How to Spend One Day in Bergamo, Italy

September 26, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Imagine a raised plateau, like one of the mesas of the American southwest or Uluru (formerly Ayer’s Rock) in central Australia. Usually you’ll encounter a formation like this out in nature.

But in northern Italy’s town of Bergamo, there is a large plateau with a UNESCO World Heritage old town perched at the top, surrounded by modern Bergamo, Italy.

It is this division that makes Bergamo unique, split into the historical, raised Città Alta with its meandering pedestrian cobblestone walkways and the lower Città Bassa with a bustling, modern city.

Bergamo is so close to Milan that it houses one of the three airports of the metropolitan area, and is easily reached by car or train in around an hour (more details in the ‘Getting There‘ section below).

The upper city has incredible charm and a quite lengthy history, with all of its attractions close to one another in easy walking distance, making it an ideal destination for a day trip.

Here’s how to make the most of a one-day visit:

Around Town

Don’t be overwhelmed by the number of items listed below as sights to see. Bergamo is a town made for wandering, and the Città Alta is so compact that you can easily stroll between everywhere I’ve listed at a pretty leisurely pace.

Piazza Vecchia

The Piazza Vecchia, or old square, is the central space in Bergamo’s Città Alta, with many of Bergamo’s sights either on the square or nearby. It is a gathering place that is especially lively on weekends, with many visitors and street performers clustered all around.

Palazzo della Ragione

Right on the Piazza, this regional palace served many functions over many centuries, and has exhibitions that rotate seasonally.

My favorite spot is underneath the open archways at street level, where there is a centuries-old sundial, that still marks the passing seasons. At noon daily, the sun will still meet the mark on the ground corresponding to the month and day.

Campanone Civic Tower

If you’ve been reading the blog for a bit, by now you’ve probably picked up on the fact that I both like to climb things and also enjoy an expansive view in a new place.

Ascending this Civic Tower (by elevator or on foot) gives you the highest perspective you’ll get on the already high up Città Alta, getting a sense for the overall layout of the small area and providing some pretty fabulous glimpses of the surrounding countryside.

Basilica di Santa Maria Maggiore

Just a quick glance at the outside of this stunning Basilica gives an inkling of the treasures that must be contained within its walls. Leave some time to go inside and explore, as you can easily get lost in the many works of art.

Baptistery

There is also the nearby ornate Baptistery, or Battistero, where babies would be baptized before being allowed into the main church.

Originally built inside the Basilica, it has now been relocated and is officially part of the Cathedral.

Duomo (Cathedral)

Pretty much every town in Italy has a main cathedral, and Bergamo is no exception. While beautiful, most visitors find it overshadowed by the Basilica, and will spend more of their time there.

Off the Beaten Path

There is plenty of wandering to be done on foot around the Città Alta, which I recommend leaving time to do. As you stroll, here are two spots of particular interest:

Convent of San Francisco

This ex-convent is a quiet spot away from most tourists with a lovely inner courtyard and a great view over the surrounding Città Bassa down below.

The complex also houses the History Museum of Bergamo, which I didn’t visit, although I loved strolling along the grounds despite my expression in the shot below.

Venetian Walls

What good is having a city on an elevated plateau without some defenses?

For over three centuries Bergamo was part of Venice’s extended empire, hence the aptly named Venetian walls. Yes, the walls are old, but really I love exploring any old city walls – not just for the history they represent, but also for the great views!

Best Bites

Città Alta

Ristorante Trattoria Bernabo

Although there are several higher-end restaurants scattered across Bergamo’s Città Alta, I’m all about down home cooking of the region when it comes to Italian food.

This restaurant not only has wood seating and décor that speak to the city’s history, but delivers basic, humble, and delicious local cuisine to satisfy your hunger and nourish your soul. It’s an especially great spot for lunch, with daily set menus and specials.

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

Although this spot is located right on the Piazza Vecchia, the main square, it hits that perfect balance between intense, pure flavor of the ingredient and creamy texture that I look for in a gelato.

Their fruit flavors are particularly delicious, with very concentrated flavor, and this ranks as one of the favorite gelato spots after three years of living in Italy (and much gelato consumption, trust me).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s also lovely to grab a drink anywhere there is outdoor seating, there are several spots with beautiful views around the Città Alta where you can linger and enjoy.

Città Bassa

Taverna Valtellinese

I once drove from Milan to Bergamo just for a few hours to meet someone for dinner. It seemed like a hassle to go up to the Città Alta just to eat (although that would have been very possible as well), so I found this gem in the Città Bassa, the lower, more modern part of the city.

The cuisine hails from the Valtellina region almost due north of Bergamo, although there are some general items you’d see on any Italian menu as well.

The highlight was the carne al bastone, a two-foot long stick of white ash tree with beef wrapped around it, cooked, and then served on the stick! I think I was so enthralled I completely failed at any picture-taking, but trust me, it’s a sight to be seen – check it out on the left plate in this photo here.

Getting There

Arriving in Bergamo

Orio al Serio Airport

As I mentioned before, one of Milan’s 3 major airports is located in Bergamo, and principally serves low-cost carriers like Ryanair. You can also arrive at Bergamo’s airport by transfer from other Milan-area airports.

From the Bergamo airport, there is a bus transfer that will take you to the center of town, and there are of course taxis as well.

Bus/Train

Other than arriving by bus from the airport (see above), the easiest way from the city of Milan to Bergamo is by train. You can check schedules and fares on the TrenItalia English website.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There are multiple train stations in Milan. Be sure to check which one you’re departing from, although you can search for all options at once on the TrenItalia website by selecting “Milano (tutte le stazioni).”

Driving

Driving was my most frequent method of arriving in Bergamo, which is right off the major east-west highway in norther Italy that runs between Turin and Venice.

There are ample parking lots in the center of Bergamo’s Città Bassa (lower city), with several well-signed garages that you’ll find by a blue sign with the letter P.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Thorough instructions on How to Get to Bergamo by all the methods listed above.

Going up to the Città Alta

All of the ways listed above will get you to the Città Bassa, but if you want to get to the historical Città Alta, there are two main methods of arriving:

Funicular

The funicular, a tram up the steep slope connecting the Città Bassa to the Città Alta, is the main way to arrive for most visitors.

You can check out the timetable at the Funicular link above (it is Funicular C at the bottom of the page), but it runs so often, just go to the station and buy your ticket when you arrive.

Walking

The less-frequented path along a few streets is a bit steep, but worth meandering along for the lovely views along the way.

While facing the funicular station, start ascending to your right and follow the street until it ends and winds around to the left. It’s a little over a kilometer to the city gate, and will probably take around 20 minutes to arrive at the Città Alta entrance:

However you decide to structure (or not structure) your exploring, the town of Bergamo is an incredibly fun day trip with quite unique views as you see and stroll the two levels of the city.

One I liked so much I returned to again and again during my time living in Milan!

Have you been to Bergamo? Any spots you enjoyed that didn’t make my list? Any other questions about making the trip? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

Enjoyed this post? ‘Pin it’ to share on Pinterest & save for later!

How to Spend One Day in Nassau, Bahamas

August 8, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

The town of Nassau, Bahamas is probably best known for its famous hotels and luxury offerings in proximity to the cruise port. Like anywhere though, there is the veneer on display in immediate proximity of tourists, and the parts of the city locals typically frequent.

I love to stroll around a new place and just get a feel for the area, the architecture, and do some people watching to see how locals interact.

In Nassau it was striking how much of the general decay of the city was visible just walking a block or two away from the main stretch of downtown.

I saw a bit of trash lying around, which honestly I found reminiscent of Naples, Italy, a city with a lot of grit and character that is part of its charm.

For me, I appreciated seeing what felt like a more authentic side of the city, from haphazard wiring on telephone poles to billboards addressing STD prevention (Bahamas has one of the highest AIDS infection rates in the Caribbean). Alongside some of these grittier sections though were flowers in bloom and lush greenery, alongside beautifully colorful buildings.

An interesting city for a day of exploring for sure!

Things to Do

Parliament Square

Just a few blocks from the water’s edge lies the colorful colonial buildings dating from the early 1800s that house the Parliament of the Bahamas in Nassau, the capital for all of the islands that make up this Caribbean nation.

Although still part of the British Commonwealth, the Bahamas became independent in the 1970s, and the decorations you see are celebrating the 44^th anniversary of independence.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal)

Nassau Public Library

The octagonal Library building is the same lovely pale pink you’ll see on buildings all around town. It was originally used as a colonial jail, and while the ground level now operates as the library, the second floor is a museum tracing the building’s history.

Unfortunately the museum upstairs is currently closed, but it’s worth popping in since it’s so close to downtown and other attractions.

Queen’s Staircase

This 65-step staircase was carved out by slaves in the 1790s as a way to connect the nearby fort to the city. Slavery finally ended under the British Empire under Queen Victoria, so it was later re-named the Queen’s Staircase.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Use the nearby water tower as a landmark to navigate toward them from the city, which is about a 10-15 minute walk from the cruise terminal if you arrive by ship.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! You may find someone giving an oral history of the area when you arrive. Me and the group of friends from the cruise ship enjoyed listening and left a small tip, althogh that is at your discretion.

Fort Fincastle

Once you climb the Queen’s Staircase, you’ll find Fort Fincastle nearby by looping around to your right.

