How to Make the Most of a Weekend in Barcelona

September 8, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Impressions

Barcelona might have been the first city I visited after moving to Europe when I actively solicited recommendations on Facebook from friends about what to do and where to eat. This was long before Travel Savvy Gal was even a bud of an idea, but even then I took what is still my approach: if I’m going to travel, I like to travel well. To me, this doesn’t mean doing the most expensive or exclusive things necessarily, but instead getting a full and rich experience of a particular place. Ten comments on my post and multiple private messages later, I knew I was wise to inquire. I was inundated with suggestions from well-travelled American friends, friends living around Europe, and even a friend from South Africa. So why is Barcelona such a beloved (and well-visited) city across continents?

Thinking back on my weekend exploring Barcelona, I see sunny skies, strolling along lengthy boulevards, the expanse of the Mediterranean, and the vibrancy of the food. I think it’s something about coastal cities that there is this open possibility that comes with every day. A feeling that makes me smile when I think of Barcelona.

I’m not sure if it was because my one and only visit to Barcelona was in springtime, or because it was my first time visiting Spain, but just entering the city put a lightness in my step. The weather was warm but not hot, and the bustle of people made me feel caught up in the bright colors and vivacity of the city. I had such a wonderful time exploring, and know you will, too!

Things to Do

There is a ton to take in in Barcelona, but you can really have a leisurely weekend and see quite a lot. Or squeeze most things in with a more ambitious schedule or by spending an extra day. Here are my top picks for what to do during your visit:

Around Town

Cathedral

A stunning Gothic cathedral very centrally located, this is one of the spots to definitely explore. Check out the website linked above for the various visiting house – sometimes it’s free to enter, other times there is a donation required.

Old Jewish Quarter & Medieval Synagogue
Not far from the Cathedral, you can explore the old streets and also visit the medieval synagogue, one of the oldest in Europe. It is small and is more like seeing an archaeological excavation than seeing a modern house of worship, so a great window into Barcelona’s past.

Museo Picasso

I really enjoyed this museum, the only one dedicated to Picasso’s works during his lifetime. He first moved to Barcelona as a teenager with his family, and spent later years there as well.

La Rambla

This is a street, which is not your typical tourist recommendation, however this came up with almost everyone who recommended Barcelona sights to me. It is a large sprawling boulevard that connects the Plaça de Catalunya in the center to the waterfront, is a popular spot for strolling, and has many things to see along the way:

(I've never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before) — (I’ve never seen 3 types of dragonfruit before)

La Boqueria market. See the colorful produce on offer in Barcelona, and the market is also a great spot to stop for a drink or a meal (see “Best Bites” section below).

Plaça Reial. This large plaza adorned with palm trees reminds me of many others and does not seem distinct to Barcelona, but has a lively scene or restaurants along its perimeter and is worth a quick peek as you stroll down La Rambla.

Mirador de Colom. Right before you get to the waterfront, there is a tower of Christopher Columbus dominating the center of a roundabout. Snap a few pictures before heading to the water’s edge.

Waterfront. A pedestrian walkway makes the stroll along Barcelona’s waterfront as comforting as any boardwalk you enjoyed strolling growing up.

Off the Beaten Path

Casa Battlo

Gaudi, a Spanish architect who designed many buildings around Barcelona, may be the most famous thing about Barcelona. Casa Battlo is one of the houses he designed, a bit off the beaten path, but not too far from the city center and with a ton of rooms open to the public across many levels, including an audioguide.

La Sagrada Familia

Although still currently unfinished, this Catholic church designed by Gaudi is possibly his most iconic creation in the city. It is a long walk or short metro ride from the center, and is probably the most popular attraction in Barcelona. See the “Amazing Views” section below for more on accessing the view from the top.

TIP! Also off the beaten path are other Gaudi creations, including Casa Milà and Park Güell, the latter also providing an elevated view of the city.

Magic Fountain of Montjuïc

This light and fountain show only runs on Thursday-Saturday nights (Wednesday-Sunday in summer), so if you are spending the weekend in Barcelona it’s a perfect time to check out the fountain choreography and changing lights set to musical medleys.

Amazing views

Towers of La Sagrada Familia

There is a lift that brings you up to the towers of the church for a high vantage point, and is worth organizing in advance as entrance capacity is more restricted than the church itself. More details are linked above.

Parc del Mirador del Poble Sec

This and other nearby gardens in the Poble Sec neighborhood of Barcelona offer wide views of the city and waterfront, and are a refreshing break as the green spaces are frequented more typically by locals than tourists.

Best Bites

Barcelona, like many parts of Spain, is all about the tapas (small plates) and the wine. This approach to eating is perfectly suited to me because I love getting to try lots of different dishes and finding a tasty accompaniment to wash it all down. In Barcelona, I felt like there was a focused approach to each traditional small plate, bringing forth flavor combinations to give you pause, and local wine that pairs so well with the typical cuisine. And I was fortunate enough to travel with a friend who is a kindred spirit when it comes to seeking out delicious meals. The top places I enjoyed during my stay:

Traditional Tapas

Papas bravas, baccala' del dia, y vino — Papas bravas, baccala’ del dia, y vino

El Quim de La Boqueria @ La Boqueria Market

Whether you eat here or not, this market off of the famous La Rambla boulevard is definitely worth a visit. In addition to vendors selling incredibly fresh produce, there are a lot of stands with stools or nearby tables where you can eat a sit-down meal. I squeezed in to the last spot at the bar at El Quim for a tasty Friday lunch, when I was still flying solo.

El Xampanyet

This was one of the places recommended to me by a friend, and became the default choice for Sunday lunch as one of the few places open that day. It was so crowded when we first entered that there was half an instinct to turn right around and find a calmer place, but waiting had its rewards. The service was very friendly and our server made great recommendations, and all of the dishes were well-executed versions of classic tapas. The octopus dish was especially memorable.

Innovative Tapas

La Pepita

I knew in advance that La Pepita does not take reservations (“sin reserva”), but arriving for a late lunch on a Saturday meant being able to be seated immediately. This is not your traditional take on tapas, but the restaurant is true to the principles of putting complementary flavors together on the plate that give you pause to savor each bite. The staff was also very welcoming, making for an excellent overall experience.

Dessert & Drinks

Bubó

It’s been a while now, but this pastry shop won “best chocolate cake in the world” back in 2005, and they are still serving up the special Xabina cake slice, with many layers of texture and flavor. Not far from El Xampanyet (see above) and worth seeking out.

El Born & Gracia neighborhoods

No particular bar stands out to me for after-dinner drinks although I frequented a few, but these two neighborhoods have lively nightlife scenes and are great areas to walk around and then you are free to pop into whatever place strikes your fancy.

On the high end

This was a budget weekend away, so I did not visit any “fancy” restaurants, however I would be remiss to not mention two very world-renowned spots for those who might be interested:

Tickets Bar – If you are not new to the foodie scene, you’ve heard of Ferran Adrià of El Bulli fame. When El Bulli was open, it was considered by many to be the best restaurant in the world, receiving a million reservation requests for just a few thousand dining slots annually for their molecular gastronomy experiments on a plate. The Adrià brothers have Tickets Bar as their latest project, with reservations available online two months in advance.

El Celler de Can Roca – An hour outside of Barcelona, this is a place for the serious foodie. For the past 4 years, it’s claimed the #1 or #2 spot on the list of the World’s 50 Best Restaurants. Reservations open on the first of every month for 11 months in advance, so plan well ahead if you want to dine here. Considered one of the hardest restaurant reservations to get in the world.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Shopping

I am not usually a person who buys a lot of souvenirs or is that into shopping as I travel, but Barcelona has so many wonderful things at great prices, that I would definitely leave extra room in your bag to take your purchases home. I had not planned ahead, so kept my buying modest: I bought a scarf that I wear often, an earring and bracelet set, as well as two Gaudi-decorated espresso glasses with spoons. But if I had more space, there were also great artist shops all around and really interesting and beautiful clothes for great prices. Next time…

Have you visited Barcelona before? What is your favorite part about visiting Spain? Or what you’re most looking forward to on your first trip? Tell me more in the Comments below.

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Travel Superlatives of 2017: To Inspire Your Next Adventure

December 20, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

This year has involved quite a lot of transitions. I started my first full-time job in quite some time (hint: it’s not blogging) and have been slowly figuring out how to balance it with my passion for blogging, travel, and you know – life, the universe, and everything!

