Travel Superlatives 2018

December 19, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Wow, 2018 turned out to be quite the travel whirlwind – filled with many travel highlights, good and bad!

Last year, I explored 2 new countries. This year I made it to 5: Denmark, Honduras, Malta, Nicaragua, and Norway.

Not that I’m so into the whole country counting thing, but I keep track every so often and realized with my recent cruise stop in Honduras, I’ve now been to 59 countries!

This year, with some strategic planning around holidays and generous leave at my full-time job, I also managed several longer trips, many of them returning to some favorite countries and cities I’ve visited before – like Belgium, Italy (where I lived for 3 years!), New Orleans, Philadelphia, and San Francisco.

Across my many trips, there were those moments that stood out for being blissful, with the stars seemingly aligning just right. There were many visually beautiful moments, meandering on a road trip through picturesque scenery or hiking through breathtaking nature. And also hilariously terrible moments when everything seemed to go incredibly wrong and I tried to recover as best I could – or at least wallow in misery and live to travel another day.

Here are some of those memorable travel experiences:

A Multitude of Travel Fails

Sure, I’m Travel Savvy Gal, but how do you think I got so savvy? By doing things wrong, of course! Sometimes repeatedly.

And with all of my travel this year, even with all the things I did do right, it inevitably didn’t *all* go according to plan.

There were the little things that I kicked myself for – not paying attention to my direction and ending up on the sunny side of the bus or train, picking the one seat without a power outlet, or somehow finding the seat with a bar underneath and no space to stow bags.

But my most panicked moment came near the start of my first two-week trip to Europe. And I hadn’t even left the US yet!

After going through security, I was sitting at the bar at one of the airport restaurants and dropped my phone. Which of course I had done dozens of time before, but this was the drop that broke my cell phone for good. But it was so close to boarding time that all I could do was take my flight completely phone-less. On top of which, I had forgotten to set an out-of-office message on my work e-mail and couldn’t complete the authentication to log in without a working cell phone! (Luckily when I arrived in Milan, where I have a lot of friends from my 3 years living there, I was able to borrow a friend’s spare smartphone for the trip – phew!)

Then somehow that carelessness was like a curse that extended through the entire trip. As that two-week European adventure in April progressed, I just was not at my best for staying on top of all my belongings.

In Belgium, after a day of exploring when I first arrived, I took a train to Antwerp to reunite with my best friend from my time in Milan, and completely walked off the train without my main luggage that I had stowed on the shelf above the seats. Luckily, Antwerp was the final stop of the train, so when I realized I had left it behind a minute later, the train was still in the station with its doors open and I was able to walk back on and fetch it.

Then, at the last destination that same trip, on my final day in Copenhagen, I lost my Copenhagen Card – which was basically my pre-paid admission to all of the local attractions and my card to access public transit. So for things like the Carlsburg Brewery tour, I had to pay again to enter. Luckily, it was only about a $20 mistake in the end, but it literally cost me.

New Food Obsession

I don’t get obsessed with a new food every time I visit a new country (I swear!) but my Copenhagen obsession started long before I landed, just by reading a description of local delicacy, smørrebrød. Sure, it’s just an open-faced sandwich – Danish-style – but there is a whole lot more that goes into the perfect bite after perfect bite that I enjoyed there.

It is color, it is texture, it is flavor. All mixed together with the Danish design sensibility that extends to many area of life in Denmark. Plus, it’s incredibly delicious. So yeah, I admit it, I’m totally obsessed.

Luckiest Budget Moment

My first big trip of 2018 was a week in Nicaragua. I was meant to visit with a friend but she had an emergency (don’t worry, everything is fine now!) and had to back out last minute. I briefly debated whether to still go, although let’s be real, being on my own has not dissuaded me from a trip yet. It just meant that it would be a slightly different trip without her company and that I needed to make some adjustments to my plan to account for not splitting expenses two ways anymore.

My biggest in-country transit was between the island of Ometepe and the town of León, and certainly the budget way to traverse the distance was by bus. Although I had taken the converted school buses known as chicken buses on other stretches, on this journey it would have involved going into the capital city of Managua, transferring buses, and leaving again on a different bus.

With the buses stopping frequently, the trip would have taken all day.

I decided that even though I was traveling solo, I would splurge on a private car transfer to the ferry and then from the ferry on the other side, to minimize how much of the day I’d lose in transit.

My lucky moment came when I approached the reception desk at my guesthouse, and I happened to ask about the trip just as a couple was making the exact same inquiry. We even were targeting the same departure time.

So instead of footing the bill alone, I got to split the ride – 3 ways!

And of course, in true travel fashion, it turned out that there was a lot to connect me and the random couple – from hearing about their home in Denver, where my sister had recently moved, to conversing in Hebrew because she turned out to be Israeli. The driver even got in on the lively conversation along the way, with me translating since I was the only person in the group who spoke Spanish.

READ MORE: Top 13 Reasons to Visit Nicaragua

**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists. Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

Craziest Hiking Conditions

I like to hike. Usually with a friend, and often sandwiched in between two city sightseeing days to get some time in nature. Occasionally, I hike solo. I’ve done some serious hiking on my own, but the last time was back in 2016 on a solo weekend in Liechtenstein.

Only because I am a semi-serious hiker, had done multiple 6+ hour hikes on my own before, and had trained before the trip, did I even attempt to hike high up in a Norwegian fjord while solo in late September. Which is basically the beginning of their winter.

Despite the cold, there were a lot of fun elements of the hike, however the final section was so brutal that all four people who started out ahead of me turned back before reaching the end. At that point, I was literally alone. In the middle of nowhere. With no cell service.

At the top, with a third of the hike still remaining, the wind was merciless and there were large patches of black ice, where the rock had iced over but you couldn’t tell if it was wet or icy until you extended a tentative step. Plus, the fog had rolled in and there was barely enough visibility to see from one bright red trail marker to the next.

But I am nothing if not persistent, so while continuing to be cautious, I slowly made my way toward the famous wedged boulder known as Kjerag. As its slightly rounded top was covered in a layer of ice and show, standing on it was not possible, but seeing the spot in view was still so incredibly rewarding.

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Most Drinks Consumed

This one might be a tie. Between a cocktail crawl, giant boozy slushies, a distillery visit, and wine tasting in New Orleans (let the good times roll!) and also California wine country, where a friend and I road-tripped with just two winery reservations and still managed to squeeze in tastings at 12 wineries in basically 2 days.

In both cases, a lot of different venues were involved, and getting to sample all of the delicious concoctions was also incredibly tied to the sense of place in each location.

Travel Research Fails

While in Belgium during my April trip, my main concern when picking when to take a day trip to Ghent, Belgium from my home base in Antwerp was centered in part on the weather and in part on my friend’s schedule. And I didn’t know any better, so didn’t do my due diligence until I was en route and realized just how many museums and restaurants would be closed since it was Wednesday. Which seemed awfully random but now I know and you should, too – so it featured in my blog post with tips for visiting Belgium.

READ MORE: 9 Top Belgium Travel Tips

In Philadelphia in the US, I thought I had done my due diligence when I found a spot with great cocktail reviews close to where I’d be exploring on Saturday afternoon of my weekend trip. After trying and failing to find this amazing bar, some closer looking led me to realize that it was a cocktail school, not a bar where I could order drinks! (Luckily, some alternate options were also nearby, and I enjoyed a great pre-dinner cocktail.)

Most Unexpected Outing

I had briefly been to a secluded beach in the north of Haiti on a cruise with my family over a decade ago. This past February, I returned to a completely different part of the country on a work trip, splitting my time between the capital of Port-au-Prince and the northern Artibonite region. As you might imagine about a country with many travel warnings in place, security is key and was my main focus there.

