How to Spend a Weekend in Thessaloniki, Greece

January 29, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Whether you know it as Thessaloniki, Salonika, Salonicco, the second-largest city in Greece is an ideal location for a weekend getaway any time of year.

Regardless of variations, this is a northern Greek gem that does not get nearly enough attention when it comes to destinations in Greece, and you’ll get to explore quite a bit in just a weekend in Thessaloniki.

Thessaloniki is a pretty compact city, so most of the things you’ll want to do will be in easy walking distance:

Taking advantage of walking the central pedestrian area and markets
Checking out ancient ruins peeking through all over town
Strolling the waterfront
Riding a boat
Exploring culture and history at local museums
Savoring bites as you take in the vibrant culinary scene

Plus, there are cheap, easy flights from many other cities in Europe (I spent a weekend in Thessaloniki when I lived in Milan).

Anyone could happily spend a weekend here at any time of year.

Thessaloniki would be easy to do as a solo trip, but I recommend going with a travel buddy or two to maximize the different dishes you can try at the Greek feasts you’ll enjoy at restaurants around town.

When I visited, it just so happened that a friend and I were looking to go somewhere on the weekend of Valentine’s Day. Then a third good friend wanted to join as well – so we started referring to it as our Galentine’s weekend in Thessaloniki, of course. (In case you’re as clueless as I was, Galentine’s Day started as a fake TV holiday and now is a real thing women celebrate on February 13 ^th.)

Whether you’re single or coupled – and our trio was a mix of both – it was a fun excuse to have a weekend away.

Although, really, Thessaloniki is so wonderful you don’t need an excuse. Just go!

Things to See and Do in Thessaloniki

On the Waterfront

White Tower

This is the most iconic building in town, and the one you’ll see most often in connection with the city.

It is a cylindrical building on the waterfront that has been previously used as both a fortress and a prison, and now houses a museum and lookout point on the roof.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Tickets details are HERE and are at a reduced rate during the off-season, from November to March.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’ll be visiting other museums in town, there is a combined ticket available for admission to several different spots.

Boat Rides

Technically, it’s not a “boat tour,” it’s a “floating bar.” Which means that admission is free, but you must by a drink while you’re on board (alcoholic or otherwise).

The boat trip around the harbor will last from 30 minutes to 1 hour, and is well worth it for the fun of being on the water and the great city views you’ll see along the way.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Boats leave from the shore just outside the White Tower.
TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Boats will not go if the weather conditions are bad, so if a boat ride is a priority, check the forecast and plan accordingly.

Walk the Shore

It may not sound like an activity, but the waterfront is lovely!

See “The Umbrellas” by Giorgios Zoggolopoulos

After the White Tower, this sculpture is probably the second most recognizable part of Thessaloniki. Be sure to stroll and see it for yourself:

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Stare up at the Monument of Alexander the Great

The monument is suitably impressive and larger than life to commemorate the local boy who spread Greek influence to far away lands over 2,000 years ago.

Befriend Locals

Everyone is pretty friendly around Thessaloniki. Especially when they think you’re a professional photographer and decide to pose for you!

Around Town

Roman Forum

Like many ruins across Europe, this spot was discovered just decades ago by accident, but is impressive in its scale and how well the stone structures have stood the test of time.

You can appreciate the site just strolling by, but if you’d like to explore more, there is a museum on site as well.

Plateia Aristotelous & The Main Pedestrian Area

Aristotelous Square is one of the more modern areas of the city, and is especially impressive as viewed from the water on a boat ride.

Continuing on from the square is the main pedestrian area, popular with locals, tourists, and street vendors galore. It’s a very scenic part of town overlooking the water.

Modiano Market

There is mixed information online about whether this area is closed temporarily or permanently, but whether it is this historical market or another market in town, it’s a great opportunity to experience the bustle of the market, taste local goodies, and see the various meat, fish, and produce on offer.

The Jewish Museum of Thessaloniki

Through the late 1800s, over 50% of Thessaloniki was Jewish, which is an overwhelming percentage for any city. Thessaloniki’s Jewish population dwindled after the devastating fire of 1917, although it still made up approximately 20% of the city’s population until World War II, when almost all of Thessaloniki’s Jews died in the Holocaust.

The museum gives a window into what Jewish life in the city was like at its peak and a history of the people since then.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The museum is closed from early afternoon on Friday and all day on Saturday in observance of the Jewish Sabbath. If you only have a weekend in Thessaloniki, the museum will only be open on Sunday from 10am-2pm (and does have more hours if you visit during the week).

Arch of Galerius

Dating to the Roman Emperor Galerius in the 4^th century, there are intricate battle scenes carved into every angle of the stone.

Hagios Giorgios/Rotunda

Nearby and dating from the same time period as the Arch of Galerius, the Rotunda is a beautiful building of stone and art worth visiting.

Church/Crypt of Hagios Demetrios

Dedicated to Saint Demetrios, patron saint of Thessaloniki, this is a UNESCO heritage site famous for its mosaics.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Use the stairs next to the altar to descend to the crypt.

Church of Panagia Chalkeon

While young compared to other churches in the city at just around 1,000 years old, there is some beautiful artwork inside and palm trees beautifully surrounding the outside of the church.

Church of Hagia Sofia

Not to be confused with the one in Istanbul, this church is distinctive with its yellow outside, and definitely one of the most crowded – and impressive – churches we saw during our weekend in Thessaloniki.

Monastery of St. Theodora

While this wasn’t on our radar before visiting, we wandered into this central spot and were mesmerized by the intricate decorations and bright colors.

Chasing Views

You’ll get some great views on the waterfront, both from the top of the White Tower and while out on the water on a boat ride.

For the opposite perspective, hike to the upper part of the city (yes, this means uphill!).

Things to see on your way:

Church of Agioi Anagyroi Eptapyrgiou

A beautiful church that is definitely built in a different style than many of the churches in the city center, and features lovely artwork and color.

Heptapyrgion Fortress/Eptapyrgio Castle

With many names all meaning “fortress of seven towers,” this fortress/castle actually boasts ten towers, overlooking the complex and the city below.

It’s still undergoing renovations (and it shows!) but it is worth the uphill trek to reach this spot.

Other Museums to Check Out

We spent more of our time exploring on foot outside, but would have enjoyed checking out these spots if we had more time (or if it had been rainy):

The Archaeological Museum

Museum of Byzantine Culture

Museum of Photography

Where to Eat in Thessaloniki

Let’s be real, one of the main reasons to visit Greece is for the food!

From fresh feta to seafood to sizzling concoctions served tableside, we savored it all as we ate our way through the city.

Our best bites:

Agioli

Right on the promenade overlooking the water, we were able to enjoy the outdoor seating, even though it was February when we visited.

Portions are piled high with some of the delicious seafood specialties Greece and the Mediterranean is known for.

Bazagiazi

Located by Modiani Market (see above), this restaurant was low-key but serving up delicious dishes and oozing with Greek hospitality.

Going for dinner felt like an experience, and it’s obvious why locals flock here for meals.

Mpougátsa

One of the most famous shops that makes the traditional sweet “mpougátsa” of Thessaloniki, this crunchy and somewhat sweet pastry is worth seeking out on your visit.

Mia Feta

This was definitely our most memorable meal of the trip. There is a large communal table in the middle of this shop and restaurant.

From the cheese assortment to other savory baked dishes, each bite here was incredible and the staff was incredibly friendly and accommodating.

The cheese selection is vast and varied, so don’t be shy about ordering a feast!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! You can find their menu in English on their Facebook page HERE.

Negroponte

Serving up small plates that change daily, seating spills out onto the street giving you more opportunity to score a table and enjoy the delicious cuisine.

We sampled a lot of things from the grill, enjoying the feast of dishes that came out one after another our first night in town.

It was quite the welcome to the local food scene!

Where to Drink in Thessaloniki

From coffee to wine to random concoctions from street vendors, there are plenty of local Greek beverages to sample during your stay.

Greek coffee anywhere!

The coffee options around Thessaloniki are seemingly endless, and you’ll want to taste your way through the myriad of excellent options.

Particularly popular with the locals is the Greek frappe, with iced coffee and usually also milky foam on top. You’ll spot Thessaloniki locals drinking frappe regardless of the weather.

PortoGalo

Part restaurant, part wine bar, part wine shop, this centrally located gem has plenty of options for how to enjoy it.

We ended up here for dessert and wine at the end of the night, and were surprised at their vast variety of both Portuguese and international selections to enjoy – including, of course, lots of port dessert wines.

Ristretto | espresso wine bar

Photo Credit: Lisa Gilpin — Photo: Lisa Gilpin

The space is beautiful and I had no idea during our visit that it was actually connected to a hotel.

Although espresso is part of its name, for us it was where we enjoyed some delicious wine our first night in Thessaloniki.

(More) Tips for Visiting

The biggest thing to know for coming to Thessaloniki is to bring your walking shoes!

Once you’re in town, it really is the best way to get around and get the flavor of this historic city.

When you first arrive, which will likely be by airplane, there are plenty of cheap and convenient options to reach the city center.

A taxi will take about a half hour and cost approximately €20. There is also a public bus, the 01X (or 01N at night) that runs frequently and costs approximately €2 per person for around a 45-minute ride, which is how we entered the city.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you plan to take the bus, be sure to identify the stop ahead of time that is closest to your accommodation (in English and Greek!) and have it marked in your phone so you can follow along on GPS as well and disembark at the right spot – we missed our stop and had to backtrack on foot in the rain to reach our hotel!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Get all of your bus questions answered on the English version of the local public transportation site HERE.

As a bustling city, the dining scene in Thessaloniki gets quite crowded on Friday and Saturday nights.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If there is one restaurant at the top of your list, be sure to reserve in advance.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Otherwise, be prepared that you may have to stop at a few places before finding a restaurant with available seating.

Overall, it was a friendly and easy city to visit, and can be very enjoyable even without extensive planning ahead of time.

Where to Stay in Thessaloniki

Even if you don’t plan much about how you’ll spend your time or which restaurants you’ll seek out for meals, you’ll want to arrange a place to sleep ahead of time!

All of the options listed below are quite reasonably priced and very centrally located.

If you visit in a trio or larger group, many of the options have triple rooms or larger suites or family rooms. If you visit solo, many of the options offer single rooms for a discounted price.

Listed in order of approximate price per night, here are my top hotel picks:

Hotel Esperia – Budget Option

(Single/Double/Triple Rooms) This is by far the most budget option on the list, and where we stayed in a budget triple.

It is a bit further from the center than the other options, but offers a great view over the ancient Agora and Roman Forum ruins, and is a great bargain.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

The Caravan Bed & Breakfast – Most Highly Rated

(Double/Triple/Family Rooms) A few blocks closer to the center and the waterfront than Hotel Esperia above, guests rave about its charm and the excellent breakfast that is included in the room price.

This is the most highly rated option listed here, on multiple booking sites.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

The Modernist Hotel – Most Central

(Double/Suite/Family Rooms) Located right off the bustling pedestrian area, guests loved being close to food and shopping, and found the hotel itself to be quiet since it is off one of the side streets.

This is definitely the most centrally located of the options listed here, and quite reasonably priced for what you get.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

Bahar Boutique Hotel – Closest to Best Restaurants

(Single/Double/Executive Rooms) Not quite as central as The Modernist Hotel, however this spot is closest to the part of town with some of the best restaurant options.

Room prices include their excellent breakfast, this is a location with luxury mixed with charm.

Check for prices & availability HERE.

Wherever you stay, you’ll really be using it as a jumping off point for all of your exploring around the city!

Find Your Best Thessaloniki Travel Deals Today- Book Now!

Thessaloniki has enough to see and do that you won’t be bored, but is compact enough to comfortably explore by foot over the course of a weekend.

For us, Thessaloniki was great as a Galentine’s weekend destination, since it was warmer than Milan and other parts of Europe in mid-February.

While I don’t usually travel for Valentine’s Day, it can be a fun excuse for a trip.

READ MORE: Visiting Verona – A Romantic Getaway for Valentine’s Day

And really, a weekend in Thessaloniki is a great trip to plan – especially last-minute – since there are so many cheap flight options from around Europe.

Do you travel for Valentine’s Day weekend? What makes an ideal weekend getaway for you? How do you decide which cities to visit when you travel to a new country?

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Scottsdale Food Guide: Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona

July 1, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 34 comments

Disclaimer: Some (but not all) of the experiences listed here were hosted in partnership with Experience Scottsdale. Food and drink opinions are of course very opinionated – and completely my own!

As I looked into the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale – and there are a ton – one question kept crossing my mind: Why is the food in Scottsdale, Arizona so good?

The answer that came to light over a week spent in town and snippets of conversation with servers, restaurateurs, and locals is actually quite simple.

If you’re a chef in the west and want to make a name for yourself, some of the big food cities – like Las Vegas, San Francisco, and Los Angeles – are very expensive and high-risk ventures. So what do you do?

Open a restaurant in Scottsdale!

To incubate your idea, tweak your dishes and concept, and build up an even stronger proposal for making the jump to a bigger city foodie scene.

And Scottsdale just happens to be THE DESTINATION for a lot of these restaurants, as talented chefs looking to make a name for themselves feed you excellent food along the way.

Of course, not all chefs are looking to leave.

The local food movement has also been taking hold in this area, with chefs using locally sourced produce from the nearly year-round growing seasons and showcasing Arizona ingredients.

Even Arizona locals in the area – who don’t live in Phoenix or Scottsdale already – know that if they are looking for a great meal, Old Town Scottsdale is the place to go.

And one of the first things I realized looking for the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale is that Old Town Scottsdale is bigger than you think.

It doesn’t cover all parts of the city (the lovely Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows where I stayed for part of my trip is a bit outside its borders) but most of the outstanding eating establishments with the best food in Scottsdale you’ll find within its confines.

My overall impression eating and drinking my way through Old Town Scottsdale is that is does basic, simple cuisine and upscale casual really well. (I had one fancy meal and honestly wasn’t wowed by it.)