This also marks a full year spent back in the US after five years abroad, and it hasn’t always been smooth sailing. I was shocked at how much my post on moving “home” resonated with readers, and continues to resonate with many others experiencing the same challenging transition. It is the post when I felt the most vulnerable clicking that “Publish” button, but such a lesson to me that it is when you really put your authentic self out there that you connect the most with those around you.

And that’s really what my travel superlatives come down to. It’s a collection of moments in far-flung places and spots close to home when I connected with those around me. Sometimes through an experience and sometimes a meal, but all were opportunities for wonder with some excellent company to share it all with. And a bit of adventure.

I hope you enjoy my stories from the road and perhaps even find some travel inspiration for the year ahead. Here are the moments resonating with me from the past year:

Best Nature Adventure: Belize’s ATM Cave

I love caving and adventure, plus the tour to Belize’s ATM Cave (you must be on a tour to enter) was touted by every operator as the top day trip to do from San Ignacio, Belize. The tour itself was absolutely incredible, involving plenty of strolling, swimming, and even a bit of rock climbing to navigate the internal passageways of the cave, including ancient Mayan sites. Wow, just wow.

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Best Tour: Hoover Dam insider “Dam Tour”

The Dam Tour is limited to 20 people every half hour and can only be purchased in person on the day. But it is worth an early start to guarantee a spot on one of the coolest tours I’ve ever been on. Due to security concerns, the insider tour no longer includes a trip to the Power Plant floor, but in its place you get to wander behind the scenes through the inside of the dam itself in areas that were never intended for visitors. There is amazingly cool graffiti and other markings along the way, plus some killer views through vents peering from the inside out!

Best Wine Tasting: DelFosse Vineyards in Charlottesville, VA

I spent the weekend before my birthday on a getaway to Charlottesville, Virginia, a pretty easy drive from the Baltimore/Washington, DC area. I had been a few times before and one of my fondest memories from a weekend I spent in 2007 was of a barrel tasting at a winery up a gravel road a bit outside of town. My return visit to DelFosse Vineyards a decade later was just as memorable, with a personable and delicious journey through their wine collection during the tasting. Both their whites and reds are something special. And yes, there’s still a gravel road for those last few minutes.

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New Go-To Activity: Hiking

I’ve always liked hiking and mixed it in with my city escapes, but this is the first year that I’ve headed into some weekends with an intense desire to get out in nature – at which point I hunted down a hiking buddy or headed out on my own. Maybe it’s my mentality shifting with age, but nothing helps to reset my mind than exploring nature’s beauty with my own two feet.

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Most Memorable Bites: Cambridge, MA & Charlottesville, VA

Let me start by saying that I had some pretty epic meals this year. From cooking my first-ever rack at lamb at home to savoring meals at high-end restaurants serving up 20+ course tasting menus, there have been some very delicious bites (yes, I’m a lucky lady!). But the two most memorable dishes of the year for me are the ones that were unique and flavorful and even months later stand out in my mind.

The first is a a crab and kimchi stew that I enjoyed at The Table at Season to Taste in Cambridge (Boston), Massachusetts. It was such an incredible overall (solo dining) experience that I boldly wrote a whole blog post about it as my best of 2017 all the way back in March and it still rings true all these months later.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on May 11, 2017 at 5:15pm PDT

The other most memorable dish is a crispy scallop appetizer that I enjoyed at Brasserie Saison in Charlottesville, Virginia. It doesn’t sound like all that much but it stands out in my mind both for being something I have never seen before (Crispy scallop outside and smooth-as-silk inside? Amazing!) and also because it was so perfectly executed that every bite was a piece of heaven.

READ MORE: How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

Best Art Exhibit: Kusama’s Infinity Mirrors

I first saw Yayoi Kusama’s art in Stockholm, Sweden and was so in awe of her unique style that I waited in a crazy line to get access to another exhibit of hers this year in Washington, DC. This latest exhibition included multiple ‘infinity rooms’ that were basically giant cubes you could step into with mirrors on all sides and see incredible lights and designs reflected all around you. Check out my blog post for more on the mesmerizing art, plus details on how to get access and when this exhibit may be headed your way – in 2018 it will be in Los Angeles, Toronto, Cleveland, and Atlanta!

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Best Way to Experience My New Home City: On the Water

Part of my adjustment back living stateside has been to express gratitude and focus on all of the benefits of being back after time abroad. Certainly the convenience of American life and access to ethnic food top my list, but being in the city of Baltimore specifically means that I live quite close to the water. I can walk there in around 5 minutes and there’s even a free commuter water taxi stop nearby that will take me to a few different spots across the harbor. And my running route takes me along the water’s edge by Fort McHenry, where the Star Spangled Banner (the American national anthem) was written. Some of my favorite Baltimore water views from the past year:

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Hidden Gem City Escape: Detroit, Michigan

When you think of ‘Motor City’ you’re probably imagining car production or dangerous neighborhoods, but the Detroit of today is so much more. My highlights from a long weekend there included fancy cocktails bars, craft breweries, apple cider mills, some delicious bites, and all sorts of notable art and architecture. Detroit’s revitalization is still a work in progress, but it is already soaring and a spot I’d return to in a heartbeat!

READ MORE: Finding Zero Mile in Detroit

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Hidden Gem Outdoors: Sanibel Island, Florida

My first flight of the year was in January to visit my dad who now lives in Florida. Of course, the primary goal of the trip was to spend some quality time together, so I specifically refrained from doing too much research. Even the lovely stroll we took through an ecological preserve was something I spotted in a brochure after I arrived, not a bucket list item I had planned in advance.

So when we ended up taking a detour to Sanibel Island, I innocently took a stroll only to encounter loads of people with buckets and walking with their eyes glued to the beach. As it turns out, Sanibel Island is considered by many to be the best shelling beach in all of North America! Even though I’m no expert, it was exciting to see so many beautiful shells and even some of the sea creatures that had washed ashore.

Favorite Getaway: Staying with Friends by the Beach

I could pretend I had some posh chalet in the mountains somewhere, but let’s be real, I’m not that fancy. The place that I spent the most weekend getaways in 2017? With friends by Bethany Beach in Delaware. It’s been a perfect haven and relaxed getaway on many a weekend, with great food and wonderful company. Thanks for hosting and for all the great experiences this year!

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Most Random Visit: Berlin Wall in a NYC Office Building

When I visited Berlin, Germany for a long weekend, I of course made it a point to see several sections of what remains of the Berlin Wall, including the open-air East Side Gallery. Across the ocean in New York City, the Berlin Wall was the last thing I expected to see in a random office building, and yet there are several panels that can be visited in the lobby for free!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BS4kdtIg2G1/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Biggest Bucket List Item: Rock Climbing in Red Rock Canyon

Starting with my college years, plenty of friends have talked up Las Vegas as a site for gambling and debauchery. And the ones who really know me well touted the foodie scene there. But the biggest attraction for me has always been the rock climbing I’ve been hearing about for ages in the nearby Red Rock Canyon. My guided trip there was just as wonderful as I had imagined, with incredible scenery and a lot of fun on the rock.

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Best Travel Experience: Hitching a Ride on a Boat in Bermuda

I was excited at having bought the Bermuda-exclusive loquat liqueur at the Goslings store in downtown Hamilton, the Bermudian capital that was half an island away from my cruise ship. The feeling of accomplishment slowly melted into apprehension as I realized that because it was Sunday, the ferry turned out to be on a truncated schedule and the last one had already left back toward the dock where my cruise ship was anchored about 20 minutes before.

I was quite annoyed at this point – Why hadn’t I checked the schedule properly beforehand? Why didn’t I realize it was a sign taking a taxi into Hamilton from the beach was a bad idea when no one else was headed that way? – I probably should have seen the signs ahead of time, given that I’m an experienced traveler. But fortunately we had another day in Bermuda, so I wasn’t exactly in a rush. At least the cruise ship wouldn’t leave without me if I didn’t get back by a certain time.

I started running through possibilities in my head. There seemed to be a local bus station nearby, and many buses had passed through the main street downtown. Surely it would be cheap to take the route to the far side of the island, although the trip might take a while and who knows how long it would be before the next bus. A taxi was an option, but probably a $60 one. So it wouldn’t be a cheap mistake, but at least I’d make it back to the ship for dinner.

One consolation was that I wasn’t alone, there were actually 4 of us from the cruise strip stranded at the now-closed ferry terminal. But as possibly the most assertive one of the bunch, I was tasked with asking around and trying to figure out our best option to get back.