The Fort itself has a few rooms with explanatory signs and some cannons, but the real reason to enter is to see the panoramic view of the city in all directions from the lookout point. It was intended to protect the nearby harbor, but was never used for that purpose, and later became a lighthouse.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There are lots of people begging for change and hawking souvenirs in this area, be prepared.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Admission to the Fort can be paid in US dollars. Bring small US change, including coins, if you can – one ticket when I visited was US$1.08, including tax.

Shopping

If you’ve ever taken a cruise before, you know that most cruise ports have plenty of shopping in close proximity, and Nassau, Bahamas is no exception.

There are tons of purveyors offering the typical range of souvenirs from t-shirts to knick knacks to local hot sauce, as well as lots of high-end jewelry and other duty-free items.

If you arrive on a cruise, you’ll probably get a shopping guide on the ship, otherwise your hotel or resort will certainly be able to point you in the right direction.

Best Bites & Sips – Where to Eat & Drink

Pirate Republic Brewing Company

Right in downtown Nassau, the Pirate Republic Brewing Company had my favorite craft beer of the trip, and touts itself as the first and only craft brewery in the Bahamas.

Don’t let their touristy location fool you, there is some serious brewing going on here, with a hefty dose of creativity, especially with the seasonal brews. The food also gets rave reviews although the kitchen closes mid-afternoon, so I was too late to sample anything.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re visiting on a cruise ship like I was, there’s no need to do the beer tasting excursion as it’s a short walk to this gem.

Lukka Kairi

Most people walk right past this local Bahamian spot to go to the nearby Señor Frogs, but that is a mistake.

Overlooking the water, Lukka Kairi is a peaceful spot to enjoy local cocktails and serves up the best conch fritters I’ve ever had! Other dishes pack an equally flavorful punch, with a perfect Caribbean balance of spice and flavor.

Certainly there are plenty of water and land activities all around the island, but if you’re in downtown Nassau, Bahamas, there is plenty easily accessible by foot in a small area for a day of exploring. And certainly the downtown area is a hub for shopping for anything you might want to bring home with you.

I enjoyed Nassau for getting a taste of the local history and culture, including some delicious food and drink along the way.

Have you been to Nassau, Bahamas? Any other activities you’d recommend for a day there? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below if there’s anything I should add to this list!

Enjoyed this post? ‘Pin it’ to share on Pinterest & save for later!

Cefalù: Perfect Day Trip from Palermo, Sicily

June 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

Palermo, Sicily makes for a great weekend trip, and there are also great spots around the city that you can easily fit into your trip (like Cefalù) especially if you make your visit a long weekend.

I’m so glad that my friend Isabel and I planned for an extra day, which let us enjoy one of my favorite formats for 3-day weekend trips – a city day on each end with the middle day to spend outdoors or doing something active.

Visiting Cefalù involved an active morning followed by a relaxing afternoon swimming and lounging on the beach – and we were still able to be back to Palermo easily in time for dinner. And the hiking, the beach, and the sights in town and in the hills above Cefalù were all quite memorable.

Here’s what we loved doing on this day trip from Palermo:

Things to Do

Around Town

Cefalù Cathedral

The building itself is distinctive, and it looks like a cross between a fortress and a church, with some very unusual architecture. Once you go inside, the interior is like a traditional church, with some beautiful artwork.

A visit doesn’t take long, so it’s worth stopping in even if you only have a few minutes.

Beach

After hiking up and down a mountain on a hot day, there’s nothing I like to do more than head to the beach and take a dip.

Cefalù’s beach is easily accessible from the center, and not far from where the hike lets you off in town. And since Sicily is further south than other parts of Italy, it was pleasant swimming weather and a refreshing water temperature already in mid-late June when I visited.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There is a fair bit of beachfront, so walk a bit if needed to find a good spot. There are also many areas with lounge chairs that you can rent, so find one with spots available.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re lucky like we were, people will be walking up and down the beach offering massages at discount prices. Especially if you’ve been hiking, it’s a great way to relax tired muscles.

Shopping

Cefalù is enough of a tourist destination in summer that there are many shops lining its medieval cobblestone streets.

All sorts of Sicilian specialties are available, from the traditional blue and yellow tiles to culinary specialties like pistachio pesto and local wine. It’s a great spot to pick up some souvenirs.

Off the Beaten Path

Hike to La Rocca & Temple of Diana

Besides the beach, this hike above town was the main reason we visited. It is steep enough to have beautiful views at the top, but overall it was not too strenuous, taking around a half hour to reach the top.

Once you ascend, there are spread out ruins and sweeping views of the coast to appreciate as you linger as long as you like.

Where to Eat – Best Bites

Non Solo Pane

This is a great spot to pick up bites to go before (or after) your hike, as it has a lot of portable food and is located near the bottom of the stairs that take you to and from the first section of hiking.

I grabbed some of Sicily’s most portable food – arrancini – stuffed rice balls with different fillings, which are then coated in bread crumbs and fried. There is a reason this dish is a local one!

Ristorante Helios

There are savory food options as well, but I can only vouch for the pastries, which were a delicious snack. And let’s be real, the rest was breakfast the next morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Get at least one item with pistachios, which are grown locally in Sicily. You can taste the freshness and flavor of the nut so well.

Obviously with the morning hike and food on-the-go I didn’t end up having any sit-down meals, but there are quite a lot of highly-rated restaurants around town, especially for seafood.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re looking for an Italian seal of approval, I find Google reviews to be more accurate for places in Italy since locals are more likely to review a restaurant there than on one of the other review websites.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Come by train

Trains run very frequently from Palermo and along the coast in between, and it only takes a little less than an hour to arrive. Unless you’re already renting a car for a road trip around Sicily, the train is the most convenient way to get to Cefalù, and the ride from Palermo is quite scenic.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Check the schedule ahead of time for your return trip to Palermo, so you have a sense of what your options are.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! It’s not unusual for trains to run late in Italy, so leave a bit of extra time if there’s a specific time you need to be back in Palermo.

Avoid August (if you can)

August is peak travel time across Europe, and you’ll have a far more crowded experience if you visit then.

I had a great visit to Palermo and Cefalù in late June – it was warm enough to swim and shops and restaurants were open, but it wasn’t super busy with tourists yet.

Are there any sights around Cefalù that I missed? What other trips from Palermo or around Sicily would you recommend?

Like this post? ‘Pin It’ for later on Pinterest!

How to Spend One Day in Mainz, Germany

February 16, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

Tons of people each year end up with a layover in Frankfurt, and many opt to stay the night, but most probably make it to this gem – the city of Mainz, which is on the Frankfurt metro system. I didn’t even know Mainz existed, except perhaps an obscure reference in my high school history class a long time ago. But when I saw pictures of a fellow expat friend (thanks, Lisa!) taking a trip there to see the Chagall Windows of one of the churches, I knew I had to make a stop during my next visit to Frankfurt.

I had originally planned to go to Mainz for just a couple of hours in the morning, but was having such a wonderful time I ended up spending the entire day! And Mainz also had one of the most beautiful things I saw all of last year, which you can read more about in my Thanksgiving post here.

My visit to Mainz occurred almost exactly a year ago – in the dead of winter. My top 2 highlights? the Chagall Windows at St. Stephan’s Church & the Gutenberg Museum, seeing multiple Gutenberg Bibles.

If Mainz absolutely charmed me in the coldest weather of the year, you’ll love it whenever you are able to go!

Things to Do

Around Town

Gutenberg Museum

If you know your history, you’ll recall that Johannes Gutenberg invented the printing press in the mid-1400s, which was revolutionary in allowing for the mass printing of books and pamphlets, spreading knowledge and improving literacy across all social classes. Although the machine was a feat of engineering, printing in those days was part art, part science, and Gutenberg’s printing of the Bible (and many other books and pamphlets) created some of the world’s most prized possessions. You’ll catch all of the relevant history at the museum, but be sure to time your visit to catch one of the printing press demonstrations by the friendly staff and also leave enough time to savor the beauty of the original Gutenberg Bibles on display. I couldn’t help but stand there awestruck, and visited the room with the Bibles again and again as I walked through different floors of the museum. Seeing the Gutenberg Bibles was one of my absolute highlights of all of 2016 – and that’s saying a lot!

Mainz Cathedral (Mainzer Dom)

Located in the central pedestrian area, this Cathedral has been around for over 1,000 years, and its history can be traced in the different architectural styles of the building and adornments. Take your time strolling through to appreciate the details of the artistry and history displayed throughout, and be sure to visit the outdoor courtyard.

Market Square (Marktplatz)

Surrounding many of these ‘Around Town’ attractions is the market square, part of the broader pedestrian plazas and streets. Even when not en route to or from one of the attractions, take the time to wander the old part of the city and join the daily rhythm of the locals.

St. Augustine’s Church (Augustinerkirche)

Not far from the Mainz Cathedral – and a few hundred years younger – the Augustinerkirche has a very different feel. The interior decorations here are quite elaborate and include many gold accents typical of the Baroque style, and is beautiful in its own right.

Off the Beaten Path

Citadel (Zitadelle)

The Citadel is an entire complex, originally an abbey and later a fortress, and has a lot of trails to stroll around. Housed on site is also the Historical Museum of Mainz and from April until October you can even take tours a couple of days a week that take you on and to the underground areas of the Citadel.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While the main website linked above is in German, if you scroll to the bottom of the homepage there is an option to switch your browsing language to English.

