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Foodie Bucket List: The 16 Best Local Foods (and Drinks) in Israel

February 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Leading up to my most recent trip to Israel, I was a bit stymied by the ‘travel planning’ phase I engage in for most of my trips. I lived in Israel for a year, which was the start of my extensive traveling. I’ve been back to visit many times since, and not so much changes from year to year. Besides catching up with friends and family, how would I spend my time there?

Then, the night before my trip, I couldn’t stop thinking about all of the foods I knew I wanted to be sure to eat at some point during the ten days. I obviously had to have falafel. And hummus. And shakshuka. The more I thought about it, the longer my list became, until I had a pretty decent list stored on my phone of what foods I would seek out on my travels.

So I arrived with a “To Eat” list instead of a “To Do” list.

Even if you’ve never been to Israel, if you’re familiar with the cuisines of other countries on the Mediterranean Sea, you may recognize some of the foods below – or their variations. In any case, the Israeli versions of these specialties are worth seeking out on your visit. Ask any local, and they’ll point you to the best nearby spot for:

Savory Bites

Shakshuka

The ultimate in savory breakfast, shakshuka consists of a spiced tomato, pepper and onion mixture that is heated and then used as a liquid to poach eggs. A beautiful and incredibly hearty way to start the day. Or do as many Israelis do, and have breakfast for dinner. Find out more about a top spot to sample this typical dish in my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel.

Bourekas

Known as a burek in other countries along the Mediterranean and in Eastern Europe, the Israeli version of bourekas also involves phyllo dough that has been stuffed typically with some sort of savory filling and topped with sesame and/or poppy seeds. The salty cheese and potato ones are most common, although there are plenty of variations on fillings. A lot of markets have stands selling bourekas, or it is a good savory bite to pick up from the bakery section of a supermarket for a snack on the go.

Falafel

A falafel is one of several common Israeli foods served in a puffy pita. The falafel balls themselves consist of ground chickpeas and other spices that are then deep fried. In any reputable falafel stand, you’ll have a variety of toppings to choose from, including spreads like hummus and tahini. Some of my favorite add-ons are marinated cubes of eggplant, pickles, and french fries.

Schwarma

Another typical pita dish found all over Israel, schwarma is filled with meat shaved off of a spit. In Israel it is usually lamb, although you’ll sometimes find chicken versions. Condiments mirror those available for falafel, and make for some tasty bites.

Sabich

The third and final pita dish on this list, sabich has recently become trendy and widely available in Israel, and was my favorite new bite of my last visit. Condiments are also similar to falafel and shwarma, except that the main filling is fried eggplant and chunks of hard-boiled egg. There is just some unctuous savoriness that comes with a well-made sabich that made this the meal I chose for my final dinner before flying home to Milan. Head to my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my favorite spot to eat this local specialty.

Hummus

As you’ve seen above, hummus is a typical condiment for pita-based dishes, however it can also be a stand-alone meal. When hummus made its way onto my “to eat” list, it was not as a dip but the warm hummus that is served with chickpeas and spices or sauteed lamb on top, and then pita bread becomes merely the vehicle for the food, with the hummus and its toppings as the main event.

Jachnun & Malawach

These two types of Middle Eastern concoctions are often made from the same dough and served with the same condiments, so I’ve included them together here. The format differs – for jachnun the dough is rolled into almost a narrow cylinder and malawach is in the form of thick, circular pancakes – but both are brushed with some type of fat or oil. Jachnun tends to be cooked slowly in an oven while malawach is fried, but then both are served with a crushed tomato dip, hard boiled egg, and hot sauce.

Sweet Bites

Baklava

The exact history of baklava’s origins is murky, but the important thing to know is that it is part of local tradition and you’ll eat excellent versions everywhere you go. There are also many varieties beyond the typical bites with flat sections of phyllo dough, some having a more shredded exterior. You can usually find pretty small bites of the different varieties, so go crazy and sample them all!

Halva

There are tons of variations of halva around the world – and I’ve sampled versions from Greece to Oman – but the Israeli version is the one I find most addictive. Locally it’s made from a sesame paste and starts off in a large block that is cut into slices for sale. Varieties abound, and beyond the plain version, you’ll most typically see chocolate or various nuts mixed in. Any market is a great place to sample many different types and then buy a slice or two for later.

‘Exploding’ Chocolate

At any supermarket, head to the row of red Elite chocolate bars and you’ll find this delightful bar of chocolate with pop rocks inside, with little yellow explosions shown on the label. A great snack to have after a picnic meal or while out hiking. It’s also a great souvenir or gift to bring back home, especially if you don’t tell the recipient what to expect when they take a bite.

Krem Bo

I’ve sampled this treat at food markets in Europe also, but my favorite version is still the Israeli Krem Bo. It is a circle of graham cracker covered by a near-cylinder of marshmallow goo and encased in a thin chocolate shell. Due to the summer heat that would melt these pretty quickly, you’ll typically only find Krem Bo for sale in the winter. The good news is that during Israel’s cooler months you can find them almost everywhere, from large supermarkets to the convenience store on the corner. If you’re having trouble finding them (which even I do sometimes despite knowing what they look like), just ask.

Doughnuts

Although doughnuts themselves are not a local food per se, sufganiyot – the doughnuts available around Chanukah time – are taken to a whole new level in Israel. The toppings and fillings available boggle the mind, and really it just becomes a vessel for a baker’s creativity.

TIP! Chanukah is usually in December, depending on the lunar, Jewish calendar for any given year, so check the timing before you go if you’d like to be around for the right 8 days.

Beverages

Nana Tea

Any time of year, hot tea is good way to stay hydrated in the desert. So whether you’re actually in the desert, or at one of the developed cities surrounded by desert, nana tea is the local pick. Nana is a type of spearmint from the Mediterranean whose mint leaves will be placed directly into boiling water, often with a regular tea bag, too. A refreshing cuppa anytime.

Sachlav

You’ll see this milky, comfort beverage more often in winter as many people prefer to consume it hot (although it is served cold as well). In addition to milk, aromatics are added, with the exact mix depending on the recipe. Known by some as ‘the hot chocolate of the Middle East,’ it basically serves the same comfort function of a hot chocolate, mulled wine, or hot cider. Keep an eye out for it at market vendors and even coffee shops in bus and train stations during winter.

Wine

Israeli wine is excellent. A lot of wineries produce kosher wine, but make no mistake – we’re not talking syrupy-sweet Manishewitz here. Some of the best wines I’ve ever had have been from Israel, which produces many varietals of both white and red grapes you’re probably familiar with. Israeli ingenuity has led to exacting production standards that produce a delicious final product year after year. There is also a ton of value with Israeli wine right now, due to all of the competition. Take advantage and sample your way through Israeli wines whenever you have the opportunity. And check out this thorough post on which Israeli wineries are best to visit. If you won’t get a chance to visit wineries in person, but still want to taste the range of Israeli wines, there are dozens of wines that can be sampled at Tel Aviv’s Tasting Room Wine Bar.

Beer

Israel is known for its entrepreneurial spirit, and this is evident in the emerging craft beer scene as well. The craft beer expansion began in earnest around a decade ago, similar to the timing of Israel’s boutique winery boom. You’ll find it on menus all over and there are quite a few breweries or brewery pubs for specific brands in Israel’s major cities. There is a great round-up of craft breweries to visit from Afar Magazine here. Another great place to sample a variety of craft brews from different breweries is BeerBazaar, with locations in the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv & Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem (I’ve been to and enjoyed the Jerusalem branch). Or you can always opt for the old standby Israeli-produced beers that have been quenching thirst for decades: Carlsberg, Goldstar, Maccabee, & Tuborg.

What’s your favorite Israeli dish? Any typical food I’ve omitted? Have you ever traveled with a “to eat” list? Let me know in the Comments!

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Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

March 1, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Jerusalem is built on a series of hills, and as you approach the city in a vehicle for the first time, you feel the anticipation build more and more as you loop around the winding roads. At some point it occurs to you to turn your head, and you find yourself looking down into the dramatic valleys and into the distance at this sacred biblical land. Just when you think you might have arrived, there is one more turn, one more bend, one more cutback, before finally the city of Jerusalem comes into full view.

This build-up, this anticipation, is part of the mystique of the city of Jerusalem. There are surprises and secrets to uncover everywhere you turn, whether it’s an ancient Roman road getting unearthed during an excavation or a previously unknown tunnel accidentally discovered. It is ancient white stone structures and modern amenities. A lengthy history that is tangible as you walk it’s streets, with ancient whispers beckoning at every turn.

Jerusalem is a holy city, central to the Jewish, Christian, and Muslim faiths. The Old City has Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim quarters. Israel itself has become a melting pot even for Jews of many nationalities, including recent waves of Ethiopian and Russian immigrants. Jerusalem has a bustle about it of people always moving with purpose, whether on a religious pilgrimage or simply running errands about town. It is a city that moves.

