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10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

Every time I’m in Venice, I feel like I am seeing visitors who arrive unprepared. Situated on an archipelago of many nearby islands with canals and waterways in between, Venice is a different kind of city than the ones you’re used to back home. Here are my Commandments for Visiting Venice, to make the most of your time in the city:

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  1. Get ready to climb some bridges. Yes, you know that Venice is a city of islands, but you may not have thought about what logically follows – there are a ton of bridges connecting the various parts of the city. A 10-minute walk could easily involve 5 bridges to cross. And since all of the waterways have active boat traffic, the bridges typically involve a series of steps up one side and then down the other to allow enough room underneath for the boats to pass.
  2. Leave your wheelie bags at home. If you formed a mental picture of how many stairs you’ll be climbing up and down as you traverse Venice’s many bridges, you’ll understand my strong recommendation that you leave your wheeled luggage at home. Plus, when there’s not a bridge to cross, the streets tend to be cobblestone, which is not fun for you – or for your bag. Although rumors a few years back of a ban on wheeled suitcases are not true, it’s still wise to do without.TIP! If you must bring large luggage on wheels to Venice, stay somewhere that is a short walk or direct vaporetto (public transit boat) ride away. Even the hotels just opposite the train station involve crossing one of the taller bridges, so if you must bring a wheelie bag, stick to the same side of the train station or boat stop for your accommodation.

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  3. Getting anywhere will take at least twice as long as you expect, especially on foot. People walk slowly in Venice, and many “streets” are just narrow passageways with no room to pass. There is not always a bridge where you’d like one, especially across the Grand Canal. It is also hard to navigate around Venice, so you may end up down a dead-end street or try to walk along the water’s edge only to discover that the path ends abruptly and you’ll need extra time to backtrack to your route.signs-dsc_0869
  4. Keep an eye on the signs. I remember while preparing for my first trip to Venice that one of the guidebooks suggested wandering to Saint Mark’s Square as a recommended activity. Then when I arrived, there were large signs everywhere I turned saying “Per S. Marco” with an arrow pointing the way. While this makes it harder to “wander,” these signs are your friends when it comes to navigating! Nothing will slow you down more than every minute or two stopping foot traffic to check your phone or try to make sense of a paper map. It will speed up your walking time immensely if you know which way you’re headed and use the signs to guide you.TIP! Even if you’re going somewhere else, know which of the places on the typical street signs are in the same direction you’re trying to go. The most common signs will be for: S. Marco (Saint Mark’s Square), Rialto (the Rialto bridge), Accademia (art museum, but *also* indicates the location of the other main pedestrian bridge across the Grand Canal besides by the train station), Ferrovia (the train station), & Piazzale Roma (the bus station).

    TIP! The signs don’t appear every block, but once they indicate a direction, keep walking that way (including over bridges) until you see the next sign.

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  5. Explore areas off the beaten path. No, I don’t mean the famous islands when I say this. The main islands that form Venice have plenty of neighborhoods away from the most popular tourist attractions, and this is a great way to get a feel for the city and its people.island-dsc_0665
  6. That said, visit at least one island away from the main section of Venice. Lido, Giudecca, and Murano are the closest islands, while Burano and others are a longer boat ride away. Not only is it great to get a view of the main section of Venice from the water, each island has its own flavor that will give you a fuller picture of the city overall. And some islands are known for their local crafts (like Murano for blown glass and Burano for lace and its colored houses) that you can explore through various museums and shops when you visit.boat-dsc_0887
  7. Take a boat ride. Besides walking, the most budget-friendly (and fastest) way to get around Venice is often the vaporetto, which is the pubic transit boat. An individual ride is pricey, but the single-day and several-day passes are good value – decide which one is right for you before you arrive.Many people also come to Venice with the romantic notion of a gondola ride. If this is non-negotiable for you, by all means do it. However not only is this quite expensive, but gondolas are restricted to certain routes and there’s basically a continuous line of gondolas one after another in a bit of a traffic jam, so you are not likely to get the romantic seclusion you may have envisioned.

    There are also a few alternative options. First, ride the vaporetto. You may find that the experience along the Grand Canal or traveling to one of the islands (see #6 above) gives you enough of a view of Venice from the water that you are satisfied. You can also at some point take a taxi boat, for example back to your hotel after dinner and a long day of walking around. Or, for the tour experience, while the gondolas are too tiny to go in the Grand Canal, for a similar price you can get a private boat hire (different from a taxi) that can give you a bit of a tour and private ride along Venice’s largest waterway.

