13 Things I Didn’t Know about Oktoberfest (until I went)

September 20, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

But Lana, you say, it’s only September. Why write about Oktoberfest now? Well, actually that brings me right into my list of what I *didn’t* know about Oktoberfest until I went:

Oktoberfest is so named because it *ends* in October. It starts in mid-September.More precisely, Oktoberfest runs for 16 days ending on the first Sunday in October, so some years there are very few days in the month of October that are part of the festivities. Some years – like this one – have October 3^rd (German National Day) falling after the first Sunday, so Oktoberfest gets extended until then.
Oktoberfest in Munich is the most famous, and the one on most people’s bucket lists. But it isn’t the *only* Oktoberfest. If low-key is more your scene, other Oktoberfests are held in the fall throughout Germany. Berlin and Stuttgart, along with other Germany cities, also host relatively large Oktoberfest gatherings. And there are even Oktoberfests organized all over the world! Wikipedia has a good round-up here if you’re looking for an Oktoberfest celebration a little closer to home.
Accommodations (even private rooms in hostels!) are super-expensive and sell out early.When first looking into going to Oktoberfest, I wanted to be sure I had a place to sleep, and actually started by looking into local hostels. A lot of Munich hostel options turned out being *more* expensive that other local hotels, and seemed to sell out sooner. If you’re making plans relatively last-minute, I can highly recommend Hotel Uhland, where I ended up staying. You must book by contacting them personally and pre-pay, which means that they still have available rooms after other booking sites have sold out and re-release rooms if payment is not received. Plus, they offer parking and are in an excellent location – close to the metro and city center, and very easy walking distance to the Oktoberfest grounds.
Beer festival and carnival in one!

Oktoberfest is really a giant carnival held on a huge grassy expanse.I really thought that Oktoberfest was all about the beer. Until I went, that is. It is held on an enormous plot of land, with your typical carnival rides as far as the eye can see. There were even a lot of families with children enjoying the experience. As for riding the rides, I recommend that you pace yourself between drinking before going on a ride that will spin you and have you hanging upside down 😉
Oktoberfest is FREE.Well, of course you’ll be paying for food, beer, and any rides or souvenirs you purchase, but attending itself is completely free. This could even be a relatively budget-friendly trip, if you find cheap enough accommodations (and don’t drink too much beer).

Many people dress up, but don’t worry, lots of people don’t.Before I went, I casually looked into how much I would have to spend to purchase a traditional German outfit called a dirndl, and the prices were outrageous. But once Oktoberfest has started in Munich, there are deep discounts to be had, especially toward the end of the festival. I bought my entire dirndl (there are a few different parts to the outfit) at a pop-up shop for just 30 Euro. If you are the crafty type, it wouldn’t take much sewing to make your own outfit. And if you’re a man, it seems that wearing any plaid shirt and dark colored shorts or pants will enable you to fit in, and plenty of more authentic outfits are for sale as well.

The Oktoberfest fairgrounds are not in the city center, so you could go to Oktoberfest and never really visit the city of Munich.I just assumed that Oktoberfest would take over the city center, with tents setup throughout the cobblestone streets, but this is not quite true – see #4 above. If you need a morning break from drinking (and you probably will) join the many other Oktoberfest visitors making the trek to the city center to actually see a bit of Munich. It is very walkable, with beautiful old buildings and a lot of casual outdoor eateries to take advantage of when lunchtime rolls around. Just don’t wait too long to head over the the Oktoberfest fairgrounds and snag your spot at a table in one of the tents.

Beer comes by the LITER.Yes, by the liter! It’s a very large amount of beer – if you’re having trouble picturing it, this is a bit more than 2 pints and around 34 ounces. Plan your drinking accordingly. On my biggest day, I drank 4 liters over the course of many, many hours. You may drink more or less, but if you really want to enjoy your time at Oktoberfest, don’t overdo it on your first day there.
Many people who attend are tourists, not necessarily heavy drinkers or beer aficionados.There are a ton of tourists who are coming to Oktoberfest for a once-in-a-lifetime experience. Then they arrive, and discover that beer is served by the liter – see #8 above. And these tourists only enjoy Oktoberfest for one day because they are too hungover to function by the second one. By breakfast Wednesday morning at my hotel, most tables were only occupied by one person because the spouse was not feeling well enough to come. Hopefully you’ve been keeping your tolerance high back at home if you’re planning to consume many liters of beer per day when you arrive. Either way though, pace yourself so you can enjoy all of your time at Oktoberfest, especially if your visit is likely to be your only one.
You can only reserve space at a table in one of the tents for 10 or more people.Reserving will not be possible for most visitors who aren’t coming in that large of a group and don’t know any locals. That’s okay though, if you go to Oktoberfest on a weekday, people are generally friendly and there’s always room to get cozy and squeeze in 2 or 4 additional people at what might at first glance look like an already full table (this is possible on the weekends as well, but you’ll want to be there early in the morning to snag space).
Each tent is not really a tent but a fairly sturdy wooden structure.I feel like I had heard so much about the different tents at Oktoberfest that I had a picture in my mind of a very large circus tent with fabric flaps. Instead, walking onto the Oktoberfest grounds you see what look like very large wooden lodge houses. It still a “tent” because it is not permanent, although you wouldn’t know this by looking at the buildings. Inside there are wooden picnic tables with long benches, and even proper bathrooms. So don’t worry, you won’t be roughing it to enjoy the various “tents.”
Servers come to the tables.I guess I hadn’t really thought about this ahead of time, but it would be quite the chaotic scene if there were no servers. First, find a seat, then find a server to place your order (for both beer and food from the formal menu). Some tents have an assigned person for each table or there are roving servers for you to flag down. There are also roving vendors for the more portable food, like pretzels. And remember who took your order in case your beer or food gets lost in the chaos and you want to flag someone down to ask.

Each tent is also a giant party, with a live band playing sets all day and night long. If you don’t know German drinking songs, you will by the end of your time at Oktoberfest!The music selections vary by the tent, the time of day, and span from traditional German jigs (oopmah, not polka, if you ask a German) to Top 40 hits from recent decades. And every so often – several times an hour – each band in all of the tents break out with the same German drinking song called “Ein Prosit” that everyone sings along with and toasts to at the end. The later in the day it is, the more people start standing on the benches as soon as the first few notes start. Get into the Oktoberfest spirit and learn the words here.

And Travel Savvy Gal’s *TOP* tip for Oktoberfest in Munich – Go during the week.

Everything is easier: finding hotel reservations, getting a seat in a tent, flagging down a server, and most importantly, making friends =)

Prost!!

Have you been to Oktoberfest in Munich? What were some of the things that surprised you? Or what was the most surprising thing for you from my list? Are you going to Oktoberfest and still have questions I can help with? Let me know in the Comments section below.

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Best Bites: Where to Eat in Rome

August 17, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Rome is a feast for the senses. The iconic sights, the sounds of the city, and the feel of the cobblestone under your feet as you stroll. And yes, of course, all of that delicious food.

You might sense a great restaurant first by the enticing aroma wafting toward you as you happen past. Or perhaps spying that gelateria with a line snaking out the door on a weekday afternoon.

Although I did a fair bit of planning before all of my trips to Rome, in the end it was the combination of my research, geography, and my senses telling me the signals were right that led to my favorite spots and my most delicious meals.

Sometimes I was at a museum or doing some sightseeing, then found a nearby gem. Other times I trekked across town to sample the food of a particular restaurant, and then got lost exploring the nearby neighborhood. All wonderful ways to really explore the wonders a city like Rome has to offer.

Read on for the results of my culinary wanderings and the delicious bites I enjoyed along the way.

Top Restaurant Picks

Al Vecchio Galeone

I went when I stayed at a guesthouse nearby, and the “Old Galleon” was quite the seafood gem out of the heart of the city. I dined here solo and the staff were nothing but welcoming, and the food was Italian comfort food. There is definitely a relaxed vibe with the décor and friendliness, and lots of families were enjoying communal meals here as a place out where you can still get a pretty traditional home-cooked meal out of the house.

C’è pasta e pasta

This is probably the most casual spot on my list, with food served cafeteria style. It’s piled high on your plate, heated up for you, then offered on a plastic cafeteria tray. There are an array of dishes coming from the 2,000+ year-old Roman Jewish culinary traditions, and this was what I came to sample. And it was delicious! Just ask the helpful staff to point you in the direction of the traditional options being offered that day, and it’s all certified kosher. And even though it’s cafeteria style, this is Italy after all, so enjoy your meal with a glass of wine.

Cesare al Casaletto

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This is the place to go for slightly upscale Roman cuisine, with the price and quality to match. Conveniently located at the end of a tram line from central Rome, you’ll savor impeccable service and well-executed dishes, although for me as a solo traveler it was a bit formal compared to the places I usually prefer.

Ditirambo

This gem wasn’t on any list, but a quaint spot I stumbled upon on a centrally located pedestrian side street. Ask for what dishes are best that day, and you’ll be reward with beautifully presented and delicious food. Don’t miss the biscottini on offer at the end of the meal.