There are also a shockingly large number of delicious bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

In walking distance of Old Town Scottsdale, you can drink your way through breweries, wine tasting rooms (including an urban wine trail!), a distillery, and multiple acclaimed cocktail spots.

Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale

Organized alphabetically in each section – one for restaurants and another for bars – my picks for the best restaurants and best bars in Old Town Scottsdale are not mutually exclusive.

Of course some of these Scottsdale foodie spots had delicious coffee or cocktails to go with their incredible bites, which I’ve noted below.

The places I’d seek out just for their beverages though – from coffee bars to cocktails bars – are listed in the next section (although some of those spots also serve food).

I did a ton of research, asked plenty of locals, and used my traveler sixth sense to seek out the best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale and eat as much as I could of the best food in Scottsdale during my visit.

READ MORE: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

And even then, not everywhere I ate wowed me enough to make it into this post.

You would not believe the amount of eating I did in a week – this is the short list Scottsdale Food Guide with the places that I am still dreaming about back at home!

Now for the most delicious Scottsdale bites I enjoyed over a week in town:

Citizen Public House

Citizen Public House picked up several new restaurant accolades when it opened in 2011, like being named a “New Restaurant Not to Miss” in Esquire magazine, with some good company in Charleston’s Husk and Chicago’s Girl & the Goat.

Not only is it cozy and lively on a random weeknight several years in, the welcoming vibe is backed up by the quality of the food and drink.

In addition to some creative craft cocktails with unusual ingredients like kiwifruit simple syrup and tobacco bitters, there are also half a dozen barrel-aged cocktails (and I don’t think I’ve ever seen more than one or two on a single menu before).

Foodwise there are upscale versions of traditional dishes, including interesting combinations like pork belly pastrami, amaro meatloaf, and the pan-seared scallops I enjoyed with a cola gastrique.

While all of the food dishes were excellent, it was one of the appetizers that stole the show for me: “The Original Chopped Salad,” a dish so famous it has its own Facebook page.

Originally crafted at the now shuttered Cowboy Ciao and known then as the “Stetson Chopped Salad,” this combination of pearl couscous, Asiago cheese, arugula, pepitas, dried currants, dried corn, smoked salmon, and a buttermilk dressing was shockingly good and quite memorable, with so many layers of flavor and textures combining to form a bite that made me swoon and feel as if I was eating the best salad I’ve had in my life. And I’m not even a salad person!

There’s a reason this chopped salad has a following. I’d go back to Citizen Public House anyway, but I’d *rush* to go back for this dish.

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Diego Pops

The tacos at this Mexican restaurant definitely hit the spot, although were not as memorable for me as the appetizers and drinks.

I’d come back in a heartbeat though for either of the appetizers I sampled.

First, they do a version of Grilled Street corn that is topped with the more common toppings of cotija cheese and lime, then pushed from good to an all out umami-bomb by the addition of crushed flamin’ hot cheetos, which provided just the right amount of crunch and MSG-addictiveness.

Of course, the corn was not to be outdone by what is possibly the signature dish – the Brussels sprout nachos.

I hated brussel sprouts as a kid and love them as an adult, and this version has nachos (yum), topped with brussel sprouts (I’m already sold), and then pushed over to top by a fried egg that makes this feel incredibly indulgent – even as you eat your veggies.

The incredible food spread was then washed down with some excellent cocktails.

In my case, the prickly pear margarita which was just the right amount of tart and sweet. Between the distinctive flavor and familiar bright pink hue, I felt transported back to my travels in Malta, where prickly pear grows on the side of the road with abandon.

There are also sno-cone margaritas (!!) that I hear are more sweet, and come in watermelon lime and mango habanero flavors.

READ MORE: Top 12 Reasons to Go To Malta

Farm & Craft | food + affection + community

Any place that serves breakfast until 3pm is my kind of place.

While all of the dishes sounds simple enough (and quite healthy), the ingredients are so fresh that it really delivers on flavor and you forget it’s supposed to be good for you.

I ordered the innocuous sounding breakfast sandwich with fried egg, avocado, cheddar, and chicken sausage on a flax whole wheat bun.

Anytime I read the words flax or whole wheat, I usually high-tail it in the opposite direction, but I didn’t even remember what was in the bun because the flavors were so buttery and unctuous as I slowly savored each bite.

I enjoyed it with the equally good house-made lavender lemonade, and there are plenty of other fruity concoctions as well as cocktails, wine, and beer.

FnB

While the accolades of this restaurant are too numerous to mention, the recent naming of FnB’s chef Charleen Badman as “2019 Best Chef – Southwest” by the James Beard Foundation is notable as she is the first Arizona chef to win in over a decade.

Known as the “veggie whisperer,” Badman delivers on the promise by highlighting some of the freshest produce from Arizona’s many growing seasons.

Yes, the menu is vegetable-forward but dishes with fish and meat are just as delicious.

Standouts from the vast spread I enjoyed on my recent visit included a citrus-cured salmon with buttermilk, cucumber, and flower petals and a simple dish of local fresh apricots with ricotta, almonds, and balsamic honey.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re having trouble getting a dinner reservation in the wake of the James Beard award win, head next door to FnBar, where you can also indulge in the full dinner menu from 5pm on.

Rehab Burger Therapy

The burgers at Rehab Burger Therapy have been named the best burger in Arizona many times over – a well-deserved accolade, by the way – but it is really the whole experience that made this a standout spot.

From the décor to amazingly friendly service from enthusiastic, passionate server Salyna to all of the amazing food combinations that make its way into every burger they serve.

In addition to the creative burger concoctions, you can also choose your burger size (small for me), bun type (I got the pretzel bun), side dish (I got sweet potato tots), and rehab sauce of choice (garlic sriracha aioli for me).

On Salyna’s recommendation, I ordered the Spicy Mac n’ Cheese burger that also was my favorite, and overflowing with the comfort of mac n’cheese while still delivering strong flavors from the sauce and burger itself.

As part of a food-curious group, I also got to sample several of the other burgers, with the poblano being my second-favorite for the intense flavor of the poblano pepper that was great paired with the beef.

In addition to our main burgers, our group also ordered the Elvis burger, which has been their best seller for 7 years, and combines some of the The King’s favorite flavors, with the burger coming on a chocolate chip banana bun with peanut butter, chocolate bacon, and caramelized bananas. Yes, it is a savory burger that also involves PB, but it’s not as weird as you might think.

Sweet Dee’s Bakeshop

Don’t get me wrong, the toasted marshmallow latte was divine, but this bakeshop is squarely in my food category for all of its amazing traditional baked goods and twists on some classics.

I was fortunate to visit the week of Sweet Dee’s first birthday celebration, and got to enjoy a host of birthday-themed treats, including mini cupcakes and the over-the-top birthday cake doughnut.

Yes, they took birthday cake THEN battered and fried it into a doughnut!

While I was busy indulging my sweet tooth, I heard about their savory doughnut.

Basically it is an eggs benedict in doughnut form! Inside the doughnut is a poached egg, Canadian bacon, and house hollandaise.

While I didn’t have enough of an appetite to justify ordering the savory doughnut too (although I did consider it!) between the incredibly baked items I did enjoy and the incredibly friendly staff, this spot is top of my foodie list for my next trip to Old Town Scottsdale.

The Mission Old Town

The Mission Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Photo by Rebecca of Rebecca and the World

They say that both food and service are important to a restaurant experience, but if you only get one, good service is the quality that gets you returning.

I’m happy to report that in the case of The Mission Old Town – like fellow restaurant The Fat Ox listed below – they delivered both excellent food and outstanding service.

It’s not often that when I go wandering in search of the ladies room, that there is someone who immediately spots me and walks me all the way to the door to ensure I find it.

It was the little touches that elevated my service experience at The Mission from great to exceptional.

In addition to the wonderful service throughout the meal, the food was delicious, which is the part that landed this spot on my list of best restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale.

As for the food the most memorable bites for me were the excellently-executed table-side guacamole and the grilled street corn with a tangy, spicy sauce that was addictive.

The drinks were also incredible, and The Mission treated our group to small tastes of several of their best ones.

The House Specialty called “The Missionary” was a perfect – and colorful – mix of their house margarita and red sangria. There was my full drink, the shockingly creamy avocado margarita, which I’ve never seen or had before and thoroughly enjoyed. Then at the end of the meal, a creamy dessert cocktail came along with churros and dipping sauce, which was a perfect end to a stellar Scottsdale food experience.

Zuzu Restaurant at Hotel Valley Ho

I don’t usually frequent restaurants at hotels other than where I’m staying, but there were a few good reasons to seek out Zuzu Restaurant anyway.

This spot wasn’t on my list for savory dishes, but I am so glad that the timing worked out to meet fellow travel blogger Alley for brunch as well as dessert at Zuzu.

I ordered what sounded like the most typical local breakfast dish, called planks and eggs, with sweet potato “planks,” pulled short ribs, a fried egg, cotija cheese, lime crema, and crispy fried tortilla strips.

To my surprise, the dish also came with a soft flour tortilla as a side too, which might have been the best flour tortilla I’ve *ever* had.

It was clearly made with love and had such great flavor even though it was basically plain bread.

But the original draw to this spot was the dessert that beyond lived up to its name – The “Show Stopper” Shake.

Even though I had seen pictures online before I arrived, this shake is a whole lot more than a milkshake and is even bigger in person than I expected.

The flavor combinations change monthly, and I was lucky enough to be there for a Hawaiian-themed shake shortly after my Hawaii travels. Sure, there was a milkshake, but mine was also topped with a pineapple upside down cake, passion fruit tart, and orange creamsicle – plus a side of chopped fruit, coconut macaroon, and orange gelatin slices.

Definitely order this giant and fun concoction with a friend . . . or several!

Show Stopper shake at Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Photo Credit: Alley of Travel Tribe Guides

Show Stopper shake at Zuzu Hotel Valley Ho Showstopper Shake Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Photo Credit: Alley of Travel Tribe Guides

While the service was sadly just mediocre, the food was so good that it was a fabulous final food experience to end my time in Scottsdale.

Best Bars in Old Town Scottsdale

The word “bar” can mean lots of things. This round-up shares my picks for the top bars in Old Town Scottsdale, from coffee bars to brewery bars to wine bars to cocktail bars.

So whatever your drinking preferences, there’s something for you below:

Cartel Coffee Lab

Cartel had the best coffee I enjoyed in my week in Old Town Scottsdale. They take their coffee quite seriously, and my cortado had rich coffee flavor and aroma with a super smooth milky topping that was great for refueling right in the heart of town.

While I was on my way to lunch when I popped in and was unable to linger, the space was inviting with long tables perfect for catching up with a friend or hunkering down to get some work done.

Goldwater Brewing Co.

This is my kind of family business.

For a craft brewery, there is a huge available selection of in-house brews to order at the bar. And if you’re indecisive (or just enjoy trying a lot of different beers) like me, you can order any 4 beers as a flight.

The iconic beer here is the Desert Rose cactus ale, made with prickly pear from local cacti.

While sold out as you can see on the menu sheet, our server Parker was kind enough to give us an impromptu tour of the operation and a sample of the next batch of Desert Rose, which while not quite ready yet, is already delicious.

Goldwater Brewing Company Scottsdale Food Guide - Best Restaurants in Old Town Scottsdale, Arizona — Impromptu brewery tour with Parker of Goldwater Brewing Company, Kay of Jetfarer, Jennifer of National Park Obsessed, Theresa of The Local Tourist, and Janet of Go! Learn Things

LDV Winery

While I visited all 4 winery tasting rooms that are on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, LDV (Lawrence Dunham Vineyards) Winery tasting room was my definite favorite.

And the only one that made my list of top bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

Like the other wine trail spots, LDV Winery has its actual vineyards a several hour drive away in the Wilcox area of Arizona, with a similar elevation to Argentina. Especially since was my first wine tasting stop in Old Town Scottsdale, I was fortunate to have Tasting Room Manager Sherylann as an excellent guide to their history and selections.

My top sips were some of the red wines – a 2013 Grenache (which I bought) and both the 2013 and 2014 Petite Syrah, even though the two vintages tasted a bit different from one another.

Another reason to be sure to stop in – delicious regular and infused local olive oils and vinegars that are available for sale, and also to taste!

Merkin Vineyards Old Town Scottsdale

I knew about the Dave Matthews and Donald Trump wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia, but I had no idea that Maynard James (MJ) Keenan – most famous as the lead singer for bands Tool and A Perfect Circle – was another celebrity winemaker.

Merkin Vineyards has only had a presence in Old Town Scottsdale since March of 2019, and unlike the four wineries on the Scottsdale Wine Trail, this spot is more of a wine bar than a tasting room.

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Charlottesville, Virginia

Apparently MJ Keenan only recently discovered that he is descended from Northern Italian winemakers, and is embracing that heritage as he grows mostly Italian (and Spanish and French) grape varietals.

As part of a hosted event, I was lucky enough to share sips with three fellow travel bloggers. So after a couple of rounds, we had basically tried most of the available selections!

My top sips were the bold red wines – including the Garnacha and Tempranillo – along with some of the blends.

There were also some really delicious platters of food, with simple ingredients packing huge flavor in true Italian style.

It is both for the wine and incredibly flavorful dishes available that Merkin Vineyards was one of my favorite bars in Old Town Scottsdale.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While Merkin Vineyards does not officially offer wine flights, you can create your own wine tasting if you go at less crowded times on weekdays before 5pm.

This wine bar in Old Town Scottsdale is also a family affair, with Maynard’s dad’s farm growing much of the produce for the simple and delectable bites available.

All enjoyed to one of Maynard’s eight personally curated music playlists for the venue – featuring, of course, lots of tracks from Tool.

Second Story

Located on the Second Story of a building in the heart of Old Town, this is one of the bars in Old Town Scottsdale that hits the spots at the end of the night.

I don’t usually order off-menu for my first cocktail at a new place, but I was feeling feisty and – as is the sign of a great bar – my relatively vague instructions led to a delicious ginger whiskey sour.

I liked the balance of spicy and smooth so much that I sipped especially slowly to make it last.

Second Story also has quite an elegant feel when you walk inside, which I wasn’t expecting.

