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The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

Valpolicella and Soave are two of my favorite Italian wine regions, and conveniently both are a short distance outside the inviting Italian town of Verona, not far from Venice. The Valpolicella region to the north of Verona specializes in various red wines with a unique production method, while the Soave region to the east produces some lovely white wines. Most consider the Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany to be the two areas with the best producers, especially for Italian reds. While both of those regions are relatively close to Milan, it was actually the Valpolicella region where I ended up most often during my three years living in Italy, usually with visitors.

The reds of Valpolicella are in a slightly different style than Super Tuscans or a Piemontese Barolo, but can be more fruity and jammy, and in general more approachable. And I know several wine lovers whose favorite Italian reds come from this area, and these are certainly some of my favorites as well. Since the wine regions around Verona are less frequented by tourists than some of the other areas, it is easier to pop into a cantina without a reservation and taste wine. And you can find delicious wines at a great value, I’d definitely recommend planning to purchase wine as you taste, and having a plan for transporting the bottles back home.

Welcome to Valpolicella wine region Italy (2)

In terms of the Valpolicella region, you’ll typically see 4 main types of red wine as well as a dessert wine called Recioto. All of these are made with different combinations and processing methods of the same main grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella (and sometimes Corvinone). The first, most basic wine is called Valpolicella Classico, the classic version that is not usually aged at all. The Valpolicella Superiore, or superior version, does undergo some aging, and is intended to be a more refined version of Valpolicella.

The fourth wine (yes, I skipped #3 on purpose) called Amarone is where the typical drying process of the Valpolicella region comes into play. When the grapes are harvested in the fall, usually around September or October, instead of being pressed right away, they are spread out and left to dry for several months, which intensifies the flavor of the grapes. Then sometime around January the grapes will actually be pressed and begin the multi-year aging process. Ripasso then is partway between a Valpolicella Superiore and an Amarone, since it involves the leftover pressed grapes from Amarone being mixed with Valpolicella Classico wine. The dessert wine Recioto is more similar to the straight Amarone, with residual sugars for sweetness (and this can vary from quite sweet to more balanced depending on the producer).

You might think that because of the somewhat linear progression of red wine production in Valpolicella, that everyone would like Amarone the best, then Ripasso, and so on. But that’s actually not how things shake out at all! Even without taking external factors like winery and the harvest year into play, some wine lovers prefer Ripasso while others prefer Amarone, depending on their personal tastes. Then when you consider the year of production and each winemaker’s approach, your favorite at a particular winery might be the Valpolicella Classico or Superiore. It all depends.

Which is why I advocate for doing a wine tasting when you visit, even if you’ve been before, since you may prefer different wines than last time (even at the same winery). Usually with each visit I was trying the wines from a different production year, and I’ve made repeat visits to most of the wineries on this list. So I’ve tasted different versions of the same wine over the years depending on what has recently been bottled and is available. Even at the same producer, my tastes as to which wines are my favorite have typically changed with each season. So taste before you buy, every time you go.

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That same advice holds true for the Soave region on the other side of Verona: taste during each visit, as the wine changes quite a bit from year to year, even at the same producer. Soave itself is a white wine made principally from the Garganega grape, although other white grapes are sometimes included in small amounts. Like with Valpolicella reds, there are different levels of Soave – including a Superiore – depending on whether it is aged and the details of the blend.

Many Soave wineries also have vineyards in the area growing red grapes as well, so even if you go to taste white wines, you’ll be able to try their various Valpolicella reds as well. You don’t see much Soave wine in Valpolicella, although some of those wineries will produce other types of white wine. And a recent trend in the Valpolicella region is to use the same Amarone process of drying the grapes for months, but with different types of red grapes than you’d typically see, resulting in some of my favorite sips.

I’ve had some pretty fabulous wine tastings in the Valpolicella and Soave regions over my many visits. Here are my favorite places to go, listed alphabetically by region:

Valpolicella

Accordini Igino

 

Accordini Igino Valpolicella wine Italy DSC_0166

Reservations: Not needed Mon-Fri, Required on Saturday

Tasting: Free, can also reserve a paid tasting paired with local food products

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

The staff is friendly and welcoming at this nearly 200-year old winery, with a light and inviting tasting room. The red wines typical of the region are solid, and they produce a few other white and red wines. I especially like their Recioto dessert wine, which isn’t sickly sweet but actually quite well-balanced.

Manara

Manara winery Valpolicella Italy DSC_0176

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Bianco del Veneto, Rosso del Veneto, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

If you’re a non-Italian speaker, be sure to contact the winery in advance, as the one person in the tasting room does not always speak English. Their Valpolicella range is quite good, as is their Bianco del Veneto, or white wine from the region. But my absolute favorite, and the wine I can’t get enough of is their Rosso del Veneto, a jammy red produced from non-typical grapes in the Valpolicella style of drying the grapes first to intensify the flavors. Even if it’s not offered, be sure to ask to taste this gem, the Guido Manara!

Scriani

Scriani winery Fumane Valpolicella Italy (2)

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

This family-run winery is welcoming, and has a beautiful tasting room and cellar where you’ll taste the wines. I think I’ve visited at least three or four times, and I like their wines better each time I go. Their straight Corvina is quite good, along with the full line of Valpolicella wines.

Speri

Speri winery Valpolicella Italy DSC_0180

Reservations: Not needed, although there is the option to book in advance to visit the cellar

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Sant’Urbano, Amarone, Recioto

Another family-run place, there are usually several people on hand to provide a tasting, and I’ve never had to wait more than a few minutes for an English-speaking member of the family to guide me and my visitors. The wines are excellent, and I especially like their Sant’Urbano, which is partway between a Ripasso and an Amarone in taste. They have an excellent annual olive oil production for the family, with excess bottles on sale at the winery, so take advantage if they’re still available when you go.

Soave

Cantina di Soave

Cantina di Soave 20141016_155217

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting of 5 wines, for a modest fee

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

Founded in the late 1800s, this cantina, or winery, is actually a collective of grape producers from the area, with all grapes having to meet minimum quality requirements to be used in their production. You’ll only taste a handful of wines at the end of the tour, but they are delicious, and the winery offers a wider range of wines for purchase in their shop. And the winery itself is quite beautiful.

Monte Tondo

Reservations: Not needed, although it does get crowded sometimes; must reserve for tour

Tasting: Free, fee for the tour + tasting

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

The experience visiting Monte Tondo without a reservation has been varied for me, depending on the number of other guests. If it’s not crowded, you’ll get very attentive pours and descriptions, and it can be more rushed if you’re there during a busy period or when there is a group also visiting. It’s still a good option to drop in and sample a variety of Soave whites, although there is the possibility of guaranteeing dedicated attention by reserving a formal tour and tasting with cheese and charcuterie pairing for a fee.

TIP! Other than the dates of Cantine Aperte in May and September, most wineries are closed on Sundays.

If you’ve never tried a Valpolicella red wine or a Soave white, buy a bottle (or several) to try the next time you’re at the store. And if you’re planning a trip to Italy or happen to live nearby, the wine regions around Verona are fabulous spots to go wine tasting, even if you haven’t planned anything in advance.

Happy tasting!

Lana

Any questions you still have about wine tasting in Valpolicella and Soave? Other favorite wineries you think belong on this list? Hit me up with any questions or intel you have about the region and its wines in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Wineries to Visit in the Valpolicella and Soave Regions of Italy

The Best Advice to Travel More

The Best Advice to Travel More

“Oh, but we were going to come visit you.”

It’s a refrain I’ve heard again and again since moving back to the US from Milan, coming from many sources, from one of my sisters to friends I didn’t even know were contemplating a trip. Apparently all of these people had the best of intentions of making a trip to Italy for a visit, but never quite got around to it.

In Australia, I understood. Living in Perth for just over a year, it was hard for my American family and friends to plan a visit. From the northeast United States, it’s about 30 hours of flying – one way! – to arrive in Perth. By the time anyone could have reasonably planned a trip, I was no longer living there.

But Milan was a different story. Easily accessible by a direct flight from the US, it was pretty straightforward for Americans to plan a visit. In fact, over my three years living in Milan, visitors came from all over the United States, other parts of Europe, Asia, and even Australia (those Aussies sure love to travel).

Milan Italy Castello 2014-02-24 18.17.05

So how is it possible that with guests streaming in from multiple continents that so many people did not make it for a visit?

The short answer? They failed to adhere to an important principle that avid travelers embrace: Just go.

There are always a million and one reasons *not* to take that trip. From the cost of traveling to taking time off of work, there are all sorts of logical-sounding justifications as to why that vacation just can’t happen. People with children complain that they can’t travel with them and that they’re too young to leave behind. Of course, my position is that you should travel anyway. Especially if you happen to know someone living in a place you’ve never visited.

If there’s anything I’ve learned in my years of travel (and having friends move to different cities and countries), it’s that even when people think they know how long they’ll be living somewhere, they usually don’t. Life happens, jobs change, people transfer universities, and move for love. Often unexpectedly and sometimes suddenly.

Which brings me to the best travel advice I can give:

When you have a friend or family member that moves to a new place, VISIT. As soon as you can.

I loved living and Milan and Italy, and am sad that more friends who had been meaning to take that trip to visit me one day did not get the opportunity while I was still there. Of course, you can always visit a destination even if you no longer know someone living there, but the experience will just not be the same. I say that it’s worth prioritizing travel to a new place when you know someone who lives there and that knowing a local will help keep costs down. I say that you can come with or without your kids, but you should still plan to go. So if you’ve been talking about visiting that friend who moved somewhere new (but you just haven’t gotten around to it), yes, I’m talking to you!

There are many upsides to visiting friends and family that have moved somewhere new. First, knowing someone in your destination can make your trip more affordable. Even if you have to shell out for a train ride or airfare to arrive, you’ll get more bang for your buck once you get there, especially if you can stay overnight with friends or family for free. Or share home-cooked meals together, eliminating the expense of eating out for at least part of your visit. Plus, while you’re there, you’ll have a local to show you around, getting an insider perspective on a destination, even if they are a transplant to the area and still exploring themselves.

When I have a friend who moves to a new place, I’m the kind of person who immediately starts strategizing about how to travel there. Especially if I know at the start that they may not live there for very long. It’s a great excuse to make it for a visit to a new destination and wonderful to share that with someone you already know.

There were the extended weekends I took while living in the US before to visit friends in Dallas and Minneapolis (and good thing I did, as neither stayed for longer than a few years). Before the start of my 5-week solo travel in Mexico, I visited a friend for a few days who was temporarily living in Mexico City. Even during college, I jumped on a plane and visited friends who were studying abroad in London and Amsterdam.

UK London Tower Bridge 20160703_165340

Living in Italy these past few years, I popped in to stay for a weekend with friends who I met in Milan that later moved on to live in London, Frankfurt, Geneva, and Tirana. I made it a priority to get to see Bucharest and some surrounding parts of Romania with a friend who’s from there originally. As well as visiting Hong Kong, Israel, and Singapore while friends and relatives were living there.

So, who of my friends and family did the same, and actually made it to Milan while I was there?

