationalizing in my head, I realized that a flight to Bangkok would be a good excuse to go to Hong Kong and celebrate Chinese New Year there. And that I could tack on some time in northern Thailand for rock climbing and other adventures that I had skipped on my first trip.

Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai, Thailand before returning to Bangkok
Rock Climbing in Chiang Mai, Thailand

Even though I had to fly through Bangkok both coming and going – honestly? I debated spending any time in the city at all.

In the end, to avoid having multiple back-to-back flights to get back home to Milan, I decided to spend a minimal amount of time in Bangkok and would try to have a better experience the second time around.

Why I Hated Bangkok & Tips for What to Do Instead

Bangkok is not an easy city for many travelers, even experienced ones. It boasts its own special brand of chaos that is hard to handle and can be quite frustrating. Even more so if you’ll be traveling solo.

READ MORE: How to Plan Solo Travel in 8 Easy Steps

Here I break down all the parts of Bangkok that drove me crazy on my first visit – and what to do instead so you don’t repeat my mistakes and have an enjoyable visit when you go. I even came away from my return visit liking the city.

It’s possible, I swear!

#1 | What Went Wrong with Taxis and Tuk Tuks

Trying to go somewhere? Transportation in Bangkok can be a challenge.

The drivers with orange vests are motorbike taxis

It was sometimes hard to hail a tuk tuk – the open-air mini transport common in southeast Asia – if you weren’t going to one of the most common tourist spots. Other than heading toward Khao San Road where backpackers tend to stay, drivers would often shrug their shoulders at your intended destination and simply drive off.

Taxi rides were equally difficult to come by. Even once after getting in the taxi – ably hailed with assistance from hotel staff – I got lost on the way (even with a street address written out in Thai!) because so many street names are identical or don’t go in order depending on which direction you’re traveling in the city.

Another time when I had Google Maps open on my cell phone in Thai, and an address marked off with a star, after minimal effort glancing at the screen, the taxi driver decided that it was too much effort to figure out the destination and he simply drove off without me.

What to Do Instead

Even though it doesn’t help all of the time, having verified locations with Thai writing and marked on a map ready to show the driver will increase your chances of hailing transport immensely. The one time I could not get a taxi to take me to my destination, a tuk tuk driver consulted the map on my phone and was able to go right there.

Orderly lines at the Skytrain station
Orderly lines at the Skytrain station

It also helps to stay somewhere that is close to the Skytrain or other public transportation, so that you are minimally dependent on tuk tuks or taxis to get around. I stayed right by a Skytrain station on my return visit and it was much easier to get around the city on my own.

Check out budget hotel deals in Bangkok HERE

TIP! If you are staying at a hotel or near a hotel, it is probably much easier to get a tuk tuk or taxi organized there. Staff are happy to hail one off the street or call.

TIP! There are also some taxi apps that were not available on my first trip but exist now – see the ‘General Travel Tips’ section below.

#2 | What Went Wrong with the Weather

Bangkok the first time around was quite uncomfortable with the heat. Even though it was December, it was quite hot visiting attractions during the day, and I was coated in a glistening sheen of sweat within minutes of walking outside.

What to Do Instead

The obvious solution, which did not occur to me on my first visit, is to simply do a tour of outdoor attractions at night, when temperatures are cooler. On my return trip, I did a fabulous Bangkok Night Lights Tuk Tuk Tour with Expique.

Wat Worawihan at night
Wat Worawihan at night
Wat Pho at night
Wat Pho at night

While I don’t always opt for organized tours when I travel, this small group tour was perfect. During the more moderate weather after the sun went down, tuk tuks whisked us around the city, and our engaging guide shared tidbits of information at every stop and shared a Thai local’s perspective.

Explore Tour Options with Expique HERE

In addition having a guide, taking the tour made transportation easy. The meeting point was at a Skytrain station and since there are dedicated tuk tuks for the entire tour, you don’t have to contend with the hassle of hailing a tuk tuk yourself between each attraction as you would have to do on your own.

Expique Tuk Tuk Tour How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150301_214009

TIP! You can also pay extra to have your tuk tuk transport you back to your accommodation at the end of the tour.

#3 | What Went Wrong with Money

You would not believe how many arguments ensued with taxi drivers about making change.

It goes something like this: I offer a bill sufficient to pay the fare. The driver holds up his hands helplessly explaining that he does not have enough change and asks if you have a smaller bill. As a tourist, it’s hard to tell if it’s a real predicament or if someone is trying to scam you.

What to Do Instead

While in some cases it may seem like someone trying to extort you into paying more, the reality is that most street vendors and tuk tuk or taxi drivers only have small bills. If you have anything decently large (500 Baht or more), they may legitimately struggle to make small change.

Even though 500 Baht is only around US$15 or 15, it is often too large a bill for vendors or drivers to accept or make change for.

Thai Baht How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand

Be prepared to over-tip or even easier – avoid conflict by having small bills on hand. Otherwise the Asian custom of saving face may prevail, and the driver in an effort to avoid conflict, will drive off without any money at all. Don’t put drivers in this difficult position.

TIP! Change out any large ATM bills at a currency exchange – this is easy to do at the airport or your hostel/hotel – or at a brick-and-mortar store like a 7-11 or supermarket if you make a small purchase.

#4 | What Went Wrong with Public Transportation

In many cities I’ve traveled around the world, local public transportation systems have pretty thorough coverage of the city center. In Bangkok on my first visit, this was not the case.

My hotel was not particularly close to a Skytrain station, and there were very limited options to get around without taking the long trek or struggling with other transport options. It was a hassle, and felt limiting in terms of exploring the city.

What to Do Instead

Stay near a centrally located Skytrain station!

TripAdvisor

As I’ve already mentioned, finding taxis or tuk tuks are not always easy, so having nearby access to the reliable transportation system dramatically changes your experience in the city. I was able to easily get to my accommodation from the airport when I arrived and had close access to get around Bangkok on my own once I arrive.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Of course, being central as well as near a Skytrain station ensures more access on foot as well, and there were several attractions and markets within walking distance.

Walking around Bangkok
Walking around Bangkok

For my second visit, I stayed at In A Box Hostel.

Find budget accommodations at In A Box Hostel HERE

Find other great deals on accommodation options in Bangkok HERE

#5 | What Went Wrong with the Crowds

When Bangkok gets crowded, it is really crowded.

My first visit was over New Year’s Eve, and the city was completely packed during the holiday period. Like other cities around the world, Bangkok has a large fireworks display that attracts a lot of tourists looking to celebrate somewhere memorable.

Traveling during a holiday period also meant overwhelming crowds and lines at tourist attractions, with most people heading in similar directions to the most popular markets and sights around town.

Wat Pho during the day. Not pictured: the immense crowds below.
Wat Pho during the day. Not pictured: the immense crowds below.

What to Do Instead

First, the Bangkok Night Lights Tuk Tuk Tour with Expique that I mentioned in #2 above was a great way to experience the city and sights minus the crowds. I wish I had known about it on my first visit.

Explore Tour Options with Expique HERE

Bangkok also boasts also lesser known but equally amazing tourist attractions, like The Jim Thompson House. Seek out more sights that are off the beaten path to experience Bangkok in a more relaxed way.  Or visit during the off season.

Museum dedicated to the American businessman who revitalized the Thai silk industry before his mysterious (still unsolved) disappearance in Malaysia in 1967
Museum dedicated to the American businessman who revitalized the Thai silk industry before his mysterious (still unsolved) disappearance in Malaysia in 1967

General Travel Tips for Bangkok

Of course, compensating for all of the typical first-time visitor mistakes won’t be enough to keep you safe and happy in Bangkok all on their own.

Most of the tips listed below are general city smarts, although some are specific to Bangkok and Thailand.

Here are some more tips for when you go:

Plan to haggle.

Take at least half the price off the initial offer from any vendor when you make your counteroffer, but be kind when reaching an agreeable price.

Keep valuables secure.

Especially with all the motorbikes zooming around, the threat of a snatch-and-grab for your purse, camera, or other valuables is real. Be aware of your surroundings and keep your valuables secure and out of reach of any rapidly passing vehicles, especially motorbikes.

Mid-day traffic

Watch out for scams.

The most common scams are people telling you either that “tourist attractions are closed for official reason X” or that there are “no restaurants are in that direction” – and then re-directing you to their friend’s jewelry store or overpriced tourist restaurant.

At tourist attractions, scammers may even be wearing official-looking badges!

Also, don’t buy any gems or jewelry or tailored suits unless it is from a reputable store someone reliable has vouched for. These are common products that many scammers target.

Be Savvy with each Transit Option.

Tuk Tuks. Be sure to negotiate a price before you get in and don’t pay until the end of your trip when you have arrived at your destination.

TIP! It helps to ask at your hostel/hotel what the approximate price should be before hitting the streets, so you can have confidence with your negotiations.

Peering out at the brightly colored taxis
Peering out at the brightly colored taxis

Taxis. Be sure you are running on the meter, and then track the route on your phone to be sure you’re being taken the direct way. If the driver refuses to run on the meter, leave the vehicle and find a different taxi.