Osteria Bonelli

This spot is wayyyyy off the beaten path for most tourists to Rome, but was hands-down my favorite meal in the city. Although I trekked quite a bit to eat here, I was rewarded with exploring a neighborhood on foot, and a prime viewing position by a quite intact section of the Aurelian wall around Rome. Plan an extended time to fit Osteria Bonelli into your itinerary, but it will be worth it for the down home traditional cooking that you order off the hand-written menu on a chalkboard – and a taste of what it’s like to experience Italy like a local.

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TIP! Reserve a table in advance so you’re not disappointed when you arrive. It may be far away from most tourists, but this place seems like it’s always packed!

Pizzarium Bonci

Roman pizza may not be the image of pizza that first comes to mind. Most people conjure up the familiar round Neapolitan concoction, while Roman pizza is made in rectangular slabs. The good news? Unlike having to pick a single flavor for a round pizza all to yourself, you can mix and match different flavors, directing them behind the counter to cut each section in the size you’d like. This was my last stop before the train back to Milan, so I loaded up on several flavors I enjoyed en route and once I arrived, and they were all incredible.

TIP! Although I think that Roman pizza is best enjoyed in Rome, Pizzarium actually just opened an American outpost in Chicago this week for my American readers!

Trattoria del Gato Bianco

It’s central, and it’s some high-quality traditional Italian cuisine. There are lots of dishes to sample local Roman specialties, but really anything you order will be delicious. One of the better authentic options close to the Pantheon and Piazza Navona, and in the case of me and my sister, served by a welcoming Italian grandmother who doted on us.

Fancy Spots to Check out Next Time

As per usual, I left Rome on my last visit with a list of places for next time. Despite multiple trips, I haven’t yet experienced Rome’s fine dining scene. When I do, two places top my list:

La Pergola

This is your three-star Michelin dining, for the really exceptional splurge while in Rome. The tasting menu price will set you back quite a few Euros, but this is the foodie experience many dream of. This is the ultimate in fancy Rome dining for the truly special occasion.

Pataclara

Pataclara is my top pick for a splurge on my next visit to Rome. Although the website is entirely in Italian, you can see how each dish is a work of art when you click the link above. There are quite a number of options of dishes a la carte as well as 3 degustazioni, or tasting menus at different price points. You can certainly eat in Rome for less, but I get the impression that both the €45 and €60 tasting menus are an absolute bargain for how much you’ll enjoy the food here.

Gelato Spots

There are a lot of gelaterie in Rome, and I tried many more than made this list. For me, that perfect gelato has a combination of silky smooth texture mixed with intense flavor that gives you pause. Here are two spots where you’ll have that gelato epiphany:

Gelateria Fatamorgana

Think of the most crazy flavor combination you can. It’s probably one of your choices at any Fatamorgana branch around Rome, in addition to more traditional flavors. The good news is that wherever you are in the city, there’s probably one relatively close. I visited a branch not terribly far from the Colisseum, but just a far enough stroll that it was filled with neighborhood locals with barely another tourist in sight.

Gelateria dei Gracchi

This is the only gelateria in Rome that wowed me so much that I visited twice in two days. There are a couple of centrally located outposts. I visited the one by the Lepanto metro stop, and was instantly transported to foodie heaven as I enjoyed their crema di pinoli flavor, which is luxuriously creamy and perfectly flavored with pine nut intensity. There’s a reason you’ll be lined up here with the locals.

There’s certainly no shortage of places to eat in Rome, but of course if you want a wonderful meal, that narrows the field considerably. Even if you’re limited on time and sticking to the tourist highlights, there are lots of great restaurants in close proximity – you just need to know where to go.

What are your favorite places to eat in Rome? Have you been to anywhere from the list? Any other restaurants I should try? Help me decide which spots to savor on my next visit!

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An Encounter in Rome: Tales from the Road

July 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“OK, I’ll go around the block, and if I don’t find somewhere else, I’ll come back here.”

This might sound like part of a conversation, but this was just me negotiating with myself, with the convincing voice in my head making a mental deal to only look just a little bit further to find a place to eat lunch.

On this brisk day last fall, I was walking around by the Pantheon in Rome, Italy. It’s a pretty popular part of town with visitors, but I didn’t want to end up in a tourist trap restaurant with mediocre fare. I had done research and marked some spots nearby as possibilities, but as I strolled and perused their menus along the way, nothing really inspired me.

It’s the quintessential tourist experience. You’re hot, you’ve been walking around all morning so your feet are getting tired, and your stomach is now grumbling so you’re just hunting for anywhere to sit down for a bit to rest your legs and have your lunch.

This is the point where most people stop at the first place they see and take their chances. And there’s nothing wrong with that.

But if you’ve read other blog posts that I’ve written and gleaned something about my travel style, you know that grabbing a seat at the first available restaurant is not my typical approach. I’ll go somewhere random in a pinch, but especially when I have limited time in a city known for its cuisine, I try to be a bit more discerning with my choices.

And if I’m traveling solo like I was on this trip, I get to decide all on my own how much time and distance I’m willing to trek for a good meal.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Finally I passed one place that wasn’t super exciting, but was certainly good enough and I was getting quite hungry by this point. And this is when I made the deal with myself – that I’d go around one more block to look for alternatives, and then would make a decision and end up *somewhere* for my meal.

Fortunately, as I rounded the corner, there were two more spots across from one another on a cobblestone pedestrian street, and the first one I stopped at had an interesting enough menu to pique my interest. Plus, I was quite hungry, and there was a table available outside so that settled it and I got comfortable.

Normally I would have asked the server for advice on what to order. Especially in Italy, servers will typically steer you to a favorite dish or what is freshest that day, so even if it’s not what you would have picked, it’s often your best bet for a wonderful meal.

I probably should have done that here as well, but after all my trekking I just picked a few things and didn’t have much in the way of expectations for what would arrive in front of me. Luckily for me, lunch was good and I was pleasantly surprised with how beautifully the dishes were presented:

Once I finished, the server was bustling at the bar inside so instead of waiting for someone to appear to ask for the check (this can take ages it Italy as it’s considered rude to bring a check when someone’s enjoying a meal), I went inside to pay. Since I was planning to pay with my Italian bancomat (debit) card, it was likely I’d have to go inside anyway to use the machine anyway.

It was when I politely requested the check that my whole impression of the meal and restaurant began to shift. In an interaction I had played out many times at restaurants all over Italy, as I’m standing at the coffee bar inside, I was offered dessert and politely declined.

“Oh, but we have these special biscottini made in house that you absolutely must try.”

An offer that is always hard to refuse, so I accepted.

At my first bite into the surprisingly moist yet still crumbly and flavorful cookie, my casual demeanor changes to one of intense concentration. I chew slowly, trying to figure out what exactly is making my taste buds dance with delight. I’m not sure what it is, but the biscottini are truly outstanding and different from anything I’ve ever tried (and that’s saying something, trust me!)

As I start up a nonchalant conversation to try and find out what exactly is it that I’m both savoring and devouring, the waiter insists that I must have some moscato dessert wine, because it is the absolute perfect pairing with the cookie (which of course turns out to be the case, and I’m given quite the healthy pour as you can see):

I begin sipping away, savoring all of the flavors together, and then I get the real gem: the recipe! Easy to memorize, but hard to follow. No numbers, no details, just the typical Italian approach of a few high-quality ingredients, combined in precisely the right proportion, to fabulous result:

White wine
Oil
Flour
Hazelnut

Yup, that’s it. Sounds simple enough, but I don’t know how I would even begin to approach combine those 4 things in the right way and cooking it ‘just so’ to get the result I enjoyed that afternoon.

And keep in mind that this was on all Italian generosity, as I had long paid my bill. I was just having a connection and an experience over food. The Italian way.

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I’m now back in US after 3 years living in Milan, Italy. I keep trying to explain what it was like living there – the coffee, the food, the wine, the atmosphere on the streets, the people, the hospitality.

My words often fail me. Even though I’ve now had 6+ months of practice fielding those questions, the right response that conveys the spirit of what I’m missing continues to elude me.

It is really hard to explain what living in Italy is like without living there yourself. Strolling the cobblestone streets day after day and engaging in all of those little interactions – at the coffee bar, boarding the tram, in line at the post office – that comprise a day in the life of an Italian (or anyone else who is lucky enough to live there).

For whatever reason, I’ve had a lot of reminders of Italy this week and it is making me miss it terribly, although I’m not sure that “homesick” is the right term for what I have.

Which is why I’m thinking and writing of this wonderful encounter in Rome that was so typically Italian in so many ways – the service I received, the openness of my server to strike up a conversation, & the insistence of trying the house specialty because someone put their heart and soul into its creation. Making the server happy to watch me savoring the biscottini he had raved about. Reflecting the well-known Italian “fact” that if you’re eating, you must also drink for proper enjoyment of both.

And leaving with a full heart and a recipe in my pocket.

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Have you experienced a similar memorable travel encounter? Share your inspiration in the ‘Comments’ below. In these days of longing and wanderlust, I need all the help I can get!

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Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave, a Mayan Archaeological Wonder

July 11, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

I’m in a cave mostly engulfed in darkness, swimming. The water is cool, but I’ve just nearly become acclimated to the chill. I’ve hit a rhythm with my strokes, despite being in clothes and shoes as I chug along, weighed down ever so slightly.