Synagogue, Synagogenplatz

Built less than a decade ago, the new synagogue of Mainz serves a local Jewish community nearly 1,000 people strong. The building is striking from the outside – seemingly an abstract, modernist creation – but in reality comprised of the hebrew letters for kedusha, holiness. In a moment of travel serendipity, one of the staff peeked out while I was photographing the synagogue’s exterior (as you can see in the photo above!) and was kind enough to let me in and join a tour that was in progress, so I got to view the synagogue’s stunning interior as well. Although picture-taking of the sanctuary was not allowed, you can see the incredible features of the building on the architect’s website here. The synagogue was the spot I visited that was farthest from the historical center, but local trams will get you there easily (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below).

Old Synagogue

The previous synagogue of Mainz no longer stands, however there is a plaque commemorating its location. Originally constructed in 1878, it was damaged during Kristallnacht in 1938 and then destroyed in 1942 by bombings during World War II. Above you can see the rendering of what it looked like before it was destroyed, a model that was on display at the new Synagogue when I visited.

Roman Theater

There is not a ton to see, although it is an interesting juxtaposition to have the ancient Roman Theater abutting the modern train station. Since you’re likely to arrive in Mainz right nearby (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below), it’s worth the short stroll from the train station to check it out.

Chagall Windows St Stephan 20160122_115617

St. Stephan’s Church

People make a special journey to this church (and even the city of Mainz) for one thing – the blue Chagall windows. Notable as the only German church that the Jewish artist Marc Chagall designed for, his signature stained glass windows are even more breathtaking in person. The church is located a bit away from the most central part of town, but is another one of the absolute highlights of my visit to Mainz, and probably the #1 attraction for most tourists. Be sure to make this a priority during your time in Mainz!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The main Mainz website offers itineraries for a variety of self-guided city walks, to help you logically navigate the different sights that interest you most.

Best Bites

Eisgrub-Bräu

The oldest brewery in Mainz, this is a great spot to grab a beer and sample some delicious, traditional German food. The brewing takes place on site, so you’ll see the giant tanks inside the restaurant, maturing the several different types of in-house brews. The restaurant is a short stroll from the central pedestrian area – just far enough away that it was completely packed with locals when I went. I was on my own, but if you’re in a group (or really ambitious) you can order the giant cylinder with over 2 liters of beer!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! This restaurant is open for weekday lunch, while many restaurants in town are only open for dinner during the week. Anywhere you’re planning to eat, be sure to check the operating hours ahead of time.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Coming from anywhere on the Frankfurt metro, a day pass is a great, economical option. And if you get a train pass, it’s also valid for transportation within the city of Mainz. There is an extensive tram system that takes you between different parts of town, saving you some walking and quite helpful in bad (or cold) weather.

Also, there are multiple train stops in Mainz. For access to the historical center and quaint pedestrian areas, you’ll want to travel to the S-bahn stop by the Roman Theater: Mainz Römisches Theater.

For me Mainz really over-delivered, with the Gutenberg Bibles being the absolute highlight that I couldn’t get enough of, but by no stretch the only amazing and beautiful thing I saw during my day there.

What’s your favorite part about Mainz? Any other tips for a visit? And what was the last city that wowed you unexpectedly? Share away in the Comments!

How to Spend One Day - 24 hours - in Mainz Germany

Top 9 Things to do in the Le Marche region of Italy

May 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 15 comments

East of Tuscany on the Adriatic coast is one of Italy’s lesser-known regions, Le Marche, where you can avoid the tourist hordes and enjoy some pretty incredible Italian experiences and cuisine.

I’ve visited many times, for relaxing long weekends and outdoor adventure, for wine tasting and relaxing on the beach, for hiking and exploring walled cities. The region of Le Marche is probably a destination where you’ll want to rent a car (and you can check out my Best Tips for European Road Trips), but you’ll be so glad to have the flexibility to explore off the main train line along the coast.

You may never have heard of Le Marche before – and travel guidebooks don’t help much – so I’ve compiled a list of the top things to do while you’re there. And once you’ve mapped out the attractions you’ll want to visit, I recommend finding a nearby guesthouse to stay, where you can chat with the owner for some insider information on the area and have an even better experience.

Top Things to Do

Relax on the Beach

Le Marche is a coastal region, with its eastern border along the Adriatic Sea, so there is no shortage of beaches for swimming, suntanning, and relaxing.

If you’ve been to Croatia you know that Adriatic beaches tend to have pebbles instead of sand, and Le Marche is the same for the most part. Which is why Senigallia is a popular beach destination, as one of the only sandy beaches in the region.

The other main attraction in terms of Le Marche beaches is the Conero Riviera, south of the regional capital of Ancona, with some absolutely stunning coastline.

Several of the beaches can be accessed on foot or at least closely approached in a car. One exception is the lovely Due Sorelle (two sisters) beach, only accessible by boat from Numara, and usually a less crowded spot to enjoy the sea.

Eat: Savor Local Specialties.

I’m no expert on Marchegiana cuisine, and like all over Italy it varies from town to town, but Marche like other parts of Italy is known for its regional food specialties.

Probably the most well-known across Italy are the beloved olive ascolane, which are olives stuffed with a ground pork mixture, then breaded and fried.

Less likely to find in other parts of Italy are some of the primi, or first courses. Vincisgrassi is a local variation on lasagna, usually baked with chicken livers, and you’ll often seen passatelli pasta featured on menus, made by passing a breadcrumb dough through a shaper until it emerges in the shape of spaghetti.

Various sausages and game dishes are also common, as is brodetto, a fish stew made traditionally with 13 types of fish and seafood, to represent the number of people at the Last Supper. Whatever corner of Le Marche you find yourself in, one thing is guaranteed – you’ll eat well!

Caves & Undergrounds

Basically, there are lots of caves and undergrounds all over Le Marche. As long as you’re not scared of enclosed spaces, there are some great spots to check out:

Frasassi Caves. The largest cave system in Europe, these are a must-visit spot if you’re in Le Marche! The claim to fame here is that the initial chamber of the Frasassi Caves is so large that the Duomo di Milano, Milan’s Cathedral, could fit completely inside. There is a long, meandering path you’ll follow if you take basic tour (guides are mandatory for a visit) or if like me, you’re a bit more adventurous, there are 2 spelunking tours through these natural caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Although no pictures allowed =(I love going behind the scenes, so signed up for one of the “Speleo-Adventure” tours, and had a blast. You’ll change into coveralls and tall rubber boots, because you’ll get quite muddy along the way. And do ask ahead of time about language. My tour was in Italian (and fortunately my Italian is quite good), but if you don’t speak the language, be sure there’s someone who can relay safety instructions to you in English before you book.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While you’re there, it’s a short car ride or a reasonable stroll from the entrance to the Frassasi caves to the parking lot where a leisurely path starts up the mountain and brings you to the Temple of Valadier, a church inside of a cave!

Camerano. Not nearly to the scale of Frasassi, and a bit different since this cave system is man-made, there is an excellent tour available in English that will take you through the passageways. At different points in time there were spaces used for religious worship, wine-making, and as a shelter during wartime. An incredibly interesting spot to check out if you’re nearby.

Wine Tasting

This is Italy, so of course there are incredible wines to sample. They are made from grapes local to the region, and meant to pair well with the local cuisine. This is just how Italy rolls.

The wines you’re most likely to encounter on a Le Marche menu are the Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno – two basic, local reds – and the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a mineral-rich white wine meant to pair well with local fish and seafood dishes.

Antica Cantina Sant'Amico in Morra d'Alba — Antica Cantina Sant’Amico in Morra d’Alba

An absolute favorite though is the relatively unknown appellation of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, A red wine made from lacrima grapes in (yep, you guessed it) the town of Morro d’Alba, this usually young red is very particular in taste, so you’ll probably love it or hate it. It is fruity and aromatic, while fairly dry.

The wine can vary greatly from year to year, so enjoy a tasting and then decide what to buy if you visit a winery. Otherwise, you’ll definitely see it on restaurant wine lists around the region.

Explore Walled Cities

A function of the rolling hills of Le Marche, the region is dotted with walled cities who built the structures as a means of defense. Today they are picturesque spots to visit, usually with an Old Town of centuries-old buildings and cobblestone streets inside.

My favorites:

Urbino. Urbino is definitely the largest walled city on this list, with the most to see inside. It is the birthplace of renowned artist (and Ninja Turtle) Raphael, and has quite a few museums and a Cathedral inside. It is well-lit in the evening, and has many winding cobblestone streets and various lookout points to see the surrounding countryside.
Gradara. Much smaller than Urbino, Gradadara is known for its castle, which you can explore along with strolling on the city walls. Supposedly packed in summer, my friend and I had a pretty solitary visit in September, enjoying the beautiful views of the countryside and the views inside this hilly town.
Corinaldo. Very teeny, Corinaldo packs in all you need from one of Le Marche’s walled cities. It has cobblestone streets, great views of the surrounding area, and delicious food. It also has 2 quirky claims to fame – a polenta well that according to legend fed the city during a siege & also a house with just a facade, built by a heavy-drinking father to send pictures to his son overseas that the money being sent home was being put to good use. Now there’s a plaque to mark the spot.
The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

Take a Hike

There are a number of hikes throughout the region, but the main hiking destination in Le Marche is Monti Sibillini National Park. There are several biking and hiking itineraries available, including a vast loop that will take multiple days to complete. If you’re interested in a multi-day trip, there are accommodations available along the way.

Visit the Acqualagna Truffle Festival

The Alba Truffle Festival in Piedmont in northern Italy may be more famous, but Le Marche’s own fall Truffle Festival in Acqualagna has the same renowned white truffles and is definitely less crowded and easier to explore.