The other part I did not realize until I went is that it is basically a whiskey- and bourbon-centric bar, with over 300 whiskeys on premises.

They also have a food menu, with full dinner options as well as happy hour bites.

One Place Outside of Old Town Scottsdale Worth the Trek

Trek is a bit of an exaggeration as this spot is a mere 2 miles from the waterfront in Old Town Scottsdale, and will take less than 10 minutes in a car and under $10 by ride share if you don’t have a vehicle of your own.

It’s not the only place I ate at outside of Old Town, but it’s the only one I’d go back to.

The Fat Ox

I was still feeling a bit hungry after one of the evening events for Bloghouse Scottsdale (I have a big appetite, what can I say?) and this restaurant was close to where I was staying at the Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows.

You can tell a lot about a restaurant based on how they greet a solo female diner, and at The Fat Ox it was done just the right way – business as usual.

The hosts at the stand were gracious and welcoming, and the whole restaurant was buzzing with lively conversation, so I happily strolled to one of the few empty spots at the bar.

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

After 3 years of living in Italy, I am always a bit skeptical of going to an Italian restaurant in the US, but I was pleasantly surprised at how good the food was.

I ordered the Malloreddus Lamb Verde, a seasonal fresh pasta dish with a perfect balance of flavors and textures between the lamb, olives, pecorino cheese, mint, and chopped almonds .

Even though the panna cotta was a little on the sweet side for me overall, the fruity foam and crunch with the garnish on top made for a delicious bite as well.

Bartender Brian provided excellent service and conversation (no, he didn’t know I was a travel blogger until the end of the meal) and he perfectly crafted the fun-named “Sage Against the Machine” cocktail for me, with tequila, sage-infused agave, and a lambrusco (Italian sparkling red wine) float that I enjoyed with my dishes.

Even if you’re staying in Old Town Scottsdale, which is a few miles away, it is definitely worth the trip to enjoy a meal here.

And be sure that whenever you plan your trip to Scottsdale, come hungry!

Looking to book a room in Scottsdale? Check out these great spots!

Bespoke Inn – A splurge & my favorite place I stayed in Old Town

Hyatt Place Scottsdale/Old Town – Best Value for Money & Central Location

Andaz Scottsdale Resort & Bungalows – Posh resort I enjoyed north of Old Town (and close to The Fat Ox restaurant!)

Are there any questions about the Scottsdale food scene that I haven’t answered yet? What spots on this Scottsdale Food Guide are your favorites? Any other recommendations of restaurants or bars I should try on my next visit? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Travel Hack: Extra Items You Can Carry On a Plane for FREE

January 24, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 64 comments

As I was standing in line to board my Ryan Air flight back home to Milan from a travel blogging conference in Stockholm two summers ago, I was the vision of chaos.

There was the cardigan and scarf draped over my purse, an umbrella dangling from my wrist, and the bag of food I was holding from the Östermalms Saluhall food hall.

In addition to my purse (‘personal item’ in airline lingo) and my wheeled luggage.

I looked just a little bit different from everyone else in line holding their 2 allowed items and no more.

As everyone looked on in wonder, the flight attendants didn’t bat an eyelash and I boarded with no trouble at all.

No, they weren’t just shirking their jobs, it’s actually the *official policy* of many airlines to let all sorts of additional items on board that don’t count toward your baggage limit.

For those of you who may not know, Ryan Air is a discount European carrier that like most cheap-o airlines, make you pay extra for pretty much everything, including advance seat assignments.

But even with many (although not all) discount carriers, there are plenty of things you can wear or carry outside of the strict measurement limits for luggage when you board.

Extra Stuff You’re Allowed to Carry On

No, really!!

Many airlines even have these items explicitly listed in their official policy if you know where to look on their website.

There are actually a ton of things you can just carry in your hands if you somehow ran out of space in your luggage.

TIP! There are links to some sample policies from around the world toward the bottom of this post.

First of all, don’t squeeze the last ounce of free space out of your baggage on your way *to* somewhere, you’ll need all the wiggle room you can get on the return trip.

Inevitably, even if I don’t buy much along the way, it always seems harder to get everything to fit properly in my luggage when packing it all up on the final night of a trip.

So these tips are really intended for when you have that last item or two you just can’t squeeze in but still want to take back with you.

Here are all of the items that you can wear, hold, or have clipped outside of the allowed luggage dimensions when you board:

Jacket

Even if you’re not cold, even if you’re heading into a tropical heatwave, you can still wear your jacket when you board to free up luggage space.

And there’ll probably even be space in the overhead bin or under your seat if you don’t want to wear it for the entire flight. Or just drape it over your lap – plane rides can get very chilly sometimes.

Clothing Layers

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Sep 19, 2017 at 10:03am PDT

Coming back from my recent trip to Nicaragua, right before I boarded I needed to smush my purse into my backpack so it was a single ‘personal item’ for boarding.

Since the backpack was pretty full already, I wore my cardigan and scarf and tied my fleece jacket around my waist. Instant space creator.

You might not be able to wear all your layers for your security screening, but you sure can wear them to board the plane.

Neck Pillow

Many wheeled bags have a strap you can clip your neck pillow to if you can’t fit it inside.

This is probably the accessory you’ve seen carried separate from luggage most often besides a jacket, and some people even wear it around their neck to board!

Umbrella

I can often wedge this at the bottom of my wheeled back in between the two sides of the handle, but if you’re really strapped for space, it’s not a problem to carry this item separately.

Just put it somewhere on the plane where you’ll remember to bring it with you when you leave.

Camera/Camera Bag

In a pinch, I’ve strapped my bulky camera bag for my ‘fancy camera’ to the outside of my wheeled bag because I just couldn’t get that zipper to close with it inside.

Which is totally fine, because this is also an item that is allowed to be separate from your outer luggage dimension limits.

Hat

When you see someone boarding a place wearing their cowboy hat or wide-brimmed straw hat from the beach, it might not just be a fashion statement.

Wearing it to board can save you precious luggage space if you’re struggling to zip that bag.

Duty Free Purchases

This must be part of some secret backroom deal between airports and airlines.

No matter how bulky or numerous your duty-free items, it’s totally fine to bring them onto the plane with you in addition to your other luggage.

And in some cases, if you purchase alcohol, you won’t even receive your duty-free bag until right as you board.

Merchandise purchased at airport

In many cases, any kind of merchandise purchased at the airport (and especially takeaway food that you’ll probably consume in-flight anyway) don’t count toward your luggage.

Of course, it helps to have this in some sort of obvious container or bag as you board.

TIP! Whether you have the space in your luggage or not, liquids over the 3mL are great items to purchase once you’re through security. On my last trip, both the 500mL water bottle and the 200mL sunscreen I purchased served me well in my travels!

Reading Material

Just hold your book in your hand. There is so much queuing involved with boarding an airplane between getting scanned and making it through the jetbridge, I’m usually holding a book or e-reader in my hand to keep me entertained anyway!

Infant Accessories

I don’t have children, but if you do, there are extra allowances for bringing on board baby supplies, even if the infant will be sitting in your lap the whole time.

These include a car seat, collapsible stroller, and a bag up to 5kg/11 lbs – or more! – with food and diapers (nappies) to cover whatever the baby might need during the flight.

Medical Devices

The interpretation here can be broad, but at a minimum include a cane or crutches, collapsible wheelchair, and any oxygen or dialysis devices you’re dependent on.

All free of charge.

Of course, the exact specifications vary by carrier, and you’ll definitely want to check the specific policy of any airline you’re planning to fly.

Some strict carriers aside (hi EasyJet!), most airlines won’t stop you from boarding while holding any of the above items with you, even if it’s not explicitly mentioned anywhere on their website.

Carry-On Baggage Policies from Around the World

Many policies explicitly will list most, or all of the items above. And some carriers, like Avianca (see below) even allow balloons!

Here are some specific policies from around the world:

North American carrier

Click here for the United Airlines policy
Scroll to bulleted list

South American carrier

Click here for the Avianca Airlines policy
Scroll to “What Can You Take?” then expand “Additional Items”

European carrier

Click here for the Air France policy
Scroll down to yellow border with “Additional Items You May Take on Board…”

Middle Eastern carrier

Click here for the Qatar Airways policy
Expand “Hand baggage allowance” & see box with “Carry more on board”

Asian carrier

Click here for the Malaysia Airlines policy
See #2 and #3

Even if there is no mention in the official boarding policy of the airline you’re flying, so long as it’s not a discount carrier, in all likelihood, no one will stop you with any 3-5 (or even ALL) of the knick knacks listed above whether you’re wearing or holding them or they’re clipped to the outside of your luggage like a neck pillow or camera bag.

I’ve flown dozens of airlines, and never once been stopped with any of the above accessories as I boarded!

Happy flying!!
Lana

Do you usually carry any of the above items outside of your luggage when you board a plane? Any time that you were prevented from bringing one of them on? Anything I missed in terms of carry-on luggage tips? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Milan to Lake Como Day Trip: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como, Italy

May 30, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

When I say the word “lake,” what do you imagine? A small, oval-shaped body of water where you could easily row to the other side in a boat? A modest-sized swimming hole for a quick dip as you hike in the woods?

Your imagination has probably conjured up something relatively tiny, but the lakes of northern Italy – including Lake Como – are anything but.

Instead of your typical circular or oval body of water, Lake Como, Italy is like an upside-down letter Y or wishbone shape, and extends north to south nearly 30 miles/50 kilometers!

This was one of the first of many things that made a deep impression on me when I visited, as one of my first Milan day trips.

Even if you can’t find Lake Como on a map of Italy, you’re likely to know a few things about it.

Like the fact that George Clooney lives there. Or that it is a posh weekend and summer destination for residents of Milan, since getting from Milan to Lake Como is so easy.

This means that in addition to being curious and making several trips on my own, Lake Como was also a popular destination for guests visiting me when I lived in Milan, and I’ve been there many times across several years. It’s one of the easiest and best day trips from Milan. And one day in Como is plenty of time to take in the highlights.

One of the easiest spots to land, and with plenty to see, is the town of Como, Italy at one of the southern tips of this wishbone-shaped lake. With great options for what to do in Lake Como for a day.

The lake itself is huge, which you’ll discover standing on its shores and staring out toward the horizon where the lake continues even past where you can see.

You could easily spend a week exploring its shores, but for most visitors, you’ll probably explore Lake Como in one day.’

Getting from Milan to Lake Como

There are a lot of transportation options for a Milan to Lake Como day trip.

I most often drove to get there, but that was only because I was already living in Milan with a car!

To experience Lake Como in a day, I’ve listed a few driving options, although for most visitors the easiest way to visit will be by train, which is also included below.

From Malpensa Airport (MXP) by Car

Most of my visitors when I lived in Milan, Italy were from the US.

Como is a convenient spot to visit straight from the main international airport, known as Malpensa or code MXP, since it is already partway from the city to Lake Como.

So to fight off jet lag and see something spectacular, one day in Lake Como is a great way to start a trip, especially for flights that land early in the morning.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! On your first day in a new location, spend a lot of time outside and walking, to help adjust to the new time zone.

However, taxi fares from Malpensa are set prices and quite expensive (around €100!) so unless you are already planning to rent a car at the airport or have a friend picking you up by car, I recommend taking the Malpensa Express train for a much more affordable price into the city.

Then you can either drive or take the train from the city another day for a Lake Como day trip.

From Milan by Car

If you’re planning to rent a car in the city to head somewhere else – like the overnight I did once to go hiking in Lugano, Switzerland – then driving to Lake Como for one day is a great idea.

It is a pretty straightforward path on the highway, and then there are plenty of parking garages when you enter town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Once you are getting close to the town of Como, follow the signs that say Como with a picture of a bulls-eye. The bulls-eye indicates that you are headed to the centro, or center of town.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Signage is equally good for locating a parking garage. Look for signs with a blue square with a white letter P inside for parcheggio, or parking. Usually each lot will indicate how many free spaces are available.

Also check out these tips for taking a road trip in Europe for some other helpful information for your journey by car.

If you do not already have plans for a car rental, it is so easy to arrive by train that even owning a car, that is how I traveled to Como for a day during many trips.

Milan to Lake Como Day Trip by Train

There are 3 main train stations in Milan – Cadorna, Centrale, and Garibaldi.

If you plan to do any day trips from Milan, I recommend staying close to one of them, and I find the neighborhoods by Cadorna and Centrale stations to be the nicest.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you are arriving on an international flight to Malpensa Airport, Cadorna and Centrale are also the main stations where you can arrive by the Malpensa Express train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Before boarding any train in Italy, be sure to VALIDATE YOUR TICKET before you board, otherwise you could be subject to a fine. Usually on the train platform will be a brightly colored box with a slot in the top for you to insert your ticket. You can find more Italy travel tips HERE.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, Milano Centrale, Milan’s Central Station, is the easiest itinerary. Usually there are several direct trains an hour that will get you to the Como San Giovanni train station at Lake Como in 35-45 minutes. You can check the schedule and prices on the TrenItalia website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Centrale to Como San Giovanni station will typically cost around €5 for the regional train and €12 for the Eurocity train.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Central Station?

Within a 10-minute walk is the exceptional Milano Dreams Hotel. Even closer is highly-rated 43 Station Hotel. For a pricier and very comfortable stay also very close by, I’ve enjoyed the Hilton Milan.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Central Station.

For a Milan to Lake Como day trip, if you’re staying on the other side of the city closer to the Milano Cadorna Station, it will likely be easier to get a direct train there (and just as fast as a longer transit to Centrale and then the shorter train ride from there).

Usually there is one direct train an hour that will get you to the Como Nord Lago train station right at Lake Como in around 1 hour, so check your train options in advance. You can check the schedule and prices on the Trenord website.

A one-way train ticket from Milano Cadorna to Como Nord Lago station will typically cost around €5.

Looking for a hotel close to Milan’s Cadorna Train Station?

Within a 7-minute walk are the outstanding Atellani Apartments. Slightly further is the La Cordata Accommodation. For a very centrally located and more upscale hotel, check out UNAHOTELS Cusani Milano.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels close to the Milan Cadorna Station.