Apps. Uber and GrabTaxi are great alternatives to hailing a taxi off the street.

TIP! If you plan to hail taxis with the apps, buy a local SIM card or be sure your home country’s data plan will work.

Boats. I didn’t realize that boats were part of public transit until late in my first visit. It’s a great way to get between many places most directly.

Practice good Buddha etiquette.

Buddha How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand DSC_0164

Don’t sit with your feet facing the Buddha or take any pictures where you are higher than Buddha. Even if it’s sweltering, having something lightweight like a scarf or cardigan to cover up. And remove hats and shoes before entering a temple.

Explore local cuisine.

Street Food Vendors How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150302_162209Street Food Chatuchak Market How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand 20150301_145229

Gorge yourself on street food, especially at Chatuchak Market on the weekend. Many dishes come as a series of little bites, so easy to sample many different items from different stands, whether you’re at a market or just strolling around the city.

You’ll also see sidewalk cafes that have tables to sit-down, but are basically full restaurants where all the cooking happens on the street!

Tasting menu for one at nahm
Tasting menu for one at nahm

And of course, Bangkok has great upscale and fine dining spots. But what you may not know is that they are likely to be way more affordable than comparable spots at home. As a solo traveler, I was pleasantly surprised at how many dishes I was able to sample off tasting menus, like the one at nahm, on my return visit.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

Take a cooking class.

Cooking Class at Silom Thai Cooking School How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand DSC_0188

Using a large mortar and pestle to grind green curry paste.
Using a large mortar and pestle to grind green curry paste.

I don’t always take cooking classes when I travel, but it is a great approachable way to learn about the ingredients you’ll find at Thai markets and how to turn them into delicious dishes. I still use what I learned at a cooking class with Silom Thai Cooking School in Bangkok to cook Thai dishes at home regularly.

Find Silom Thai Cooking School Reviews & Booking Information HERE

Treat yourself.

Foot Massage How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand

Massages in Thailand are ridiculously cheap. I found my favorite spot on my last visit by looking at reviews close to where I was staying and found a great, local spot.

Outside of fancy hotels and spas you’ll spend a mere US$5 or 5 for either an hour-long foot massage or full body massage.

TripAdvisor

Obviously there are a lot of great reasons for visiting Bangkok and Thailand, and yes, I recommend that you visit. However, having a great time is not as easy to do as it might be in some other places you’ve visited.

So keep your travel savvy heightened when you go and follow these tips – and you’ll have an amazing time.

Happy travels!
Lana

Have you ever been to Bangkok? Did you enjoy your visit? Any other tips that I missed?

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How to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand BuddhaHow to Avoid Common Mistakes Travelers Make on their First Visit to Bangkok Thailand National Museum

Verona: A Romantic Getaway for Valentine’s Day

Verona: A Romantic Getaway for Valentine’s Day

I should have known better. It was a wintry February, I was just two months into living in Italy, and was looking for a town not too large or far from Milan for a weekend trip. From some vague research, it seemed like Verona would be perfect.

It was big, but not too big. It had a bunch of noteworthy sights, but not too many to be overwhelming. It had a culinary scene, but was still only a short drive from wine country. So I found a good deal on a bed and breakfast (it was the off-season, after all) and booked.

It was only when I arrived on this first visit to Verona that the realization hit. First, it was a poster with hearts here and there. Then announcements of an upcoming festival. Then finally the barrage of red hearts permeating my consciousness and I started connecting the dots. Verona . . . “In fair Verona where we lay our scene” . . . Romeo & Juliet . . . a romantic destination for Valentine’s Day!

Unwittingly I had put together a very timely weekend getaway in this most romantic of places. And the center of Verona is quite compact and walkable to all of the sights, making for a leisurely time even with a healthy dose of sightseeing. And although a fair bit of what you’ll want to see is outside, it makes it even cozier when you enter the cocoon of a traditional, wood-paneled restaurant or get cozy next to the fireplace. Or warm up with a thick, gooey, Italian hot chocolate.

Despite sort of stumbling on this gem for a romantic weekend away in the days leading up to Valentine’s Day, it was such a wonderful trip.

READ MORE: A Galentine’s Weekend in Thessaloniki, Greece

If you’re going for a romantic weekend – at any time of year – definitely keep your schedule flexible. The only firm plans I’d make are for your meals if there are specific restaurants you have in mind, and most Italians will reserve if they’re going out to eat during the weekend. Otherwise, just play it by ear and go where your heart takes you <3

Things to Do

Verona Card DSC_0108

Even if you’re not feeling touristically ambitious, the Verona Card is a great value, providing free entry into many churches and the main sights around town. It comes in 24- and 48-hour versions, and can be most easily purchased at any of the included attractions (everything I list below is on the Card).

arena DSC_0069

Roman Arena

Verona’s Arena may not be as big or famous as the Colosseum in Rome, but it is very well preserved. So much so, that it hosts a full season of outdoor opera performances during the warmer months. To enter, you’ll inevitably pass through the picturesque Piazza Bra, which is also a nice spot to stroll.

Castelvecchio Verona DSC_0007Castelvecchio Verona 20150510_181005

Castelvecchio

Literally “old castle” in Italian, this castle-turned-museum has great pieces of art and sculpture on display. It also has what is probably my favorite view of Verona, overlooking the nearby bridge and river. It’s all just so quaint!

Juliet’s House

Not just any Shakespearean characters, Romeo and Juliet are part of how we think about love, even today. While Juliet was imagined, “her” house could not be more real, turned into a museum with an actual balcony where you can get your iconic picture and a wall at the entrance for leaving a note for your beloved.

Lamberti Tower DSC_0009Lamberti Tower 2DSC_0041 (2)

Lamberti Tower

Adjacent to Piazza delle Erbe, this tower has been around for nearly 1,000 years, and the bells still ring multiple times a day. The fun of course is the view at the top – accessible on foot or by elevator. You’ll need to specify your preference when getting your ticket to enter, as the elevator costs a bit more.

church 20160117_104908

Churches

Like pretty much every city and town throughout Italy, there are several churches as well as a Cathedral, or Duomo. You’ll probably see several of these just strolling around, and there are 4 churches included on the Verona Card (see above). Verona has been well-preserved through the centuries, so you’ll get plenty of history whichever ones you choose to visit.

Places to Eat

Antica Bottega del Vino

Close to Piazza delle Erbe, but away from the fray on a side street, this restaurant has been around since the late 1800s and you feel the history in the décor and the depth of flavors in the dishes. It’s a great spot to sample a red risotto, made with the local Amarone wine.

Da Ugo Osteria

This is the spot to head to for traditional local cuisine. Popular with the locals, I definitely recommend a reservation for dinner or weekend dining. There is a ton of selection, and is personally notable as the one restaurant where I’ve sampled a dish with horse meat, which is pretty common throughout Italy. It was good.

Gelateria Savoia

Even wintertime is time for gelato. Many of the spots locals will recommend for the “best” gelato are far afield, but this is a delicious option right in the heart of the city, which has been around since the 1930s.

Liston 12

Like most great finds, I was looking for a spot for an aperitivo – a pre-dinner drink with some snacks – and followed the chatter of the locals to the bar inside. It’s on a pretty touristy stretch in Piazza Bra by the Arena, and I’ve never had a full meal there, but their cocktails are solid and the little nibbles that come with your drink are surprisingly delicious. The tasty snacks and great value for money (read: it’s cheap) are the reasons to seek out this particular spot. Join the crowd from about 6 to 8pm, before heading to your late Italian dinner.

 

TIP! Verona is in the Valentine’s spirit in the weeks leading up to Valentine’s Day. If you come on Valentine’s weekend itself, there is a multi-day “Verona in Love” Festival, which will be more crowded than other weekends, but also with more events. Its tag line says it all: “If you love someone . . . bring him to Verona!” Decide what timing works best for you and your sweetheart for that romantic getaway.

Several visits later and Verona is one of my favorite places in Italy, a spot I keep coming back to again and again. It’s a great romantic getaway for a day (or several) at any time of year, but you’ll feel some extra love from the city if you go around Valentine’s Day or during the Festival.

Where’s your favorite romantic getaway for Valentine’s Day?

Verona - A Romantic Getaway for Valentine's Day

 

Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Happy new year!

This year is starting off in an unusual way for me – it’s January and other than a weekend trip by train to New York City, I don’t have a single trip planned yet.

Which means I’m in as much a need of some travel direction as everyone else who hasn’t made any big travel plans for the year ahead.

For my top travel destinations to recommend for 2019, I’ve included a mix of locations hosting special events worth seeking out and also some new, not-too-overrun spots to check out. My past lists have mostly focused on countries, but this year’s list has a few specific cities and sites as well.

And for the first time, it’s divided into sections: New Recommendations for 2019 & Previous Recommendations I’m Highlighting. With some great spots I’ve never featured before and also some previous destinations that are especially great to consider this year.