There are outdoor stands with various vendors of truffle products and whole white truffles for sale. There is also a large indoor area, selling nearly everything under the sun.

And since it’s the season of truffle, whatever restaurants you visit in the area in the October/November timeframe will have plenty of dishes with white truffle shaved over top.

No Italian event centered around food would be complete without wine as an accompaniment, so the festival also has wineries represented in various booths, and a whole stand just for wine tasting, with bottles from around the region.

Even if you’re not there in fall, there are two Acqualagna black truffle festivals, one in February and the other in August (although I don’t recommend an August visit to Le Marche, see the ‘When to Go’ section below).

READ MORE: How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

Go Skydiving

You probably don’t associate Italy with skydiving, but the region of Le Marche specifically is known for being a great spot for it. It even made #8 on this list of top skydiving sites in the world!

On my first trip to Le Marche, several of the other people in the traveling group went skydiving for the first time in Le Marche and absolutely loved it. Whether it would be your first time doing it, or you have a lot of jumps under your belt, Le Marche is THE PLACE to skydive.

Inhale the Aroma of Sunflowers

Even if you didn’t know that sunflower fields abound in Le Marche before your trip, any road trip in the region at the right time of year will inevitably drive past lovely yellow expanses.

Sunflowers typically bloom in early summer, with the exact dates depending on the weather conditions that year. If you love flowers, or sunflowers in particular, you can see beautiful fields of them all over Le Marche.

When to Go

There are lot of great times during the year to visit Le Marche. What will be best for you of course, all depends on which activities appeal to you most:

Sunflowers are typically in peak bloom in late June through July.
The Acqualagna Truffle Festival typically takes place in late October and early November.
Fall and spring are probably the most comfortable seasons for hiking.
And of course the beach will be most pleasant in summer, and less crowded before and after.

I visited in early July when I saw sunflowers, I did a road trip to walled cities and caves around Le Marche last September, and I went to the Acqualagna truffle festival and nearby towns in early November. All wonderful trips =)

The only thing I would caution against is visiting in August. Pretty much all Italians (as well as other Europeans) take vacation then, so the beaches and attractions are likely to be packed.

And for me, a big part of the appeal of visiting Le Marche is heading to a destination *without* the crowds.

The diversity of activities to do in Le Marche is quite amazing, and even if you’re looking for a relaxed itinerary, there are plenty of places to kick up your heels and enjoy the countryside or the coast. Just like most of my all-time favorite destinations, there are a lot of varied activities available and beautiful scenery along the way.

Have you been to Le Marche? Any things to do that I missed and should add? What activities are most likely to draw you to visit a new place?

Like this post? ‘Pin it’ on Pinterest!

Foodie Bucket List: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

June 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 22 comments

Belize is a bit of a melting pot, with its food representing many different influences, all delicious.

The varied cuisine in Belize is no surprise, given that it is located at a crossroads between Central America, Mexico, and the Caribbean. There are also Mayan influences dating back thousands of years, seen in the many Belizean dishes based around corn tortillas and beans.

Before visiting, I spent a bit of time researching and compiling a list of local dishes that are typical to Belize, and my mouth was watering before I even got on the plane.

Some of them may sound familiar from similar Mexican or Caribbean dishes, served with a Belizean spin.

What’s nice about Belize is that most of these dishes are widely available, especially those served by the ubiquitous street food vendors. You won’t have to venture far to sample a particular food or struggle to locate the one restaurant in town serving a specific dish, like I’ve done in other places I’ve visited.

It will also be easy to converse with your restaurant server or street vendor if you have any questions about a dish or its ingredients, since Belize’s official language in English.

It’s very easy to navigate your culinary experiences, one of the many reasons I found it such an easy place to travel.

READ MORE: 9 Reasons Belize Should Be Your Next Travel Destination

Belize also has international influences of course, with some high-end restaurants boasting French and Italian influences.

For me though, with my limited time visiting, I was happy to stick to the local specialties.

And with the ease of conversing in English with everyone, I even got a few cooking tips for replicating Belizean dishes at home.

Here’s what I enjoyed:

Breakfast

Fry Jacks

I enjoyed fry jacks nearly every morning for breakfast. Basically, it’s fried dough, and will come in different consistencies and sizes depending on who is making them.

I think I liked all of the versions I had!

It is most often served with eggs and refried beans:

I also enjoyed stuffed jacks, in which the fry jack is sliced open and filled with a scrambled egg mixture (at breakfast) or beans and cheese (later in the day):

Johnny Cakes

A johnny cake (also known as a journey cake, because you take it to go when you’re heading on a trip) is like a corn biscuit. It’s dry and flaky, and usually served as a sandwich with fillings inside.

I only tried it once and didn’t love it, so the next morning I was back to eating fry jacks. It’s definitely worth sampling though, and maybe you’ll enjoy a better version than I had!

Lunch, Dinner, & Snacks

Panades

This is the first of several snack variations you’ll find in Belize made with corn tortillas and toppings or filling.

The terms panades refers to small tortilla pockets that are stuffed with meat – it’s just like a crunchy empanda, but typically smaller and also served with a bit of slaw on top.

Garnaches

To make garnaches, (or garnachas) small tortillas are fried and then topped with refried beans, onions and sometimes other vegetables, and cheese.

The refried beans are applied like a spread, and the soft topping contrast with the crunch of the tortilla underneath. It’s like an open-faced sandwich or flat taco.

Salbutes

Salbutes are another variation of tortilla and toppings. This time the small tortillas are deep fried, so even crunchier than garnaches, and then topped with shredded chicken, pickled onions, and other vegetables. It doesn’t look like much, but these little bites are actually quite filling.

Conch

Conch season runs from October 1^st until late June, and you’ll have plenty of opportunities to enjoy it in its different culinary forms if you visit during that itme.

A conch fritter was the first thing that I ate when I arrived in Belize, and it was a satisfying bite of the seafood surrounded by a rich batter and fried to a golden brown. Conch is also frequently served in ceviche or as part of a soup.

Hudut

This is a traditional dish of the Garifuna people, of Afro-Caribbean descent. It involves fish cooked in coconut broth with a plantain paste.

It’s not all that different from some coconut-based Asian dishes. And it’s an incredibly flavorful way to enjoy some of Belize’s freshest products.

Rice & Beans

Rice and beans is the Belizean national dish, and often said so quickly it sounds like a single word – riceanbeans. It may be different than other versions you’ve tasted because the mix is cooked in coconut milk. Most typically it is served with stewed chicken, although any meat will do.

The versions varied a lot, and in general had a pretty small bean to rice ratio, which is different from other rice and bean dishes I’ve had. And of course, some restaurants had more flavorful versions than others.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Street vendors with large silver pots are probably selling an excellent version of rice and beans.

Hot Sauce

Although I wouldn’t recommend consuming hot sauce on its own, this is a condiment that you’ll see everywhere, from the food stand at the bus station to a proper sit-down restaurant.

The most popular hot sauce is Marie’s, a Belizean-owned company that has been producing award-winning hot sauces since the 1980s. Usually one of their more basic habanero hot sauces will be on the table as a condiment next to the salt and pepper shakers.

There are also homemade spicy concoctions that might appear either instead of or in addition to a bottle of Marie’s. It’s a mixture of chopped onions and habaneros, usually made quite spicy for the local palate.

Dessert

Banana Bread

Banana bread (or a banana cake) may not be the dessert that first comes to mind when you think of Central America, but it actually makes a lot of sense.

Belize grows a lot of bananas – usually for export – however, the ones that aren’t pretty enough for export get sold locally for cheap. And so the locals of course make dessert!

I don’t think I managed any pictures, although I did enjoy moist banana bread twice during my stay.

Chocolate

Chocolate-making is an old Mayan tradition in Belize. As I learned on my chocolate-making tour, Belizean chocolate actually comes from a different cacao plant than most or all the chocolate you’ve ever had.

I really enjoyed the local chocolate, as it is less bitter than your typical dark chocolate and has lots of flavors that come through as you chew. Honestly, with all the different aromatic notes, it felt like I was at a wine tasting, not a chocolate tasting!

Even if you don’t get to taste Belizean chocolate on a tour, there are plenty of local chocolates on sale, including at the airport.

Beverages

Fresh Juices

Especially at street food stands, you’ll see a pretty good list of fresh juices on order. Typically beverages are prepared in advance, and then ladled out of large containers for your drink.

One local option is called soursop, from the native fruit also known in Spanish as guanabana, and fortunately not sour at all. There are other seasonal fruit options, and frequently horchata, a Mexican rice-based beverage, is also available.

Belikin Beer

Belikin beer is considered one of Belize’s national treasures, and is the one beer you’ll see everywhere alcohol is served.

In fact, when you order, asking for a “Belikin” means their regular lager. While requesting “a Stout” undoubtedly results in a Belikin Stout being served to you. Their third variety is the Lighthouse, Belikin’s light beer.

The one thing that I had read before my trip and definitely noticed the first time I sipped a beer with dinner – bottles of Belikin beer are smaller than usual! Belikin bottles are around 280 mL, while a typical beer bottle is 330mL. So you may go through it quicker than you expect.

Local Rum

Belize is a country known for its sugarcane, so it also has lots of local rum producers. Its rum is used in lots of cocktails, and also treated as a sipping beverage, especially for the reserve rums or aged varieties.

The favorite rum that I tried was the Tiburon aged rum that had a lot of complexity, and I sipped it as an accompaniment with rice and beans.

The 3 things I didn’t taste

Fried Chicken

I think about fried chicken first as an American bar food, although there are many traditions around the world that include fried chicken (Korea comes to mind).