There wasn’t a single type of visitor. Friends visited solo and as couples, some friends came with their kids, while others with children left their kids behind in their grandparents’ care. Friends came who had high-powered jobs they had stepped away from as well as teacher friends who were off for the summer. Some visitors came as part of a trip to celebrate an anniversary or other milestone and others just jumped on dates when they saw the latest flight deal to Milan. Plenty of people visited (which I loved!) but there were also plenty who did not.

How can YOU make traveling to visit friends living in new places a reality?

It’s not that complicated, I swear! Of course you need to know where friends and family are living, and be willing to actually plan your visit, but beyond that it doesn’t take much. A little bit of organization goes a long way, and there’s really not much that separates me popping in on friends all over and those who stay home and wish they had taken that trip.

Here are a few pretty simple things to keep in mind to put good intentions into action:

  • Stay in touch with friends and family, and know where people are. If you already know all of the cool places where you know someone, you’re ahead of the curve!
  • Lock down dates on the calendar for a visit. Yes, life gets crazy sometimes and people have different work and travel schedules, so sometimes coordination can be tricky. It helps to start asking early so you can block off time that is good for both of you.NOTE: This is where a lot of travel planning falls apart. You ask about dates, your e-mail gets buried in someone’s inbox, and then you forget to follow up. Happens all the time, myself included. So when you send your initial message, jot down a quick note to follow up in a few days or a week if you haven’t heard anything, that way a date for visiting actually gets set at some point without falling by the wayside.
  • Even if someone tells you they expect to be somewhere for a few years or longer, still plan your trip ASAP. In my experience, people often think they know about timing, but life is too unexpected to wait. If they’re really there as long as they expect and you had a good time on your first visit, you can always plan a return trip later 😉
  • Be a good guest! At a minimum, do whatever amount of advance planning is needed so you’re not a burden on your generous host. Depending on work schedules and children or other commitments, hosts may have the flexibility to spend every minute with you or may need to send you off exploring on your own at different points in time. Come prepared.

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For me now, some of my new travel priorities are based on where I know people and can get to relatively easily from my current home in Baltimore. There is the weekend I hope to spend in Detroit, Michigan sometime soon, where a friend recently moved and I’ve never been. Along with getting to Denver, Colorado, where my sister expects to move soon. It will be new to me, as I’ve only transited in the airport before. I want to be sure to catch them, so those are both trips I hope to take in the next six months or so.

Where do you have (or will have) friends and family living? Make a plan to go!

And friends – if you’ve never been to Baltimore, come visit. I don’t have any plans to leave, but hey, you never know =)

How do you plan where you’ll visit next? Have you ever visited a new place just because of a friend or relative who moved there? What’s your best piece of advice to get out there and take that next trip? Share away in the Comments below!

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The Best Advice to Travel More

Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

A friend first sang Oman’s praises around two years ago, talking about this country as being unspoiled Middle East. Then last April my sister had a similarly wonderful experience. After my December road trip there with my other sister, I too came back raving about this lesser-visited corner of the Middle East. So much so that Oman made my list of Top 10 Destinations for 2017, and I keep recommending it when people ask for somewhere ‘off the beaten path’ to go. But just because you won’t find Oman inundated with tourists doesn’t mean that it’s any less stunning than other nearby destinations. It’s less commercialized than other countries in the region, making it a more authentic-feeling experience. And the Omani hospitality is incredible everywhere, so you can’t help but to feel welcome when you visit.

The highlights of my week-long visit vary from natural attractions to modern buildings to UNESCO World Heritage sites dating back millenia, and I don’t exaggerate when I say that each was a special experience during my time in Oman:

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Muscat Oman 20161205_091718Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Muscat Oman DSC_0739Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque Muscat Oman DSC_0709

This mosque in Oman’s capital city of Muscat is part of a huge and breathtakingly beautiful complex of prayer rooms, pathways, and gardens. The main prayer room is notable for having the second-largest chandelier and carpet in the world, and this is certainly where you’ll find the largest concentration of tourists. But the complex is vast enough that you can be alone for a lot of your wandering, just taking in the small details of every architectural feature and decorative element. And despite being only about 20 years old, the mosque transmits a strong sense of history as you explore. It’s also stunning when lit up at night.

Al Alam Royal Palace

Al Alam Royal Sultan Palace Muscat Oman DSC_0542Al Alam Royal Sultan Palace Muscat Oman DSC_0610

I knew in advance that there would be no possibility of visiting the inside of the Sultan’s palace in Muscat, so I expected that it would be a quick stop to snap a few photos and then continue on. But like many things in Oman, there is more beauty to take in than you ever could have expected. You’ll know you’re looking at a picture of the Sultan’s Palace by its distinctive bright colors, but of course it is not just a single building but a huge area with many buildings and broad pedestrian walkways leading up to the palace. Close to the water, there are also several former Portuguese forts that are visible on the nearby hills.

Walk to Sawadi Island

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Yes, you read that correctly, we walked to an island! About an hour’s drive north of Muscat along the Omani coast are a series of islands, and during low tide you can make your way across on foot from Al Sawadi beach. This was one of my Travel Superlatives for 2016, as one of the most adventurous things I did all year. My sister and I crossed about two hours before low-tide, and the water level reached just above the knees for both of us, and then returned on foot in shallower water close to low tide and sunset. Fortunately we both had our water-ready sport sandals on, and so when we arrived on the island, we were able to hike to the top of the island’s hill where there is a fort complex to explore. And the best part? It was a weekday and we had the island all to ourselves.

Forts and Castles

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It’s sometimes hard to distinguish between the forts and castles (and some structures were used as both at different points in time), but there are hundreds across Oman and you’ll definitely see quite a few during your visit. I certainly didn’t know to expect one walking to Sawadi island, and they turned up unexpectedly many times during the trip. Although I did visit the Bahla Fort, one of the UNESCO-designated ones, there was poor signage in most places, which took away from the visit. The Nizwa Fort is also notable, with a distinctive cylindrical tower and close to a centrally located town where we spent a couple of nights. Certainly my favorite one to visit was the Jabreen (Jibreen) Castle, which has extensive signage and explanations of the different areas, and also has a lot of original decorative elements still visible.

Jabal Shams & the Grand Canyon of Oman

Jabal Shams Grand Canyon of Oman DSC_0050Jabal Shams Grand Canyon of Oman DSC_0086

This mountainous area northwest of Nizwa known as the Jabal Shams contains many peaks as well as deep valleys and canyons, the area known as the Grand Canyon of Oman. Accessible only by a 4×4 vehicle, you’ll either need to have rented one or hire your own tour guide. There is some information you can get at your accommodations in terms of hiking routes, although if you are not especially comfortable on your own you’ll want to hire a guide. Definitely spend a day here, wandering the hiking trails, taking in the views, and seeing some of the water-blessed areas sprinkled throughout.

Aflaj, Oman’s Ancient Irrigation Channels

Aflaj irrigation system Oman UNESCO DSC_0145Aflaj irrigation system Oman UNESCO DSC_0450Aflaj irrigation system Oman UNESCO DSC_0973

Aflaj is the plural of falaj, the local name for a single ancient irrigation channel. The aflaj system throughout Oman and dating back around 2,000 years is so remarkable that it has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I too was wowed by its ingenuity. These clever channels are no longer used as a water source for drinking, but still to this day capture and funnel water for different farming purposes and even to fill pools for swimming. Typically there are stones that are fit to the gaps between different channels, allowing for control of the water flow depending on the needs of the moment. The simplicity and elegance of this ancient system for me rivaled the aqueducts of the Roman Empire, and I loved being able to see them in different parts of the country. The most intricate falaj I saw was at Misfat al Abriyyin, although they are also visible at Falaj Daris Park by Nizwa, and in several wadis, inlcuding Wadi Bani Khalid (see more below).

Stay Overnight in the Desert

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Oman, like other countries in the Middle East, is comprised of quite a few desert areas that still have nomadic peoples wandering through. There are also a number of options for staying overnight in the desert, from desert camps where you’ll stay in a tent to regular hotel rooms that are simply far away from the rest of civilization. I love staying in tents whenever I can, for the peace of the desert at night and for visibility of the stars on a clear night.

Wadi Bani Khalid

Wadi Bani Khalid Oman 20161209_113652Wadi Bani Khalid Oman DSC_0427

This is the destination for a popular weekend trip, even for those who live several hundred kilometers away in Muscat. The waters in this desert oasis are ample year-round, and there are quite a lot of marked trails and a couple of restaurants on site to cater to all the visitors. This wadi is known for its caves, which remain difficult to access unless you find a hospitable Omani like we did, and for its connected pools where you can do a water hike between the different levels. As many locals come here – especially on the weekend of Friday and Saturday – be sure to dress modestly, even for the time you’ll spend in the water swimming. Like many wadis, the water here is filled with fish that will give you a natural pedicure by nibbling off the dead skin on your feet. I tried this, but decided that the sensation was just not for me, although most people seemed to enjoy (or at least tolerate) the nibbling for the smooth feet you’ll get if you’re patient.

Bimmah Sinkhole

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Called the “world’s most stunning sinkhole” by the Daily Mail, this sinkhole about an hour’s drive south of Muscat along the coast is a burst of turquoise beauty in the middle of an otherwise arid region. Especially on the weekend, it’s a destination for locals, expats, and tourists alike, jumping off into the deep well that for me was reminiscent of a Mexican cenote. Like other nearby bodies of water, the fish that eat the dead skin off your feet are here as well, so you can treat yourself to a natural pedicure even if you don’t join in the swimming. It’s also a popular spot for a picnic and even has visitor facilities.

Eat Omani Food (this will not be easy!)

 

Shuwa Omani food 20161205_132021Halwa Omani food 20161210_083152

One of the more surprising things about visiting Oman was how challenging it was to find Omani food. Omanis typically eat at home, and like some of its Middle Eastern neighbors, Oman has a lot of workers from other countries that seek out their home cuisine. Which means that it is easier to find Indian or Lebanese dishes than ones native to the area. That said, Oman has been at the crossroads of trading routes for quite a long time, so the cuisine is comprised of a mix of influences, including some Omani versions of curry. One of the most typical Omani things I ate were halwa, a date-based sweet spread often flavored with rosewater. Also typical was shuwa, a dish made from meat that has been spiced, wrapped in banana leaves, and buried with hot ashes underground to cook for 24 hours.

Enjoy Omani Coffee and Dates (this will be a breeze)

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A key component of Omani hospitality, coffee and dates are often the complimentary dessert served at the end of the meal, or the snack available at all hours at your accommodation. Omani coffee is a very aromatic, spiced concoction and will likely not taste anything like the coffee you typically consume, so approach it as an entirely new beverage. And the dates of Oman are incredible – I ate the best dates of my life on this trip.

Traditional Boat Tour in the Musandam Peninsula

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The Musandam peninsula is by the Strait of Hormuz close to Iran, and while still part of Oman, it is geographically separate from the rest of the country, with the United Arab Emirates located in between. Musandam is accessible by flying or by car transfer from Dubai, with the town of Khasab as the traditional departure point for the boat tours. Musandam is comprised of stunning fjord-like inlets, and of course the traditional dhow boat tour is an excellent way to explore the beauty of this area. There are many tour providers, all of which will follow a similar itinerary, stopping at several points in the area, providing snorkel equipment to explore the crystal-clear water, and providing traditional Omani meals and refreshments on board. And in all likelihood the dolphins will come out to play at several points during the day, putting on quite the show.