What was completely unexpected was the cosmopolitan and – thanks to the many aid organizations and non-profits – thriving expat scene in Port-au-Prince. The one Friday night I spent there, I went salsa dancing! Read all about how salsa dancing in P-au-P was different than I expected in the caption below:

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Best Sunsets Enjoyed

I’m not much of a morning person, so I’m far more likely to catch sunset than sunrise (other than in winter, like this recent gem spotted on my way to work). After a year of traveling, a few of these stellar sunsets stand out more than most:

I saw several great sunsets in Malta, but the one that stands out the most was spotted toward the end of a whirlwind day I later called my perfect sightseeing day. After many buses, city exploring, a wine tasting, and some coastal hiking, I swam and took in the views as I swelled with the satisfaction of a wonderful, full day of solo exploring and enjoyed the lovely colors as the sun set over the water.

As someone who loves water views, I also took *so many* pictures of sunset on my Caribbean cruise. I still think my favorite views though, were on the first night as the ship left port in Miami just as the sun was going down:

READ MORE: Top Tips for Taking a Cruise

On vacation, watching sunset it usually an item on my itinerary, while at home, I often get caught up doing something without remembering to glance outside. I almost missed this boldly colored one while at home in Baltimore, but then I just happened to look out the window and see how stunning and bright this one was. Luckily I have a rooftop deck and was able to rush up there with both my phone and camera to appreciate its beauty. Plus, snap a few shots, of course.

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Most Unexpected Foodie City

You’re probably expecting me to list some famous city that you have heard of or been to, but may not have realized has a foodie scene.

Well, here goes: Stavanger, Norway. No, doesn’t ring a bell?

Honestly, I had never heard of Stavanger either until I realized that it was the most convenient jumping off point for all of the hiking I wanted to do in the nearby Norwegian fjord. But critical to its foodie scene is the fact that Stavanger is also an oil city and has plenty of high-paid executives that frequently dine out for business and sustain some fancy and delicious places all around town.

Norway’s first Michelin star awarded outside of Oslo was to a Stavanger restaurant back in 2016 (now there are more). And I enjoyed some of my most memorable meals of the year there.

Most Last-Minute Flight Purchase for Vacation

I thought it was cutting things close when I lived in Milan and didn’t buy a ticket for a weekend trip to London until the Wednesday before a Friday afternoon flight. For the first time in my life, when I scanned my boarding pass at the gate, it beeped.

Because I had been tagged as a high security risk.

“Did you by any chance by your ticket in the last 48 hours?”

Why yes, yes I did. After breathing a sigh of relief as they confirmed the likely reason for my being flagged, the flight attendant fortunately had no problem letting me on the flight.

This year, I topped that moment.

I had planned months ahead for my Norway trip, securing a one-way evening flight to Bergen (via Stockholm) on Norwegian Air. Early afternoon the day before my flight, I started getting a series of text notifications about problems with the airplane.

Twenty texts and two hour-long phone calls later, it became apparent that my original flight would be canceled. And I’d be delayed at least one day – if not more – due to the connection I’d then miss.

So I did what any frequent traveler would do – right? I started a whole flurry of activity.

I checked with travel insurance to see what extra costs would be covered. Then I called Norwegian Air on different numbers simultaneously (one on my cell, one on Skype) to get a hold of a person as fast as possible to refund the original flight.

AND then, once my confirmation e-mail came through, I bought a completely new one-way plane ticket to Bergen on a different airline.

By the time this all got sorted out, it was so close to 24 hours before my flight departed the next day that my purchase confirmation and check-in reminder came within 10 minutes of each other!

(And just for the record, Norwegian Air’s Customer Service is excellent – My request took a month to process, but not only did they refund the cost of my original flight, they also paid me for the $300 fare difference for the last-minute flight I booked. So I never did have to make that claim with my travel insurance.)

Biggest Travel Win

A Romanian friend who has been living and working in the US quit her job to return to Europe and wanted to go on a girls’ road trip to San Francisco and nearby wine country in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. So she called me, obviously! (No arm twisting required.)

We booked flights to California three weeks in advance. As is my usual, I booked the flight, told my friend, then added us to the wait list for all 3 of the nights we’d be in wine country for the most outrageous restaurant in the region, The French Laundry. Which is considered one of the hardest reservations to get in the US (even if you book months ahead of time).

I didn’t think much of this, and had pretty much forgotten all about it by the time we started our trip.

After all, I had joined a wait list for Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy and for Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark when I visited both areas in April of this year – and didn’t hear from either restaurant. But of course you can’t get in off the wait list if you don’t even try.

So imagine my surprise when I got a call from a California number I didn’t recognize as we were wine tasting up and down the Napa Valley on Sunday afternoon.

The French Laundry has a spot for us? What?!?!??

YES, of course we want to come for dinner on Monday at the French Laundry. Most people make a dinner reservation at The French Laundry, and only *then* book a plane ticket to California. Which was the only way I thought I’d ever be able to go. Then here they were offering me a spot! (Although of course also asking me to pre-pay the $700 for two on my credit card online within the hour at a moment’s notice.)

No problem, sign us up!

In the wake of the flurry of activity securing the reservation, I felt like pinching myself to see if it was all really happening.

I’m still in such disbelief that the website confirmation of my reservation is still open in the browser on my phone 2 weeks later:

After the call and confirming our seats, my friend and I were finally grabbing some lunch in between wine tastings and just looked at each other – did that really just happen??

Those ‘pinch me, is this real?’ moments are what makes me love the travel experience and continue coming back for more. More new experiences, more elation, more crazy disappointment that sometimes is so ridiculous that it borders on the hilarious.

You need the travel blunders to appreciate the wins. Without the lows, you can’t fully appreciate the glorious highs when everything goes right. It may sound counter-intuitive, but it’s true, I promise.

I just try to be present in the moment and savor it all as it comes, grateful to be here and able to experience it all.

For more highlights from recent years, check out my previous Travel Superlatives round up posts:

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2017

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2016

What were the highlights of your travel year? And what was the craziest thing that happened to you on the road? Any place that I mentioned you’d like to see more blog posts about?

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Foodie Travel – Top Thing to Eat in Copenhagen, Denmark: Smørrebrød

September 4, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Sometimes I’ve been known to get obsessed with one specific thing when I travel.

In San Sebastian, Spain, I was consumed by seeking out the best pintxos – the beautiful small bites along with your drink – at local bars.

In Oman, it was the aflaj, the ancient waterways, that I was so fascinated by I took road trip detours to find them.

In Italy, truffles held my focus – buying truffles at local artisanal food fairs, attending truffle festivals all over the country in different seasons, cooking with truffles – I just couldn’t get enough.

My foodie obsession to eat in Copenhagen? Smørrebrød.

Although I had never heard of smørrebrød before I started planning my Copenhagen visit, it didn’t take much reading to become intrigued even before I went. These open-faced sandwiches sounded to me a lot like the Danish version of Spanish tapas or Venetian cicchetti, and I always jump at the chance to have small bites on the road when I can, because it means sampling more dishes of the local cuisine.

The more I ate smørrebrød and their balance of flavors and textures, the more I wanted to seek out just one more version, sampling yet another new combination to eat in Copenhagen. And the more I wanted to know about the culture surrounding them.

What is Smørrebrød

Not only was smørrebrød listed as the top local food to try, there is an art and science to how each slice is constructed. It’s definitely not your basic open-faced sandwich. It literally means buttered bread, and then anything else can be piled high for that perfect bite.

Smørrebrød starts with a slice of dark, rye bread, often with seeds or nuts inside, although certain toppings merit a different type of hearty bread. Then there is butter or lard of some kind spread across the bread from end to end. I enjoyed the extra richness and thought it was to add flavor – which it is in part – but of course those clever Danes also know the layer of fat keeps the bread from getting soggy as you pile on the other ingredients.