Given the locations of the train stations in both Milan and Como, either train option above is a great, cheap, and quick way to spend the day in Lake Como.

Regardless of which train station you use for your day trip to Como, be sure to keep some key tips in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to book a direct train. In the “Duration” column, it will have a single number showing the time and no changes indicated.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The train station has plenty of machines for you to buy tickets, if you don’t want to commit to a specific train time in advance. There are several languages available, including English.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you purchase using a machine, not every machine will accept credit cards if yours does not have a pin. Have a debit card with a pin available as well for your train ticket purchase, if your credit card does not have a pin number.

Doing a Como Tour

If you’d rather avoid dealing with transportation logistics on your own, there are plenty of Como Day Trip tours you can arrange.

There are a few great Lake Como Day Trip options:

Day Trip to Lake Como and Bellagio, or

Lake Como and Bellagio Day Trip with Boat Cruise, or

Day Trip to Lake Como, Bellagio, and Varenna

For a very different view of the lake, check out this Helicopter Ride for an Aerial View of Lake Como.

There is also this Central Lake Como tour cruises to 3 towns including Bellagio and includes a visit to the gardens at Villa Carlotta.

What to Do in Lake Como for a Day

Here are the main Lake Como 1-day itinerary for your Milan to Lake Como day trip:

Lake Como

Whether you’re arriving by car or train, your drop-off point or parking spot will likely be quite close to the shore of Lake Como. And walking up to the edge of the lake is always the first thing I want to do when I get there!

There are beautiful views along the shore in both directions, and a lovely pathway for a stroll.

Boat Tour

During warm weather months, from about April to October, there are leisure boats lined up along the dock close to the Como Nord (northern) train station in Como.

With a high number of tourists, boats leave quite frequently and very affordable at around 5 Euros per person.

When you arrive at the dock, just ask how soon the next boat is leaving. It is about a 30-minute trip up and back along the adjacent section of lake, and the better boats will point out sites of interest along the way, including spots where famous movies were filmed.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Doing a basic boat tour is different from taking the fast or slow ferry to other towns on the lake, so if you want to just do a boat tour, this is just along the shore, not at the official ticket counter (see ‘Off the Beaten Path‘ below for more details on ferries to other towns).

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Cathedral

The main Cathedral of Como, or Duomo, is located right in the center of town and is a stunning example of Gothic architecture.

It is free to enter and a must-visit spot while you’re visiting. Spend as little or as much time as you like.

Porta Torre and Old City Walls

Arriving at Porta Torre, the medieval town entrance dating back nearly 1,000 years, involves walking through winding cobblestone streets away from the lake front.

Not only will you get a glimpse of the oldest parts of Como along the way, you’ll also get a great sense of this town’s lengthy history and long-standing structures.

Oldest House in Como

Speaking of old structures, be sure to stroll by what is supposedly the oldest house in Como, located above a shop at Via Natta, 1. You’ll definitely know it when you see it.

Como Silk Museum

Did you know that an overwhelming percentage of Europe’s silk production comes from Lake Como?

Ever since a Duke around the year 1400 decided to start growing mulberry trees and importing silkworms from Asia, Como has been a hub of silk production, which continues today.

This museum, located a bit beyond the Porta Torre (see above), chronicles silk’s history in the area and the various stages of production.

Shopping

I’m not always a huge shopper, but there are lots of wonderful things to get in town. There are your typical clothing chains, but also cute kitchen stores, shops with local food products, and jewelry makers. And of course, plenty of Como silk!

Off the Beaten Path on a Milan to Lake Como Day Trip

Como-Brunate Funicular

Lake Como is surrounded by hills and mountains, and while it’s definitely possible to hike up the steep incline on foot, most people opt for the funicular, which is like a steep tram.

There are some shops, sights, and restaurants up top, but most people make the trip for the lovely view of Lake Como.

There is a great viewing spot about a 20-minute relatively flat walk to the left when you exit at the Brunate station.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The funicular runs quite frequently, but it’s always a good idea to look at (or even take a picture) or the return schedule to time your return trip to Como.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The front of the lower section of the funicular is a giant window, and that’s where you’ll get the best views as you ascend and descend. Arrive early to be first in line to snag this spot!

Villa Olmo

There are many villas along Lake Como, one more beautiful than the next, and many with extensive landscaped gardens to behold.

The closest one to the town of Como is Villa Olmo, about a 20-minute walk from the center along the west side of the lakeshore (if you’re facing the lake, to the left). The outdoor areas are impressive with beautiful lake views, and the interior is a free museum open daily except Monday.

Ferries

There are many other towns along the lake, and it’s definitely doable to visit and explore one or more others during a single day, depending on how you want to spend your time.

The link above shows the schedule and fares for various destinations along the lake, or you can find it HERE. To purchase a ticket, arrive at the ticket booth on Lake Como around 20 minutes in advance of your departure.

The town of Bellagio is one of the most popular other towns for visiting, although be aware that it is approximately a 2-hour boat ride with the slow ferry and around 45-minutes one-way if you pay the surcharge for the fast ferry. And it will cost around €10-15 each direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you just want to get out on the water a bit and not necessarily see another town, the faster and more economical way is a tourist boat tour, see ‘Around Town‘ section above.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If Bellagio is the main town you’d like to visit on Lake Como, it is faster and cheaper to take a train from Milan to the town of Varenna, and then take a ferry across from there, skipping the town of Como entirely.

Looking to stay overnight in Como?

Check out centrally located, affordable B&B La Rondine or B&B Volta. Or for a posh hotel stay with views of Lake Como, Hotel Quarcino.

Click to check out reviews and compare prices for hotels in Como.

Where to Eat with One Day in Lake Como

Ristorante La Cucina di Elsa

This family-run restaurant is close to the waterfront, but just far enough away that it is mostly locals who you’ll find as your dining companions. Apparently there is another branch just across the border in Lugano, Switzerland, but I’ve only been to the Como one.

‘Elsa’s Kitchen’ has typical Italian dishes with a lot of fresh seafood, with dishes that are a bit elevated from down-home cooking, so worth lingering over every perfect bite.

Locanda Barbarossa

Set inside a vast stone building, the ambiance is wonderful along with the food.

Pizza is the most popular, and comes in dozens of varieties including several white pizzas, although the northern Italian risotto and meat specialties are equally delicious if you’re not in the mood for pizza.

Either way, it’s a great spot for a lingering lunch.

Gelateria Lariana

No Italian outing would be complete without gelato.

This gelateria is along the waterfront, but somehow seems to be frequented mostly by locals – it was actually a tip from a local that led me here in the first place.

There are a few spots to sit outside with your gelato, so grab your favorite flavors, and enjoy it along with the view.

READ MORE: Best Spots for Gelato in Italy

It won’t even take a single day here to begin to understand why Lake Como is an ideal location for a summer getaway, and how it has become the ‘it’ destination for so many.

I’ve visited lots of lakes across northern Italy, and with the dramatic cliffs and mountains right up to the water’s edge, Lake Como is still my favorite.

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

Looking for other Day Trips from Milan? Check out some of my favorites!

Dramatic views from the elevated city of Bergamo

Enjoying adorable Cremona, home of the Stradivarius violin

And while it would be a long day (and I recommend more time in each) it’s also possible to do a Day Trip from Milan to Florence, Venice, and Verona.

Have you been to Como? Any recommended spots that didn’t make my list? And do you have any other questions about how to spend your time on Lake Como? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!

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Bucket List Adventure: Volcano Boarding in Nicaragua

April 5, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists (as of December 2018). Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

“Lana?”

“Oh, hi dad.”

“Hi sweetie, I just wanted to call and make sure you were still alive. You know, because you said you were going to go volcano boarding in Nicaragua.”

“Yes, dad I’m fine.”

(That is pretty much our conversation verbatim after I got back. And my dad doesn’t even worry usually when I travel!)

Not only was I fine after my day volcano boarding in Nicaragua, this activity was one of the absolute highlights of my whole trip.

Yes, I knew I wanted to do this before I even went.

Yes, I knew that it was a possibly dangerous activity and to go you pretty much had to certify saying you had travel insurance before they’d sign you up. You know, just in case.

Yes, I was super excited to go anyway!

What is Volcano Boarding?

If you’ve never heard of volcano boarding, you may have all sorts of crazy images flowing through your mind right now.

First off, in order to board down the volcano, you have to reach the top. On Cerro Negro (black hill), where volcano boarding is in Nicaragua, it was about a 45-minute moderate hike to the summit. Then there was a bit of time to walk around, explore, and take photos before lining up to wait your turn to descend.

And of course anything you need at the top, including the board itself, was part of your pack as you climbed.

What goes up, must volcano board down. Maybe you’re picturing standing on a surfboard and headed down a volcano as the lava comes up behind you. Or someone flinging themselves face first like in the beloved winter sport known as skeleton. In reality though, volcano boarding in Nicaragua is somewhere between sledding and luge as you slide down the side of the volcano.

There is a rectangular board that you sit on to go down the side of the volcano feet-first. A rope handle comes up from the bottom of the board between your feet and a slippery surface mounted on part of the bottom of the board helps you glide over the gravelly side of the volcano.

After the 45-minute hike up, it’s about 2-3 minutes to volcano board down.

I know – who on earth thought up this crazy activity???

How did Volcano Boarding start anyway?

Volcano boarding overall basically started as an extreme form of snowboarding down an active volcano spewing lava back in 2002 in the Vanuatu islands. Around the same time, a mountain biker realized that he could achieve high speeds and set land records over gravel, and that the black volcanic gravel of Cerro Negro in Nicaragua was perfectly suited to the task.

A few speed records later, the mountain biker was in a full body cast and a whole bunch of people in Nicaragua were inspired to find a way down the side of this volcano. People used to carry mattresses or any other object they could think of to use as a surface for going down, but over time the object of choice has evolved into a wooden board with a built in handle and slippery formica bottom.

Unlike the Mount Yasur volcano in Vanuatu – which actively spews hot lava that has killed people – the Cerro Negro in Nicaragua is actively hot, but has not erupted since 1999, making it a draw for volcano boarding tourists ever since the sport’s inception. Standing at over 2,300 feet (700+ meters), it is also twice the height to travel down compared to Vanuatu, making for a longer trip volcano boarding down.

Although extreme sports enthusiasts will go volcano boarding anywhere they can, the only place in the world where it’s organized as a regular tourist activity is at Cerro Negro in Nicaragua. The tour runs pretty much every day, as long as there’s a minimum of two people to go (usually there are far more).

How to Volcano Board

Some people supposedly stand up on the board to try and snowboard down the side of the volcano (although I didn’t see any of the ~100 people there the day I went try this), but the most standard way to descend on the volcano board at Cerro Negro is to sit down, lean back and enjoy the ride.

The guide will demonstrate the proper position for descending – basically sit on the wooden bar and grab the rope – and then you can lean back to go faster or sit up to create more wind resistance that will slow you down. The heels of your feet are in the gravel on either side of the board and you push them downward as your brakes.

Everything you hiked up with is in a tote bag inside of your jumpsuit for safekeeping until you reach the bottom.

Simple enough, right?

What the Volcano Boarding Was Like

I had a blast! There was that rush of hiking to the top while taking in the beautiful views and then a bit of fear at the top taking the first look over the edge where volcano boarding takes place. Mine was actually in one of the first groups to the top, so at that point you were just gazing down the steep incline in anticipation, not actually seeing what it looked like as people did it yet.

As my heart raced in my chest and I felt the effects of the adrenaline coursing through my body, I tried to take deep breaths and mentally run through the different steps of the process as everyone lines up along the lanes spread a bit apart so boarders don’t collide. I wasn’t first in line, so I watched carefully the take off maneuver to pick up speed at the beginning and was mentally comparing how each person approached it.

I noticed the line of people dwindling ahead of me and got ready to perch myself on the board. The wooden bar is pretty little, so I took a second to adjust how I was sitting and perch my feet ready to take off. When the signal came that the coast was clear I had a moment to take one last breath before taking off.

At first, hurtling down the side of the volcano, my mind was racing. Noticing how it all felt, feeling the air rush by, making slight adjustments in my position to stay balanced.

Then my focus shifted to trying to go faster. I had lost some of the initial momentum getting caught up in the decently sized chunks of black volcanic gravel and shifted my body position to leaning far back and lifting my feet to minimize friction and pick up speed.

The second half of my run was even faster and I still mostly stayed balanced as I sped to the bottom and came to a slow stop and quickly jumped up and out of the way for the next person coming down the volcano.

It was such a rush to go volcano boarding, and the whole time it felt so surreal to be able to do such a cool activity. On an active volcano, no less!

Choosing a Volcano Boarding Tour

There are two main tour operators that will take you volcano boarding from the town of León, Nicaragua – Bigfoot Hostels and Quetzaltrekkers. Volcano boarding with either costs around US$30.

From the research I did in advance, there were a few key differences that led me to choose Quetzaltrekkers:

They let you volcano board twice!
They are a non-profit supporting local charities in Nicaragua.
Bigfoot tracks everyone’s speed down the volcano with a radar gun.

I didn’t want to feel the pressure to go faster than I thought was safe or found comfortable, or to be in an environment that focused on speed (and I definitely wanted to go twice). So between not wanting to go with Bigfoot Hostels for that reason and actively choosing to support local charities, Quetzaltrekkers was the right choice for me. If you go volcano boarding, choose the tour operator that works best for you.

Bigfoot Hostels and Quetzaltrekkers were definitely not the only tour providers. I saw plenty of signs advertising volcano boarding around the city of León, where most are based. However, for doing an extreme sport, I opt to go for a very experienced provider. It is my safety after all.

Who can go

There was a lot of diversity in the fairly large group the day I went. Many people were backpackers in their 20s or 30s, but there was also one family with two 8-12 year old children, a backpacker with his mother probably in her 50s, and several older couples who liked travel and adventure.

So basically, travel boarding is for nearly everyone!

What will be provided

Obviously this varies from tour operator to tour operator, so be sure to double-check that you have the correct information when you book volcano boarding. What is listed here is for the Quetzaltrekkers tour I went on.