Without further ado, I present – in alphabetical order – this year’s top 6 new travel picks:

Berlin (Germany)

Berliner Dom Cathedral Berlin Germany Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0689

If you’ve never been to Berlin, the first image of the city that may come to mind is a view of the wall coming down. Which is exactly what the city commemorates this year – the 30th anniversary of reunification. The Berlin Wall did not fall until November of 1989, however there will be a lot of special exhibits and events throughout the entirety of 2019.

Even separate from the historical significance this year, Berlin is such a cosmopolitan city that it is a great destination anytime.

While plenty of museums focus on the Wall, there is a wealth of other museums like you’d find in any other capital. Excellent food options abound, including many ethnic restaurants, and like any good German city, there is a great beer. Oh, and as you’ll see in the Cheat Sheet below, no shortage of beautiful rooftop views of the metropolis.

READ MORE: Berlin Cheat Sheet

READ MORE: Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

Cambodia

Cambodia is best known for the Angkor Wat temple complexes, which was the main draw when I visited. For me it was one of those places (like Petra in Jordan) that really exceeded expectations. Don’t shortchange yourself and plan to spend at least 2-3 days there exploring, including areas outside of town and closer to nature like Kbal Spean. Plus, the town of Siem Reap keeps developing, with more options every year for exploring local culture and sampling traditional Cambodian cuisine.

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Of course, Cambodia has a lot more to offer beyond its most famous attraction, with plenty of notable cities, beaches, nature, and wildlife areas throughout the country. As most of the tourism centers on Angkor Wat and Siem Reap, you’ll have more relaxed experiences in capital Phnom Penh, in smaller towns, and along most of its coastline.

Chile

Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons
Photo Credit: Wikimedia Commons

Did you miss the total solar eclipse in the US in 2017? I saw the partial eclipse from the roof of my office building, but after hearing others’ accounts of witnessing the complete darkness (or totality), I definitely want to see that for myself. In July of 2019, there is another total solar eclipse coming this time to South America, and many consider Chile to be the best viewing spot. If you’d like to go, now is the time to plan for it.

Georgia

The country of Georgia is probably the item that has been highest on my bucket list for the longest, without me actually having visited yet. So, why go? Like many former Soviet republics, a lot of its wonders were hidden from most of the world during the second half of the twentieth century, but there is so much to entice tourists to this nation bordering the Black Sea.

Georgian Wine Flight from Georgia at Supra Restaurant Washington DC Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180303_201252

Georgia has an 8,000 year (!!) history of winemaking, the longest of any country. Once known as the “Tuscany of the Soviet Union,” for decades Russia was Georgia’s main wine consumer, but in recent decades since the break up of the Soviet Union, its wine is more readily available to everyone else. There are incredible monasteries to check out, many of which also produce wine. And like any good wine culture, the food is also amazing.

Food from Georgia at Supra Restaurant Washington DC Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180303_203225

Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC
Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC

I recently enjoyed Georgian food and wine at a local restaurant, and I’m even more obsessed than before!

Norway

Lysefjord Norway Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC00560

Even if you’ve never been to Norway, you’ve probably heard about its dramatic fjords and natural beauty. Sure, you can be a tourist and stick to the cities, but this really is a destination suited to a traveler who enjoys the great outdoors. In summer, boat cruises in the fjords abound. On land, whether its taking a funicular up to enjoy some sweeping views, or hiking up to the same spot, it is stunningly beautiful to take in. In winter, there is snowy exploring, from seeing polar bears in the wild to a chance at viewing the Northern Lights.

Like the rest of Scandinavia, Norway is probably a bit pricey compared to where you currently live, however if you’re planning on a lot of hiking your costs can be kept pretty reasonable. Plus, there are many discount air carriers that go, so transport costs can be quite affordable as well.

The up side of Norway for tourists – like any Scandinavian destination – is that the country is quite safe and English is widely spoken.

Norwegian Waffle Bar Barista Bergen Norway Top Travel Destinations of 2019 20180929_152304

The biggest surprise for me on my recent visit was the food. There are the fun, heart-shaped Norwegian waffles and some upscale, Michelin-starred options in the major cities, especially the nature-adjacent oil city of Stavanger.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

TIP! Just be conscious of the seasons when you plan your trip, as the warm period is pretty limited to June-August, depending on where exactly in Norway you’re headed.

(Any City) USA

It used to be that America’s smaller cities did not have much to offer the well-traveled visitor, but I’ve noticed quite a change in recent years. With restaurant trends toward locally-inspired products and more and more people identifying as “foodies,” even off-the-beaten-path cities can be excellent travel destinations with ample delicious dining options for a weekend of exploring.

I’ve been pleasantly surprised myself in places like…

Boise, Idaho

Charlottesville, Virginia

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQmk07grgO/

Detroit, Michigan

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZ9XSrjHLPk/

I hear great things about…

Asheville, North Carolina
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

And there are plenty of other American cities out there with increasingly more to offer any tourist, and I always find it fun to explore places before they become too popular with other travelers.

READ MORE: How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia

READ MORE: Fun Facts: Things to Know about Detroit Before You Visit

This year’s list of new spots is shorter than in previous years, but that’s because so many of my past recommendations are still so timely.

Here are 5 of the destinations I’ve featured previously that are also excellent choices for 2019 travel:

Australia

Featured Opera House Sydney Australia Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0630

This country/continent has been a great value destination recently and is even more so for the coming year. There has been a recent further dip in currency, which is bad for my bank account, but great value for travelers who’ve been hesitant about visiting due to cost.

READ MORE: 10 Things to Know about Kangaroos Before You Visit Australia

READ MORE: The Best Tour of the Sydney Opera House

READ MORE: 12 Things to Expect on a Visit to Perth

READ MORE: Best Eating While Camping in WA’s Southern Forests

Belize

Belize Mayan Ruins Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0786

This Central American gem from the 2018 list continues to be one of the safest and easiest (English-speaking!) travel options in that part of the world.

READ MORE: 9 Reasons to Make Belize Your Next Travel Destination

READ MORE: Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave

READ MORE: Fun Facts: Things to Know about Belize Before You Visit

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

Liechtenstein

Liechtenstein Castle Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0545

This micro-nation (from the 2017 list) is celebrating its tricentennial – its 300th anniversary! – this year and will also have a host of special events taking place like some of the other destinations above. It’s an easy add-on if you’re already planning to visit Innsbruck (Austria), Munich (Germany), or Zurich (Switzerland).

READ MORE: Visiting Liechtenstein: A Perfect Weekend Getaway

Oman

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Muscat Oman Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0739

This is another 2017 list pick that is already popping up on many other travel lists this year and continues to be a hot spot for discovering an authentic slice of the Middle East.

READ MORE: Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

READ MORE: Ways Hospitality in Oman Will Wow You

READ MORE: 9 Reasons Why a Road Trip Is The Best Way to See Oman

Plovdiv (Bulgaria)

Theater2 Plovdiv Bulgaria Top Travel Destinations of 2019 DSC_0265

Bulgaria made my 2017 list of Top Travel Destinations, and it’s making a return appearance because my favorite city there, Plovdiv, has been designated a 2019 European Capital of Culture. Not only is it an ancient Roman city with plenty of ruins to explore, food in Plovdiv is delicious, and some of Bulgaria’s excellent wine country is nearby. Take advantage of the area especially catering to tourists and providing countless special events by visiting this year.

READ MORE: 11 Incredible Reasons to Visit Plovdiv, Bulgaria

READ MORE: Best Light Shows Around the World

Certainly there is no shortage of amazing destinations to seek out, regardless of what kind of trip you’re after. What I find to be the most important thing is to make a plan for a year of travel early on, so the months don’t slip by without taking a trip.

Get inspired. And then get out there!

See all of my past annual travel destination recommendations here:

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

READ MORE: Top 10 Travel Destinations for 2017

I still stand by them all.

Happy travels in the new year, everyone!!

What destinations are inspiring you for 2019 travel? Anywhere I missed that would be a great destination this year? What travel do you already have planned for 2019? Let me know more in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Top Travel Destinations of 2019 pinkTop Travel Destinations of 2019 yellow

Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

The only way to know good gelato is by trying lots of it and getting your taste buds accustomed to the nuances of this frozen delight – and don’t worry, I did a lot of “research” about where to locate the best gelato in Italy during the three years I lived there. And of course, on my recent return visit.

Let’s just say that I’ve had A LOT of gelato.

And as you enjoy as much gelato as I have, it becomes easier and easier with time to pick out the best spots.

READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

I’ve organized my recommendations by city, presented alphabetically, but you’ll notice that I didn’t include every town I’ve visited or even every gelateria I’ve liked. Only the gelato spots that I found served a really superlative product made this round-up.

The best gelato in Italy can be found in tourist centers as often as off-the-beaten-path spots, but there is a taste that gives you pause and delights with intense flavor and smoothness at all of the locations I’ve listed.

So go ahead, find excellent gelato and treat yourself daily – just like the Italians do!

More About Gelato in Italy

The Basics.

Gelato comes from the Italian word for frozen, but let’s be clear, gelato is not just “Italian ice cream.” It is a very discerning product made with a different process and a different philosophy, which is what makes the end result so memorable.