From there, the only limit to what goes on a smørrebrød is the imagination of the chef, although there is a focus on local ingredients as well as creating a balance of both flavors and textures. And of course the final products should be visually appealing as well.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Apr 30, 2018 at 8:02am PDT

The smørrebrød I saw most frequently were either seafood or meat based. Copenhagen has been known for its herring for centuries, especially in pickled form, and you’ll see plenty of herring smørrebrød options. There are also tiny shrimp and other types of fresh and smoked fish that are almost always offered. In terms of meat, there were a lot of variations of roast beef with some type of horseradish and also various pates. And if you still have space after both seafood and meat smørrebrød, usually the final traditional smørrebrød you’ll eat in Copenhagen is topped with cheese.

A slice of smørrebrød really is constructed, with the different ingredients built on top of one another into a work of art that also happens to be delicious. Proteins typically get layered first, then are topped by a series of garnishes. These toppings are chosen to add color, crunch, or perhaps moisture via a jam or remoulade.

Although originally a lunch on the go for factory workers in the late 1800s, today’s smørrebrød can be a snack, a hearty lunch, or part of a spread while hosting a party.

Just don’t forget to eat these piled-high creations like the Danes do – with a fork and knife.

Why Smørrebrød Intrigued Me

Maybe I’ve just been impacted by the Italian way of life after my 3 years living there, but there is something I find appealing about particular acceptable combinations of local flavors developed over the centuries.

And smørrebrød definitely fits the bill.

Yes, it’s food. In some cases, it’s a way to repurpose leftovers. And to highlight local specialties.

But it’s really the Danish sensibility that gets me. The balance of flavors – sweet and salty and sour and bitter – just like you’d find in Asian cuisine. The textural contrasts between often soft pieces of fish or meat, topped by crunchier elements like fried onions or crispy bacon. And the culture of design in Denmark that leads to expertly layered smørrebrød where the final product has a great balance of the size and colors of the different components.

Luckily my servers at smørrebrød spots around Copenhagen were friendly and helpful, guiding me through lengthy menus and helping me to fully appreciate these beautiful bites.

What to Drink with Smørrebrød

Of course, the smørrebrød experience is not only about savoring the food, there are traditional beverage pairing as well. Or really, two main ones.

Beer is the go-to drink to accompany smørrebrød for many locals. There will likely be multiple beers on tap at any smørrebrød restaurant. Servers were great at pointing me toward traditional options, and there are several breweries in the city of Copenhagen, so I tried to sample as many different local brews as I could.

The other far more potent beverage pairing for smørrebrød is aquavit, a local type of schnapps that is infused with different herbs and flavors. So of course this means that only certain types of aquavit go with certain types of smørrebrød, but rest assured there will be an ideal chilly sip of aquavit to pair with any food you’ve ordered. The few times I enjoyed aquavit, I usually only had it with my final smørrebrød, and left it up to the server to decide which flavor would be best.

But like with other local, traditional food and beverage pairings I’ve enjoyed in my travels, it all just goes so well together.

Best Places to Enjoy Smørrebrød in Copenhagen

There are plenty of spots around Copenhagen to enjoy smørrebrød, but not every spot you see is worth eating at. For some delicious plates of smørrebrød in Copenhagen, check out the following places:

Cafe Gammel Torv

Serving up smørrebrød since 1910, this spot is a classic location that has maintained a lot of the same décor from when it first opened. Fish is its specialty, with a lot of different herring options available, and plenty of other smørrebrød options as well as their extensive beer and aquavit selection. If you’re having trouble deciding which smørrebrød to order, there is also a lunch tasting menu available.

TIP! This spot is not open on Sundays, except for the first Sunday of the month.

Hallerne Smørrebrød

There are a few market locations around town, and I visited the one in Torvehallerne. The Torvehallerne market is a stop on a lot of food tours, so there was a mix of locals and tourists in the queue. This was actually my first moment spotting smørrebrød the morning after I arrived and they all looked so beautiful I couldn’t resist purchasing (and immediately sampling!) a delicious few.

Restaurant Kronborg

Thanks to the friendly service and convivial atmosphere (and delicious bites, of course), this was my favorite smørrebrød restaurant of my time in Copenhagen. Their cozy atmosphere makes the food experience even more pleasant, and the waiter offered excellent advice on both food and aquavit pairings. This was also one of the few places, where I got to assemble my own smørrebrød – the fried camembert with jam and fried parsley on rye.

TIP! Restaurant Kronborg has the additional benefit of being open 7 days a week.

Even, the Aamann’s stand I spotted at the airport had some great looking bites, and I couldn’t resist one more smørrebrød that I ate on the plane ride home. (They also have several locations around the city of Copenhagen.)

I didn’t realize this when I booked my trip, but I ended up visiting during a public holiday weekend, so every restaurant I wanted to sample was not open, especially on the holiday Monday. Several smørrebrød spots operate only during the week and there are others that are closed on Sunday and public holidays.

The other main two spots that came up in my research and are ones that I’d like to check out on my next visit:

Rita’s Smørrebrød. A more local spot that is a bit away from most tourist attractions in a residential area, this spot is only open Monday through Friday.

Restaurant Schoennemann. Possibly the most historical (and fancy) of all the smørrebrød options, there is a wealth of options at this spot, categorized by the protein used. In addition to the mainstays, you’ll also find venison, duck, and veal as smørrebrød on their menu. Open since 1877, it’s had plenty of time to build up its reputation, so online bookings are recommended. It is closed on Sundays and public holidays.

You can see how I couldn’t get enough smørrebrød during my long weekend in Copenhagen, and I’m not alone in my fascination. Lonely Planet recently named eating smørrebrød in Copenhagen as one of the top 10 food experiences in the world.

So what are you waiting for, head to Copenhagen and try them for yourself!

Have you ever tried smørrebrød? What else do you seek out in your travels? Have you experienced a singular obsession in a specific destination like I have? Tell me in the ‘Comments’ to inspire what obsession I should seek out next in my travels!

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Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

December 8, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Whether you’re a visitor who’s looking to do some aperitivo hopping one of your nights in Milan, or you live in the city and are looking to add some new aperitivo spots in Milan to your repertoire, there are a wealth of options to choose from.

If you’re not familiar, aperitivo is not only a pre-dinner drink to whet your appetite, but also includes some small snacks at a minimum. And in some cases, a full buffet of food that can substitute for dinner. Check out a previous blog post for more about aperitivo, what drinks are typical, and why you want to experience it first-hand.

In general, aperitivo lasts from around 6 to 9pm, although exact hours vary place to place. If you’d like to sit outside or arrive several hours in, you may want to make a reservation. Otherwise, your best bet can just be to show up early and snag a table then. Most drinks are in the €8-12 range, although the posher places will be a bit pricier. And at some – but not all – places, your second drink (seconda consumazione) will be at a slightly cheaper price.

Milan is the city where aperitivo originated, so there are seemingly endless options for where to go. Two neighborhoods have clusters of places for aperitivo spots in Milan: Corso Sempione close to the Arch of Peace (Arco della Pace) and Milan’s canal zone called Navigli, close to the Porta Genova metro stop on the green line. If you’re going to do some aperitivo hopping, the Navigli area is probably the best place to go as it has the most variety and certainly the largest number of options.

But there are great options for aperitivo spots in Milan all across the city, which I’ve listed in two different categories, based on how much food you’ll get along with your drink:

Drinks and Nibbles

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Aperol Terrace

Come early to snag a seat on their outdoor terrace overlooking the Duomo, Milan’s central cathedral. Aperol is one of the main spritz ingredients, and there cocktail list has an interesting variety of Aperol cocktails to choose from (as well as other drinks). Small bites will arrive with your drinks, and are great nibbles as you sip your drink and enjoy the view.

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Duomo 21 Terrace

The cocktails here aren’t quite as nice as the Aperol Terrace listed above, but I think the view is better! And it’s a great option when the line at Aperol Terrace is so long it is snaking down the stairway like it was on my most recent visit. There are a few small nibbles that arrive with your drinks but the view of the Duomo will keep you lingering.