The guide that will lead the way up the path to the top of Cerro Negro, explain a bit about the volcano range, and also demonstrate the proper technique and safety measures for volcano boarding down. My group was large so there was someone signaling at the top when it was time for the next person to descend and another guide partway down the volcano taking photos of everyone, which was later shared via their Facebook page.

In addition to a trained guide and a photo to make all your friends jealous, Quetzaltrekkers will provide for you:

a volcano board
a tote bag/backpack to hold any items you need on the way
1 large bottle of water
a jumpsuit
gloves
goggles
lunch afterward
a free t-shirt as a souvenir

What You Need to Bring Volcano Boarding

Honestly, you’re hiking up with a bit of extra weight from the supplies and the board itself, so there’s probably not much else you’ll want to bring with you.

The essentials:

A bandana (or t-shirt) to cover your nose and mouth as you go down. There is a ton of dust and gravel that gets kicked up that you want protection from.
Wear decent closed-toed shoes, since the shoes you wear are your brakes coming down.
Phone/Camera/GoPro or whatever device you want to use to record the experience.

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Is Volcano Boarding Safe?

I found volcano boarding in Nicaragua to be safer than it looks (or sounds). First, you control your own speed by your body position and braking with your feet, so your safety is essentially up to you. Which is basically what the tour disclaimer statements say, too.

Going down the side of the volcano, there are essentially multiple lanes down, which have been worn already and keep you on a path for the most part. You’re unlikely to veer or the path, and even more unlikely to collide with another boarder as you descend.

Between deliberately going slow or encountering friction on the way down, most people were not going terribly fast. The worst I saw was someone falling slightly sideways off the board, and then being able to immediately get back on and continue the rest of the way down. And the bottom of the volcano slowly levels off, so there is a natural arc that will slowly bring each volcano boarder to an eventual stop at the end of the run.

That said, for the occasional person who even begins to approach the top recorded speed of 97 km/hour (60 mph), there is definitely the possibility of more serious injury, which is not to be taken lightly.

But if you follow the safety guidelines, I would expect that volcano boarding is no more dangerous than other sports you’ve tried anywhere else.

What Wasn’t Scary

The volcano boarding itself. It was actually hard to go fast! Even with the bottom sanded smooth, there is quite a lot of friction between the board and the gravel. Plus your feet were in the gravel as well. Since you control your speed by sitting up to slow down (and can brake anytime you want with your feet) you won’t go any faster than you’re comfortable with.

Being on an active volcano. Toting a volcano board is actually one of the safest ways to hike an active volcano. If anything goes wrong, you are already hiking with the fastest way to get to the bottom of the volcano and away to safety – sliding down on the volcano board!

What Was Scary

How windy the hike was. Pretty much every account I’ve read of volcano boarding in Nicaragua mentions how windy it is. And nearly every video you watch of volcano boarding has the wind whistling in the background (mine included – see above).

When you get to the top and are traversing the ridge to get to the volcano boarding area, the giant volcano board you’re carrying often catches the wind like a sail and the gusts can be so strong you’re really digging your feet into the gravel with your leg muscles to not get blown away.

At this point, some people started to carry their boards vertically in their hands to not catch the wind – it really felt strong enough to blow you off the top of the volcano. Not to worry though, we all made it there safely.

Standing at the top looking over the edge. I didn’t start skiing until my late 20s and I still get a bit of fear in me when I glance over the edge of a steep ski slope. Standing at the top of the volcano boarding area looking down was the same sort of feeling for me. Then I realized I’d be sitting down and it all seemed way more approachable. Plus, it’s those butterflies inside that tell me I’m on an adventure =)

Why the Hike Alone Was Worth It

If someone had said, “hey, there’s a beautiful hike up an active volcano with lovely views,” I would have said “yes” in a heartbeat. The fact that this scenic hike just happens to be the way up to the volcano boarding area was a bonus for me.

There are plenty of volcanoes in a row to explore (this is on the volcano ‘Ring of Fire’ after all), and hiking up Cerro Negro you get a view of much of the nearby volcano range. In fact, some people who arrived with me and the Quetzaltrekkers group were beginning an extended trek and overnight stay in the area. The El Hoyo 2-day trek is on option to book along with your volcano boarding, or you can always opt just for the hike and overnight trip without volcano boarding if you wish.

The hike up Cerro Negro itself fell somewhere in easy to moderate difficulty. The only struggle for me besides the wind (see ‘What Was Scary’ above) was that it was not so comfortable hiking with the board between the backpack and your back. Plus, mine kept sliding off-balance and needing to be readjusted. (Although really, a small inconvenience for the fun of volcano boarding.)

And despite my visits to many volcanoes during my time in Nicaragua – including several other active ones – the hike up Cerro Negro was the only part of my volcano exploring in Nicaragua when I got to touch the hot sand and feel the warmth of the volcano coming up through the ground.

The initial hike up actually took a bit of time because the views were so incredible that we all kept stopping to take pictures and video. I would have done the hike even if there wasn’t the option to volcano board down, although that was definitely a great excuse to see this part of the volcano range.

Would I Go Again?

I already did! One of the reasons I chose to do the tour with Quetzaltrekkers was for the opportunity to do it all a second time that same day.

As far as I know, they are the only provider to offer that option, so if you’re thinking about going twice, be sure to book with them. Apparently my experience the day I went is similar to every day when the run the tour – most people say they will go a second time, and then almost no one does!

In my group of ~40 people, only 8 of us (6 men, plus me and 1 other woman) opted to go a second time. I think most people didn’t want to do the hike again to arrive at the top.

Since there were just a few of us going again, we were able to swap out our jumpsuits (mine was very large for my first run) and also to switch boards to one of the lesser damaged ones. I didn’t realize how mangled the board gets going down just once.

→ Because the boards all get damaged the first trip down the volcano, it turns out to be a lot harder to go fast on the second run!

I thought I was being clever to try and go moderately fast the first run and really let loose with my speed the second time once I got the hang of it, but I should have just thrown caution to the wind at the beginning when my board was fresh. If you do opt to go a second time, any experience you’ve gained will probably be outweighed by the degradation of the board you’re using. But it’s still fun.

The second trip overall is definitely quicker than the first round of volcano boarding, though. The hike actually takes less time since there is less picture-taking on the way. The slowest hikers in the group typically don’t opt to go up again. And there are much fewer people.

I was glad I went. And went again.

Would you ever go volcano boarding? Anything you’d still like to know after reading this post? What’s the craziest activity you’ve ever done in your travels? (Let me know, I might have to do it next.) Share away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Note: This post was not sponsored in any way. I just had a great time volcano boarding with Quetzaltrekkers and was happy to put my money toward a good cause and do my tour with them for the reasons above. My opinions, as always, are entirely my own.

Things You’d Never Expect on a Trip to Haiti

March 21, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 20 comments

**While Haiti was a lovely destination when I visited in February 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists (as of December 2018). Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

Since returning to the US from time living abroad a year ago, I’ve been to quite a few destinations in the Caribbean for vacation. I just didn’t expect Haiti to be one of them.

This was not my first visit to Haiti. Technically, anyway.

I did visit Labadee peninsula on Haiti’s northern coast for a day once, while on a Caribbean cruise with my family. But all I really saw that day was a beautiful beach.

This time I came to Haiti on a work trip over ten days, with about half the time spent in the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the other half to the north outside of the city.

I know Haiti does not top most people’s bucket list destinations, but I wanted to write about my experience anyway. For those of you who may never visit Haiti, it’s a bit of a glimpse into the culture and sights of this vibrant country. Or for the more adventurous readers out there, maybe you’ll consider taking a trip someday.

There’s only one way to know – read on!

Things You’d Never Guess to Expect on a Trip to Haiti

Finding travel information about Haiti was a bit of a challenge, as you might expect, with no Caribbean travel guide I perused even including it. First-hand accounts of people who had visited were few and far between. So other than a couple of friends-of-friends that I connected with, I was a bit of a blank slate going in.

I’m not exactly sure what I expected, but certainly there was plenty that I was surprised by.

Haitians take being presentable very seriously

I know enough French people to know that being oh-so-proper is typically French, I just didn’t realize how many French sensibilities had been internalized in Haiti. In my business meetings, men were always in long-sleeved dress shirts. Even when it was 32 degrees C/90 F outside and we were in rooms without air conditioning. Often there where blazers or suit jackets worn by both men and women. Plus, as you drive around you’ll see no shortage of shoe shining happening on the side of the road.

Speaking French only gets you so far in Haiti

I prepared to speak French. I don’t speak French particularly well, but with my Spanish and Italian language skills I understand a fair amount of both written and spoken French. Outside of business meetings though, everyone speaks Kreyol.

The main mode of transportation is the “tap tap”

I’ve seen collective taxis from the sherut service in Israel to the collectivos you’ll find in Latin American countries. What I’ve never seen before? Trucks that only know to stop when you bang the side of the vehicle – the “tap tap” sound that is also the name of the mode of transport.

People get their cars washed on the side of the road

Driving around and during my limited wanderings on foot during the day, I saw plenty of people getting pop-up carwashes on the side of the road, especially in Port-au-Prince. Usually there were several people offering car washes lined up on the shady side of the street (it is tropical and hot there, after all) and no shortage of people waiting in line for their turn.

Churches are beautiful

Although many of Haiti’s churches sustained damage in the 2010 earthquake, the ones still standing that I visited were absolutely lovely. For a moment it felt like being a tourist in any church anywhere else.

Bougainvillea at every turn

I saw a bit of bougainvillea peeking out over a wall and thought about how lovely it was. After seeing bougainvillea for the 10^th time, I realized just how ever-present this flowering vine is all around Haiti, in bright shades of pink, purple, and orange.

There are so many Dominicans

Okay, sure, so both Haiti and the Dominican Republic share the island of Hispaniola. However I wasn’t expecting to encounter many Dominicans, although I met quite a few and got in a good amount of Spanish conversation during my trip.

Street food vendors have very fresh ingredients

Markets are central to Haitian commerce, as I can attest to after sitting through many a traffic jam driving through a town on market day. Even the vendors walking around with a basket on their head are carting around the food of the day. When I heard about the spicy Haitian peanut butter called mamba, I expected that it would come slathered on some square white bread out of a package and was instead delighted to have incredibly fresh boat-shaped mini loaves of bread, sliced and spread with the mamba to order, and served with a banana for a bit extra.

Armed guards at every hotel and restaurant

I actually didn’t even consciously notice this at first. I used to live in Israel and have been back often to visit, and they take their security pretty seriously there. Israel aside though, it is quite unusual to have armed guards posted at the door everywhere you go.

A parking spot can be anywhere

This is another thing I didn’t even take note of! Reading restaurant reviews (yes, I did, you know how I roll) I picked up on the fact that most people commented either that an establishment had plenty of parking or not enough. On the street, there are few and often no marked parking spots so the Haitians do the one thing I am all-too-familiar with from my time living in Italy – they jump the curb and park half on the sidewalk and half in the street.

The toilet situation was not as bad as I expected

I packed lots of tissue packs for my purse, wet wipes, and hand sanitizer, to be prepared for any bathroom situation that might arise. While I used all of these things at some point, in general I did not have nearly as many issues as I planned for, even at restaurants frequented mostly by locals. In fact, I used far more tissues as toilet paper in Naples, Italy than I ever did in Haiti.

Mountains. Stunningly beautiful mountains.

You may have heard of the book [easyazon_link identifier=”0812980557″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Mountains Beyond Mountains[/easyazon_link] about Dr. Paul Farmer, but that doesn’t even begin to describe how many lush green mountains you’ll encounter in Haiti. Every time you think you’ve reached the end of a range or are too close to the sea, another mountain pops into view.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Feb 23, 2018 at 6:00am PST

Tourist attractions

You know something is a tourist attraction when you’re in a foreign country and the first person who approaches you to give a tour speaks to you in English. This is what happened to me when I arrived at Fort Jacques outside of Port-au-Prince, and it was just like colonial forts I’ve visited elsewhere in the Caribbean. Although I didn’t have time to see it all, there are plenty of similar attractions throughout the country to explore.

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Vibrant art is everywhere

From mosaics to street art to paintings for sale, Haitians are all about their art. You’ll also see sculptures, wood carvings, and designs in metal without even seeking them out. I wish I had more time to explore the art scene during my time, it’s all absolutely lovely.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bf0l3unHNuO/

Latin Dance nights

Nope, I’m not confused about which blog post I’m writing, I went to a fabulous Latin Dance night during my time in Port-au-Prince, dancing salsa, bachata, merengue, and copa. The most unusual part – and I’ve gone Latin dancing in many places – was that almost none of the salsa music was Spanish! Instead it was salsa versions of popular tunes across a wide range of genres, from “Love Potion No. 9” to “Redemption Song” to “Wrecking Ball.”

Really nice restaurants

Port-au-Prince has some great dining destinations, and I was fortunate to explore many of them during my stay. I enjoyed delicious escargot at Brasserie Quartier Latin, some of the best goat of my life at La Plantation, and Middle Eastern delights like kibbeh at Magdoos along with a glass of excellent Viognier.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Feb 24, 2018 at 5:55am PST

A modernized airport

I spent an inordinate amount of time at my hotel the night before my departure being sure to print out hard copies of my boarding passes for my flight back to the US. And then I arrived at the airport in the morning to find that it’s a very automated check-in procedure with scanning machines just like in any modern city I’ve visited. With some very serious airport security. Just know that anyone who comes to help you with your luggage or check-in is really there for a tip.

Should You Visit?

As I traveled to Haiti for work, I didn’t intend to write a post about going as a tourist – but you might want to visit as one!

There will be plenty of natural beauty and friendly people to appreciate if you do go.

The travel warnings out there are legitimately scary and fear-inducing – and sadly exist for a reason – so if you do decide to visit Haiti, there are some key guidelines to follow to do it safely.

What You’ll Need

A Trustworthy Driver or Tour. It is not recommended for visitors to transport themselves anywhere. I’m normally the type of traveler who dives into public transport, however even taxis aren’t recommended as they can be part of crime targeting foreigners. All of my transport was either with the driver from work or the hotel shuttle. Find a driver you can trust or go on an organized trip.