And then I see it. An outcropping of rock nearly touching the surface of the water, not leaving much space to squeeze through with my head above water. I’m petite, so I feel like I can turn myself sideways and lift my chin, and just make my way through.

Until I remember that I’m wearing a helmet with a protruding headlamp. There’s no way I’ll fit in the tiny gap of air with my head above water.

So I take a deep inhale, dive head-first under the water and give a sharp kick to propel myself forward, trusting on sheer faith that I’ll emerge at the surface on the other side, to take another breath.

For some, I might have described your worst nightmare, however in Belize it is just another routine day exploring the ATM Cave. And while I really didn’t have much of an idea exactly what I was signing up for, there is such rich history and adventure that when I’ve encountered other travelers who have been to Belize, inevitably they all ask, “Did you make it to the ATM Cave?”

Signing Up for the ATM Cave Tour

San Ignacio, a Belizean town in the west of the country, close to the Guatemalan border, was my first stop when I arrived in Belize and served as a home base for my first five nights. Arriving mid-afternoon, I strolled around town to get my bearings, scope out nearby restaurants, and speak to a few tour providers about options for the next day.

Everyone I spoke with said the same thing when asked which day trip was best: an excursion to the ATM Cave. As a solo traveler, and with most tours having a 2-person minimum, I was limited to tours that others had already reserved. But fortunately there is one tour that nearly every provider runs daily – the one to the ATM Cave.

Don’t confuse ATM with that darling machine that dispenses cash, in this case it stands for the Mayan name of the archaeological burial site, Achtun Tunichil Muknal. Let’s just say that I was pretty convinced by this point, and signed up for an all-day tour departing the next morning.

When you go, I can’t recommend Francisco of Mayawalk Tours enough for a visit to the ATM Cave, be sure you visit with him! (Not sponsored, he is just really fabulous.)

Other than what to pack, I didn’t really ask many questions, and in my head simply expected it to be like other caving and spelunking I’ve done.

I knew my shoes would get wet (or I had the option of borrowing enclosed water shoes), to wear a bathing suit, & to bring a change of clothes, which all sounded to me like pretty standard for a caving trip that would involve some water. I had been in the water and mud in caves before, from my muddy experience on the spelunking tour of the Grotte di Frasassi in Le Marche, Italy and the occasional swimming section during a 7km underground tour of the Paradise Cave in Vietnam.

How different could this be?

Getting to the ATM Cave Entrance

Once the van arrives in the parking area just under an hour from San Ignacio, everyone off-loads and gets their gear together, as well as setting aside all valuables, phones, and cameras to be locked in the vehicle and left behind, watched by the driver. I got one last photo here at the entrance to the trail before parting ways with my technology:

On the way to the drop-off spot though, the van had to cross a not inconsequential puddle mini-lake on the way – which should have been the first sign of what was to come. We hadn’t even arrived at the entrance, and already we were fording a decently-sized body of water.

Yes, I had been caving before. Yes, I knew there would be at least some swimming inside of the cave. But no, I did not realize exactly how much swimming would be involved even on the hike to get to the cave entrance!

Like several places in Belize, tour guides are required to enter the ATM Cave, so I fell in line with my guide and the rest of the group from the drop off point, and we started making our way to the cave. Within the first 10 minutes, the level of swimming started to become clear as we strolled up to a lake with a flimsy rope strung across.

I confidently started taking steps to walk through the water, straining my arm muscles to keep my water container lifted above the water’s surface. About a third of the way across, it became clear that this was a fool’s errand as my feet squished ever deeper into the mud at the bottom with each step and the chilly water continued to rise, soaking my bathing suit and clothes. I know when it’s time to surrender so I gave in and started to swim (fortunately with my impeccably sealed water bladder!) as the water bladder and the bag I was carrying it in became almost completely submerged.

Of course, as you pick up the trail on the far side of the water, you have just enough time to air dry in the tropical heat before you encounter – yep, you guessed it – the next section of water to cross. On the 40-minute hike from the parking area to the entrance, I definitely got my first taste of just how water-intensive my day at the ATM Cave would be.

Fortunately, right before the cave entrance there is a final pit stop (a few good looking trees, essentially) and hooks where you can leave your water bottle due to some of the tight spaces inside the cave. There’s one last preparation of getting a helmet with headlamp for the cave interior, and then off you go a tiny bit further on the path and down the steps toward the entrance.

And this is where the van experience – or at least the swimming sections along the approach where I emerged sopping wet – should have foreshadowed what comes next. How do you enter the cave? By swimming in, of course!

Inside the ATM Cave

So what’s with all this swimming, anyway? There are a lot of sections of the cave to explore. Some, like the ATM Cave entrance, are areas where you’ll swim. Others you’re merely wading in ankle-deep sections. And occasionally, as I mentioned at the beginning of the post, you’re up against a section that’s a tight squeeze and you plunge underwater between the rocks to get to the next section.

One of the things I didn’t expect? The water was chilly! And you’ll air dry in parts of the cave, which for me always made the next plunge into water requiring just a little bit more will power to enter. But what I love about travel is how it makes you push yourself to your limits – with the right motivation, of course.

Inside the long, meandering land and water pathway of the cave, there are rock surfaces etched out over thousands of years stretching up on either side. There are the typical stalactites and stalagmites you probably learned about in school, plus various other cave features like columns where the two have met each other and resemble a rippled tree trunk.

The ATM Cave is principally formed from limestone, so there are porous sections of the rock. Over time, as the water has forced its way through the nooks and crannies of the rock, the cave includes small sections and huge caverns depending on the water’s meandering path.

And the rock itself, beyond its growth and erosion over time, has a colorful story to tell. Throughout the journey we observed sparkling quartz, yellow sulfur deposits, shining black manganese, and distinctive swaths of red iron.

The retelling of the cave’s history and discovery weaves in with the different sections of the path through the cave, with areas where the light streamed in from overhead and other parts completely submerged in darkness and only illuminated by the glow of the headlamp.

The main attraction is an elevated section that boasts the Mayan relics and archaeological remains. Of course, the reward of experiencing this section of cave is only attained after overcoming a small trial.

There is a hill-shaped rock with different ridges, about 10 feet (or 3 meters) tall that you must climb to reach the coveted upper section of cave. I am an experienced rock climber, so this part was a breeze for me. But even with the wide range of ages and ability levels in my group, with a bit of coaching by our guide Francisco, we all made it to the top.

This is where you know the Belizeans are serious about preservation – everyone, guides included, toss their shoes by the wayside and proceed only with a pair of socks on to not cause too much damage to the site. There is a marked off path through the center, and wonders jutting out on either side.

What most people know about the ATM Cave is that it was the burial site (or relocation site) for Mayan skeletons over 1,000 years old. They are positioned in several different parts of this elevated section. Some skeletons are only partially exposed, with a part of a skull or fragment of bone protruding from the rock. You’ll pass small skeletons presumably of children and others that match with the small stature of a Mayan adult.

You’ll see the skull over a millenium old that was crushed by a tourist’s camera back in 2012, prompting the photography ban. And you’ll see what many consider the absolute highlight of a visit to the ATM cave, the “Crystal Maiden.”

It is definitely a young skeleton, and was thought for many years to be female, hence its name. Now it is believed that it might instead be a teenage male. According to the guides, most of the information about the gender of the skeleton interestingly enough comes from the assessment of various past visitors to the cave, including a doctor and an osteologist. In any case, the calcification of many centuries has led the skeleton to have the appearance of being encrusted in crystals:

Another impressive Mayan relic is the pottery. These vessels supposedly made using the coil method, look nothing like the rudimentary coil vases I constructed in my high school art class. Also, none of the pottery inside the ATM Cave is completely intact. The Mayans deliberately left them with a section removed, to allow the spirit to escape.

And as the cave was seen as the Underworld, with the roots of the local Ceiba tree ultimately transporting the souls of the Mayan skeletons through Earth to Heaven, there are also pottery altars for blood-letting and sacrifice. And it is believed that there was often older royalty buried with a younger skeleton to aid them in escaping the Underworld.

The souls of the Mayan skeletons are believed to have undergone quite the journey from the ATM Cave, and as a modern day visitor, I too, felt as if I had undergone a massive journey. One of adventure, caving, swimming, geology, and archaelogy, exploring the natural aspects of the cave and appreciating it for the significance it still holds for local Mayans.

It was seeing the rocks and formations of the cave, coupled with Mayan archaeological relics, along with the adventure of the swimming and climbing throughout the cave that really made this whole experience so incredible and memorable for me.

And now I understand why that first night in San Ignacio, Belize, this was the tour everyone couldn’t stop talking about.

Have you been caving before? Was your experience anything like Belize’s ATM Cave? Any other questions about what it’s like to visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments.’

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9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

June 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Belize is a destination that over-delivers, with unexpected adventure and incredibly easy travel on any budget.

My decision to visit Belize was a bit last-minute, so it ended up being a solo trip, since there wasn’t enough time to coordinate with anyone and I had a narrow time window that worked with my schedule. Certainly I love to travel solo, although I do think about and plan my travel a bit differently when I know I’ll be on my own.

Although I did a bit of extra planning and coordinated one organized tour in advance, a lot of the additional preparation was not needed. It was just such an easy place to visit, with really incredible sights to see and explore once you arrived! It even boasts the Belize Barrier Reef, the longest in the western hemisphere, making for great water adventures as well.