TIP! Part of the reason it’s less crowded here is that it’s a bit harder to find. When you get to the entryway below the terrace, follow the signs with arrows back to the left to take the further elevator upstairs.

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FAB

Relatively new to the Navigli canal area is this bar with incredibly delicious cocktails and small bites fit for even the most discerning Milanese tastes. It’s also a bit down the canal from where most people enter so my friend and I had no wait to sit outside on a weekend evening. Definitely a great first stop for “aperitivo hopping” in this area packed with great options or as the pre-dinner drink and nibbles I enjoyed when I visited.

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Lacerba

Off the yellow line of the metro and several tram spots, there is a cocktail bar and sister restaurant next door, and the cocktails are exceptional. There are tons of options, all well-balanced and with some interesting flavor combinations. There is a fairly sizeable plate of snacks that will arrive with your drinks, which can even be made vegetarian – just ask your server.

Mag Cafe

Located in the Navigli canal zone, this is often a first stop for me on a night of aperitivo bar hopping because the cocktails are excellent and if the outdoor seating is full, it is equally fun in the quirky inside seating area. And when your drink is served, in addition to a small plate of charcuterie and cheese, there is usually some kind of cute accompaniment. My most recent cocktail there came with its own custom postcard, which includes the recipe for the drink.

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Nottingham Forest

The only Milan spot to be voted as one of the World’s 50 Best Bars, the cocktails here are works of art and whimsy. It’s quite tiny, so either reserve or be waiting outside the door when the bar opens. And plan to spend a bit of time here, as it may take you the first half hour just to leaf through the book that serves as the menu and make your choice. The drinks are not only delicious, but fun – the one meant to be like a science experiment is bright blue and arrives in a beaker with what looks like soap suds up top. Another in a high heel. So yeah, it’s that kind of place, with small plates of nibbles to accompany your cocktails creations. One of the most unique aperitivo spots in Milan you can visit!

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Rita & Cocktails

This spot is a bit further up the Naviglio Grande in the canal zone from the main entry point, so it takes a bit longer to fill up and get busy, so it’s a great spot to seek out later in the evening. The cocktail list is interesting and vast, but presented in a manageable little booklet to help you decide based on what flavors you’d like. There are quite a few small snacks that come with the drinks, but there is also a full kitchen so if you stick around long enough you can also order a proper dinner dish, which is also tasty.

UGO

This is another spot in the Navigli zone, with small snacks so the focus is on the cocktails. There is a shorter set list of cocktails here, which makes deciding a bit easier than some of the other spots on this list. And since it is on a side street and not along the canal itself, it tends to be more relaxed while still lively. Even arriving later in the evening, I’ve never had to wait long for a seat.

Drinks and Full Food Buffet

hclub>diana at Sheraton Diana Majestic Hotel

Of this list of top aperitivo spots in Milan that include a full buffet, I like the cocktails here best – and you’ll pay a premium for them. Which I don’t mind, because there is a food buffet that rotates throughout the night and is also quite good. This is an especially coveted aperitivo spot when the weather is warm, as there is a vast outdoor garden with a lot of seating. It’s also a spot to dress on the nice side, officially “smart casual.”

Living

This is the only spot in this post that is along the Corso Sempione stretch I mentioned above, as I find it to be a cut above the other nearby spots I’ve frequented. Outdoor seating goes quickly, so come early or reserve, and enjoy the variety of their high-quality food buffet. And if you’d like to hop around I’d start here first, but there are many other places to check out nearby as well.

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Long Island & Manhattan

I’ve grouped these two Navigli locations together because they are sister bars that share a kitchen, and are only a few doors apart from one another. You’ll get to enjoy piping hot pizza by the slice and dessert options, things that are not part of your typical aperitivo buffet. I’ve probably been to these the most of any spots on the list, because if you’re going to hit up one spot for aperitivo, you’ll get fed well here and get to experience the nightlife of the canal area. And the names come from the cocktails I believe, not the parts of New York, so you’ll see many different variations of a Long Island Iced Tea and Manhattan on the cocktail menus.

Spritz

Spritz has a similar buffet to Long Island & Manhattan, and is also located in the Navigli area. Its cocktails are notable for the many variations they offer of the spritz, one of the typical aperitivo drinks. If you’re planning to reserve a spot, they usually organize into two seatings: one around 6pm and the second around 8:30pm. There is quite a lot of indoor seating as well, so it’s also a place you can probably just show up as long as it’s not too late in the evening.

Was your favorite aperitivo spot in Milan left off the list? Or which of the places above is your go-to for aperitivo? Let me know in the Comments below.

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Top 6 Things to Eat (and Drink) in Florence

September 13, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Tuscan food is world-renowned for its flavors and comfort, and include things that were considered peasant food, with simple, bold flavors and a richness that make this many people’s favorite regional cuisine in Italy. While visiting Florence (which is located in the region of Tuscany), here are my top items to seek out to explore the dishes local to the area:

Ribollita.

This is a bean soup, thickened with bread, and made with a hodgepodge of vegetables (a peasant’s soup of sorts, with various leftovers in the household traditionally being added in). Although a hallmark of Italian cuisine is having a few ingredients in the correct proportions, ribollita breaks that mold entirely. When Season 4 of MasterChef Australia (TM) filmed some episodes in Italy, one of the challenges was guessing all of the ingredients in a traditional ribollita – and there were 28!

Crostini di fegato.

Slices of bread, which are sometimes toasted, and topped with a chicken liver pate. It is very typical of the area, and available on most restaurant’s menus. I happen to love liver, and try to grab at least one crostino with each of my meals in Florence.

Bistecca alla fiorentina.

Literally meaning “Florentine steak/steak made in the Florentine style” this is a particular type of bone-in, thick cut steak which is seared on the outside and fairly raw on the inside. When prepared well, there will be huge amounts of flavor and very easily-chewed bites of delectable beef. Most restaurants have a minimum order of either 500 grams (~1 pound) or 1 kilo (~2 pounds). A dish that is meant to be shared!

Fagioli all’uccelletto.

This is a typical side dish (contorno) made with cannellini beans that are stewed with tomatoes, garlic, sage, and other spices. While it sounds simple, you have not fully experienced the flavor of cannellini beans until you taste this preparation. There is a hearty richness to it that is deeply satisfying and a great accompaniment to the grilled meats you’ll find on nearly every menu.

Tuscan red wine.

There is a wealth of excellent red wine that comes out of Tuscany, from the house red in a woven basket already on your restaurant table when you sit, to the famed varietals of Chianti, Montepulciano, Brunello di Montalcino . . . the list goes on. Sample some with your meals and find your favorite – maybe even take some home as a tasty souvenir of your trip.

Cantuccini con Vin Santo.

You will see this on most dessert menus (the list of dolci) as either cantucci or cantuccini, which are tiny nut biscotti to be dipped into the Vin Santo, a local dessert wine. Vin Santo almost tastes like a tawny port sometimes, although it is not actually fortified as a port would be. The nuttiness and texture of the cantuccini and the strength and flavor of the Vin Santo moistening them are a perfect pairing.

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

What’s your favorite Tuscan dish?

Buon appetito!

Lana

Most Frequently Asked Questions about visiting Florence

September 16, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Florence is becoming a more an more popular tourist destination with each passing year. With the richness of the art there, and the flavorful Tuscan food that will have you savoring your every meal, it is not coming off tourist itineraries any time soon. In recent years, it has become even more popular, especially as the Euro has become more affordable for travelers from outside of Europe.

Over my nearly three years living in Italy, I’ve probably been to Florence around ten different times, most recently last week. Fortunately for me it is a leisurely three-hour drive from Milan or 1 hour 40 minutes on the high-speed train. And since many visitors to Italy have this as a must-see destination, I’ve mostly gone with family and friends who come to visit Milan and pass through Florence at some point as well – the food is so good, I’m always up for a trip.