→ The only company I’ve seen doing organized tours of Haiti is G Adventures. While I have never traveled with them, other travel bloggers have, and they recommend them as being a responsible tourism provider offering quality trips. You can learn more about their Haiti trips HERE.

→ I didn’t know about this company at the time of my visit, but thanks to a recent Essence magazine article, I found out about the Haitian Nomad, which does many types of day tours around Haiti. Get more information about possible tours HERE.

Mental preparation for airport chaos. This was the biggest thing I was told in advance of flying to Port-au-Prince, and you will need to keep your wits about you in the airport before you even find your trusty driver! There will be lots of people swooping in to help and expecting tips before you even get to the person who will usher you through your trip.

Lots of immunizations and health precautions. Haiti has both malaria and zika, plus has a fair number of communicable diseases you can catch, including from the water and food. You’ll definitely want a whole host of immunizations before you go as well as to be taking many precautions while in country. I was lucky to not have any health issues, although I also came prepared and used my heavy-duty bug spray liberally.

An openness to adventure. Haiti is definitely a destination I’d recommend for the more seasoned traveler, who is flexible and open to the unknown and adventure. For most visitors, the local culture will be quite different from what is typical at home, and having an open mind will be key to enjoying a visit.

Limitations on Your Visit

You can’t drink the water. I also avoided fresh salads that might have been washed in water and drinks with ice, except at higher-end restaurants.

You can’t walk on your own at night. Even if your hotel is a 5-minute stroll by foot. Even if you will walk fast. Even if it’s just around the corner. It’s just not safe.

Walking on your own during the day is fine, but might get uncomfortable. When I was in Port-au-Prince walking around during the day, I was on my own. I was the only white person that I saw on the street and was very obviously and immediately identified as a foreigner. I encountered people begging for money with every step. Someone tried to swindle me for gas money by saying, “Don’t you remember me? I’m the security guard from the restaurant you ate at on Monday.” (He wasn’t.) And there are signs of poverty everywhere you look and of people who are out on the streets all day that you’re probably not accustomed to (like a woman peeing on the sidewalk crouched next to a truck).

There are very long transit times to drive between places. Don’t just look at how close things are on a map of Haiti, and assume you’ll be able to get there quickly. Most “highways” in Haiti only have a single lane in each direction and often questionable road conditions. And that’s even before taking into account the traffic. I encountered traffic at rush hour, traffic on market days, traffic from animals crossing the road, and the worst traffic delay of the trip when there were student protests blocking the road and a 40-minute trip instead took 2 hours.

Benefits of a Trip to Haiti

Natural beauty. The mountains are stunning. My day hiking was one of my favorites from the trip. The beaches are idyllic, with the same clear turquoise water you’ll see across the Caribbean, and far fewer crowds. You could quite happily park yourself at a beach resort for a week and be thrilled.

Historical sights. I got to visit Fort Jacques and Fort Alexandre outside of Port-au-Prince, and only wish that I had more time to explore in other parts of the country. Although I was geographically close to other spots, the driving time did not allow for a visit to the Citadelle or Sans-Souci Palace or Fort des Oliviers, all of which look incredible. Read a recent tourist’s account of visiting Haiti, including these notable sights, HERE.

Amazingly flavorful, spicy food and local specialties. I had delicious dishes in Haiti that I haven’t seen anywhere else in the Caribbean. There was the spicy peanut butter called mamba that would come spread on fresh bread, the dish known as accra made from a grated root vegetable called malanga that’s fried into patties, and the djon djon mushroom from the north that’s used to flavor rice or chicken.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Mar 1, 2018 at 4:50am PST

I even got to savor the juice of local cachiman (different apparently from the custard apple the internet pulls up) that you probably won’t be able to sample anywhere else. I only ordered this because I picked the one thing whose name I didn’t recognize on the juice list, and it turned out to be delicious – like a fabulously light and creamy (almost) coconut milk.

It’s wayyy off-the-beaten-track for tourism. No one I encountered was in Haiti for vacation. Which may be why you want to go!

TIP! Yes, Haiti is a lovely country, but there is also a lot to be wary of in order to stay safe. I would only recommend a visit to Haiti for the seasoned traveler prone to being over-cautious and not taking any unnecessary risks.

Top Reasons To Visit Malta

It’s Affordable

Even though Malta has become popular as a cruise ship port and with other European tourists, it is still quite affordable. You can get a pretty good tasting menu at a restaurant for around €30 or less, which is always a great marker for me of how much things cost. Street food is dirt cheap.

It’s even affordable to get there, with many discount flights arriving from all over Europe. Plus, there are plenty of reasonable accommodation options for your stay.

Save up to 30% on your hotel on your next upcoming trip!!

Cute Fishing Villages

Yes, this is just as picturesque as you’re imagining! Traditional fishing villages have remained from ancient times and can be spotted by their traditionally painted boats. You’ll see some of the luzzu with a painted eye on each side due to the Phoenician custom to ward off evil and protect fishermen at sea.

Forts to Explore

The islands of Malta, once part of the British Empire and now part of the Commonwealth, have held strategic importance in the Mediterranean for millenia. So it’s not surprising that it is a country with plenty of fortifications you can still visit today dotting its coastline, from massive forts to fortified lookout towers.

It’s even been sometimes known as ‘Fortress Island’ due to the number of forts and its safe, natural harbors for ships.

Maltese Food

You know I’d go pretty much anywhere if I heard good things about the food! As an island nation that changed hands many times in history, Maltese cuisine includes Spanish, French, Italian, and other Mediterranean influences.

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Rabbit is considered to be the national dish and another local favorite is pastizzi, a palm-sized flaky pastry typically filled with cheese or a pea mixture. And the desserts will make you swoon – my favorite was imqaret, an Arabic-inspired pastry filled with a date spread.

Coastline Dotted with Caves and Pools

The rocky coast of Malta lends itself to caves that have been carved out by crashing waves, or indentations in the rock that form natural pools.

These are worth the effort to seek out as they are often not as crowded as the beaches and are beautiful places to explore and swim.

Ancient Stone Cities

Part of Malta’s heavy fortifications mean that there are also walled, stone cities throughout. Most famous are the coastal capital Valletta and Mdina in the center, which served as Malta’s capital through medieval times.

The results have stood for centuries and are beautiful to visit today.

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

Wine Culture & Visiting Wineries

Yes, Malta has wine! Delicious wine that you’re unlikely to have tasted if you’ve never been. I visited two wineries on my trip and had great tours and tastings at both.

Even without going to a winery, you’ll be able to sample a variety of Maltese wines by the glass, half-bottle, carafe, and bottle at your meals each day. While familiar grapes are grown in Malta, there are also some delicious indigenous grapes like Ghirgentina (a white) and Gellewza (for red wine), both delicious varietals blended or on their own.

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Beaches

The archipelago of Malta is composed of islands, so there are plenty of beaches to enjoy nearby wherever you decide to stay. Since the landscape is inclined toward creating natural harbors, all of the beaches I visited had stunning and dramatic views of the Maltese coastline.

The swimming was lovely too, of course.

Impressive Archaeological Sites

From the 6,000 year old prehistoric burial site known as the Hypogeum to ancient temples and catacombs, archaeological sites are located all over Malta, and provide an interesting window into this region’s past.

St. Paul's Catacombs in Rabat — St. Paul’s Catacombs in Rabat

If you like history or are fascinated by ancient cultures and traditions, there are plenty of spots to explore all over Malta.

Sunsets

There have been some places I’ve seen in my travels where the sunset is gorgeous and colorful nearly every night. And Malta is one of those places.

Wherever you are on the island, know when the sun will be going down so you can plan to be outside and watch the show. Malta had some of my favorite sunsets of the whole year!

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2018

Sunset at St. Julian's Bay — Sunset at St. Julian’s Bay

Outdoor Activities

The landscape of Malta is both dramatic and beautiful, and there are many way to take advantage of the great outdoors. There are interior hiking trails and also rocky coastal walks that link different beaches.

Malta is also known for one of my favorite sports, rock climbing, and has incredible limestone to climb on both Malta and Gozo. There are plenty of other outdoor adventure opportunities like cycling and diving as well.

Boats, Boats, Boats!

I love seeing boats and traveling by boat, and being on Malta with its many harbors provides plenty of chances to do both. There is a functional ferry to get between Sliema and the capital Valletta, as well as ferries and tours departing from many main spots around Malta, Gozo, and Comino. Even if boat travel is not your thing, plenty of boats will be docked and provide beautiful views along Malta’s coast.

Top Tips for When You Go

Transportation

The main thing you’ll want to know about getting around Malta is that there is lots of traffic! Traditional rush hours are the worst, but there always seem to be a lot of vehicles on the road and often bus delays.

If you decide on taking public transit (like I did), it is easy to purchase your bus pass from the public transit stand next to the Costa Coffee and by the exit from the airport – either from a person or the machine.

There is an Explore Card that is just for the bus and an ExplorePlus Card that also includes a round-trip ticket on the Valletta ferry and either a day on a hop-on hop-off bus around the island or a boat to the Maltese island of Comino. More details and prices are HERE.

TIP! The two downsides for me of riding the bus were the delays that made it hard for transferring bus lines and also when rush hour buses from Sliema to Valletta were so crowded they did not stop to let additional passengers on.

If you don’t love walking as much as I do (or are not as patient) you’ll probably want to rent a car for your time in Malta.

TIP! Be aware that if you’d like to take the car to one of the other islands, ferry space for a car can be quite limited and you’ll want to arrange this in advance or arrive very early to queue.

In either case, when you first arrive, a taxi is likely your easiest option to arrive at your accommodation, and there are set prices for each destination. My taxi trip from the aiport to Sliema (across the water from Valletta) was €20.

Traveling Solo

Malta is a great destination for traveling solo, especially since pretty much everyone speaks English, as a former British colony and now part of the Commonwealth. I was there for 5 nights on my own and had an easy time navigating and taking advantage of the different sights and activities around Malta, including getting a reservation for 1 at many of the restaurants. Malta is also very affordable, so even when you’re not splitting the cost of a room, it doesn’t break the bank to make the trip.

READ MORE: Top Reasons to Savor Solo Travel

Eating and Drinking

For whatever reason, tasting menus are plentiful around Malta, which was wonderful for me as a solo traveler who likes to try as many dishes as possible when I travel!

TIP! A lot of restaurants have a small capacity, so be sure to reserve ahead of time, even if it’s just earlier in the day for that same evening.

TIP! Making a reservation is necessary, even as a solo traveler!

While you might not be able to pick out the small archipelago of Malta on a map (you should go look!) there is so much see, do, and enjoy on the various islands. Now, go plan that trip!

Happy travels!
Lana

Have you been to Malta? What were the highlights for you? What types of activities do you look for most in your travels?

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Practical Tips: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

April 11, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 22 comments

Most people want to eat well on the road, but exactly how to find the best restaurants when you travel can be a tricky endeavor. Most travel destinations are inherently unfamiliar, and restaurants may not operate the way things do “back home,” wherever that is.

Fortunately there are quite a few strategies I’ve picked up in my travels over the years. Not anything is perfectly foolproof, but there are many way to maximize the chances you will be eating fabulous food when you travel.

What to Do

There are plenty of things you can actively do, both before and during a trip, to steer yourself toward delicious restaurants wherever you’ll be visiting. If eating well is a priority for you when you travel, here are a few things to do to ensure you’re eating your best!

Before You Go

Preparation goes a long way when it come to eating well on the road. Here are some specific ways I find great restaurant options in advance:

Research restaurant options ahead of time

Whether your preference is to flip through a physical guidebook or read blog posts online, take the time to research what restaurants are serving great food for you to check out. This is also a great time to keep an eye out for local specialties that are mentioned so you can do some additional searching for the best spots to sample them. It’s also important to plot restaurants on a map, so you know what other sights and activities are nearby.

TIP! Do enough research that you have at least one option in the different areas of the city or town you’ll visit.

TIP! If there are several recommended restaurants close to one another, when I am there in person I will walk by all of the options, read the menus, peek inside, and then decide where to go.

TIP! Sometimes there are great options far out of the city center, which may not be feasible if you have time constraints, so figure out in advance whether you need other closer restaurant options or will make the trek.

Read online restaurant reviews

This seems basic, but not all online reviews are created equal. In recent years, I have found that Google reviews tend to be relatively accurate, with many locals usually contributing, and there is the added convenience of having reviews in other languages automatically being translated into yours. Plus, if you search Google.com for “best restaurants in Venice,” you can then filter by rating, seeing only the results that are rated 4.0+ or 4.5+ out of 5 possible stars.

I tend to use it less for popular places, but if you are headed to a more off-the-beaten path destination, TripAdvisor is a great site to use. And especially for destinations that are not typically popular with tourists, it may be the only resource at your disposal. I found restaurant review information to be very limited on my recent work trip to Haiti, and

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Do targeted online searches

This is one of the best ways I’ve found to identify great restaurants to check out when I visit a new place. Instead of sticking to lists with blanket restaurant recommendations, I look for something specific in that place:

“<city/country name> foodie”
“<city/country name> best local dishes”
“Best Brunch in Sydney”
“Best Coffee in Detroit”
“Best White Rose Dumplings in Hoi An”
“Best Cardamom Buns in Stockholm”

TIP! Also do targeted searches in the local language if it’s not English. It’s easy to use an online dictionary to translate so instead of looking for “Florentine steak in Florence” you’re finding the Italian results by looking for “bistecca alla fiorentina Firenze.” (This is how I found my favorite place in Florence to get this local specialty!)

Ask locals or frequent visitors

Even if you don’t think you have any connection to a place you’re traveling, you might be surprised. While I didn’t know any locals in Barcelona, Spain or Port-au-Prince, Haiti, a friend-of-a-friend was a frequent Barcelona visitor with great recommendations and I was steered in the right direction by my friend’s aunt who visits Haiti often to do non-profit work. In both cases, I had no idea I had a connection – until I asked.