 

 

Oman really was such an incredible vacation destination for a week, and one country I was so glad to visit with my sister. We did encounter some solo travelers, but I find that road trips are always more fun with a buddy, and in this case was strategic with the adventure of navigating. There were so many beautiful sights (and plenty of camels) that we saw along the way, this list just scratches the surface of what you’ll find in Oman.

Which attraction interests you the most? Anything you’d still want to read about Oman in a future post to help plan a visit? Or something you think should have been included on this list of top things to do? Let me know in the Comments!

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Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London

Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London

The town of Bath, an easy train ride from London, lived up to and far exceeded my mental picture of what it would be like to spend a few days in a quaint British town. Trying to coordinate visiting two different friends in London this past fall (and seeing an NFL game in London in the process!) I ended up with two packed weekends and no plans in between. Which didn’t seem like the worst outcome to me, especially since the value of the pound had fallen quite a bit by then following the Brexit vote. So it just became a matter of how I would spend the days in between.

I’ve been to London a number of times, but have never really ventured much outside of the city (other than visiting Stonehenge back in 2007). After polling a bunch of British friends, the most frequent suggestion I received was to go to the town of Bath. The site of the only natural hot springs in the United Kingdom, if the town was good enough to be beloved by the Roman Empire, surely I could find a few things to do over a couple of days in town. Plus, although I didn’t realize this before making my plans, the entire town of Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the end, Bath really wowed me, and I felt like I had a variety of interesting things to do, time to relax, and ate some really great food along the way. Bath is also a popular family destination, and my time there was quite crowded as it coincided with a school holiday week (who knew that ‘half-term’ was a cause for vacation?). So if I fell in love with the town on a busy week, just imagine how much you’ll love it when you go.

Things to Do

Around Town

Bath Abbey

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Located in the town’s central pedestrian area, the Abbey is not to be missed. The interior is filled with high arches and colors streaming in through the stained glass windows, but even more intriguing is the Tower Tour that will take you to the hidden stairwells, the bell ringing chamber, and onto the roof for excellent views in all directions.

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Jane Austen House

Although I did not visit, I’m including the Jane Austen House on my list because it is one of Bath’s most popular attractions. Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years, and while she supposedly did not like it, she did end up setting two of her novels in Bath – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. The house has period furnishings and tells of Jane’s time in Bath.

The Roman Baths

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Once the Romans discovered the natural thermal springs of Bath, they did the only logical thing – they built a spa! Not to be confused with the modern spa (see below), this is the incredibly well-preserved historical site. It’s a huge complex that will take a couple of hours to fully explore, as you progress through the temple and various treatment rooms of ancient times. The audioguide is excellent, and offers different perspectives, including some commentary by one of the funniest authors I’ve ever read, Bill Bryson. Be sure to take a (small) taste of the thermal spring water at the end before you leave.

Thermae Bath Spa

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With pools fed by the natural hot springs, this is a world-class spa to have a relaxing several hours during your stay in Bath. There are steam rooms with different calming aromas, pools of different temperatures and with jets to soothe sore muscles, and a hot pool on the roof with an expansive view of town. In addition to the several hours of lounging in the different pools that was included in my package, I also had an excellent massage here.

TIP! If you will be in Bath on a weekend or during school holidays, book ahead of time to ensure that you can get in to the spa.

TIP! As long as no masseuses call in sick, additional slots may open up in the morning for the same day. Call the reservation line first thing in the morning if you haven’t been able to reserve in advance.

TIP! There are a lot of good package deals including massages, especially mid-week. If you’re not sure which one to choose, I’d definitely recommend either talking through the options and their relative prices with someone over the phone or in person at the spa before you reserve.

Off the Beaten Path

The Holburne Museum

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This is one of my favorite museums of all time! I’m not always a museum person, but I’m so glad I strolled a bit out of the center to arrive here. The main collection is free, and has so much character and a wealth of interesting items that Sir William Holburne collected during his lifetime. I didn’t have nearly enough time, so I’d recommend coming early enough in the day that you have the time to be leisurely.

TIP! Open all of the drawers in the main collection, as some of the most interesting tidbits and interactive displays were inside.

Prior Park Landscape Garden

I didn’t make it to this National Trust site as it’s a bit outside of the city and I ran out of time, but it looks absolutely beautiful from the pictures I’ve seen, especially of the Palladian Bridge located there. I’d say it’s worth the time going from town on public transit, which looks pretty straightforward, and certainly is a place to pop into if you have a car.

Royal Crescent

Royal Crescent DSC_0518

The Royal Crescent is a quite lengthy curved section of connected houses, which is distinctive-looking both for its curvature and sheer size. The math geek in me can’t help but point out that it is semi-elliptical, not semi-circular. The entire Royal Crescent was built in the late 1700s, and the house that stands at No. 1 Royal Crescent is actually a museum you can visit, with period furnishings.

Royal Victoria Park

Royal Victoria Park DSC_0500

If you’ve spent a bit of time exploring in town, this park that is a relatively easy walk from the center and is a great spot to get a dose of greenery and stroll in nature. I spent a bit of time wandering one of my mornings, and it was a great way to have a relaxing start to my day. It is also notable for being the first park named after the 11-year old (not-yet-Queen) Victoria.

Best Bites

Boston Tea Party

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A cute, centrally-located cafe where I enjoyed breakfast one of my mornings, there is an array of coffee, tea, pastries, and breakfast dishes to choose from. I enjoyed their sweetcorn hash, with haloumi, poached eggs, and avocado. A great savory way to energize for a busy day of sightseeing.

The Bridge Coffee Shop

The Bridge Coffee Shop Bath UK 20161024_171744

On the way from town to the Holburne Museum (see above), this coffee shop serves up great hot beverages, although the big draw is the lovely view of the river. Even if the tables on the river side of the shop are taken when you arrive, keep an eye out for departing guests so you can relocate to take in the scenery as you sip.

Chaiwalla Indian Street Food

Chaiwalla Indian Street Food Bath UK 20161025_125651

Right in the heart of town, the vegetarian Indian food served here at super-reasonable prices will satisfy your hunger. The friendly owner/chef can help you decide between the excellent options, or just keep an eye on the dishes prepared to order ahead of you for a sense of which flavorful and delicious option you’d like to order. Conveniently, there are several benches across the street to enjoy your takeaway meal.

Olé Tapas

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Oh my goodness, you must come here for dinner! Recommended to me by a friend who lives in London, it’s a really great Spanish tapas spot that was quite crowded when I went. Fortunately as a solo traveler I didn’t have to wait long before being able to snag a seat at the bar, but if you’re in a party larger than one, you probably want to reserve a table in advance as the space is small. The tapas are excellent, the staff is friendly, and anything you order off their special gin cocktail menu (ask for it if needed) will be crafted with incredible care and wow you with its unique flavor combinations.

Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum

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Located in one of the oldest houses in Bath, you’re likely to encounter a line out the door to dine in for one of Bath’s specialty buns. Fortunately, if you’re not interested in dining in, you can bypass the line to visit the display area downstairs with some history of the house and the bun, as well as purchase a freshly-baked Sally Lunn bun. The bun has a crust around the outside, is like an airy brioche inside, and comes in one size only that is as big as your head!

The Scallop Shell

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Come here for the same reason as everybody else – their award-winning fish & chips. The fish is quite fresh, and unlike some other spots, you get a choice of the type of fish to be fried up with your chips. You can also get your dishes to take away, which can be an appealing option when the restaurant is busy and the line is long.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Bath was a great place to spend a few days, and certainly one of the things that stands out for me was how easy transportation was both to get to Bath and once you arrived. And the town is definitely set up for visitors, with user-friendly pedestrian maps posted in several spots around town. There are plenty of coffee shops around as well, with proper espresso-based drinks as well as the tea options you’d expect in England.

TIP! The buses within Bath are cheap and easy to use, so if you’re traveling a long distance or are simply tired of walking, take advantage. My guesthouse was a bit far from the train station, so I also took a bus when I was arriving and departing with my luggage.

TIP! Bath is a popular family destination, so it will be significantly more crowded during school holidays. Check for the dates of local holidays so you can book accordingly.

TIP! Although the timing wasn’t right during my visit, there are quite a few live theatre performances that take place in Bath. You can peruse the options here. There are also lots of restaurants with pre-theatre meal specials.

Have you been to Bath? What were the highlights for you? Or do you have a different favorite trip for a few days outside of London? Share in the ‘Comments’ below!

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How to Spend Two Days - 48 Hours - in Bath UK

8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore

8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore

Singaporeans are all about the food! Many say that eating (and arguing about the best restaurant or hawker stand for a particular food) is a national pastime, making Singapore a great foodie destination or perfect for anyone who just loves to eat. Singaporeans take their food pretty seriously, which you can get a bit of a sense of from one of my top books to inspire travel. Of course you’ll understand much better when you enjoy the delicious result that comes from a culture that is so culinarily inclined.

This also means that when you search the internet for what foods to try while you’re visiting Singapore, you’ll have the experience that I did – finding website after website with suggestions of specific dishes, some with lists of 30 items or more. Unless you’re moving to Singapore, you’ll need a much smaller list of typical dishes to reasonably be able to sample during your visit. Even more so if you’ll only have a layover to explore. But not to worry, over my week there I worked my way through a ‘To Eat’ list and am now sharing with you my top foods to seek out while you’re there. Of course, this is all in consultation with my friends (including some native Singaporeans) who were generous enough to take me around and make sure I ate well during my visit. Which seems to be the very serious responsibility of any Singaporean host: making sure the guest eats well.

The culinary landscape in Singapore is focused on a lot of hawker stands, meaning open market areas with plenty of food stalls, each with one or a few specialties they’ll serve. For many of the dishes I mention below, you could enter nearly any market in Singapore and find a tasty version. There are also plenty of sit-down restaurants that will provide longer dining experiences, and of course be just as delicious.

Here is a doable Foodie Bucket List for your time in Singapore:

Carrot Cake

Carrot Cake Singapore 20161101_212658

This Singaporean specialty does not resemble the moist orange cake with cream cheese frosting in the least. Carrot cake in Singapore is closer to the radish cake you may be familiar with from eating dim sum or yum cha. It comes two ways: white and black. The white version is savory and fried with egg like an omelette, while the black version is sauteed with soybeans and somewhat sweet like the Thai noodle specialty pad see ew. I didn’t want to have to choose, so I ordered from a hawker stand where I could get both versions on the same plate. Which did I like better? I couldn’t decide, so alternated my bites between the two.

Where I enjoyed it: Telok Ayer market, close to the Marina Bay Sands hotel and Gardens by the Bay, although I later walked past some great looking versions of carrot cake in Chinatown as well

Char Kway Teow

Many countries have some sort of peasant food dish that packed a lot of calories into a small plate, ideal for utilizing leftovers and keeping manual laborers well fed. This rice noodle stir fry dish is the Singaporean version, also claimed by some of its neighbors. The version I saw most often in Singapore used pork as the protein and also typically included egg and bean sprouts, although the other vegetables varied in the different interpretations of the dish.

Where I enjoyed it: Straits Kitchen, which is a good place to sample many Singaporean specialties because it’s a buffet, especially if you have limited time in country. While the dish is typically made with pork, this buffet is halal so offers a non-pork version.