Coupled with fried food being typical in hot climates and the prevalence of hot sauce, there was quite a bit of fried chicken available in Belize.

I had intended to try fried chicken wings at a street vendor in San Ignacio my last night there, but had a late lunch that day and couldn’t muster up the appetite.

Lobster

Belize is famous for its lobster, although the season does not begin until June 15^th each year, so I was too early to enjoy this specialty.

I’m already thinking about a return trip to Belize, and if I do go again, I would definitely plan the timing to align with the many lobster festivals that take place along the coastal and island towns from mid to late June to celebrate the start of the season.

Cashew Wine

I love the taste of cashews, so I was very curious about cashew wine. Unfortunately, despite my best efforts, none of the local bars or restaurants I visited had it available by the glass.

And in duty free, the only bottle of cashew wine available was a gigantic 1-liter in size.

The best way to sample cashew wine as far as I can tell is to take a cooking class where it is served, or to go on a tour of locally produced food and drinks that includes a cashew wine tasting.

On the upside, I did get to try cashew fruit (pictured above) that was picked fresh from a tree when I was on a Chocolate-making and Waterfalls tour. It was a bit sweet and nutty, with very juicy flesh.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Just watch out if you get a fresh cashew fruit because while the fruit is delicious, the nut in the center is actually toxic until roasted.

Have you been to Belize? What were your favorite dishes that you ate there? Anything else I should add to my ‘Foodie Bucket List’?

Like this post? ‘Pin it’ for later!

The Day Trip from Rome I Can’t Recommend Enough: Orvieto

March 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 20 comments

Italy is blessed with many picturesque hilltop towns, and I’ve been to many, but Orvieto is one of the best for its sweeping views of the surrounding valley and incredible history and beauty of the attractions in town.

It’s an easy day trip from Rome by train, which is how I visited. Even gazing up at the walled town from the bottom of the funicular when you arrive, Orvieto is distinctive and breathtaking, and doesn’t disappoint when you ascend to the top.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Rome

My favorite day trips in Italy in general involve having enough interesting sights to fill the time (although not too many to be overwhelming), beautiful views, and great food options.

Orvieto has all of this, and millenia of history that is visible seemingly everywhere you turn. Read on for all of the wonderful attractions I was able to squeeze into my single day there.

Things to Do

Around Town

Duomo (Cathedral)

One of the more stunning cathedrals I’ve seen in all of Italy, the Orvieto Duomo is the main draw to the city for many.

The outer facade is incredibly intricate, mixing different styles of sculpture, mosaics, and design. Its beauty is evident when you first venture inside as well, in particular visiting the frescoes of the adjacent San Brizio chapel.

Orvieto Underground

If you read my Naples Cheat Sheet, you know that I find underground passageways intriguing.

This is especially dramatic in Orvieto, as the underground rooms and passageways extend underneath nearly the entire city, dating back to several hundred years before Christ. Of course, you’ll only see a section of the underground areas on the approximately hour-long tour that begins close to the Duomo, but these include areas for raising pigeons and the location of the olive press, with beautiful views over the valley.

Torre del Moro (Moro Tower)

It’s worth climbing the tower’s 250 steps for the views at the top across Orvieto and the surrounding countryside, and the tower is located right in town. On the September day when I visited, there were quite a lot of bugs milling about at the top, but walk around to find a comfortable viewing spot as they tend to congregate toward just one side of the viewing platform.

Church of Sant’Andrea

The church itself is nice and includes a distinctive multi-sided bell tower, but the real treasure is its extensive underground to see with a guide.

It is well worth the extra fee for the friendly, bilingual tour guide who walks you through the history underneath the main level, including fabulous mosaics and ancient roads.

Pozzo della Cava

A series of caves with history going back nearly 3,000 years, this attraction is privately owned and very tourist-friendly with explanatory signs in several languages.

I found it helpful to visit after the ‘Orvieto Underground’ tour, which helped me put into better context some of the areas I was seeing. And be sure to pop into the restaurant, stand on the clear section of plexiglass in the floor, and look down if you dare.

Off the Beaten Path

Church of San Giovenale

The church is Orvieto’s oldest and contains some beautiful artwork. It’s worth stopping into on this end of town, which is a lovely area to explore on foot.

Town Walls

Orvieto is a walled city on a hill, and some of the best views you’ll have of the surrounding valley is by strolling across them on foot.

Communal Gardens of Orvieto

I strolled into this site right by the funicular by accident, but was so glad I did because it offers lookout points and great views of the valley below Orvieto.

This was one of the few spots in town where I saw more locals than tourists.

TIP! The opening hours change by season, so be sure to leave enough time at the beginning or end of your day to spend some time here.

Pozzo di San Patrizio

This well was constructed as a backup water source in the 1500s when Pope Clement VII was hiding out in Orvieto.

Today it’s a beautiful architectural remnant from that period located on the other side of the funicular than the Communal Gardens, behind the remains of an Etruscan Temple.

Where to Eat – Best Bites

Duca di Orvieto

I had done a bunch of research about restaurants in town serving the local fare, and even walked past a few and checked out their menus on my walk into the center, but somehow I overlooked this restaurant that is the single place I’d recommend to anyone visiting.

How did this restaurant make such a deep impression on this self-proclaimed foodie?

Well for one, a lot of their recipes are from local families dating back to the 1500s!! (No, that is not a typo. When was the last time you dined on 16th-century specialties?)

A lot of the dishes take many hours or even days to prepare, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find them anywhere else in town. And the result is incredibly rich and delicious.

I enjoyed a local pasta cooked in red wine for many hours and a beef dish slow cooked with pears and nothing else.

The locals know that this is the spot to go, as I was the only non-Italian on my visit, and even the local police officers took their lunch break here.

Definitely not to be missed! If you’re not sure what to order, rest assured, the staff is wonderful and will steer you in the right direction.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

If you are coming to Orvieto as a day trip from Rome, your best bet is to arrive by train. There are many trains making the journey, so you’ll have several choices to find the schedule that works best for you.

I definitely recommend getting an early start if you can, so you can maximize the time you’re in Orvieto during tourism hours.

You can search for trains between ‘Roma’ and ‘Orvieto’ on TrenItalia’s English website here, including the cost and traveling time for each option.

So your transiting goes smoothly, there are a few things to keep in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There is always the danger of a train strike (sciopero) in Italy, and these happen more often than you’d think. Ask at your accommodations or do an internet search before choosing which day you’ll visit Orvieto.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most trains from Rome to Orvieto leave from platforms at the far end of the station, so leave extra time to walk there to avoid missing your train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! As the day goes on, trains can become progressively more delayed, so you may want to see when you’re ready to leave the city before committing to a timed train ticket.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! When you arrive in Orvieto, you will be in the lower part of town while the main attractions are all on the hilltop. Fortunately, the funicular station is immediately across the street from the Orvieto train station, and it runs relatively frequently, so you’ll never be waiting for long in either direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re planning on a full day in Orvieto, take a picture of the return funicular schedule, especially if there’s a specific train you’re trying to catch back to Rome in the evening.

I spent a really delightful day in Orvieto and felt like I had pretty thoroughly explored the town in that time.

It would certainly be a good spot to make a home base for a few days as well, and I met some tourists who were doing just that, with leisurely days sightseeing in town and on other days driving a rental car to other nearby attractions and wineries.

However you fit it into your Italy itinerary, this is a spot that is definitely worth a visit!

Any sights in Orvieto that I missed? What other day trips from Rome would you recommend?

Like this post? ‘Pin It’ for later on Pinterest!

Cantinone Gia' Schiavi How to Eat Like a Local Where to Find the Best Cicchetti in Venice Local Tapas

How to Eat Like a Local: Best Cicchetti in Venice, Italy

November 16, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

What is typical, local Venice food? This was one of the initial questions I researched before my first trip to the city.

I often seek out regional specialties when I travel, as another dimension of getting a feel for a destination.

Plus, the local fare is usually best close to the source.

I had some preconceived notions about Venetian food – like seafood, of course – but the surprising part of my research when looking for what to eat in Venice led me to local, Venice tapas that I had never heard of before: cicchetti (chee-KETT-ee).

Venice Food: What are Cicchetti anyway?

Cicchetti is a word in Venetian dialect to describe small bites like tapas, and takes many forms.

The most typical cicchetti you’ll see is some form of topping on small slices of baguette-like bread (think crostini, although I don’t think I’ve ever had my cicchetti bread toasted).

Also common are polpette, which are meatballs or meatball-like mixtures made with fish or vegetables, then breaded and fried.

You’ll also see a fair amount of battered and fried fare, from fish to stuffed squash blossoms – it all depends on the place.

Regardless of the specific type, cicchetti will top any local’s list of what to eat in Venice.

You’ll see Venetians popping into places for a drink and a few cicchetti all day long, and especially at the end of the work day. Some people treat these Venice tapas as an appetizer, like the Milanese aperitivo, to be followed by a sit-down dinner later in the evening. Or a mid-day snack.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Others pick a single cicchetti location in Venice where they’ll linger for several hours, during which time they’ll eat enough cicchetti to count as a meal.

Or you can always stop into a few different bars as you might do sampling tapas in Spain, consuming a beverage and a cicchetto or two at each place.

Now that I’ve traveled to Venice on multiple trips, I’ve tried my fair share an obscenely large number of cicchetti spots – and have some favorites and definite opinions on the best cicchetti in Venice.