Reserve some restaurants in advance

If there is a place you’ll definitely want to go, it may be worth it (or necessary!) to book your meal in advance. Certain countries rely on reservations more than others and it is also helpful for any popular, high-end restaurants you may be considering, like something from the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants or the most popular Michelin-starred restaurants in a major city.

TIP! Be flexible with what time you’re willing to reserve and consider lunch as an option to increase your chances of obtaining a hard-to-get reservation.

During Your Trip

Sure, preparation is great, but it’s nothing compared to actually being at a destination. There are also plenty of things you can do once you arrive to find the best restaurants and eat well:

Ask at your accommodation

Whether you’re staying at a hotel or an AirBNB, either the concierge or your host probably has great information about the local dining options. In both cases, if there’s something specific you’re looking for (think trendy, or authentic, or a particular cuisine), they can probably help. When in Verona, Italy, I had Osteria da Ugo recommended to me at my hotel when I was looking for local cuisine and it became my go-to restaurant there for return visits.

Ask a local for recommendations

This doesn’t need to be a formal process, but every local you encounter – from asking for directions to taking a taxi ride – is a potential source of great local intel about the best restaurants. I got some great restaurant pointers from someone I met admiring a mural in San Ignacio, Belize.

TIP! Be sure not to just ask for a blanket restaurant recommendation, because you may just have the local suggest the fanciest tourist spot in town they think will be good for a tourist. Instead, be specific with your request. If you want somewhere local, ask where the taxi drivers hang out or locals go.

Keep your eyes open as you stroll

You may already be on the path that will take you to the best food of your trip. Keep an eye out for long winding lines of locals like you’ll see at popular spots like Luini Panzerotti in Milan, Italy, or an appetizing item from a street vendor, like my favorite panelle (fried pancakes made with chick pea flour) in Palermo, Sicily or an amazing local buffet I sampled in Colombo, Sri Lanka.

TIP! Even if it’s not mealtime or you’ve already eaten, keep an eye out to see where locals are gravitating or if you see a cute spot you want to mark on a map to return to for a meal later.

Try out restaurants with a menu you can’t understand

Be adventurous and don’t let a restaurant dissuade you even if there’s no English menu in sight. I had some of my best European meals at restaurants in Mainz, Germany Vienna, Austria and Liechtenstein that all only had German menus but were otherwise inviting. Usually there was a server who could help me to figure things out.

TIP! When in doubt, try dishes or drinks you don’t know the name for. If you see something that looks appetizing, pointing still works for communicating that to a server. Or that time in Bruges, Belgium I picked my beer based on its cool glass, and it turns out I like how Kwak tastes as well!

Follow Your Instincts

No matter how much research you’ve done or how good the online reviews say a restaurant will be, ultimately you need to trust your instincts. On a day trip to Orvieto, Italy from Rome, I had identified a few restaurants as possible lunch options. However as I walked past each in turn during my morning exploring and peeked at their menus, I was not particularly inspired. Another restaurant along the way looked cute and seemed to have special local dishes I hadn’t seen on any other menus, so I went there instead of the places on my list and had an incredible meal!

What to Avoid

While there are plenty of things to seek out, there are also quite a view things that I try to avoid when I travel so I can also avoid having a disappointing restaurant experience. There’s always a limited number of meals you’ll get to experience wherever you’re visiting a destination– and I like to make them the best meals I can!

Things that will make me look for another place to eat:

A “Tourist Menu” or big signboard with multiple menu translations

In all likelihood, I can get a foreigners’ version of a local dish back at home. When I’m on the road, I’m looking to taste the authentic food of a city or country as one of the ways I learn about the destination, not getting something that’s been altered to fit tourists’ tastes.

Being right next to major tourist attractions

Any restaurant that is immediately adjacent to a major tourist attraction has no incentive to produce good food. It will have customers looking for a restaurant out of convenience regardless. So even if I am trying to find a convenient meal, I will walk at least a block or two away for what are likely better and more reasonably priced dining options. This strategy paid large dividends in Berat, Albania:

Hearing lots of English and not the local language

While I wouldn’t expect customers anywhere to be completely comprised of locals, hearing an overwhelming amount of English being spoken somewhere (if it’s not the local language) may mean that a restaurant is catering to foreigners and not locals. Any good restaurant will still attract locals even if there are a lot of tourists who eat there as well.

Greeters posted at the street offering you menus and inviting you in

Maybe that’s how it happens in the movies, but in real life, the best restaurants are always busy and don’t need to work so hard to entice people in. I often see this in my travels along pedestrian streets where all the restaurants are virtually indistinguishable and can only attract business by paying someone to stand outside and usher in customers. A better meal is likely waiting at a restaurant that does not need to do this.

Unsanitary appearance

If something looks off when you first approach a location, take that as a sign that the restaurant does not take great care with its food either. If I see somewhere that is excessively dirty or has visible bugs or animal droppings, I don’t stick around to find out what the food is like. Even if I’ve already sat down.

A restaurant that is not that busy

Certainly there are exceptions to this one – if you are eating earlier or later than typical meal time, for example – but in general if a restaurant is pretty deserted, there is a reason for that. Again, it depends on the context, but even if a spot got great reviews and is on my list, if I walk up and it doesn’t look popular, I am likely to go elsewhere.

Of course, none of these strategies is completely effective, but by doing research in advance and keeping an eye out as I visit a new place, the chances are much greater that I will be finding the best restaurants and eating well on my trip.

What do you look for when picking a restaurant in your travels? Any other things you seek out or avoid? Share your best tips in the ‘Comments’ below!

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How to Spend a Foodie Weekend in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

August 7, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Philadelphia is steeped in history and there are so many historical sights (Liberty Bell, anyone?) to enjoy when you go. If you’re only there for a weekend, it may be hard to fit everything into your schedule that you’d like to do.

For someone like me who’s been to Philadelphia countless times though – from a road trip with my grandparents when I was little to visiting my sister and cousins who went to university there – the typical tourist trail was not the enticement. Honestly, I had coined my recent trip as a “foodie weekend in Philadelphia” because the principal inspiration for the visit was to check out the local restaurant scene.

Even for someone who likes food as much as I do, eating *all* day long is pretty impossible, so my friend and I had a short list of places to explore in between meals. Between my frequent visits and her having lived there for 6 years, this was really some of the last few things neither of us had done before.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjAeeE3Hkt8/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Although you may be so inspired you check these spots out on your first visit! It depends on what interests you.

And yeah, we ate really well. The “Foodie Weekend in Philadelphia” was a success!

Check out all the spots we visited below:

Things to See and Do

Barnes Foundation

I honestly had never heard of this spot before planning this trip, but it is one of the most unique art museums I’ve ever visited, along with Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which I also loved. The Barnes Foundation art is displayed just as it was when its patron was alive, in room after room with whimsical designs and interspersed with antique utilitarian objects with artistic beauty.

And the collection is filled with more Renaissance masterpieces than you may have ever seen in one location before. The museum used to be in Philadelphia’s suburbs, a subject of controversy when it was moved, but is now easily accessible on the city’s museum row.

TIP! This is a pricey visit, but not only did I think it was completely worth it, you can also get discounts by becoming a Barnes Foundation member or bundling admission with other Philadelphia attractions with either the Philadelphia Pass or the Philadelphia City Pass.

Elfreth’s Alley

Did you know that Philadelphia is home to the oldest, continuously inhabited residential street in America? Despite its historical roots, and my many previous visits to Philly, I actually learned about this spot from Instagram! I probably would have made it here sooner if Instagram had existed during my previous visits to the city, but was so glad to explore this block of houses this time around.

TIP! Various events happen throughout the year and guided tours are available Friday to Sunday and on Thursdays during summer. Options are listed HERE.

Italian Market

An outdoor market covering many blocks, the stands are also interspersed with brick-and-mortar shops selling Italian goodies. Stop by the Italian Market Visitor Center for a map and some helpful guidance as to which spots to check out and come hungry so you can eat your way through. And pick up some goodies to take home with you.

TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Philadelphia Magic Gardens (see below).

TIP! It was accidental that I stumbled upon the annual Italian Market Festival the one weekend I happened to be in town, but it was filled with vendors and music and all sorts of entertainment, including the absolutely insane Grease Pole Climbing competition:

Magic Gardens

Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens has only been open to the public since 2008, so this was actually my first visit to the city since it opened. Artist Isaiah Zagar had been beautifying this section of the South Street neighborhood since the 1960s, turning an eclectic combination of objects like tiles and glass bottles into a giant outdoor art installation with winding passageways and stairs linking different sections.

It is quite the experience to stroll through it all, this is definitely one of those places you need to see for yourself!

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TIP! There are timed tickets that are sold beginning a month ahead of time. I visited on a Sunday in May and was only able to get tickets for about an hour after I waited in line, so if you are on a tight schedule or it is peak tourist season, I’d recommend buying tickets in advance.

TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Italian Market (see above).

Mural Mile

There are beautiful murals all over Philadelphia as part of this revitalization project. If you go to the website linked above, you can download an easy-to-navigate map showing the location of the different artworks. I did not follow the trail, but if you are strolling the city and keeping your eyes open, you’re likely to spot quite a few of these to appreciate as I did.

Where to Eat and Drink

Coffee

Elixr Coffee Roasters

This coffee spot is very fancy about its beans and blends, and although its only been around since 2010, has racked up national accolades for its coffee roasting, barista skills, and cold brew coffee. The blend I sampled was good although not my favorite, but it was a solid sip to go with the definite hipster vibe at the Elixr Center City location, one of three outposts in the city.

La Colombe

This is a Philadelphia chain that is popping up in several American cities, but with good reason – the coffee here is delicious! There are 5 locations across Philadelphia (I visited the one in Dilworth Plaza) and it served my favorite coffee of my visit. There are great espresso-based coffee drinks that are not too acidic, so just the way I like it.

Breakfast/Brunch/Lunch

Dim Sum & Noodle

Chinese food is a must on any foodie weekend in Philadelphia, and this is one of the few highly-rated spots outside of Chinatown, and very close to the Barnes Foundation (see above), which is how I ended up here. Although the space is basic and it’s located on a strip mall stretch, there were some very delicious bites.

For dim sum, there are plenty of options, and if you’re indecisive like I can be, they also offer a dim sum sampler. And you know they’re serious about their food when the waitress patiently explains which dipping sauce goes with which dim sum item, which appealed to the sensibility I developed living in Italy – that there is one best way that food is intended to be consumed for maximum enjoyment.

TIP! All that said, I’ve enjoyed even better dim sum in Philly’s Chinatown, and would only seek out this spot if you’ll be in the area anyway.

Federal Donuts

This spot has fun flavor combinations iced like your typical donut, but what the staff recommended to me was the freshly fried original style dipped into a choice of 3 toppings: cookies and cream, cinnamon brown sugar, and strawberry lavender. It was so good to have the piping hot, yeasty, freshly fried donut that I would probably order this one again on any return visit. I’ve also heard great things about their wings, but I visited earlier in the morning and they weren’t serving them yet.

TIP! Go at or after 11am to sample their fried chicken wings with your donuts.

Green Eggs Caf é

Benedicts here range from more traditional versions with crab cakes or smoked salmon to a short rib benedict, root vegetable benedict, and chicken-and-waffles benedict option. Even more elaborate are the flavored french toasts like pecan pie, salted caramel banana, or the ever-tempting cookie dough stuffed french toast. This wasn’t blow-my-mind amazing, but the food is very good, and it is worth going for the variety and unusual combinations you’ve probably never seen on another brunch menu anywhere else!

TIP! Expect a wait, although the earlier you go after they open, the faster you’ll get seated.

Dinner

Vernick Food and Drink

The food here is both beautiful and delicious and is such a great value for the haute cuisine quality of the dishes coming out of the kitchen, and was a memorable first meal of our foodie weekend in Philadelphia. The signature Amish chicken (or half-chicken) is fantastic, and was a highlight of the evening – and this is from someone who doesn’t usually order chicken out at a restaurant!

Besides the one big dish, my friend and I just divided some small plates, which were really exceptional bites and beautifully plated. The cocktails were well-balanced and delicious, and there was a very good selection of wines by the glass. I thought it would be an older, stuffier crowd, but it turned out to be a mix that included a lot of young professionals and very friendly, approachable, and helpful wait staff to guide us along the way. They definitely earned their many accolades, including a 2017 James Beard award for the chef.

How to Reserve

Option 1: By phone, 90 days in advance

Option 2: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time

Option 3: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant at any point

→ I made plans less than 60 days in advance, so after not finding good options online, I called and was able to get a Friday night reservation at 7:30pm around 45 days ahead of time.

Zahav

One of the first high-end dining destinations featuring Israeli cuisine, this restaurant was THE REASON for my Philadelphia foodie weekend. Zahav has made it to Eater’s list of the “38 Essential Restaurants in America” for all four years the list has been compiled, which is probably a footnote compared to some of its other accolades. Dishes are available a la carte or with the Taste of Zahav offering small plates, salads, and a large fish or meat or vegetable dish from the coals for $48 per person.

But at just a little more pricewise, what you really want to do while you’re here is enjoy the $56 Chef’s tasting with the Chef Solomonov’s signature pomegranate-glazed lamb shoulder, one of my best bites of recent memory. Even the rice has detailed touches, and it was all so perfect together. You definitely want to eat here on a foodie weekend in Philadelphia – or any trip to the city, really!

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jun 6, 2018 at 10:18am PDT

TIP! I recommend snagging a reservation on the earlier side if you can, otherwise trying your luck in person on the day, as the most popular dishes (the lamb shoulder!) will sell out nightly around 7:15pm – or even earlier – since so many people order it.

TIP! I’ve done plenty of wine tasting in Israel, and while Zahav’s wine list boasts excellent Israeli options, I found the Israeli wines to be a bit over-priced and the lesser-known Lebanese Bekaa Valley selections to be much better value for a delicious bottle.

How to Reserve

Option 1: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time

Option 2: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant to likely be added to a wait list

Option 3: Be a walk-in on the evening you’d like to dine.

→ You can put your name down on the walk-in list around 4:30pm, even though the restaurant does not open until 5pm. One option is to stick around and eat right when they open at 5. The other option (which I took advantage of) is to put your name down, go do other things around town, and come back when most of the seats turn over between 7:00-7:30pm. Since it’s just a running wait list all night, be sure to let the host or hostess know your plans and give them another heads up when you return. My friend and I arrived back a few minutes after 7pm and got seats overlooking the open kitchen within 5 minutes.

TIP! Between 4:40 and 7:00pm, I stopped by Elfreth’s Alley (see above) and then Sassasfras Bar (see below). Another nearby option to enjoy yourself while you wait for a later dinner time is the even closer, historical City Tavern that still brews old time beer recipes from the time of Founding Fathers, so if you’re more of a beer fan (or just curious like I will be when I return to Zahav to eat again!) it’s another convenient option.

Dessert

Capogiro Gelato

I visited in summertime, and Capogiro was definitely recommended to me most often in terms of ice cream or gelato places around Philadelphia. Although it was not quite as good as my Favorite Gelato Places in Italy, Capogiro serves a delicious gelato made in the traditional Italian style and was some of the best I’ve had outside of Europe.

TIP! Some flavors were better than others (the pistachio was great!) so I recommend trying a few before deciding what flavor combination to order.

Drinks

The Franklin Bar

The Franklin Mortgage and Investment Company was a front for America’s largest alcohol bootlegging operation during Prohibition, and the space operates these days as a speakeasy. Travel + Leisure even mentions it in their article about Philadelphia being a foodie destination. There’s now an “Upstairs Bar” that is tiki-themed, which is where most people head, although the cocktails there were a bit hit or miss.

The real fun is at the speakeasy downstairs, with pretty interesting drink combinations and the dark, windowless vibe you’d expect from a speakeasy.

TIP! There is one bouncer for both levels, who will point you to the Tiki Bar unless you know to specifically ask about the speakeasy.

TIP! The wait doesn’t tend to be terribly long, and the bouncer can give you a pretty accurate idea of how long to expect.

Sassafras Bar

Close to Zahav (see ‘Dinner’ section above), this was a good place to spend time before dinner, and is a bar worth seeking out in its own right. There are innovative cocktails that change seasonally and the bartenders are very accommodating if you want to order a drink off-menu. It’s a pretty laid back vibe for a bar with great cocktails, with sports showing on the many TVs during my visit.

Where to Stay

AirBNB

You may find that an AirBNB is not as great a deal as you’ll find in other cities, especially if you want to stay near the center of Philadelphia. There are limited spots available, and your options will be priced accordingly. Look early for the best prices, and this can be a way to get more of a local perspective on the city.

If you’ve never tried AirBNB before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

Booking.com

This is my go-to website for finding great deals, and there is often a generous cancellation policy with bookings. You can sort options by ratings or price and get a sense of what is available on your dates. Search Booking.com Now

Have you ever planned a trip for the food? What are your favorite foodie cities? Any other destinations I should check out on my next foodie weekend in Philadelphia?

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Travel Stories: Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam
Travel Stories: Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

August 15, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 6 comments

The sun is starting to set over Ha Long Bay, one of the most picturesque spots of coastal Vietnam, with floating houses and local boat traffic intermingled with dramatic rock formations jutting out of the bay.

I’ve lifted my oar out of the water, and have paused for a moment, listening to the rhythm of the water lapping next to the kayak.

It should be one of the most peaceful moments of the trip, enjoying golden hour out on the bay. But instead, a deep panic is tightening its grip.

How It All Began

“Just perfect,” I had thought, as I made the booking in person the evening before. I like to rock climb when I travel, even though I don’t always travel with people who do. Luckily I was able to convince my travel buddy in Vietnam to come along for the full day of adventure – a morning of rock climbing followed by an afternoon kayaking around Ha Long Bay. For me, the perfect vacation itinerary.

The day started off typically enough. We boarded a boat with our guides and a large group, then split off based on which outdoor adventure came first. There were several activities available, and everyone basically mixed and matched different half-day components to enjoy.

The morning was picture-perfect as a group of us were dropped on a white sand beach overlooking the turquoise water, with rock formations towering overhead.

The surroundings were absolutely breathtaking, and the hours flew by meeting fellow travelers and scaling the limestone. Even now, that morning in Ha Long Bay was some of the best outdoor climbing I’ve ever done in my travels.

At mid-day the various groups returned to the boat for a communal lunch and some swimming in between the two halves of the day.

Setting Off Kayaking in Ha Long Bay

The afternoon of kayaking in Ha Long Bay involved a different mix of people than the first half of the day, and there were 7 kayaks full of people that set off.

Of course, what was a minor footnote at the time became critically important later in the afternoon. The rock climbing guide from the morning was not feeling well, and couldn’t go out with the afternoon climbing group. So the tour operator did the logical thing and had the ill staff member stay on the boat, and the original kayaking guide went with the climbing group instead.

Which meant that our kayaking group would be without a guide.

But it was simple enough: “Just keep turning to the left as you kayak, and you’ll get back to the boat.”

This made sense to all of us, so we grabbed kayaks and oars and set off into the sunshine.

The first few hours of kayaking in Ha Long Bay were glorious. It involved leisurely jutting back and forth ahead of one another as we took turns stopping off at random beaches on the many islands dotting Ha Long Bay, weaving in and out of the rock formations along the way.

Honestly, there was no clear left with how irregular it all was, but we were all making what was generally a counter-clockwise loop around the area.

And Then…

We were supposed to be back at the boat by 5pm to reconvene with the other afternoon groups and head back into town. So around 4:30pm, when there was no end or break in the rock formation in sight, what earlier had been a fairly spread out swath of kayaks started to cluster closer together to figure out where we were and how much farther there was left to go to find our way back.

At 4:45pm, with no left turn still available, we all started to simple paddle harder, assuming that we had been a little too leisurely earlier. And that if we just went a bit faster, we would shortly find the boat.

By 5pm, and the island’s edge extending far into the distance, I think we all realized that we were lost. And in trouble.

We didn’t know where we were.
We didn’t know where the boat was.
We didn’t see anyone else in sight besides our group of kayaks.
We didn’t know exactly how we arrived to the spot we were currently.
We didn’t know if it was closer to try and retrace our path or keep going forward.
We didn’t know if the boat was looking for us. Or waiting for us, even.

The only thing we did know, was that we had to stick together, and that we’d make the situation even more dangerous by splitting up as night was about to fall.

We also realized at some point around this time that we were only 6 of the 7 kayaks that had gone out, and were just hoping the other kayak had somehow made its way back to the boat, and wasn’t even more lost than we were – and alone!

The consensus was to continue on and hope that we came across the boat, or even someone (anyone!) who might be able to help

With each stroke of the paddle, the situation seemed more and more hopeless.

We didn’t know where we were. No one had a phone. And no one had much of a plan other than to keep moving.

At the beginning of what felt like a possibly dangerous situation, I was trying to stay calm and keep a clear head. With each passing minute though, the calm was being replaced by progressively more and more dire panic.

All of the worst case scenarios started to surface . . . We could be lost for days . . . How would anyone find us? . . . What if the weather turned bad?

We had minimal fresh water left and no food.

And my arms were feeling exhausted.

The several hours of morning rock climbing and the escalating pace of our paddling was weighing my arms down with each stroke. Somehow the adrenaline of the situation was carrying me forward, but it was starting to feel like my arms could not continue at this pace for all that much longer.

After what felt like an eternity of Herculean paddling effort – and was probably more likely a half hour or so – finally the horizon changed when a large freighter boat faintly came into sight in the fading light of the day.

Hope

Frantically we all started paddling toward the boat while also trying to dramatically wave our arms and oars to get the attention of someone on board. Luckily it was a pretty large vessel that was moving relatively slowly, so our paddling efforts allowed us to approach closer even as the boat continued to move, and finally get someone on the ship to notice us.

Of course, being well out of the touristy part of Ha Long Bay at this point, no one on board spoke any English (and no one in our group spoke Vietnamese).

The only thing that made what came next possible was that someone on another kayak had a waterproof digital camera, and I’ve never been so grateful for a piece of technology in my life.

He had taken a picture with the side of the boat in it earlier in the day. Which just so happened to also have the ship’s markings – with the name and phone number of the tour company emblazoned in bright yellow paint on the dark brown background. And thank goodness he had the clarity to think of this and pull it up!

Despite no common words or language, the boat crew fortunately could figure out that we were looking for the boat in the photo and to call them. And that calling the phone number might lead to someone who spoke Vietnamese and could help sort out what all of us were doing this far out on the water, with night falling rapidly.

The next few minutes were a blur, with my usual focus clouded by the all-encompassing anticipation of maybe, just maybe, being able to get back to our boat.

There were enough hand motions happening to indicate that this boat found our other boat by phone, and even that alone was a source of great relief. Even more amazing in that moment we somehow were able to figure out that our tour boat was still waiting on us.

And by a great stroke of luck, the giant freighter boat (that hadn’t even been headed that way!) was willing to take us back to our boat. Which otherwise would have been a very long paddle – probably lasting the approximately 4 hours it had taken us to reach this spot.

Savoring One of My Luckiest Travel Moments Ever

The freighter being so high off the water, there was no real way for us to board, but they tossed us a rope. With the panic subsiding, clear thought seemed to take over as we all methodically tied our kayaks to one another, and then to the sturdy-looking rope they had tossed to us off the back of the boat.

Secure and never more relieved, we flashed each other giant smiles as the freighter started to move.

All of the kayaks were bunched together, so as the boat picked up speed, we actually started to bang horizontally into one another. Which was entirely unexpected.

On another day, we might have considered this to be just another part of the adventure. But in this moment, still emotionally charged, the collisions presented what felt like a lethal danger. The last thing we needed was for one of the kayaks to get damaged or ropes to snap off, given the afternoon we’d had.

So we each pushed the end of our oars horizontally into the side of the adjacent kayak to create a consistent bit of space as we bounced in all directions in the wake of the boat rushing forward. Hitting the water, but no longer hitting each other.

Once we got our configuration stabilized, it all started to sink in. How close we had been to being lost and stranded. In the dark. Without anything to eat or drink. And along with those emotions, also reveling in the sheer joy that comes with relief of that magnitude after a crisis. Especially with the beautiful surroundings of Ha Long Bay at sunset rushing by.

One of the most serious terrors I’ve experienced first-hand transformed into being overtaken by a sense of deep, meditative calm. Which then morphed into joy and exhilaration as my adrenaline response faded and I could be again fully present in the moment. Feeling the breeze of being dragged along, the fun of bouncing on the water, and the absolute humility and gratitude at the mysterious ways of the universe that led to our improbable rescue.

Although this wasn’t my most recent time getting rescued by a boat after being stranded, this was definitely one of the most dangerous and terrifying situations I’ve encountered in all of my travels – even though it all worked out in the end. (Including that 7th kayak not with us, who had never gotten lost, and made it back to the boat on time.)

Had things gone even just a bit differently, I am not exaggerating when I say that I might not be here to share this story.

Thinking Back On It Now

Even with all the chaos and panic, there was so very much I was grateful for that day:

We were 6 kayaks lost together.
Someone had a waterproof camera and had taken a picture of the side of the boat with the phone number.
That the camera still had battery charge to pull up the photo.
That we even found another boat to flag down.
That the freighter stopped for us.
And was willing to try and figure out what was going on.
And call.
Then was willing to go off course and tow us along.
That the original boat waited for us, even before they had heard from us about where we were.
That we were able to make it safely back into port.
Especially since unbeknownst to us at the time, tourist boats on day trips are not allowed to return to the bay after sunset.

Which led to us – and everyone else out on a tour that day – ducking down as we re-entered the bay after sunset. I would have happily done whatever crazy thing was being requested to ensure our safe return to dry land, and fortunately we made it back without being stopped by the Ha Long Bay harbor patrol.

I could have bent down to kiss the ground, I was so elated to finally step off the boat after such a long ordeal out on the water.

I couldn’t tell you any of their names, but I made some friends for life in that shared life-threatening afternoon.

There is this indescribable bonding that comes with shared calamity – especially while traveling. After a much-needed shower to restore a sense of normalcy and wash away the drama of the day, we came back together to relive it all, sharing a meal together at a local spot in town.

And of course back on land and with a WiFi connection at the guesthouse, we were finally able to pull up a map of where we had been.

It turns out that there was an inlet about 15-20 minutes into kayaking that was meant to be the left turn that would lead back to the boat. Once we missed that turn, it probably would have taken days of kayaking in Ha Long Bay to propel ourselves around the giant island that kept going and going and going.

It was so lucky that we encountered that other boat. By the time the freighter picked us up, we were only a small fraction of the way around the giant mass. Although of course we had no way of knowing that at the time.

I’m not sure if it was there when I took this trip back in 2012, but now the FAQ on the tour outfitter website warns that “Even with a compass, it can be extremely difficult to navigate among islands. For this reason, all of our kayak trips are guided.”

Lessons Learned

So, would I do it all again? Is there anything that I would do differently next time?

Honestly, I would still go kayaking in Ha Long Bay. But even if it was with a guide (like this trip was meant to be!) I would definitely be more prepared. Because really, anything can happen.

TIP! If you’re doing any water activities (or even just think you might), get a waterproof bag you can take with you. this clear one that comes in many color options but is clear enough to see the contents.

TIP! Have a phone with a local SIM card with credit or an international plan to be able to call for help if you need to.

TIP! Always have the phone number of any tour company you use in your travels.

TIP! Use a map program to save any group meeting point to your cell phone.

TIP! Always have a backup battery for technology. For cell phones, I use and like READ MORE: 16 Travel Essentials for Every Kind of Trip

TIP! Check in at the halfway point before you need to make your way back to your tour group, to be sure there is enough time to return.

TIP! Trust your instincts! If a situation starts to feel dangerous, treat it that way and act accordingly. I talk about trusting that intuition in my post on Solo Travel, but really, it’s an important tip to keep in mind whenever you are on the road, alone or not.

Nothing is foolproof when you travel – and the unexpected can always happen – but a bit of preparedness will go a long way in keeping you safe.

Have you ever been lost in your travels? How did it turn out? Any things you would do differently the next time around? Any other tips I missed?

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