Florence, city of art and vibrancy and signature red rooftops, is likely to make it onto most Italy travel itineraries, so you’ll need all the best information on where to stay in Florence.
It was the seat of the Italian Renaissance and boasts incredible art, both inside its many notable museums and homes and also greeting you as you stroll through Florence’s many piazzas, or open squares. Whether you’re exploring the cobblestone backstreets or strolling along the River Arno, there seems to be no end to the treasures you’ll encounter walking around town.
Since you’ll be out exploring on foot a lot throughout the day, it’s more important than it is in most destinations to have a good place not too far away to rest your head at night.
Whether your priority is proximity to the train station for when you arrive, being easy strolling distance to some great restaurants, or being somewhere with a more neighborhood feel, this list has something for you.
Thanks to three years of living in Milan (and lots of visitors in that time that wanted me to show them Florence), I have a fair bit of experience with the city. Plus, let’s be real, I could never turn down the opportunity to go because one of the most amazing things about Florence is THE FOOD. I mean look at how thick that steak is!
I’ve probably visited the city at least a dozen times – and almost never stayed in the same place twice! My accommodation each visit depended on who I was traveling with, their budget, and how many of us were in the group. Plus, which places were available on any given set of dates.
There are lots of lists out there with accommodation suggestions, but this list is a bit different because . . . I have personally stayed everywhere on this list!
I am lucky in that I have positive things to say about most of the places, although I did have one hotel I probably wouldn’t stay again that I’ve included at the end of the post.
Happy trip planning!
Overall Information and Tips about Staying in Florence
In the next section I’ve organized my accommodation recommendations by category, and they cover quite a range. Each property is a little different, and which one will be the best fit for you depends on what you’re looking for.
I’ve included some rough rates as a general guideline, but the exact price you’ll be able to get also depends. It can vary with the time of year of your visit, the days of the week, and which type of rooms happen to be available.
So be sure to click each link to check on prices during the dates of your stay! Even if one of my recommendations appears to be out of your price range, you might be pleasantly surprised when you do. Hotels and guesthouses often run specials with cheaper rates periodically, and will typically be more affordable in low season or during the week.
TIP! If you are visiting in summertime (June to September) I recommend that you stay somewhere with air conditioning, as it can get quite hot. Many places in Italy don’t have A/C, so definitely check!
TIP! Be sure to look closely at all listings before you book, as they may not mirror the typical availability of amenities that you are used to back home. Like whether a room is non-smoking or has free WiFi or there is breakfast included – or any requirement, really.
Not to worry, all of the listings below include some key landmarks around Florence and the walking distance to each, and options that fit all the questions I’ve included above. Decide which destinations are a priority for *YOU* to be close to where you’re staying and also realistically how much walking you’re willing to do in a single day – it adds up quickly!
Price: as little as $100/€80 per night or less for 2 people
Why I Liked It:
I’ve stayed at 2 different AirBNB‘s in Florence. One was a 2-bedroom apartment close to the train station for 4 guests and the other was further afield in a neighborhood east of the historical center for 2 guests. Both hosts were very hospitable and the properties were great value, especially when it was a larger apartment with the cost split four ways. It’s especially helpful because nearly all AirBNB properties will have a kitchen available so you can feel more at home and try your hand at cooking local ingredients or stick to a tight budget by not eating out.
Location: 5-minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station, 2-minute walk to the Mercato Centrale (central market), 7-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)
Price: $100/€85 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
Although the décor is a bit dated, the rooms are comfortable and this hotel is all about location, location, location. It’s only a short walk from most places, and probably quite close to everywhere you want to go. Great value for money.
Location: 10-minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella train station, 2-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)
Price: $150/€120 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
The name says it all – these rooms are incredibly close to the Duomo (Cathedral) in Florence, although surprisingly quiet despite the proximity. The rooms are bright and comfortable, and there was a great breakfast included at a nearby cafe on Piazza Duomo.
Location: Close to the river and many great restaurants, 15-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)
Price: $200/€160 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
Lots of hotels around Florence have arrangements with garages, but honestly, I’ve never had much luck since they are often hard to find. Between one-way streets, poor signage, weak GPS signals in between buildings, and street closures for markets and events, parking a car in Florence is often a time-consuming (and sometimes expensive) adventure when you can’t find your intended garage. So having their own (FREE!) parking lot out back was a huge draw for my first visit to Hotel Principe and one of the main reasons this is the only hotel on the list that I’ve stayed at more than once.
Even beyond the parking, the hotel is upscale but not too pricey, and includes a wonderful breakfast. Plus the location is great – right by the river and a short stroll to some of my favorite restaurants in Florence.
Location: 2-minute walk to the Santa Maria Novella train station and many great restaurants, 5-minute walk to the Duomo (Cathedral)
Price: $300/€250 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
This is a very nice hotel. It’s also an easy stroll from the main train station in Florence, even if you have a lot of luggage. The hotel is set on a beautiful, grassy piazza near a lovely church and is close to some of my favorite Florence dinner spots. It’s also quite close to the main attractions in Florence, so it is easy to pop back during the day to rest for a bit or take a nap if you’d like.
While the location was great, the couple that ran this hotel was a bit awkward interacting with guests. They were weird about leaving keys behind and what time of day our group would be coming and going. And although the location was central and close to the water, it was hard to find places open early for breakfast nearby, which was not included with the room. With so many great accommodation options in Florence, I wouldn’t stay here again unless in a pinch.
Well there you have it, that’s my rundown from my many nights staying over in the beautiful Tuscan city of Florence. There are a wealth of options no matter your budget or location preference, so pick the spot that is right for you and you’ll be able to focus on enjoying your time in Florence.
Happy travels!
Lana
Do you have any questions about any of the accommodations? Have you stayed anywhere on this list? I’d love to hear about your experiences staying in Florence, let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!
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It’s a new year with endless travel possibilities. So which travel destinations should you seek out?
Don’t get overwhelmed with the unlimited options, instead think about your travel goals for the year or even just what type of place you’d like to get to. And then pick one place for your first trip.
Maybe you want a warm beach escape during winter? Or a place that is very different culturally from where you live? Or somewhere off-the-beaten-path that won’t be overrun with tourists? Or finally make it to the top item on your Bucket List?
Regardless of your desires, this list has a little bit of something for everyone, with destinations all over the world. It’s a mix of places I’ve been and loved and spots with timely reasons to go in 2018, in alphabetical order.
Read on, get inspired, and then book that trip!
Belize
Within my first day in Belize back in May, I knew it would be my new 2017 destination that I’d be screaming from the rooftops about. Not only is a beautiful country with a wide range of adventures, historical ruins, and opportunities to relax, it is just so easy to travel there.
As a former British colony and still part of the Commonwealth, English is widely spoken. For those traveling from America, the US Dollar is accepted everywhere and interchangeable with the local Belizean dollar at a simple 1:2 exchange rate. And everyone is so friendly and helpful anytime you need to get somewhere. Which leaves you free to focus on enjoying all of the amazing things Belize has to offer!
Yes, 2017 was a rough year for some parts of the Caribbean that were devastated by hurricanes. Which makes 2018 a great year to support islands undergoing hurricane recovery as well as checking out some other islands that escaped hurricane season mostly unscathed (over 70% of them!). There is a Caribbean Travel Update website that has the latest information, island by island. Check it out HERE.
And even on some of the islands most affected by last season’s hurricanes, cruise ports were some of the first parts to re-open for tourism. A Caribbean cruise will let you island hop and ships have already adjusted their itineraries to ensure that you are getting the best vacation experience in the region.
A destination where I’ve lived, but have also been again several times recently, continues to astound me with how much it changes and evolves with each visit. As a clueless 18-year old, while I traveled nearly every weekend, most of my meals on the road were with friends and family, or from the bakery section of a supermarket. On my last few trips I’ve savored one of the best (and most memorable) tasting menus of my life, inhaled the latest trendy street food, & sipped cocktails at a speakeasy. Not to mention some pretty fabulous wine tastings.
There are so many sites with religious and historical significance in Israel that . . . I can’t even come up with a good way to end this sentence to do the country justice, history is simply everywhere – retracing Jesus’s footsteps on the Via Dolorosa of Jerusalem’s Old City and hiking through coastal Roman ruins, palpably feeling the millenia of history that have touched this land. You’ll just have to come explore yourself!
I’m not the first person to wax philosophical about all the reasons to visit small town Italy, but after 3 years of living in Milan, I can attest to how worthwhile a visit can be. While the big cities in Italy are draws for a reason, there is endless charm and authentic interaction with locals that you’ll only get when visiting one of Italy’s smaller towns.
A day trip from a major city will give you a taste of small town living, but for the real fairy tale life in the Italian countryside or seaside, carve out at least a night or two of your vacation – you won’t regret it!
Malta has been on my bucket list for a while, and with its capital Valletta being named a European Capital of Culture for 2018 and hosting a range of festivals and events, there is no better time to plan a visit. An archipelago south of Sicily toward the northern African coast, it also boasts mild weather in winter and a hot but not scorching summer.