But when it comes to what to eat in Venice, nothing beats sampling these Venice tapas.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In general, wherever you are outside the central touristy area, you can spot the locals’ favorite bar by the crowd gathered outside, so keep your eyes open as you stroll around.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Watch the opening hours and days as some Venice cicchetti places are open late into the night, while others cater more to the breakfast and lunch crowd, shuttering by 7pm or so.

I have visited all of the cicchetti spots listed below.

My Venice cicchetti picks are listed in order of preference (with my favorite bars first), and also in clusters of places that are close to one another geographically – so this is an easy-to-use guide if you’d like to cicchetti bar hop.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re wondering what to eat in Venice as a solo traveler, cicchetti are ideal! You can grab them on the go or sit at a Venice tapas bar soaking up the atmosphere without feeling out of place.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

If you’d prefer to have a cicchetti tour instead – and let the tour guide do all the hard work – there are plenty of organized options available as well.

Where to Find the Best Cicchetti in Venice

Cicchetti Close to Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection

Cantinone Gia’ Schiavi

I like this spot for the old Venice feel coupled with interesting combinations of flavors on their cicchetti, like primosale cheese and radicchio, or less-seen but delicious ingredients for cicchetti, like truffle spread.

The cicchetti are on smaller pieces of bread than other places, but this just means you can try more varieties.

Plus, it is very affordable – 3 cicchetti and a glass of wine on my recent visit set me back only €5.60 (US$6).

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! This spot is off-the-beaten path, but thankfully close to two main art attractions in Venice – the Accademia and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection – so if you’re seeing art in the afternoon, you can pop in here afterward before heading back to other parts of the city.

Where to Stay Nearby: Quaint Bed & Breakfast Residenza Corte Antica is just on the other side of the Accademia Bridge over the Grand Canal. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the Cannaregio area of Venice, east of the Train Station

If you’re going to cicchetti bar hop in one spot, this is the area of Venice I’d recommend you go.

In particular, the stretch along the canal walking between the first two places is away from the tourist fray and has a lot of lively spots to pop in for a drink or more formal places for dinner.

Or just enjoy the relaxed atmosphere as you stroll between these three spots:

Vino Vero

For what to eat in Venice, look no further than this gem.

The cicchetti here are both colorful and delicious, and it’s situated in a lovely spot with tables out overlooking the water. Stop by for a few cicchetti, or stay for your entire meal like many others did when I visited.

The night I went, there was even a boat tour that pulled up in the water and had one person jump out to grab some cicchetti for the passengers to sample.

Cantina Aziende Agricole Roberto Berti

I did not eat any cicchetti here, although there were several typical ones available.

I did enjoy a glass of wine though, and they have quite a great selection to choose from.

There are only a few tables outside, but this is a great spot for people-watching as it’s along the street that many locals stroll along in the early evening from the train station to this more local part of town.

Osteria al Cicheto

Don’t let the location close to the train station fool you, this is a spot where locals congregate as well as some tourists.

This osteria is down a very narrow alleyway so you may get lost in your quest for Venice tapas – possibly walking past the turn off from the main street the first time like I did – but it is worth seeking out for the friendly staff and high-quality cicchetti ingredients.

There is a decent amount of table seating and also spots around the bar, and could easily be a spot for a full meal.

Where to Stay Nearby: The luxurious Hotel Carlton is just on the other side of the bridge from the Santa Lucia train station. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the Santa Croce area, south of the Train Station

Hostaria Vecio Biavarol

This is the closest of the spots to the train station, making it not that far from Osteria al Cicheto (listed above). The cicchetti are also delicious, and they are more than happy behind the bar to steer you in the right direction for both the food and wine choices, in a beautiful location.

Bacareto Da Lele

This is my least favorite of this cluster of three cicchetti spots, although it’s quite popular – you’ll spot it easily by the lively crowd outside.

I’d skip the food but often enjoy a drink here and soak up the atmosphere, adjacent to the water on one side and overlooking a church square on the other.

Cantina Arnaldi

Cantina means a wine cellar in Italian, and the delicious wine selections here live up to the name.

There are also varied, tasty cicchetti and this place is the most conducive of the nearby spots for staying for an entire meal. People will linger later into the evening enjoying just one more glass of delicious wine.

Where to Stay Nearby: A brief walk from Cantina Arnaladi, recently renovated Ca’ Riza is a convenient yet homey spot (and offers rooms from singles to quadruples). Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Four-star luxury at Hotel Moresco is also just a short stroll away. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the San Marco area, just east of St. Mark’s Square

Magna Bevi Tasi

This is obviously in a very tourist-filled part of town, but is just far enough away to be a nice escape from the crowds, with some tasty bites and great beverage selection.

It’s also nice to sit outside on the busy piazza and watch the crowds as you enjoy your cicchetti.

Where to Stay Nearby: The affordable luxury of Locanda Al Leon is just steps away. Read reviews and compare prices HERE.

Cicchetti in the San Marco area, south of Rialto Bridge

Enoteca Al Volto

If you are going to several cicchetti spots around Rialto (see the several other options below also), I highly recommend coming here first – the ambiance is local despite its proximity to high-traffic tourist areas, and the cicchetti are high-quality.

Cicchetti in the San Polo area, north of Rialto Bridge

The three spots below are definitely the most touristy of the list, due to their proximity to Rialto Bridge – and to each other.

Their doors are filled with stickers of international recommendations, and the clientele reflect that. You’ll hear a lot of English and other languages besides Italian, and even see tour groups clustered outside sometimes.

But they’re popular by being convenient to where visitors will already be.

And if your time in Venice is limited, these may be the places you check out for cicchetti (in addition to Enoteca Al Volto, which is also close to Rialto Bridge and listed above):

Cantina Do Spade

This is my favorite spot of the three cicchetti bars on this side of the Rialto Bridge, for its solid cicchetti choices and traditional atmosphere.

There is a warmth and a buzz about the place that make it clear how cicchetti became a Venetian tradition. And at Cantina Do Spade, they should know – this spot has been perfecting Venice food since 1448! (No, not a typo.)

All’Arco

Another traditional place quite close by, All’Arco tends to close earlier than the other spots, so swing by for lunch or early in the evening for a great wine pour and typical Venetian hospitality.

Osteria Alla Ciurma

I find the cicchetti here a bit greasy, and there are a lot of tourists (and tourist groups) that stop by.

While it’s not my favorite food stop, it is another location quite close to the others mentioned above that has great local wine choices.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Ask about the wine in the large container at the bar.

Where to Stay Nearby:

Explore AirBNB options HERE

Check Hotel and B&B prices in Venice HERE

Want to know more about Venice and making the most of the city?

Check out my 10 Commandments for Visiting Venice. I also have a fun picture series of 11 Things That Look Just a Bit Different in Venice and of course my comprehensive Venice Cheat Sheet, which includes more Venice food options, with some great restaurant options (besides all the places mentioned above for finding the best cicchetti in Venice).

Looking to book a room in Venice? Check out these great spots!

Ca’ Riza – Ideal for Solo Travelers or Groups

Locanda al Leon – Best Value for Money

Residenza Corte Antica – Quaint B&B in a Great Location

Whatever neighborhood you’re in, the Venice food scene is vibrant and there’s no shortage of places to pop in for a glass of wine or a small bite. And then you can decide for yourself where to find the best cicchetti in Venice!

Going to other places in Italy on your visit?

Wherever you’re headed, I’ve got you covered! After years of living in Milan, I’ve highlighted My Top Spots for Aperitivo there. My extensive experience will also help you Find the Perfect Place to Stay in Florence and the Best Bites to Eat in Rome. Plus a cheat sheet of all the Best Things to Do and Eat in Naples is a must-read before you go.

Where have you had the best cicchetti in Venice? Are there any questions about Venice food or cicchetti that I haven’t answered yet? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

Planning a trip to Venice sometime soon (or want to)? ‘Pin’ this post to save for later!

Where to Eat in Stavanger, Norway: Surprise Foodie Destination

January 16, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I can’t stop talking about where to eat in Stavanger, Norway.

How did a city I had never heard of before become the surprise foodie destination of my last two-week European trip?

By far, it was the city that excited me the most for its food and drink offerings. And as I ate and drank my way through, Stavanger, it delivered.

It’s a pretty simple story, really.

Stavanger was a small town through the 1960s when the oil boom hit, and has since grown into one of Norway’s most sophisticated dining scenes, with no shortage of oil executives and business travelers eating lavish meals on their expense accounts – supporting excellent restaurants all around town.

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2018

Now Stavanger is Norway’s third-largest city and was the first outside of Oslo to have one of its restaurants awarded a Michelin star. Since then, a second restaurant has earned the same accolade.

With Stavanger’s proximity to the Lysefjord’s beautiful scenery and famous hikes, it’s likely to be a pass through point for any outdoor adventuring you do in Norway.

Like many other travelers to this region, I passed through Stavanger both coming and going.

The Stavanger dining scene isn’t just serving up great food and drinks, there is some exciting innovation with local and seasonal ingredients that made it a unique experience, not just your standard “good food.” All with a Norwegian twist, of course.

It’s a city I’d go back to, just to eat.

When you do go, here is where you’ll find your best bites and sips:

Top Coffee Shops

Bøker og Børst

Meaning “books and booze” (since it also operates as a bar) this spot is filled with quirky and fun décor that makes you feel instantly cozy the moment you walk in the door.

The staff was also super friendly, and served up my favorite coffee in all of Stavanger – and I sampled a lot more than made this list.