  8. Eat like the locals. There are some lovely seafood restaurants and fancy Venetian fare to sample – and you should. But if you really want to eat like a local, take in an early evening drink with some Venetian tapas, cicchetti. Never heard of them? Check out my post on the best spots in Venice to sample cicchetti.locals-outdoors-cicchetti-dsc_0217
  9. Follow the Italian. No, I’m not suggesting that you stalk someone. But do listen for the places where you hear Italian spoken, or where the locals are congregating. This is your best indicator for a spot worth checking out.
  10. Chat up the Venetians. Whether this is the person working at your hotel, a server at dinner, or the friendly person pouring wine with your cicchetti, you can always get the best feel for a place from the people from the city. There have been some protests lately against the tourist influx and a campaign to ban large cruise ships, so engender some goodwill by showing genuine interest in the local opinion and experience, even if it’s as simple as taking a recommendation for a local’s favorite glass of wine instead of sticking to the one name you recognize on the list. Even with the recent protests, Venetians are curious and friendly if you’re respectful of local tradition and willing to open up.
  11. Be spontaneous and enjoy! Okay, so this is a bonus one, but also important. Most visitors to Venice have a short amount of time to spend in the city, and jam pack an itinerary filled with museum visits and timed activities. Some of the best experiences I’ve had in Venice have been ones I couldn’t have planned in advance (like an art exhibit I saw a poster for and then visited, or a side street that led straight to a stunning view of the Grand Canal), so leave time in the schedule for spontaneity – you won’t regret it!

10 Commandments for Visiting Venice

Where to Find the Top Tea Experiences in Sri Lanka

Where to Find the Top Tea Experiences in Sri Lanka

Sampling the local food and drink is a great way to explore a new culture as you travel. For several years now, wine tasting has been one of the top things I like to do when visiting a new place. Sri Lanka however is the first country I’ve visited where instead I sought out tea. There are actually a lot of similarities between tea tasting and wine tasting, so perhaps it was a natural transition?

Sri Lanka actually has a rich – if relatively recent – history of tea production, dating back to Sir Thomas Lipton. He started his own plantations there in the late 1800s, to have a direct source of tea to sell in his UK-based grocery stores. Lipton basically undercut prices this way, making tea affordable for the British masses for the first time, and cementing the widespread UK tradition of tea drinking.

While there are a lot of tea factory tours across Sri Lanka that range from mediocre to quite informative, there were only a small number of places where you could actually taste the tea or walk through the tea plantation grounds. The spot where I saw the most stunning tea landscapes and also had a great hike was around Haputale, while my favorite tea tastings were in two of the more unexpected locations: a tea shop in the center of Ella & at a tea plantation close to the coast.

Tea Landscapes & Hiking

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Dambatenne Tea Factory & Hike to Lipton’s Seat (Haputale)

If you are visiting the nearby tea meccas of Ella and Nuwara Eliya, it is an easy train ride to Haputale. The tour of the tea factory was pretty interesting even after other similar tours, although unfortunately you don’t actually get to taste any tea. The real highlight here is seeing the surrounding plantation of rolling hills with workers shifting along the rows of plants as they pick the leaves, loading up the giant sack they carry on their backs.

There is also a lovely hiking trail to the lookout point known as Lipton’s Seat. On the day I visited, there was rolling rain and fog that only lifted for a second at the top, but the trail itself was wonderful to traverse and the bad weather became an excuse to befriend fellow hikers as we huddled under an awning to avoid the rain at one point. It was obvious at the top why Sir Thomas Lipton sought out this vista when visiting his tea plantation, a spot where you can take in the entire landscape on a clear day. It’s also possible to take a tuk-tuk to the top if hiking is not your thing. There are plenty available for hire in the town center of Haputale and at the main entrance to the Tea Factory.

Tea Tasting

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Ceylon Tea Center, entrance inside Ella Village Inn restaurant (Ella)

Over a several-night stay in Ella, I popped into quite a few tea shops. But the only one where I could taste a large variety of tea all at once was at the Ceylon Tea Center. It’s a good thing I did a bit of online research to find them, because otherwise the location is the least conspicuous tea store in town, with the entrance actually inside a restaurant. I popped in at the tail end of lunch inquiring about a tasting, and within 15 minutes or so, a huge line of tea cups was laid out in an enticing line. After careful brewing of each variety of tea, the tasting began in the proscribed sequence. Some sips were more traditional Ceylon teas, other were aromatic infusions of ginger and flowers, and there were also some delicate, light versions of green and black teas. I’ll admit that offering tea tastings is also a brilliant marketing strategy, as I walked out with an armful of tea purchases, most of which I would not have bought without the opportunity to taste and enjoy them first.