Why visit?

You probably don’t need any convincing if you’re still reading, but there are some lovely highlights in Florence that make it such a memorable destination. There is a wealth of incredible art in the many churches and galleries throughout the city, and the cuisine is quite memorable. The highlights from my many visits are:

the Duomo (the main cathedral) in stunning white, reddish pink, and green marble with its iconic dome
the original David statue by Michaelangelo in the Galleria dell’Accademia
Ponte Vecchio, the old pedestrian bridge across the Arno River
many towers and hills with expansive views of the city
the food and wine – Tuscany is widely considered one of the best places to eat in Italy

When is tourist season?

Well, I was there in mid-March this year, and it was already crowded. For 2016, I would say that high tourist season will be from March through October, with the very peak season from May until August. As with all travel, you’ll need to balance wanting to explore the city in nice weather and how many other people you’ll be sharing the experience with.

How much time is needed to experience Florence?

I would say within the city itself, plan to spend 2-3 days, depending on how much you like art or how much (leather) shopping you want to do. If you’re planning to take day trips to other cities in Tuscany or wine regions nearby (Pisa, Chianti, Montalcino, Montepulciano, San Gimmignano, and more), plan for additional time. And be aware that many tourist attractions are closed on Mondays.

What are some ways to minimize time waiting in line and maximize time seeing the sights?

The main way to avoid the queues is to purchase the Firenze Card (Firenze is Florence’s name in Italian). It costs a whopping 72 Euros, but if you plan to see a lot of sights in a limited amount of time, it is a worthy investment. At most sights, you get an expedited line for entry, meaning more time exploring. It also means that you will have the ability to pop in briefly to sights you wouldn’t have otherwise seen, because it is at no additional cost to take a peek. Just be aware that you only get 1 entry to each location, so you can’t just split up a visit to the Uffizi Gallery over two days (or you can, but you’ll have to wait and pay to get in after your one visit on the Card).

If you do not get the Firenze Card, you can still make a few individual reservations to cover the sights that typically have the longest waits. Be sure to book these on the official websites, unless you want a tour included at (an often exorbitant) additional cost. The main places in Florence you’ll want to reserve in advance are the Galleria dell’Accademia, where the original David statue is & the Uffizi Gallery, an incredibly large collection of art rivalling the greatest art museums of the world. The official website to reserve for either site is here.

TIP! Book tickets for a particular time slot in advance if you can. Even if many days look like they have availability, you may be dismayed to find that if you wait until the last minute there is only 1 ticket left in a single timeslot so the day is not “sold out” per se, however your group will not be able to go.

TIP! Like with most tourist destinations, the best time to visit with minimal crowds is first thing in the morning. An early arrival is especially important for visits to the Duomo (doubly so if you’re visiting outside of the Firenze Card), as the line to enter can sometimes snake along the whole length of the piazza.

Why are there both red and blue/black street numbers? (aka: Why can’t I find my hotel?)

It always takes me a little bit to remember this each time I return to Florence and am looking for a specific address – there are two street numbering systems, one in red and one in blue. When you see an address in a guidebook or on your phone’s map, a lot of times it will say 25red or 25/R to indicate where you should be looking. The tricky part is that the actual numbers often do not correspond at all. So on one block you might have 25, 27, 29. and 31 in red numbers. And then randomly interspersed between them, 62, 64, 66, and 68 in black (red is for businesses, blue or black numbering is for private residences – although if your hotel is a single floor in a larger building it may have a blue/black number, so search carefully before concluding you’re lost).

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence, Italy

Why is there a bottle of wine already on my table when I go to a restaurant?

No, this is not just for decoration! While there will likely also be a formal wine list with bottles from particular wineries, many restaurants in Florence have a respectable house wine often in a wide bottomed bottle with a thin woven basket around the lower half. You can drink as much as you like, and they will eyeball how much is left at the end of the meal, and charge you accordingly. With this kind of hospitality you’ll never want to leave =)

What were the pressing questions on your mind when you visited Florence? Or are you planning a visit and have other questions I can help answer? Let me know in the Comments below.

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Rock Climbing in Red Rock Canyon: Day Trip from Las Vegas, Nevada

March 7, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 14 comments

Perfectly situated for an ideal city escape, Las Vegas has the casinos, restaurants, & attractions you’d expect, but even standing among the bright lights of the Strip you can still see the desert beyond. And fortunately, natural wonders like Red Rock Canyon are just a short drive away.

How do you escape the tourist hordes that flock from the city to Red Rock Canyon? By going rock climbing of course!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BbjskCEntkN/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

There are so many climbing spots that you can escape the main paths and get up close and personal with the red rock formations all around, and there are climbing routes for every ability level – even if you’ve never climbed before.

I knew before I even booked my trip to Vegas that I wanted to rock climb in Red Rock Canyon while I was there (I’ve been climbing over 20 years & climb whenever I can in my travels!) so sought out a guide for the day who knows the area and could provide equipment for the day.

In the end I went rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon with Mountain Skills, a small company accustomed to providing a personalized experience. They connect you with a local, knowledgeable guide whose goal is for YOU to have an incredible time.

After my rewarding full day out on the rock with guide Taylor, I can definitely say, “mission accomplished.”

Rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon

Rock climbing was the first thing I knew I wanted to do on a trip to Las Vegas – and yes, this is even before any of the casinos, restaurants, or shows on the Strip! Red Rock Canyon is stunningly beautiful, and my day rock climbing there was a definite highlight of my time in Vegas.

Of course I knew the canyon was named after the red-colored rock you find there, but I was still taken aback by how the rocks and dirt are just so red. If you’ve ever been to Australia’s ‘Red Centre,’ you know what I’m talking about. Plus, throughout Red Rock Canyon there are really interesting rock formations that extend for miles – a rock climbing dream!

It was just me and the guide rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon, so I had a completely personalized experience tailored to what I had discussed with Mountain Skills when booking the day and also with guide Taylor that morning. I did a bunch of easier long climbs, then after warming up moved on to some challenging sections.

Even though I’ve been rock climbing a long time, it’s always exhilarating when I reach the top of a climb – muscles pumped, heart racing, the satisfaction of hitting my target – and then taking a pause at the end of the climb to let my body and breathing catch up. The whole experience is magnified being outdoors in beautiful surroundings, soaking up a breathtaking view from the top.

The satisfaction of rock climbing outdoors is just as good if it’s your 1^st climb or your 1,000^th climb.

Of course, what goes up must come down, and I also had a blast rappelling down several of the climbs.

Usually when there is someone belaying you on the rope, that person would just lower you down. My guide, Taylor, was great about asking about whether I wanted to rappel and setting up the ropes so I could lower myself – which meant going at a speed of my choosing and also being able to stop at various points and just take in the amazing views.

Sure, it’s nice to hike around Red Rock Canyon (which plenty of visitors were doing) but there is just a different, satisfying perspective that you get hanging off the edge of a giant rock face.

When my hands were tired and my muscles were sore, I also had a chance to explore some of the red rocks on foot, and take in some pretty incredible landscapes.

And the road that runs through Red Rock Canyon is a 13-mile one-way loop, so there’s a scenic drive through the entire area on the way out at the end of the climbing day.

Why I seek out a rock climbing guide when I travel

If you were reading closely up until now, you may have caught the fact that I have been rock climbing for over two decades. Even though I started many years ago, I still enjoy it so much that I go several times a week when I’m at home.

I also seek out rock climbing when I travel as much as I can, and so far have rock climbed outside in 7 countries! (Australia, Egypt, Israel, Italy, Thailand, Vietnam, & the US for those of you keeping track.)

You might be thinking at this point – “Lana, you sure sound experienced, so why do you rock climb with a guide on the road?”