Plus, the ultra-moist slice of decadent carrot cake was a great way to treat myself after a cold, rainy morning on the ferry ride back from the Lysefjord.

Kokko Kaffebar

This spot is actually just around the corner from the previous coffee shop, but has a very different vibe that is light and airy.

There is beautiful décor across multiple levels and bright, open seating. Kokko Kaffebar also serves up great coffee, with a very smooth flavor. Although I did not enjoy my food quite as much, since I found their baked goods to be a bit dry and not as flavorful as other spot.

Where to Eat in Stavanger

26 North

It is not usually my style to eat at a hotel restaurant – especially one that is a Norwegian chain – but this one is really delicious and it was worth being out of my comfort zone to sample the cuisine here.

26 North offers local “farm & fjord” options daily (an option each from the land and the sea) and what is overall a locally-inspired menu.

There is an appetizer sampler, which is a great way to try traditional Norwegian dishes, especially if you are dining solo like I was.

Even a dish that sounded pretty standard, like the steak I ordered, was both cooked and seasoned incredibly well, and I slowly savored each bite.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

Egget

I knew from the moment I read about the concept of this restaurant that it was my kind of spot and the experience lived up to my expectation – it was my favorite experience in Stavanger and the best food I ate in all of Norway.

There is no menu, just a talented young chef putting together food based on what is available that day in delicious small courses. Like Uri Buri restaurant in Israel, the server will keep bringing additional courses until you stay “stop.”

And they were all so absolutely delicious:

BBQ crab with cashew cream, celeriac root, grated horseradish, grilled broccolini and mustard, and grilled oat milk bread
Grilled hake with apple cream from the chef’s dad’s garden, kaffir lime zest, and fennel leaves
Grilled fish with perfectly crispy skin and a spicy, rich, deeply flavored shrimp bouillon I couldn’t get enough of
Crispy-skin lamb with blistered carrots and pumpkin seeds
Cheese course

Of course, you can tell them any dietary restrictions at the start, and the dishes will be tailored to you as needed (and don’t worry, the staff and chef speak excellent English).

There is also a comprehensive wine selection, that you can enjoy without the pressure of buying an entire bottle, with the server/sommelier guiding you in wine pairings for that day’s courses.

Egget was a great solo dining destination, with a counter overlooking the open kitchen where you can sit and watch the details of how each dish is prepared and if you’re lucky like I was, make friends with fellow diners.

Also, the price was so reasonable for what I got!

The total bill came out to 1,020 NOK (105 Euros/US$120), with about one quarter of the price for my wine pairings and the remaining three-quarters covering the four courses plus cheese plate.

Fisketorget

Located right on the water’s edge, Fisketorget is part fish market (its literal translation) and part restaurant serving up local fish and seafood specialties.

For me, this was Norwegian comfort food in a beautiful locale, with plenty of beer and wine options to pair with your food.

While looking out over the nearby inlet, I enjoyed a giant bowl of Norwegian specialty fiskesuppe for lunch, a hearty fish soup which had delicious flavors and lots of different type of seafood – the perfect cozy indulgence to warm me up on a chilly day.

Renaa Matbaren

Although I did not make it to Stavanger’s first Michelin-starred restaurant, RE-NAA, I had a fabulous meal at the slightly less formal version, known as Renaa Matbaren.

Food in Norway tends to be on the pricey side, but if you come for lunch here, there is a great “lunch box” deal with a set starter and dessert, along with a choice of three main dishes.

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal)

First, the food is outstanding, with great combinations of cooking techniques to yield delicious flavor and texture combinations that you’ll want to savor for each bite. There is also a great wine list, with many options by the glass to pair with your food.

But the piece of my experience at Renaa Matbaren that put it over the top was the exceptional service.

Although I was dressed for the ferry ride I would take shortly after my meal, I was treated like a queen when I dined there, without any assumptions being made based on my appearance, which was just a wee bit casual:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! In addition to this more casual version and the original Michelin-starred RE-NAA, there is also an Xpress RE-NAA bakery and artisan pizzeria.

Where to Drink in Stavanger

Pjolter & Punsj

You know it’s a great cocktail spot when you come for one post-dinner drink and end up staying for three.

Plus, you make half a dozen friends along the way.

First off, let me say that the cocktails are incredible. Mixing drinks behind the bar is award-winning mixologist Truls Thomsen, who was also fun to chat with (plus, he lived in both the US and Perth, Australia, just like me!).

Many of the cocktail ingredients are in-house concoctions that take several days to prepare, and it shows when you taste the delicious result. Which is why this is where the servers from the nearby Michelin-starred restaurant choose to drink at the end of their shift.

There are also a lot of local spirits and sensibility woven into the cocktail menu here.

Each drink on the menu is displayed along with a different sardine tin, an homage to the now defunct canning industry in Stavanger.

Flavor combinations are locally and historically inspired, with aquavit (a local spirit) as a prominent ingredient in the cocktails.

Which isn’t hard to do because the bar boasts the largest aquavit collection in the region.

This spot could easily thrive in London or New York or Bangkok – but instead you get to enjoy it in Stavanger.

Places to Check Out Next Time

Lervig Aktiebryggeri

Craft beer has exploded in Norway in recent years. Lervig is Stavanger’s local brewery, with its beers widely available at restaurants and bars around town.

You can also visit the brewery itself, with lots of information on the English website linked above, including how to book a tour.

RE-NAA

This is Stavanger’s 1^st Michelin-starred restaurant and also the older sibling to Renaa Matbaren, where I enjoyed the fabulous three-course lunch mentioned above.

After having tasted the chef’s creations, I’d definitely splurge on a meal at this spot on a return trip to Stavanger. It is 1,600 NOK for the 20-22 course tasting menu (165 Euros/US$190) and then another 1,400 NOK (so almost as much!) for the wine pairings.

Start saving your Norwegian kronor now!

Sabi Omakase

One year after RE-NAA earned a Michelin star in 2016, this spot joined it with one of its own.

A sushi omakase experience limited to 10 diners per seating, Sabi Omakase runs about the same price as RE-NAA, at 1495 NOK per person for food and offering wine pairing at the same price, which is approximately 150 Euros/US$175 for each.

Yes, so now you might have just a bit of an idea why I ate so well in Stavanger during my visit.

It was a big reason I loved Norway, and why I’m now recommending it as a top travel destination to anyone who will listen.

READ MORE: Top Travel Destinations of 2019

Whenever I return to Norway, I’m eager to spend even more time eating my way through the city.

Any other top spots I should check out when I return to Stavanger? What has been your favorite city for eating? Any city that surprised you with its foodie scene?

Enjoyed this post? ‘Pin it’ to share on Pinterest & save for later!

How to Spend a Weekend in Thessaloniki, Greece

January 29, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Whether you know it as Thessaloniki, Salonika, Salonicco, the second-largest city in Greece is an ideal location for a weekend getaway any time of year.

Regardless of variations, this is a northern Greek gem that does not get nearly enough attention when it comes to destinations in Greece, and you’ll get to explore quite a bit in just a weekend in Thessaloniki.

Thessaloniki is a pretty compact city, so most of the things you’ll want to do will be in easy walking distance:

Taking advantage of walking the central pedestrian area and markets
Checking out ancient ruins peeking through all over town
Strolling the waterfront
Riding a boat
Exploring culture and history at local museums
Savoring bites as you take in the vibrant culinary scene

Plus, there are cheap, easy flights from many other cities in Europe (I spent a weekend in Thessaloniki when I lived in Milan).

Anyone could happily spend a weekend here at any time of year.

Thessaloniki would be easy to do as a solo trip, but I recommend going with a travel buddy or two to maximize the different dishes you can try at the Greek feasts you’ll enjoy at restaurants around town.

When I visited, it just so happened that a friend and I were looking to go somewhere on the weekend of Valentine’s Day. Then a third good friend wanted to join as well – so we started referring to it as our Galentine’s weekend in Thessaloniki, of course. (In case you’re as clueless as I was, Galentine’s Day started as a fake TV holiday and now is a real thing women celebrate on February 13 ^th.)

Whether you’re single or coupled – and our trio was a mix of both – it was a fun excuse to have a weekend away.

Although, really, Thessaloniki is so wonderful you don’t need an excuse. Just go!

Things to See and Do in Thessaloniki

On the Waterfront

White Tower

This is the most iconic building in town, and the one you’ll see most often in connection with the city.

It is a cylindrical building on the waterfront that has been previously used as both a fortress and a prison, and now houses a museum and lookout point on the roof.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Tickets details are HERE and are at a reduced rate during the off-season, from November to March.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’ll be visiting other museums in town, there is a combined ticket available for admission to several different spots.

Boat Rides

Technically, it’s not a “boat tour,” it’s a “floating bar.” Which means that admission is free, but you must by a drink while you’re on board (alcoholic or otherwise).

The boat trip around the harbor will last from 30 minutes to 1 hour, and is well worth it for the fun of being on the water and the great city views you’ll see along the way.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Boats leave from the shore just outside the White Tower.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Boats will not go if the weather conditions are bad, so if a boat ride is a priority, check the forecast and plan accordingly.

Walk the Shore

It may not sound like an activity, but the waterfront is lovely!

See “The Umbrellas” by Giorgios Zoggolopoulos

After the White Tower, this sculpture is probably the second most recognizable part of Thessaloniki. Be sure to stroll and see it for yourself:

View this post on Instagram

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal)

Stare up at the Monument of Alexander the Great

The monument is suitably impressive and larger than life to commemorate the local boy who spread Greek influence to far away lands over 2,000 years ago.