It was at this point that I noticed a boat crew at the far side of the dock that seemed to be cleaning up for the night. There was a decent chance they were locals and could hopefully point us in the right direction, maybe even let us know if buses were still running or if our best bet was to hail a taxi to get back.

I couldn’t tell you exactly what I said in my first thirty seconds of talking, but the guy who seemed to be the head of the crew approached as I was chatting with one of the deck hands and said, “Actually, we have to get this boat back over to the Dockyard for a tour in the morning, do you want a lift back?”

What?!? By opening myself up and asking strangers for help did I really just score all of us a free ride back to our cruise ship?

“As long as you don’t mind loud music and will buy drinks on the way, you can ride back with us.”

Um, YES PLEASE.

The older couple in the group was a bit skeptical if this was some sort of scam, but this was not only super convenient and generous, the crew explained that this was what your typical everyday Bermudian hospitality was all about. Plus, they were headed that way anyway.

Within minutes we had dark-and-stormy’s in hand (the local cocktail) and were cruising through the harbor on a catamaran with music blasting. I would have called it the best private boat tour of my life, but it was just locals helping out some clueless tourists and letting loose at the end of a long work shift.

Along the way, the crew pointed out a few famous Bermudian houses on the water, but mostly we sang and danced together the whole way. We pulled up and docked just a short distance from the cruise ship, as the catamaran was part of an organized tour the next morning. And when we tried to pay for our drinks, they just shrugged and wished us well.

This is how close the catamaran got us to the cruise ship.

What were some of your highlights from the past year? Or your most memorable travel experience? Anything from my round-up that you’ll seek out in the year ahead? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

December 20, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Europe overall is quite festive for the holidays, especially with the prevalence of Christmas markets, each with a different flavor depending on the country you’re in. I’ve already written about how to enjoy Milan for the holidays, covering the concerts and markets and special events that extend from early December into January. But of course, you’ll need plenty of snacks and drinks to keep you going through the hours on your feet in the cold, winter air as you do your holiday shopping.

There is plenty of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food that is part of everyday Milanese cuisine, from polenta to meat stews to risotto. But for me, it’s the hot beverages and seasonal desserts of Milan and its outdoor markets that really nurture the soul at holiday time. Here are the foods and drinks I always seek out to get into the holiday spirit:

Vin Brulé

This is what the Italians call mulled wine, which I always found interesting because while the name sounds French, the French actually refer to it as vin chaud (hot wine). In any case, the best spot to find vin brulé is at one of Milan’s many holiday markets, where the hot wine will have had time to steep in the many spices that give it such a holiday aroma. There is no shortage of stands selling vin brulé, so follow your nose.

Roasted Chestnuts

Growing up in America and listening to songs about “chestnuts roasting on an open fire,” it was one of those lyrics that just sounded good. Fast forward to living in Milan – people really do roast chestnuts, and this is one of the most common street vendors you’ll see at holiday time pretty much everywhere, and especially at any outdoor Christmas market. It is such a smoky, nutty taste of winter, and is a product you can’t usually find at other times of year, so take advantage while you can.

Cioccolata Calda

Hot chocolate in Milan is closer to a solid than a liquid, with actual chocolate melted into a deliciously thick concoction usually “eaten” with a spoon and occasionally sipped. It’s a bit heavier than having a cup of vin brulé, but is a very satisfying way to warm you up and fulfill your craving for something sweet. Cioccolata calda is widely available at holiday markets, and also can be found at nearly every coffee bar. If you don’t see a sign advertising it, ask – they probably have it.

Panettone/Pandoro

Panettone is a Milanese holiday dessert that you only see in December and early January. It’s like a much airier version of a fruitcake, with a soft, wispy, yeasty dough dotted with canditi – candied pieces of fruit. If you’re like me and don’t like the canditi, you can always opt for the Northern Italian cousin pandoro, which is minus the fruit and raisins.

A slice or whole loaf of panettone is widely available at any of the holiday markets, but ask any Milanese and they’ll tell you that the best version you’ll ever eat comes from Pasticcieria Marchesi. (It was the delectable Marchesi version that was happily devoured at the last holiday party I hosted, pictured above.) When you buy it whole, it comes with a packet of powdered sugar and a plastic bag so you can shake it yourself and coat the panettone or pandoro so it’s ready for serving.

Gelato

Hear me out on this one. Gelato is made with seasonal ingredients, so you can get some excellent ones with holiday flavor profiles. I find after a minute or two inside a well-heated gelateria I am all ready to savor some winter concoctions, cold as they may be. Pictured here is my favorite winter flavor: zucca (or squash/pumpkin) from Milan’s Ciacco gelateria.

What foods get you into the holiday state of mind? Are there any other holiday treats you’ve enjoyed in Milan that I should add to my list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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How to Order and Eat a Typical Singapore Breakfast

November 8, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Whether you think breakfast is the important meal of the day (or not), it is certainly my favorite. I’d just as soon have breakfast for dinner, or craft an elaborate weekend brunch that is my only meal before dinner rolls around. When I travel, eating breakfast like the locals is one of the ways I immerse myself in the culture of a place.

In general Singaporeans tend to stick to savory breakfasts like other nearby Asian countries, and you’ll see people slurping noodle soups (like pho in Vietnam), eating congee (in the Chinese style), or picking up rice dumplings steamed in banana leaves (like Thailand), and everything in between. But there is only one “Singaporean” breakfast that I came across – basically a delicious variation on the all-familiar eggs, toast, and coffee. Thanks to a bit of jet lag I wasn’t hungry my first few mornings, but once my appetite arrived, I could not get enough of Singaporean breakfast and only hope I’ll be able to somewhat replicate this at home someday.

Here are the essentials you need to know:

1. Coffee (or Tea), aka Kopi (or Teh)

Singaporean coffee lacks the bitterness you may be accustomed to. Why, you ask? Because the beans are roasted in butter! And what was hugely surprising for me is that the brewing method is the same as one I just discovered this past summer for the first time, the Costa Rican chorreador. It’s basically a sock-shaped bit of cloth suspended from a metal ring that can rest on a pitcher. The grounds are placed inside, and then boiling water is poured over top for brewing. The result is a robust coffee flavor that is strong in small doses – in fact, some of the breakfast spots only serve one size of coffee.

As with anywhere, there is also a lot of coffee customization that you can get with each cup. Not only hot vs. iced, but the traditional method for serving, if you ask for just “kopi” you’ll get coffee with condensed milk, as you would in Vietnam. The main other options are “kopi-C” with Carnation milk or “kopi-O,” black coffee. For any of the above you can add the word kosong to the end of your order to request no sugar. For more of the nuances of ordering coffee in Singapore, check out this Serious Eats post.

With coffee this good, I didn’t have tea out once. Although it is definitely available if that is your preferred breakfast beverage, and can be ordered in the same variations you would do for coffee.

2. Kaya toast

I probably don’t need to explain what toast is, but kaya is such an excellent accompaniment. A coconut-based spread, it is typically served on toast with a pat of butter, giving some flavor and sweetness without being overwhelming. Kaya is made with coconut milk, eggs, sugar, and flavored with pandan, a local plant used as an aromatic in many types of Asian cooking. Of course, the flavor is all in the balance of ingredients and texture.

My favorite kaya, hands-down, was the fresh version served at Killiney Kopitiam. If you’re looking to take a jar of kaya home from here, purchase it at the end of your visit as their kaya has no preservatives and will expire within 3-4 weeks. (And if you’re going to Australia after like me, since it contains eggs you probably can’t even bring it with you, sorry.)

3. Soft-boiled eggs There’s actually no need to specify the cook on the eggs that come with a Singaporean breakfast, as they only come one way. Most places I went gave you the eggs still in the shell, and it was up to you to crack them into the bowl. Others gave you a bowl that already had the two “half-boiled” eggs nestled inside.

TIP! I didn’t always do the best job of cracking my eggs and sometimes broke a yolk. The way I saw locals doing it seemed to work well: cracking the wide middle of the egg against the table and cracking it into the bowl (the way you would if the egg was still raw). The typical condiments to make the eggs extra-savory to contrast with the sweet kaya toast (and possibly sweet coffee as well) were ground pepper to sprinkle on top & soy sauce to pour into the bowl. Locals tended to slurp the eggs out of the bowl, while I preferred to break the yolks and enjoy it one small spoonful at a time or with the toast dipped inside.

Where to Find Singaporean Breakfast I sampled Singaporean breakfast at what are probably the top 3 local chains. You’ll be able to find one of these nearby wherever you stay in Singapore:

Killiney Kopitiam Kopitiam means coffee house, and while the coffee was delicious here, I was blown away by the kaya toast at their original location on Killiney Road. And if you’re looking for one last breakfast, there is a Killiney branch in the upstairs 24-hour food court at the airport, although there’s usually a bit of a wait as they still grill the toast fresh for each customer.

Toast Box I waited in line with a lot of young professionals, as it seemed relatively easy to order takeaway breakfast. The one I visited was so busy I even had one of those light-up buzzers to alert me when my toast was ready.

Ya Kun Kaya Toast This was the one spot where my eggs were already in a bowl when they were served, so the least assembly was required. Plus, it was a bit cheaper than Toast Box and included quite a large portion of toast.

What breakfast have you enjoyed so much that you then tried to replicate it at home? Singaporean breakfast will definitely be my next experiment!

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Finding Zero Mile in Detroit

October 20, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

“You’re going to Detroit? Why? Isn’t in dangerous there?”

It’s a question I received again and again leading up to my long weekend in Detroit, Michigan, to spend time with friends from Milan, Italy (random, I know). Not only was I looking forward to catching up with them, but also to exploring an American city I had never visited for the first time.

And then, the inevitable follow-up question in the conversation would come: “Isn’t that where the movie 8 Mile was filmed?”

It seems that most Americans’ (and foreigners’) ideas of Detroit come from the movie 8 Mile, based in large part on rapper Eminem’s upbringing and struggles growing up in the rough neighborhoods around the road ‘8 Mile’ in Detroit, a de facto dividing line between black and white, and poor and rich communities still.

Given that the Detroit reference point for most people was a road counting out 8 miles from the center of town – and that there are lots of other “mile” roads counting out from the city before and after it – I expected the central point, or zero mile marker, to be obvious.

But let’s back up a little bit.

Kilometer Zeros Around the World

As most of the world is on the metric system, it is far more typical to see a ‘kilometer zero’ than a ‘zero mile’ marker, but there are plenty of both to be found all over (thanks, British Empire).

For anyone who’s visited the famous Cathedral Notre-Dame in Paris, France, you may have come across this marker perched in the cobblestones out front like I did:

It was a bit of a ritual for me to seek out the point from which all roads in France are measured, especially in such a lovely locale in Paris’s center.

Although I haven’t been to Madrid, Spain yet (I know, I know), there is also a quite prominent zero kilometer marker there as well:

Like in France, it marks the highway kilometer counts and is also the central point for the numbered roads within the city of Madrid.

While most of the ‘kilometer zero’ markers are still used and prominent today within the specific city or country where they’re located, few I expected to be as iconic and visible as the ‘zero mile’ in a city known for roads like Six Mile, Seven Mile, Eight Mile, Nine Mile, and so on.

The Quest

Surely, I thought that finding the ‘zero mile’ marker of Detroit to be a quick stop on my first day in town. I was mistaken.

I don’t know how this is possible, but no one knew where it was!

Not my friend who was born and raised in Detroit.
Not my friend who moved there recently and lives right downtown.
Not the guard at the nearby courthouse in the Penobscot Building.
Not even park patrol at Campus Martius, the supposed site itself, while standing with a dozen steps of the actual spot.

I finally located the ‘Zero Mile’ in Detroit on my third try, my final day in town, only realizing then that I had actually been standing right next to it my first day exploring.

Detroit’s Zero Mile Marker

So how long had that thing been around anyway, that nobody seems to know about it?

It took quite a bit of searching on the internet across my multiple searches to even find enough information to locate the spot in the end. And was hard to find even when I knew what to look for. Although Detroit has numbered mile roads that led me to seek a ‘Zero Mile,’ the central spot where counting began is actually known primarily as the ‘Point of Origin.’

Historically, Detroit’s current road system was laid out after an 1805 fire that decimated the city despite causing no fatalities. A local judge created a wheel-and-spoke system modeled after Washington DC’s street layout, designating where the mile count would start.

A 6-foot tall square granite pillar was erected to literally mark the spot where the surveying began, although over time it became buried and hidden, only visible at ground level by the accompanying marker, the ‘Point of Origin.’ The Detroit ‘Point of Origin’ marker used to be easier to find, looking like this:

The Campus Martius park had an overhaul as part of downtown renovations and revitalization, with the park being rededicated in 2004, and according to my research was the location of Detroit’s ‘Point of Origin,’

Despite having seen a picture online of what I now know to be the old ‘Zero Mile’ marker, and knowing the narrow park area contained it, I saw nothing even approaching this photo in my strolling.

So what does it look like today?

As you can see, the marker is quite unobtrusive, with the year after the fire only vaguely visible. You’re only likely to find it if you’re specifically seeking it out!

To get there, go to Campus Martius, a prominent oval-shaped park in central Detroit. Go to the side of the fountain facing the restaurant, and there it is, in the ground, right by the entrance:

I’m not sure why Detroit hasn’t kept the old lettering that boldly announced the presence of the ‘zero mile’ marker, Detroit’s ‘Point of Origin.’ But if you’d like, you too can visit the spot where it all began!

Have you visited any ‘zero mile’ or ‘kilometer zero’ markers either in your hometown or in your travels? Or managed to find Detroit’s ‘Point of Origin’ like I did? Tell me all about it in the Comments, I’d love to visit more!

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7 Reasons to Visit Israel during Chanukah

October 17, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

I hadn’t planned to go to Israel during Chanukah two years ago, it just sort of happened. I knew that I was targeting the first weekend in December for a short trip somewhere, since it was a holiday weekend in Milan. After asking around a bit, I couldn’t find a single friend who was available to travel – most people already had plans.

Then, on a whim, I checked on flight prices to Israel. I have some family there, and since it’s only a 4-hour direct flight from Milan to Tel Aviv, they had been asking me when I’d visit ever since I moved to Europe.

It seemed like the next option to try, just to see. Then up pops EasyJet, one of the European discount carriers, with a fare of €68. Round trip. For direct flights in both directions.

Obviously I took this as a sign, and I booked my flights immediately. Only after that did I realize that my visit would coincide with the Jewish holiday of Chanukah. I was busy with university coursework during Chanukah the year I lived in Israel, so experiencing the fun of Chanukah there as a tourist for the first time was a welcome surprise.

Here’s why Israel is a great destination to visit during Chanukah:

Lights

Chanukah is known as the ‘Festival of Lights’ and just as you might expect, the whole country is decorated in lights during the 8-day celebration. It is a beautiful time of year for a visit, with everywhere from small towns to big cities lit up at night, like you might expect to see in other places for Christmas. You may also get the chance to progressively light Chanukah candles during the eight nights, a special tradition to share even if you aren’t Jewish.

Potato Pancakes

I promise you, I ate lots of latkes during my Chanukah in Israel. They are traditional potato pancakes that are cooked in oil to commemorate the miracle of the holiday, when a small amount of oil lasted unexpectedly for eight nights.

In Israel, I devoured home-cooked latkes at several friends’ and family’s houses, grabbed a few when out for other meals at regular restaurants serving it as a menu special, and snagged a few more when I went to Chanukah parties around Tel Aviv.

What didn’t I do? Photograph any of the ones I ate during my trip! So here’s a shot of latke-making in the US with my family from last year to give you an idea of what to expect:

Doughnuts

Doughnuts as far as the eye can see is the view that will greet you walking into any bakery during the holiday of Chanukah, and this seemed to be the most-consumed Chanukah food. Doughnuts are known in Hebrew as sufganiyot, and you’ll hear that word quite a lot during a holiday visit. Like latkes, they are a traditional festive food because they are fried in oil, commemorating the Chanukah miracle.

Practically, sufganiyot for Chanukah are an excuse for bakeries to take their sweets to the next level, with all sorts of crazy flavor combinations you won’t see at other times of the year. From elaborate decorations to injectable “shots” of doughnut filling, it is a foodie dream to explore all of the different doughnut varieties available. And the good news is, you have 8 nights to do it!

TIP! Jewish holidays go by the lunar calendar, so during the nights of Chanukah you’ll find doughnuts overflowing out of bakeries across the country. On Day 8 of Chanukah, following the eighth night, it’s back to the regular bakery offerings – so get your fix of specialty doughnuts before then!