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Handunugoda Tea Factory (near Galle & Mirissa)

If you only go to one tea factory during your time in Sri Lanka, this should be it! Although it is not in the central ‘Hill Country’ where most plantations are located, it was the best overall experience and the most tea I was able to taste in conjunction with a tour. The tour at Handunugoda operates like a well-oiled machine, starting with some tea and cake, then progressing through the tea plants and factory machines for processing the tea. The guide was incredibly informative, and I was lucky that this was my first tea tour as I then had this information as a reference point for all of the subsequent tours. For example, they use parts of the same tea leaves to make both black and green tea, with the difference being in the processing method, which I didn’t even know was a possibility. This was also by far the most amount of teas I was able to taste at any tea factory, with dozens of teas available for tasting, from tea made with flowers to their signature ‘sapphire’ oolong to the renowned virgin white tea that is picked by hand by workers wearing gloves to protect the tea leaves! Just be aware that the teas are all pre-brewed, so were room temperature when I did the tasting.

 

Which tea experience appeals to you the most? Is there anything else you’d still like to know about tea tasting in Sri Lanka? Ask away in the Comments.

STORIES (3)

 

Where to Eat around Times Square in NYC

Where to Eat around Times Square in NYC

If you’re planning to see a lot of Broadway theater during your time in New York – or just doing some sightseeing around Times Square – make that extra little bit of effort to ensure that you eat well in the process.  There are a ton of affordable and delicious options nearby if you know where to look.

In general, a lot of places that cater mainly to tourists will be along 7th or 8th Avenues, or along Broadway.  There are a lot of excellent dining options if you walk over to 9th Avenue or go a bit uptown or downtown from the fray.  And of course “Restaurant Row,” on 46th Street between 8th and 9th Avenues is always a good bet.  If you have the time, take a stroll and grab a bite at whatever place entices you.

TIP!  Most New York addresses, and certainly those in the Times Square vicinity, are usually on a street and listed between two avenues or on an avenue and listed between two streets.

And whether you’re a planner or not, here are some delectable options in and around Times Square:

Coffee

Okay, so after time living in both Australia and Italy, I admit it – I’m a coffee snob.  Both countries have a strong espresso culture, and I have one go-to place for coffee in the Times Square area:

Caffè Bene

1611 Broadway (corner of 49th and Broadway)

Yes, it’s a chain with several locations around the city and beyond.  However, they brew solid espresso-based drinks, and have ample seating and free WiFi, so it’s a great spot for a recharge or to pick up a coffee on the go.  Not too common around Times Square.

That said, you can get coffee at delis, street vendors and from the typical American chains all throughout Times Square if espresso drinks are not your thing.


Deli

Delis are great spots for bagels or other breakfast concoctions (omelettes, egg sandwiches, and more) made to order, and delis typically have a buffet in addition to made-to-order sandwiches for lunch and beyond.  The three options below are the Times Square area delis that I’ve enjoyed the most in my two decades of theater-going.

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Dunhill Cafe

109 W. 45th Street (between 6th and 7th)

This deli is great for their central location and seating.  It’s away from the fray and close to other deli options, so I don’t usually have trouble finding a seat, and enjoy the many breakfast and lunch options available.

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Green Apple

1625 Broadway (between 49th & 50th)

Green Apple is a bit uptown from the most central parts of Times Square, so tends to be less crowded.  And you know the food options are delicious when most of the people waiting in line with you on a weekday morning are regulars who greet the employees by name.  Most people take something to go, although occasionally I’ve taken advantage of their seating upstairs.

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Star Lite Deli

212 W. 44th Street (between 7th & 8th)

This spot does not have seating, however has quick service and a variety of options that make it worth a stop.  It’s another very central location, and the bagels are particularly good.


Street Vendors/Food Markets

Part of the energy of NYC comes from the ever-present street vendors, some that specialize only in roasted nuts or breakfast pastries, and others that resemble the single cuisine food trucks that have become trendy in the US in recent years.  And on a rainy day, or if you want to be able to sit at a table to eat, indoor food markets abound.

Food Trucks/Street Vendors

You can find street food all over Times Square (including in the central pedestrian area) but there are a few concentrations of food trucks and street vendors a bit away from the fray that are worth seeking out.  Bonus is that both spots listed below are also close to outdoor seating.

  • Bryant Park – The park spans W. 40th to 42nd Streets, between 5th and 6th There are many street vendors and food trucks that congregate there, as well as other casual eateries along the periphery of the park.  Grab a bite and enjoy it in the green surroundings for a bit of nature to counterbalance the bustle of Times Square.
  • Rockefeller Center – This is another area where you’ll find a number of street food options adjacent to one another, as well as outdoor seating to enjoy your meal. The most options I’ve seen recently have been on W. 49th Street between 5th and 6th
Food trucks by Rockefeller Center
Food trucks by Rockefeller Center

Gotham West Market

600 11th Avenue (between 44th & 45th)

This indoor market is the main one close to Times Square, and has lots of seating and a huge variety of food stalls to choose from.  Great for the solo traveller who wants to be in the middle of a bustling area or a group of people with different food preferences who all want to eat together.  From tacos to tapas to sushi to charcuterie, there is huge variety here.  The market also hosts one of my favorite ramen destinations in the city: Ivan Ramen Slurp Shop.  It’s a few avenues over from the main Times Square area, and definitely worth the walk.


Sit-Down Restaurants

I have dined and enjoyed many types of cuisines over the years in the Times Square vicinity, although the restaurants with staying power that are consistently delicious skew towards the ethnic.  The Thai restaurants in particular tend to be budget-friendly.  And all are delicious representations of the ethnic melting pot that is New York, and the delicious food that comes along with it.

Gastropub

West End

813 8th Avenue (corner of W. 49th)

This casual gastropub is a reasonably quick stop for a pre- or post-theater meal.  There is a variety of food options, including burgers and small plates, and I’ve enjoyed many tasty options over the years.

 

Korean

Danji

346 W. 52nd Street (between 8th & 9th)

It is no longer Michelin-starred, but this Korean eatery serves fabulous dishes and offers many vegetarian options.  I ate there on my most recent trip to NYC, and was wowed by each of the dishes.  I recommend reserving in advance, which you can do through their website linked above.

 

Mexican

El Centro

824 9th Avenue (corner of 54th)

I first stumbled upon El Centro due to its prominent corner location and lively atmosphere.  It offers down home Mexican cooking, covering the classic plates from tacos to quesadillas to empanadas to tamales.  A great budget choice that will fill you up and put a smile on your face.

 

Toloache

251 W. 50th Street (between Broadway and 8th)

This is my favorite Mexican restaurant in all of NYC, due to the solid flavors and innovative cooking without compromising the essentials.  It’s a bit pricier than some of my other picks in the Times Square area, but more than worth it.  Definitely reserve in advance, which you can do through the ‘Contact’ section of their website.

Toloache's version of flan
Toloache’s version of flan

Thai

Room Service

690 9th Avenue (between 47th & 48th)

Room Service serves really great Thai food in a chic atmosphere and at a reasonable price, especially for lunch.  Cocktails are also memorable.

 

Yum Yum

650 9th Avenue (between 45th & 46th)

662 9th Avenue (corner 46th)

This is probably the most famous of the Thai options near Times Square, since their popularity led them to open three different restaurants in close proximity to handle the ever-growing demand for their Thai creations.  Only two remain open, but they remain great budget options and are both located on the same stretch of 9th Avenue.

 

What Times Square eateries are your favorites?  What places didn’t make my list, but should have?  Tell me more in the Comments below.

In Times Square, NYC (1)

 

How to Theater Binge in NYC without Breaking the Bank

How to Theater Binge in NYC without Breaking the Bank

It was mid-afternoon on a brisk Christmas Eve day in 2006 and I was shivering as I walked with purpose through Manhattan’s theater district, amidst the bright lights and bustle of Times Square.  I had just arrived by bus in New York City, and the plan was to meet up with my sister and see a show together.  There was only one catch – we didn’t have tickets to anything.  Yet.

I was teaching high school at the time, so I was already on winter break.  My sister was at work that day, so getting theater tickets was all up to me.  Since it was the holiday season and the city was packed with out-of-towners and locals with days off, I knew that my usual methods for finding discounted tickets would be limited.  After a few failed inquiries at some theater box offices, I got in line for my old standby and perpetual backup: TKTS.  Most Broadway and Off-Broadway theaters work with TKTS to provide discounted tickets, usually at 25% or 50% off of the normal price.  Since there are so many shows playing at any one time, although the lines are long, while you may not get to see your top-choice show or pay your preferred ticket price, you’ll always get to see something.

It had been a little warmer walking over, but now that I was waiting in line, the cold started to set in despite my heavy coat, scarf, and many layers.  But it was okay, I was getting to see a show!  Then, when I was about 30 people from the front of the line, word passed back that TKTS was sold out.  I’m sorry, what?!?  I didn’t even know that TKTS *ever* sold out, although if it was going to happen it made sense that Christmas Eve would be the day.

And then it hit me – this was the end of my streak.  Ever since the first time I got rush tickets to see a Broadway show about ten years earlier (Chicago in 1997), every time I had come to New York planning to see theater, I had always managed to get tickets to something.  Not always the show I wanted to see and sometimes involving frantic subway rides to get to an obscure off-Broadway theater in time, but I always saw something.

What to do now?  I had several hours to brainstorm, and realized that there was one more chance to possibly see a show.  Avenue Q, which was still on Broadway at the time, had a lottery 2 hours before showtime, around 6pm (and neither of us had seen it yet).  Fortunately by that time my sister would be finished with work and we would then have 2 chances to win – each writing our name on a slip of paper and then names would be pulled from a large bucket until all of the seats allotted for the lottery were sold.  Of course, the odds were abysmal.  Lots of people who struck out with TKTS – and others who had just left the office – were also trying their luck for one of the only 20 seats available through the lottery.  And even on a regular theater-going day, I had tried (and failed) several times before to win the Avenue Q lottery.

As we wrote our names on the tiny slips of paper and added them to the overflowing pile of other entries, I knew the prospects were dim and mentally prepared myself for failure: coming into the city to see a show and not managing to get tickets to anything.  And then the inner monologue started.  What was I thinking?  Why didn’t I realize that it was harder than usual to get theater tickets on Christmas Eve and planned better?  Or arrived earlier?  Or why did I suggest seeing a show at all?  It would have been better to not have even made the attempt.  If I hadn’t tried and failed to get theater tickets, my streak would still be intact.  (This last one is a doozy, thanks inner voice.  For the record, I think it’s almost universally better to try at something, even if you fail.)

Fortunately, my thoughts didn’t have too much time to spiral any more out of control because it was time to pull names for the lottery.  I’m usually pretty calm after I turn in the slip of paper with my name, but once the show staffer starts churning the slips of paper to mix them up, the adrenaline starts pumping and I can feel my heart beating faster and faster in my chest.  The nerves are in full force and then my conscious effort is always focused on trying to appear calm even though I don’t feel that way inside at all.  Tracking each motion of pulling a slip of paper and unfolding it to announce the name of the next lottery winner as a poor attempt at keeping myself calm.

Then after the first few names are pulled and aren’t ours, I start mentally calculating how many available seats are left and trying to calm my adrenaline since winning the lottery is becoming increasingly unlikely.  Deep breath in, deep breath out.  And then with just a handful of seats still available, I hear “Cohen” and after a few seconds delay while my brain processes what it hear, realize that my sister’s name has been called.  A huge wave of relief washes over me.  I’m not sure if I’m more excited to get to see Avenue Q or to realize that yeah, the streak is still going strong!!

And a few hours later, Avenue Q is amazing and hilarious, and even outshines all of the hype and expectations I had built up ahead of time.  And TKTS was sold out, and I still was fortunate enough to get to see a show.  The joy of theater.

It’s now been another decade since my close call of almost not getting a ticket that chilly Christmas Eve, and I’m pleased to report that my streak is still alive and well.  I’ve never waited until the last-minute on a major holiday to get tickets again, and always have a contingency plan (or 5) to ensure that something will work itself out.  And even though some times recently I have had to revert to a Plan B or Plan C, I always get to see something.

But how do I do it exactly?  And how do I see all these shows without racking up hundreds of dollars in credit card bills?

The New York Times gives a great, colorful overview of theater offerings every weekend
The New York Times gives a great, colorful overview of theater offerings every weekend

Practical Info

For those in the know, there are a lot of ways to get discounted tickets for Broadway and Off-Broadway shows, here’s how to make it happen:

In advance

Not everyone likes to (or can) wait until the same day to purchase their theater tickets.  For the security of having your discounted tickets purchased ahead of time, there are several options at your disposal:

Tix 4 Students – If you are an undergraduate or graduate student (anywhere in the world!) and can verify it, you’re eligible for this one.  There is a $7 fee and membership is good for at least 6 months.  Once you’re a member, you have exclusive access to affordable student tickets for theater.  You can see the current tickets available and prices here.


HIPTIX – This is a program of the Roundabout Theatre Company for 18-35 year olds.  While it is limited to their own productions, there are multiple Roundabout productions each season, that are typically of very high quality.  The best part?  Joining is FREE.  And it gets you the opportunity to purchase tickets for you (and a guest of any age) for only $25 each, and there are spots reserved for HIPTIX for every show.  If you want access to premium seats, there is access to annual Gold and Platinum levels with a donation to Roundabout.

TIP! Buy tickets early to ensure you can see the show you want on your preferred date.


LincTix – Similar to HIPTIX but for 21-35 year olds, LincTix is a program of the Lincoln Center Theater, which is also known for its high-quality productions each season.  It is also FREE to join, with a number of $32 tickets set aside for each performance.  Different from the HIPTIX program however, any guests must also be LincTix members.

TIP! Same as for HIPTIX: buy tickets early to ensure you can see the show you want on your preferred date.

A variety of Broadway ticket stubs I've racked up on the cheap since living in Milan (including HIPTIX & LincTix!)
A variety of Broadway ticket stubs I’ve racked up on the cheap since living in Milan (including HIPTIX & LincTix!)

Discount Codes – These days I have mostly seen discount codes online through TheaterMania, Today Tix, and Broadway Box.  I prefer the first two sites, as they list tickets by purchase price, while Broadway Box lists the amount of the discount.  There are usually service fees added to the ticket price when you buy online, although in some cases you can save on the fees by buying tickets in advance in-person at the box office with the discount code (I did this recently for an off-Broadway show and saved over $20 in fees for our group of 4 people).


Rear Mezzanine & Partial View seats – They won’t be the best seats in the house, but the Rear Mezzanine section has the most affordable of the regular-price tickets, and can be purchased online through the vendor listed on the show’s official website or at the box office.  So if there are no available discounted options for something you definitely want to see, this is the way to go.  Often there are also Partial View seats, which are sometimes only available for purchase in-person at the box office, which you can also do in advance.  And with Partial View seats, you usually don’t miss much.

TIP!  Always ask what is blocked by the Partial View seats before committing to purchase.  Sometimes it just involves leaning forward in your seat to get the full view, other times you’ll miss some of the action.

Same Day

When I first became an avid NYC theater-goer in the late 1990s, rush tickets were pretty much the only same-day discount option available at the box office.  Then with RENT’s meteoric popularity, so many people were sleeping outside of the box office nightly to have a shot at rush tickets the following morning that RENT instituted Broadway’s first in-person lottery to sell 20 seats in the first two rows of the Orchestra section, for $20 each (oh, those were the days).

Seen as a more democratic option, many shows shifted to an in-person lottery over rush tickets in the early 2000s.  And even more recently, shows have shifted from the chaos of the in-person lottery to the ease of administration of a digital lottery. Read more about the history of Broadway discount tickets here.

TIP!  While several websites listing various rush and lottery policies have come and gone, the only one I’ve seen lately with up-to-date information about rush, lottery, and standing room ticket policies is at through Playbill.  You can also always check a particular show’s official website for discount ticket details.

TIP!  Some box offices will only take cash for rush and/or lottery tickets, so read their policies ahead of time, and have enough cash on hand to make your purchase.

Your options:

Rush lines on both sides of the street
Rush lines on both sides of the street

Rush tickets – A certain number of tickets – which can even be in the Orchestra section – are set aside to be sold as “rush” tickets for certain shows, at their discretion.  At one time a student ID was needed to purchase most rush tickets, although these days it’s typically open to anyone.  And for most productions, each person can buy up to 2 rush tickets.  Rush tickets are sold on a first-come, first-served basis when the Box Office opens (usually at 10am, can be later on weekends), so there is often a line starting at 9am or earlier.

TIP!  If you can, stop by the Box Office before the day you’d like rush tickets so you can ask when the line usually starts forming and you can decide when to arrive.


In-person Lotteries These days the digital lottery is king, so I can count on one hand which shows still offer an in-person lottery.  These typically take place outside the theater, with names being pulled around 2 hours before showtime.

TIP!  Come prepared with a photo ID.  It will be necessary to show ID after a lottery win to purchase your tickets, to make sure it matches the name you wrote on the slip.

TIP! Have a plan for a quick lunch or dinner since the in-person lottery drawing takes place so close to show time.


Digital Lotteries – These are the easiest to join and the hardest to win.  Instead of discount tickets being sold to people in-person at the theater, anyone in the NYC metro area who can make it to the theater within 3 hours can enter digital lotteries every day – and many do.  When Fun Home first debuted on Broadway, I was told that 10,000 people entered the digital lottery daily, for only 20 seats.  The odds for Hamilton’s digital lottery are equally bleak for their 21 lottery seats. Certainly if I lived in the New York City area though, I’d be entering digital lotteries daily.  A few shows operate their digital lotteries through the TodayTix app, and others do it independently, linked from the official show website.


Standing Room Only (SRO) tickets – Usually SRO tickets are only available if a show is sold out, which doesn’t happen as often as you’d think.  Unless a show is sold out early in the day, you may be cutting it very close and possibly not get a ticket at all.

TIP!  Ask at the box office if a show is already sold out or close, before counting on being able to purchase SRO tickets.


The TKTS booth at Times Square

The TKTS booth at Times Square

TKTS – If you read my narrative above, you know that TKTS is typically my last-resort option for discount tickets.  Why is that?  The lines are long, and the discounts aren’t usually that great compared to the price you can find using one of the other methods above.  I think it’s been at least a decade since I’ve bought a theater ticket through TKTS.

So what is the advantage of TKTS?

  • the seats are usually better than what you can get through rush or the lottery, as this is a main way theaters fill premium seats that are unsold the morning before a performance
  • you can buy up to 6 tickets per person waiting in line, which is great for families or larger groups
  • additional discounted tickets can be released throughout the day, so sometimes you can get better deals without waking up early or being first in line
  • if you are in New York but not close to Times Square, you can take advantage of purchasing tickets at one of their other TKTS locations, either at the South Street Seaport or in Downtown Brooklyn.

TIP!  The TKTS app shows wait times for each of their locations and a list of shows being sold each day.

Have you used one of these methods for theater tickets in NYC?  What’s your preferred way to get a good deal?  Or have you had a similarly panicked experience trying to get same-day theater tickets?

Tell me more in the Comments below.

How To (2)

 

Travel Checklists & Why Even the Most Experienced Traveler Needs Them

Travel Checklists & Why Even the Most Experienced Traveler Needs Them

We’ve all been there. You think you’ve packed everything, done a thorough check, and then ten minutes after you’ve left for the airport you remember – that key item you meant to bring, that will now sit at home for the duration of your time away. Sometimes for me it’s even hours later that I suddenly realize in a panic what it is that I’ve forgotten.

Fortunately it’s usually some non-essential item I can do without. And after that one time in Washington, DC that I forgot my passport at home (and very luckily had time to metro back, retrieve it, and still make my flight), I always do a final check walking out the door that at a minimum I have my passport and ATM/credit cards so I have a way to buy anything else I may have forgotten.

But the danger area for so many travelers – and especially us frequent travelers – is that you get complacent and have this false sense of security that you know what you’re doing when booking travel. Which is of course when you make the most egregious oversights and end up stuck with an inconvenient travel itinerary or miserable hotel booking. Checklists may seem elementary, but even experts get better results by using them, as many doctors can attest to.

This past summer, when in the course of a week I had inadvertently booked a smoking hotel room & a friend who’s also a frequent traveler booked a flight for 6am instead of 6pm, I knew that I had to put up some booking checklists on the website, both for me and also for all those other travelers out there. Before clicking that “confirm” button to commit to a flight booking or hotel reservation, run through the relevant checklist now in the Travel Savvy Gal ‘Travel Resources’ section:

Travel Checklist: Booking Flights

Before purchasing your next flight, do a quick check of these items, especially if you’re comparing the costs of multiple itineraries

Travel Checklist: Booking Accommodations

Things to check to ensure you don’t have any unpleasant surprises when you arrive on holiday

Travel Checklist: To Do List (Pre-Trip)

Things to check or look into *before* you take your next trip

Travel Checklist: Packing Must Haves (everything else you can buy in a pinch)

Your last reality check before you walk out the door

 

What is on *your* travel checklist??

Top 10 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Naples

Top 10 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Naples

1.  Coffee

Of course, caffe’ simply means espresso, and is excellent all over Italy. So what makes coffee in Naples so special? Like the locals, coffee is surprisingly strong and concentrated. Due to its strength, it is usually served with water from a filtered tap by the bar, which you should drink before the coffee.

2.  Nocciola

Although nocciola (hazelnut) is typically grown in the Piedmont region of northwestern Italy, this is a coffee drink that was invented in Naples, and involves espresso mixed with a whipped hazelnut cream, a perfect flavor pairing if you ask me. You can get it in a glass, or ‘in cialda’, a cup-shaped wafer lined with chocolate.

3.  Taralli

Taralli are circular or oval-shaped breadsticks, sometimes with multiple strands of dough twisted together. The Napoletano variation usually has lard and pepper, sometimes decorated with nuts. They are widely available at passticcierie throughout Naples.

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4.  Pizza

Neapolitan pizza is famous all over the world, and a must-eat item for any trip to Naples, no matter how short. Competing claims about first/oldest/best pizzeria abound, and any time you visit you’re likely to be subjected to a long line snaking outside and down the street for the most famous, central places. Every pizza maker has his or her own philosophy about dough and toppings (some places only serve the basic margherita pizza with tomato, mozzarella, and basil), so find a place that appeals to you and dig in – in true Italian fashion, of course, with a fork and knife.

Fried pizza 20151024_133201

5.  Fried pizza

Yes, this is a different category than your regular pizza pie. While the method is similar, there are usually two different discs of dough, with toppings in between, and then the result is deep-fried until there is a crispy, golden-brown, bubbled crust. The taste sensation is quite different from your usual pizza, but equally delicious.

Friggeteria 20151026_125310

6.  Fried food

Aside from fried pizza, there are many fried treats to enjoy around Naples, and you’ll usually smell the delicious aromas as you walk around. Some tempting items you’ll find fried around town include pasta, rice, polenta, eggplant, and zucchini blossoms. There is just something about warm climates and fried food that go so well together, making a meal or snack of fried goodies especially satisfying.

7.  Buffalo mozzarella (or any fresh mozzarella)

You’ll see the name as ‘mozzarella di bufala di campania,’ meaning buffalo mozzarella from the region of Italy – Campania – where Naples is located. While a bit more sour than your typical mozzarella, the quality of what you can get locally will eclipse any mozzarella you’ve had before.

Sfogliatella 20151025_114728

8.  Sfogliatella

I don’t typically like desserts with any trace of citrus, but sfogliatella is an a league of its own. It is an enclosed crispy, phyllo-like pastry layered in the shape of a seashell, with a ricotta and orange filling. However, when you bite into a good version, you sense the textural contrast between the crispy outside and smooth inside, with the perfect balance of tart and sweet flooding your taste buds.

Baba' 20151025_101735

9.  Babà

I find the best versions of this rum cake are incredibly light and oozing delicious rum syrup every time you slice it with your fork. I like the regular-size ones the best, for the ratio of the thin outer layer to soft inside, but you can also find babà mignon, the mini version.

10.  Limoncello

Southern Italy has an ideal climate for growing lemons, and the abundance around Naples has led to a local digestivo (digestive aid, usually consumed after lunch or dinner). Typically bright yellow in color, the combination of simple syrup, intense lemon flavor, and hard alcohol will help close out any delicious meal in Naples – just enough that you can appreciate your meal without feeling too full.

What is aperitivo (and why are you not enjoying one)?

What is aperitivo (and why are you not enjoying one)?

If you visit pretty much anywhere in Italy these days, you’ll see locals enjoying an aperitivo, or aper, in the early evening starting around 6pm and lasting until 9 or 10pm. While the exact origins of the aperitivo tradition are disputed, aperitivo is considered to have taken off in Milan in the 1920s and Milan is still considered to be the “capital” of aper. Nowadays it is more typical to find aperitivo in the north of Italy, although I’ve had quite a few in Tuscany as well.

While the word aperitivo – or aperitif in French – means a beverage to have before your meal, in recent years it has evolved to bars/restaurants trying to one-up one another with the assortment of free food, sometimes even a full buffet that is included in the (slightly-higher-than-usual) cost of your drink. Don’t worry, in Italy a “pricey” drink runs about 10 Euros. And some, but not all places will offer a discount for your second drink, the seconda consumazione.

So what does one drink for aperitivo?

Probably the most visually identifiable aperitivo beverage is the spritz, made with prosecco, soda and either Aperol (bright orange) or Campari (red). Both Aperol and Campari, now owned by the same company, are forms of bitters. The idea is that the bitterness of the drink will act as an opener for your stomach, stimulating hunger to get you ready to eat dinner. And aperitivo drinks, like the spritz, typically have low alcohol content.

Ita Firenze April 2014image (11)

The negroni is another typical, bitter aperitivo drink made with Campari. The traditional negroni is made with gin, vermouth, and Campari, and is not for the faint of heart! I’ve ordered this a few times, and it usually takes until I’m most of the way through the drink until I can savor the bittnerness and not just have my lips pucker with each sip.

And there is of course the negroni sbagliato (a “wrong” or “mistaken” negroni), that was born of an accidental pouring of prosecco instead of gin at Bar Basso in Milan in 1968.

As for me, I tend to stick with either prosecco, a glass of wine, or the Aperol spritz. For me, the Aperol spritz was an acquired taste, but now I love them – it strikes just the right balance between bitter and aromatic.

 

And what kind of food might be included as part of aperitivo?

In general, beverages are not served without some kind of snack. At the most basic level, when you order a drink at any time of day, it usually arrives with some combination of olives, nuts, and potato chips.

Ita Naples lungomare 20151025_185631

 

For an advertised aperitivo, there is usually a small plate or tray of small bites delivered to the table or a full buffet of food where you can help yourself. Especially for those places offering a food buffet, aperitivo has evolved into an apericena, a blending with cena, the word for dinner.

Ita Milan aper 20160727_201029 Ita Milan aper 20160727_201043

Apericena describes a buffet that is intended to be a substitute for dinner because there is enough food to call it a meal. This is a quite popular way for students or others struggling to make ends meet in Milan of having a satisfying meal without spending much money.

TIP! Since snack plates or buffet spreads can vary widely, it is always a good idea to take a walk inside to look at the food being offered before committing to stay for an aperitivo, especially if you’re planning on it being your dinner.

What if you don’t live in Italy, and won’t be visiting any time soon?

Don’t worry, an aperitivo can be just as refreshing (and appetite-stimulating) at home. Even though I live in the ‘aperitivo capital’ of Milan, lately I’m much more likely to have at least an aperitivo beverage in the comfort of my apartment. I keep a bottle of prosecco and some Aperol handy, and you can do the same for the ingredients in your aperitivo beverage of choice, so supplies are always on hand to mark the end of the work day and lead into dinner with an aperitivo drink.

And if you live in the US or will be going there soon, the spritz (and its many possible variations) is starting to become trendy and more available. The New York Times gives a good overview of how the spritz is evolving and where you can sample some of the variations stateside.

What are your thoughts on the spritz and negroni? Or do you have another preferred aperitivo drink? And has anyone sampled (or made their own!) spritz variations?

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