And then suddenly, the activity comes to a screeching halt as the sun sets on Friday evening. There is the quiet of Shabbat (the Sabbath), a deep calm that sets into the city until Saturday’s sundown, observed more widely in Jerusalem than in Israel’s more secular cities. Sometimes on Shabbat as you stroll deserted streets, taking in the meditative silence of the Jewish day of rest, you feel as if you could be walking those streets 2,000 years ago and not much would differ. There would be the same peaceful quiet, the same contemplation and introspection, the same Jerusalem stone guiding your steps.

Israel, and the city of Jerusalem specifically, was the first place that I lived abroad. Despite my teenage inexperience with travel, I took it all in with a sense of wonder, marveling at the rich history and how connected it was still to the modern city. I loved exploring the back alleys and narrow passageways of Jerusalem’s pedestrian areas and wandering inside the walls of the Old City. I also loved using the city as a jumping off point for other weekend explorations – which I did often – and always savored the return bus trip, looping my way slowly up Jerusalem’s hills until I could see the city peek through again on the turns and finally feeling my heart jump as I could see the full view of Jerusalem again.

Despite the countless times I’ve entered the city of Jerusalem by bus or car, my experience en route is always the same. While I know the city well, it is constantly evolving, and with every visit I see the latest archaeological discovery or a new section of the Western Wall Tunnels unearthed. There is so much to take in, so much to savor, and so much to discover for the first time. On each visit.

Things to Do

Old City and Nearby

Old City

The Old City is divided into four quarters – Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim – and is accessible through nine active gates. It is a bit of living history, with shopkeepers and many holy sites for several religions contained within a small geographic area. Even without a particular destination in mind, it’s a great spot to wander, and be sure to spend at least some time in each of the quarters. Use caution at the entrance gates, and rest assured that there is security posted frequently throughout.

TIP! Many of the religious sites for Christianity, Islam, and Judaism in the Old City require modest dress to enter, so it’s a good idea to dress modestly on any day you’ll be visiting.

The Shuk

Shuk simply means market, and is similar to other traditional markets you may have visited throughout the Middle East. Anything from spices to hand-carved chess and backgammon sets to kitchy tourist t-shirts will be on sale, and this is the time to put your haggling skills to the test. Don’t be afraid to walk away – it will improve your bargaining position and there is also likely to be another vendor selling similar (or identical) wares.

Western Wall

The one remaining wall of the first-century Second Temple built by Herod, this spot is the holiest area where Jews can pray. People flock from all over the world, and like the most religious Jews, prayer space is divided into men’s and women’s sections. Modest dress is required. You’ll notice lots of people placing tiny scraps of paper into the cracks in the wall – these notes have people’s personal prayers written on them, believed to have special powers to reach God. If you’re feeling inclined, leave a note with your own prayer on it.

Western Wall Tunnels

The Western Wall is the section visible at ground level, however there are more extensive remnants of the Second Temple underground. I’ve probably toured the Western Wall tunnels three or four times, but it is always worth arranging a visit as excavation are ongoing and new areas are constantly unearthed and added to the tour. It’s best to reserve a spot in advance, using the link above.

Via Dolorosa

Literally “the way of suffering,” this path traces Jesus’s steps on the way to crucifixion. There are 14 stations of the cross, beginning at Lions’ Gate and ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the last five stations are located.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Considered to be the location of Jesus’s tomb, Christians from all over the world make a pilgrimage to this Church inside Jerusalem’s Old City. While open daily, lines can get quite lengthy, so it’s best to visit earlier in the day.

Al Aqsa Mosque & Temple Mount

The Temple Mount is the third holiest site in Islam after Mecca and Medina, and the holiest site for Jews. For non-Muslims there are very limited visiting hours only from Sunday to Thursday, and entrance to the mosques is no longer permitted. Also, the site can be closed without warning at any time for security reasons. Check in at the link above for the latest information, and arrive early (with your passport) and dress modestly if you’d like the possibility of a visit.

Tower of David & Museum of the History of Jerusalem

Also known as the Citadel, the Tower of David, it’s a former Ottoman fortification located just outside the Old City’s Jaffa Gate. You can tour the archaeological excavation and visit a museum showcasing Jerusalem’s lengthy history. There is also an evening light and sound show, with advance tickets recommended.

Hezekiah’s Tunnel & the City of David

This water tunnel is part of the City of David, and was an engineering marvel when first constructed nearly 3,000 years ago. Its purpose was to provide water access to the city in the case of a siege. The tunnel is accessible up until 1 hour before closing time, although you’ll need to buy tickets at least 2 hours before close. Come prepared with water shoes and light, water-resistant clothing as water may be as high as your knees as you walk through the tunnel. Likely to be one of the more memorable sights of your time in Jerusalem.

Around Town

Ben Yehuda Street & Surrounding Pedestrian Areas

A bustling part of town, especially in the evenings, the modern ‘center’ of Jerusalem can be found here. There are a lot of shopping opportunities from brick-and-mortar stores to outdoor markets, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to pop into as you stroll.

Machane Yehuda Market

By day, this is a bustling Middle Eastern market (or shuk) with fresh produce, endless prepared food for sale, and any knick-knack you might need. By night, the market is now a trendy destination for dinner or a night out with friends, especially for the younger Jerusalem crowd. It’s closed on Shabbat, from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday, but otherwise is a must-visit spot at several times of day to taste your way through.

Museums

Israel Museum

The top draw here is probably the Dead Sea Scrolls, ancient biblical manuscripts on display in the iconic white building pictured above. This world-class museum also houses notable art and archaeological artifacts, and its gardens are extensive and worth a stroll.

Yad Vashem

The State of Israel was founded in the wake of the Holocaust and its Holocaust Remembrance Center is a sobering reminder of the atrocities committed against Jews and others during World War II. Take a slow day and take your time to weave through the thoughtful exhibitions.

Off the Beaten Path

Mount of Olives

This biblical site has been used as a Jewish cemetery for several thousand years and has been a pilgrimage sight for Jews as well. While you may visit for religious significance, it is also a great spot to overlook the city of Jerusalem. Part of the City of David, although a bit further from the Old City than Hezekiah’s Tunnel (see above).

Chagall Windows at Hadassah Medical Center, Ein Kerem

It’s not really close to anywhere you’re likely to be, but if you want to glimpse 12 stunning Marc Chagall windows depicting biblical scenes, head to the synagogue inside the Hadassah Medical Center at Ein Kerem. These were the first Chagall windows I trekked to see, although I more recently enjoyed the Chagall Windows at a church in Mainz. Perhaps I should adopt a new motto: Will travel for beautiful stained glass windows.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Jerusalem is a relatively easy city to navigate. A lot of the sights you’ll want to see are clustered in a few walkable areas, like the Old City and the pedestrian area around Ben Yehuda Street. The other main modes of transportation are:

Light Rail

Opened in 2011, the light rail is a pleasant way to traverse Jerusalem. Only one line is currently open, but it will take you to many of the sights of interest like the Old City, the pedestrian Center, and Mahane Yehuda Market. The light rail also stops at the Central Bus Station, for when you arrive and leave the city, and connects at several points to bus lines.

Buses

The bus system in Israel as a whole, and Jerusalem as well, is exceptionally thorough. Even for the places you’ll want to go outside the central areas, there will definitely be a bus to get you there. Check the Egged site linked above (in English) for schedules and routes.

Taxis

Taxis are widely available, and most drivers speak English. Be sure to negotiate a fare before agreeing to a ride. You can always ask at your accommodations what you should expect a certain ride to cost so you have a baseline in mind.

TIP! Bargaining is a way of life in Israel, and most things are expected to be negotiated. And like all haggling, you’re best served not accepting the first offer.

TIP! A lot of modes of transportation do not operate in Jerusalem on Shabbat, so if you do travel other than on foot, expect to pay more than usual for your taxi.

Jerusalem really is a city that has my heart, and there is so much to discover across its hills. Even among Israeli cities it’s unique, both for how much history has been preserved across millenia and how much that history is felt on a daily basis. It’s a magical place to spend Shabbat and really appreciate the “day of rest.” And a cultural experience like no other to fully take in the other days of the week.

Interested in where to eat while you’re in Jerusalem? Head to this post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my top Jerusalem picks.

Have you been to Jerusalem? Any spots you love that I should add to my list? Other questions about visiting? Let me know in the Comments.

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8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

February 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“If the Romans made wine here 2,000 years ago, why can’t we today?”

These wise words from one of the more recent Israeli winemakers of the Judean Desert south of Jerusalem embody the explosion of new wineries in Israel over the last decade or so, with the most up-and-coming regions being located in Israel’s desert areas in the south of the country.