Other Winter Specialties

In addition to the two traditional Chanukah foods you’ll find in abundance – latkes and sufganiyot – there are also some other winter culinary specialties that if you visit for Chanukah, you’ll get to enjoy just by being there in the right season for it.

Top of that list for me is the Krem Bo, a dessert that comes individually wrapped, and is only available during the winter time. It consists of a circular graham cookie base, a marshmallow-like meringue mixture piled high on top, with a thin coating of chocolate around everything but the bottom.

Since it’s covered in chocolate, it would melt in Israel’s hot climate at other times of year, so is only available during winter. Most convenience stores and markets will have it in one or more flavors – if you don’t see it, just ask!

Another cold weather favorite is the aromatic, creamy Arabic beverage known as sachlav, which will be served at outdoor stands piping hot just like hot chocolate or mulled wine in other parts of the world. Head to the nearest market – or just keep your eyes open around town – and you’ll definitely find a vendor to sample this specialty.

No Special Religious Restrictions

A lot of Jewish holidays are of great religious importance, and observant Jews will treat it like the Sabbath, not using their phones or computers or even turning on lights around the house. The benefit of Chanukah is that it is a relatively minor holiday not subject to the same restrictions.

So other than the typically one Sabbath that will fall over the 8 days of Chanukah, you can cook latkes with your religious friends and family with abandon, which I especially savored this trip since I have extended family members who are observant who I otherwise would not have been able to spend as much time cooking and celebrating with.

TIP! Even if you won’t be hanging out with any religious Jews when you go, there won’t be any special closures of public buses or businesses for Chanukah to worry about and track along with your itinerary.

Festivities

Israelis are always looking for a sibah l’msibah, a reason to party! While Israelis might be traveling at the end of December to spend New Year’s somewhere special, people are typically around through the rest of the month, and celebrate accordingly.

I spent most of my Chanukah in the coastal city of Tel Aviv. It has a bustling nightlife during a regular week, which goes into overdrive for the Chanukah celebrations. There were multiple parties happening across the city on any given night, from low-key gatherings to late-night clubbing on the beach. Get a special taste of festivities across the country by coming during Chanukah!

Great Travel Deals

Late in the year, there is a jump in prices in late November with increased American tourism around when Thanksgiving falls and again between Christmas and New Year’s Day as many people everywhere have work holidays during that time. The typical timing of Chanukah in early-mid December positions it between those other holidays, and I was delighted to find great deals for travel during that period.

Not only did I get possibly my best flight deal ever traveling to Tel Aviv from Milan for cheaper than a domestic train ticket, but other tourist amenities were also cheaper after I arrived. Spending Friday night in Jerusalem was a no-brainer after finding availability at a decent hotel in the center of town for just $60/night, so my budget went just that extra bit farther and I was able to see more throughout the entire trip.

What holiday celebrations have you enjoyed on the road? Have you ever visited Israel during Chanukah? Anything else you want to know before you go? Let me know in the Comments!

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READ MORE ABOUT ISRAEL TRAVEL:
Insider Bucket List: 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

Top Tips for Not Losing Things When You Travel (& How to Handle It When You Do)

September 19, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

Lost or misplaced items can be incredibly frustrating, especially if it was something expensive or with sentimental value. But this is an experience I honestly haven’t been very familiar with, despite my frequent travels. Until this year.

I still can’t pinpoint what exactly has changed. Is it that I’m getting older? Is my mind just overloaded with the stress and changes of moving back to the US after 5 years abroad? Or maybe I’ve always lost things, and it’s just that I’ve lost more precious things this year so I noticed it more?

Who knows, and honestly the reason is not nearly as important as the result – this year, I’ve definitely been losing things far more often than I’d like.

Things that were expensive to replace. Things that I picked up in past travels and had a special place in my heart. And things that were just inconvenient to not have anymore.

The good news is that an ounce of prevention goes a long way. And fortunately – for my sanity and my wallet – I manage to hold on to my possessions successfully most of the time. Here’s how.

Tips for Not Losing Things When You Travel

Certainly the easiest course of action is not losing things in the first place. While that is never 100% guaranteed, here are some things you can do to greatly minimize the number of things you will misplace or lose while you’re on the road:

Pack brightly colored objects.

I can’t tell you how many times I’ve lost black or navy umbrellas. I’ll be sitting down at a restaurant and leave it on the seat next to me, and never spot it when I leave as it blends into my surroundings.

My bright pink umbrella? I’ve had it for years! Even the few times I’ve walked away without it, inevitably a server or friend will see it and pass it back to me. Choose bright or unusual colors when you can, and you’ll be much more likely to hold onto important objects on the road.

Have a designated spot for the items you always travel with.

Some people make lists. I travel enough that I just know which items I keep where. For my well-traveled wheeled carry-on bag, I know that my deodorant, toiletries bag, and hairbrush always gets packed in the small outside pocket. My cell phone charger is always in my purse.

However you need to remember it (there’s probably an app for that), set up locations that you’ll always use for all of the items you’ll need on a trip. It’s much easier to see if something is missing or forgotten if you have one place it will always be in your luggage.

Have secure places to store sensitive items.

Of course, for things like your passport or driver’s license or credit card, you don’t want to have those items easily accessible to possibly be snatched or fall out of your bag. Be sure to have an extra zippered compartment to seal with your valuables inside.

And for longer journeys, consider hidden compartments in your main luggage for some emergency cash or to store your second credit card or bank card as a backup just in case the unexpected happens.

Put things back where you got them from.

Having those set places to put certain objects only works if you consistently put things back where you got them. Every. Single. Time. It may seem tedious, but this is the only way it works.

Exploring a new city or country can make you more on edge than normal – that’s part of the excitement! – which means that is especially important to follow the system you set up. Even if it means stopping for an extra minute before getting a start on your day or taking extra care when packing your bag.

Routine, routine, routine.

Most of your time traveling will not be in the moment of packing or unpacking at home or at your hotel or accommodation. It will be you in the airport or train station, boarding a bus, or on foot exploring. This is how you’ll make the most of your time traveling, but also consists of hundreds of little opportunities to possibly leave something behind.

I usually have both a cardigan and a scarf with me when I’m traveling, in case the weather cools down or I enter a museum with the air conditioning on full blast. This means that these two items are laid over the top of my purse, which means that every now and again, and each time I leave a place, I reach over and confirm that I still have both.

Of course, the one scarf I did lose recently (a beautiful one I had purchased in Barcelona traveling with a friend), was when I decided that in Belize that I didn’t need to keep it out anymore, and put it into my backpack and then wore it again without checking that I still had it.

Check thoroughly every time you leave somewhere.

There are a few places where you’re most likely to leave a treasured item behind: your accommodation, transportation, or at a restaurant or concert/performance. Out and about, I’m most likely to leave a sweater or umbrella or shopping bag behind. Or my phone charger or something in the bathroom wherever I’m staying. Knowing which items you frequently forget can help with your checking, including having a list of those final things to confirm you’ve got.

When I’m carrying multiple items, I’ll do something that I recently discovered that oddly my mother and I both do – count how many items I’ve carrying, and then check for that number of items. If I know I’m carrying 3 things and I only count 2, I know I’ve missed something.

The real bottom line, though – whether you’re a counter, or list-maker, or simply a thorough searcher – find a checking method that works for you and USE IT consistently!

Leave an obvious reminder somewhere you’ll definitely notice it.

It may sound silly, but I’ve been known to leave something on the floor exactly in front of a hotel door to make sure I can’t leave without grabbing it. Or hold my wallet in my hand until I put my credit card back inside after paying the bill.

While those suggestions may seem over the top, there’s no better way than something extremely prominent to get your attention and make sure you don’t leave a beloved item behind!

How to Handle It When You Do Lose Something

Of course, even with the best preventive methods, it’s still possible to lose something. In some cases, the item might be expendable, but of course the incidents that stick out most in my mind (and probably in yours, too!) are those where it was something critical like an ID or bank card or some object or item of clothing with sentimental value.

A few things I’ve lost recently have really thrown my world upside down, since I’m not accustomed to losing things. In my effort to retrace my steps and find the missing items, I have picked up a few tips on how to best do this, and which methods were most effective.

While some of these suggestions may seem obvious, it’s definitely worth mentioning them all as I’ve (foolishly) overlooked them at one time or another. And shouldn’t have.

Act quick.

Especially if you lose something while in transit, you may first realize the loss upon your arrival. By which point you might be exhausted or jet lagged or both. The inclination in the moment will definitely be to delay reporting an item as missing, but this is never the right choice. The quicker you act, the more likely you’ll be able to locate whatever you’ve lost.

Go in person. Otherwise call.

Again, this seems so simple, but you’d be amazed at how much a difference it makes to search for your item in person. It’s much easier for someone to blow you off on the phone, or only look for your missing item half-heartedly. When there is a distraught person right in front of them, there will be a more thorough search.

When I lost my work ID a few months ago and was fairly certain I had left it at the gym. I called and they said the looked for it but to no avail. When I arrived in person the next morning to ask about it, they located my ID in under a minute.

Depending on where you lose something, you might also run into an automated phone line where it is difficult to get connected with an actual person. So make that extra effort if you really want to recover the item you’ve lost.

Officially report valuables as lost.

For any important document like a passport, credit card, or bank card, be sure to contact the bank or company that issued your card or the relevant consulate to make an official report IMMEDIATELY. As bad as it is to lose something, it is even worse to have to deal with unauthorized bank withdrawals, surprise charges on your credit card, or identity theft.

TIP! Keep a hard copy list of important phone numbers, like your bank, credit card company, and local consulate or government office, so you can contact them if needed. If you have access to WiFi, you can always call on Skype or dial the collect number.

TIP! Some companies allow you to place a hold on your card instead of canceling it, so you can reactivate it and continue using it throughout your travels if it’s later recovered.

Continue checking every possible spot.

You’ll probably replay your step-by-step movements and might even become convinced that you know exactly where you lost something. Don’t trust your memory! Especially after replaying events over and over in your mind, you may be rewriting history. Continue to check everywhere.

It’s hard to check with lots of places and you may start to feel silly asking again and again, but push through and go through all the motions for your best shot at recovering what was lost. Decide how much you want to avoid sounding like a careless person by inquiring in multiple places versus how badly you’d like your item back.

When I lost that beloved scarf I had bought in Barcelona, Spain, it was on my way back to the US from Belize. I was unsure if it had been left behind at the airport in Belize, the Houston airport where I connected, the airport restaurant where I ate dinner, or in my Lyft ride home.

Although I I filed a lost item report with the airline online, there was no one to call or way to upload a photo, and I never personally checked with any of the other possible locations. In retrospect I should have also called each of those locations to speak to someone personally and leave no stone unturned in my search.

Four months later, and my scarf has not been recovered (and probably never will be).

De Halve Maan brewery tour — Happier times wearing my scarf in Brugges, Belgium

Trust me, if you’ve never lost something important, it can feel devastating in the moment. And if you’re like me and don’t typically lose things, it can be unnerving as well.

Of course, credit cards that need to be canceled or a lost passport can be difficult and possibly expensive to resolve. But even the sentimental items with low monetary value can be quite upsetting to lose as well.

Think more deliberately about how you safeguard your valuables and keep track of all of your belongings on the road. And keep these top tips in mind in case you do lose something, so you can take all the right actions as quickly as possible.

How do you keep your belongings safe on the road? Or secure when you’re out and about where you live? Any tips that I missed?

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How to Spend a Weekend in Charlottesville, Virginia

September 13, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Charlottesville may be a college town, but it is much more than a destination for the University of Virginia.

There are several US presidential estates in the area, most famously Thomas Jefferson’s Monticello Estate, but not only. Charlottesville is nestled in some of the greenest areas of Virginia, offering many opportunities for hiking and outdoor exploration. And the reason I keep coming back again and again? All of the delicious food and wine all nestled into a small, beautiful area.

It is definitely useful to have a car for a weekend in Charlottesville, because many of the sights you’ll want to see will be out of town. Also, if you’re like me and planning to do a bunch of wine tasting (and purchasing), it is handy to have the trunk of a car to transport it all. And of course, road tripping gives you the ultimate flexibility of how to spend your day.

Read on for all my top recommendations on ‘Things to Do’ and ‘Best Bites & Sips’ for when you visit.

Things To Do

Monticello

Former presidential estate of Thomas Jefferson, this is probably the most well-known landmark in the area and also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Tours are required, but you can get a ticket to do this at your own pace, or one that focuses on a specific aspect of the estate, like the lives of slaves on the plantation or Jefferson’s gardening interest and research. In the years since my last trip there, Monticello tourism has exploded, especially in summertime. Definitely try to time your visit for spring or fall, and plan to get an early start to beat the crowds.

TIP! You can get tickets online in advance at a discount, and this will save you waiting in line when you arrive. These are available until midnight the day before your visit.

TIP! There are quite a few quite easy walking trails across the property, so leave additional time if you’d like to explore more on foot beyond the estate and its buildings. A trail map is here.

Highland

Although James Monroe’s Highland Estate was (deliberately) close to Monticello, it attracts far fewer visitors. Certainly it is a smaller estate, but it also limited since the original house burned down at one point. The up side for visitors to the area is that even at the peak of summer travel when other spots are quite busy, you can still stroll in and enjoy the relaxing and quite informative tour of the grounds. A lot is still being discovered on the property, so even if you’ve visited before, it’s worth another look on your next Charlottesville trip.

TIP! Highland is so close to Monticello that it is quite easy to visit both together in a single morning or afternoon.

Explore Nature

https://www.instagram.com/p/BX0rKqIlNOk/

There are a ton of nearby green spaces to explore, most famously Shenandoah National Park and its scenic Skyline Drive. There are also a lot of nearby hikes that you can research through the national park website. There are also trails on the Monticello Estate, see more in the above TIP!

Historic Downtown Mall

This pedestrian area is the social center of Charlottesville and has a great variety of shops, galleries, and restaurants to enjoy over the course of an afternoon or evening (see ‘Best Bites & Sips’ below). Envisioned as an ‘urban park’ there are a ton of outdoor events scheduled here, especially in summer. Plus, there is an ongoing schedule of concerts and festivals at the adjacent Sprint Pavilion.

University of Virginia (UVA) Campus

Even if you’re not a prospective student or the family of one, you might want to explore the campus of the University of Virginia. It was founded by Thomas Jefferson in the early 1800s and is the only college campus in America that is also a UNESCO World Heritage site. Explore the campus on your own, or join UVA University Guide Service for one of the historical tours that take place most days at 10am, 11am, and 2pm. There are also tours about the ‘History of Women’ and ‘History of African Americans’ at the University by request.

Alcohol Alley

Nearby Route 151 is not the only place to find great wineries, breweries, and cideries in the Charlottesville area, but it sure has a lot of them – hence how it got nicknamed by locals. Certainly even if you do no research and have no plan for tasting the local libations, you can explore along this road and follow the excellent signage to pop into a few random spots. Silverback Distillery below was an impulse stop along this stretch of road, and there is lots more to explore.

Monticello Wine Trail

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQmk07grgO/

Honestly, the wineries (and the delicious food – see below) are the main reason I keep recommending Charlottesville as a great weekend getaway. You visit one or two of the 30+ local wineries over the course of the weekend or can set an ambitious schedule – like I *might* have done – hitting up 4-5 wineries in a day. It’s definitely possible to do that without feeling rushed, but of course it all depends on how early you start 😉

TIP! Most local wineries are open from 10 or 11am until 5 or 6pm.

My top 2 picks are DelFosse Vineyards & Winery and King Family Vineyards, but for more on the best local wineries – including which ones have the best lunch options and picnic grounds – head to my post all about Charlottesville Wineries.

Silverback Distillery

This was an impulse stop on a day of hitting up multiple wineries and a great find. Although the Distillery is only a few years old, it offers rye and honey rye, plus boasts several award winning alcohols including a very uniquely aromatic gin that I just loved. They also craft some pretty creative cocktails on the weekend, and I might have been just a little mesmerized by them setting a chunk of bark on fire to infuse their smoky Old Fashioned.

Best Bites & Sips

I have not had a bad meal in Charlottesville. There is a definite foodie culture in this university town and many outstanding options to choose from, from low-key dishes done well to high-end experimental cuisine. I certainly have not sampled them all (yet!) but I have done quite a bit of research into the spots where I did land on my trips, and have only included the spots of my most outstanding meals here.

A lot of the best spots are clustered in the downtown pedestrian area that extends for many blocks, and I’d definitely recommend staying walking distance from this part of town. There are several coffee and breakfast places to hit up in the morning, and dozens of exceptional restaurants to explore each evening.

Breakfast

Bluegrass Grill & Bakery

This place has a bit of something for everyone, kind of like a diner with more flavor combinations for each dish. And they might be just a wee bit obsessed with bacon, based on all of the signs and puns scattered around. No reservations, so be prepared for a wait, especially if you’re in a larger party.

TIP! It’s usually easier to snag a seat at one of the bar stools, which lets you leapfrog the list if you see a spot open up. I was seated in about 2 minutes on a crowded Sunday this way, and got the added entertainment of being able to see into the kitchen.

TIP! There are lots of vegetarian and vegan options here, in all sorts of delectable combinations.

Bodo’s Bagels

First off, let me say that I am a native New Yorker. Saturday memories of my childhood are filled with the aroma of steaming bagels piled high in a paper bag that my dad would go out and get fresh early in the morning. Any time I’ve lived outside of the New York City metro area, I usually transport bagels by the dozen to freeze and defrost one at a time for eating, because I’ve found that frozen and reheated NY bagels are still usually better than what I can find locally.

Bodo’s serves up a very respectable and delicious bagel, and it’s definitely worth seeking out on your visit, especially if you don’t have access to great bagels back at home. You’ll find each location packed with locals when you go!

Dinner

Brasserie Saison

It’s French cuisine with a twist, and easily accessible right on the downtown pedestrian mall. While I wish that the steak frites had been more traditional, their daily specials that you see were out of this world and there was a comprehensive wine and beer (and cocktail) list to accompany all these delicious bites. An outstanding spot – the only thing missing is to have some bread at the table to sop up all their amazing sauces!

TIP! The Brasserie is the only place in this section of the list that also serves lunch, if you’re looking for an upscale midday meal.

C&O Restaurant

This restaurant, named after the old Chesapeake & Ohio (C&O) train station across the street, may also be a local classic from many years ago, but you’ll get a delightfully modern and local take on food when you dine here. It is a bit upscale, although if you are visiting from a major US city, you may just see the prices as what you’d find at a neighborhood spot back home. The food is so delicious and beautifully presented in a great atmosphere with excellent service, that you’ll blissfully enjoy your time dining here. Added bonus? It’s right off the downtown pedestrian mall.

Ivy Inn

First of all, this is the one spot that is a bit far from the central pedestrian area I keep talking about, close to the UVA campus. But trust me, it’s worth the trek. The décor is a bit old school, but the innovative takes on dishes and flavor combinations are divine and every bite here was one to savor with just the right balance of textures as well. Plus, everything was beautifully presented, and they added some extra special touches for my birthday as you can see in the photos.

Zocalo

Zocalo is a Latin-inspired restaurant on the downtown pedestrian mall that was relatively new to the scene when I first visited a decade ago, and it is still just as good as it ever was. Their flavors are bold, execution flawless, and it is just really delicious food. Now a Charlottesville mainstay, it is a great spot for exploring all that the local food scene has to offer.

To Drink

Commonwealth Restaurant and Skybar

I can’t speak to their food although as you can tell from the name it is also a proper restaurant. I can vouch for their great beer selection and solid cocktails, though. My favorite part was sitting outside at the Skybar doing some people-watching, since it overlooks the central pedestrian area below.

TIP! Seating in this upstairs section is first-come, first-served.

Some Final Thoughts

Admittedly, my first forays into Charlottesville were to watch college lacrosse games. The University of Virginia (UVA) usually has a solid team, and sometimes I even did day trips from Washington, DC to see them play my alma mater.

The reason I’ve returned to Charlottesville time and again is not just the variety of things to do and great places to eat, but that there is such a high quality and friendliness everywhere you go.

This really is a superlative spot to spend a few days, and after recent events, Charlottesville is definitely in need of some tourist love. Get to it!

Have you been to Charlottesville? Are there any places that didn’t make my list but should have? Share away in the ‘Comments’ – I’ll definitely be back!

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What It’s Like to Attend an NFL Game in London

October 25, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

The American National Football League (NFL) has been playing games in London for nearly a decade. As a huge football fan, I have been tracking which teams and dates have been selected since moving to Italy in the fall of 2013, and was very excited a year ago when the New York Giants – my home team – was selected to play one of the games this season.

The NFL games in London are not like international competitions or exhibitions, when one country’s national team plays another. Both of the teams involved are American, playing on British soil an ocean away. When I purchased my ticket for Sunday’s game, I really did not know what to expect.

Who would attend? Would there be a lot of American expats living in Europe, like me? Americans who flew over for the weekend to go to the game? A lot of British people? Would there be other Giants fans there?

I didn’t have a clue about the answers to any of my questions ahead of time, other than some intel from an American friend living in London that people would wear any NFL jersey they owned, regardless of whether that particular team was playing. Having brunch the morning of the game in central London I passed two people, each wearing the jersey of a different NFL team. I wondered, might they also be attending the game?

So, what was it like? On my way to Twickenham Stadium on London’s outskirts for the game, I took in the full experience, both for the things that were so familiar to me from other American sporting events (NFL games included) and those that were just a bit different.

Catching the Reading train line from Waterloo Station to Twickenham was the first time I saw fellow NFL fans en masse. There were a lot of other fans in NY Giants jerseys, so I was able to find the correct train platform easily just by following the crowd. I even ended up sitting in a section of the train that had other New Yorkers, although they had flown in just for the weekend. I was lucky to have found a seat, as all of the standing areas became packed with people as the train got closer and closer to Twickenham.

Upon leaving the train, the rainbow of different NFL team jerseys became apparent as most of the train’s occupants streamed onto the platform and formed a giant mass of people carried forward toward the station’s exits. There was basically one main road that led to the stadium, and as I walked with the pace of the crowd, the sight was a familiar one.

First, the NFL team jerseys. I haven’t bought new NY Giants attire in a while, so I was actually wearing the jersey of the previous player at #27, Brandon Jacobs – and I wasn’t the only one. While the New York jerseys I saw were mostly those of current popular Giants players (Eli Manning, Odell Beckham Jr. & Victor Cruz), there were actually quite a few older team jerseys being worn: those of Michael Strahan, Jeremy Shockey, Tiki Barber, & Lawrence Taylor to name a few.

Also, many of the houses and restaurants that lined the way to the stadium had food stands set up next to the sidewalk, with the smell of grilled meat and onions wafting up and tempting many of the people to pause for a snack and a beer. Options even extended into various ethnic options, from African to Asian to Latin American. Basically any street food you could imagine.

The official area surrounding the stadium was quite familiar as well, with more food stands, even some with Krispy Kreme donuts. And one of the beers on tap at the stadium was Budweiser, which I’m guessing is not standard fare at Twickenham for rugby games (although I’m honestly not sure).

When I arrived at my seat, I noticed quite a few Giants jerseys, and thought there might be a sizeable representation of Americans. I was wrong. While I did encounter plenty of Americans, the crowd was overwhelmingly British, which became apparent right before the game. For the national anthem, first Nicole Scherzinger sang the American one, with everyone standing at polite attention. Then, as the first few notes of the British national anthem started, an overwhelming number of people in the crowd starting belting out “God Save the Queen.” Yup, very British crowd.

And most of that British crowd was cheering for the Los Angeles Rams. As soon as the Rams players started taking the field, all of the free LA Rams flags that had been distributed came out and blanketed the stadium with the flapping noise of fierce flag-waving echoing throughout. Not only were the Rams the “home team” for this game, but they were actually slated for a while to play in London over three consecutive years. This was starting in 2012 when they were still the St. Louis Rams. Although the team backed out after their first year, some locals definitely adopted the Rams as their own.

There were plenty of New York Giants fans, too. Nowhere near as loud as the British booing at points, but as the Giants tied up the game and took the lead, decently loud chants of “LET’S GO GI- ANTS” clap, clap, clap-clap-clap would start and make it through a few cycles before dying out. Basically, you could hear the Giants fans when the Rams fans were relatively quiet, but it was still nice to know the others were there =)

The British fans are still learning the NFL rules. American football is different enough from the familiar similar local sports in the UK, like rugby and soccer, that there still is some confusion about the rules. The local commentators went out of their way to accentuate their booming voices for each Rams first down and play celebratory stadium music, even more so than you would expect at an NFL game in the States. And the video monitors had a lot of text explaining some of the game basics, like time outs.

And the game was great! (and not *just* because my team won) There were a lot of possession changes and dramatic plays, so this matchup actually turned out to be a great one for spurring interest in a mostly foreign crowd. While the Rams had some quick scoring and led 10-0 for a while, the Giants managed to tie it up before halftime. The 3^rd quarter was scoreless, and then after a second NY Giants touchdown and some key interceptions, they held a 17-10 lead until the end.

The undisputed ‘play of the game’ was the first-half interception by Landon Collins of the NY Giants, that resulted in a huge run for a touchdown. He seemed to magically dodge Rams players attempting to tackle him as he jumped and spun, traversing the field, and doing what seemed like a magical leap at the very end to cross the threshold into the endzone. The elaborate footwork by defender Collins rivaled any offensive player that day, and was incredibly memorable. Check out the video here.

Is London getting an NFL team? For now, I don’t think so. The NFL has been progressively negotiating both for stadium access. NFL games in London have been played previously at Wembley Stadium, and the Giants game I attended was the first of several that will be played at Twickenham. From the British people in attendance who I chatted with, games have high attendance because of the novelty, so far not more than 3 games a season. It is unclear both with the time difference to the US and the British interest level whether a full season for a single team could be sustained.

TIPS! for Attending an NFL Game in London

From Twickenham Stadium, walk to the Whitton train station to head back toward central London. It is equally close to the stadium, but before the Twickenham stop on the Reading line so I was able to get a seat easily.
Beer cups are reusable and involve a £1 deposit, but if you’re like me, you just want the cups as souvenirs. I discovered that at least at Twickenham, different levels of the stadium use cups with different designs. If you’d like to collect some different ones, either spread out your beer purchasing, or spot someone with a cup you’d like at the line at the beer vendor at the end of the game for people who want their deposit back – you’ll either be able to trade cups or buy them out.
Want to avoid long lines for refreshments or at the bathroom? The British still don’t know American football rules super-well – see above – so the pause for the “2-minute warning” (toward the end of the 2^nd or 4^th quarter) is a good time to go. I would start making my way to the entryway to the inside area with bathrooms when it seemed like it would be one more play before the pause, around 2:10 or so, and you’ll be back before the game starts up again.

And moving forward for the NFL International Series? Well, there is still 1 more NFL game to be played in London this season, this upcoming Sunday also at Twickenham Stadium between the Cincinnati Bengals & Washington Redskins. And another first for the International Series comes this November, with the 1^st game played outside of London – a Monday Night Football match-up between the Oakland Raiders & Houston Texans, which will take place in Mexico City!

Since the NFL is trying to build interest and fans outside of the US for American football, although there are travelling costs involved, tickets to the game itself can be more affordable, plus you get a weekend away. Click to find out about the latest games on the NFL International schedule.

Would you fly to another country to see an American football game? Anything else about attending an NFL game in London that you’re still curious about? Leave a message in the Comments, I’ll reply personally to each one.

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3 Places Worth Visiting within a 2-hour drive of Oktoberfest in Munich

September 22, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Oktoberfest in Munich is a blast and has so many surprises in store, but after a few days of drinking beer and carousing, you’re probably ready for a change of scenery. Munich’s downtown area is great to explore, but that can easily be done in a morning or two before heading to the Oktoberfest tents. If you’re looking to get out into Bavaria, see some lovely landscapes, or hunt down particular tourist attractions, there are a number of great options nearby.

Each of the 3 places I’ve listed could be done as a day trip, or part of a longer road trip in the region – it depends on how much time you have on vacation and what piques your interest. If you are planning to do some type of road trip in conjunction with an Oktoberfest visit, be sure to check out my tips for road tripping in Europe.

And here are some spots nearby to Munich to check out:

Stuttgart, Germany

I actually visited Stuttgart in the summer, but it would be a great city to check out in the autumn as well. It is one of Germany’s largest cities and has a lot of history represented around town, and also the traditional Swabian food, which is a bit different than the food traditions of Munich.

What to Do:

Here I am coming down from my ride on a continuously-moving elevator

Take a Walking Tour (I can highly recommend Stuttgart Steps for this). You’ll get a thorough overview of the history and traditions of the region, and get to check out some of the hidden treasures around town.
Wander the Old Town. There is a lot to see, just pick a direction and wander! If you do a walking tour, you may have some spots you’d like to return to for a closer look.
Cheesy kasespatzle, not all that different from macaroni and cheese
Eat Swabian food. This involves hearty mountain food and lots of spätzle. Many menus in town indicate which dishes on offer are Swabian classics.
Check out the Mercedes-Benz & Porsche museums. I actually haven’t visited either of these world-famous car museums, but both are popular attractions on the outskirts of Stuttgart.
I thought this was a Mercedes office building, but no, just the central train station. Mercedes (and Porsche) own this town!
Stroll the city parks. Stuttgart has a lot of green space, and you’ll see many locals relaxing and socializing in these areas – and you should, too.
Visit a Winery (or several). I only went to one, Weinmanufaktur Untertunkheim, which had a huge variety of tasty white and red varietals. I was able to arrive to their city cellar without an appointment, and taste several wines guided in English by one of the staff people on hand. Depending on how much time you have, there are others in the area.
Check out Stuttgart’s Oktoberfest (“Beer Festival”), which is now the 2^nd-largest one after Munich. If you’re visiting Stuttgart during Munich’s Oktoberfest, it will also be Oktoberfest in Stuttgart. More details are on the official website here.

Innsbruck, Austria

Some locations in Austria, like Innsbruck, are actually closer to Munich than other German cities. Innsbruck has a very different flavor, and is a great spot to do some exploring and enjoy different food and beer traditions. Although I was there in winter when it’s a popular ski destination, there is a lot to see around town and ways to enjoy the outdoors in autumn.

What to Do:

Wander the Old Town. It was an option for Stuttgart above, and this is a great activity for Innsbruck as well. There is a cobblestone pedestrian area that you can wander, and a lot of the distinctive buildings and palaces are along the way.
Explore Churches and Palaces. There are quite a few of these around Innsbruck, many of which you’re likely to see as you walk through the Old Town. Take the time to check out at least a few, to get a feel for Austrian history and appreciate some beautiful sculptures.
Take a funicular to a panoramic lookout. There are many cable cars and many lookout spots at different stops up the mountains surrounding Innsbruck. Not only are the views stunning, but the Zaha Hadid-designed Hungerburg station – accessible from the city center – is a destination of its own.
Hike. Fall weather is great for hiking, and a more physically active way to take in the views and appreciate the landscape. If you’re getting restless after many days sitting around drinking beer at Oktoberfest, Innsbruck is an ideal jumping off point for day hikes. There are even some less strenuous options, where you can ascend in a cable car and do a relatively flat loop – like the Zirbenweg trail described here.
Drink craft beer. There is quite a beer tradition in Austria as well, and walking around you’ll see plenty of signs for either bars focused on craft beers or restaurants with a vast beer selection. Sample some local brews to get some different flavors after your Oktoberfest experience.

Hohenschwangau, Germany (Bavarian castles)

While you may have heard of Stuttgart or Innsbruck, you’re likely to have never heard of Hohenschwangau. So what makes this particular spot in Bavaria such a draw? The two famous castles that are on neighboring hilltops include one that was the model for the iconic Disney castle. This is the one place of the three that I visited in conjunction with my trip to Munich’s Oktoberfest. You’ll likely find other Oktoberfest visitors making the same trip, but it’s not terribly crowded here on a weekday.

What to Do:

It was a little foggy and rainy. You're *supposed* to be able to see the model for the Disney castle behind me. — It was a little foggy and rainy. You’re *supposed* to be able to see the model for the Disney castle behind me.

Visit the Neuchwanstein Castle. This is probably the most popular one to tour, as people try to get shots with the castle that very obviously is the inspiration for the Disney castle. There are paths around the castle and onto a nearby bridge. Hopefully you’ll encounter better weather than I did on the very foggy afternoon spent there.
Visit the Schloss Hohenschwangau. In very close proximity to Neuchwanstein, you can also visit the Hohenschwangau Castle, which is the older of the two and the childhood royal home of Bavarian King Ludwig II, who built Neuchwanstein.
Enjoy the great outdoors. In addition to the walk up the hills to the castle if you opt out of the paid bus, like Innsbruck there is a lot of hiking possible in this area. If you stay overnight, you’ll have enough time to take advantage of activities besides the castle visits that will fill most of your first day here.

TIP! The castles have timed tickets for entry, which can be reserved for both castles in advance here or purchased the same day on site, although if you wait until the day of, your preferred visit time may not be available.

Have you done other day trips from Munich? What other visit do you most want to combine with a trip to Munich’s Oktoberfest?

Or do you still have Oktoberfest questions? Ask away in the Comments.

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