Proper gelato is served a bit warmer than traditional ice cream, so it is less likely to make your teeth hurt or get an ice cream headache, but this higher temperature is also one of the key parts that contributes to the flavor and texture that makes gelato so delicious – more on both below.

There’s a lot you can tell on sight as well. Many of the places with the best gelato will keep it inside opaque metal canisters, and really good gelato does not stay in those intricate mounds that many of the tourist spots will feature.

And where do you find your gelato in Italy? At a gelateria, of course!

first gelato Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

Flavor.

Gelato is also unique because it aims to capture seasonal ingredients at peak freshness.

So while your favorite flavor may not be available depending on when you’re in Italy, gelato flavors you may not like in other places are likely to be exceptional when you go. The two flavors that are universally delicious when you’re in Italy are some of the most local – pistachio (which comes from Sicily) and hazelnut, or nocciola (from the northern Piedmont region).

The intensity of gelato is also related to the churning process, which means less air inside compared to ice cream, leading to bolder, more concentrated flavors. And that warmer serving temperature also has that flavor intensifying effect.

Texture.

Gelato is churned differently from ice cream too, going at a slower pace that results in less air getting mixed in and a denser product. The combination of its composition and warmer temperature leads to the elasticity that gives you that perfectly smooth texture as you savor each concentrated bite.

Even if the flavors are wonderful, anything less than a creamy texture will take away from the gelato experience.

It’s good for you!

No, really! Okay, maybe not quite, but you may be surprised with the density and concentrated flavors of gelato that it actually has fewer calories than ice cream. Gelato tends to use more milk than cream and does not involve egg yolks like many ice creams, so there is also less fat involved.

So go ahead, indulge.

Gelato Etiquette.

Honestly, this is probably not much different than your ice cream experience in other countries. It’s completely acceptable to ask for a taste of a few flavors before you decide what to buy, even if there’s a huge line building up behind you.

The size of your gelato will determine how many different flavors you can get. Typically this is well-signed and you’ll see different size cups displayed at the top of the counter, with both the price and number of gusti, or flavors, indicated. In general, a “small” allows you to pick 2 gusti and you’ll need to get at least a “medium” sized one to enjoy 3 different ones.

Also, be ready to state whether you’ll be having your gelato in a cup (coppetta) or cone (cono).

Every gelateria does things its own way, so even if you get a cup, you may be lucky enough to get a mini cone or wafer stuck on top:Cone Florence Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy IMG_20180418_175732

Wafer Milan Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy 20160507_191601

Fortunately for all of us, gelaterie deal in volume, so this is a relatively inexpensive snack that won’t break your budget. An afternoon gelato is part of the daily ritual for many Italians, and it can easily be part of yours when you visit.

Like coffee in Italy, you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised about how cheap it is compared to ice cream at home. In most places it costs only 2.50-3 for a small-sized gelato, often going up in increments of just 50 centesimi, or cents – half a Euro.

TIP! Buying gelato is a great time to spend some of the pile of Euro coins you’ve likely accumulated during your visit!

The Best Gelato in Italy – by City

So, let’s get down to it, where do you go for the best spots that aren’t just catering to tourist whims but producing authentic, seasonal, bold, and smooth gelato?

Bergamo

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

I don’t usually find my favorite gelateria right on the central square, but this spot on the Piazza Vecchia of Bergamo’s elevated upper city delivers. Fruit flavors are super intense with just the right balance to not be too tart or sweet, and the creamy flavors are perfectly smooth. Fancier places will dot your stroll from the funicular or city gate, but it’s worth waiting until you get here to order an afternoon gelato.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Bergamo

Bologna

Cremeria Funivia

I didn’t fall in love with Bologna my first trip, but this was one of the outstanding places that helped change my mind on a return visit. Yes, the gelato really is that delicious. Like many of the spots on this list, they offer both traditional and more inventive flavors, but everything really is outstanding and hits that incredible balance of flavor and texture.

Como

Como Gelateria Lariana Lake Como Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

Gelateria Lariana

There are many similar-looking gelato shops along the shore of Lake Como, but this is the only one I return to again and again. Despite its touristy location, the many locals who also stop in tell you that this is just delicious gelato. It is easy to spot with the many people hanging around or stopping to sit outside as they enjoy what I imagine for many is part of their daily routine.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como

Florence

Gelateria Carraia

Gelato is all about the freshness of the ingredients, and this gelateria calls itself artisanal for a reason. Lots of top gelato lists include this spot as the best in Florence, and I definitely agree. Stroll to the far side of the Arno River from the historical center and don’t be dissuaded by the line you’re likely to encounter. This gelato – especially any one of their signature flavors – is worth the wait!

READ MORE: Where to Eat: Best Bites (& Sips) in Florence, Italy

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence

Mantua

Mantua Gelateria Loggetta San Gimignano Gelateria Dondoli Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy IMG_20180421_153204

Gelateria Loggetta

You’ll see the signs proclaiming the many accolades this gelateria has received, and one taste will have you convinced as well that the awards are well-deserved. It is just so spot on when it comes to flavors and textures. And you’ll have the occasional experimental flavor thrown in with classics done very well.

Milan

Milan Ciacco Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy IMG_20180422_142252

Ciacco

There are now a couple of Milan locations of this spot (plus ones in Bergamo and Parma), but after 3 years of living in Milan, I had to put my favorite Milano gelateria in the Milan section, of course. You won’t have to venture far to locate the main Milan outpost just a short stroll from the main Cathedral, Milan’s Duomo.  The standards are done exceptionally well, with bold pops of flavor and silky smooth texture you’ll want to savor. There are usually a few seasonal creative flavors to enjoy as well. Possibly my all-time favorite flavor was a savory squash one I enjoyed my last autumn living there:

Milan Ciacco Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy 20161217_183323

Il Massimo del Gelato

Are you a chocolate lover? Then this is your gelato heaven. Named the ultimate or maximum (massimo) of gelato, the flavors do not disappoint. In addition to the fruit and nut flavors you’d expect, there are also usually close to a dozen of variations just of chocolate, from different types of chocolate, to mixtures involving orange or different liqueurs. And it’s even better than you’re imagining right now!

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Rome

Rome Gelateria dei Gracchi Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy 20160928_180954Rome Gelateria dei Gracchi Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy 20161001_180902

Gelateria Dei Gracchi

Rome has no shortage of gelato places, so when one is doing well enough to expand to multiple locations, you know it’s delicious. There are several flavors that you won’t find at most spots, but my hands-down favorite is the crema di pinoli, the cream of pine nuts which is perfectly flavored and velvety to devour. Get in line with the local families taking their children after school and find out why it’s their go-to spot in Rome, too.

Rome Fatamorgana Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy 20150927_175546

Fatamorgana Gelato

Many of the gelato flavors you’ll find at Fatamorgana are inventive, from savory flavors to spices and herbs being mixed with your more typical chocolate or fruit base. Sure, there are the more usual flavors here, but many Fatamorgana branches are frequented by locals looking for something that is creative without sacrificing what makes gelato so delicious. It’s not the only creative gelateria I’ve sampled in Rome, but it’s the only one that also creates that perfect gelato texture with its more unusual ingredients.

READ MORE: Best Bites – Where to Eat in Rome

San Gimignano

San Gimignano Gelateria Dondoli Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy DSC_0081

Gelateria Dondoli

There are two very popular gelato spots on the same piazza in San Gimignano – and both are likely to have lines out the door! Don’t worry though, Dondoli is the one you want. The queue moves fast and you will be treated to some incredibly creative, strong flavors and a silky smooth texture regardless of the flavor you choose. This Gelateria is known for its signature flavors, like the Crema di Santa Fina (with saffron cream and pine nuts) and Champelmo (pink grapefruit and sparkling wine).  The view as you enjoy your gelato is pretty great, too:

San Gimignano Gelateria Dondoli Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy IMG_20180419_163302

Venice

Venice Suso Gelatoteca San Gimignano Gelateria Dondoli Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy 20160917_164214

Gelatoteca Suso

Venice is probably my least favorite major Italian city for gelato, but the best of all the ones I’ve tried is definitely this spot. The flavors are strong and each bite is smooth to savor, even though visually it looks less smooth than the other place I’ve featured. I also love it for serving gelato with one of its branded wafers, even when you get gelato in a cup.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice

READ MORE: Venice Cheat Sheet

Verona

Gelateria Savoia

Keeping locals happy in Verona since 1939, this historical gelateria continues to be the go-to spot for locals and with good reason. It is central and in a high-end location, giving just a touch of luxury, and has a wide list of flavors and other sweet treats to keep everyone satisfied.

READ MORE: Visiting Verona – A Romantic Getaway for Valentine’s Day

Gelato may be more complex than you expected, but the good news is that great gelato comes down to two key things – flavor and texture. And given the frequent gelato consumption by Italians, all it takes is a conversation with any locals to get directed to the best gelateria nearby. As good as Italian food is, it’s always worth saving just a little bit of room for this afternoon (or evening) snack.