Befriend Locals

Everyone is pretty friendly around Thessaloniki. Especially when they think you’re a professional photographer and decide to pose for you!

Around Town

Roman Forum

Like many ruins across Europe, this spot was discovered just decades ago by accident, but is impressive in its scale and how well the stone structures have stood the test of time.

You can appreciate the site just strolling by, but if you’d like to explore more, there is a museum on site as well.

Plateia Aristotelous & The Main Pedestrian Area

Aristotelous Square is one of the more modern areas of the city, and is especially impressive as viewed from the water on a boat ride.

Continuing on from the square is the main pedestrian area, popular with locals, tourists, and street vendors galore. It’s a very scenic part of town overlooking the water.

Modiano Market

There is mixed information online about whether this area is closed temporarily or permanently, but whether it is this historical market or another market in town, it’s a great opportunity to experience the bustle of the market, taste local goodies, and see the various meat, fish, and produce on offer.

The Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki

Through the late 1800s, over 50% of Thessaloniki was Jewish, which is an overwhelming percentage for any city. Thessaloniki’s Jewish population dwindled after the devastating fire of 1917, although it still made up approximately 20% of the city’s population until World War II, when almost all of Thessaloniki’s Jews died in the Holocaust.

The museum gives a window into what Jewish life in the city was like at its peak and a history of the people since then.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The museum is closed from early afternoon on Friday and all day on Saturday in observance of the Jewish Sabbath. If you only have a weekend in Thessaloniki, the museum will only be open on Sunday from 10am-2pm (and does have more hours if you visit during the week).

Arch of Galerius

Dating to the Roman Emperor Galerius in the 4^th century, there are intricate battle scenes carved into every angle of the stone.

Hagios Giorgios/Rotunda

Nearby and dating from the same time period as the Arch of Galerius, the Rotunda is a beautiful building of stone and art worth visiting.

Church/Crypt of Hagios Demetrios

Dedicated to Saint Demetrios, patron saint of Thessaloniki, this is a UNESCO heritage site famous for its mosaics.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Use the stairs next to the altar to descend to the crypt.

Church of Panagia Chalkeon

While young compared to other churches in the city at just around 1,000 years old, there is some beautiful artwork inside and palm trees beautifully surrounding the outside of the church.

Church of Hagia Sofia

Not to be confused with the one in Istanbul, this church is distinctive with its yellow outside, and definitely one of the most crowded – and impressive – churches we saw during our weekend in Thessaloniki.

Monastery of St. Theodora

While this wasn’t on our radar before visiting, we wandered into this central spot and were mesmerized by the intricate decorations and bright colors.

Chasing Views

You’ll get some great views on the waterfront, both from the top of the White Tower and while out on the water on a boat ride.

For the opposite perspective, hike to the upper part of the city (yes, this means uphill!).

Things to see on your way:

Church of Agioi Anagyroi Eptapyrgiou

A beautiful church that is definitely built in a different style than many of the churches in the city center, and features lovely artwork and color.

Heptapyrgion Fortress/Eptapyrgio Castle

With many names all meaning “fortress of seven towers,” this fortress/castle actually boasts ten towers, overlooking the complex and the city below.

It’s still undergoing renovations (and it shows!) but it is worth the uphill trek to reach this spot.

Other Museums to Check Out

We spent more of our time exploring on foot outside, but would have enjoyed checking out these spots if we had more time (or if it had been rainy):

The Archaeological Museum

Museum of Byzantine Culture

Museum of Photography

Where to Eat in Thessaloniki

Let’s be real, one of the main reasons to visit Greece is for the food!

From fresh feta to seafood to sizzling concoctions served tableside, we savored it all as we ate our way through the city.

Our best bites:

Agioli

Right on the promenade overlooking the water, we were able to enjoy the outdoor seating, even though it was February when we visited.

Portions are piled high with some of the delicious seafood specialties Greece and the Mediterranean is known for.

Bazagiazi

Located by Modiani Market (see above), this restaurant was low-key but serving up delicious dishes and oozing with Greek hospitality.

Going for dinner felt like an experience, and it’s obvious why locals flock here for meals.

Mpougátsa

One of the most famous shops that makes the traditional sweet “mpougátsa” of Thessaloniki, this crunchy and somewhat sweet pastry is worth seeking out on your visit.

Mia Feta

This was definitely our most memorable meal of the trip. There is a large communal table in the middle of this shop and restaurant.

From the cheese assortment to other savory baked dishes, each bite here was incredible and the staff was incredibly friendly and accommodating.

The cheese selection is vast and varied, so don’t be shy about ordering a feast!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! You can find their menu in English on their Facebook page HERE.

Negroponte

Serving up small plates that change daily, seating spills out onto the street giving you more opportunity to score a table and enjoy the delicious cuisine.

We sampled a lot of things from the grill, enjoying the feast of dishes that came out one after another our first night in town.

It was quite the welcome to the local food scene!

Where to Drink in Thessaloniki

From coffee to wine to random concoctions from street vendors, there are plenty of local Greek beverages to sample during your stay.

Greek coffee anywhere!

The coffee options around Thessaloniki are seemingly endless, and you’ll want to taste your way through the myriad of excellent options.

Particularly popular with the locals is the Greek frappe, with iced coffee and usually also milky foam on top. You’ll spot Thessaloniki locals drinking frappe regardless of the weather.

PortoGalo

Part restaurant, part wine bar, part wine shop, this centrally located gem has plenty of options for how to enjoy it.

We ended up here for dessert and wine at the end of the night, and were surprised at their vast variety of both Portuguese and international selections to enjoy – including, of course, lots of port dessert wines.

Ristretto | espresso wine bar

Photo Credit: Lisa Gilpin — Photo: Lisa Gilpin

The space is beautiful and I had no idea during our visit that it was actually connected to a hotel.

Although espresso is part of its name, for us it was where we enjoyed some delicious wine our first night in Thessaloniki.

(More) Tips for Visiting

The biggest thing to know for coming to Thessaloniki is to bring your walking shoes!

Once you’re in town, it really is the best way to get around and get the flavor of this historic city.

When you first arrive, which will likely be by airplane, there are plenty of cheap and convenient options to reach the city center.

A taxi will take about a half hour and cost approximately €20. There is also a public bus, the 01X (or 01N at night) that runs frequently and costs approximately €2 per person for around a 45-minute ride, which is how we entered the city.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you plan to take the bus, be sure to identify the stop ahead of time that is closest to your accommodation (in English and Greek!) and have it marked in your phone so you can follow along on GPS as well and disembark at the right spot – we missed our stop and had to backtrack on foot in the rain to reach our hotel!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Get all of your bus questions answered on the English version of the local public transportation site HERE.

As a bustling city, the dining scene in Thessaloniki gets quite crowded on Friday and Saturday nights.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If there is one restaurant at the top of your list, be sure to reserve in advance.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Otherwise, be prepared that you may have to stop at a few places before finding a restaurant with available seating.

Overall, it was a friendly and easy city to visit, and can be very enjoyable even without extensive planning ahead of time.

Where to Stay in Thessaloniki

Even if you don’t plan much about how you’ll spend your time or which restaurants you’ll seek out for meals, you’ll want to arrange a place to sleep ahead of time!

All of the options listed below are quite reasonably priced and very centrally located.

If you visit in a trio or larger group, many of the options have triple rooms or larger suites or family rooms. If you visit solo, many of the options offer single rooms for a discounted price.

Listed in order of approximate price per night, here are my top hotel picks:

Hotel Esperia – Budget Option

(Single/Double/Triple Rooms) This is by far the most budget option on the list, and where we stayed in a budget triple.

It is a bit further from the center than the other options, but offers a great view over the ancient Agora and Roman Forum ruins, and is a great bargain.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

The Caravan Bed & Breakfast – Most Highly Rated

(Double/Triple/Family Rooms) A few blocks closer to the center and the waterfront than Hotel Esperia above, guests rave about its charm and the excellent breakfast that is included in the room price.

This is the most highly rated option listed here, on multiple booking sites.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

The Modernist Hotel – Most Central

(Double/Suite/Family Rooms) Located right off the bustling pedestrian area, guests loved being close to food and shopping, and found the hotel itself to be quiet since it is off one of the side streets.

This is definitely the most centrally located of the options listed here, and quite reasonably priced for what you get.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

Bahar Boutique Hotel – Closest to Best Restaurants

(Single/Double/Executive Rooms) Not quite as central as The Modernist Hotel, however this spot is closest to the part of town with some of the best restaurant options.

Room prices include their excellent breakfast, this is a location with luxury mixed with charm.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

Wherever you stay, you’ll really be using it as a jumping off point for all of your exploring around the city!

Find Your Best Thessaloniki Travel Deals Today- Book Now!

Thessaloniki has enough to see and do that you won’t be bored, but is compact enough to comfortably explore by foot over the course of a weekend.

For us, Thessaloniki was great as a Galentine’s weekend destination, since it was warmer than Milan and other parts of Europe in mid-February.

While I don’t usually travel for Valentine’s Day, it can be a fun excuse for a trip.

READ MORE: Visiting Verona – A Romantic Getaway for Valentine’s Day

And really, a weekend in Thessaloniki is a great trip to plan – especially last-minute – since there are so many cheap flight options from around Europe.

Do you travel for Valentine’s Day weekend? What makes an ideal weekend getaway for you? How do you decide which cities to visit when you travel to a new country?

Enjoyed this post? ‘Pin it’ to share on Pinterest & save for later!