Even for those who can be a bit apprehensive about international travel, visiting Belize is a very relaxed and easy vacation to enjoy.

#1 | People are Friendly

I had only stopped for a moment after arriving in San Ignacio by bus, to glance at the map on my phone to locate my guesthouse. During this brief pause, the police officer directing traffic at the nearby roundabout headed my way to ask if he could help me find my destination.

This encounter was typical of many I had in Belize, with locals approaching you to offer help if you paused and looked confused. Or even if you approached them, like I did when I first arrived at the Belize Bus Station from the airport, offering comprehensive and helpful information to help you arrive at your destination smoothly or just taking the time to get to know you and see how you’re liking your time in Belize.

#2 | Everyone speaks English

I don’t think it registered with me before my trip that Belize is part of the British Commonwealth. Until I saw Queen Elizabeth on all their currency, anyway! Belize only gained independence in 1981 (quite recently as Commonwealth countries go), and everyone I encountered there spoke English. Certainly for native English speakers, or those of other nationalities with even rudimentary English skills, this takes out a lot of the stress of visiting a foreign country.

While English is the official language, certainly Spanish is widely spoken, especially close to the Guatemalan border. And there is also a fair amount of Kriol (the local Creole language) and some other languages of the region.

#3 | Transport around Belize is easy

Depending on your comfort level and budget, there are plenty of options for how to get around Belize during your trip:

Renting a car. I like to have a buddy for road trips, so I didn’t opt to rent a car, although many do for their time in Belize. And road signs are all in English.

Buses. Buses are what I took most often, to get between cities and also for shorter day trips to Mayan ruins. The buses in Belize may look familiar, because they are second-hand school buses purchased from the United States! Many of them stay their original yellow color, although some bus companies paint over with other hues.

Between cities it can take a while on the bus (besides the Express), since they’ll stop at countless bus stops and intersections along the way. But especially for local buses, I found it extremely useful as a tourist since each bus has a person dedicated to taking money – and not driving – who can make sure you get off in the right spot for where you want to go. Plus, they’re cheap!

Taxis. Certain spots, like getting from the Belize City Airport to the Bus Station, are just easier in a taxi. Usually there is a fixed fare for these journeys, and even outside of the cities, there was always a local nearby who knew the going rate for a cab ride. Ask locals about the price to expect before you go, and you’ll know you’re paying a fair price.

Ferries/Water Taxis. If you’re visiting Caye Caulker or Ambergris Caye off the coast of Belize City, most people opt for one of the water taxis that run across. There are also various spots along the coast with ferries. From Danriga, I took a bus to Independence (which was leaving much sooner than the Placencia bus), and then got a ferry to Placencia Town at the tip of the peninsula.

Flights. There are a lot of short-hop flights on local carriers like Maya Air and Tropic Air, especially along the coast. It’s definitely more expensive than the bus, but will get you to your destination much faster and with stunning views along the way as the planes fly quite low. I took one flight to get to the airport on my way home, so I didn’t have to leave super-early in the morning or stress about traffic on the road to Belize City.

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Car Transfers. If the thought of inter-city travel on an old school bus without air conditioning gives you pause, don’t worry, that’s not your only option. There are several car transfer companies that offer a more comfortable, air-conditioned, direct ride to your destination. Most hotels and guesthouses can arrange this for you in advance.

#4 | It’s easy to travel on a budget

While there are some costs you can’t avoid, overall travel around Belize is quite inexpensive, even if it’s accurately known as the most expensive country in Central America. That’s only by comparison to some very cheap places to visit.

Especially with taking bus transportation and doing some exploring on your own, you can get around and eat well for not all that much. If you’re willing to forego air conditioning, you can get true budget accommodations, but even my private room in a guesthouse with air conditioning in San Ignacio was only around $50 USD/night.

Plan for the budget you have, but cost should definitely not be a deterrent to visiting!

#5 | You can pay in US dollars pretty much anywhere

If you’re American or arriving from the US, you’ll be pleased to know that you can pay in US dollars throughout Belize. This includes taxis, random small town buses, and street vendors, as well as more established hotels and businesses. I never had my US dollars refused.

Typically when you pay with US currency, you’ll get Belizean dollars (BZD) as change, although sometimes I was offered a mix of USD and BZD. Don’t worry, it’s an easy conversion because the currencies are tied together: $1 US = $2 BZD.

I brought a fair bit of cash, and between that and paying for tours with a credit card when I could, I didn’t need to go to an ATM or formally exchange money the entire trip. Although since credit cards charge a conversion fee, it would have actually been a bit cheaper to pay for everything in cash, which I didn’t realize ahead of time. If you’re comfortable carrying that much, anyway.

TIP! Be sure to check whether prices are in USD or BZD at restaurants and shops since both currencies use the dollar sign ($) and you’ll want to know the actual cost of what you’re getting.

#6 | All sorts of adventures await

One of the main things that drew me to visit Belize was adventure. There are all sorts of active and outdoor activities to enjoy, and many of these are clustered in certain parts of the country, so it’s easy to have a single home base and do day trips in different directions, as I did from San Ignacio.

Adventures include:

exploring and climbing Mayan ruins (went to a few of these)
hiking
caving
swimming in waterfalls (did this twice)
visiting wildlife preserves
some of the best scuba diving and snorkeling in the world (I saw a manatee!)

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#7 | Tours are readily available

If you’re not quite as independent on the road as I am, or want to follow my lead and break up solo travel with a few organized tours, there is availability of tours for just about everything you might want to do. There are also a few outings that for preservation reasons, you can only enter with a tour guide.

I did full-day tours to the ATM cave (tour guide required), a day trip to Tikal in Guatemala, & a visit to a Mayan chocolate farm and factory (pictured above) followed by swimming in a waterfall. When I was staying at the beach, I also did a ½ day snorkeling tour at the last minute.

The only tour I arranged in advance was to visit the chocolate farm and factory, and all my other day trips I was able to arrange the night before. Most tours have a minimum of 2 people, so as a solo traveler, I just found out which tours already had people signed up for the following day. Or you can always pay a premium for a private tour.

#8 | You can relax on one of the countless beaches

On the Caribbean coast, Hopkins and Placencia (where I stayed), are the most popular beach destinations. But a country like Belize is not limited to a single coastline because there are hundreds of cayes!

Cayes are small islands of varying sizes, many with pristine white beaches and incredible snorkeling and diving in the surrounding water. Larger cayes will have accommodations available, so you can stay overnight or in some cases have a private section of beach to enjoy.

#9 | Great food everywhere you go

There some fabulous restaurants scattered throughout Belize. These range from fancy seafood restaurants, ones serving traditional Belizean cuisine, ethnic restaurants (lots of Chinese food), and upscale French and Italian spots.

There is also a strong street food culture. Which means that you can eat well everywhere, even in transit. And the cheapest food you can get, typically from a street food vendor, is often the most delicious.

You can get a sense of how much I enjoyed Belize because although I only recently returned from my trip, I am already strategizing about how to go back for a return visit!

I was a bit too early for the annual Lobster Festivals that take place in a few different coastal towns when lobster season begins each year on June 15^th. And I didn’t make it to the most popular part of Belize – the Cayes (Caulker & Ambergris).

Next time…

Have you been to Belize? What made it an enjoyable experience for you? Any other questions about what it’s like to visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia: The Monticello Wine Trail

July 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

If I asked you to name US wine regions, what would be the first ones that come to mind?

Probably Napa and Sonoma valleys, in northern California. Possibly some other California regions that are up-and-coming for wine making, perhaps Oregon for its Pinot Noir production, Hill Country in Texas, or maybe even the Finger Lakes region of NY.

Far less likely to cross your mind? The wine region of Charlottesville, Virginia. Even though I think that some of the best wines on the east coast of the US are from there, and it’s a relatively easy weekend trip from Washington, DC, Baltimore, and other surrounding cities. Plus, when Food & Wine magazine calls Charlottesville the most underrated wine region in the US, it’s time to take notice!

Honestly, Charlottesville is a more typical destination as a university town and for its nearby presidential estates. The University of Virginia – UVA – is located there, as well as the former home of Thomas Jefferson (the Monticello Estate) and James Monroe’s Highland.

The real draw for me, although I’ve visited the other sights in town, is the wine region in the area

known as the Monticello Wine Trail. The term “trail” is a bit misleading because there are 30 wineries spread all across the region, however there are a lot of similarities in the grapes they grow and the style of wine they produce.

On my previous wine weekend trip to Charlottesville, Virginia in 2007, I had no idea it would be a full decade before I returned. Fast forward ten years, and the wines are even more exciting, with new grape varietals to the region producing some very interesting – and eminently drinkable – bottles of wine.

Wine is definitely more expensive stateside than in a lot of parts of Europe where I’ve done more of my wine tasting lately, like the Piedmont or Valpolicella and Soave regions of Italy. But I’d much rather spend $10-25 a bottle at an American winery where I’ve tasted and know I like the wine than take my chances blindly purchasing a bottle in a wine shop for a similar price.

For this visit, I pulled information from a lot of sources (and my past experience!) to determine which wineries I should visit. And I enjoyed some really great wine along the way.