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Did your favorite gelato in Italy make this list? What other gelato spots do you recommend for my next visit? Is there anything else you look for in a great gelato? I’m always looking to expand my gelato horizons =)

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Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

How to Enjoy Milan for the Holidays

How to Enjoy Milan for the Holidays

The first week of December in Milan is essentially the start of the Christmas season. The Feast of Saint Ambrose, Milan’s patron saint, is a public holiday on December 7th, followed by the national holiday for the Feast of the Immaculate Conception the very next day. And then the Christmas season extends until Epiphany, which doesn’t take place until January 6th.

In a country where nearly 90% of the population is not just Christian, but Catholic, obviously these church holidays throughout Italy shape the month of December and into the new year. And as the weather chills, the smell of roasting chestnuts reaches you as you stroll down the central streets and there are stands selling a steaming cup of mulled wine, or vin brulee. Signs that it is time to get into the holiday spirit!

Here are some special events to experience in Milan during the holiday season:

Christmas Markets

The big square, or piazza, in front of Milan’s Duomo (the main cathedral) is filled with row after row of vendors selling Christmas-related items starting at the beginning of December, as are the public gardens, or Giardini Pubblici. A variety of crafts and foods are on sale to help you find gifts for the holidays, but there are also food items for immediate consumption to help keep your energy up as you shop. Christmas markets in Europe are a destination unto themselves!

lartigiano-in-fiera

L’Artigiano in Fiera

Loosely meaning artisanal goods in a festival or fair, this is hands-down the favorite market I’ve been to in Europe. The first thing to know is that it is massive, beyond what you could imagine if you’ve never been to a large-scale convention on the continent. It completely takes over Milan’s newer convention center, which is so large that its footprint lies at the very end of the red metro line as it could not be accommodated in the city. And L’Artigiano in Fiera features handmade goods, crafts, furniture, scarves, trinkets, you-name-it from all over the world.

Giant convention halls are devoted to a single continent or region, with stalls as far as the eye can see, and of course there are tons of food stalls and restaurants intermixed, with the best examples of Italian and ethnic foods you could hope for. Giant baguette? Check. A black truffle for 10? Check. A fresh round of Tête de Moine cheese from Switzerland? Check. Candied ginger from Asia? Check. It’s a wonderland for the serious foodie, and boasts the best selection of holiday gift options you may ever come across. It runs during the first two weekends in December, including the weekdays in between, which will be the far less crowded times to visit.

oh-bej-oh-bej

Feast of Saint Ambrose & Oh Bej! Oh Bej! Market

Not only is this the local Milan holiday for the city’s patron saint with associated religious celebrations, but there is also a giant market called Oh Bej! Oh Bej! that takes place in and around the Sforza Castle from December 7th (the Feast day) through the following Sunday. The curved road around the castle becomes pedestrian-only and fills with locals doing holiday shopping or simply coming to eat their way through the predominantly Italian snacks and street food available at the many stands. Even if you’re not looking for anything particular, there is such a variety of goods, from artwork to kitchenware to fresh spices to jewelry that even without making a purchase you’ll be entertained for several hours.

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Babbo Running

Babbo is the name affectionately given by the Italian to the man you may know better as Santa Claus. So yes, Babbo Running is just as fun to watch as you might imagine. Taking place in mid-late December, this run to benefit charity usually has its course around the same Sforza Castle area that hosts the Oh Bej! Oh Bej! market described above. And the runners? All dressed in Santa costumes!

Christmas Midnight Mass at the Duomo

Although many Milanesi will be on vacation over the holidays, those who remain in the city may opt for attending midnight mass at the iconic Gothic cathedral, the Duomo. If you plan to attend, be sure to arrive when the doors open at 10:30pm to secure a seat. The mass typically begins at 11:30pm on Christmas Eve, December 24th.

nye

New Year’s Eve Concert in Piazza Duomo

While there are New Year’s Eve events all over town, one of the popular outdoor events is the several-hours long free concert in the giant square in front of the Duomo cathedral, leading up to the countdown at midnight. It’s also totally legal to have open bottles of alcohol with you on the street, which many people celebrating will bring along (do note however, that if you have any glass bottles you’ll need to stay outside the barricade – where you can still hear and enjoy the concert, of course).

TIP! If you spend New Year’s Eve in Milan, watch out for the people setting off fireworks in the streets if you’re doing any walking between parties or back at the end of the night.

And while you’re in Milan for the holidays…

Traditional Food & Drink

In addition to the mulled wine (vin brulee) and roasted chestnuts available from street vendors throughout the city, there is a typical Milanese holiday dessert that is not to be missed – panettone. Panettone is a large, airy, yellow bread studded with candied fruit. Markets will sometimes have them in miniature size, or you can even find panettone from the large loaf available by the slice. And if you’d like the version without the candied pieces inside, just ask for Pandoro.

       READ MORE: Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

 

What local traditions help you to get into the holiday spirit?  If you’ve been to Milan for the holidays, anything else I should have recommended?  Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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How to Enjoy Milan Italy for the Holidays

Fun Facts: Things to Know about Belize Before You Visit

Fun Facts: Things to Know about Belize Before You Visit

Usually I’m a planner. I learn about a new city or an event happening in a country I’ve never been, and add it to my Bucket List for a future visit.

In the case of Belize, I had overlooked it during my Solo Trip to Mexico in 2009 since it was a bit outside of my backpacker budget to do a quick trip there and back from the Yucatan. And I hadn’t really thought about it much since then until I was starting a new board on Pinterest and was intrigued by all of the outdoor adventure activities and beautiful beaches.

So when I had a week open up in May for a trip, I ignored the budget flights to Iceland and Europe and impulsively went in a new direction – Belize!

I only booked my flights two weeks in advance, so it was a bit of scramble to get things planned for my time there and I didn’t have the opportunity to do my typical advance reading to prepare for a trip. Which made the trip even more exciting as I discovered all of these quirks and local sayings and particular history of the region.

Here’s what I discovered:

Belizeans sure love their flag. You’ll see it proudly displayed pretty much everywhere you go.

And Jesus, too. Not only are Christian religious symbols prominently displayed outside homes and businesses, but there are also large signs with the ten commandments written out that you’ll also see in a lot of different spots around the country.

The Ten Commandments Things to Know About Belize Before You Go 20170515_080414 (2)

Bus Stations really are an incredible crossroads…

In Belize, the bus station accepted 4 types of currency! To be fair, both the Belizean dollar and US dollar can be used to pay for anything around the country, but you can also use Mexican and Guatemalan currency there if you need to.

Even the bus station vendors have hot sauce available. It really is the universal condiment around Belize, but I was still amazed at its presence next to the pre-cooked food already divided into different take away baggies.

Street Food stands at bus station with Marie Sharp's hot sauce Above ground coffins at cemetery Things to Know About Belize Before You Go20170508_115008

Everyone can tell you where and when next bus is leaving. There was no information booth that I saw (although any tourist office can help with bus schedules). But equally reliable? Asking any Belizean hanging out at the bus stop when the next bus will be. They’ll give you times, tell you whether it’s local or express, how much it will costs, & which area it leaves from. Just incredible!

It’s a small enough country to have some national standards…

Like Marie Sharp’s hot sauce. Marie started her company in Belize back in the early 1980s and she has already been inducted into the Hot Sauce Hall of Fame. And it is her Belizean brand that is the standard that you will see at street food stands and on restaurant tables – unless there is a homemade version.

Marie Sharp's Hot Sauce on Every Table Things to Know About Belize Before You Go 20170510_080547 (2)

Or Belikin, Belize’s national beer. If you ask for a “beer,” you’ll get the Belikin standard brew. If you ask for a “stout” or a “lager” you’ll get the Belikin version of those styles. Any other beer you must ask for by name.

Belikin Beer Things to Know About Belize Before You Go 20170511_213022

Beers are smaller! You’ll notice that Belikin beer comes in 250 mL bottles, which is just small enough compared to the standard 330 mL bottle of beer that you will notice the difference!

You might experience a 4-bath day when you go. If you’ve ever heard of the expression (or musical band) ‘three dog night,’ this is a similar notion. A three dog night refers to a cold night out in the Australian outback, when you have to cuddle up with 3 dingoes (the dogs) to stay warm. A 4-bath day in Belize . . . that’s a hot and sweaty one.

Houses are colorful. There is something about the tropics that lends itself to brightly colored houses. You’ll see plenty of these around Belize, including many in a shade I started calling ‘Belizean blue’ because you’ll see that exact shade in so many places.

Houses are Colorful Things to Know About Belize Before You Go DSC_0704Belizean Blue Things to Know About Belize Before You Go DSC_0435

Buses are the way to go for some local flavor . . .
Repurposed American schoolbuses are the main mode of transportation. Different companies may paint the outside in different colors, but the inside is the same school bus with benches set up you may know from your childhood. And just like back then, the seats get sticky in the heat and there is no air conditioning. But it’s definitely the most affordable way to travel Belize while getting a taste for how the locals live.

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And they’ll play music very loudly. Buses may be the cheapest way to get around, but they’re certainly not the most serene. Most of the ones I traveled on had upbeat music playing quite loudly for most or all of the ride. I wasn’t sure if this was a strategy to keep people happy and quiet, but that certainly seemed to be the effect.

Non-express buses will stop at pretty much any point along the route. This is a great convenience for anyone who lives off-the-beaten-path, but you can imagine how much time all of these stops will add on to your trip. There’s a reason the express buses are a bit pricier.

Some unexpected foods you’ll find everywhere. There are Caribbean and Latin American specialties and their variations, but there’s also an abundance of banana bread and fried chicken. Who knew?

But in general you’ll find the best local specialties at street food stands. Whether it’s seeking out the best rice and beans (look for a giant pot) or getting salbutes fried to order, the flavors you get at the street food stands outpace any brick-and-mortar restaurant I visited.

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     READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

Expect that you’ll frequently be all by yourself with relics. Sure, there was someone staffing the booth when you bought your admission ticket to the museum or archaeological site. But chances are that as you explore the rooms with the priceless artifacts, or even the pyramids, you’ll be all on your own.

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And that there’ll be almost no safety measures for climbing all those Mayan pyramids. I scaled my fair share of pyramids during my week-plus in country, and there were very few handrails or markers for dangerous sections or to prevent you from falling off the top. A local shared that the vast ruins of Xunatunich only had railings put in just last year – and only 2 of them across a huge area! Tread carefully.

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Belizeans are genuinely friendly. They’ll chat you up on the street and then share their favorite local spot for a meal. Not for a monetary tip, but just to welcome you to their beautiful country.

Simone Biles is the most beloved athlete. Maybe it was my visiting within a year of the Rio Olympics, but although there are Belizeans who have somewhat “made it” in professional sports, American gymnast Simone Biles (who is of Belizean descent) is the true star if you ask any local.

Belize City is not the capital. I guess I spent my childhood gazing longingly at an outdated globe, because even though the capital city shifted to centrally-located Belmopan back in 1970, I had it in my head that it was Belize City until my visit. Oops.

Cemeteries have above-ground coffins. Like many of the houses and buildings in Belize, cemeteries are colorful places. And instead of burying the dead, I saw plots with elevated coffins where relatives come to pay their respects.

Above ground coffins at cemetery Things to Know About Belize Before You Go DSC_0004Above ground coffins at cemetery Things to Know About Belize Before You Go DSC_0009

English reigns supreme . . .
More currency with Queen Elizabeth. If you travel a lot, you’ve probably seen her face on quite a lot of currency by now. Formerly known as British Honduras, Belize is still part of the British Commonwealth.

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It’s not just lip service though, the Queen came for a visit! Queen Elizabeth II has visited Belize twice – one in the mid-1980s, another time in the mid-1990s. Of course, the part of her visit that people referenced the most during my trip was when she ate a local rodent whose meat is considered a delicacy, the gibnut, now also nicknamed the ‘Royal Rat.’

Everyone speaks English and takes US dollars. I feel like some travelers harbor fear of foreign countries due to the language barrier. Perhaps a fear of not being able to make yourself understood? In any case, there’s no need to worry in Belize as everyone speaks English. And you can pay with US dollars anywhere, even in small towns or on local buses (although you’ll often get change in BZD, with 2 Belize dollars equaling $1).

Visitors Centers are mostly in English. Although there are quite a lot of Spanish speakers around, interestingly the Visitors Centers I popped into seemed to cater exclusively to English speakers. That said, they were quite helpful.

Some expected groups….
Maya tribes still exist. For some reason I always lumped the Maya in my head with the now-extinct Aztec and Inca Empires. However while the Maya experienced a decline, their culture and traditions continue on across Belize and some nearby countries. I got my most personal experience on a tour of a Mayan chocolate producer, carrying on the traditions of many centuries ago.

And some unexpected ones…
The Chinese. Originally brought to Belize from China as laborers, many of those original Chinese stayed. Today there is also a more recent influx of Chinese looking to build businesses and wealth, or to use Belize as a stepping stone for ultimate relocation to the United States.

Mennonites. It was a surprise when I spotted my first Mennonite family in Belize – the wife in a bonnet and long dress & the husband in denim overalls with a wide-brimmed straw hat. Just like in other places, they also shun technology in Belize and focus on hard work and farming the land.

Belize has the lowest population density in Central America. There are a lot of natural reserves and open, lush swaths of green as you make your way across the country. Enjoy!

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And it’s a peace-loving country, one of the few in the region that has not had a civil war. You may associate Central America with some violent conflicts, but it is a point of pride in Belize that handover of power has been a peaceful affair.

Belize also boasts the second-largest barrier reef in the world, after Australia’s Great Barrier Reef. The reef system is just off the coast along most of the country, and is so lengthy that even Charles Darwin was impressed. Opportunities to snorkel and scuba dive abound.

Like anywhere I’ve ever visited, Belize has a bunch of quirks that come with any country, along with some pretty impressive products and traditions and diversity for such a small nation.

    READ MORE: 9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination!

But Belize also had so many things that surprised me along the way – I was already jotting down some observations on my first taxi ride from the airport to the bus station!

What’s the most interesting thing you learned about a place while visiting? Anything else you discovered about Belize if you’ve traveled there? Or anything else you’d like to know before you go? Share away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Fun Facts - Things to Know About Belize Before You Go

Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

Israeli cuisine is quite varied, but mostly local, so when a specific restaurants stands out for me, it’s really something special. Living there, I shopped for fresh produce at the shuk (market), bought my pita in stacks of ten several times a week, and mostly cooked at home. And with such fresh ingredients – the fruits and vegetables are at the peak of ripeness – you don’t need to do much to make them taste amazing. Not surprisingly, salads and spreads made from this excellent produce constitute a good part of the Israeli diet. And in the case of most of the local specialties that comprise my ‘foodie bucket list’ when I visit these days, these typical foods are available nearly everywhere, and every neighborhood has its best local place to consume them. If asked, any two Israelis are likely to argue over the best falafel spot down the street or which restaurant serves up the best shakshuka.

So in an environment like this, how did I possibly compose a list of “best” places to eat and drink across the country?

There are a small number of traditional and experimental foods and drinks that have made such an impression on me that I can still recall my meal in great detail. Some single flavor combination that is so spot-on or well-balanced. Or a unique ambiance that enhances great food and drink all the more. Or a basic establishment that serves such standout dishes that I want to come back for a return visit – and I have!

These are my best bites and sips. Israeli restaurants, cafes, and bars that I would come back to again and again (and probably will on my next visit):

Acre/Akko

Uri Buri

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The meal I savored here still counts as one of the most epic tasting menus I’ve ever consumed. The philosophy is that they’ll keep bringing out specialty dishes of the house until you’ve decided that you’ve had enough for one night. Not a budget endeavor, but completely worth it for the cozy atmosphere in an old stone building and the whimsical and enticing dishes that exit the kitchen one after another. It was one of the first dishes that were served – a salmon sashimi with wasabi gelato – that really set the tone for me that I would be in for a special evening delighting my foodie tastebuds. While Uri Buri is a fish restaurant, it is not kosher (so will serve up shellfish), although there is also the option to dine a la carte if that’s a concern. And if you’re lucky, you’ll get a view of Uri Buri himself in the kitchen and greeting diners. He looks a bit like Santa Claus with a long white beard and lots of jolly laughter, so you’ll know it’s him if you see him. Only such joy could produce food this good.

Haifa

Fattoush

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On the main street in Haifa that leads to the Baha’i Temple is this wonderland of Middle Eastern culinary specialties, with enough options to satisfy anyone’s appetite. There are ample vegetarian dishes and more meat dishes than you can imagine. Plus, you can’t beat eating inside the quaint courtyard on a beautiful day. Make sure to leave room for dessert and get their tahini ice cream – a frozen delight based on the sesame spread – something you’re not likely to be able to enjoy anywhere else.

Jerusalem

Gatsby Cocktail Room

Gatsby Cocktail Room Jerusalem Israel 20151205_182829 (2)Gatsby Cocktail Room Jerusalem Israel 20151205_185436 (2)

I’ve had my fair share of cocktails during my time living in and visiting Israel, however the one that stands out in my mind I enjoyed at Gatsby. It’s a speakeasy on par with any I’ve been to in the world, bringing creativity and whimsy to its well-balanced creations. Being a speakeasy of course, it’s a bit tricky to find. To the right of the entrance to the Aroma Cafe is an unmarked door. Entering will bring you to a room where someone will be there to swing the bookcase open (!!) and let you inside. I was able to get in right when they opened on a Saturday after Shabbat ended, but in general reservations are recommended.

Machane Yehuda Market

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This market has been around Jerusalem for around a century, with countless vendor stalls selling all of the local specialties you could dream of, from bourekas to halva to baklava. It’s a great spot to pick up goodies for a picnic meal, or food for over the Sabbath from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown, when many restaurants in Jerusalem are closed. Relatively recently, the market after hours has also become a destination, especially for the younger Jerusalemites. There are a ton of sit-down restaurants of local and global cuisine that make this area a nightlife hub once the daytime vendors have closed shop for the evening. If you’ve never been, I’d check out the market both during the day and again in the evening to fully appreciate all it has to offer.

Marzipan Bakery

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A spot not far from Machane Yehuda Market (see above), no visit to Israel is complete without rugelach, a chocolately rolled mini-pastry, as prepared here. Bold words, but I absolutely mean it and am not alone – many foreigners make Marzipan their final travel stop before heading to the airport so they can take fresh rugelach home for loved ones. You’ll want to be sure to go when you’re in Jerusalem, too.

Tmol Shilshom

I’ve been coming to this bookstore/cafe for nearly two decades. And it’s just as charming as it was on the day I first wandered down an alleyway off Jerusalem’s touristy downtown pedestrian area and entered its cozy interior. Its shakshuka has been named one of the 10 best breakfasts in the world by Lonely Planet and its evening fare consists of the typical light, yet filling dishes you’d find at a cafe. Even as a teenager, I appreciated this oasis in the middle of an otherwise chaotic part of town, especially in the evenings. And sitting in plush chairs among the bookshelves just has a way of making you feel at home.

Tel Aviv/Jaffa

Hummus Habayit

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In a teeny outpost on Allenby Street sits this self-proclaimed ‘House of Hummus’ serving up delicious plates of hummus with some of the friendliest service you’ll find in all of Israel. Here, the hummus is the main event, to be slowly enjoyed by ripping off small chunks of pita and swirling it through the plate of hummus. It’s a relaxing ritual, and you’ll want to eat slowly and savor all your bites at this spot that claims to be No. 2 in all of Israel. Number 1 according to the chef? Your first hummus ever. After that, this is the spot to go.

The Old Man and the Sea

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Named after the Ernest Hemingway novel of the same name, this restaurant has been around Tel Aviv for a while and boasts multiple branches, although the one in the port city of Old Jaffa has the best view. Come with a group of friends if you can, as your table will be covered with salads and spreads to devour, and that’s even before your fish arrives. The food is great, the atmosphere makes it.

Sabich Frishman

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Okay, so sabich may be my new Israeli food obsession. This pita stuffed with fried eggplant, hard-boiled egg, and a range of vegetables and condiments has all the ingredients and balance that for me make a perfect bite. And the version you’ll get at Sabich Frishman is considered by many to be the best in Tel Aviv, possibly in all of Israel. There is likely to be a line snaking out the door at most hours as locals line up. I like mine with cheese, all the vegetables and condiments, and a bit of spicy sauce, but you can just let them know when they efficiently take your order at the front.

Have you been to any of these spots? Any place I should have included that’s not listed? Any other questions about eating out in Israel? Let me know in the Comments!

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Best Places to Eat & Drink

Costa Rican Coffee Tradition: The Chorreador

Costa Rican Coffee Tradition: The Chorreador

I’m an atypical coffee aficionado. Most coffee fiends I know were downing multiple cups of joe as a high school student, or at least by the time they graduated high school.

Me? Despite being an academic overachiever and prolific procrastinator (I pulled all-nighters starting in high school), I made it through college and several years into the workforce without much in the way of caffeine, aside from the occasional chai tea latte.

And then I started teaching.

Teaching high school, involving early wake-ups (I’m not a morning person), then exhausting days on my feet followed by evenings of lesson planning and grading papers, for me meant sleeping only around 5 hours each night. And while I can function on such minimal sleep, I am not at my best always, and that is when coffee became a regular part of my morning routine. So much so that my barista would have my usual drink ready by the time I reached the front of the line and we would greet each other warmly on the street by name when we ran into each other.

In my late 20s, I finally learned how to make coffee and bought my first drip coffee machine (if you are an American buying your first coffee machine, it’s probably for drip coffee). Of course, coffee at home also usually involved a generous spoonful of sweetened vanilla syrup and possibly even sugar on top of that. Let’s just say I was not the most sophisticated coffee drinker when I first started out.

In the years since, I have been fortunate to live in two places with a strong coffee culture: Australia & Italy. Both countries pride themselves on the quality and particular proportions of coffee and milk involved in crafting the perfect espresso-based drink. And now I admit it – I am a full-on snob when it comes to my coffee.

These days, I also feel like I am pretty well versed in coffee brewing methods. Of course there are many trends as of late, but at home I stick to the more time-honored traditional ways. I still have my electric drip coffee maker in storage back in the US, as well as *just a few* other ways to get my jolt of caffeine in the morning:

Espresso Machine

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Moka Pot

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French Press

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Vietnamese drip coffee

Individual percolator coffee

So when I was recently in Costa Rica on my annual family vacation, I knew I would want to write a blog post afterward, but wasn’t sure what I’d describe. I had many beautiful experiences there, but I felt like they were mostly the typical things you’d imagine about travelling to Costa Rica: hiking, going to the beach, walking in the rainforest, and swimming in the natural pool at the bottom of a waterfall.

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One of the unique things that stands out in my mind, though – the coffee.

Costa Rica has its own brewing method for coffee that I only saw and heard of for the first time on my recent visit – the chorreador de café. The most basic chorreador consists of a tiny cloth bag (it sort of looks like a sock) that is filled with coffee grounds and then suspended over a coffee mug or other collection vessel, as boiling water is poured over top and the coffee drips into the cup or container. More formal chorreador devices have the cloth pouch suspended on a wooden stand, which can be quite elaborate, although having the cloth bag on some sort of basic handle to keep the top open and hold it over your mug is sufficient to make the coffee.

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Of all of the coffee brewing methods I’ve seen, I find this one unique because it can be constructed very simply and for not much money – possibly even from items you already have at home. Making coffee with a chorreador is accessible to pretty much anyone (and environmentally friendly!).

It also is not tied to any particular plug, something I am sensitive to as an expat. The US is on a different plug from Australia, which is on yet a different plug from Italy. Let’s just say that electric coffee methods are not so portable if you are someone on the go. In fact, you’ll notice above that with the exception of the espresso machine, all of the other coffee brewing methods I own are plug-independent. And in the more remote areas of Costa Rica where electricity was an issue – or still is – it is ideal to have a way to brew coffee that does not require an outside power source (and boiling the water can be done over a fire if needed).

In terms of the taste, I find that the coffee from the chorreador is earthy and more intense than your typical drip coffee, giving you an overtone of the flavor of the beans while being just slightly darker in appearance than you’d expect. It is definitely not close to espresso in taste, but I felt a similar jolt of caffeine after even just a small glass of the chorreador coffee. The most exciting thing for me was discovering a new lens through which I can experience coffee, this wonderful beverage I’ve come to appreciate in the past years.

It’s always satisfying to have something in mind before you take a trip and then fulfill it. What’s even more satisfying for me though – and one of the many reasons I love to travel – is for the even more satisfying experience of discovery and experiencing the unexpected.

 

Have you ever had coffee from a chorreador? Or Costa Rican coffee beans prepared another way? What did you think? And what’s your favorite method for brewing coffee?

How to Survive Missing Your Airline Connection

How to Survive Missing Your Airline Connection

It almost never snows in Milan. In three years of living there, I saw it snow for at most a half hour at a time – usually rain that turned into snow briefly, and then back to rain. Snowfall is typically light or non-existent each winter because most of the cold fronts and snow get trapped in the Alps not far outside of the city. The biggest accumulation I ever saw was a light dusting that lasted just long enough for me (in a brief moment of inspiration) go for a run in Sempione Park.

So last month as I was preparing for my repatriation trip to the United States, a.k.a. moving back “home,” I had a lot of mixed thoughts and emotions about the trip – but none that included a snow-related delay for my flight! I didn’t even check the weather before heading to the airport, since winter in Milan tends to hover just above freezing pretty much every day. (Although I found out later that snow was not in the forecast, so checking the weather wouldn’t have helped anyway.)

Only when I was at the airport all checked in and cleared through customs did I approach the departure gate. Which is when I first glanced outside and was quite surprised to see a sheet of white on the other side of the window. Even then I thought that it was most likely hail, and it was only when I walked closer to the glass did I realize it was snowing. And not just flurries, it was driving snow coming down hard and fast. Of course, since the first leg of my flight was the relatively short hop from Milan to London, we didn’t even have a jetbridge to stroll onto the airplane directly, but ended up boarding by taking a bus to the plane and then ascending on foot.

Getting off the shuttle bus and crossing the tarmac on foot to board the plane, I (along with all of the Milanesi) were consumed by the joy of the snowfall. Smartphones popped into everyone’s hands, with pretty much all the passengers snapping shots of the snow, the airport and the snow, and selfies boarding the plane as it’s snowing. It was such an unusual event, everyone wanted to capture it, and we passengers were all smiles as we boarded.

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It was in the moment after I took my seat that the panic and dread about my connecting flight started to set in. I had an already tight connection of barely over an hour at London Heathrow, one of the largest airports in the world. I wasted no time and flagged over the flight attendant nearly immediately. He tried to reassure me that we’d likely make up time in the air and it shouldn’t be that bad. Then the captain comes on and she starts talking about the growing line to get the plane de-iced and then the likely takeoff delays after that process. Her ballpark estimate of our delay time is a modest 20 minutes. Another flight attendant stops by and she lets me know that my outbound flight should be leaving from the same terminal where we’ll be arriving, and that as long as I clear the transfer desk 35 minutes in advance, all should be well.