Chili Crab

Chili Crab Singapore DSC_0193

This was the first item that was on my ‘To Eat’ list for Singapore, as my sister’s top notable bite when she visited. The whole crab is cooked in a deliciously spicy umami bomb of flavor, which keeps you coming back for more as you enjoy each chunk of crab. Eating is a messy business, but the flavor is so delicious you’ll want some sort of bread or rice to absorb the goodness of the sauce as you eat.

Where I enjoyed it: No Signboard Seafood, although do research into which of their locations you frequent, as some branches have more consistently good food than others. I also hear great things about Long Beach Seafood (which is actually next to where I enjoyed fish head curry – see below)

Fish Head Curry

Fish Head Curry Singapore 20161106_125454

Like the cultural mix that is Singapore itself, fish head curry is considered to be a cross between an Indian curry and the Chinese delicacy of eating a fish head. While seeing the fish’s eyes staring back at you may give you pause, the rich fish cheeks are to be savored, especially along with the curry sauce.

Where I enjoyed it: Samy’s Curry, close Singapore’s Botanic Gardens

Hainanese Chicken Rice

Hainanese Chicken Rice Singapore 20161104_133545

Although named after a Chinese province, it is believed that this dish really was created in Singapore by Chinese immigrants. The chicken is slow poached and then served sliced, with or without the skin. It is the texture and flavor imparted to the chicken during the cooking process that makes this basic-sounding dish so unique and delicious.

Where I enjoyed it: Boon Tong Kee, which started out as a food stall and now is a sit-down restaurant

Laksa

Laksa Singapore 20161102_184029

The story of this dish’s origin varies, but the important thing is that it is beloved by Singaporeans and claimed as their own. Laksa is a soup version of a coconut-based Asian curry, with rice noodles and various types of seafood to soak up the broth that is a perfect balance of salty, spicy, sweet, and sour notes.

Where I enjoyed it: 328 Katong Laksa, a Bib Gourmand pick for great value in the inaugural Michelin Guide for Singapore

Satay

Satay Singapore 20161103_192741

Satay is grilled meat on a skewer, with the types of meat varying by the place. I love getting an assortment of meats, all of which impart a different flavor as you dip it in the typical peanut sauce served alongside. You’ll smell the aromas of the meat wafting toward you from many hawker stalls, although you’ll get authentic versions pretty much anywhere in Singapore.

Where I enjoyed it: Lantern Rooftop Bar at the Fullerton Hotel, overlooking the marina

Singaporean Breakfast

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I can’t stop raving about Singaporean breakfast, so much so that I wrote an entire blog post about it, which you can check out here. The typical local breakfast involves Singaporean coffee (they roast the coffee beans in butter!) along with kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs. The kaya spread is basically a coconut jam, but its sweetness is a great contrast to the eggs made savory with soy sauce sprinkled over top. Eat this every day you’re in Singapore!

Where I enjoyed it: Several places you can read about in my blog post, although my favorite spot for the quality of its kaya spread was Killiney Kopitiam, which has several branches across Singapore

What is your favorite local food in Singapore? Anything I missed that you think should also be on this short list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore - Foodie Bucket List

Foodie Bucket List: The 16 Best Local Foods (and Drinks) in Israel

Foodie Bucket List: The 16 Best Local Foods (and Drinks) in Israel

Leading up to my most recent trip to Israel, I was a bit stymied by the ‘travel planning’ phase I engage in for most of my trips. I lived in Israel for a year, which was the start of my extensive traveling. I’ve been back to visit many times since, and not so much changes from year to year. Besides catching up with friends and family, how would I spend my time there?

Then, the night before my trip, I couldn’t stop thinking about all of the foods I knew I wanted to be sure to eat at some point during the ten days. I obviously had to have falafel. And hummus. And shakshuka. The more I thought about it, the longer my list became, until I had a pretty decent list stored on my phone of what foods I would seek out on my travels.

So I arrived with a “To Eat” list instead of a “To Do” list.

Even if you’ve never been to Israel, if you’re familiar with the cuisines of other countries on the Mediterranean Sea, you may recognize some of the foods below – or their variations. In any case, the Israeli versions of these specialties are worth seeking out on your visit. Ask any local, and they’ll point you to the best nearby spot for:

Savory Bites

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Shakshuka

The ultimate in savory breakfast, shakshuka consists of a spiced tomato, pepper and onion mixture that is heated and then used as a liquid to poach eggs. A beautiful and incredibly hearty way to start the day. Or do as many Israelis do, and have breakfast for dinner.  Find out more about a top spot to sample this typical dish in my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel.

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Bourekas

Known as a burek in other countries along the Mediterranean and in Eastern Europe, the Israeli version of bourekas also involves phyllo dough that has been stuffed typically with some sort of savory filling and topped with sesame and/or poppy seeds. The salty cheese and potato ones are most common, although there are plenty of variations on fillings. A lot of markets have stands selling bourekas, or it is a good savory bite to pick up from the bakery section of a supermarket for a snack on the go.

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Falafel

A falafel is one of several common Israeli foods served in a puffy pita. The falafel balls themselves consist of ground chickpeas and other spices that are then deep fried. In any reputable falafel stand, you’ll have a variety of toppings to choose from, including spreads like hummus and tahini. Some of my favorite add-ons are marinated cubes of eggplant, pickles, and french fries.

Schwarma

Another typical pita dish found all over Israel, schwarma is filled with meat shaved off of a spit. In Israel it is usually lamb, although you’ll sometimes find chicken versions. Condiments mirror those available for falafel, and make for some tasty bites.

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Sabich

The third and final pita dish on this list, sabich has recently become trendy and widely available in Israel, and was my favorite new bite of my last visit. Condiments are also similar to falafel and shwarma, except that the main filling is fried eggplant and chunks of hard-boiled egg. There is just some unctuous savoriness that comes with a well-made sabich that made this the meal I chose for my final dinner before flying home to Milan.  Head to my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my favorite spot to eat this local specialty.

Hummus

As you’ve seen above, hummus is a typical condiment for pita-based dishes, however it can also be a stand-alone meal. When hummus made its way onto my “to eat” list, it was not as a dip but the warm hummus that is served with chickpeas and spices or sauteed lamb on top, and then pita bread becomes merely the vehicle for the food, with the hummus and its toppings as the main event.

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Jachnun & Malawach

These two types of Middle Eastern concoctions are often made from the same dough and served with the same condiments, so I’ve included them together here. The format differs – for jachnun the dough is rolled into almost a narrow cylinder and malawach is in the form of thick, circular pancakes – but both are brushed with some type of fat or oil. Jachnun tends to be cooked slowly in an oven while malawach is fried, but then both are served with a crushed tomato dip, hard boiled egg, and hot sauce.

Sweet Bites

Image: Yehudit Garinkol via PikiWiki
Image: Yehudit Garinkol via PikiWiki

Baklava

The exact history of baklava’s origins is murky, but the important thing to know is that it is part of local tradition and you’ll eat excellent versions everywhere you go. There are also many varieties beyond the typical bites with flat sections of phyllo dough, some having a more shredded exterior. You can usually find pretty small bites of the different varieties, so go crazy and sample them all!

Image: deror_avi via Wikimedia Commons
Image: deror_avi via Wikimedia Commons

Halva

There are tons of variations of halva around the world – and I’ve sampled versions from Greece to Oman – but the Israeli version is the one I find most addictive. Locally it’s made from a sesame paste and starts off in a large block that is cut into slices for sale. Varieties abound, and beyond the plain version, you’ll most typically see chocolate or various nuts mixed in. Any market is a great place to sample many different types and then buy a slice or two for later.

Elite exploding chocolate bar

‘Exploding’ Chocolate

At any supermarket, head to the row of red Elite chocolate bars and you’ll find this delightful bar of chocolate with pop rocks inside, with little yellow explosions shown on the label. A great snack to have after a picnic meal or while out hiking. It’s also a great souvenir or gift to bring back home, especially if you don’t tell the recipient what to expect when they take a bite.

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Krem Bo

I’ve sampled this treat at food markets in Europe also, but my favorite version is still the Israeli Krem Bo. It is a circle of graham cracker covered by a near-cylinder of marshmallow goo and encased in a thin chocolate shell. Due to the summer heat that would melt these pretty quickly, you’ll typically only find Krem Bo for sale in the winter. The good news is that during Israel’s cooler months you can find them almost everywhere, from large supermarkets to the convenience store on the corner. If you’re having trouble finding them (which even I do sometimes despite knowing what they look like), just ask.

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Doughnuts

Although doughnuts themselves are not a local food per se, sufganiyot – the doughnuts available around Chanukah time – are taken to a whole new level in Israel. The toppings and fillings available boggle the mind, and really it just becomes a vessel for a baker’s creativity.

TIP! Chanukah is usually in December, depending on the lunar, Jewish calendar for any given year, so check the timing before you go if you’d like to be around for the right 8 days.

Beverages

Nana Tea

Any time of year, hot tea is good way to stay hydrated in the desert. So whether you’re actually in the desert, or at one of the developed cities surrounded by desert, nana tea is the local pick. Nana is a type of spearmint from the Mediterranean whose mint leaves will be placed directly into boiling water, often with a regular tea bag, too. A refreshing cuppa anytime.

Sachlav

You’ll see this milky, comfort beverage more often in winter as many people prefer to consume it hot (although it is served cold as well). In addition to milk, aromatics are added, with the exact mix depending on the recipe. Known by some as ‘the hot chocolate of the Middle East,’ it basically serves the same comfort function of a hot chocolate, mulled wine, or hot cider. Keep an eye out for it at market vendors and even coffee shops in bus and train stations during winter.

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Wine

Israeli wine is excellent. A lot of wineries produce kosher wine, but make no mistake – we’re not talking syrupy-sweet Manishewitz here. Some of the best wines I’ve ever had have been from Israel, which produces many varietals of both white and red grapes you’re probably familiar with. Israeli ingenuity has led to exacting production standards that produce a delicious final product year after year. There is also a ton of value with Israeli wine right now, due to all of the competition. Take advantage and sample your way through Israeli wines whenever you have the opportunity. And check out this thorough post on which Israeli wineries are best to visit. If you won’t get a chance to visit wineries in person, but still want to taste the range of Israeli wines, there are dozens of wines that can be sampled at Tel Aviv’s Tasting Room Wine Bar.

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Beer

Israel is known for its entrepreneurial spirit, and this is evident in the emerging craft beer scene as well. The craft beer expansion began in earnest around a decade ago, similar to the timing of Israel’s boutique winery boom. You’ll find it on menus all over and there are quite a few breweries or brewery pubs for specific brands in Israel’s major cities. There is a great round-up of craft breweries to visit from Afar Magazine here. Another great place to sample a variety of craft brews from different breweries is BeerBazaar, with locations in the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv & Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem (I’ve been to and enjoyed the Jerusalem branch). Or you can always opt for the old standby Israeli-produced beers that have been quenching thirst for decades: Carlsberg, Goldstar, Maccabee, & Tuborg.

What’s your favorite Israeli dish? Any typical food I’ve omitted? Have you ever traveled with a “to eat” list? Let me know in the Comments!