For me, there are a few factors that tip the scales. Unless I am rock climbing close to where I live with climbing buddies I trust, I always seek out a guide.

If you’re not already familiar with rock climbing, unless you engage in the nail-bitingly dangerous (and often lethal) sport of free climbing with no safety gear, you tend to climb with another person.

If you are ascending with a rope, you’ll want a skilled person on the other end of the rope to serve as your “belayer,” holding onto the rope and ready to catch you if you fall at a moment’s notice. Even if you’re “bouldering” – doing shorter sections that don’t go as high off the ground – you’ll want someone to spot you and help break your fall if needed.

My travel these days is about half solo travel and half traveling with someone else or a group. Even on those trips where I have a traveling companion, it’s very rare though that I am traveling with a fellow rock climber.

Which means I’ll need someone else to rock climb anyway. A guide.

Benefits of a guide

For me, there are a few key benefits of having a guide for outdoor rock climbing, which is why I seek out guided rock climbing in my travels again and again.

Access to the rock climbing route.

Depending on where you are in the world, it’s not always so obvious or accessible to get to the area with rock climbing routes. For climbing on an island in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam or far away from the tourist hubs in the Sinai Peninsula of Egypt or inside a cave in northern Thailand, going with a guide typically means they will transport you to what may be a hard-to-find or hard-to-access climbing locale. And you don’t have to worry about getting lost on the way!

Knowledge of rock climbing areas.

When I’ve climbed outdoors without a guide it’s only been in countries I was living in (the US and Italy) because I went often enough to be familiar with the routes or had a guidebook or went with a local friend who knew the climbing areas – or all three!

If you have a thorough guidebook with reliable information, you may be able to find climbing areas on your own, but in the end nothing beats local knowledge of climbing areas from the people who rock climb there regularly. Books can be out of date and storms can rearrange landscapes, so even with a good source, a person to serve as a guide is still the best bet.

Rock climbing equipment.

First off, if you’ve never rock climbed before or have only tried it a few times, you probably don’t have any rock climbing equipment of your own. Which is fine, because your guide can provide this!

For any frequent rock climbers out there with their own gear like me may encounter some of the other challenges I’ve faced. Several of the trips when I’ve gone rock climbing have been part of 2-4 week journeys of me backpacking around, meaning that luggage space was tight. It is both bulky and heavy to bring climbing equipment with you on the road if you’re not traveling by car. You may not want to lug it around for your whole trip.

On my most recent trip to Vegas when I climbed in Red Rock Canyon, I flew a discount carrier that only allowed one small bag of luggage. And just imagine how bulky and heavy 70 meters (over 200 feet) of rope can be!

Usually I’ll bring my own climbing shoes that I’ve already broken in – and sometimes my own harness – but leave it up to the guide to provide the majority of the gear needed for a rock climbing excursion outside.

Arranging rock climbing with Mountain Skills

As I’ve mentioned, I’ve done a fair bit of guided rock climbing in many countries, and Mountain Skills was one of my all-time easiest experiences from start to finish. It was easy to arrange through the website, the team was communicative and clear about what was needed and included, and the day itself went smoothly.

The model of Mountain Skills is to have a bunch of potential guides in all their locations, including by Red Rock Canyon, so they were able to accommodate my first choice of date. I received detailed instructions to the meeting point and about what was needed as well as prompt communication when the original guide was sick and someone else came in her place.

My office contact discussed my ability level beforehand so that my ultimate guide Taylor knew in advance which areas would be best for the day. This is the time to communicate what you’re comfortable with or interested in doing for the day, so don’t be shy!

Even if you’re not going to Las Vegas any time soon, Mountain Skills also has experienced guides in other parts of the US, like upstate New York and New Mexico, as well as international rock climbing opportunities in Mexico and Thailand.

There is the option for half-day or full-day climbing, as well as multi-pitch for more advanced climbers, with the price per person depending on the number of people in your group. Groups are kept deliberately small to give you personalized attention and keep everyone safe.

In Las Vegas, summers can get very hot, so peak rock climbing season is during the spring and fall.

For insurance reasons you need a vehicle to access Red Rock Canyon from the city, but I found it quite reasonable to rent a car for the day – and I even got a free upgrade from my basic economy option to a blue Mustang convertible.

TIP! Many hotels have car rental places inside, so even if you’re staying on the Las Vegas Strip, you may have some good nearby options for this.

TIP! If you can’t find what you’re looking for at your hotel or a nearby one, it’s a quick ride to the airport to rent a car from the wider selection there.

I had a wonderful experience and would definitely climb with Mountain Skills again, and hope to make it make to the dramatic landscapes of Red Rock Canyon for some more rock climbing!

What activities do you seek out in your travels? Have you every tried rock climbing? What gets you into the great outdoors when you’re visiting a city? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Note: I received a discount in exchange for sharing my rock climbing experience with Mountain Skills on my blog. My opinions, as always, are entirely my own.

Winter Bucket List: Making the Most of the Season

December 7, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Where has the year gone?!? I feel like I say this every December, and this year is no exception.

I started off this year with high hopes and grand plans, and I am happy to say that I have made many of them a reality. Others will have to wait another year, but in the meantime a new season is rapidly approaching.

Let me start off by saying I’m a summer baby, and luxuriate in warm – and even hot – weather. Too stifling? Jump in a pool or go to the beach.

Winter, though. That’s a whole other story.

Many of the things that made my ‘Winter Bucket List’ are all about ways to warm up when the frigid temperatures set in, and there’s nothing wrong with that. And for some of this, yes, you’ll have to bundle up and brave the cold weather for some frolicking in the snow.

And it will be worth it.

Read on for my plans for the season, and I’d love to hear yours!

This is what I hope to be up to in the coming months:

Marvel at the holiday decorations

I bet wherever you are in the world, places around you light up for the holidays. I’ve seen some of the most unexpected places – Israel and Sri Lanka come to mind – decked out with brightly colored “Christmas” lights. I love seeing the designs and creativity that go into the displays, so take advantage of the places around you that light up this time of year and just take it all in.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BONzO3Vg3Gl/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Go skiing

Ever since I learned to ski at the wee age of 28 (let’s not talk about how long ago that was), I’ve really embraced the fun. I’m not a double black diamond, speed-down-the-slope kind of gal – although good for you if you are – but even at my medium pace, I love feeling the wind rush by and the thrill of speed as I head downhill. Any winter sport can be fun though, whether it’s snowboarding or ice skating.

Play in the snow

Why not? Frolicking in the soft, powdery white stuff is not just for children. Whether you’re doing an actual activity like sledding or snow tubing, or just having a snowball fight with friends, take some time and appreciate this crazy substance that literally falls from the sky.

Sip a hot beverage

Nothing to help warm you up from the cold like a hot beverage. I love a thick, gooey hot chocolate with marshmallows or whipped cream and especially enjoy some mulled wine for strolling out in the cold. I’ve even been known to heat up egg nog. Whether it’s a cuppa or a hot apple cider or possibly a spiked version of your favorite warm drink, savor it.

Hang out in front of a fireplace

I don’t have a fireplace at home – I know, epic fail! – but I do love sitting in front of a fire. Feeling the warmth and being mesmerized as the flames dance in haphazard directions is one of my beloved ways to pass time in winter. So when I go away for a weekend, it’s something I’ll seek out before choosing where to book my accommodations.

Visit a hot tub or sauna

Another thing I’ll look for when I make winter travel plans? Whether a hotel has a hot tub or sauna. Especially if I’ll be doing some activities outdoors, I love being able to relax my muscles and warm up in the heat. Bonus if you can find a hot tub or hot springs to enjoy outside!

Nibble on roasted chestnuts

I may have grown up singing about chestnuts roasting on an open fire, but it wasn’t until my time living in Europe that I really appreciated the flavor of a freshly roasted chestnut picked up from a street vendor on a stroll through a holiday market. I haven’t seen any stateside this season, but I am keeping an eye out.