Wine has been produced in Israel for millenia – dating from biblical times and later during the Roman Empire – but modern Israeli wine-making has happened on a much shorter timescale, from the 1880s on. And it is the last decade or two in particular that has seen an explosion of new boutique wineries across Israel producing excellent bottles of wine. The recent expansion of wineries is not limited to just the number of wine producers, but also includes wineries popping up in new geographic areas of the country, bringing even more variety to what types of wines today constitute ‘Israeli wine.’ This also means that wherever you’re travelling in the country, there is likely a winery nearby that you can pop into for a visit and a tasting.

Traditionally the green, fertile areas of the Galilee and Golan Heights and the coastal areas in the north of the country have been the hub for wine production, and you’ll still find Israel’s oldest and largest wineries there. Some of the most interesting wines being produced however come from the newer wine-producing regions in the more arid regions to the south, whose varied terroir (soil) and climate lead to very different flavors and notes in the final product. Of course grapes can always taste quite different depending on where they’re grown, but Israel’s varied terrain over relatively small country makes it an especially interesting contrast as you taste your way through its wineries as you travel across the country.

In general, the red grapes grown throughout Israel today tend to be similar to those found in France, from the most common Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah and even some of the lesser-known red grape varietals like Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In terms of whites, you’ll see a lot of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, along with some German white wines like Gewurztraminer and Riesling.

I’ve personally visited most of the wineries on this list, however there are a few additional wineries producing excellent bottles right now that I’ve also included as options for a winery visit in the relevant regions below:

Wineries of Note

Coastal Areas

Carmel Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

Famous French winemaker Baron de Rothschild (of Chateau Lafitte renown) founded this winery in the late 1800s, kicking off the modern era of Israeli winemaking. Carmel is actually the largest winery in Israel, and has such interesting history it is also well worth it to come for the tour. If you get a chance, check out the original log books of expenses, and you’ll notice several incidences of the word bakshish (the Arabic word for bribe) listed in several different spellings – a recurring expense when the winery was first founded 😉 It is quite inexpensive for the basic tour, so you’ll definitely get your money’s worth here and also enjoy the several wines available for tasting whichever tour you choose.

Tulip Winery

Reservations: Not needed (except for groups)

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewurtztraminer, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Although I haven’t been personally, the wines from Tulip are so acclaimed I am compelled to include it on this list. Their wines are routinely on lists of top wines from Israel, and their visitor’s center garners high praise. Also, this family winery has a social conscience, employing many people with special needs from the surrounding community.

Golan Heights

Golan Heights Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

The Golan Heights Winery offers what I would characterize as the most touristy experience of the wineries on this list, with tour groups criss-crossing each other throughout the estate. Due to the several acclaimed labels produced by this winery, and their extensive operations, it’s definitely one of the wineries where it is worth the advance planning necessary for a visit. There are several levels of tours available in multiple languages beyond Hebrew and English. The different levels of tours vary in length, price, food offered, and which wines are available for tasting.

Pelter Winery

Reservations: Not needed except for groups

Tasting: Free, there is a per person fee for groups, which includes tour and wine tasting

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Have a phone or GPS handy, as this winery was a bit hard to find. Once you arrive, you’ll be rewarded by a tasting of excellent whites and interesting reds. While Pelter is a known brand you’ll find in many wine shops and on restaurant menus, you’ll be able to buy bottles for a much more reasonable price in person and have a great tasting experience. And while it may be pricier wine than the bottles you’ll find at other wineries, the quality makes it all worth it.

Judean Desert/Center

Domaine du Castel

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot

This winery involves a bit more effort to visit on your own, although it is a stop on a lot of organized wine tours. The wines include a chardonnay, rosé, and some red blends, many of which have received international recognition for their quality. Like several other wineries on this list, it is a family-managed winery, which you’ll feel on your visit. Do note that this is the priciest of the wine tastings, which includes a winery tour and cheese plate.

Flam Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting (with add-on option of cheese & bread), for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

While I’ve enjoyed a bottle of wine from Flam at a restaurant in Tel Aviv, I have not visited the winery personally. It is the second priciest winery tasting option on this list (with some of the priciest bottles of wine), however the winery has received so much attention lately I would be remiss to not include it. Definitely a stop for the serious oenophile.

Tzora Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

Tzora is unique to this list for being a boutique winery in a desert region that has actually been around for over two decades, producing wine since the early 1990s. One of the pioneering wineries of the Judean Hills, the team at Tzora has assembled a lot of expertise that shines through in the final product, always topping lists of the best Israeli wines.

Yatir Winery

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Viognier

Another one of my absolute favorite wineries, Yatir is one of Israel’s current outstanding producers. Like Pelter (see above), it is widely available in wine shops around Israel, although at a markup from what you can pay for the excellent quality in-person at the winery. A top winery for a visit, producing some truly excellent bottles worth taking home.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

There are a few additional things you may want to keep in mind when planning your wine tasting tour of Israel – or at least a tour of Israel with some wine tasting along the way =)

TIP! If you’ve rented a car, you’ll know you’re in the vicinity of a winery by the brown sign for sights of interest with grapes on it. The best part of taking a road trip is the spontaneity to go somewhere unexpected at a moment’s notice. If the mood strikes you, take advantage!

TIP! Most Israelis speak English well, and this is especially true at the wineries hosting visitors, so don’t worry about being able to understand your tour or tasting. Some of the larger wineries will also offer tours in additional languages.

TIP! A lot of wineries are closed on Saturday for the Jewish Sabbath, and many have limited hours on Friday as the Sabbath begins at sundown (so timing varies throughout the year). Plan your visits accordingly.

TIP! Wineries (and the country as a whole) will also close for other Jewish holidays that may not be on your radar, so definitely consult a Jewish calendar before planning your trip and your winery visits.

TIP! Even for the wineries that don’t require advance reservations, it is good to have a working phone handy to give them a heads up you’ll be coming or to get help with directions if you’re lost on the way.

TIP! Phone numbers in Israel begin with a zero followed by another number indicating the region, and cell phones all begin with 05. If you’re calling from an Israeli phone, include the zero. For calls from other places, when you add the +972 in front for the country code, leave off the zero from the number.

Israeli wine tasting for me ranks up there with some of the stellar tastings I’ve done in wine regions all over the world, from the US to Australia to France to Italy. And the environment is so different from wine regions you may be used to that even some of the grapes you think you know well are likely to surprise you.

If you’re not sure if you’ll have time to do a wine tasting at a winery, check out the ‘Wine’ section of my Foodie Bucket List for Israel for the best spot where you can do a number of tastings at wine bar in Tel Aviv.

Have you ever had Israeli wine? Any favorite Israeli wineries that didn’t make my list? Share any additional intel and comments below!

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Travel Inspiration: My First-Ever Cheese Pilgrimage

August 25, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

If I asked most people I know how they pick where they travel, I’d get replies about an image of a beautiful beach, a famous landmark, an activity on a bucket list, or maybe even a specific cuisine or wine varietal that comes from a particular region. But . . . a cheese?

I’ve always liked cheese, but I’ve never been obsessive about it. Sometimes I have 4 or 5 different types in the refrigerator, sometimes these days just one (parmesan, of course – I do live in Italy after all). So how did someone like me end up driving several hours out of the way to spend a night in a very particular cheese country in the western part of Switzerland, close to the French border??

I had never heard of, seen, or tasted Tête de Moine cheese until March of 2013. And this all began in the most unexpected of places – Melbourne, Australia. It was during the start of what I lovingly refer to as the “Farewell Australia tour,” which is the 3.5 week trip I took to see the main sights of Australia right before flying back to the US and moving to Milan.

Melbourne was the first stop, and fresh with my adventurous travel spirit, I found a fairly nice place for dinner. What sold me was not only the menu and wine list, but the fact that they had a cheese trolley, and I was dining with a friend who loves a good selection of cheeses to close a meal (the restaurant was Merricote, although I don’t know if they’ve carried Tête de Moine cheese since my one and only delicious visit).

At the end of a satisfying meal and excellent wine, we requested the cheese trolley and picked a selection of 3 cheeses. Since they were all displayed on the cart for us, we could pick on sight what looked the most tempting. As soon as the cart arrived, I saw a cylindrical cheese perched on a circular contraption with a blade on top, and thought the serving method looked so fun that I had to see it in action. Seems superficial perhaps, but I’m so glad I was drawn to trying the cheese. It was the Tête de Moine (literally “monk’s head” cheese, our waitress told us) and was shaved into beautiful sections by spinning the blade around.