Here is the run down of my favorite spots:

Best Wineries to Visit

DelFosse Vineyards & Winery

Reservations: Not needed for a Classic Tasting, Private Tastings require advance reservation

Tasting: $10 for the Classic Tasting, $15 per person for a Private Tasting

Varietals: Chardonnay, Pinot Gris, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng dessert wine

Both times I visited, I felt a bit of apprehension when the road turns into a gravel path for the last few minutes of the approach. The bit of extra driving is more than rewarded though, with a secluded spot and a great-value tasting of 10 wines made in the French style. My favorites included the Viognier and both Cabernets, and the delicious wine is enhanced by the relaxed atmosphere and knowledgeable staff. The grounds include picnic spots, and you’re welcome to bring outside food to enjoy.

King Family Vineyards

Reservations: Not needed for a Classic Tasting, Private Tastings require advance reservation, Tours are first-come, first-served at 1pm & 3pm on the weekend

Tasting: $10 for the Classic Tasting, $15 per person for a Private Tasting (with a purchase minimum)

Varietals: Chardonnay, Viognier, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Petit Manseng dessert wine

This location boasted a polo field before the idea for a winery was born. Polo matches continue to this day, but King Family Vineyards has also become known for its quality wine production. The tasting area is inviting, and staff are welcoming and really know both the history of the property and a ton about the wine. I really loved the rosé here – playfully named after the nearby town of Crozet – as well as their white blend.

Stinson Vineyards

Reservations: Not needed for a Regular Tasting, advance reservation required for groups of 7 or more

Tasting: $10 for the Regular Tasting, $12 per person for groups

Varietals: Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet Franc, Meritage blend, Tannat, Petit Manseng dessert wine, Port-style dessert wine

The tasting room is located inside a quaint former garage, and both feels a bit industrial and also connected to nature with the view of the surrounding countryside. Tastings are relaxed with delicious wine options. I especially loved their white wines, including the Petit Manseng dessert wine which was refreshing without being too sweet. There is also a farm store on site, and many food options to sit and stay awhile and enjoy the view.

Just To Eat

Veritas Vineyard & Winery

It’s possible that the wines beyond what was available for tasting were fabulous, but the ones I tasted were not memorable or stood out as particularly good. Come here for the food and view instead!

This winery had my least-favorite sips, but it still made my list as a great spot to eat or hang out for the afternoon. There is ample seating on the grounds, and plenty of food options that you can order on site or you can bring your own picnic lunch. I enjoyed a wonderful cheese plate, made even better since the bread was served warm.

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The tasting room is beautiful, but the tasting itself was rushed and very commercialized. Basically you were herded into a line upon arrival, and then were clumped into random groups to squeeze in as many people as possible at a time up at the tasting counter. And the staff couldn’t even answer basic questions about the wine. The wines themselves were not particularly notable, especially compared to some of the other wonderful sips I enjoyed at other nearby spots.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Have a plan for getting between wineries. Some of these wineries are in close proximity, and others will involve a 20-30 minute drive in between. If you’re driving, know who in your group will be the designated driver. There are also several organized tours available in the area if you prefer to be chauffeured between places.

Share a wine tasting. If you’re like me, and are going in with the mindset of trying different wines and finding ones you like to buy for later, there’s no need to go crazy on the wine tasting. I usually find that two people can easily split a single tasting. Also, most wine tastings are for a fee, unlike other wine regions that offer complimentary tastings or waive the tasting fee if you purchase wine. Which makes sharing an economical option, too. It’s also good to share a tasting if you have a designated driver that will be doing some tasting of wines.

Have a plan for getting wine home. I’ve always driven on trips to Charlottesville, and the trunk of a car is a handy place for transporting wine. Pretty much all the wineries also have shipping options within the US if you’re coming from outside the area. Definitely something to think about before you go!

If you want a tour or private tasting, reserve in advance. Not only are there lots of families from the region who take advantage of the vast picnic areas at most wineries, but there are also lots of groups of all kinds, from bachelorette parties to alumni groups. So if you are planning to take a tour or would like a private tasting, reserve this with the winery in advance so you’re not disappointed.

Have you visited wineries in Charlottesville? What were your favorite places? Let me know if there are any great wineries I missed!

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Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

May 16, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Berlin’s East Side Gallery is the longest open-air art gallery in the world, where artists have left their mark on an extended section of the original Berlin Wall. Artist got a wide rectangular section of wall as their canvas, and the resulting art is a combination of humor, political satire, and hope. A fitting mix of emotions given the symbolic nature of the wall during the Cold War, and the harsh reality it represented for Berlin’s inhabitants.

I’ve already posted a quite thorough Berlin Cheat Sheet on the blog with my impressions of the city, all the best things to do, restaurants and food to seek out, and thorough tips to make the most of your visit. These images will give you a closer look as to why the city made such an impression on me, and why I left thinking of it as a ‘City of Contradictions.’

The Berlin Wall has been on my mind again lately, as I recently visited a section of the original wall, also adorned with art, in the lobby of a random New York City office building:

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The East Side Gallery of course is the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall. You can get a sense of the length of the East Side Gallery in this shot, although you may have to get pretty close to your screen to see just how far it continues to wrap around alongside the road:

In this photo journey through my visit, I’m including the panels that I found most interesting, many of which have incredible detail. I spent around two hours strolling up and down the panels – you could spend more or less depending on how much time you’re interested in spending with each mural.

And you’ll notice that some of my shots include fencing. Over the years since 1990 when the East Side Gallery first opened, there have been some sections obscured by graffiti, and so after a restoration effort, fences have been put up to protect the art.

Here’s what I saw…

German flag with overlay from the Israeli flag:

Portrayal of the Allied Checkpoint Charlie, which connected the two sides of Berlin for those authorized to cross:

Interesting panel, since there is a three-dimensional component with the plant box. Reminiscent of a church for me:

“Save Our Earth” and the incredibly detailed, colorful panel on the left:

Amnesty International dove of peace and chain of captivity:

I’ll let the bold yellow and red here speak for itself:

The panel that was most impactful for me, so I’m including 2 different perspectives. It portrays a “Curriculum Vitae” of the people killed while trying to escape, during each of the years the wall stood from 1961-1989:

Each rose represents one person:

I spent quite a bit of time in front of this final panel, what do you make of it?

Which panel made the biggest impression on you? Have you been to the East Side Gallery? Any memorable panels I missed?

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Berlin Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

August 9, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Impressions

Berlin is very different from other German cities I’ve visited, and at some moments does not feel like Germany at all. It has this young, industrial bustle, is teeming with hipsters, and embraces ethnic food and the latest trends. However, there are still moments when you feel like you could be in any European city and not Berlin specifically: walking along the tree-lined Kurfürstendamm for high-end shopping, or strolling the Alexanderplatz hunting for bargains with the masses at TK Maxx (yes, just like TJ Maxx).

Modern Berlin is a city of contradictions. It is both distinct and anonymous. I’ve heard it compared to Austin, Texas, which is a city in Texas that has such a different flavor than other Texas cities, and sometimes doesn’t feel like Texas. A pretty apt comparison, in fact.

Berlin is both rule-following and rebellious. I was there when Germany beat Slovakia in the Round of 16 of the 2016 Euro Cup. The Germans went wild celebrating in their cars, driving up the main streets with German flags streaming out of the car windows and honking their horns for hours. But the cars also proceeded in a very orderly manner, taking great care not to block the second lane reserved for buses. And while the bus drivers who monitor tickets by hand and the U-bahn and S-bahn run like clockwork, I saw many Germans ignoring the rules – smoking on train platforms and drinking on board.

Oh, and the history. I thought I knew about Berlin during the Cold War, East and West Germany, the Berlin wall. I didn’t realize how much I didn’t know until visiting Berlin. I think I was most surprised by everything I learned about the Berlin wall. I was not alive when it went up, although I remember watching the wall come down on TV. And I even visited the largest (unchanged) section of the Wall outside of Germany in the late 1990s when it was part of an outdoor display of the Newseum in DC. But somehow I managed to escape that time period without a coherent understanding of what the wall was and how it came into being.

The first “wall” was really just a wall of soldiers that appeared overnight in 1961. People went to bed one night with free passage to family and friends in the other sectors of Berlin, and woke up to a human barrier around East Berlin that was already in the process of being converted into a physical wall.

For me, understanding the suddenness of the shift helped to explain some of the desperation I read and heard about the various escape attempts from East to West Berlin: the twenty-something student who wanted to reunite with his parents, the 80-year old woman who wanted to join her daughter. Both perished in their attempts. Or the East German border guard who jumped the wall in the early days when it was just a bunch of barbed wire, captured in this iconic photograph. Although Conrad Schumann escaped to freedom, his defection haunted him throughout his life and he committed suicide nearly a decade after the fall of the Berlin wall.

Things to Do

As you can tell, the history of Berlin really captivated me. See below for my top picks for what to do during your visit (in order of preferene within each section):

Around Town

Walking Tour

There is so much to see and history to take in, so I found it hugely helpful to have a walking tour to orient me and explain the major sites on my first afternoon. I did a tour with Original Berlin Walks that I thought was fabulous (and did not require an advance reservation, which was a plus), although there are other highly-rated walking tours available.