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Insider Foodie Bucket List - the 16 Best Local Food and Drink Israel

Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

Jerusalem is built on a series of hills, and as you approach the city in a vehicle for the first time, you feel the anticipation build more and more as you loop around the winding roads. At some point it occurs to you to turn your head, and you find yourself looking down into the dramatic valleys and into the distance at this sacred biblical land. Just when you think you might have arrived, there is one more turn, one more bend, one more cutback, before finally the city of Jerusalem comes into full view.

This build-up, this anticipation, is part of the mystique of the city of Jerusalem. There are surprises and secrets to uncover everywhere you turn, whether it’s an ancient Roman road getting unearthed during an excavation or a previously unknown tunnel accidentally discovered. It is ancient white stone structures and modern amenities. A lengthy history that is tangible as you walk it’s streets, with ancient whispers beckoning at every turn.

Jerusalem is a holy city, central to the Jewish, Christian, and Muslim faiths. The Old City has Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim quarters. Israel itself has become a melting pot even for Jews of many nationalities, including recent waves of Ethiopian and Russian immigrants. Jerusalem has a bustle about it of people always moving with purpose, whether on a religious pilgrimage or simply running errands about town. It is a city that moves.

And then suddenly, the activity comes to a screeching halt as the sun sets on Friday evening. There is the quiet of Shabbat (the Sabbath), a deep calm that sets into the city until Saturday’s sundown, observed more widely in Jerusalem than in Israel’s more secular cities. Sometimes on Shabbat as you stroll deserted streets, taking in the meditative silence of the Jewish day of rest, you feel as if you could be walking those streets 2,000 years ago and not much would differ. There would be the same peaceful quiet, the same contemplation and introspection, the same Jerusalem stone guiding your steps.

Israel, and the city of Jerusalem specifically, was the first place that I lived abroad. Despite my teenage inexperience with travel, I took it all in with a sense of wonder, marveling at the rich history and how connected it was still to the modern city. I loved exploring the back alleys and narrow passageways of Jerusalem’s pedestrian areas and wandering inside the walls of the Old City. I also loved using the city as a jumping off point for other weekend explorations – which I did often – and always savored the return bus trip, looping my way slowly up Jerusalem’s hills until I could see the city peek through again on the turns and finally feeling my heart jump as I could see the full view of Jerusalem again.

Despite the countless times I’ve entered the city of Jerusalem by bus or car, my experience en route is always the same. While I know the city well, it is constantly evolving, and with every visit I see the latest archaeological discovery or a new section of the Western Wall Tunnels unearthed. There is so much to take in, so much to savor, and so much to discover for the first time. On each visit.

Things to Do

Old City and Nearby

Old City

The Old City is divided into four quarters – Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim – and is accessible through nine active gates. It is a bit of living history, with shopkeepers and many holy sites for several religions contained within a small geographic area. Even without a particular destination in mind, it’s a great spot to wander, and be sure to spend at least some time in each of the quarters. Use caution at the entrance gates, and rest assured that there is security posted frequently throughout.

TIP! Many of the religious sites for Christianity, Islam, and Judaism in the Old City require modest dress to enter, so it’s a good idea to dress modestly on any day you’ll be visiting.

The Shuk

Shuk Old City Jerusalem Israel CIMG0731

Shuk simply means market, and is similar to other traditional markets you may have visited throughout the Middle East. Anything from spices to hand-carved chess and backgammon sets to kitchy tourist t-shirts will be on sale, and this is the time to put your haggling skills to the test. Don’t be afraid to walk away – it will improve your bargaining position and there is also likely to be another vendor selling similar (or identical) wares.

Western Wall

Western Wall Jerusalem Israel CIMG0729

The one remaining wall of the first-century Second Temple built by Herod, this spot is the holiest area where Jews can pray. People flock from all over the world, and like the most religious Jews, prayer space is divided into men’s and women’s sections. Modest dress is required. You’ll notice lots of people placing tiny scraps of paper into the cracks in the wall – these notes have people’s personal prayers written on them, believed to have special powers to reach God. If you’re feeling inclined, leave a note with your own prayer on it.

Western Wall Tunnels

The Western Wall is the section visible at ground level, however there are more extensive remnants of the Second Temple underground. I’ve probably toured the Western Wall tunnels three or four times, but it is always worth arranging a visit as excavation are ongoing and new areas are constantly unearthed and added to the tour. It’s best to reserve a spot in advance, using the link above.

Via Dolorosa

Literally “the way of suffering,” this path traces Jesus’s steps on the way to crucifixion. There are 14 stations of the cross, beginning at Lions’ Gate and ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the last five stations are located.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Church of the Holy Sepulchre Jerusalem CIMG0727

Considered to be the location of Jesus’s tomb, Christians from all over the world make a pilgrimage to this Church inside Jerusalem’s Old City. While open daily, lines can get quite lengthy, so it’s best to visit earlier in the day.

Al Aqsa Mosque & Temple Mount

Jerusalem Al Aqsa Mosque Dome of the Rock

The Temple Mount is the third holiest site in Islam after Mecca and Medina, and the holiest site for Jews. For non-Muslims there are very limited visiting hours only from Sunday to Thursday, and entrance to the mosques is no longer permitted. Also, the site can be closed without warning at any time for security reasons. Check in at the link above for the latest information, and arrive early (with your passport) and dress modestly if you’d like the possibility of a visit.

Tower of David & Museum of the History of Jerusalem

Tower of David Jerusalem Israel CIMG0714Tower of David Jerusalem Israel CIMG0721

Also known as the Citadel, the Tower of David, it’s a former Ottoman fortification located just outside the Old City’s Jaffa Gate. You can tour the archaeological excavation and visit a museum showcasing Jerusalem’s lengthy history. There is also an evening light and sound show, with advance tickets recommended.

Hezekiah’s Tunnel & the City of David

This water tunnel is part of the City of David, and was an engineering marvel when first constructed nearly 3,000 years ago. Its purpose was to provide water access to the city in the case of a siege. The tunnel is accessible up until 1 hour before closing time, although you’ll need to buy tickets at least 2 hours before close. Come prepared with water shoes and light, water-resistant clothing as water may be as high as your knees as you walk through the tunnel. Likely to be one of the more memorable sights of your time in Jerusalem.

Around Town

Ben Yehuda Street & Surrounding Pedestrian Areas

A bustling part of town, especially in the evenings, the modern ‘center’ of Jerusalem can be found here. There are a lot of shopping opportunities from brick-and-mortar stores to outdoor markets, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to pop into as you stroll.

Machane Yehuda Market

By day, this is a bustling Middle Eastern market (or shuk) with fresh produce, endless prepared food for sale, and any knick-knack you might need. By night, the market is now a trendy destination for dinner or a night out with friends, especially for the younger Jerusalem crowd. It’s closed on Shabbat, from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday, but otherwise is a must-visit spot at several times of day to taste your way through.

Museums

Israel Museum

Israel Museum

The top draw here is probably the Dead Sea Scrolls, ancient biblical manuscripts on display in the iconic white building pictured above. This world-class museum also houses notable art and archaeological artifacts, and its gardens are extensive and worth a stroll.

Yad Vashem

The State of Israel was founded in the wake of the Holocaust and its Holocaust Remembrance Center is a sobering reminder of the atrocities committed against Jews and others during World War II. Take a slow day and take your time to weave through the thoughtful exhibitions.

Off the Beaten Path

Mount of Olives

This biblical site has been used as a Jewish cemetery for several thousand years and has been a pilgrimage sight for Jews as well. While you may visit for religious significance, it is also a great spot to overlook the city of Jerusalem. Part of the City of David, although a bit further from the Old City than Hezekiah’s Tunnel (see above).

Chagall Windows at Hadassah Medical Center, Ein Kerem

It’s not really close to anywhere you’re likely to be, but if you want to glimpse 12 stunning Marc Chagall windows depicting biblical scenes, head to the synagogue inside the Hadassah Medical Center at Ein Kerem. These were the first Chagall windows I trekked to see, although I more recently enjoyed the Chagall Windows at a church in Mainz. Perhaps I should adopt a new motto: Will travel for beautiful stained glass windows.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Jerusalem is a relatively easy city to navigate. A lot of the sights you’ll want to see are clustered in a few walkable areas, like the Old City and the pedestrian area around Ben Yehuda Street. The other main modes of transportation are:

Light Rail

Opened in 2011, the light rail is a pleasant way to traverse Jerusalem. Only one line is currently open, but it will take you to many of the sights of interest like the Old City, the pedestrian Center, and Mahane Yehuda Market. The light rail also stops at the Central Bus Station, for when you arrive and leave the city, and connects at several points to bus lines.

Buses

The bus system in Israel as a whole, and Jerusalem as well, is exceptionally thorough. Even for the places you’ll want to go outside the central areas, there will definitely be a bus to get you there. Check the Egged site linked above (in English) for schedules and routes.

Taxis

Taxis are widely available, and most drivers speak English. Be sure to negotiate a fare before agreeing to a ride. You can always ask at your accommodations what you should expect a certain ride to cost so you have a baseline in mind.

TIP! Bargaining is a way of life in Israel, and most things are expected to be negotiated. And like all haggling, you’re best served not accepting the first offer.

TIP! A lot of modes of transportation do not operate in Jerusalem on Shabbat, so if you do travel other than on foot, expect to pay more than usual for your taxi.

Jerusalem really is a city that has my heart, and there is so much to discover across its hills. Even among Israeli cities it’s unique, both for how much history has been preserved across millenia and how much that history is felt on a daily basis. It’s a magical place to spend Shabbat and really appreciate the “day of rest.” And a cultural experience like no other to fully take in the other days of the week.

Interested in where to eat while you’re in Jerusalem? Head to this post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my top Jerusalem picks.

Have you been to Jerusalem? Any spots you love that I should add to my list? Other questions about visiting? Let me know in the Comments.

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Impressions and Top Insider Tips for What to Do in Jerusalem Israel

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

“If the Romans made wine here 2,000 years ago, why can’t we today?”

These wise words from one of the more recent Israeli winemakers of the Judean Desert south of Jerusalem embody the explosion of new wineries in Israel over the last decade or so, with the most up-and-coming regions being located in Israel’s desert areas in the south of the country.

Wine has been produced in Israel for millenia – dating from biblical times and later during the Roman Empire – but modern Israeli wine-making has happened on a much shorter timescale, from the 1880s on. And it is the last decade or two in particular that has seen an explosion of new boutique wineries across Israel producing excellent bottles of wine. The recent expansion of wineries is not limited to just the number of wine producers, but also includes wineries popping up in new geographic areas of the country, bringing even more variety to what types of wines today constitute ‘Israeli wine.’ This also means that wherever you’re travelling in the country, there is likely a winery nearby that you can pop into for a visit and a tasting.

Traditionally the green, fertile areas of the Galilee and Golan Heights and the coastal areas in the north of the country have been the hub for wine production, and you’ll still find Israel’s oldest and largest wineries there. Some of the most interesting wines being produced however come from the newer wine-producing regions in the more arid regions to the south, whose varied terroir (soil) and climate lead to very different flavors and notes in the final product. Of course grapes can always taste quite different depending on where they’re grown, but Israel’s varied terrain over relatively small country makes it an especially interesting contrast as you taste your way through its wineries as you travel across the country.

In general, the red grapes grown throughout Israel today tend to be similar to those found in France, from the most common Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah and even some of the lesser-known red grape varietals like Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In terms of whites, you’ll see a lot of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, along with some German white wines like Gewurztraminer and Riesling.

I’ve personally visited most of the wineries on this list, however there are a few additional wineries producing excellent bottles right now that I’ve also included as options for a winery visit in the relevant regions below:

Wineries of Note

Coastal Areas

feat CIMG0813 (2)Carmel CIMG0814

Carmel Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

Famous French winemaker Baron de Rothschild (of Chateau Lafitte renown) founded this winery in the late 1800s, kicking off the modern era of Israeli winemaking. Carmel is actually the largest winery in Israel, and has such interesting history it is also well worth it to come for the tour. If you get a chance, check out the original log books of expenses, and you’ll notice several incidences of the word bakshish (the Arabic word for bribe) listed in several different spellings – a recurring expense when the winery was first founded 😉 It is quite inexpensive for the basic tour, so you’ll definitely get your money’s worth here and also enjoy the several wines available for tasting whichever tour you choose.

Tulip Winery

Reservations: Not needed (except for groups)

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewurtztraminer, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Although I haven’t been personally, the wines from Tulip are so acclaimed I am compelled to include it on this list. Their wines are routinely on lists of top wines from Israel, and their visitor’s center garners high praise. Also, this family winery has a social conscience, employing many people with special needs from the surrounding community.

Golan Heights

Golan Heights CIMG0833 (2)

Golan Heights Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

The Golan Heights Winery offers what I would characterize as the most touristy experience of the wineries on this list, with tour groups criss-crossing each other throughout the estate. Due to the several acclaimed labels produced by this winery, and their extensive operations, it’s definitely one of the wineries where it is worth the advance planning necessary for a visit. There are several levels of tours available in multiple languages beyond Hebrew and English. The different levels of tours vary in length, price, food offered, and which wines are available for tasting.

Pelter DSC_0088

Pelter Winery

Reservations: Not needed except for groups

Tasting: Free, there is a per person fee for groups, which includes tour and wine tasting

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Have a phone or GPS handy, as this winery was a bit hard to find. Once you arrive, you’ll be rewarded by a tasting of excellent whites and interesting reds. While Pelter is a known brand you’ll find in many wine shops and on restaurant menus, you’ll be able to buy bottles for a much more reasonable price in person and have a great tasting experience. And while it may be pricier wine than the bottles you’ll find at other wineries, the quality makes it all worth it.

Judean Desert/Center

Domaine du Castel

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot

This winery involves a bit more effort to visit on your own, although it is a stop on a lot of organized wine tours. The wines include a chardonnay, rosé, and some red blends, many of which have received international recognition for their quality. Like several other wineries on this list, it is a family-managed winery, which you’ll feel on your visit. Do note that this is the priciest of the wine tastings, which includes a winery tour and cheese plate.

Flam CIMG0915Flam CIMG0916 (2)

Flam Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting (with add-on option of cheese & bread), for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

While I’ve enjoyed a bottle of wine from Flam at a restaurant in Tel Aviv, I have not visited the winery personally. It is the second priciest winery tasting option on this list (with some of the priciest bottles of wine), however the winery has received so much attention lately I would be remiss to not include it. Definitely a stop for the serious oenophile.

Tzora Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

Tzora is unique to this list for being a boutique winery in a desert region that has actually been around for over two decades, producing wine since the early 1990s. One of the pioneering wineries of the Judean Hills, the team at Tzora has assembled a lot of expertise that shines through in the final product, always topping lists of the best Israeli wines.

Yatir CIMG0914

Yatir Winery

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Viognier

Another one of my absolute favorite wineries, Yatir is one of Israel’s current outstanding producers. Like Pelter (see above), it is widely available in wine shops around Israel, although at a markup from what you can pay for the excellent quality in-person at the winery. A top winery for a visit, producing some truly excellent bottles worth taking home.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

There are a few additional things you may want to keep in mind when planning your wine tasting tour of Israel – or at least a tour of Israel with some wine tasting along the way =)

TIP! If you’ve rented a car, you’ll know you’re in the vicinity of a winery by the brown sign for sights of interest with grapes on it. The best part of taking a road trip is the spontaneity to go somewhere unexpected at a moment’s notice. If the mood strikes you, take advantage!

Grape signCIMG0910

TIP! Most Israelis speak English well, and this is especially true at the wineries hosting visitors, so don’t worry about being able to understand your tour or tasting. Some of the larger wineries will also offer tours in additional languages.

TIP! A lot of wineries are closed on Saturday for the Jewish Sabbath, and many have limited hours on Friday as the Sabbath begins at sundown (so timing varies throughout the year). Plan your visits accordingly.

TIP! Wineries (and the country as a whole) will also close for other Jewish holidays that may not be on your radar, so definitely consult a Jewish calendar before planning your trip and your winery visits.

TIP! Even for the wineries that don’t require advance reservations, it is good to have a working phone handy to give them a heads up you’ll be coming or to get help with directions if you’re lost on the way.

TIP! Phone numbers in Israel begin with a zero followed by another number indicating the region, and cell phones all begin with 05. If you’re calling from an Israeli phone, include the zero. For calls from other places, when you add the +972 in front for the country code, leave off the zero from the number.

Israeli wine tasting for me ranks up there with some of the stellar tastings I’ve done in wine regions all over the world, from the US to Australia to France to Italy. And the environment is so different from wine regions you may be used to that even some of the grapes you think you know well are likely to surprise you.

If you’re not sure if you’ll have time to do a wine tasting at a winery, check out the ‘Wine’ section of my Foodie Bucket List for Israel for the best spot where you can do a number of tastings at wine bar in Tel Aviv.

Have you ever had Israeli wine? Any favorite Israeli wineries that didn’t make my list? Share any additional intel and comments below!

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8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

What It’s Like Moving Back “Home” After Living Abroad & Tips on How to Adjust

What It’s Like Moving Back “Home” After Living Abroad & Tips on How to Adjust

They say that the hardest adjustment for an expat is moving back “home” after living abroad. They’re not wrong.

I studied and volunteered in Israel for a year after high school, and was surprised that after 18 years of living and growing up in the United States, and only 1 year of living in Israel, I came home with culture shock. Of course, I wondered how it was possible that I could feel so out of place in America, yet I noticed it when the food didn’t taste how I expected and also when shopping for a few things at the supermarket (why is this always such a salient cultural adjustment?) when I felt the urge to elbow everyone out of way in the aisles with an impatient Israeli s’licha. It was the food and culture, the words of Hebrew I was accustomed to interjecting into my everyday English conversation, and the flow of my daily and weekly routine.

Of course, that effect has been significantly amplified after the past 5 years living abroad in Australia and Italy and now being back in the US, living in Baltimore, Maryland. I’ve now been back around two months, but the adjustment has been a challenge, and this is the first time I’m feeling comfortable enough discussing it to write about it for the blog.Moving boxes 20161017_140227A fellow expat in Milan, who’s done a fair bit of moving around over the years, counseled me that I should focus on the positives about the move. Because the negatives will be glaringly obvious and I’ll realize them quickly anyway, but the upsides might be harder to come by in the midst of the adjustment. Here’s what I’ve discovered…

The Good

The biggest, most obvious upside for me about moving back to the US is being closer to friends and family. Already since being back I’ve been able to celebrate the holidays with my family, make it out for a friend’s birthday in New York, and be there in person for my grandmother’s 90th birthday. Slowly I’ve been taking trips to see friends I haven’t spent quality time with in ages. Last-minute group dinners that I organized when I was an expat just back for a visit have been replaced by one-on-one time catching up with people. It’s been a refreshing change to have time for deep conversations and not just a quick catch-up when I see friends and loved ones.Dinner with a friend 20170217_181244I’m also really excited about the professional opportunity, aka being able to have a full-time job again. While I did work full-time in Australia, I barely even looked for full-time work in Italy, instead cobbling together different paid and volunteer opportunities to keep me occupied and engaged. Because the economy is struggling so much in Italy, any full-time work I might have found would have likely involved long hours and not great pay. Plus, not having a full-time work obligation left me flexible to travel at the last minute when the opportunity arose and be an engaged hostess when visitors came from abroad to visit. However, being back in the US I am looking forward to the structure and routine of full-time work, and the chance to impact urban education, one of my passions.

Another upside of America? Convenience. American life is very much about convenience, from pre-packaged ingredients and meals at the supermarket to one-stop shopping at mega-stores that have clothes, food, and toiletries all under one roof. For me, it’s also the convenience of knowing where to go to buy things. Even in Australia where I hypothetically spoke the language (minus the many Aussie abbreviations and slang), the store names were mostly unfamiliar. You’re not going to find US supermarket chains or clothing stores, so figuring out *where* to go to purchase a particular item could be just as time-consuming as the shopping trip itself. Of course, living in Italian in Milan posed the same challenge, exacerbated by the fact that many stores are local and don’t have an online presence, so sometimes the best way to find a specific item is by keeping your eyes open as you walk through different neighborhoods and popping into the first store you walk past that sells what you need. It sounds old-school, but that is the reality of life in Italy.

Speaking of convenience, an upside about American life that I realized even before leaving Milan is laundry. More specifically, having a dryer! Yes, darling readers, it’s true. Most Italian homes have a washer, but no dryer. What does doing laundry in Italy involve? Running a load through the washer, hanging it on a drying rack, and then waiting 24 hours for it to dry before doing your next load. Unless it’s winter, in which case the clothes may take even longer to dry. Laundry in Italy involved a lot of strategizing. If I had three or four loads to do in advance of weekend guests, the process would start on Monday. Really. So yes, having access to both a washer and a dryer living back in the US may sound shallow, but for any recently returned expat is a big deal. I can do more than 1 load in a day! And they’ll both be dry within hours! Having dry (and fluffy) laundry never made a gal so happy =)

Another adjustment, and certainly a positive one – everyone speaks your language! In my first few weeks back, I found myself consciously noticing as I walked down the street that everyone who passed was speaking English. I would think, “how weird,” before realizing that I was back in the US and this was in fact normal and expected to be walking down the street and overhearing English conversations constantly. Living in English again meant that there was no hesitation or much thought involved before I would engage in small talk or strike up a conversation waiting in line or with a cashier or store clerk, a level of comfort you never quite reach living in a foreign language.

Visiting the US as an expat, I would always take advantage of all the ethnic food that is available, most of which is absent or not that great in Italy. Now back living here, I know that quality ethnic food is widely available, from Chinese to Mexican to Thai to Ethiopian. And you can believe that I’ve been savoring all of the opportunities to take advantage of the access.Ethnic Food Washington DC Bad Saint 20161230_213225And if you’ve seen my posts on wineries – in the Piedmont region of Italy or Israel – or even posts that involve wine tastings (like my overviews of Liechtenstein or Plovdiv, Bulgaria), you may have guessed that I had a fair few bottles of wine from around Europe that I brought back to the US when moving. What you may not realize is that there already were a few cases of wine waiting for me in the US, mostly from California and Australia, acquired before moving to Italy. Because they are bottles that I knew would age well, and frankly, it just seemed silly to ship wine *to* Italy. It’s been a lovely trip down memory lane to remember past travels by enjoying wine I acquired there.

Wine collection 20170306_165231

The Bad

I know, I know, I put the good things first, so it sounds like roses and confetti to move back to the US and take advantage of all the opportunities and conveniences the country has to offer. But as much as there is to be grateful for, there are definitely downsides that I have been feeling quite acutely these past months.

There are a lot of things that I’ve been missing since moving back. First and foremost, I miss my Milan friends. I was very fortunate to have met so many incredible people during my 3 years living in Milan, and I actually had a much easier time making friends in Italy than in Australia, even outside of the expatriate community. Since Milan is the business center of Italy, I found that many interesting Italians from all over the country ended up in Milan for work, as well as the city attracting people in many professions from all over Europe and the rest of the world. It felt relatively easy to form deep connections and friendships, and I miss all of the people I used to be able to see on a regular basis and who are now an ocean and a six-hour time difference away.

I also am missing the city of Milan and life in Italy quite tangibly and still daily. When I walk out my front door, I no longer have the stunning Italian architecture to greet me. I don’t stroll past the Last Supper on a nearly daily basis or pass one of the five largest cathedrals in the world on my walk to Italian lessons. Plus, the Italians have a way of savoring everyday pleasures, from a quick cup of espresso to gelato to an evening aperitivo.Santa Maria delle Grazie Milan Italy IMG_20160520_073301

Speaking of which, I really miss all of the food and drink I was able to access living in Italy. Coffee is an integral part of the Italian day, and the entire country is set up so that you can pop in for a 1 Euro (or less) espresso anywhere you are, any time of day. Here in America, if I’m out and feel like a coffee, I’m hard pressed to find a proper espresso and it will cost at least a few dollars even for a single shot. Plus, I can’t necessarily find one when the mood strikes. And even though I brought back quite a few Italian cooking supplies, like carnaroli rice for risotto and “00” flour for fresh pasta-making, the quality of the produce in the US is not as good and so dishes don’t taste nearly as delicious as they did there. When it’s the early evening and I’m feeling like an aperitivo drink, it’s a much costlier endeavor than it ever was in Italy. In Milan, I could buy a decent bottle of Prosecco for 3 Euro at the local supermarket in Italy, but am hard-pressed to find a bottle for under $15 in the US. The same goes for my favorite ingredient to make a spritz – Aperol. For a bottle that would be about $8 in Italy, I’m now paying $25! So while my instinct is to preserve life in Italy as much as possible living back in the US, it’s just not financially reasonable to keep the identical habits without at least some practical adjustments.Pizza Milan Italy 20161216_130354One thing I didn’t realize before moving to Milan, but really came to appreciate, was the travel accessibility. With 3 airports, there are a ton of direct flight options from Milan all over Europe, including several discount carriers like Easy Jet and Ryan Air. Even at the last minute, I could reliably find round-trip airfare for under 100 Euros, and sometimes for significantly cheaper. And Milan is so centrally located that there are plenty of cities and towns within a short train ride or a drive of an hour or two, including a lot of Switzerland. And even small towns in Italy have so much to offer that it’s well worth a trip, even for a day. It’s just not quite the same back in the US, and even a weekend away is much costlier than what I’ve become accustomed to in Milan.

Another thing that I’ve been missing that I hadn’t anticipated – speaking Italian. I lapse into Italian often when I’m with a fellow speaker, and on my few flights I’ve had I find myself seeking out the Italian language movies. Being in the US I’ve actually been exposed to a lot of Spanish since being back (which I also speak), but it has just made me feel the loss of being so distant from Italian. I’ve been doing a lot of reading in English lately, but my next books to tackle will some of the ones in Italian I brought back with me, because I am just missing the lilting language as part of what I hear and absorb every day.

The Bizarre

When I first thought about writing this post months ago, I figured that there would be good things and also some negatives about moving back “home.” What I didn’t anticipate was quite a few items that didn’t really fit either category, but was just an oddity of the experience of being an expat living abroad for many years and then returning back to my native country.

As you read above, I always seem to have trouble in supermarkets. I’m not sure what it is, but that for me seems to be one of the venues where every culture and nationality handles the experience differently, and I become acclimated wherever I live. This wasn’t just an issue after my time in Israel, but something I noticed after living in Perth, Australia (where did all the Asian produce go?) and have certainly noticed over the past couple of months being back from Milan. There are some of the practical details that I’ve struggled to remember. Like how in Italy you need to code and weigh your produce on your own, printing out the sticker with the bar code from the scale in the produce section and affixing it before you reach the checkout line. While in the US the cashier knows and enters the code, or you look it up yourself in the self-checkout lane. Or that there are so many food items on the shelves at American supermarkets that I forgot existed and find myself craving. Not because I want to eat them necessarily, but simply because I haven’t seen them in ages and now I *can* have them. Like Oreo cookies, for one.supermarket scale (2)

Another oddity of moving back has been the food I gravitate toward cooking at home. In Milan, cooking at home involved a lot of ethnic food, making versions of favorite dishes that were better than what I could find in a restaurant locally. Thai curries, Korean rice bowls, fish tacos (with homemade tortillas), and Chinese stir-fries were all in heavy rotation in my Milan kitchen. Now back in the US? I’ve been cooking a lot of authentic Italian dishes, and haven’t even braved going out to an Italian restaurant yet, even though Baltimore actually has a decent-sized Italian population and its own ‘Little Italy.’ One day I’ll muster up the courage, but for now I’m enjoying making my own Italian food, knowing I won’t be disappointed with the resulting meal.

And when it’s time to order food for delivery, especially for ethnic dishes I no longer feel compelled to cook on my own, I don’t even know the current apps and websites to do this. Although I never actually ordered food in the whole time living in Milan, I knew the European apps that were out there – Deliveroo, Foodora, JustEat. Being back in the US was initially baffling and involved a bunch of asking around to figure out that for food I could use GrubHub, OrderUp, or UberEats to get food to show up at my door. In the 5 years I’ve been gone, the landscape has changed quite a bit, and is another one of those weird adjustments you don’t expect needing to learn.

And even though I’ve been living and shopping in the US for a couple of months now, there are still signs all over the house that I’ve just moved back from a posting abroad. There are still plenty of household items that are in a foreign language (like the dish soap, for one). Things that were purchased in Italy and now are part of the things I see daily that are reminders of no longer being in Milan. And I’ve seen it in the homes of other expats who’ve recently returned home – those reminders of the life you left behind.Dish Soap 20170306_165438It’s also weird that it’s not just instant acclimation back into an old life. For you, the expat, it feels like you should just be slotting back into your previous life since you’re now back and everyone is excited to have you nearby. The reality? You arrange an initial meet-up with friends, but as other gatherings crop up – kids’ birthday parties & nights out – friends are liable to forget that you are now around and you only find out about events after the fact.

Tips on How to Adjust

So, what is a recently-returned expat to do? What steps have I been taking that I’ve found have helped with the adjustment back “home”? How do I manage all of the changes and gaps in my day-to-day life? I’m not an expert by any means, but here are a few things that I’ve found helpful over the last two months.

Connecting with old friends. Some days it may feel like you know no one, but the reality of course is never that severe. Sure, you may need to do a lot of the initiating at first, but there are definitely old friends in the area that will want to spend time with you, even if it’s been a while. What I love about close friendships is that even after much time and distance apart, you can get together and practically pick up right where you left off. And it’s important to make it a priority to see people. For me, that has meant some day trips and a weekend spent in Washington, DC where I lived for nearly a decade and have a strong friend base. During that time I’ve been able to hang out with some of my oldest friends and feel a bit more connected to life in the US again.

Finding new social circles. Let’s face it, after time living abroad, you’re not exactly the same person you were when you last left home. And even if you haven’t changed much when it comes to things that matter, your community is not the same as when you left. Friends have moved away or had children and aren’t likely to have as much free time as you do when you first return. Since moving back to the US I have been active on Facebook and Meetup to find other former expats and like-minded people to connect with. So far I’ve joined a book club, found buddies for rock climbing, and reached out to a group that sees live theater locally. I’ve even found some Italians in the area. My social calendar is certainly not full, but it’s been a great feeling to find people in my new city with shared interests.

Finding the things that keep me grounded and give me a sense of continuity or normalcy, and focusing on those. For me, the biggest thing that has helped to keep me grounded since the move is this blog! I’m still an internet connection away from a lot of the friends I’ve made through blogging, so it feels like nothing has changed in that respect. And I know that putting effort into Travel Savvy Gal – writing posts, becoming more active on social media, attending webinars about blogging – will not be wasted. I can see the tangible results of my hard work, from a larger Instagram following to Twitter re-tweets and increased website views. For my mental and emotional sanity, I’ve sought out rock climbing (my biggest stress reliever) and seeing live theater, an activity that deeply nourishes my soul. It gives me that extra bit of a boost that sustains me on the rougher days. And when you’re least motivated to seek out a pick-me-up, that’s of course when you need it the most.

Having low to no expectations. Things that can be most disappointing are those times when you expect things to go a certain way, and then reality doesn’t live up to your preconceived notions. The best way to combat disappointment? Don’t start off with expectations. Of course, that’s easier said than done, but starting from a blank slate means that everything you get from that point forward is something extra and unexpected. I’ve been trying my best over the past two months to keep an open mind about each day, and then appreciating the good things that come my way.

Focusing on what I’ve gained, not what I’ve lost. I’ve talked before on the blog about practicing gratitude, and I really believe it has the power to be transformative. When you spend time at the end of each day thinking about the things you are grateful for, it means that the following day your brain is on the lookout for things to appreciate for the following night’s round-up. The brain is a muscle like any other in the body, and can be trained to seek out the positive parts of your day, every day. While there have certainly been many frustrating moments, I am still incredibly fortunate to have had the opportunity to live abroad and experience other cultures, and now have the time to integrate back into American life while still working on the blog and sharing my travel tips and experiences, something I’ve found incredibly rewarding these past several months.

What’s next?

Well, the first order of business for me is finding a job. Unfortunately that means that most travel planning is on hold for the moment, although I do have a few weekends away planned. I’m also hoping to attend some upcoming travel blogger conferences – one in the US and one overseas – but again, I haven’t made any exact plans yet. Of course, the inability to plan while I’m in limbo has contributed to my overall frustration, but I’m trying to take everything in stride and focus on the positives.

And although I haven’t found a full-time job yet, I am admittedly nervous about the small number of vacation days that come with many US jobs. Sometimes it can be as little as 2 weeks, compared with the 6 weeks I received working in Australia that is common in Europe as well. Again, this is a wait-and-see situation, and I’m putting a lot of trust in the universe – and putting forth much effort – so that things will turn out well in the end.

The other question you’re probably wondering is what this means for the blog. For now certainly, things will carry on as usual with Travel Savvy Gal. I don’t know about you, but I certainly can’t job hunt and write cover letters for 8 straight hours a day, so I’ve been interspersing blogging activities with my job hunting. There will still be posts every Tuesday and Thursday, so continue keeping an eye out for that and show your love in the Comments.