Note: a picture of the cheese, but not from Merricote (don't think I took a single pic there unfortunately) — Note: a picture of Tête de Moine cheese and girolle, but not from Merricote (don’t think I took a single pic there unfortunately)

We may have picked solely on appearances, but the texture and flavor of the cheese was distinct, although tasting similar to other Swiss mountain cheeses I’ve had. You could taste the flavor of the cow’s milk coming through and the folded over shape of the cheese with the ruffled edges gave such a different textures from a soft, creamy cheese or a firmer one. Somewhere in between, hitting that perfect note.

That might have been the end of it. A one-time tasting of a very special Swiss cheese that is not widely available outside of Switzerland, making an already great meal particularly memorable. But of course, once I had seen and tasted the monk’s head cheese, it started appearing again and again.

My first step admittedly after that meal was to do an internet search on “monk’s head cheese,” where I learned that the cylindrical holder with blade is called a girolle and that the curled pieces of cheese that come off the top are called rosettes. The Tête de Moine has competing legends as to the origin of its name, but the reasoning behind the rosettes is to have the right ratio of cheese to air to maximize flavor (which of course appealed to the science geek in me). And the oh-so-clever girolle was only invented to achieve this in the 1980s! It’s pretty exciting when the tool for serving a cheese that has centuries of history was developed in my lifetime.

From there, I started noticing Tête de Moine cheese. At the annual artisanal food fair that takes place in Milan in early December. In the cheese case at one of Milan’s upscale markets. In the cheese aisle at a regular supermarket in France. It even made an appearance on my cheese plate flying Swiss Air back to the US, when I got upgraded to Business Class last-minute on my silver status with United (thanks, Star Alliance).

And then comes the cheese pilgrimage to Bellelay, Switzerland, the origin of Tête de Moine. A lot of times by the time I travel, I’ve done extensive research, made notes, and marked points of interest on a map. The nice thing about making a pilgrimage to a low-key location with a single purpose in mind, there really is not too much to plan.

Bellelay is a charming little town just over an hour’s drive from either Bern or Basel, and not far from Lake Bielersee and its many towns. There are many ways to combine a trip to Bellelay and the nearby dairies with a stay somewhere else, or you can embrace country living for a night. I had a great stay at the Hotel de l’Ours, which also serves a lovely dinner at their restaurant.

And just a short walk away is the Tête de Moine museum, which has a thorough exhibit tracing the geography and history of the cheese, and of course ends where you can enjoy a tasting of the different varieties of Tête de Moine and decide which one to purchase. And all of the cheese accessories you might need, like a proper girolle. Plus, if you’re lucky, they still have bottles of the delicious, local plum-flavored digestif liqueur for sale as well.

Outside the museum in Bellelay, Switzerland

There are also a lot of dairies nearby, although some have limited hours on the weekend so be sure to check their schedule, which also varies seasonally. And if you’re looking for other things to do in the region, there is a lot of practical information here about visiting that region of Switzerland.

After a few turns of the blade, beautiful rosettes of cheese emerge — Tasting plate at the museum: after a few turns of the blade, beautiful rosettes of cheese emerge

As I started writing this article, I thought – if I hadn’t moved to Milan after that first taste of Tête de Moine cheese, would I have still made the cheese pilgrimage to Bellelay? Probably not as a stand-alone trip like this one, but as a stopover during a trip to France or Switzerland? Absolutely.

And that is my challenge to you. Is there a specific food, cuisine, or beverage that you absolutely love? Why not travel to where that item originates to experience it in its purest form?

Have you made a similar pilgrimage? Tell me about it in the comments!

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Insider Bucket List – 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

March 3, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Many people travel to Israel as religious pilgrims, but this tiny country on the Mediterranean has so much to offer every type of traveler. From outdoor adventure to Roman ruins to burgeoning boutique wineries to relaxing beach days, there is a seemingly endless list of attractions and superlatives to seek out. You can treat this post as a bucket list, or merely as a starting point to get a sense of all of the ways to spend your visit to Israel, and then decide on which ones appeal to you most or work with your time limitations.

This list is compiled from the top experiences that stand out for me, after my time living in Israel and my recent return visits. I am a bit of an eclectic, so you’ll see different aspects of my foodie, nature-loving, history-enthralled self coming through. Enjoy!

#1 | Jersualem’s Old City.

There are millenia of history in the layers of Jerusalem stone, and there have been enough excavations over the years that you can literally walk in the footsteps of history. The Old City, despite its small size, contains some of the holiest sites of the world’s three main monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. And the historical remnants abound – yours to discover as you wander on foot or take part in an organized itinerary. Check out my top picks for what to do in Jerusalem here.

#2 | Eat your way around a market.

Produce in Israel tastes incredible because it is just so fresh. It was only when I lived here that I started eating tomatoes and many other fruits and vegetables because it just tastes so much better from the markets. Markets also have plenty of vendors selling prepared food products, including many of Israel’s local specialties. Even the smallest Israeli town will have a market at least a couple of days a week, so ask wherever you go. Top markets to visit include Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem or Carmel Market in Tel Aviv.

#3 | Cosmopolitan Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv feels much like any bustling European city, and it will probably remind you of some when you visit. Sheinkin Street is a great shopping destination with some funky stores and plenty of nearby restaurants and cafes to refuel. On Tuesdays and Fridays, my favorite craft market is held all day on block after block of the pedestrian street Nahalat Binyamin – it’s a great place to pick up souvenirs or treat yourself. I still wear a ring I purchased here in the 1990s daily. And of course, there is the cafe culture of Tel Aviv to soak up. Linger as the Israelis do, drinking coffee, grabbing a light bite to eat, and catching up with friends or work leisurely on your laptop. Rothschild Boulevard is a popular spot for outdoor cafes and people watching, including the beloved cafe at Rothschild 12 and you can check out some other top recommendations from Israeli newspaper Ha’aretz here.

#4 | Old Port City of Jaffa.

On the southern side of Tel Aviv lies this ancient port city, which for me is all about wandering and exploring. Take in the views overlooking the sea and Tel Aviv’s beach, stroll through the HaPisga Gardens, wander the narrow passageways and pop into artist’s studios along the way, and explore the antique offerings at the local flea market. There are also some great restaurants overlooking the water and some trendy bars that have opened recently.

#5 | Baha’i Gardens in Haifa.

One of the two holiest sites for the Baha’i religion is in Haifa, a dramatic series of terraced gardens leading up to a Temple. Entrance is free and the gardens are open 7 days a week except holy days, although some of the interior gardens close at noon. The city of Haifa hasn’t always wowed me, but this is is one thing worth traveling to Haifa to seek out.

#6 | Beaches.

Israel has a whole coast of beach possibilities, from the one essentially in downtown Tel Aviv to some of the more secluded options further from the cities. Definitely build some down time into your trip to go and enjoy the warm Mediterranean waters and the beach scene. And if you make it to Herzliya, definitely check out their beach’s main attraction – a hermit house built from discarded materials that has been around since the 1970s.

#7 | Play sheshbesh at a bar or cafe.

In the US, people gather at parks to play a game of chess – in Israel, they gather at bars and cafes to play sheshbesh, which you may know better as backgammon. If you’re not from the Middle East, you may not have grown up playing backgammon, but in Israel it is all the rage. Many bars and cafes will have playing sets available, and it is definitely the local pastime. Often enjoyed in conjunction with some flavored tobacco smoked from a water pipe, known locally as hoookah or nargila or shisha, it’s a way to experience life like a local for an afternoon or evening.

#8 | Enjoy a Traditional Shabbat.

For religious Jews, Shabbat (the Sabbath) is a day when time stands still, lasting from sundown Friday until sundown Saturday. You don’t use electricity or cell phones, but take the time to pray and enjoy time with friends and family. It’s a great escape or digital detox for a day, and is worth seeking out a way to enjoy a Shabbat in Israel, whether it means attending a synagogue service or sharing a traditional meal with locals.

#9 | Bargain at the shuk.

The shuk, or market, is a central part of shopping and eating for many Israelis. In addition to food, there are plenty of household items for sale plus souvenirs for any type of tourist, from t-shirts to jewelry to spices to hand-carved chess or backgammon (sheshbesh) sets. Of course, this being the Middle East, you don’t want to simply accept the first price that is offered. Haggling is expected, and it is at its most dramatic in this country of bargaining experts.

#10 | Check out the Natural Grottoes at Rosh Hanikra.

Rosh_Hanikra_(12276775196) Israel — Image: sunshinecity via Wikimedia Commons

Located atop steep cliffs at the Israel-Lebanon border on the Mediterranean coast, Rosh Hanikra is also the site of a series of natural sea grottoes. From the visitor’s center you can descend in a cable car and explore the area of the grottoes on foot, taking in the natural landscape.

#11 | Stunning Archaeological Ruins.