But of course de-icing and even the line to start the process takes longer than expected. Then we are far back in the line of planes waiting to leave. By the time we take off, it’s almost an hour after our original departure time. Although we are supposed to make up some of that time in the air, for an unknown reasons we slow down to cross Swiss air space. We land at Heathrow nearly an hour late, so just minutes before my next flight is expected to leave. I head briskly to the transfer desk anyway and find a person who brings me to the front of the line, but when my boarding pass is scanned an unpleasant beep sounds, indicating that I am too late for the electronic gate to let me through.

At a smaller airport, or even some of the larger US ones where I’ve had tight connections before, they might hold the plane for you. Or there could be a cascade of delays, allowing you time to catch the continuing flight. At Heathrow, everything is automated and there is no way for the staff to override the built-in time limits. When my boarding pass for the transfer is rejected by the scanner, there is nothing left to try – I take a deep breath and head straight for the re-booking line.

What to Expect When You Miss Your Connection
The first thing to expect when you miss a flight, especially at a big airport like London’s Heathrow, is . . . waiting. The rush of trying to catch your flight and all of the adrenaline that is pumping through your system comes to a screeching halt as you get in line behind the other delayed and frustrated travelers in the re-booking line. I was fortunate to have been traveling in Business class (this is what happens when it’s a company-booked flight), so there was a separate re-booking line I could join. Even then, it took me nearly a half hour to reach the front of the queue and finally speak to a person.

By this time, a couple of what would have been re-booking options for me had elapsed. They could have re-routed me at that point to a far away airport in the US, but then ground transportation once I arrived would have been at my own expense to the tune of hundreds of dollars. With 3 checked bags and a carry-on, there would have been no way to take cheaper public transit options. However, staying overnight and catching the same connecting flight the following day meant that British Airways would put me up in a hotel and provide meal and transportation vouchers for free.

In the end, it made the most sense for me to simply take the flight the next day, and once that was decided it was just a matter of getting everything booked and my vouchers printed. Here’s what was involved in being put up overnight by the airline:

Phone Calls
It didn’t occur to me that I’d be able to use the airline’s phone to make an international call to the US, until the helpful staff member at the desk saw me fumbling with my Italian cell phone. Although I only made a single call, I found out later that in the European Union (EU), you are entitled to 2 phone calls or some other type of communication in the event of being re-booked (see more in the section below on the Passenger Rights).
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Hotel
I imagine that pretty much all airlines will book you at a hotel as close to the airport as possible. For me, the surprise came in that British Airways has a separate hotel for its customers traveling in Business Class. Apparently I would have ended up somewhere else if they were re-booking an Economy ticket. Either way, there seems to be particular hotels they are partnered with, and I did not get a choice about where I stayed.
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Transportation
The hotel was close to the airport, but still a bit of a drive, so the airline covered my round-trip transportation. The down side? Transportation was only covered on a specific shuttle bus, so I was subject to their schedule in both directions, and could not simply catch a ride when I was ready. Also, transportation was only covered between the airport and the hotel. When I went into downtown London to stroll around and meet a friend for dinner, that was at my own expense.
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Meal Vouchers
Since breakfast was included at the hotel, I received two meal vouchers. The first was for a “snack” and only valid at the airport. So the first thing I did after being re-booked was stay at the airport so I could get some food as I had missed lunch and was actually quite hungry at that point. My second voucher was for dinner, but again with limited validity. I could only use it at the hotel. By the point my vouchers were issued I knew it was likely I’d go into London to meet a friend for dinner, so asked if there was an alternate voucher for this. There wasn’t, so dinner ended up being at my own expense.

Luggage
This is an important one – checked luggage stays checked during the layover. So you will not have access to what’s inside your checked bags. This is one of the reasons that I’m so glad I pack my carry-on bag strategically every time I fly (see more about my essential carry-on items in the next section on How to Be Ready for Every Flight).
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Amenities Kit
You may be familiar with the amenities kit you’ll get from an airline for an overnight flight, usually with an eye mask, toothbrush, tissues, and maybe some lotion. When you are put up overnight by the airline at a hotel, it’s a slightly different collection of items. My British Airways kit contained an XL t-shirt (for the record I usually wear a small so this would have been like a dress on me), deodorant, shampoo, lotion, shaving cream, a razor, a comb, & a toothbrush with a tiny toothpaste tube. If I hadn’t been prepared, this would have been great to tide me over until the next day, but I still felt better having my own stuff. In the end, I didn’t use anything from this pack.

Immigration
I’ve even had to clear immigration for long layovers that were not delayed. Certainly in the case of a flight delay of many hours or an overnight in a different country than where you left from, you will have to be processed (plus, you’ll want to leave the airport anyway). I have Global Entry for arriving in the US, so I was not expected any new passport stamps before returning home and being able to get a new passport, as mine was almost completely full. Fortunately while the Immigration Officer made sure I wasn’t traveling anywhere else besides the UK that would require space for a stamp, he found a somewhat empty corner to place the UK stamp and let me in =)
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Passenger Rights
I wouldn’t have thought to ask for this, but the re-booking desk provided me with a copy of the Passenger Rights for the EU. Other countries have similar policies. Some of the compensation I received was specific to Europe, so be sure to request a copy of what your rights are in the country where you’ve been delayed. If a copy is not available, find it online to know what you’re entitled to get in your specific scenario.

How to Be Ready for Every Flight

Some of the reason I survived staying overnight unexpectedly in a surprise country with the greatest of ease is because I am *always* prepared for the unexpected every time I board a flight. What does this mean?

First, if you have any sort of connecting flight, be sure to book with the same airline for whole itinerary. An airline only has an obligation to help you if it one of their flights that caused you to miss the next one. Otherwise, if you are traveling on two different carriers, there is no help if you’re delayed and miss the connection. It will be your financial responsibility to sort it out.

I’ve had my luggage delayed on several occasions, this was the first time I was waylaid en route. That’s usually the contingency I’m planning for – me making it to my final destination without luggage. I’ve had my luggage delayed for anywhere from a few hours to several days, and my carry on bag is always packed with that possibility in mind.

Another general preparation tip – make sure your carry on bag makes it onto the plane with you! All of the emergency provisions you pack are only useful if you still have access to them if your luggage doesn’t make it or ends up routed to a wrong destination. To do this, I go to great lengths to make sure that the plane does not run out of overhead space before I board, requiring me to “gate check” my bag. Even it means queuing up early to board the plane.

With the “gate check” process, sometimes your bag is brought to you at the jetway to pick up and sometimes it comes out on the belt with your checked luggage (causing you to spend additional time once you arrive to retrieve it). Sometimes they tell you that your bag will come to the jetway, and you only find out at your destination that it will come out with the checked luggage instead. Again, reasons I try my best to avoid being in the situation of having to “gate check” my bag. Just in case.

Here’s what to pack in your carry-on for any “just in case” situation, whether it’s your checked bag not arriving at your destination or you needing to stay overnight unexpectedly in a strange city or country:

  • Laptop, e-reader, and other key electronics
  • Chargers for your phone & any other electronics you have with you
  • Universal plug adapter (for any international travel)
  • Basic toiletries, including toothbrush, hairbrush, & deodorant
  • Other basic items, including nail clippers, tweezers, band-aids, & a sewing kit
  • Any moisturizers or lotions, plus travel-sized shower items (for me this is shampoo, conditioner, shower gel, facewash, & body lotion) And yes, this all fits in my quart-sized bag. And then some.
  • Any medicines you might need, plus several pills of a basic pain-killer and an anti-diarrheal
  • Pajamas
  • At least 1 clean additional shirt and 1 pair of socks
  • Several clean pairs of underwear.
    Yes, even though I only bring one shirt and a pair of socks, I bring several pairs of underwear. Because other things can be dirty in a pinch if you’re delayed longer than expected (or your lost luggage takes extra time to arrive). You want your underwear to be clean.

There are a few other things that I typically have in my carry-on bag – like an umbrella – but this list is just the essentials to be sure to include for those “just in case” situations. There’s definitely space for more than this in my carry-on, with the specifics of the other contents depending on the trip.

In this particular instance, I was especially glad to have my universal adapter, as the UK is on a different plug from both Italy and the US. Without it, I wouldn’t have been able to charge my devices. And even though I got basic toiletries and a t-shirt from the airline, I was far more relaxed and comfortable having my own clothes and basics to get me through my unexpected layover in London.
London DSC_0003
Plus, since I didn’t have to spend any time scrambling to buy clothing or toiletries or electronics, I was able to focus my time on meeting up last-minute with friends (I saw 2 different friends during my surprise layover!) and soaking up the holiday atmosphere of London, just a few days before Christmas.

Have you ever missed your connecting flight? What do you wish you had known beforehand? Share any tips I missed for how to survive a surprise overnight layover!

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