Whether you’re interested in historical sites, beautiful beaches, or adventure – or all three like me! – there is no shortage of activities to keep you entertained during your stay. Plus, almost everyone speaks English, so you’ll have an easy time during your stay.
Another 2018 accolade is in store for Mexico City, which has been named the World Design Capital of 2018, the first city in the Americas with this designation. I last visited the sprawling metropolis known locally as D.F. (Distrito Federal, or “federal district”) nearly a decade ago and even then it stood out for the culture, art, design, and of course, the foodie culture that has since exploded all over the city.
With over 20 million people, there is no shortage of bustling areas to explore. There are tons of reasons for a visit in 2018, just remember with the high elevation, always wear sunscreen 😉
Most people think of the Seychelles as a luxury beach destination like the Maldives, which it is, but this African nation of islands also has a variety of AirBNB properties available at a much more reasonable cost for those looking for a value escape.
It’s a large enough destination that there are a variety of activities from visiting a nature preserve to water sports to a tea plantation. And it’s unknown enough that the beaches don’t tend to get crowded and you can have a whole stretch of pristine white sand all to yourself.
Singapore
For many, Singapore is a spot to stop briefly for a layover or a day or two en route to another Asian destination. I came for a full week, and never ran out of things to do and eat. English is spoken all over Singapore, which makes it an easy place for foreigners to get around, whether you’re shopping in Chinatown or strolling through Little India. Certainly, if you get a chance, pop in and explore!
Singapore is known for its food culture, recently taking over the title of cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant in the world from Hong Kong and featuring street food in informal hawker stalls located just about everywhere. Plus, it has one of my favorite breakfasts ever, you’ll get addicted, too!
Not everywhere I visited and loved in 2017 made my list of top spots, but there are plenty of other posts up on the blog as well from my past year of travel, including some off-the-beaten-path US destinations like Detroit, Michigan and Charlottesville, Virginia.
What destinations are inspiring you for 2018 travel? Anywhere I missed with something timely happening this year? What’s the biggest trip you’re planning for 2018? Let me know more in the ‘Comments’ below!
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Top 7 Excuses for NOT Going on a Cruise – & Why You Should Anyway!
Only when I has published my Top Tips for Taking a Cruise, did I realize that lots of people are resistant to even going on a cruise in the first place. Some were vaguely unsure about the idea, but plenty of others had very specific reasons why cruises just weren’t for them.
As someone who loves boats, and hops on the local water taxi as often as I can, I must admit – I was a bit surprised.
For me, cruises conjure up images of me inhaling the fresh sea air and looking out over the horizon, relaxing as the waves lap up on the boat, and listening to the rhythmic movement of the water. Of course, for others, cruises are viewed as either impractical vacation choices, not matching a personal travel style or budget, or just not the preferred mode of travel.
Within these reasons, though, are quite a few misconceptions about what cruise travel is or isn’t. And if you haven’t cruised before, you may not be aware of the variety that is out there, from the size of the cruise ship to the itinerary to the amenities available. There are lots of ways to make informed choices that do match your travel style, and offer a level of convenience and variety of destinations that would be difficult without a cruise ship.
So here they are. The top 7 excuses for not going on a cruise – and why you should go anyway!
Excuse 1 | Seasickness
It’s a common problem. Lots of people have motion sickness or sea sickness, although if you’ve never been on a cruise, your boating experience is likely limited to small vessels, like sailboats or a ferry. Most cruise ships are HUGE. Which means that it’s much more stable in the water, and even if get seasick on smaller ships, you may not when on a cruise.
Even if you find that you are seasick on a cruise ship, modern (and ancient) medicine has got your back. From pills to acupressure to magnets to wristbands to ginger supplements, there are lots of options to counter any seasickness you may feel. And if whatever you brought doesn’t work, your cruise reception desk likely has remedies available for free once you’re on the ship.
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It’s true, when you’re on a boat in the middle of the sea or ocean, you can’t just disembark at will (or at least I wouldn’t recommend it). For some, it may be an existential fear, or simply not wanting to feel like they are trapped. A cruise ship really is a floating city, and is like any self-contained resort that you might visit for 5 nights or a week and never leave.
If the prospect of a full day at sea still puts a jolt of fear in you, just choose the right itinerary. Some cruises involve many days at sea, while others visit a series of ports in close proximity, so you are docked at land all day, and the boat transports you at night to the next destination. There are plenty of sailings in Europe, Asia, and the Caribbean that involve no entire days at sea.
Excuse 3 | Worry about keeping a diet
With a cruise ship essentially as a floating city, it also loads up at the start of each sailing with all of the food supplies for the entire duration. And yes, that’s a lot. You’re likely to have a buffet available as an option for every single meal, and for some people, that can get dangerous.
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But keeping a diet on a cruise ship is really just like keeping a diet at home. While buffets will be an option, there is also typically a portioned, sit-down option available for each meal as well. If you’re concerned about portion size, take advantage of ships with varied dining choices. You can also stick to salad for lunch, limit your alcohol intake (fruity cocktails add to your calorie count quickly!) and only eat dessert once a day.
Excuse 4 | Activities – what will I do all day at sea?
How entertained you will be on a cruise ship is really up to you. Ships with the most amenities will have sports available (I’ve been on cruises with rollerblading tracks, a rock climbing wall, and an ice skating rink), a gym with weight and cardio machines, fitness classes, a spa, a casino, and a rotating entertainment schedule each night.
And like with the second Excuse about being “stuck” on the boat, if you are concerned about running out of activities to do on the ship, simply choose a cruise with more days in port and fewer (or no) days at sea. Having a new city or town to explore each day, will keep your cruise filled with a variety of activities.
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Being on a cruise ship is also a wonderful opportunity to kick back, relax with a good book, and read uninterrupted in peaceful surroundings. Sometimes doing nothing can be quite nice, too =)
If you weren’t aware, many cruise ships as a default will seat people together in the formal dining room for dinner each night. On my last cruise, we were a table of twelve – six couples seated together, and none of us knew each other beforehand. While the idea of eating with complete strangers might seem a little strange, it can be a great way to socialize on the ship, and I had a wonderful experience with this.
But if you’re headed on a romantic getaway and would like some seclusion, just let your cruise line know. Most will be able to accommodate your request for a table on your own if they know in advance. You can also opt out of the formal dining room and simply visit the buffet for dinner. Larger cruise ships in particular tend to have expanded dining options as well, like a private table not tied to a particular dinner seating and specialty restaurants that you can reserve.
Excuse 6 | Ship will be full of <insert age group here>
Yes, there are many bad stereotypes about cruises out there, but not all of which are true. Some people are concerned about too many children on a sailing, who might make lots of noise and disturb peace and quiet. Others might be concerned about too many older cruisers, and be looking for more of a young vibe and party scene. And families might be seeking cruises that are kid-friendly, with not too many young cruisers partying all night.
Like with everything about cruise ships, it depends. Certainly a cruise during the summer or school holidays will be more likely to have families with children on board. Expensive cruises, like those to Antarctica or the Galapagos Islands tend to have more retirees who have both the time and money for the journey.
The itinerary will also be a factor, as well as the amenities on board the ship. For me, the composition of the other cruise guests has always been a mix, and even my recent July cruise that I expected to be packed with kids did not have a huge proportion of families on board.
TIP! If too many children on board the ship is a concern, seek to travel on a ship with an adult-only pool area.
Excuse 7 | Will be over budget buying extras on board
Certainly not everything is included in the price of your room aboard a cruise ship. There might be mandatory tipping, some casino losses, and the money you spend on cocktails by the pool and wine at dinner. And if you’re not paying attention, the extras can add up.
The way to avoid an unpleasant surprise at the end of your cruise when you get the room bill is to plan for it! When you first book your cruise, inquire about things like mandatory tipping and which items are included in the base price, and factor these in when budgeting for your trip.
If there is an extra that you’ll consume a lot of – whether soda, specialty coffee drinks, or alcoholic beverages – most cruise ships offer packages that are usually a better deal than purchasing these things as you go. Planning to go on official trip excursions? There is often a discount if you book in advance of the cruise and sometimes even pre-cruise sales to reserve at the best possible price.
Overall, the main key is to decide what you want or need in a cruise ahead of time. Identify your budget, and then be sure the cost of the sailing plus any anticipated extras (tipping, excursions, beverages) fall within it.
Even if you last cruised five or ten years ago, you might be surprised about the range of options now available for those interested in taking a cruise vacation. The question is not whether or not to cruise, but simply which cruise option is right for you.
Happy sailing!
Lana
Have you ever been on a cruise? If you don’t want to go on a cruise, why not? Are you convinced after this article? Share away in the ‘Comments’ below.
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In case you haven’t already figured it out – I’m an avid reader. I especially like to read books set in countries where I’m living and traveling, and sometimes books I’ve selected for other reasons end up inspiring me to visit the places where they’re set.
To kick off the new year, here are my pics for the top books to inspire travel, and get you excited for your next adventure:
I started this book right before my trip to Singapore at the end of last year, and was so hooked that I immediately read Kwan’s follow-up novel (the third book of the trilogy is expected to be released in May 2017). A bit of a guilty pleasure or beach read kind of book, there is also a great sense of what it’s like in Singapore. Although many of the characters come from very well-to-do families, there are a lot of drool-worthy descriptions of Singaporean food and the street hawkers that make eating in this tiny island nature such an adventure – you’ll want to eat your way through Singapore, too.
After reading one of Bryson’s most popular books, A Short History of Nearly Everything, I was hooked on his sense of humor and how craftily he uses levity to present facts in a memorable way. When I moved to Australia in 2012, Bryson’s book on his travels in Australia (titled differently depending on where in the world you live) was the first book I read upon my arrival. Not only are his descriptions absolutely hilarious, they are also spot on in portraying this island nation and continent. And although it was over a year later that I finally had the chance to visit some of the parts of Australia that Bryson describes, his imagery is so vivid that I still clearly remembered his passages and how exactly they corresponded to the reality on the ground. One of my all-time top books to inspire travel!
This book chronicles the author’s trip by train from London across Asia and back. I read it during my trip to Sri Lanka a year ago – for the small part of the book that is set there – and ended up completely engrossed start to finish. Descriptions cover human nature and the train journey itself, as well as the various destinations on the train journey. For places like Vietnam where I’ve traveled before, I smiled knowingly as I read the passages, and for the countries I haven’t visited, I got a unique view of the culture through Theroux’s descriptions. Covering so much ground, surely one of the stops on this train journey will pique your interest. And in the meantime, the book will keep you highly entertained.
Naples is not always a destination for visitors to Italy, but this first book of Ferrante’s four-part series about two friends shows why it should be. The sometimes harsh reality of the city living in the shadow of a volcano also means that there is a vivacity to Naples – and southern Italy in general – that is just not quite the same up north. It is also a great window into the mentality of a southern Italian, and how challenging it can be to break the mold of where you were raised. Not only will you want to go to Naples, you’ll have a much better understanding of the city when you do. It’s one of those books to inspire travel you might not have expected, but will land you in an incredible destination!
Raw and honest, the descriptions in this book are so vivid that I was quite surprised to find out that it had been written many years after the journey took place. In the wake of personal problems, Strayed decides to hike the Pacific Coast Trail solo. Not only was this book inspirational for me as a frequent solo female traveler, but it also illustrates how time spent outdoors can be transformative. If it’s been awhile since you’ve trekked through nature, you’ll want to get back out there after this read.
Although there are some specific travel destinations that come up in this book, I took the most from its central idea – that people these days say “no” quite a bit, whether to an invitation to go out for drinks after work or a proposition for a far-flung vacation. And you open yourself up to so much more adventure and unexpected experiences by simply saying “yes” more. There will always be reasons not to take that next trip or embark on a new adventure, but you gain so much more by going anyway. I doubt most people will go to the extremes that Wallace did, but the underlying reminder is a strong one.
What would you pick as the top books to inspire travel? Which one has affected you most?
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Yayoi Kusama’s Art: Exhibitions I’ve Seen & Where to Catch Her Next
Disclaimer: I visited the Moderna Museet in Stockholm as a guest/participant of the TBEX Conference & Visit Stockholm. Opinions are all mine, of course – I always tell it like it is.
How did I go from Kusama being an artist I had never heard of and just happened to stumble upon to waiting almost 3 hours to see an exhibit of hers last month?
Like all great travel experiences, walking through a Kusama exhibition makes me feel like a tiny speck in a giant universe and compels me to look out on the world with a new sense of wonder.
Usually those sensations for me are reserved for being out in nature or standing in the shadow of a great architectural marvel – like hiking through tea plantations in Sri Lanka or ascending the Burj Khalifa in Dubai. In the case of Kusama, she masterfully achieves this effect within the confines of museum walls.
And even though my almost 3-hour wait was just to get tickets, and doesn’t include the time waiting at each of the individual infinity mirror rooms, I thought it was definitely worth it for the experience!
About Kusama
I think the most surprising thing for me about Kusama is her age. She was born in the 1920s, and is pushing 90 years old today (while still creating art)!
Like many artists, she had a rough childhood. Then in her teenage years, she began having hallucinations of dots, which became a fixation throughout her career. According to Kusama, it is the dots that transport you to infinity.
As the friend I made while waiting in line at the recent Washington, DC exhibit observed, “her art feels so modern, I thought everything here was new.”
And that is another thing about Kusama, her edginess is timeless. Her art felt shockingly modern and avant garde back in the 1950s and 60s, and that same art feels equally innovative today.
Flashback to less than a year ago at the TBEX travel blogging conference in Stockholm, Sweden. I made plans to attend fairly last-minute, so I ended up on a tour that was relatively random for me during the afternoon leading up to the start of the conference: Art & Architecture.
The itinerary was already planned for us, and while I glanced briefly at the list of museums we’d be visiting, I didn’t do any research into what exactly we might be seeing when we arrived.
Our first stop was the Moderna Museet, Stockholm’s modern art museum. We saw a few exhibits there with a guide, but it was the Kusama exhibition that was the most memorable by far.
I’m not a huge art buff, and had never heard of Kusama. And honestly, I probably wouldn’t have sought out the modern art museum there on my own, but it just happened to be included on my tour.
I got a sense of how prominent an artist she is when the museum entrance was plastered with dots and what I now know to be one of her signature pumpkins covered in dots:
Although I didn’t know to call it this at the time, there was also one “infinity mirror room.” This one featured spotted lanterns covered in black dots with lights inside that kept shifting color. Infinity rooms are basically enclosed boxes with every surface a mirror, so the items in the room (and your reflection!) are everywhere you look, multiplied many times:
Maybe it’s just the math teacher in me, but I like geometry and shapes, and the uniformity of the reflections in all directions appeals to me. Especially with the contrast of spherical globes covered in circles, and then inside a square space.
The Stockholm exhibit also had a lot of art displayed in open areas, including the other Kusama work there that struck me the most.
Instead of a surface with dots painted on, this exhibit consisted of highly polished and reflective silver spheres each about the size of a basketball. I definitely was under the impression that this was a new exhibit, although I later read that it had originally been created for the Venice Biennale in 1966!
Kusama is known for being particular about how her art is displayed and experienced, and this display was no exception. When a single ball rolled a bit out of place while I was there, someone from the museum came over wearing white gloves to replace it in its correct spot:
And of course, like many of Kusama works with interesting titles, this one is aptly named – Narcissus Garden. Although I didn’t know that when I captured this shot with my reflection, many times over:
After my experience in the infinity mirror room in Stockholm, I had a sense of what to expect in DC. The pleasant surprise is that for the Infinity Mirrors exhibition, it really is a comprehensive retrospective of Kusama’s 65-year career.
Kusama at her core is known for her dots, and you’ll see them throughout the exhibit. They are not only in the rooms but also painted in different configurations on canvas, decorating 3-dimensional figures, and part of mini flashing displays you peer into to get the effect of the full-size infinity room.
The mini infinity mirror room that mesmerized me the most was called Love Forever, and had two square windows on different sides for two people to peer in simultaneously.
But of course, the focus was mostly on the infinity mirror rooms. And waiting to see them was the bulk of your time in the exhibit.
The 5 main infinity mirror rooms:
Phalli’s Field
I liked how bright this room was with the simple color scheme of white and red. It was easy to see all the reflections generated when the room was completely closed.
Aftermath of Obliteration of Eternity
Entering this infinity room involved a bit of ducking as there are lanterns hanging down at different heights. But they really appear to take up the whole space, so it’s a bit other-worldly to see yourself among the lights.
This shot of me and a pumpkin painted yellow outside the museum gives an idea of what it was like in the infinity mirror room with the (smaller) lit pumpkins:
Love Transformed into Dots
This was the infinity mirror room that was most similar to the one I saw in Stockholm, except that this room was only with pink spheres with black dots, instead of the multi-color display I had seen previously. Still a lot of fun!
The Souls of Millions of Light Years Away
I perceived this room as two levels of colors standing inside, so it definitely felt as if you were gazing out toward a distant horizon.
Even with the fast-paced nature of the timing, it was really incredible when the staff closed the door behind you and you were completely enclosed by mirrors and light reflections. And it actually turned out to be a plus for many of the rooms to be only 1 person, as even with my new friend with me in line, I got to go in completely alone for several of the rooms.
I also loved the concept of the Obliteration Room, which was the final part of the exhibit before exiting. It was very cool and interactive, and I had actually seen friends’ pictures already before I went.
But what I didn’t realize from the photos was that it wasn’t paint splotches artistically thrown on the walls, but stickers! The room actually started off completely white, including the furniture, and then a staff member handed each person a sheet of 6 different-colored stickers as they left the exhibition:
By the time I got there several months in, it looked like this:
As you can see, it was pretty crowded, but with a little patience and smart camera angling, it wasn’t too hard to get some good shots all on your own:
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It was such a fun place for a final frolic, and the best part is that after all the queuing, there is no time limit for the Obliteration Room.
Where You Can See Kusama’s Artwork Next
Even if you missed seeing the Kusama exhibitions in Stockholm and Washington, DC, lucky for you the DC exhibition is now embarking on a North American tour through late 2018. Never traveled for art before? Here’s your chance!
The Kusama Infinity Mirrors exhibition, will be appearing:
June 30, 2017 – September 10, 2017 Seattle Art Museum
Seattle, WA, USA
*As of June 1st, tickets are completely sold out, but limited same-day tickets will be available on-site on a first-come, first-served basis
March 3, 2018 – May 27 2018 Art Gallery of Ontario
Toronto, Canada
*Ticketing details to be announced.
July 7, 2018 – September 30, 2018 Cleveland Museum of Art
Cleveland, OH, USA
*Ticketing details to be announced.
November 18, 2018 – February 17, 2019 The High
Atlanta, GA, USA
*Ticketing details to be announced.
Practical Tips for Visiting
The laid back Kusama exhibit I visited in Stockholm was a bit different from the current Hirshhorn-organized exhibition Infinity Mirrors that is heading around North America over the next eighteen months. Since the exhibit has multiple infinity mirror rooms that only allow a few people in at a time, tickets will likely be extremely limited at all of the museums mentioned above.
First, I would say that while the Seattle exhibition (which starts at the end of this month) is already sold out for advance tickets, exact policies have not been announced for the other 3 cities. If you’re planning to catch Kusama in Los Angeles, Toronto, or Cleveland, definitely get on the respective museum’s mailing list or follow them on social media to be the first to learn about getting tickets.
Even if you try your best to score advance tickets, realize that you may not succeed. When Infinity Mirrors was in DC, I tried multiple times for the advance timed tickets that were released weekly, but was never successful at getting them. Which is not surprising when the Hirshhorn revealed that during one March week, nearly 60,000 people were vying for fewer than 10,000 advance passes!
And even during the week in DC, there were looooong lines to get in, so I definitely debated whether I thought I should go.
For the first several months, getting there 1 hour or so before museum opening time was sufficient to get a timed ticket for later in the day. As the exhibition closing date approached, lines got significantly longer, earlier in the morning.
I went on a Wednesday during last 2 weeks of exhibit. I arrived around 8:30am, with the museum opening at 10:00am. And I was far enough back in the line – several hundred people – that it then took another 1 hour to receive the timed tickets.
I ended up with a 1:00pm ticket, which was the earliest time slot available when I got to the front of the queue. And there were plenty of people who lined up by the 10:00am opening, but were so far back in the line that they got turned away when timed tickets ran out.
So yes, go for same-day tickets, but plan ahead!
TIP!Bring a book. Between my earplugs and Kindle, I had a blissful 90 minutes of reading as I waited outside.
TIP!Prepare to wait, even if you’ve been lucky enough to get advance tickets. Even beyond the waiting to obtain a timed ticket, there is a separate queue for all of the infinity mirror rooms. One of the individual lines I waited on took 45 minutes! Overall, I spent around 2 hours at the exhibit, and about 1.5 hours of that time was waiting in line. Time-wise there is definitely a lot more waiting than reward, although it gives you more time to ponder and discuss the art.
TIP!Bring a friend or be ready to make one. You’ll probably want someone else there to take pictures of you and especially to keep you entertained waiting in line. It was also helpful that I made a friend pretty quickly because then we took turns holding a spot in line while the other one explored the rest of the exhibits. Although for many the infinity mirror rooms are the main attraction, there is a fair bit of Kusama’s art besides the infinity rooms on display.
TIP! Dress the part! Some people wore solid colors like me, while others arrived decked out in polka dotted dresses or outrageous outfits. If you go, you’re probably only going to go once, so dress for the pictures you want. Also consider that you’ll be spending a lot of time on your feet.
TIP! Take a nice camera. There are a lot of flashing lights and illuminated sections, so if you have a nice camera, you’ll want to have it with you to capture everything.
TIP! Jump around between the infinity rooms if you can. Fortunately in DC you didn’t need to visit the infinity mirror rooms in order, so I skipped ahead to some shorter lines and then backtracked as the other lines eased. For whatever reason with the exhibit’s layout, one line was always long – that was the one where I waited 45 minutes.
TIP! Be ready when it’s your turn to enter the infinity room. Even if you’ve been waiting a while, as you approach the front of the line, pay attention. At least in DC, you could enter each infinity mirror room for only 20-30 seconds each, so people move through quickly. All of the Hirshhorn staff had timers to track this, and it goes by quicker than you’d think.
Half a minute is not a lot of time to reflect, stare in wonder, gaze into infinity, wonder about the universe, and also capture the perfect selfie inside. But it’s worth the experience of trying.
Have you experienced Kusama’s art before? Would you ever plan a trip around an art exhibition? I’d love to hear your thoughts in the ‘Comments.’
You could spend weeks in Venice without exhausting your options for museums to explore, churches to visit, and places for a delicious meal. But since your time visiting will likely be much more limited, here’s the Travel Savvy Gal “cheat sheet” for the essentials:
Things to Do
Rialto Bridge
It’s iconic. It is quite tall, so offers a great view of the Grand Canal. You’re decently likely to pass it anyway as you wander Venice, but in case not, seek it out at least once.
St. Mark’s Square
This is the piazza you see in many of the typical photographs of Venice. With several tourist attractions right on the square you’ll likely be here already. When you are, take some time in the square itself to appreciate its grandeur.
Exploring here will give you a solid insight into Venetian history and life.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s worth reserving a ticket for the Doge’s Palace in advance, as you’ll have a much shorter queue to enter.
I of course recommend visiting for longer if you can, but if you only have one day in Venice, read more about how to spend One Day in Venice for tips about making the most of your limited time.
If you’re going to see one sight in Venice, this should be it. The decoration is a little over-the-top for my personal preference, but the church is just incredible.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Lines to enter the Basilica can be long, so reserve a time slot in advance on the “Reservations” section on the website linked above.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to go to the outdoor terraces for a lovely view of St. Mark’s Square.
There are more sections to this basilica than meets the eye, so it was a wonderful place to explore and see a variety of artwork and carved altars in different mediums.
Off the Beaten Path
Islands
As you know from my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice, it’s definitely worth it to set aside the time to explore some of Venice’s islands beyond the main sections. If you do take a day to island-hop, the best meal I’ve had outside of Venice’s main areas was on the island of Murano – see the Best Bites section below.
While 2016 marked 500 years since the establishment of the Jewish Ghetto in Venice, Jewish life has existed in the city for even longer. The museum gives a good overview, and the tour of the ghetto is engaging and excellent.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Typical tour times may be altered for the Sabbath (from late Friday through Saturday) and on Jewish holidays, so verify availability in advance.
The tower requires advance booking, which you can do not far in advance at the ticket office on the other side of St. Mark’s Square. It’s a different perspective on the area, and has some great views of St. Mark’s (the Square and the Basilica) from the upper levels.
There is a massive art exhibition in odd-numbered years, with pavilions by country that contain some fairly progressive art. Most are located in the Giardini area, although there are pavilions all around the city. Even-numbered years have been focusing on architecture.
The art collection here is truly outstanding, and is situated with some lovely sculpture gardens and terraces on the Grand Canal. Worth a visit, although not typical to Venice per se.
A well-known fish restaurant, you can get a tasting menu of small plates to sample the variety of Venetian seafood, for a minimum of two people. It also has popular pasta and gnocchi specials daily that I’ve found to be quite delicious – be sure to ask your server about these as they’re not printed in the menu.
Some of the portion sizes are quite sizeable, so order accordingly or ask your server for recommendations. While large, the polenta with baccalà (salt cod) appetizer was exceptional.
Located on the island of Murano, there are a variety of typical Italian pastas, meat dishes, and pizzas on offer. I had a seafood carbonara here that I still dream about.
An institution for Venetian cuisine with a lot of local customers, a meal here can be a good value or extravagant, depending on what you order. Although known for its fish options, the standout dish on my recent visit was the fried liver and polenta.
Best Bites (for cicchetti, Venetian tapas)
My three favorite spots are listed below. Check out my cicchetti post for a thorough run-down of different spots for Venetian tapas, organized by neighborhood.
This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice, so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city. I like it for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.
This long-time Venetian spot has solid cicchetti choices and a traditional atmosphere. There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition.
Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists. This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may walk past the turn off the main street the first time like I did, but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.
I haven’t loved any of the gelato I’ve had in Venice, although I’ve tried many places. I’d recommend waiting to be in other parts of Italy to savor some frozen goodness, but if the craving hits in Venice, these are the best places I’ve tried:
How does one person become an expert on where to stay in Venice, Italy?
In this case, live in Milan for several years, under 3 hours by train from Venice, and visit often like I did!
Venice was so close to Milan that I visited often, sometimes even as part of a last-minute weekend plan. So when people ask me about where to stay in Venice, Italy, I have quite a few ideas from all of the great places I’ve stayed.
Amazingly, I never repeated a hotel or B&B stay in my many trips. Partly because it’s fun to explore new neighborhoods and get to know the city, and also because there was one trip with my parents when they visited, one as a solo traveler, another with friends, and so on.
Which is good news for you, because I have *personally stayed* at almost all of the places listed below. And can attest to what great jumping off points they are for exploring this magical city.
I don’t know that there is one singular best place to stay in Venice – either a specific hotel or neighborhood – but there are certainly are many best places to stay in Venice, Italy.
And let’s be real, this is life, not every experience was completely magical. So I’ve also included plenty of TRAVEL SAVVY TIPS and resources to help you avoid common pitfalls that come along with staying in Venice – so you can focus on enjoying this incredible city!
Where to Stay in Venice, Italy
As you’ll see in your research, there is no one right or easy answer as to where to stay in Venice.
It may depend on:
Whether you are traveling solo or as a couple or in a group
Whether you are traveling with family or friends
If this is your first trip to Venice or a return visit
How many nights you’ll be staying
Are you overwhelmed yet?
I am all smiles strolling around Venice, Italy and the side canals
Not to worry, while the options are many, I think there are really some very basic things to keep in mind.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most visitors when deciding where to stay in Venice will either want to be close to the train station OR close to the main tourist sights around St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco. → Decide which you’d prefer.
And it’s also important to keep in mind that Venice is not like other cities you’ve ever visited. For one, there are NO CARS.
So it helps to have some idea of what sights you’ll see on your visit, and how much walking you’d like to do to pick the best location to stay in Venice.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Regardless of where in Venice you stay, I always recommend staying close to a stop for the vaporetto, which is Venice’s metro system – by boat! It is a great way to get around the city and even to some of the islands you can’t reach by strolling across a bridge, like Murano and Burano.
Best Places to Stay in Venice, Italy
Now this is the part you’ve been waiting for – specific recommendations of places you can stay that are convenient, affordable (or maybe even a splurge!) and considered to be in a best location to stay in Venice
Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to St. Mark’s Square
If this is your first trip to Venice, let’s face it, you probably want to stay close to St. Mark’s Square, known in Italian as Piazza San Marco. That is where many iconic sights are located, and you’ll get to view them at all hours of the day as you explore.
While you’ll need to get yourself from the train or bus to your hotel (most likely by boat, of course!) once you have dropped off your luggage, Venice will be at your doorstep.
There is also a bus from the Marco Polo airport to Piazzale Roma (right by the train station and main vaporetto metro boat stops) that runs every 20-30 minutes and costs €8 one-way or €15 for a round-trip ticket.
Find the current bus timetable for the “Venice Marco Polo Airport – Venice Piazzale Roma (express service)” HERE
Just a few steps from here to get back to Locanda al Leon
Location:
3-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
3-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats) with a lot of available routes
Price:
$150/€130 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
I got lucky and was able to stay here last minute on a July visit and can attest that even though it is a gorgeous, historic building with a traditional Venetian feel, the A/C is modern and will combat the hottest day you might face in Venice. The staff is very hospitable and it really is a beautiful property. Plus, the hotel is in a great location, so it’s really great value for money.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! They also have some cheaper single rooms if you are a solo traveler.
View of Ponte all’Accademia, the bridge over the Grand Canal in Venice
Location:
10-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
4-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
2- minute walk to the Bridge of the Accademia/Ponte dell’Accademia (one of the few bridges that crosses the Grand Canal!)
Price:
$160/€140 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
With a 5.0 score on Trip Advisor with 500+ reviews, who doesn’t love this Bed & Breakfast? Although I have not been able to stay here yet, this is my top choice for my next visit to Venice. While an easy walk to St. Mark’s Square and the main tourist sites, it is also close to a bridge across the Grand Canal that gets less attention than Rialto Bridge, but is just as beautiful. Plus, some of my favorite Venice attractions are right across the bridge. The B&B is recently renovated and reviewers talk about the beautiful property, delicious breakfast, great service, and excellent recommendations around Venice from staff. This is in a quieter part of San Marco quarter, which is a plus for me as well.
Best Places to Stay in Venice Close to the Train Station
Train Station Santa Lucia in Venice Italy
The main train station in Venice, Stazione Santa Lucia, has the advantage of also being close to most of the various metro (vaporetto) lines, so it is an easy jumping off point, regardless of where you’d like to explore around Venice.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be aware that a “hotel close to the Train Station” may also be over a bridge with a lot of stairs, so consider the exact location of your accommodation when deciding which luggage to use for your trip.
This is my favorite part of Venice to stay, because it is accessible to boats and exploring by foot, but is far away enough from the main tourist hub to have a more relaxed feel. You also have better food options nearby if you’re tired after a day of sightseeing and want to stay close by.
Location:
5-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a tall bridge)
5-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
Price:
$200-300/€190-270 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
This is one of the absolutely closest hotels you can find by the train station, which is your likely arrival point. It’s just a short walk from the station and over a bridge, with plenty of locals lined up to help you with your luggage (for a charge, of course). As for the hotel, it’s the only room I’ve stayed at in Venice with a view of the Grand Canal, so if you splurge for a canal view room you are in for a treat. When my parents visited we stayed here, and they were able to get a good deal through a travel agent back home. Plus, their rooftop bar, the Sky Lounge, is a luxurious spot to spend the evening sipping away as you look out over the water.
Location:
8-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station (over a bridge)
8-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
Price:
$250-300/€230-280 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
Although I haven’t stayed here, this would be the ultimate splurge hotel in Venice, still with the convenience of the location close to the train station. Those who have been lucky enough to stay here rave about the service and note that staff members exceed expectations so everyone had excellent stays. Although close for getting around, it is also in a quieter neighborhood than the Hotel Carlton above.
Location:
10-minute walk from the Santa Lucia train station
20-minute walk to the St. Mark’s Square/Piazza San Marco
10-minute walk to the closest vaporetto stop (the Venice metro boats)
Price:
$110-160/€100-150 per night, approximately
Why I Liked It:
The word ca’ is a shortened version of casa, or house, and there is definitely a homey feel for this place. This was my favorite spot to stay as a solo traveler, and is more affordable than other spots due to having a shared bathroom for the single rooms. The property also has double, triple, and quadruple rooms with private bathrooms. The location is in easy walking distance to stop of my favorite cicchetti and restaurant spots, and also has been renovated since my last stay.
While there’s always the chance of scoring a great hotel or B&B deal, I find that for more than 2 people, an AirBNB is typically the cheapest and most convenient accommodation option – not just in Venice, but in all of Italy!
If you’ve never tried it before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!
Before booking your AirBNB, definitely read reviews and make sure that other guests have had their stay go smoothly, as not all Venice AirBNB experiences are good ones. (For my one bad AirBNB experience in Venice, I ended up staying the rest of the weekend at the lovely Locanda al Leon – the first spot on this list – which completely redeemed the trip!)
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Pay extra attention to the availability of the host in case of a problem. Also check reviews to see if people met their host quickly or waited a long time, which happens more frequently with AirBNBs in Venice vs. other places.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you visit in summer, be sure that there was adequate A/C noted by other guests (and that the property has it in the first place!).
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving very early or late in the day, make sure there will be someone available at your arrival time.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to have the ability to call local phone numbers and/or be on a data signal to use apps to get in touch with the person you are meeting, if needed.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Of course, you may be surprised to learn that AirBNB can sometimes be more expensive than a hotel, so I always recommend checking your options so you can make an informed choice:
Tips on Where to Stay in Venice and Booking Strategies
For most visitors, the challenge is not where to stay in Venice, but how to get to your accommodation once you arrive in the city!
Since cars are not allowed in Venice, visitors basically arrive by bus or train (the stations for both are close to one another), and then make their way to a hotel or guesthouse on foot or by boat.
While some hotels offer shuttle service to arrive, I’ve always found my way on my own.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Whatever your plan, take into account how you will arrive and how far somewhere is from the train station when making your hotel booking.
When deciding on where to stay in Venice, you can quickly check details using the public transportation option on Google Maps – in Venice, it shows you boat routes!
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Sometimes B&Bs are more expensive than hotels – and sometimes the reverse is true – so be sure to check for Venice accommodations with your dates inserted to compare prices and availability.
However you decide to book, be sure to consult the Travel Savvy Gal Checklist for Booking Accommodation to make sure there’s nothing you forget to check when you decide where to stay in Venice.
Once you’ve booked, wherever you’re staying will likely provide information on the best way to arrive, whether it is by foot or boat.
Actv metro boat (vaporetto) in Venice, Italy
BOAT OPTIONS
If you are figuring this out on your own, there are 2 main boat options:
Boat Taxi – this is different from the metro boat (vaporetto) and different from a gondola. Just like you can hail a car taxi on a city street, you can grab a boat taxi leaving the docks next to the train station.
Boat Metro (vaporetto) – Like in any other city, the public transportation option will be the cheapest. You can purchase vaporetto tickets from a machine in person when you arrive, or arrange it ahead of time as part of a Venice City Pass. There is also an app for your mobile phone: the AVM Venezia Official App.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! No matter how you purchase your vaporetto ticket, be sure to validate the ticket by scanning it with the machine on the dock outside of the train station. They will come and check sometimes and you could be fined if you forget!
It is mystical, powerful, emotional. A word that defies definition.
Embodied in the flourish of a bullfighter snapping his red cape in an impassioned ¡Olé!
Captured in the intensity of the flamenco music and dance.
Or in my case, the primal wonder I too felt, experiencing a performance of flamenco in Seville.
Flamenco in One Word: Duende.
Carnal, primal
The lone square of dance floor
The stomp
The clap
The hip sway
The allure
Inviting the audience in
Then repelling us in a moment, with the quick double snap of the castanets
Other spots cater to tourists with performers on a stage
But this spot is real, personal
Low-key with nachos and pitchers of sangria
Two shows nightly
I’m so entranced by the first performance
My friend and I know instantly we’ll stay for both
The performers change but the sustained intensity is real
The passion for the craft
The pride in recreating those time-honored, ancient steps
with feeling
making them personal
The raw emotion of falling in love and losing it all
The intensity and depth of feeling that comes through with every step
every sultry, seductive beckoning
And I’m so close
I can see the beads of sweat
Feel her eyes sear through me
The artist at work
With feeling
It all feels so personal in this moment
And everyone in the room channels the electricity
This is flamenco
The reason everyone seeks it out
To live the emotional arc
Be brought up high, only to land grounded at the earth at the end
Feeling touched by the experience
Emotions at the surface
This is what it means to live
To live your art
Art is life.
Pictures are not allowed of the performances, which I realize too late
I’ve taken one.
A single visual memory of the magic created in an intimate space
The whisper of flamenco lingering with me
And a feeling
That this life is amazing, and intense
Meant to be lived with full passion, a full heart
Chasing your dreams
Having a passion even if you do not profit from it at all
Using your passion to connect with others to inspire them
And I leave inspired
Something burning in me that I have not yet channeled
A blog that has not yet been dreamt of
An intensity of a singular travel experience that makes me send every friend who goes to Seville to this spot
Then taking years to even attempt to capture the experience of that night in words
None of stacking up to the experience of sitting in that audience
making eye contact with the dancer behind the performance
and letting my soul be stirred
It only works if you let it.
Seeing Flamenco in Seville
Admittedly, I had not done much to prepare for my trip to Seville (and the friend I was traveling with hadn’t either). We tried to make up for the lack of advance planning by posting on Facebook and pinging friends we knew had been. From the airport!
As we fielded suggestions, I was surprised at the recommendation to see a flamenco show, specifically at La Carboneria. It was honestly not on my radar at all. But I’m so glad we went.
It is free to see flamenco at La Carboneria, with shows at 9:30 and 10:30pm (and sometimes also 11:30pm). There is a bar on one side, a small square slab for flamenco dancing on the other, and long tables and benches in between. La Carboneria has a full bar, which includes the option of purchasing sangria by the liter. There are also some pretty basic food options, which we did not sample since we had eaten beforehand.
Many locals call this the best flamenco in Seville, and surprisingly, the audience was a mix of both locals and visitors. The venue certainly does not cater to tourists, and felt like a very local experience you wouldn’t find anywhere else.
TIP! It is also a very intimate space, so if you get there enough in advance, you can snag a spot on a bench right next to the dancer.
TIP! If you stay for multiple shows, a lot of people leave after seeing one performance and you can snag a better spot then.
For the performance itself, there is a guitar player and a single dancer expresses her art on a fairly small square slab placed on the floor, that looks as if it is made from some sort of slate or rock. The steps are incredibly intricate, but it is the emotion and intensity – the duende – behind both the dancing and guitar playing that defines flamenco.
It was so mesmerizing we knew immediately after the first performance that we would stay for a second show.
I was obviously a ‘blogger in the making’ at the time, because I struck up a conversation with the dancer there that night in between shows. Apparently it is not the same person every night, but over the course of the week, two or three excellent dancers who do flamenco dancing as their passion. And it shows.
While I fell in love with La Carboneria , many tourists (including some who have also been to this spot) prefer the larger, choreographed show you can pay for at other venues. With a bigger show, there are more performers, brighter colored outfits, and a stage where you can more easily see the complex footwork of flamenco.
If that’s you, definitely plan to catch a different flamenco show that matches your style, it’s such an incredible art form to experience!
TIP! There are a range of flamenco shows around Seville. Some are free, others are paid shows, and it depends from one to the next if food and/or drinks are included with the ticket price.
How many wine regions do you know that were founded as the result of a research paper?
From an unusually academic start, the Margaret River wine region of Western Australia was born. It all started with a 1966 paper by Dr. John Gladstone identifying the region as suitable for wine production (since it was similar to the Bordeaux region of France). Apparently that’s all it took for some enterprising Aussies to start planting grapes and making wine.
That is a pretty high density of the good stuff, making Margaret River one of the best Australian wine regions you could choose to visit to make the most of a wine trip in Australia. Plus, with surf beaches, rock climbing, and nature nearby, even the New York Times posed this question about Margaret River: “With Beaches, Wine, and Buzz, Is This Australia’s Next Hot Place?”
Margaret River is strategically located between two capes jutting out from Australia’s western coast, meaning sea breezes from the Indian Ocean keep the grapes in perfect growing conditions. And at approximately a three-hour drive from the city of Perth, it is close enough for a weekend trip.
While I hear most often that “Australia is far,” there are actually many parts of the world with direct flights to Perth, the nearest major city to Margaret River in Western Australia (WA).
Beside other Australian and New Zealand locales, you’ll find direct access to Perth from many major cities in Asia and the Middle East, such as Bangkok, Hong Kong, Kuala Lumpur, Singapore, Dubai, and Abu Dhabi. There are also direct flights from Johannesburg (South Africa), and as of recently, even a direct flight from London!
And there’s no better time to check out this incredible wine region.
The Basics of Australian Wine and Wine Tasting
For my first visit to the region, I had been living in Perth, Australia for almost a year and had a pretty good sense of the local wine varietals. But in case you’re less familiar, here is a bit about the types of wine you’ll see at the wineries:
White Blends
In addition to single grape varietals you likely already know, Australians love their wine blends. The blend you’ll see most commonly is of the sweeter Semillon grape with the more acidic Sauvignon Blanc. You may have tasted these two grapes together already in a Bordeaux white, but in Australia, you’ll basically see two variations:
SSB standing for Semillon Sauvignon Blanc, meaning that there is a higher percentage of Semillon in the blend.
SBS standing for Sauvignon Blanc Semillon, with a higher percentage of Sauvignon Blanc
As you might expect, the blend takes on more of the characteristics of the grape that is named first. Try lots of both and decide which you like best! (I prefer SSB.)
Shiraz
First off, spoiler – Shiraz and Syrah are exactly the same grape. But just because you know Syrah does not mean you’ll know Australian Shiraz though, only because of the many different ways it is produced. Even one Australian Shiraz to another can taste quite different, so keep an open mind and taste lots of these wines.
Red Blends
Of course you’ll see plenty of blends with Shiraz, like Cabernet Shiraz (blend with Cabernet Sauvignon) and Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre, known as a GSM blend found typically in the Rhone region of France. Interestingly, another popular blend I’ve only seen in Australia – Shiraz Viognier – with the red Shiraz grape blended with white Viognier.
And there are lots of other Cabernet blends beyond Cabernet Shiraz, although you’ll most typically see Cabernet Merlot, which is both fruity and bold.
Other Things to Know Before You Go
You’ll notice quickly in Australia that Australians (Aussies) have nicknames and abbreviations for just about everything! And wine is no exception. The shortened version you’re most likely to encounter is the Aussie nickname for Chardonnay which is the abbreviation ‘chardy’ (pronounced SHAR-dee).
Don’t bother looking for a winery’s ‘tasting room,’ as you won’t find it. Instead, seek out the ‘cellar door.’
And don’t be dissuaded by the predominance of screw-top bottles over corked wine bottles, as in Australia it is not related to the quality of the wine. Since beginning the switch to screw-top bottles around the year 2000, today around 99% of all Australian wine is bottled that way.
Now let’s get down to it – which wineries you should visit to sample some incredible Margaret River wines!
Best Wineries in Margaret River
With an area so well known for its premium wines, there are plenty of exceptional wineries that are worth a visit. All of those alphabetically listed below are wineries that I’ve visited and enjoyed enough to purchase wines – which for me is a high bar to clear!
Also, wine tasting in Australia is probably more laid back than winery visits you’ve had in other countries, with ‘cellar doors’ that are open typically every day of the week and welcoming anyone who is in the area to stop by.
All smiles exploring Margaret River wine country
Often tastings are offered for free or for a minimal fee, which will often be waived if you make any purchases during your visit. Private tastings or tours at a winery tend to be extra, and often require advance booking.
TIP! Even if you think you know a grape or a wine, it all tastes different in WA, so keep an open mind and try everything!
Varietals: Cabernet Merlot Petit Verdot, Chardonnay, Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre (GSM), Petit Verdot, Rosé, Shiraz Viognier, Verdelho, Zinfandel
Arimia Winery was a last-minute addition to my wine tasting itinerary based on a recommendation from nearby purveyor Gabriel Chocolate. You’ll see a lot of French style blends and grapes, taking advantage of Margaret River’s similarity to some parts of France. There is also a restaurant on-site which makes for a scenic and delicious meal overlooking the vineyard.
This is also possibly the spot where I bought the most wine:
This one of the oldest and also one of the best wineries in the Margaret River region, producing common grapes along with those less often seen in Australia, like Riesling. A third generation winery, Ashbrook celebrated its 40th vintage in 2018. There is great care taken with all the wine produced here, with grapes picked completely by hand, leading to a delicious final product.
This is one of my all-time favorite wineries from the region, and also one of the easiest to find represented at restaurants and wine stores outside of Australia. Which is not surprising since it holds the distinction as being one of the ‘founding five’ wineries of the region. Especially memorable wines include their SBS blend, the Cabernet Merlot Trinders blend, and the Zinfandel. Plus, the straight Cabernet Sauvignon makes for such perfect, smooth sips, it was my bottle of choice at a recent steakhouse dinner in the US.
Cape Naturaliste is one of the younger vineyards on this list, but one with consistent, quality wines. Even with the excellent quality, its wines are more affordable than some other wineries in the region, leading many of its vintages to sell out every year. Their SSB white blend is one of my favorites. The winery also aims to be in harmony with nature, hand picking grapes and applying bio-dynamic philosophies to preserving the local environment.
The fourth of the ‘founding five’ Margaret River wineries, Cullen opened the year after Cape Mentelle and has continued to evolve since then. Today it is Australian certified organic and bio-dynamic winery with fruit that is harvested by hand and an estate that is carbon-neutral and naturally powered. The wine is sophisticated and smooth, and comes in at a mix of price points, with some more affordable bottles and a few that are more exclusive – with a price to match.
One of the few Margaret River wineries that requires reservations, be sure to arrange with them in advance so you can sample their delicious wines. Offering a range of lines (at a range of price points), there are delicious wines to excite your palate, including a few sparkling ones. If you’re not sure which Aussie wine you fancy, Flying Fish Cove will help you figure it all out as you taste across their impressive varietals.
Varietals: Cabernet Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Fortified/ Late Harvest/ Muscat/ Port style dessert wines, Rosé, Shiraz
Gralyn Estate also dates from the first wave of wineries in the 1970s and today is a boutique winery known for its fine wine production. A specialty here that you don’t see at many other Margaret River wineries is the dessert wine portfolio, which ranges from late harvest wines to sweet fortified and port-style ones that I love. You may not make the splurge to buy a ton of bottles here, but it is definitely worth coming for a tasting.
I was on an organized tour my first day in Margaret River, and after not loving the first winery, the tour guide brought us here and it was exactly the type of winery I was looking for. In addition to the Aussie staples, it offers delicious bottles of Tempranillo, a Spanish grape that grows surprisingly well in Western Australia, and also beautiful whites like Riesling.
But the show-stopper for me is their Aquitane Blanc, the best SBS I have ever tasted. The blend hails from France, but with the Margaret River grapes and expert treatment by this winery, it has a je ne sais quoi that will stop you in your tracks as well.
I found this to be one of the most laid back and fun wineries for a visit, but still with incredibly high-quality wine. I like so many of the wines I can’t even pick a favorite – for me it is between their various red wines and red blends and the more delicate of their white wines, like Chardonnay and the SSB. Although the winery has only been around since the 1990s, it has been racking up awards and is renowned across Australia for the incredible wine it produces.
I keep talking about the ‘founding five’ wineries of Margaret River and this is THE ONE, the very first winery in the region. Like Leeuwin, there is also a restaurant and art gallery on site, and events that are hosted there. But of course the main attraction is the wine. It is spectacular, and I was pleasantly surprised to find some great value wines along with the pricier lines, with their red offerings as my favorites.
Voyager didn’t come onto the Margaret River wine scene until the late 1970s, but it has become one of the most established and recognizable wineries since then. Its Chenin Blanc is my favorite from the region and its other whites are some of my favorites as well.
Lunch at Voyager Estate
The on-site restaurant made for an excellent lunch when I visited, with scrumptious food beautifully displayed in a lovely space – and plenty of delicious wine to go with your meal.
Woodlands Wines became established in the Margaret River region in the early 1970s, right after the ‘founding five’ wineries. As you can see from the list above, it specializes in red wines and blends, using some of the less commonly found grapes in the region like Cabernet Franc, Malbec, and Pinot Noir, making some fabulous wines.
While the reds are great and numerous, there is one white wine that is absolutely outstanding and memorable – the ‘Chloe’ Chardonnay. It is bright golden in color and an explosion of flavor that wows you and then lingers as it shifts to some of the more subtle notes of the wine. And since it is such a small production, your best bet to taste this outstanding wine is at the Woodlands Cellar Door. Followed by buying some to take home, of course!
Tips for Wine Tasting in Margaret River
There is certainly no shortage of incredible wineries in Margaret River. To make the most of your wine tasting trip, here are a few additional tips to keep in mind:
Australian ‘drink driving’ rules are strict.
Unlike other countries where you need to be suspected of a violation before you can be subject to a sobriety test, it is routine all over Australia to set up a road-block and take a breathalyzer (or ‘breathalyser’) test of every single driver on the road. WA is so serious about breathalyzers that once I even had to take one before going on the Tunnels Tour at the Fremantle Prison in Perth.
If you do decide to drive yourself, be responsible and exercise caution. You’ll see signs around a lot of the wineries asking, “Who is the skipper?” about a designated driver.
For those who don’t speak Australian, skipper = designated driver
So take a tour!
There are several reputable and well-regarded tour operators in Margaret River, who will both drive you around to wineries and recommend excellent spots based on what you like. Many tours book up quickly (especially on weekends) so make your arrangements in advance.
I went on an excellent tour with Top Drop Tours, where the driver/guide did an excellent job tailoring that day’s itinerary to my wine preferences.
This is a lesson I first learned wine tasting in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys of California. Even besides meals, it is important to mix up mix all that wine tasting with getting food in your stomach. Two of the best places to do that in Margaret River:
Gabriel Chocolate is an award-winning chocolatier that sources cacao beans from around the world and produces a wide range of chocolates at their Margaret River factory. Get all your questions answered by the helpful staff and taste differently sourced chocolate from around the world side-by-side to get a great sense of each.
Olio Bello has been harvesting olives in the region since the 1990s and they are serious about the product they produce. Over a dozen of varieties of olives are grown, hand-picked, and cold-pressed, all right on their massive property. At their tasting room you can sample various olive oils and preserves.
Other food and activity purveyors are best located on the Margaret River regional map, helpfully marked with different icons based on whether it is a winery, art gallery, activity, and also specifying whether there is a restaurant attached for each.
There are plenty of outdoor adventures to take advantage of as well, from hiking to world-class surfing to rock climbing.
Me rock climbing right on the Indian Ocean coast in Margaret River
TIP! You’ll also be able to pick up hard copies of the map at various wineries and Margaret River attractions.
Including Australian truffle country.
The other thing you may not know about this part of Western Australia is that nearby you’ll find the most truffles of any other spot in the southern hemisphere! While you may associate truffles more typically with Italy (or France), there are actually truffles in several parts of Australia, although you’ll find the vast majority in one part of WA.
Truffle season lasts from late May until September, when you’ll have access to freshly harvested truffles to enjoy, although you can enjoy local truffle products all year long. And sometime in late June or early July – the exact timing varies from year to year – you’ll be able to enjoy the annual Truffle Kerfuffle, the local truffle festival located about a 90-minute drive from Margaret River.
And definitely stay over.
As you can see from the massive list of top wineries (which doesn’t include every spot I visited, just the best ones), I spent several days exploring the Margaret River region – and so should you! Most visitors stay either close to nature or in town. I liked staying in the town of Margaret River, with lots of restaurants in walking distance to not have to worry about driving after a day of wine tasting.
I had an exceptional few nights at the Rosewood Guesthouse, which went above and beyond to provide little touches throughout my stay. The elaborate breakfast is a great start to a day of wine tasting or outdoor activity, and there are complimentary refreshments available all day long, from tea and biscuits to complimentary port and sherry for a nightcap. The Rosewood Guesthouse will also coordinate any number of snacks, in-house massages, or tours for you, including the option of a private tour in the on-site, cream-colored 1956 Rolls Royce:
Sadly, when I visited, the Rolls Royce was all booked out for the weekend, but I still got to admire it!
This was not a sponsored accommodation of any kind, I just had a really fabulous stay at the Rosewood Guesthouse!
I had (almost) forgotten so many things that make Perth a wonderful and unique city. I lived there for just over a year, and then went for my first return trip just a few months ago. I pride myself on having an excellent memory, so it really was quite a shock to the system to realize how much of what I knew about Perth that had migrated to the outer edges of my recollections and only returned to my consciousness in force when I was experiencing the city in person again.
The thing about moving away from a city where you’ve lived is that while you take many memories with you, there are so many more memories that are so inextricably tied to a sense of place that you only recall them walking the same streets, hearing the noises of the neighborhood, and smelling the aromas you’ve left behind. It’s the reason we re-visit places from our past, and why we’re drawn in some cases to travel to the same place over and over again.
Even many Australians from east coast cities like Melbourne and Sydney have never ventured to Perth (for those of you unfamiliar with the size of Australia, it’s about the size of the continental US – taking 5 hours flying to traverse east to west), so Perth can be a bit of a mystery, even to the Aussies. Every city has its own flavor, and Perth is no different, with all its quirks.
Here are some things that stood out in my rush of memories on my recent visit, and that you should also expect when you go. Things that are “so Perth.”
#1 | Friendly People
Australians in general are a pretty friendly bunch, and people in Perth really exemplify this. You’ll notice it when you’re getting coffee or browsing in a shop, or doing any activity really. On my recent trip I went to an outdoor kickboxing class with a friend, and the friendliness of the *other* people taking the class really blew me away. Although I was not a regular and they did not know me, every time we were running laps between intervals, the Aussies were shouting “good on you” and other words of encouragement. A stark contrast to other places I’ve lived for sure.
#2 | Sunny Days
When most people picture Australia, it’s probably a sunny image, but Perth takes things to a whole new level. It’s the sunniest capital city in the world, averaging 8 hours of sunshine daily, so any visit is likely to include mostly sun-filled days. For me this also means that I usually have some sort of hat or visor with me at all times, because the Australian sunshine is H-O-T. And beware that the hole in the ozone layer above Australia is no joke. I would sometimes get a bit of color or even sunburn on my 10-minute walk to the grocery store. But if you’re anything like me, bright sunshine puts you in a good mood, so every day feels like a pleasant vacation.
#3 | Great Coffee
Anyone who’s ever been to Australia knows that there are excellent espresso-drinks nearly everywhere – in fact, it was when I was living in Perth that I became a full-fledged coffee snob. Perth is pretty laid-back overall, but they sure do take their coffee seriously, from the beans to the roast to the barista artwork. And when you’re arriving in Perth from outside Australia like I was on my recent visit, the difference is striking. Enjoy several discerning cups of coffee, and appreciate it while you can.
#4 | Beaches
Like most major settlements across Australia, Perth is basically on the coast. The Central Business District, or CBD, is a bit inland along the Swan River, but most of metropolitan Perth’s coast is along the Indian Ocean. There are several great surfing beaches easily accessible by public transportation, areas like Mettam’s Pool with world-class snorkeling right off the beach, extended sections of coast that are basically a giant playground like Hillary’s Boat Harbour, and plenty of bars and restaurants up and down the coastline. Beaches are so loved by locals I even had co-workers on adjusted work schedules so they could head to the beach before or after work EVERY DAY.
#5 | Wind
People in Perth always told me that it was the 1st sunniest capital city in the world and the 3rd windiest. I’m not sure how accurate the windiest claim is, but the takeaway is that Perth can be quite shockingly windy. Somehow the grid of the CBD lines up with the typical wind currents, so you’ll experience some pretty strong wind gusts in the streets of downtown. It also tends to get more windy as the day goes on, so people in the know head to the beaches in the morning hours, before the windiest part of the day sets in.
#6 | Kangaroos
You don’t need to go to a wildlife park or zoo to get a glimpse of a kangaroo – there are plenty of wild kangaroos hanging out in and around Perth. Not far (and walkable!) from the CBD is Heirisson Island, with an area open to the public with wild kangaroos, in full view of the downtown skyscrapers. There are also quite a few wild kangaroos that hang out and play in Yanchep National Park, north of the city. When I was at Yanchep there were some kangaroos fighting – remember that kangaroos are powerful animals and don’t get too close in the wild, they have a fierce kick when balanced on their tail! Still very cool that kangaroos are just hanging around in many places throughout the city, especially at dusk.
#7 | Rainbows
For a place as sunny as Perth, rainbows are not something you would expect with great frequency. But there is just something about the weather patterns (and possibly how quickly the sun reappears after rainfall?) that makes huge arcs of color a common sight. Living there, I remember being very excited the first time I saw a rainbow, and immediately snapped a picture. A few days later, I felt like the luckiest rainbow-spotter ever, and took another photo. Not long after, I realized how often rainbows would appear, although that didn’t make them any less beautiful. I probably took more rainbow pictures in my one year living there than everywhere else I’ve ever visited combined!
#8 | Crazy Costs
Australia is a giant island, so many things have to be brought in from overseas, and are priced accordingly. Perth is so isolated – even from the rest of Australia – that prices can even be a bit higher than in other parts of Oz. The good news is that while the prices look exorbitant, for many nationalities coming from abroad, the currency exchange rate is way more favorable now than before. For example, when I lived there 5 years ago, the Australian dollar and US dollar were basically at parity, US$1 = AUD$1. Now an Australian dollar only costs about 75 US cents. My strategy on my last trip was to think about paying in US dollars or Euro, and then I had a very pleasant surprise when I saw the actual charges on my credit card bill =)
#9 | Wine Country
Did you know that Western Australia produces a disproportionally large percentage of Australia’s premium wines? While the most famous region is Margaret River, about a 3-hour drive south of Perth, don’t worry if you don’t have enough time to make that trek. Because there is also a wonderful wine region that is right off of the Perth metro, called Swan Valley, not far from the city center. It’s an easy drive to get there from Perth by car or metro, you can rent bikes and ride around the 32-kilometer loop that links many of the area wineries, or sign up for one of the many food and wine tours of the area. It’s the oldest wine region in Western Australia, and the area now boasts breweries, distilleries, and many excellent purveyors of culinary products – from coffee to honey to lavender.
There are lots of birds all over Perth, but those you’re likely to encounter are the swans, the ravens, and the magpies.
To See: Perth was settled around the Swan River, and you can guess how the river got its name! Especially along the bike and walking paths along the river’s edge in the CBD, you’ll come across both white and black swans, just a short stroll from the heart of the city. While they are beautiful, keep your distance as swans are not the nicest of animals.
To Hear: You’ll hear the ravens before you see them, and as you listen to their repetitive, whiny caw, you’ll wonder how a bird could possibly make such an unpleasant noise. The birds tend to be black and either up in a tree or hopping around along the ground, as long as no people have approached too closely. I had nearly forgotten all about their existence until the first time I heard their distinctive call during my recent trip. There is a lot of green space throughout the city of Perth, so there are plenty of trees where the birds like to nest, and you’ll hear them if you’re walking anywhere in the vicinity.
To Avoid:
Magpies, innocuous-looking black and white birds, can pose quite a danger when defending their urban nesting areas. You’ll need to be cautious during their ‘swooping season’ in September and October, when they can actually cause real damage to humans, especially cyclists. If you’ll be around Perth then, familiarize yourself with tips on staying safe. There is a good overview of what to do and not to do from Australia’s LifeHacker site here.
#11 | Bustling Downtown
Lots of cities have a bustling downtown, but the city of Perth makes it even easier to navigate – for free! There is actually a Free Tansit Zone (FTZ) that encompasses the major swath of downtown. All of the bus lines that cross through the CBD are free so long as you board and leave within the boundaries of the FTZ. There are also several CAT lines (red, blue, yellow, & green) for ‘Central Area Transit’ that loop through the downtown area – and even a bit beyond – that are completely free to ride. This means that during lunchtime on a weekday, local workers don’t typically restrict themselves to the immediate vicinity of their office building, but can be seen riding the buses to hit up the best restaurants for a delicious lunch, all within the time constraints of their lunch break – and for free.
#12 | Fireworks
When I lived in Perth, the first time I was sitting on the couch on a Tuesday evening and heard the explosive noise, I was alarmed and had to take a moment to think. My New Yorker sensibilities suggested that it might be a gunshot or explosion, but then I realized that not only is Australia (and Perth in particular) incredibly safe, but almost nobody owns a gun due to its strict laws. My next thought – could it be fireworks? I rushed out to the balcony to take a look and was delighted to discover a colorful display taking place over the Swan River. Little did I know when choosing an apartment that its view would offer front-row seating for the ridiculously frequent fireworks displays. Fireworks displays happen so often in Perth there’s even a blog dedicated to just that – Why are there fireworks in Perth tonight? So yes, when you visit, if you’re downtown in the early evening, you’ll probably see fireworks. Look up and enjoy the show!
As you can tell, I loved Perth and found it such an interesting place to be able to live. And recently, to come back as a visitor. While Australia if far from many places, it’s quite close to Asia, and a great place to pop into when you’re nearby or set as a destination for a longer trip.
Anything I missed about Perth? Any things that are also “so typical” about where you live? Share in the Comments below!
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