Many empires have ruled the land that is now Israel, so there are ruins all over, many dating from Roman times thousands of years ago – and others from long before. Some of the my favorite ruins to visit (I’ve been to all of them multiple times over the years):

Akko/Acre – One of the few natural ports along Israel’s coast, Akko has been used by many civilizations who have left their mark. Walk Old Akko’s walls and explore the underground crusader city. Another reason to go? Enjoying the epic tasting menu at one of my all-time favorite restaurants in the entire country, Uri Buri.
Caesarea – Named for Julius Caesar, the ruins here are massive and rival any that I’ve seen in Italy or Greece. Set aside plenty of time to explore all of the areas, including an Amphitheater and Hippodrome, dramatically located right on the Mediterranean coast.
Megiddo – The biblical site of Armageddon, this is one of the more ancient settlements whose mark is still visible today. James Michener’s masterpiece novel The Source is generally based on the archaeological excavations here, especially around the impressive underground water tunnel that you can explore on your visit.

#12 | Visit Wineries.

Modern wine-making has been taking place in Israel for over a century, but it is more recently that boutique and family-run wineries of quality have emerged onto the scene. There are many winery tours and tastings you can experience, both in the more traditional wine-growing regions and at some excellent producers cropping up in the desert areas south of Jerusalem. Click here for my rundown of all of the best wineries for a visit when you go.

#13 | Mystical City of Tsfat/Safed.

Tsfat has been the seat of Jewish study and Kabbala (Jewish mysticism) for quite some time, and many people travel here to learn. Overall, it’s a quiet place with stunning views, although the synagogue scene gets quite lively over Shabbat. Like Jaffa near Tel Aviv, there are also a lot of artists who make their home here and have galleries that are open to the public during the week. There are also many local dairies producing some excellent cheese.

#14 | Outdoor Adventure.

Israelis like to seek out their fair share of adventure, and with the varied terrain and coast, there are many great options. Some top possibilities for outdoor adventure include hiking, rock climbing, rappelling (known in Hebrew as snapling), skydiving, scuba diving, and canoeing or kayaking. Take your pick!

#15 | Hike Masada for Sunrise.

Masada is well-known for being the site of a famous siege and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Jews were isolated on the plateau and after a long standoff with the Romans, committed mass suicide before they could be captured. The archaeological excavations of the settlement at the top are extensive, and it’s a beautiful (if hot) early morning hike to the top to watch sunrise over the mountains and the Dead Sea, and then visit the complex.

#16 | Float in the Dead Sea.

The lowest point on Earth, the Dead Sea also has an incredibly high salt concentration. Which means that you will be incredibly buoyant when you enter and can’t help but float – a disorienting and incredibly fun experience. You can see from me reading a book in the quintessential photo above that even if you normally have trouble floating, you can’t help but float here. The one think to be careful about is any cuts, no matter how microscopic. So maybe forgo shaving the morning before you go, as you will acutely feel any open wounds with the salinity.

#17 | Ein Gedi Oasis.

Israel’s largest oasis, this is a great spot for hiking and exploring for a day. Amidst the desert, there are springs, streams, and even waterfalls. Especially incredible given its proximity to the Dead Sea, it’s incredible to see all of the greenery and wildlife interspersed in an otherwise arid area. There are several trail options and lookout points to get a view of the surrounding area.

#18 | Trek the Desert.

I once volunteered at a camel riding outpost for three weeks, which involved living on a sand dune in the middle of nowhere with very few people around. In the middle of the desert, you can’t help but be in touch with the rising and setting sun and the expanse around you, I had no trouble seeing how many of the world’s religions were born in desert surroundings. It’s worth exploring Israel’s many desert landscapes during your visit, which you can do on foot hiking, biking, or riding a camel. And outside of the city lights the night sky is spectacular, so spend an overnight under the stars if you can.

#19 | Visit a Kibbutz.

A kibbutz is an Israeli collective – a community working together and jointly benefiting from individual efforts. Initially most kibbutzim were socialist farming communities and many even raised their children collectively, although in recent years many have shifted to a less socialist model. The fact that several of these uniquely Israeli communities are thriving today is a sight to see – many offer tours or meals, or even the possibility of staying overnight.

#20 | Check out a Machtesh.

Machtesh Ramon Israel — Image: Orhat via Wikimedia Commons

I would have written this article about how a machtesh in Israel is a must-see sight – if the Globe and Mail hadn’t already beaten me to it. A machtesh is an erosion crater unique to southern Israel and Egypt’s Sinai peninsula, and the largest of the five is Machtesh Ramon, which is over 40 kilometers (25 miles) long! Machtesh Ramon is the most humbling and also best equipped to direct tourists to its many hiking trails and lookout points

Are there any top experiences in Israel I missed? What stands out most in your mind? And any other questions about visiting Israel or any of the activities I listed? Share and ask away in the Comments!

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Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

February 23, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Impressions

Naples is considered the birthplace of pizza, however the Neapolitan pizza tradition is just scratching the surface of what the city has to offer. Many people pass by Naples on their Italy travels, or stay for just a few hours when transiting, but there is such a special personality of the city that warrants a longer stay. You can read more about my impressions of Naples and all of the crazy experiences I’ve had that represent some of the spirit there in a previous post here.

Sights in Naples range from the subterranean tunnel system to opulent churches with incredible art collections and castles with incredible vistas of the harbor. The intensity and bustle of the city is matched by the variety and flavor of the many local culinary specialties, and a few days or a weekend is needed even just to eat your way through Naples, let alone appreciate all its beauty. Keep scrolling for all of the things you’ll want to spend your time doing, and where to eat some incredible food along the way.

Things to Do

Amazing art

Archaelogical Museum

Pompeii is of course worth a visit all on its own, however the Archaeological museum in Naples itself is where a lot of the art from Pompeii is displayed. It’s an incredible collection well worth the time to explore (I spent several hours).

Pio Monte della Misericordia

I went inside on a whim one of the many times I was walking along Via dei Tribunali, one of the central streets close to many churches and restaurants. Although it is a church, there is a fairly large collection of impressive artwork and objects, including Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy.

Sansevero Chapel Museum

The highlight of this museum-chapel is the tomb monument known as ‘the veiled Christ.’ Like all transcendent art, you see it once, and then anywhere else you are in the room, your eyes keep getting drawn back to appreciate its beauty.

Other churches of note

Duomo

The word Duomo means cathedral in Italian, making it a top sight in most Italian cities. The Duomo in Naples is no exception, and it especially notable for the Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro, a museum of well-adorned art treasures connected to the cathedral.

Church of Gesù Nuovo

This is a very different looking church from the others you’ll see in Naples, especially from the outside with its dark stone facade, starkly contrasting with the golden colors of its interior. It’s a popular place for locals to attend service on Sundays, so plan your visit accordingly.

Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore

Pretty much in the exact historic center, the inside is not as opulent as some of the other churches, but this Basilica boasts extensive history, including the remnants of an ancient Roman market underneath.

Around town

Napoli Sottoranea (Naples Underground)

This is a tunnel tour well worth your time, exploring the tunnel system under the city. History in the tunnels ranges from use as a water source in ancient times to being used as a shelter during World War II, and even includes the remains of a Roman theater that is concealed by the many homes and apartments it borders.

Spaccanapoli

This street is easily spotted from any vantage point in Naples as the pedestrian walkway that cuts a straight line through the historical center. Mentioned often in Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it is still a bustling street where locals spend their leisure time.

Porta Nolana market

Visiting a market is a must to get a feel for the true chaos of Naples. The Porta Nolana market is mostly known for its fish and seafood, although you can find typical market fare as well.

Lungomare Caracciolo

Lungomare literally means the length of the sea, and is the pedestrian promenade along the Gulf of Naples. You’ll find many locals taking a stroll here in the late afternoon, watching breathtaking sunset views.

Amazing views/Off the beaten path

Capodimonte Museum

There are some famous works of art housed here and I enjoyed my visit, but I appreciated the location even more for its expansive views and the popular park surrounding the museum building.

Castel Nuovo

Close to the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito, this literal “new castle” is quite distinctive-looking and considered a city landmark, and dates from medieval times.

Castle of St. Elmo & Certosa e Museo di San Martino

The castle and nearby former monastery/museum are both accessible on the same hilltop by either metro or funicular from the center (followed by a bit of walking). The views from both are breathtaking, and they are not very crowded – I had some great opportunities to sit and appreciate the view in solitude. Also check out the nearby Friggitoria Vomero (see below) for a quick bite.

Ovo Castle

While the castle itself has irregular hours and I did not get a chance to visit, it is located on a small peninsula jutting out from the mainland not far from the Piazza del Plebiscito. Worth a visit for its lovely views of coastal Naples, especially at sunset.

Piazza del Plebiscito

This piazza, or square, has a very different look and feel from other parts of the city. It is an austere semi-circular open expanse lined by traditional columns and the domed Basilica Reale, or royal basilica.

Best Bites (& Sips)

Coffee

Caffè Mexico

On Piazza Dante, Caffe’ Mexico is considered by many to be the best coffee in Naples. The interior is traditional as is the espresso: deep brown and intense. Local coffee in Naples packs a particularly strong punch, even by Italian standards, and the version at Caffe’ Mexico exemplifies why coffee was its own entry on my list of Top 10 Things to Eat and Drink in Naples.

Il Vero Bar del Professore

Beware imposters, there are a ton of similarly named places in the immediate vicinity of the real (vero) bar where caffè alla nocciola was created, but it is worth seeking out the original spot where espresso was mixed with whipped hazelnut (nocciola) cream. Mmmmm . . .

Pastries

Sfogliatelle Attanasio

Open daily except Monday, take a number to join the queue for the piping hot sfogliatella, a seashell-looking pastry which is served here with the perfect balance of ricotta, citrus, and crispy outside. It is quite close to the central train station, making it an easy stop for visitors (and loads of locals).

Pastisseria Capriccio di Salvatore Capparelli

This spot is my go-to spot for babà on Via dei Tribunali, serving up a light-as-air version of the local rum cake that somehow has still soaked up all the syrupy goodness without being too sweet.

Restaurants

50 Kalò

Neapolitans could probably argue for days over which pizzeria serves the best pizza in Naples. I had a particularly delicious one here, on a recommendation from a friend-of-a-friend who is from Naples. It’s not such a well-kept secret though, learn more about what makes their dough so special here.

Friggitoria Vomero

This friggitoria (a vendor of fried goodies), was a small, authentic spot close to the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. The smell draws you in and then you are presented with many fried options to choose from, although I think the fried polenta and fried zucchini blossoms, fiori di zucca, were my best bites.

La Masardona

Also close to the central train station, this is another popular place that keeps the order of people waiting by taking a number. There are several varieties of fried pizza available, although my favorite bite might have been what was essentially fried macaroni and cheese (technically with bechamel, but same thing really). And best of all, you get to watch them assemble and fry your choices.

Osteria Da Antonio

A charming spot with local specialties done well and friendly service. It’s small, but cozy, and filled with lots of Italians. I dined on my own and it felt like I was being welcomed into someone’s home.

Limoncello

Limonè

Also along the Via dei Tribunali stretch and right by the Naples Underground, this factory makes several lemon-based products, including limoncello, the famous local lemon liqueur, usually imbibed at the end of a hearty meal to aid digestion (literally a digestivo). Unlike souvenir shops, at Limonè you can taste the different varieties of limoncello before you buy. I like both their traditional limoncello and their crema di limone, the cream version.

Have you visited Naples? What were your highlights? Anything I should add to the Cheat Sheet? Let me know in the Comments!

Wineries to Seek Out in Italy’s Piedmont Region

October 13, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

When most Italians talk about the best wine regions (of the 20 Italian regions), Piedmont is inevitably named along with Tuscany. The most esteemed Piemontese wine is the pricey Barolo, but there are many other well-known wines to sample throughout Piedmont: Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto d’Alba, and Moscato d’Asti. And if you’re a red wine connoisseur or aficionado, the lesser-known Grignolino may entice your palate like it did mine.

Whether you’re in the vicinity during fall’s truffle season, or exploring at another time of year, Piedmont is a great area to go for a day (or several) of wine tasting, because there are so many different types of grapes and wineries in fairly close proximity. And there are many excellent restaurants both at wineries and nearby.

Here are some wineries worth seeking out during your time in the Piedmont region, organized alphabetically by town:

Asti

Contratto

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Millesimato, Moscato, and other (mostly) sparkling wines

Even if you’ve toured many wineries before, this winery tour is different because of Contratto’s focus on sparkling wines and the different treatment they receive during the maturation process. While they sell many varieties of the typically sweet Moscato d’Asti, don’t be deterred. Many of the sparkling wines, including some Moscato, are quite fresh and well-balanced, and quite pleasurable to drink (even for those of us who usually shy away from sweet wines).

Barbaresco

Enoteca Regionale del Barbaresco

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: 3 selections available daily for a small fee

Varietals: Barbaresco!

Housed in a former church, this enoteca in the middle of town has a vast selection of local wines. You are only able to taste the ones selected by the Enoteca on a given day, but can get advice and purchase from many local wineries all in one spot.

Produttori di Barbaresco

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Barbaresco mainly, and excellent grappa

A short walk from the regional enoteca listed above, this winery has an inviting tasting room also central in the town of Barbaresco with no reservations needed. It’s a great spot to taste the differences in the flavor of this varietal from different years and treatments. And even if you don’t typically like digestifs or don’t think you like grappa, be sure to try the grappa here – after three years living in Italy, it’s the smoothest I’ve sampled.

Barolo

Da Milano

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Barbera, Barolo, Dolcetto, and also a nice Langhe white

This winery is the perfect combination of excellent production, and a conveniently located tasting room in the town of Barolo. As it was for me, it’s an easy stop if you have some extra time late in the afternoon or happening to be staying nearby and want to pop in for a tasting.

Dogliani

Poderi Luigi Einaudi

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Barbera, Barolo, Dogliani, Langhe Rosso, Moscato and Nebbiolo

There are quite a few very delicious single-grape wines from the various vineyards this winery has acquired throughout the Piedmont region, including Barbera, Barolo, Dogliani, and Nebbiolo. Poderi Luigi Einaudi also does an excellent red blend, their Langhe Rosso.

Langhe

Paitin

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically along with a tour, there is a dedicated tasting area

Varietals: Barbaresco, Barbera, Dolcetto, Langhe white and red, Nebbiolo

This is an incredibly scenic winery, with both vineyards and hazelnut trees on the property (the Piedmont region is know for its hazelnuts, and I was told that this winery grows hazelnuts that are used in Nutella on my visit!). Their wines are also excellent examples of the different Piemontese varietals, and I left with quite a few bottles in my trunk.

As you can tell, my wine preferences are quite eclectic, and there are a large number of wine varietals (white, red, and sparkling) represented by the wineries listed above. Certainly if there is one particular wine that you are seeking out on your trip, use this list as a starting point to explore more wineries growing a particular grape. Take the time to visit each winery’s website – many wineries are in one region but have vineyards in several places, so produce many different regional varietals.

Still have questions? Hit me up about the region and its wines in the Comments below.

How the US Election Result Helped Me to Connect My 2 Passions

February 14, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“Where are you from?” The typical first question of cab drivers transporting tourists, pretty much anywhere in the world.

“I’m American,” I reflexively replied.

While I know some Americans try to always disguise their nationality while they’re traveling, that’s never been me. I realize that sometimes there are bad stereotypes out there about American travelers, but I specifically mention that I’m American for that reason – to combat stereotypes. Nothing is a bigger compliment than being told by a foreigner that “you don’t seem like an American.” It basically means that they expected bad behavior, and instead you were gracious and unassuming.

The only place I had even considered temporarily adopting a non-American nationality was traveling in Vietnam in 2012. I had thought that locals might have prejudices or dislike Americans because of the Vietnam War, so started off telling people I was Australian (I figured they wouldn’t be able to distinguish between different accents speaking English, plus I *was* living in Perth at the time). In the end though, it turned out that none of the Vietnamese people I met harbored resentment against American tourists. So whenever I’m asked about my nationality, answering that I’m American doesn’t take any conscious thought.

Of course, on this particular cab ride, it was the next question that caught me completely off guard. “Donald Trump, new President?”

For Election Day this past November, I was in Bali, Indonesia. It was a week that I had set aside during my recent travels to fall off the grid. Not because of the US election, but simply as a week bridging the time between staying with friends in Singapore and Perth, Australia. I did not post on the travel blog or any of my social media accounts about where I was. I left my “nice” camera behind every time I went around exploring. And I was evasive when people asked which countries I’d be visiting on my 2-month trip, always excluding Indonesia.

Ubud is a pretty simple town in central Bali, where roosters crowing will wake you up at dawn no matter where or how fancy your accommodations. I had booked a car to take me to the airport at a nondescript, family-run stand around the corner from my impossibly cheap homestay. So when my taxi driver (the husband of the family) displayed a working knowledge of the American election result from three days prior, asking me about our new President-Elect by name, I was taken aback.

This was my first indication of the worldwide impact and awareness of the US election results – that everyone from wealthy intellectuals to the proverbial (and literal) man on the street in remote areas would know about the election, and be eager to ask any American in sight all about it. And like many Americans, foreigners were equally baffled about the election’s outcome, and couldn’t help but pepper me with questions as they tried to make sense of what happened.

So what does this all have to do with me and my passions?

I recently read Brené Brown’s The Gifts of Imperfection, in which she discusses the concept of a “slash career,” put forth by Marci Alboher. Essentially, the idea behind it is that people don’t need to limit themselves to a single professional identity, or even a single field. Instead, it’s fine to be a Doctor/Artist or Engineer/Musician (notice the slashes?), identifying two distinct passions or identities and taking on them both simultaneously without having to pick a single career or chosen pursuit.

This really was a moment of epiphany for me. I started the Travel Savvy Gal blog at a point in time when I was not working a regular job. People still ask me if my plan is to become a Blogger full-time. “Oh no,” I say, “blogging is a hobby, professionally I am still an Educator.” But this idea of a “slash career” meant that I didn’t have to choose, I could be both! From that moment on, I started thinking of myself as an Educator and a Travel Blogger, two pursuits I considered as disparate as being a Doctor and an Artist.

“It’s great,” I thought, because my education background is teaching high school mathematics so the “Educator” title would cover the logical, rational, mathematical side of my brain and the “Travel Blogger” title would be my completely different, creative pursuit in writing and communication. Two completely different areas where I find personal fulfillment and two different pursuits tapping into totally different parts of my brain.

This world view held for months, and it was only after the US election that the two ideas, my two passions that I had considered so completely separate, began to come together in my mind.

After Donald Trump became the US President-Elect, the questions swirled…

How could this happen?

How could America elect someone with no experience in elected office?

How could the same country who *re-elected* America’s 1^st black President four years ago now elect someone who had spoken out against many minority groups?

Why did so many Americans fear the “other”?

And perhaps most importantly,

What needs to happen in the coming four years so that Americans support a candidate in the next presidential election who favors openness, international engagement, and welcoming refugees and immigrants?

Of course, I grappled with these questions and thought extensively about what I thought would be the “solution” to counter America’s isolationism and the desire many Americans felt to withdraw from the world stage and focus solely on issues at home instead.

What could convince Americans to be more open to strangers and foreigners?

What would make Americans believe that most refugees were simple people in a rough situation they did not create, and did not pose a security threat?

What would need to happen so that Americans wanted to engage with and not withdraw from the international community?

And honor our obligations to the international community?

After much pondering, the two answers I came upon: Travel & Education.

Travel.

Traveling of course can range from being sequestered in an all-inclusive resort and never setting foot outside to being completely immersed in the villages and with the people of a foreign country. Most of my travel falls into the latter category, and it is this kind of travel I’m talking about. Even if it’s minimal contact on a single-day jaunt away from the resort or off of a cruise ship, to me travel means both contact with locals and exposure to a different culture and a different way of doing things. And eye-opening travel can also be within your home country, to another state or region that does things a bit differently.

If you’ve never left the familiar comforts of home, you’ll never realize how much you take for granted. All of those things you simply think are universal or fixed in place, but it is only exposure to another place or another culture that allows you to see a different approach. For me, travel has allowed me to see that their can be two approaches to a situation, both different, yet both equally valid. There can be multiple right ways to do something, it all depends on your perspective. It is that open-minded thinking that I believe can prevent politics from becoming emotionally-charged and hugely divisive, and in many ways a type of thinking that is enhanced by travel.

“Travel is fatal to prejudice, bigotry, and narrow-mindedness.” – Mark Twain

On the road, you’ll often meet people of other nationalities, economic brackets, professions, and walks of life. Being outside of your normal routine, you’re more likely to cross paths with someone you wouldn’t have encountered back at home, even if it is someone of the same nationality. Through these interactions with someone who on the surface is quite different from you, that is where the commonality of the human condition emerges. Some of the most impoverished people I’ve met in my travels have the same basic concerns as people everywhere: how to best take care of their families and creating a better future for their children. These first-hand interactions that come from travel really make it so clear that people around the world have more in common than is different.

Education.

Sure, you say, travel is great, but not everyone has the ability or financial means to travel. While I would dispute the idea that travel is outside of the reach of many people, that is a conversation for another day. Among both the frequent travelers and those who never stray outside of a short distance from home, I know that education can teach different approaches and ways of thinking about the world, just as travel does.

People often say to me that it must be so easy being a math teacher and grading papers because there is only one right answer to a math problem. But that is not the case at all! Even for a problem that has a single number as an answer, there are so many different possible approaches that assignments and exams can be quite difficult to grade. And of course the real mathematical analysis comes into play when you ask a student to come up with multiple, valid ways to solve a single math problem. That is where the real expansive thinking comes in, brainstorming multiple approaches that can all be simultaneously correct.

I see education as a “solution” to isolationism because it has the capacity to expose people to a diversity of ideas and approaches, in mathematics and of course all the other subjects, too. Good education teaches critical thinking and provides students with the skills to compete in a global economy rather than fear it. And education inspires students to take the initiative to do research and be responsible for their own learning, drawing their own conclusions and not just accepting what others say at face value.

Connecting the Two?

Interestingly, I am not alone when it comes to having both travel and education as a passion. There are a ton of other travel bloggers out there who are also educators, something I was surprised to discover (but really shouldn’t have been). Sure, you say, of course teachers travel a lot because they get summers off. However, I don’t think it is just because of the vacation time – although many teachers certainly use that to their advantage – but also because of that common drive we teachers have to discover and explore the world around us. And just because teachers travel a lot would not necessarily mean that they also become travel bloggers in droves, although that too is what seems to have happened.

If you are a teacher, you not only have an intellectual curiosity about the world around you, but you seek to share your experiences and knowledge with others: your students. That is where the crossover between academic and professor occurs, and also the crossover between avid traveler and travel blogger – not just traveling but also sharing the resulting expertise and perspective with the world.

Of course, there are ways to simultaneously unite travel and education, instead of just keeping them as parallel yet related passions, and there are travel bloggers out there doing just that. As for me, at this point I don’t know if I’ll integrate my two passions of travel and education or keep them as separate pursuits, but certainly they are not nearly as different as I originally thought.

Do you have multiple passions or careers that you’ve chosen to pursue? How do you reconcile these different aspects of who you are? I’ve obviously been grappling with these issues, so help me out here =) Share your strategies (and ongoing struggles) in the Comments below!

Ways Hospitality in Oman will Wow You!

February 7, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Hospitality is renowned throughout the Middle East, but in Oman is in a league of its own. My recent week-long road trip through Oman was nowhere near my first visit to the region. I lived in Israel for a year nearly two decades ago, and have been back there many times since. I’ve traveled in Jordan and Egypt. I explored parts of the United Arab Emirates (UAE) after Oman. But none of those places can compare with Oman in terms of hospitality.

As a native New Yorker, I always find it a bit unsettling when I’m traveling and people seem super-nice. Are they trying to scam me? Take advantage of me somehow? Overcharge me for my purchase? My senses are heightened and I try to take everything with a grain of salt, figuring out what is real versus contrived. Also, I traveled in Oman with my sister, so wondered as two females traveling alone in a Muslim nation, would there be anything we needed to worry about?

After the first few days in Oman, however, it became apparent that Omanis were nice, gracious, and always jumping at the chance to help you. At every turn, it seemed like all of the locals we encountered were interested in going out of their way to make our stay as comfortable and enjoyable as possible. Any time we stopped the car briefly on the side of the road to figure out directions, an Omani would suddenly appear to provide directions and offer help. Pretty quickly we realized that we should simply relax and appreciate the generosity and hospitality being shown to us.

One of the things that stands out in my mind is that there is a ton of hospitality around food. Anything you’re served will involve huge attention to detail. Sometimes there was even a woven contained for your bottled water to accompany your meal!

Oman is especially known for its coffee and fresh dates, which will make an appearance at the end of meals and greeting you in hotel lobbies, offered of course free of charge. Omani coffee, known as kahwa, is not your typical Western concoction. Instead it consists of an incredibly aromatic brew, infused with cardamom, sometimes cloves, and other spices. And despite my extensive travels in the Middle East, it was only on this trip to Oman that I found true date heaven. Fresh dates were always offered alongside Omani coffee, and the freshest and most delicious dates of my life were sampled throughout Oman. Even at our most budget accommodation – a double room for the equivalent of $40 US – coffee and dates were available around the clock for a touch of comfort during our stay.

Not anticipating Omani hospitality also caused us to over-order at many of our meals. There is of course the dishes you pick out from the menu to satiate your appetite. But more often than not, there was also additional food that simply arrived at the table. Most commonly, huge portions of bread and salad arrived along with the other dishes. Sometimes there were other appetizers that simply appeared after placing our order. So we figured out to scale back a bit by the end of the week, anticipating the ever-present Omani hospitality, although I don’t think we ever cleared all of our plates.

Then there was the time that someone really went out of their way to offer help. My sister and I were driving through an area in the middle of the country, where most accommodations involve tents in the middle of the desert. And we were in the most budget economy car we could find – a quite compact Toyota Yaris. All of a sudden, we get flashed by the truck behind us to pull over. My safety radar immediately goes off, and I’m cautious as I open the window, thinking that maybe the brake light is out or something is wrong with the car? No, the helpful local is asking us where we’re staying and making sure that we realize that we can’t drive our teeny vehicle into the desert, or we will get stranded. He even offers to give us a ride. Fortunately we had already realized this, and arranged for the owner to pick us up in his 4×4 and take us to our tent accommodation for the night. But this is certainly the first time anywhere that someone was driving along next to me and was so concerned for my safety and well-being that they stopped the car to offer assistance.

The next morning, after a very hospitality tent stay in the desert, we continue on our way. Our first stop after picking up our non-desert ready budget vehicle is a collection of stores to pick up items for a picnic lunch during our hike in nearby Wadi Khalid. First, we get some sandwiches to take with us. Then, we stop into the nearby fruit stand (all markets in Oman are pretty specialized) to pick up some additional snacks. After picking out some clementines, I approach the vendor to pay. He looks at us, then shifts his gaze to the fruit, and again back at us. While he doesn’t speak any English, he gestures at us in a way that seems to indicate that he is offering us the fruit for free. I try to communicate back, are you sure?, with the shrug of my shoulders and facial expression. Now he is motioning with insistence – yes, the fruit is ours to take, free of charge. If this had been in the first day of traveling in Oman, I would have been incredibly confused and nervous about misinterpreting the gesture. Several days into experiencing Omani hospitality, I realize that he is being generous with us, guests to his country. I say a grateful shukran, Arabic for thank you, as I depart with the fruit in hand.

Just when I think that I have seen it all when it comes to Omani hospitality, the country has one more crazy experience in store for me and my sister. We arrive at Wadi Khalid and know that one of the first things we are looking to do is check out the well-known cave with water flowing inside. It is actually well-signed, so we start off on the trail following the direction of the arrows over the rocks. As we go, we catch up to someone who seems to be Omani although he addresses us in English. We find out his name is Sayeed, local to the area although he lives in Muscat now, and he offers to be our personal tour guide to the cave.

Anywhere else, the offer would have screamed danger, but in Oman it’s just a local being nice. And it ended up being amazing, because the cave was really cramped with no light and difficult to navigate. As we were entering, there were other tourists leaving after only venturing into the cave a little bit. Because we were with someone who knew the ins and outs of navigating the cave, we managed to see the water source far into the caverns, peer at some sleeping bats hiding in the darkness, and find our way out without getting lost once. Sayeed was a knowledgeable and informative guide as well, describing the history of the area and how locals grow up playing inside the cave. The whole time I just kept thinking that we were so fortunate to have a local to show us around, and that our experience would not have been anywhere near as incredible without his hospitality. He even suggested some cultural events in the area to check out that evening.

Of all the things I expected from the road trip with my sister through Oman, such extensive hospitality was not one of them. Certainly, we exhibited good tourist practices while there – knowing a few words of Arabic and wearing modest dress, even for swimming – but the kindness of our Omani hosts everywhere we went made it an even-more amazing (and welcoming) travel experience.

Where have you experienced the most gracious hospitality in your travels?

10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

November 17, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Every time I’m in Venice, I feel like I am seeing visitors who arrive unprepared. Situated on an archipelago of many nearby islands with canals and waterways in between, Venice is a different kind of city than the ones you’re used to back home. Here are my Commandments for Visiting Venice, to make the most of your time in the city:

Get ready to climb some bridges. Yes, you know that Venice is a city of islands, but you may not have thought about what logically follows – there are a ton of bridges connecting the various parts of the city. A 10-minute walk could easily involve 5 bridges to cross. And since all of the waterways have active boat traffic, the bridges typically involve a series of steps up one side and then down the other to allow enough room underneath for the boats to pass.
Leave your wheelie bags at home. If you formed a mental picture of how many stairs you’ll be climbing up and down as you traverse Venice’s many bridges, you’ll understand my strong recommendation that you leave your wheeled luggage at home. Plus, when there’s not a bridge to cross, the streets tend to be cobblestone, which is not fun for you – or for your bag. Although rumors a few years back of a ban on wheeled suitcases are not true, it’s still wise to do without.TIP! If you must bring large luggage on wheels to Venice, stay somewhere that is a short walk or direct vaporetto (public transit boat) ride away. Even the hotels just opposite the train station involve crossing one of the taller bridges, so if you must bring a wheelie bag, stick to the same side of the train station or boat stop for your accommodation.
Getting anywhere will take at least twice as long as you expect, especially on foot. People walk slowly in Venice, and many “streets” are just narrow passageways with no room to pass. There is not always a bridge where you’d like one, especially across the Grand Canal. It is also hard to navigate around Venice, so you may end up down a dead-end street or try to walk along the water’s edge only to discover that the path ends abruptly and you’ll need extra time to backtrack to your route.
Keep an eye on the signs. I remember while preparing for my first trip to Venice that one of the guidebooks suggested wandering to Saint Mark’s Square as a recommended activity. Then when I arrived, there were large signs everywhere I turned saying “Per S. Marco” with an arrow pointing the way. While this makes it harder to “wander,” these signs are your friends when it comes to navigating! Nothing will slow you down more than every minute or two stopping foot traffic to check your phone or try to make sense of a paper map. It will speed up your walking time immensely if you know which way you’re headed and use the signs to guide you.TIP! Even if you’re going somewhere else, know which of the places on the typical street signs are in the same direction you’re trying to go. The most common signs will be for: S. Marco (Saint Mark’s Square), Rialto (the Rialto bridge), Accademia (art museum, but *also* indicates the location of the other main pedestrian bridge across the Grand Canal besides by the train station), Ferrovia (the train station), & Piazzale Roma (the bus station).
TIP! The signs don’t appear every block, but once they indicate a direction, keep walking that way (including over bridges) until you see the next sign.
Explore areas off the beaten path. No, I don’t mean the famous islands when I say this. The main islands that form Venice have plenty of neighborhoods away from the most popular tourist attractions, and this is a great way to get a feel for the city and its people.
That said, visit at least one island away from the main section of Venice. Lido, Giudecca, and Murano are the closest islands, while Burano and others are a longer boat ride away. Not only is it great to get a view of the main section of Venice from the water, each island has its own flavor that will give you a fuller picture of the city overall. And some islands are known for their local crafts (like Murano for blown glass and Burano for lace and its colored houses) that you can explore through various museums and shops when you visit.
Take a boat ride. Besides walking, the most budget-friendly (and fastest) way to get around Venice is often the vaporetto, which is the pubic transit boat. An individual ride is pricey, but the single-day and several-day passes are good value – decide which one is right for you before you arrive.Many people also come to Venice with the romantic notion of a gondola ride. If this is non-negotiable for you, by all means do it. However not only is this quite expensive, but gondolas are restricted to certain routes and there’s basically a continuous line of gondolas one after another in a bit of a traffic jam, so you are not likely to get the romantic seclusion you may have envisioned.
There are also a few alternative options. First, ride the vaporetto. You may find that the experience along the Grand Canal or traveling to one of the islands (see #6 above) gives you enough of a view of Venice from the water that you are satisfied. You can also at some point take a taxi boat, for example back to your hotel after dinner and a long day of walking around. Or, for the tour experience, while the gondolas are too tiny to go in the Grand Canal, for a similar price you can get a private boat hire (different from a taxi) that can give you a bit of a tour and private ride along Venice’s largest waterway.
Eat like the locals. There are some lovely seafood restaurants and fancy Venetian fare to sample – and you should. But if you really want to eat like a local, take in an early evening drink with some Venetian tapas, cicchetti. Never heard of them? Check out my post on the best spots in Venice to sample cicchetti.
Follow the Italian. No, I’m not suggesting that you stalk someone. But do listen for the places where you hear Italian spoken, or where the locals are congregating. This is your best indicator for a spot worth checking out.
Chat up the Venetians. Whether this is the person working at your hotel, a server at dinner, or the friendly person pouring wine with your cicchetti, you can always get the best feel for a place from the people from the city. There have been some protests lately against the tourist influx and a campaign to ban large cruise ships, so engender some goodwill by showing genuine interest in the local opinion and experience, even if it’s as simple as taking a recommendation for a local’s favorite glass of wine instead of sticking to the one name you recognize on the list. Even with the recent protests, Venetians are curious and friendly if you’re respectful of local tradition and willing to open up.
Be spontaneous and enjoy! Okay, so this is a bonus one, but also important. Most visitors to Venice have a short amount of time to spend in the city, and jam pack an itinerary filled with museum visits and timed activities. Some of the best experiences I’ve had in Venice have been ones I couldn’t have planned in advance (like an art exhibit I saw a poster for and then visited, or a side street that led straight to a stunning view of the Grand Canal), so leave time in the schedule for spontaneity – you won’t regret it!