Enjoy a holiday party

This doesn’t need to be a formal work event, as most cities and towns have all sorts of celebrations for the holidays, from parades to bar crawls. So far this season I’ve enjoyed a holiday celebration with small bites and lots of vino at my local Wine Market and an Ugly Sweater Party with friends. Probably have a few more celebrations up my sleeve, and can’t wait for the upcoming festivities.

Curl up with some comfort food

Chilled soup in winter? I think not. I’m all about hearty (hot) soups and stews this time of year, for something that will warm you up as it fills you up. Or, taking a page out of the northern Italian playbook, some stick-to-your-ribs polenta or risotto. Or the Swiss favorites I was thinking of just the other day – fondue and raclette – a.k.a. melted cheese yumminess.

Take a hike

While I won’t rock climb in weather so cold I can’t feel my fingers, there are ample ways to bundle up to get outdoors for a stroll or hike in winter. Certainly dress appropriately for the weather, and then enjoy the different sights, sounds, and smells that nature provides this season. And since most people save hiking for hotter temperatures, you’re more likely to have the trail all to yourself.

Travel somewhere warm!

Okay, this may sound like cheating (shouldn’t winter be about embracing the cold?) but nothing makes you appreciate a warm destination more than arriving from winter somewhere. Don’t worry, you don’t have to go far the edge of the opposite hemisphere, there are plenty destinations not far from the equator that will be relatively easy to get to wherever you are.

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Watch sunrise more

I’m more of a sunset than sunrise kind of gal, as I’m not much of a morning person. The rest of the year, my 7am commute to work is firmly in the hours of sunlight, but in wintertime the sun makes its appearance much later in the morning. No 4am wakeup needed, take advantage of later sunrise in the wintertime and set your alarm to wake up just a wee bit earlier and catch it more often!

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What do you have planned for the winter? Anything I should add to my ‘Winter Bucket List’? What’s your favorite winter comfort food? Tell me all about in in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Best Things to Eat & Drink in Milan for the Holidays

December 20, 2016 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Europe overall is quite festive for the holidays, especially with the prevalence of Christmas markets, each with a different flavor depending on the country you’re in. I’ve already written about how to enjoy Milan for the holidays, covering the concerts and markets and special events that extend from early December into January. But of course, you’ll need plenty of snacks and drinks to keep you going through the hours on your feet in the cold, winter air as you do your holiday shopping.

There is plenty of stick-to-your-ribs comfort food that is part of everyday Milanese cuisine, from polenta to meat stews to risotto. But for me, it’s the hot beverages and seasonal desserts of Milan and its outdoor markets that really nurture the soul at holiday time. Here are the foods and drinks I always seek out to get into the holiday spirit:

Vin Brulé

This is what the Italians call mulled wine, which I always found interesting because while the name sounds French, the French actually refer to it as vin chaud (hot wine). In any case, the best spot to find vin brulé is at one of Milan’s many holiday markets, where the hot wine will have had time to steep in the many spices that give it such a holiday aroma. There is no shortage of stands selling vin brulé, so follow your nose.

Roasted Chestnuts

Growing up in America and listening to songs about “chestnuts roasting on an open fire,” it was one of those lyrics that just sounded good. Fast forward to living in Milan – people really do roast chestnuts, and this is one of the most common street vendors you’ll see at holiday time pretty much everywhere, and especially at any outdoor Christmas market. It is such a smoky, nutty taste of winter, and is a product you can’t usually find at other times of year, so take advantage while you can.

Cioccolata Calda

Hot chocolate in Milan is closer to a solid than a liquid, with actual chocolate melted into a deliciously thick concoction usually “eaten” with a spoon and occasionally sipped. It’s a bit heavier than having a cup of vin brulé, but is a very satisfying way to warm you up and fulfill your craving for something sweet. Cioccolata calda is widely available at holiday markets, and also can be found at nearly every coffee bar. If you don’t see a sign advertising it, ask – they probably have it.

Panettone/Pandoro

Panettone is a Milanese holiday dessert that you only see in December and early January. It’s like a much airier version of a fruitcake, with a soft, wispy, yeasty dough dotted with canditi – candied pieces of fruit. If you’re like me and don’t like the canditi, you can always opt for the Northern Italian cousin pandoro, which is minus the fruit and raisins.

A slice or whole loaf of panettone is widely available at any of the holiday markets, but ask any Milanese and they’ll tell you that the best version you’ll ever eat comes from Pasticcieria Marchesi. (It was the delectable Marchesi version that was happily devoured at the last holiday party I hosted, pictured above.) When you buy it whole, it comes with a packet of powdered sugar and a plastic bag so you can shake it yourself and coat the panettone or pandoro so it’s ready for serving.

Gelato

Hear me out on this one. Gelato is made with seasonal ingredients, so you can get some excellent ones with holiday flavor profiles. I find after a minute or two inside a well-heated gelateria I am all ready to savor some winter concoctions, cold as they may be. Pictured here is my favorite winter flavor: zucca (or squash/pumpkin) from Milan’s Ciacco gelateria.

What foods get you into the holiday state of mind? Are there any other holiday treats you’ve enjoyed in Milan that I should add to my list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Finding Zero Mile in Detroit

October 20, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 13 comments

“You’re going to Detroit? Why? Isn’t in dangerous there?”

It’s a question I received again and again leading up to my long weekend in Detroit, Michigan, to spend time with friends from Milan, Italy (random, I know). Not only was I looking forward to catching up with them, but also to exploring an American city I had never visited for the first time.

And then, the inevitable follow-up question in the conversation would come: “Isn’t that where the movie 8 Mile was filmed?”

It seems that most Americans’ (and foreigners’) ideas of Detroit come from the movie 8 Mile, based in large part on rapper Eminem’s upbringing and struggles growing up in the rough neighborhoods around the road ‘8 Mile’ in Detroit, a de facto dividing line between black and white, and poor and rich communities still.

Given that the Detroit reference point for most people was a road counting out 8 miles from the center of town – and that there are lots of other “mile” roads counting out from the city before and after it – I expected the central point, or zero mile marker, to be obvious.

But let’s back up a little bit.

Kilometer Zeros Around the World

As most of the world is on the metric system, it is far more typical to see a ‘kilometer zero’ than a ‘zero mile’ marker, but there are plenty of both to be found all over (thanks, British Empire).

For anyone who’s visited the famous Cathedral Notre-Dame in Paris, France, you may have come across this marker perched in the cobblestones out front like I did:

It was a bit of a ritual for me to seek out the point from which all roads in France are measured, especially in such a lovely locale in Paris’s center.

Although I haven’t been to Madrid, Spain yet (I know, I know), there is also a quite prominent zero kilometer marker there as well:

Like in France, it marks the highway kilometer counts and is also the central point for the numbered roads within the city of Madrid.

While most of the ‘kilometer zero’ markers are still used and prominent today within the specific city or country where they’re located, few I expected to be as iconic and visible as the ‘zero mile’ in a city known for roads like Six Mile, Seven Mile, Eight Mile, Nine Mile, and so on.

The Quest

Surely, I thought that finding the ‘zero mile’ marker of Detroit to be a quick stop on my first day in town. I was mistaken.

I don’t know how this is possible, but no one knew where it was!

Not my friend who was born and raised in Detroit.
Not my friend who moved there recently and lives right downtown.
Not the guard at the nearby courthouse in the Penobscot Building.
Not even park patrol at Campus Martius, the supposed site itself, while standing with a dozen steps of the actual spot.

I finally located the ‘Zero Mile’ in Detroit on my third try, my final day in town, only realizing then that I had actually been standing right next to it my first day exploring.

Detroit’s Zero Mile Marker

So how long had that thing been around anyway, that nobody seems to know about it?