Of course, I’ll be keeping you wonderful readers updated if and when anything changes. I was an avid traveler before becoming an expat and living abroad (when I was working full-time in the US) and I will be an avid traveler again being back here. In the meantime, I’m taking deep breaths through this transitional time and working on making the most of the days that I am able to travel at the moment. And there’s plenty of destinations I’ve traveled recently and haven’t written about yet, so those will be coming to a blog post near you sometime very soon.

For anyone who’s had to make a big living adjustment or also moved home after time abroad, what was it like for you? What things were the biggest help as you were getting re-acclimated? I’m still in the process myself, so any additional tips or intel would be greatly appreciated!

What It's Like

Insider Bucket List – 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

Insider Bucket List – 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

Many people travel to Israel as religious pilgrims, but this tiny country on the Mediterranean has so much to offer every type of traveler. From outdoor adventure to Roman ruins to burgeoning boutique wineries to relaxing beach days, there is a seemingly endless list of attractions and superlatives to seek out. You can treat this post as a bucket list, or merely as a starting point to get a sense of all of the ways to spend your visit to Israel, and then decide on which ones appeal to you most or work with your time limitations.

This list is compiled from the top experiences that stand out for me, after my time living in Israel and my recent return visits. I am a bit of an eclectic, so you’ll see different aspects of my foodie, nature-loving, history-enthralled self coming through. Enjoy!

#1 | Jersualem’s Old City.

Dome of the Rock Al Aqsa Mosque Jerusalem Israel CIMG0718 (2)

There are millenia of history in the layers of Jerusalem stone, and there have been enough excavations over the years that you can literally walk in the footsteps of history. The Old City, despite its small size, contains some of the holiest sites of the world’s three main monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. And the historical remnants abound – yours to discover as you wander on foot or take part in an organized itinerary. Check out my top picks for what to do in Jerusalem here.

#2 | Eat your way around a market.

Produce in Israel tastes incredible because it is just so fresh. It was only when I lived here that I started eating tomatoes and many other fruits and vegetables because it just tastes so much better from the markets. Markets also have plenty of vendors selling prepared food products, including many of Israel’s local specialties. Even the smallest Israeli town will have a market at least a couple of days a week, so ask wherever you go. Top markets to visit include Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem or Carmel Market in Tel Aviv.

#3 | Cosmopolitan Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv feels much like any bustling European city, and it will probably remind you of some when you visit. Sheinkin Street is a great shopping destination with some funky stores and plenty of nearby restaurants and cafes to refuel. On Tuesdays and Fridays, my favorite craft market is held all day on block after block of the pedestrian street Nahalat Binyamin – it’s a great place to pick up souvenirs or treat yourself. I still wear a ring I purchased here in the 1990s daily. And of course, there is the cafe culture of Tel Aviv to soak up. Linger as the Israelis do, drinking coffee, grabbing a light bite to eat, and catching up with friends or work leisurely on your laptop. Rothschild Boulevard is a popular spot for outdoor cafes and people watching, including the beloved cafe at Rothschild 12 and you can check out some other top recommendations from Israeli newspaper Ha’aretz here.

#4 | Old Port City of Jaffa.

Jaffa CIMG0236

On the southern side of Tel Aviv lies this ancient port city, which for me is all about wandering and exploring. Take in the views overlooking the sea and Tel Aviv’s beach, stroll through the HaPisga Gardens, wander the narrow passageways and pop into artist’s studios along the way, and explore the antique offerings at the local flea market. There are also some great restaurants overlooking the water and some trendy bars that have opened recently.

#5 | Baha’i Gardens in Haifa.

Haifa Bahai Temple 20151208_152741

One of the two holiest sites for the Baha’i religion is in Haifa, a dramatic series of terraced gardens leading up to a Temple. Entrance is free and the gardens are open 7 days a week except holy days, although some of the interior gardens close at noon. The city of Haifa hasn’t always wowed me, but this is is one thing worth traveling to Haifa to seek out.

#6 | Beaches.

Tel Aviv Beach View CIMG0243 - Copy

Israel has a whole coast of beach possibilities, from the one essentially in downtown Tel Aviv to some of the more secluded options further from the cities. Definitely build some down time into your trip to go and enjoy the warm Mediterranean waters and the beach scene. And if you make it to Herzliya, definitely check out their beach’s main attraction – a hermit house built from discarded materials that has been around since the 1970s.

#7 | Play sheshbesh at a bar or cafe.

In the US, people gather at parks to play a game of chess – in Israel, they gather at bars and cafes to play sheshbesh, which you may know better as backgammon. If you’re not from the Middle East, you may not have grown up playing backgammon, but in Israel it is all the rage. Many bars and cafes will have playing sets available, and it is definitely the local pastime. Often enjoyed in conjunction with some flavored tobacco smoked from a water pipe, known locally as hoookah or nargila or shisha, it’s a way to experience life like a local for an afternoon or evening.

#8 | Enjoy a Traditional Shabbat.

For religious Jews, Shabbat (the Sabbath) is a day when time stands still, lasting from sundown Friday until sundown Saturday. You don’t use electricity or cell phones, but take the time to pray and enjoy time with friends and family. It’s a great escape or digital detox for a day, and is worth seeking out a way to enjoy a Shabbat in Israel, whether it means attending a synagogue service or sharing a traditional meal with locals.

#9 | Bargain at the shuk.

Shuk Old City Jerusalem Israel CIMG0731

The shuk, or market, is a central part of shopping and eating for many Israelis. In addition to food, there are plenty of household items for sale plus souvenirs for any type of tourist, from t-shirts to jewelry to spices to hand-carved chess or backgammon (sheshbesh) sets. Of course, this being the Middle East, you don’t want to simply accept the first price that is offered. Haggling is expected, and it is at its most dramatic in this country of bargaining experts.

#10 | Check out the Natural Grottoes at Rosh Hanikra.

Rosh_Hanikra_(12276775196) Israel
Image: sunshinecity via Wikimedia Commons

Located atop steep cliffs at the Israel-Lebanon border on the Mediterranean coast, Rosh Hanikra is also the site of a series of natural sea grottoes. From the visitor’s center you can descend in a cable car and explore the area of the grottoes on foot, taking in the natural landscape.

#11 | Stunning Archaeological Ruins.

Many empires have ruled the land that is now Israel, so there are ruins all over, many dating from Roman times thousands of years ago – and others from long before. Some of the my favorite ruins to visit (I’ve been to all of them multiple times over the years):

Akko Acre Israel CIMG0762

  • Akko/Acre – One of the few natural ports along Israel’s coast, Akko has been used by many civilizations who have left their mark. Walk Old Akko’s walls and explore the underground crusader city. Another reason to go? Enjoying the epic tasting menu at one of my all-time favorite restaurants in the entire country, Uri Buri.Caesarea Israel CIMG0785 - Copy
  • Caesarea – Named for Julius Caesar, the ruins here are massive and rival any that I’ve seen in Italy or Greece. Set aside plenty of time to explore all of the areas, including an Amphitheater and Hippodrome, dramatically located right on the Mediterranean coast.Megiddo Israel CIMG0816
  • Megiddo – The biblical site of Armageddon, this is one of the more ancient settlements whose mark is still visible today. James Michener’s masterpiece novel The Source is generally based on the archaeological excavations here, especially around the impressive underground water tunnel that you can explore on your visit.

#12 | Visit Wineries.

Golan Heights CIMG0833 (2)

Modern wine-making has been taking place in Israel for over a century, but it is more recently that boutique and family-run wineries of quality have emerged onto the scene. There are many winery tours and tastings you can experience, both in the more traditional wine-growing regions and at some excellent producers cropping up in the desert areas south of Jerusalem. Click here for my rundown of all of the best wineries for a visit when you go.

#13 | Mystical City of Tsfat/Safed.

Tsfat has been the seat of Jewish study and Kabbala (Jewish mysticism) for quite some time, and many people travel here to learn. Overall, it’s a quiet place with stunning views, although the synagogue scene gets quite lively over Shabbat. Like Jaffa near Tel Aviv, there are also a lot of artists who make their home here and have galleries that are open to the public during the week. There are also many local dairies producing some excellent cheese.

#14 | Outdoor Adventure.

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Israelis like to seek out their fair share of adventure, and with the varied terrain and coast, there are many great options. Some top possibilities for outdoor adventure include hiking, rock climbing, rappelling (known in Hebrew as snapling), skydiving, scuba diving, and canoeing or kayaking. Take your pick!

#15 | Hike Masada for Sunrise.

Masada Israel Sunrise CIMG0646Masada Israel CIMG0653

Masada is well-known for being the site of a famous siege and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Jews were isolated on the plateau and after a long standoff with the Romans, committed mass suicide before they could be captured. The archaeological excavations of the settlement at the top are extensive, and it’s a beautiful (if hot) early morning hike to the top to watch sunrise over the mountains and the Dead Sea, and then visit the complex.

#16 | Float in the Dead Sea.

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The lowest point on Earth, the Dead Sea also has an incredibly high salt concentration. Which means that you will be incredibly buoyant when you enter and can’t help but float – a disorienting and incredibly fun experience. You can see from me reading a book in the quintessential photo above that even if you normally have trouble floating, you can’t help but float here. The one think to be careful about is any cuts, no matter how microscopic. So maybe forgo shaving the morning before you go, as you will acutely feel any open wounds with the salinity.

#17 | Ein Gedi Oasis.

Ein Gedi Israel CIMG0668

Israel’s largest oasis, this is a great spot for hiking and exploring for a day. Amidst the desert, there are springs, streams, and even waterfalls. Especially incredible given its proximity to the Dead Sea, it’s incredible to see all of the greenery and wildlife interspersed in an otherwise arid area. There are several trail options and lookout points to get a view of the surrounding area.

#18 | Trek the Desert.

Negev Desert Me on a Camel Israel (2)

I once volunteered at a camel riding outpost for three weeks, which involved living on a sand dune in the middle of nowhere with very few people around. In the middle of the desert, you can’t help but be in touch with the rising and setting sun and the expanse around you, I had no trouble seeing how many of the world’s religions were born in desert surroundings. It’s worth exploring Israel’s many desert landscapes during your visit, which you can do on foot hiking, biking, or riding a camel. And outside of the city lights the night sky is spectacular, so spend an overnight under the stars if you can.

#19 | Visit a Kibbutz.

A kibbutz is an Israeli collective – a community working together and jointly benefiting from individual efforts. Initially most kibbutzim were socialist farming communities and many even raised their children collectively, although in recent years many have shifted to a less socialist model. The fact that several of these uniquely Israeli communities are thriving today is a sight to see – many offer tours or meals, or even the possibility of staying overnight.

#20 | Check out a Machtesh.

Machtesh Ramon Israel
Image: Orhat via Wikimedia Commons

I would have written this article about how a machtesh in Israel is a must-see sight – if the Globe and Mail hadn’t already beaten me to it. A machtesh is an erosion crater unique to southern Israel and Egypt’s Sinai peninsula, and the largest of the five is Machtesh Ramon, which is over 40 kilometers (25 miles) long! Machtesh Ramon is the most humbling and also best equipped to direct tourists to its many hiking trails and lookout points

Are there any top experiences in Israel I missed? What stands out most in your mind? And any other questions about visiting Israel or any of the activities I listed? Share and ask away in the Comments!

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Insider Bucket List - Top 20 Experience in Israel

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