TIP! The walking tours that have Western meeting points typically are listed 30-minutes sooner than the Easten meeting point because you spend the first half-hour traveling east together. Unless you’re nervous, about finding the spot for yourself, arrange your itinerary for the day to arrive at the eastern meeting point at the appointed time.

TIP! While there is a small discount for booking online in advance, there is an even bigger discount if you have the Berlin Welcome Card, and pay in person on the day.

Holocaust memorial

This is an outdoor memorial, which I recommend experiencing first-hand, and there is also a museum on site that does a good job of conveying information in a way that makes you think, even if you’ve been to other Holocaust memorials or museums.

Brandenburg gate

Icon of the city, and even more special to be able to visit it today since it was inaccessible while the Berlin Wall stood. You are likely to come across this during your visit, even if you do not actively seek it out.

Jüdisches Museum

Different from the museum at the Holocaust memorial, because it gives a window into Jewish life in Germany both before and after. Famous architect Daniel Libeskind designed some of the newer sections, and the temporary art exhibit upstairs was also very good when I visited.

Haus am Checkpoint Charlie

This was probably one of the least user-friendly museums I’ve ever visited, because the written materials are written in long-form in four languages and is very hard to follow and glean key details. Despite the super-long blurbs, it is very cool to see the memorabilia that has been accummulated in the private collection, especially of methods people used to escape from East Berlin, from the more well-known car compartments to the more obscure surfboards and hot air balloon.

Checkpoint Charlie

It is cool to see the place where this border crossing once stood, although the current checkpoint is a reproduction. Named “Charlie” because the checkpoints were named consecutively using the phonetic alphabet (Alpha, Bravo, Charlie). This third American checkpoint was the most visible while the Wall still stood.

Neue Synagoge

Although this was once the main synagogue in Berlin, it has not been fully reconstructed. It is still stunning from the outside (it is modeled after the Alhambra in Granada, Spain), and has a history of the Berlin Jewish community, including fun tidbits like the “well-known violin concert” given there in 1930 by none other than Albert Einstein.

Off the Beaten Path

Berlin Wall Memorial/Gedenkstatte Beliner Mauer

While there isn’t much of the wall itself left at this site, there is a moving set of poles marking the location of what by the end of its time was a much more elaborate barricade between East and West Berlin. The “Wall” really ended up being two different walls with empty space in between called “the death strip,” and this memorial marks many of the successful and failed attempts for those in East Berlin to escape. This is an open-air exhibit which will take you several hours to walk through and absorb the thorough written, audio, and video descriptions of this section of the wall. Most surprising to me was seeing a photo from when Martin Luther King Jr. visited the Berlin wall in the mid-1960s, even giving a speech on both sides of the wall. There is also a whole exhibit inside the local S-bahn Nordbahnhof stop about what happened to the metro system when the wall was up.

East Side Gallery

This is an open-air exhibit of a very long section of the Berlin Wall that has been thoughtfully decorated by artists from around the world. Worth a trip, and you can visit at any time of day. Check out this Photo Gallery of some of the most interesting sections.

Sachsenhausen

This concentration camp is accessible by train from the city center, although it takes a while to reach. There are tours available either from Berlin or on site, although I found the audio guide quite useful during my visit. An important part of German history that I found very moving to see first-hand.

Amazing views

Reichstag Dome

This iconic building that houses the German Parliament has a glass dome with an inclined ramp that is free to visit for expansive views of Berlin, although it does require advance registration. If you are booking early enough, there is the possibility of registering on-line, and guided tour registration may also be available online if you visit when Parliament is not in session.

TIP! If, like me, you are planning last-minute, you can register in person for the same day or next day in-person from 8am. While there is a small line right at 8am, by 8:20am or so there was no wait (and it can be up to an hour wait or more in the afternoon). Be sure to bring your passport or European ID card to sign up, they let in 100 people per hour.

Fernsehturm (the TV tower)

You can buy an early-bird ticket, or just go on the early side to beat lines (and you’ll still get discounted admission if you have the Berlin Welcome Card). There is an indoor viewing window where you can walk around at your leisure and appreciate a fairly high-altitude view of all corners of the city. Like with the Reichstag Dome in-person ticket purchase, after the first 20-30 minutes of opening, you can get in without waiting.

Berliner Dom

The Berlin cathedral is lovely to visit and in addition to housing some exhibitions and a crypt, there is also the option (which I recommend!) of climbing several hundred stairs to get up to the walkway outside of the dome for 360-degree views of the city and some exhilirating fresh air.

Best Bites

I ate really well in Berlin. Like, really well. And I don’t say that lightly. While I sampled my fair share of ethnic food, my best bites (breakfast aside) were mostly the local specialties:

Best Breakfasts

Chipps

Chipps serves a variety of large portion breakfasts meant for people with appetites (like me), although there is the usual selection of pastries and yogurts for those looking for a more minimal meal. There >is also a vegan option for the bacon and sausage that accompanies some of the dishes, plus nice coffee and fresh juice options.

Father Carpenter Coffee Brewers

I had a wonderful Australian-style breakfast here – a flat white coffee drink with perfectly-seasoned avocado toast, and I got the addition of a poached egg. The pastries looked great as well, and while very centrally located, Father Carpenter’s is in a quaint courtyard with outdoor seating as well as the space indoors.

Best Street Food

Mustafa’s Gemüse Kebap This is *the* place for kebap, a very popular street food in Berlin. I got the “usual” version here, which comes with chicken. The bread is toasted perfectly, and the proportion of ingredients was just perfect down to the spray of juice from a lemon wedge to finish. Each kebap is made to order with care, and you will wait accordingly (1 hour when I went, so go early before usual mealtimes if you can). And be sure to go to the original at Mehringdamm, as the two locals I met in line told me that the other outposts closer to the main tourist areas are not as good.

Hühnerhaus 36

Serving Berlin’s typical fried chicken, I had a perfectly crispy and flavorful 1/2 hen with the spicy garlic sauce, which also comes with a choice of salad/fries/rice/bulgur. There is the street stand and the sit-down place across the street from each other, and they are Halal. This place is off the beaten path, although not terribly far from the East Side Gallery.

Best German food

Zur Letzten Instanz

One of the 10 oldest restaurants in the world (it is rumored that Napoleon ate here once), they have been satisfying hungry customers since 1621! But don’t come only for the history, this place serves up typical German fare done well. I don’t eat pork so I ordered the one fish dish on the menu, which was just phenomenal and came with the best sauerkraut of my life. And it wasn’t very crowded for lunch on a Friday.

Marjellchen

Although reservations are recommended, I didn’t reserve, but was able to eat at the bar. This is another spot with great typical German dishes. To drink, this is a great spot to sample the local specialty: Berliner Weisse beer “mit schuss,” with rot (red – raspberry) or grün (green – woodruff) syrup.

Best overall meal

Restaurant Bieberbau. This was the only restaurant where I made a reservation, since it’s off the beaten path and I didn’t want to arrive and get turned away. They serve high-level cuisine with amazing flavors and textures, but with helpful and friendly service, and incredibly reasonable prices. And it is not pretentious at all – my kind of place. The aperitif special the night I was there was a sparkling riesling with rose syrup and the bread basket came with red wine butter and also curry apple butter, just to give you an idea of the flavor combinations and creativity you’ll experience dining here. And you can get a half glass of wine at exactly half price of a regular one, so I got to have a lot of great sips paired with the various courses. A truly satisfying dining experience.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

I’ve included a few practical tips above next to the relevant attraction. Here are a couple more general tips for Berlin:

Berlin Welcome Card

Berlin is huge! It basically developed as two different cities when the wall was up, and then was reunited as one, so there is huge sprawl. Even with unlimited public transit travel, I walked a huge amount each day. I can’t imagine *not* using public transit very heavily as a tourist.

I bought a 5-day Berlin Welcome Card, and found that it was only slightly more expensive than just getting an unlimited transit pass for the same amount of time. Plus, with the Berlin Welcome Card, I received discounts for: my walking tour, going to the top of the Fernsehturm (TV tower), the Jüdisches museum, the Neue Synagogue, and Haus am Checkpoint Charlie.

TIP! You can buy the Berlin Welcome Card ahead of time online.

TIP! If you don’t buy online, there are points of sale for the Berlin Welcome Card at both major airports. And if you buy at the airport, your initial public transit trip into the city will be included. Plus, the line was much shorter to get the Berlin Welcome Card than just a ticket for the bus.

TIP! Know in advance how many days you’d like the pass (2-6 days) and whether you want it for zones A-B for just the city or A-B-C, which includes the periphery like Potsdam.

Get a phone data plan

While I am often an advocate of sticking to WiFi connections and using phone GPS without data for navigating, I found phone data hugely helpful in Berlin. The city is huge, and if nothing else, active data is a helpful tool to navigate efficiently on public transit from one location to another.

Have you visited Berlin before? What was the highlight for you? And what was the most surprising part of its history did you learn during your visit? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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Foodie Scoop – The Table in Boston

May 11, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

On a recent weekend trip to Boston designed for catching up with friends and loved ones, I wasn’t expecting to have any notable experiences to share on the blog. Until I went to the Gardner Museum, site of the largest unsolved art heist, and loved the vibe of the museum even beyond the noticeably empty picture frames on the wall. And then that night, my foodie revelation – enjoying my best dining experience of the year so far.

In between a night cooking at home with friends and another getting some traditional Boston clam chowder out, I had a night to fill on my recent weekend trip to Boston. I cooked have cooked at my friends’ place where I was staying, even though they were out that night. It would have been quite cozy, and I do love to cook.

But when I’m somewhere other than home, you know me – I like to get out and explore! So despite the freezing temperatures and chilling wind, I ventured outside in search of a meal out. It was a decent stroll, actually, to another corner of Cambridge, to see if I could get in to The Table at Season to Taste.

I had seen The Table on a list of best Boston restaurants for foodies, and was intrigued by it offering a tasting menu, but choices within each course, all of which sounded delicious. And I sure worked up an appetite by the time I arrived.

Of course, I came prepared with a backup plan of several other nearby restaurants in case I couldn’t get in at The Table. But fortunately that was not needed and I had a really stellar dining experience that I’m compelled to share:

How ‘The Table’ Works (& What You Should Do Instead)

The Table is a quite small Cambridge dining establishment, with only twenty seats inside. The main seating is a combination of 16 spots at regular tables and 4 stools at the bar facing the open kitchen.

All of these seats, including the bar stools, are available to reserve and when you do you’ll be asked for your seating preference – Standard or Counter. You’re also required to provide a credit card, and you can only cancel the reservation until 48 hours in advance. By reserving, you’re committing to a 4-course tasting menu (there are 2 options within each course) at a cost of $69 per person.

But who needs commitment like that when you can instead play it by ear?

The website for The Table describes that “there is a menu of light snacks paired with choice wines and craft beers at the standing wine bar.” This is accurate, and you can find both a ‘Drink’ and a ‘Snack’ menu on the site to check out in advance.

TOP TIP! What they don’t tell you is that the ‘standing wine bar’ – really like a waiting nook to the right of the entrance – is far more flexible than they make it sound. You can actually order from the several choices on the ‘Snack Menu’ or order any of the 8 possible courses a la carte from the tasting menu (4 courses x 2 options in each). You can mix and match. And it is glorious.

In foodie heaven, I ended up getting 3 courses in total, one of the “first courses” and both of the “second courses” from the tasting menu the night I was there. And none of the “snacks.” My choices were partially based on my mood and partially based on the one course my server recommended when I asked for guidance – the crab stew (which you’ll read all about below).

The best deal by far is to dine in the waiting nook. Both in terms of choice and price.

I’m not the only foodie who’s figured this out as there was a neighborhood couple who dined there the same night as me, but otherwise the other people who entered had reserved in advance at the tables or at the counter.

The ‘standing wine bar’ only has 2 stools (I managed to snag one), but you can also stand, if you don’t mind. The one couple who came after me opted to stand. FYI, I arrived around 7:30pm on a Saturday night, and was the first person to arrive without a reservation.

And in the end, it was incredibly affordable for the size and quality of the dishes that came out. Each of my First/Second course choices were only $14 each! And you could be happily full on just two, trust me.

I honestly didn’t ask for the a la carte price before ordering, but the meal cost less than I expected it to be, which was a pleasant surprise when I received the bill at the end. Basically, my food and wine came to the total I was expecting just for the food. Amazing.

Now that I’ve talked about the pesky money business, it’s time to focus on the exceptional meal and service I enjoyed. Which, price aside, is what really made this a stand-out restaurant experience for me.

The Staff and Chefs

Despite the main restaurant menu consisting of just a tasting menu, the service is effusive and not stuffy or pretentious at all. I’d characterize it as quite laid back, which seems to be my preferred style of dining these days. From welcoming me as soon as I came in the door to explaining my ordering options in the ‘standing wine bar,’ everything throughout the meal was very comfortable and relaxed.

And while I didn’t try any of the craft beer that was available, I did enjoy a couple of wines by the glass – one white, one red – and had some great sommelier advice along the way. The menu options by the glass were interesting, and the knowledgeable staff gave some spot-on recommendations for pairings with the dishes I ordered.

Although the chefs are focused as they expertly assemble dishes in the open kitchen, they are also aware of the diners and happily chatting away with us, even with me over in the nook! Being close to a kitchen with chefs that were so friendly and interacting with guests definitely enhanced the dining experience for me.

Another thing I noticed when I got settled on my stool in the waiting nook was that the head chef in the kitchen sure looked familiar. A quick search on my phone revealed that yes, it was Carl Dooley from Top Chef, which (I swear!) I didn’t know before going. Like many foodies I know, I’ve been a loyal watcher of this American cooking reality show for years, but I don’t think I’ve ever gone to a restaurant of a Top Chef contestant outside of Washington, DC before. Fortunately, his time on TV didn’t go to his head and he was super friendly, just like the other chefs in the kitchen.

Another nice touch is that different chefs hand deliver each course, and you get to chat with them as they come to where you’re seated with your dish. They never seemed too rushed to get back into the kitchen, helping the meal feel relaxed.

The staff is so, so friendly and both welcoming and accommodating that they made an already great experience especially memorable.

Breaking it Down Course by Course

Since I had ordered a random mix of three courses and was not doing the full tasting menu, I was expecting dining in The Table’s waiting nook to be like any other a la carte meal. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised at the very hospitable and foodie-worthy dining experience.

Soon after ordering, heated triangles of house-made sourdough bread appeared, served with some cultured butter. I had no clue what cultured butter was, so asked and found out that it was butter that had been churned with live bacteria to culture it. It was a flavor I didn’t love on its own but really enjoyed with my different food courses.

Another surprise then headed my way, an amuse bouche. This is a small dish made at the daily whim of the chef to start my meal, and something I wasn’t expecting since I had not committed to the tasting menu like the diners at the tables and formal counter spots. I enjoyed the apple, turnip, and jalapeño soup, although it was not nearly as incredible as the more polished courses that followed.

I had ordered the 1^st course of grilled squid with winter citrus just because I was in the mood for squid. The dish looked different than I had pictured it in my head, but it was incredibly delicious. The thin rings of squid were cooked perfectly, and not in the least bit rubbery or chewy. It was boldly seasoned to the point that I found a bite of the squid on its own to be a bit too salty, but with the other flavors of the citrus, mint, olives, and pistachio, it made for a perfect bite.

When I ordered my two 2^nd courses, I had just assumed from my perspective after living in Italy that the pasta would arrive first, followed by the crab stew. But I didn’t specify anything when I ordered and the kitchen had its own ideas about the proper order. Which meant that the server-recommended crab stew came next.

I’m glad that it did, because I wasn’t approaching being full yet, and was able to appreciate it completely. I don’t say this lightly: this crab dish is one of the best bites I’ve ever had.

This 2^nd course was the crab stew, with peanuts, scallions, house-made kimchi, & a sunny side up egg. Sounds simple enough, and it actually didn’t appeal to me much from reading the menu description.

But when I had asked my server about what dishes from the menu stand out (and I honestly expecting waffling, saying that “everything is good” as many servers do), she hands-down said the crab dish was unlike anything she had ever tasted. So I took her advice to heart and ordered the dish, which was oh-so-good, far beyond any description I could possibly offer. Although I’ll try.

Like my first course, the crab stew was boldly flavored. The house-made kimchi packed a spicy punch, and its sour flavor and texture from the cabbage with the smooth, buttery crab made it very pleasant to eat. Each spoonful was an unapologetic, perfectly balanced umami bite of addictive, comforting flavors. The runny yolk from the sunny side up egg put the richness of the dish way over the top (in a good way!) and the crunch of the scallions and peanuts kept each bite interesting. I would travel back to Boston just to eat this dish again.

Of course, I wasn’t even done with the meal yet. My final course had yet to arrive!

I was starting to get a bit full at this point, and had I not already ordered a third dish, I probably wouldn’t have. And you could definitely be satisfied with just two courses, as I mentioned before. While I was waiting in between courses, I mentally told myself that it would be okay to not finish my last course. And then it was presented.

This other 2^nd course was a house-made garganelli pasta with duck confit, toasted hazelnuts, mushrooms, and spigarello, a leafy green. There was great winter flavor to this dish, between the pasta, the spigarello, the hazelnuts, and the fresh parmesan cheese grated over top.

The duck confit itself was very good, although possibly superfluous – while I enjoyed it, I’m not sure that the dish needed the meat at all. And like all my other dishes that night, there was incredible flavor and textural balance, making every bite supremely enjoyable.

My only critique the whole night – and an incredibly minor one – is that some of the pieces (in all of the dishes) were left quite large, so it was hard to maneuver and balance all of the components of the dish onto my fork at the same time to enjoy them as a single bite. The larger pieces were certainly a plus in some cases, like the lovely chunks of lump crab in the stew, but overall I would have liked to have more mixed bites since the dishes were so good when you got to eat everything together.

A Sweet Ending

The regular 4-course tasting menu includes a dessert course as the final two options, however I had consciously chosen three savory dishes with the idea of forgoing dessert entirely. And honestly, I was pretty full after the first two of my three courses, although you probably couldn’t tell, given how I devoured them all!

Suffice it to say that even two courses would be plenty of food for a lot of people, and dessert for me was definitely not necessary. Of course, while I politely declined dessert when asked, the meal still wasn’t quite over yet.

To my surprise, despite being in the ‘standing wine bar’ nook perched on a stool and an itty bitty ledge to eat off of, I got all of the benefits that typically happen at a restaurant when you order a tasting menu.

Not only did I have an amuse bouche and the bread with house spreads to start my meal, but the meal also ended on an equally generous note.

First (after refusing dessert) I was served a perfectly tart and bitter sorbet of grapefruit and Campari liqueur. Even though I don’t usually love either of those flavors on their own, I couldn’t resist a taste. And let’s be real, by this point I certainly had full trust in anything this restaurant served. The sorbet was a very nice palate cleanser/digestif to end a very rich and luscious meal.

Then another complimentary dessert plate arrived (no, I’m not kidding!) with a small square of brownie and a slice of homemade granola. I probably shouldn’t have, but I ate the entire brownie immediately and then really was at my absolute limit.

In the end, it was quite a lot of dessert for a person who had declined, but I of course enjoyed the sorbet and brownie bite, and filled to the brim, put the granola in my purse for later. Conveniently it was already wrapped in brown paper for exactly this purpose =)

And after all that delicious food, I knew I would need to take a nice long walk, so pushed the idea of a taxi out of my head and had a very blissful walk home, with a smile plastered on my face, and the flavors and memories of this incredible meal still bouncing around.

Final Thoughts

My foodie tastebuds are happy all over again as I relive this meal by writing about it. Certainly, if you’ll be in the Boston area, this would be top of my list to seek out while you’re there. And if you’re not going anytime soon, plan a trip!

And forget reserving seats for the typical tasting menu – you’re likely to pay less than a typical night out if you’re willing to enjoy your meal in the waiting nook that is the ‘standing wine bar.’ Plus, you’ll have complete control over which combination of courses to enjoy if you dine there.

What makes a meal outstanding for you? What’s *your* best dining experience of the year so far? (‘Cause let’s be real, wherever it is, I want to go.) Share away in the ‘Comments’!

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Top 10 Travel Destinations for 2017

January 5, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Happy 2017! As the new year starts (along with some New Year’s resolutions, maybe?) this is also the time of year to start to think about what places to visit in the coming year. For many, vacation days are precious, but with a little creative planning there is a lot of travel destinations that you can squeeze into a single twelve-month period.

Last year for me was the year that I visited the most new countries. Final tally: 11 new countries (6 in Europe, 5 beyond)!!! I don‘t expect that this coming year will be quite as prolific, but I am already planning for the spots I want to hit up. I usually pick where to go these days by finding hidden gems – destinations that may not be at the top of traditional travel lists but have a variety of cultural and outdoor activities to enjoy, along with a unique food culture. And having good wineries to visit doesn’t hurt either =)

This list is not meant to be exhaustive, and it certainly is subjective. It’s also a mix of countries I’ve been and loved, along with other destinations that are timely for 2017 that I haven’t explored yet, but hope to this year. And I contemplated ranking the choices, but in the end decided that since it’s already a top ten list, alphabetical order will do.

Here are the Travel Savvy Gal Top 10 Travel Destinations for 2017:

Australia

Maybe I’m a little biased since I loved the year I lived in Perth, but I really believe that this year will be a great time to visit. The Australian dollar is still around 75 US cents, which means that despite the sometimes high price tags, it’s like having a 25% discount on everything if you’re American (and even more if you’re European). Yes, it is far to travel, but this is a destination that will wow you whatever your interests and is worth the week or two you’ll want to spend after making the trek.

Melbourne has a vibrant food scene and alleyways to wander and explore. Sydney has icons like the Harbour Bridge and Opera House to discover. And Perth has great year-round weather, with both beaches and wine country easily accessible on the city metro system. The list goes on and on and on. And really, Australians are some of the friendliest people you’ll ever meet. They’re JUST. SO. NICE.

Bulgaria

When a friend and I both had a week free in late August last year, I don’t quite remember how we settled on visiting Bulgaria, but I’m so glad we did. Sofia has the feel of any typical Eastern Europe capital city, and it’s worth spending a few days there, but the real gems are further afield. My favorite spot was the old Roman city of Plovdiv, where you can explore the city’s ancient history, or drive a bit out of town to sample the excellent local wines and visit the nearby fort and monastery.

The UNESCO site of the Old Town of Nessebar on the Black Sea is also a great spot for exploring one day and relaxing on the beach the next. And there is an abundance of forts and monasteries, many with breathtaking views, to take in wherever you are.

Cuba

Yes I know, if you wanted to go to Cuba before flights and cruises were widely available to Americans, it’s too late. However, even if you haven’t been yet – and I haven’t either – all is not lost. Cuba is at the outset of a possible shift into a commercialized tourist destination, but it is still worth making it there sooner rather than later.

And as the country slowly shifts to catering to tourists, the earlier you go, the more places that will still be off the beaten path to discover. There is also some concern about how a Trump presidency might impact the recent openness for American tourists. Which again, puts Cuba on this list of top places to visit this year.

Kazakhstan

This is another country I have not made it to yet, however I’ve included it on my list for 2017 because Kazakhstan’s capital city of Astana will be hosting the 2017 International Expo from June 10^th until September 10^th. When the 2015 World Expo was in Milan, I was quite impressed by the Kazakhstan pavilion – and with the hour-long queues outside, I wasn’t the only one. Inside, their interactive displays lived up to the hype. I can’t wait to see what Kazakhstan rolls out when they are the host country this year for EXPO 2017, with the theme of “Future Energy.”

Liechtenstein

If you live in Europe, Liechtenstein is a great spot for a weekend trip. If you’re visiting Europe from further away but will be in the vicinity (Zurich, Innsbruck, & Munich are all from 1-3 hours away by car), I’d definitely add Liechtenstein to your itinerary.

Not only is there excellent hiking in summer and skiing in winter, but there are also several museums to take in and some outstanding breweries and wineries to visit. It’s a great spot for a relaxing couple of days, a few days of intense outdoor adventure, or a little bit of both – take your pick!

Oman

Yes, I *just* came back from my week-long Oman road trip, and yes, it’s already made my list of top places to go in 2017. This really is a stretch of unspoiled Middle East, where history has been preserved in many ways. Omanis also offer incredible hospitality. In other countries, when someone stops you on the street it’s usually to try to sell you something. In Oman, it’s because you look like you might need assistance and Omanis will jump at the opportunity to help.

Like Bulgaria, Oman has a lot of forts, but also a lot of outdoor adventure opportunities, from desert exploring to swimming in a wadi to touring the fjords of the Musandam peninsula by boat. And Muscat is a city of wonder, with stunning sights like the Sultan’s Palace and Grand Mosque. Their tourism motto is: “Beauty has an address.” It’s true.

Spain

Before living in Europe, I kind of clumped all of the countries on the Euro as its currency as being equally affordable, but it doesn’t quite work like that. Spain is incredibly affordable especially compared to many of its Euro-using neighbors, and can really be a budget destination while still eating and drinking well. I haven’t explored the whole country yet, but I have enjoyed my time spent in Seville, Barcelona, Zaragoza, and San Sebastian, plus wine tasting in the Rioja region.

The more off-the-beaten-path you venture, the more value you get for your money, with cheap accommodations available and incredibly affordable and filling tapas and stellar wines if that’s what you’re looking for. There are also plenty of opportunities to splurge, including at one of the highest concentrations of Michelin-starred restaurants in the world in San Sebastian in Basque country on the northern coast.

Sri Lanka

Ever since I spent two weeks in Sri Lanka in December 2015, I have been singing its praises. There is a huge variety of things to see and do on this relatively small island nation: ancient temples, beach, Dutch forts, hiking, safaris, visiting a tea plantation, whale watching . . . the list goes on.

The food is amazing, involving a combination of south Indian and Tamil influences along with other dishes only found on Sri Lanka. The beer is good and the variety of tea is incredible, with many plantations offering tours and excellent tea tastings. It’s a whirlwind adventure, I’d dedicate at least 10 days to exploring, although you can get a taste of the wonder in fewer.

United Kingdom

Since the UK voted in favor of a Brexit – the exit from the European Union – the value of the pound has been steadily falling. Britain has always had a wealth of places to visit, and I enjoy my time in London every time I go, but with the value for your money, 2017 is the time to go for your first time (or again).

A highlight of my last trip there was the town of Bath. Not too far from London, the site of Britain’s only natural hot springs, and boasting a history dating from Roman times to Jane Austen to the present day.

Vietnam

Vietnam was another winter holiday trip, like Sri Lanka, and is another destination I can’t recommend enough to anyone who will listen. The coffee and food are fabulous, and there is so much to do that after a busy two weeks there, I felt like I had only scratched the surface. There is the bustle of cities Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon), while the center of Vietnam boasts the largest cave systems in the world, several of which you can tour.

Ha Long Bay in the north has lovely spots for rock climbing and deep water soloing, kayaking, or staying overnight on a boat. Hoi An on the coast is a foodie mecca and probably the most popular spot in Asia to get clothes custom-made. The south has the Mekong River delta and also some intriguing remnants of the war, like the underground Cu Chi tunnels. And although I didn’t get a chance to go, I hear the beaches in the south are great. I want to go back just writing about it…

What’s top on your list to visit in 2017??

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