It took quite a bit of searching on the internet across my multiple searches to even find enough information to locate the spot in the end. And was hard to find even when I knew what to look for. Although Detroit has numbered mile roads that led me to seek a ‘Zero Mile,’ the central spot where counting began is actually known primarily as the ‘Point of Origin.’

Historically, Detroit’s current road system was laid out after an 1805 fire that decimated the city despite causing no fatalities. A local judge created a wheel-and-spoke system modeled after Washington DC’s street layout, designating where the mile count would start.

A 6-foot tall square granite pillar was erected to literally mark the spot where the surveying began, although over time it became buried and hidden, only visible at ground level by the accompanying marker, the ‘Point of Origin.’ The Detroit ‘Point of Origin’ marker used to be easier to find, looking like this:

The Campus Martius park had an overhaul as part of downtown renovations and revitalization, with the park being rededicated in 2004, and according to my research was the location of Detroit’s ‘Point of Origin,’

Despite having seen a picture online of what I now know to be the old ‘Zero Mile’ marker, and knowing the narrow park area contained it, I saw nothing even approaching this photo in my strolling.

So what does it look like today?

As you can see, the marker is quite unobtrusive, with the year after the fire only vaguely visible. You’re only likely to find it if you’re specifically seeking it out!

To get there, go to Campus Martius, a prominent oval-shaped park in central Detroit. Go to the side of the fountain facing the restaurant, and there it is, in the ground, right by the entrance:

I’m not sure why Detroit hasn’t kept the old lettering that boldly announced the presence of the ‘zero mile’ marker, Detroit’s ‘Point of Origin.’ But if you’d like, you too can visit the spot where it all began!

Have you visited any ‘zero mile’ or ‘kilometer zero’ markers either in your hometown or in your travels? Or managed to find Detroit’s ‘Point of Origin’ like I did? Tell me all about it in the Comments, I’d love to visit more!

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7 Reasons to Visit Israel during Chanukah

October 17, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

I hadn’t planned to go to Israel during Chanukah two years ago, it just sort of happened. I knew that I was targeting the first weekend in December for a short trip somewhere, since it was a holiday weekend in Milan. After asking around a bit, I couldn’t find a single friend who was available to travel – most people already had plans.

Then, on a whim, I checked on flight prices to Israel. I have some family there, and since it’s only a 4-hour direct flight from Milan to Tel Aviv, they had been asking me when I’d visit ever since I moved to Europe.

It seemed like the next option to try, just to see. Then up pops EasyJet, one of the European discount carriers, with a fare of €68. Round trip. For direct flights in both directions.

Obviously I took this as a sign, and I booked my flights immediately. Only after that did I realize that my visit would coincide with the Jewish holiday of Chanukah. I was busy with university coursework during Chanukah the year I lived in Israel, so experiencing the fun of Chanukah there as a tourist for the first time was a welcome surprise.

Here’s why Israel is a great destination to visit during Chanukah:

Lights

Chanukah is known as the ‘Festival of Lights’ and just as you might expect, the whole country is decorated in lights during the 8-day celebration. It is a beautiful time of year for a visit, with everywhere from small towns to big cities lit up at night, like you might expect to see in other places for Christmas. You may also get the chance to progressively light Chanukah candles during the eight nights, a special tradition to share even if you aren’t Jewish.

Potato Pancakes

I promise you, I ate lots of latkes during my Chanukah in Israel. They are traditional potato pancakes that are cooked in oil to commemorate the miracle of the holiday, when a small amount of oil lasted unexpectedly for eight nights.

In Israel, I devoured home-cooked latkes at several friends’ and family’s houses, grabbed a few when out for other meals at regular restaurants serving it as a menu special, and snagged a few more when I went to Chanukah parties around Tel Aviv.

What didn’t I do? Photograph any of the ones I ate during my trip! So here’s a shot of latke-making in the US with my family from last year to give you an idea of what to expect:

Doughnuts

Doughnuts as far as the eye can see is the view that will greet you walking into any bakery during the holiday of Chanukah, and this seemed to be the most-consumed Chanukah food. Doughnuts are known in Hebrew as sufganiyot, and you’ll hear that word quite a lot during a holiday visit. Like latkes, they are a traditional festive food because they are fried in oil, commemorating the Chanukah miracle.

Practically, sufganiyot for Chanukah are an excuse for bakeries to take their sweets to the next level, with all sorts of crazy flavor combinations you won’t see at other times of the year. From elaborate decorations to injectable “shots” of doughnut filling, it is a foodie dream to explore all of the different doughnut varieties available. And the good news is, you have 8 nights to do it!

TIP! Jewish holidays go by the lunar calendar, so during the nights of Chanukah you’ll find doughnuts overflowing out of bakeries across the country. On Day 8 of Chanukah, following the eighth night, it’s back to the regular bakery offerings – so get your fix of specialty doughnuts before then!

Other Winter Specialties

In addition to the two traditional Chanukah foods you’ll find in abundance – latkes and sufganiyot – there are also some other winter culinary specialties that if you visit for Chanukah, you’ll get to enjoy just by being there in the right season for it.

Top of that list for me is the Krem Bo, a dessert that comes individually wrapped, and is only available during the winter time. It consists of a circular graham cookie base, a marshmallow-like meringue mixture piled high on top, with a thin coating of chocolate around everything but the bottom.

Since it’s covered in chocolate, it would melt in Israel’s hot climate at other times of year, so is only available during winter. Most convenience stores and markets will have it in one or more flavors – if you don’t see it, just ask!

Another cold weather favorite is the aromatic, creamy Arabic beverage known as sachlav, which will be served at outdoor stands piping hot just like hot chocolate or mulled wine in other parts of the world. Head to the nearest market – or just keep your eyes open around town – and you’ll definitely find a vendor to sample this specialty.

No Special Religious Restrictions

A lot of Jewish holidays are of great religious importance, and observant Jews will treat it like the Sabbath, not using their phones or computers or even turning on lights around the house. The benefit of Chanukah is that it is a relatively minor holiday not subject to the same restrictions.

So other than the typically one Sabbath that will fall over the 8 days of Chanukah, you can cook latkes with your religious friends and family with abandon, which I especially savored this trip since I have extended family members who are observant who I otherwise would not have been able to spend as much time cooking and celebrating with.

TIP! Even if you won’t be hanging out with any religious Jews when you go, there won’t be any special closures of public buses or businesses for Chanukah to worry about and track along with your itinerary.

Festivities

Israelis are always looking for a sibah l’msibah, a reason to party! While Israelis might be traveling at the end of December to spend New Year’s somewhere special, people are typically around through the rest of the month, and celebrate accordingly.

I spent most of my Chanukah in the coastal city of Tel Aviv. It has a bustling nightlife during a regular week, which goes into overdrive for the Chanukah celebrations. There were multiple parties happening across the city on any given night, from low-key gatherings to late-night clubbing on the beach. Get a special taste of festivities across the country by coming during Chanukah!

Great Travel Deals

Late in the year, there is a jump in prices in late November with increased American tourism around when Thanksgiving falls and again between Christmas and New Year’s Day as many people everywhere have work holidays during that time. The typical timing of Chanukah in early-mid December positions it between those other holidays, and I was delighted to find great deals for travel during that period.

Not only did I get possibly my best flight deal ever traveling to Tel Aviv from Milan for cheaper than a domestic train ticket, but other tourist amenities were also cheaper after I arrived. Spending Friday night in Jerusalem was a no-brainer after finding availability at a decent hotel in the center of town for just $60/night, so my budget went just that extra bit farther and I was able to see more throughout the entire trip.

What holiday celebrations have you enjoyed on the road? Have you ever visited Israel during Chanukah? Anything else you want to know before you go? Let me know in the Comments!

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READ MORE ABOUT ISRAEL TRAVEL:
Insider Bucket List: 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel