**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists(as of December 2018). Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**
I honestly didn’t know a ton about Nicaragua before my recent 9-day trip besides there being warm weather and beaches, the perfect combination for a winter getaway.
Nicaragua wowed me on so many other levels, though, with lots of outdoor adventures and some of the nicest people you’ll ever meet.
More than other destinations I’ve visited recently (including others in Central America, like Belize), friends and colleagues warned me to “Stay safe!” and “Watch out for Sandinistas!”
Like with much of the travel I’ve done though, the reality on the ground is quite different from those pre-conceived notions. Of course, use common sense like you would even in your home city – don’t wander aimlessly with all your luggage or intoxicated late at night – but beyond that your safety is not something to actively worry about.
As I was told numerous times during my trip, Nicaragua is the safest country in Central America.
Which was great, because it meant that I could relax, let my guard down (mostly), and soak up all of the culture and beautiful natural surroundings.
Here are the highlights of my time in Nicaragua, the top 13 reasons that you should head there next:
Go outside of rainy season (which runs from May until November) and there is no shortage of great places to watch the sun set. You’ll get a show of lovely pink and orange hues every night, with the color changes lasting a half hour or more. It’s great to watch sunset from wherever you are – whether over the water on Nicaragua’s lakes and beaches or atop one of the great viewpoints in the cities.
The main cities of Nicaragua were founded by Spanish explorers in the early 1500s, and it shows. Spanish influence is apparent in the red tile roofs, interior courtyards, and covered walkways you’ll see all around. Buildings also have incredible architectural details in the woodwork and designs that have been preserved throughout the centuries. You’ll get an even better sense of it all with the many towers or roofs to climb for sweeping views of surrounding city and almost always, volcanoes in the distance.
Yup, Nicaragua lies right on a fault line between tectonic plates along the Pacific Ocean’s ‘Ring of Fire’ and there are loads of volcanoes to explore and ways to enjoy them. During my visit I hiked Volcán Maderas, peered at the bubbling lava of Volcán Masaya at night, and boarded down Cerro Negro – all standout activities from my time there! There are also plenty of other hiking and camping opportunities at Nicaragua’s volcanoes, including the opportunity to watch sunrise or sunset (or both!) from the slopes of a volcano.
The water of Nicaragua’s many lakes doesn’t always look inviting, but fortunately there are plenty of natural springs for some pristine swimming. Close to the city of Granada, I spent a leisurely day at the Laguna de Apoyo, a crater lake at the site of an extinct volcano where you can swim and relax as waves lap the shores. On the island of Ometepe, there is the Ojo de Agua, a spring that is fed by an underground river from a nearby volcano. Although these are not hot springs, the water is said to possess the same healing properties.
#5 | Bright Colors
Granada in particular rivals Burano Island in Venice, Italy in terms of the bright and varied colors you’ll see street after street, block after block. It’s something I’ve noticed throughout my Central American travels, but especially in Nicaragua from iconic bright yellow churches to hues of turquoise and magenta on residential homes and local businesses.
#6 | Wildlife
There are plenty of nature preserves in Nicaragua where you can see large mammals like jaguars and cougars, but you’re also likely to encounter quite a bit of wildlife just walking around. Some of my sightings were on hikes in nature, but my best monkey encounter was along a paved road. In addition to the monkeys, I also spotted many cows and horses and donkeys, bluebirds and parrots, and an armadillo.
Nicaraguans have a pretty dramatic history, and this is reflected in the wide variety of scenes you’ll see depicted in various murals, mostly in the cities. There was a mix of narrative scenes and political statements, all in bright colors to catch your eye walking around. For me, it was a great way to understand a bit more about the Nicaraguan people and mindset.
#8 | People
Nicaraguans are so nice and helpful to tourists, even if you don’t speak any Spanish. I had wonderful encounters with locals myself and also heard many stories from fellow travelers like one who ran out of gas on a motorcycle in a rural area and managed with hand gestures to get directions to the local spot to buy emergency fuel by the liter. Especially as a solo traveler, I appreciated the warm welcome I received everywhere I visited.
#9 | Delicious Food & Drink
Food in Nicaragua consists of some Latin American staples like rice and beans and plantains, mixed in with some specialties specific to Nicaragua. Cuajada is a locally-made cheese you’ll find as part of most typical breakfasts, either served fresh or pan-fried like you would do with Greek haloumi cheese. Quesillos are probably the most common street food, and is like a vertical version of a Salvadorean pupusa with a thicker cheese and liquidy crema along with pickled onions inside a tortilla. And if you can find it, there is a special flavor to the pelibuey type of goat that thrives in hot climates. All this can be washed down from the ubiquitous batidos (fruit shakes) or an ice-cold Toña or Victoria, the local beer options.
#10 | It’s Cheap!
Many people commented to me that Nicaragua is like what Costa Rica was ten years ago, and I can’t disagree. It’s just starting to see an uptick in tourism, which will likely lead to higher prices down the road, but for now Nicaragua is eminently affordable. Staying at a top-tier hotel was around US $100 per night, while I stayed in comfortable accommodations with hot showers and a pool for a mere $30/night in the cities. And food is quite inexpensive, with most meals costing between $1 and $3 at local comedores, and not much more than $10-15 at upscale spots.
#11 | Coffee
There is a rich flavor to Nicaraguan coffee, grown in local volcanic soil. You’ll find good coffee everywhere, including espresso and espresso-based drinks like the Spanish cortado or cortadito, with just a touch of warm milk. Several coffee plantations are open to visitors, including tours of the property and demonstrations of the coffee-making process. Even if you’re not a coffee lover like I am, it’s a wonderful window into local production, with more land area in Nicaragua devoted to growing coffee than any other crop.
With long stretches of both Caribbean and Pacific coastline, there is a beach for everyone in Nicaragua. From surfing meccas to protected enclaves to plenty of islands, isletas, and cayes, you can find the right size wave to match your picture of paradise. And even on some of the more popular beaches, you don’t have to stroll far to have a stretch of sand all to yourself. And if you’d like luxury – even for a night or two – there are plenty of luxury resorts out there.
**While Haiti was a lovely destination when I visited in February 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists(as of December 2018). Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**
Since returning to the US from time living abroad a year ago, I’ve been to quite a few destinations in the Caribbean for vacation. I just didn’t expect Haiti to be one of them.
This was not my first visit to Haiti. Technically, anyway.
I did visit Labadee peninsula on Haiti’s northern coast for a day once, while on a Caribbean cruise with my family. But all I really saw that day was a beautiful beach.
This time I came to Haiti on a work trip over ten days, with about half the time spent in the capital city of Port-au-Prince and the other half to the north outside of the city.
I know Haiti does not top most people’s bucket list destinations, but I wanted to write about my experience anyway. For those of you who may never visit Haiti, it’s a bit of a glimpse into the culture and sights of this vibrant country. Or for the more adventurous readers out there, maybe you’ll consider taking a trip someday.
There’s only one way to know – read on!
Things You’d Never Guess to Expect on a Trip to Haiti
Finding travel information about Haiti was a bit of a challenge, as you might expect, with no Caribbean travel guide I perused even including it. First-hand accounts of people who had visited were few and far between. So other than a couple of friends-of-friends that I connected with, I was a bit of a blank slate going in.
I’m not exactly sure what I expected, but certainly there was plenty that I was surprised by.
Haitians take being presentable very seriously
I know enough French people to know that being oh-so-proper is typically French, I just didn’t realize how many French sensibilities had been internalized in Haiti. In my business meetings, men were always in long-sleeved dress shirts. Even when it was 32 degrees C/90 F outside and we were in rooms without air conditioning. Often there where blazers or suit jackets worn by both men and women. Plus, as you drive around you’ll see no shortage of shoe shining happening on the side of the road.
Speaking French only gets you so far in Haiti
I prepared to speak French. I don’t speak French particularly well, but with my Spanish and Italian language skills I understand a fair amount of both written and spoken French. Outside of business meetings though, everyone speaks Kreyol.
The main mode of transportation is the “tap tap”
I’ve seen collective taxis from the sherut service in Israel to the collectivos you’ll find in Latin American countries. What I’ve never seen before? Trucks that only know to stop when you bang the side of the vehicle – the “tap tap” sound that is also the name of the mode of transport.
People get their cars washed on the side of the road
Driving around and during my limited wanderings on foot during the day, I saw plenty of people getting pop-up carwashes on the side of the road, especially in Port-au-Prince. Usually there were several people offering car washes lined up on the shady side of the street (it is tropical and hot there, after all) and no shortage of people waiting in line for their turn.
Churches are beautiful
Although many of Haiti’s churches sustained damage in the 2010 earthquake, the ones still standing that I visited were absolutely lovely. For a moment it felt like being a tourist in any church anywhere else.
Bougainvillea at every turn
I saw a bit of bougainvillea peeking out over a wall and thought about how lovely it was. After seeing bougainvillea for the 10th time, I realized just how ever-present this flowering vine is all around Haiti, in bright shades of pink, purple, and orange.
There are so many Dominicans
Okay, sure, so both Haiti and the Dominican Republic share the island of Hispaniola. However I wasn’t expecting to encounter many Dominicans, although I met quite a few and got in a good amount of Spanish conversation during my trip.
Street food vendors have very fresh ingredients
Markets are central to Haitian commerce, as I can attest to after sitting through many a traffic jam driving through a town on market day. Even the vendors walking around with a basket on their head are carting around the food of the day. When I heard about the spicy Haitian peanut butter called mamba, I expected that it would come slathered on some square white bread out of a package and was instead delighted to have incredibly fresh boat-shaped mini loaves of bread, sliced and spread with the mamba to order, and served with a banana for a bit extra.
Armed guards at every hotel and restaurant
I actually didn’t even consciously notice this at first. I used to live in Israel and have been back often to visit, and they take their security pretty seriously there. Israel aside though, it is quite unusual to have armed guards posted at the door everywhere you go.
A parking spot can be anywhere
This is another thing I didn’t even take note of! Reading restaurant reviews (yes, I did, you know how I roll) I picked up on the fact that most people commented either that an establishment had plenty of parking or not enough. On the street, there are few and often no marked parking spots so the Haitians do the one thing I am all-too-familiar with from my time living in Italy – they jump the curb and park half on the sidewalk and half in the street.
The toilet situation was not as bad as I expected
I packed lots of tissue packs for my purse, wet wipes, and hand sanitizer, to be prepared for any bathroom situation that might arise. While I used all of these things at some point, in general I did not have nearly as many issues as I planned for, even at restaurants frequented mostly by locals. In fact, I used far more tissues as toilet paper in Naples, Italy than I ever did in Haiti.
Mountains. Stunningly beautiful mountains.
You may have heard of the book [easyazon_link identifier=”0812980557″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Mountains Beyond Mountains[/easyazon_link] about Dr. Paul Farmer, but that doesn’t even begin to describe how many lush green mountains you’ll encounter in Haiti. Every time you think you’ve reached the end of a range or are too close to the sea, another mountain pops into view.
You know something is a tourist attraction when you’re in a foreign country and the first person who approaches you to give a tour speaks to you in English. This is what happened to me when I arrived at Fort Jacques outside of Port-au-Prince, and it was just like colonial forts I’ve visited elsewhere in the Caribbean. Although I didn’t have time to see it all, there are plenty of similar attractions throughout the country to explore.
From mosaics to street art to paintings for sale, Haitians are all about their art. You’ll also see sculptures, wood carvings, and designs in metal without even seeking them out. I wish I had more time to explore the art scene during my time, it’s all absolutely lovely.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bf0l3unHNuO/
Latin Dance nights
Nope, I’m not confused about which blog post I’m writing, I went to a fabulous Latin Dance night during my time in Port-au-Prince, dancing salsa, bachata, merengue, and copa. The most unusual part – and I’ve gone Latin dancing in many places – was that almost none of the salsa music was Spanish! Instead it was salsa versions of popular tunes across a wide range of genres, from “Love Potion No. 9” to “Redemption Song” to “Wrecking Ball.”
Really nice restaurants
Port-au-Prince has some great dining destinations, and I was fortunate to explore many of them during my stay. I enjoyed delicious escargot at Brasserie Quartier Latin, some of the best goat of my life at La Plantation, and Middle Eastern delights like kibbeh at Magdoos along with a glass of excellent Viognier.
I spent an inordinate amount of time at my hotel the night before my departure being sure to print out hard copies of my boarding passes for my flight back to the US. And then I arrived at the airport in the morning to find that it’s a very automated check-in procedure with scanning machines just like in any modern city I’ve visited. With some very serious airport security. Just know that anyone who comes to help you with your luggage or check-in is really there for a tip.
Should You Visit?
As I traveled to Haiti for work, I didn’t intend to write a post about going as a tourist – but you might want to visit as one!
There will be plenty of natural beauty and friendly people to appreciate if you do go.
The travel warnings out there are legitimately scary and fear-inducing – and sadly exist for a reason – so if you do decide to visit Haiti, there are some key guidelines to follow to do it safely.
What You’ll Need
A Trustworthy Driver or Tour. It is not recommended for visitors to transport themselves anywhere. I’m normally the type of traveler who dives into public transport, however even taxis aren’t recommended as they can be part of crime targeting foreigners. All of my transport was either with the driver from work or the hotel shuttle. Find a driver you can trust or go on an organized trip.
→ The only company I’ve seen doing organized tours of Haiti is G Adventures. While I have never traveled with them, other travel bloggers have, and they recommend them as being a responsible tourism provider offering quality trips. You can learn more about their Haiti trips HERE.
→ I didn’t know about this company at the time of my visit, but thanks to a recent Essence magazine article, I found out about the Haitian Nomad, which does many types of day tours around Haiti. Get more information about possible tours HERE.
Mental preparation for airport chaos. This was the biggest thing I was told in advance of flying to Port-au-Prince, and you will need to keep your wits about you in the airport before you even find your trusty driver! There will be lots of people swooping in to help and expecting tips before you even get to the person who will usher you through your trip.
Lots of immunizations and health precautions. Haiti has both malaria and zika, plus has a fair number of communicable diseases you can catch, including from the water and food. You’ll definitely want a whole host of immunizations before you go as well as to be taking many precautions while in country. I was lucky to not have any health issues, although I also came prepared and used my heavy-duty bug spray liberally.
An openness to adventure. Haiti is definitely a destination I’d recommend for the more seasoned traveler, who is flexible and open to the unknown and adventure. For most visitors, the local culture will be quite different from what is typical at home, and having an open mind will be key to enjoying a visit.
Limitations on Your Visit
You can’t drink the water. I also avoided fresh salads that might have been washed in water and drinks with ice, except at higher-end restaurants.
You can’t walk on your own at night. Even if your hotel is a 5-minute stroll by foot. Even if you will walk fast. Even if it’s just around the corner. It’s just not safe.
Walking on your own during the day is fine, but might get uncomfortable. When I was in Port-au-Prince walking around during the day, I was on my own. I was the only white person that I saw on the street and was very obviously and immediately identified as a foreigner. I encountered people begging for money with every step. Someone tried to swindle me for gas money by saying, “Don’t you remember me? I’m the security guard from the restaurant you ate at on Monday.” (He wasn’t.) And there are signs of poverty everywhere you look and of people who are out on the streets all day that you’re probably not accustomed to (like a woman peeing on the sidewalk crouched next to a truck).
There are very long transit times to drive between places. Don’t just look at how close things are on a map of Haiti, and assume you’ll be able to get there quickly. Most “highways” in Haiti only have a single lane in each direction and often questionable road conditions. And that’s even before taking into account the traffic. I encountered traffic at rush hour, traffic on market days, traffic from animals crossing the road, and the worst traffic delay of the trip when there were student protests blocking the road and a 40-minute trip instead took 2 hours.
Benefits of a Trip to Haiti
Natural beauty. The mountains are stunning. My day hiking was one of my favorites from the trip. The beaches are idyllic, with the same clear turquoise water you’ll see across the Caribbean, and far fewer crowds. You could quite happily park yourself at a beach resort for a week and be thrilled.
Historical sights. I got to visit Fort Jacques and Fort Alexandre outside of Port-au-Prince, and only wish that I had more time to explore in other parts of the country. Although I was geographically close to other spots, the driving time did not allow for a visit to the Citadelle or Sans-Souci Palace or Fort des Oliviers, all of which look incredible. Read a recent tourist’s account of visiting Haiti, including these notable sights, HERE.
Amazingly flavorful, spicy food and local specialties. I had delicious dishes in Haiti that I haven’t seen anywhere else in the Caribbean. There was the spicy peanut butter called mamba that would come spread on fresh bread, the dish known as accra made from a grated root vegetable called malanga that’s fried into patties, and the djon djon mushroom from the north that’s used to flavor rice or chicken.
I even got to savor the juice of local cachiman (different apparently from the custard apple the internet pulls up) that you probably won’t be able to sample anywhere else. I only ordered this because I picked the one thing whose name I didn’t recognize on the juice list, and it turned out to be delicious – like a fabulously light and creamy (almost) coconut milk.
It’s wayyy off-the-beaten-track for tourism. No one I encountered was in Haiti for vacation. Which may be why you want to go!
TIP! Yes, Haiti is a lovely country, but there is also a lot to be wary of in order to stay safe. I would only recommend a visit to Haiti for the seasoned traveler prone to being over-cautious and not taking any unnecessary risks.
Recommended Haiti Reading
Are you curious about Haiti now? Well good. There are plenty of fiction and non-fiction books out there that will help give you the flavor of life in Haiti and also a bit more about the challenges the country has faced. I blew through these books, which was a great accompaniment to my visit.
[easyazon_link identifier=”1841629235″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Haiti: Bradt Travel Guide[/easyazon_link] by Paul Clammer. Last updated in 2017, this is pretty much the only current travel guide out there for Haiti and has a wealth of information about visiting and Haitian culture.
[easyazon_link identifier=”0812980557″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Mountains Beyond Mountains: The Quest of Dr. Paul Farmer, A Man Who Would Cure the World[/easyazon_link] by Tracy Kidder. Tells the story of a doctor revolutionizing rural health care in Haiti and also impacting global health efforts.
[easyazon_link identifier=”1551524988″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]The World is Moving Around Me: A Memoir of the Haiti Earthquake[/easyazon_link] by Dany Laferrière. A first-hand account of Haiti’s 2010 earthquake by a Haitian author who has lived in Canada for decades but just happened to be in Haiti on the day of the quake.
[easyazon_link identifier=”1610390989″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Haiti: After the Earthquake[/easyazon_link] by Dr. Paul Farmer. Written by the doctor who is the subject of the first book on the list, he tells his account of treating the injured in the earthquake’s aftermath and gives context for the scope of the disaster.
[easyazon_link identifier=”0307472272″ locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Claire of the Sea Light[/easyazon_link] by Edwidge Danticat. Fictional story set in Haiti by one of its most famous authors, who has a range of other books as well. I always love reading fiction set in a place for giving me a sense of the destination without it being the central point of the story, and her other books also come highly recommended. [easyazon_link identifier=”161695700X” locale=”US” tag=”travelsavvyga-20″]Krik Krak[/easyazon_link] is next on the list for me.
Where is the most off-the-beaten-path place you’ve been in your travels? What surprised you most about Haiti from this post? Would you ever consider a visit to Haiti for vacation? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!
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The sun is starting to set over Ha Long Bay, one of the most picturesque spots of coastal Vietnam, with floating houses and local boat traffic intermingled with dramatic rock formations jutting out of the bay.
I’ve lifted my oar out of the water, and have paused for a moment, listening to the rhythm of the water lapping next to the kayak.
It should be one of the most peaceful moments of the trip, enjoying golden hour out on the bay. But instead, a deep panic is tightening its grip.
How It All Began
“Just perfect,” I had thought, as I made the booking in person the evening before. I like to rock climb when I travel, even though I don’t always travel with people who do. Luckily I was able to convince my travel buddy in Vietnam to come along for the full day of adventure – a morning of rock climbing followed by an afternoon kayaking around Ha Long Bay. For me, the perfect vacation itinerary.
The day started off typically enough. We boarded a boat with our guides and a large group, then split off based on which outdoor adventure came first. There were several activities available, and everyone basically mixed and matched different half-day components to enjoy.
The morning was picture-perfect as a group of us were dropped on a white sand beach overlooking the turquoise water, with rock formations towering overhead.
The surroundings were absolutely breathtaking, and the hours flew by meeting fellow travelers and scaling the limestone. Even now, that morning in Ha Long Bay was some of the best outdoor climbing I’ve ever done in my travels.
At mid-day the various groups returned to the boat for a communal lunch and some swimming in between the two halves of the day.
Setting Off Kayaking in Ha Long Bay
The afternoon of kayaking in Ha Long Bay involved a different mix of people than the first half of the day, and there were 7 kayaks full of people that set off.
Of course, what was a minor footnote at the time became critically important later in the afternoon. The rock climbing guide from the morning was not feeling well, and couldn’t go out with the afternoon climbing group. So the tour operator did the logical thing and had the ill staff member stay on the boat, and the original kayaking guide went with the climbing group instead.
Which meant that our kayaking group would be without a guide.
But it was simple enough: “Just keep turning to the left as you kayak, and you’ll get back to the boat.”
This made sense to all of us, so we grabbed kayaks and oars and set off into the sunshine.
The first few hours of kayaking in Ha Long Bay were glorious. It involved leisurely jutting back and forth ahead of one another as we took turns stopping off at random beaches on the many islands dotting Ha Long Bay, weaving in and out of the rock formations along the way.
Honestly, there was no clear left with how irregular it all was, but we were all making what was generally a counter-clockwise loop around the area.
And Then…
We were supposed to be back at the boat by 5pm to reconvene with the other afternoon groups and head back into town. So around 4:30pm, when there was no end or break in the rock formation in sight, what earlier had been a fairly spread out swath of kayaks started to cluster closer together to figure out where we were and how much farther there was left to go to find our way back.
At 4:45pm, with no left turn still available, we all started to simple paddle harder, assuming that we had been a little too leisurely earlier. And that if we just went a bit faster, we would shortly find the boat.
By 5pm, and the island’s edge extending far into the distance, I think we all realized that we were lost. And in trouble.
We didn’t know where we were.
We didn’t know where the boat was.
We didn’t see anyone else in sight besides our group of kayaks.
We didn’t know exactly how we arrived to the spot we were currently.
We didn’t know if it was closer to try and retrace our path or keep going forward.
We didn’t know if the boat was looking for us. Or waiting for us, even.
The only thing we did know, was that we had to stick together, and that we’d make the situation even more dangerous by splitting up as night was about to fall.
We also realized at some point around this time that we were only 6 of the 7 kayaks that had gone out, and were just hoping the other kayak had somehow made its way back to the boat, and wasn’t even more lost than we were – and alone!
The consensus was to continue on and hope that we came across the boat, or even someone (anyone!) who might be able to help
With each stroke of the paddle, the situation seemed more and more hopeless.
We didn’t know where we were. No one had a phone. And no one had much of a plan other than to keep moving.
At the beginning of what felt like a possibly dangerous situation, I was trying to stay calm and keep a clear head. With each passing minute though, the calm was being replaced by progressively more and more dire panic.
All of the worst case scenarios started to surface . . . We could be lost for days . . . How would anyone find us? . . . What if the weather turned bad?
We had minimal fresh water left and no food.
And my arms were feeling exhausted.
The several hours of morning rock climbing and the escalating pace of our paddling was weighing my arms down with each stroke. Somehow the adrenaline of the situation was carrying me forward, but it was starting to feel like my arms could not continue at this pace for all that much longer.
After what felt like an eternity of Herculean paddling effort – and was probably more likely a half hour or so – finally the horizon changed when a large freighter boat faintly came into sight in the fading light of the day.
Hope
Frantically we all started paddling toward the boat while also trying to dramatically wave our arms and oars to get the attention of someone on board. Luckily it was a pretty large vessel that was moving relatively slowly, so our paddling efforts allowed us to approach closer even as the boat continued to move, and finally get someone on the ship to notice us.
Of course, being well out of the touristy part of Ha Long Bay at this point, no one on board spoke any English (and no one in our group spoke Vietnamese).
The only thing that made what came next possible was that someone on another kayak had a waterproof digital camera, and I’ve never been so grateful for a piece of technology in my life.
He had taken a picture with the side of the boat in it earlier in the day. Which just so happened to also have the ship’s markings – with the name and phone number of the tour company emblazoned in bright yellow paint on the dark brown background. And thank goodness he had the clarity to think of this and pull it up!
Despite no common words or language, the boat crew fortunately could figure out that we were looking for the boat in the photo and to call them. And that calling the phone number might lead to someone who spoke Vietnamese and could help sort out what all of us were doing this far out on the water, with night falling rapidly.
The next few minutes were a blur, with my usual focus clouded by the all-encompassing anticipation of maybe, just maybe, being able to get back to our boat.
There were enough hand motions happening to indicate that this boat found our other boat by phone, and even that alone was a source of great relief. Even more amazing in that moment we somehow were able to figure out that our tour boat was still waiting on us.
And by a great stroke of luck, the giant freighter boat (that hadn’t even been headed that way!) was willing to take us back to our boat. Which otherwise would have been a very long paddle – probably lasting the approximately 4 hours it had taken us to reach this spot.
Savoring One of My Luckiest Travel Moments Ever
The freighter being so high off the water, there was no real way for us to board, but they tossed us a rope. With the panic subsiding, clear thought seemed to take over as we all methodically tied our kayaks to one another, and then to the sturdy-looking rope they had tossed to us off the back of the boat.
Secure and never more relieved, we flashed each other giant smiles as the freighter started to move.
All of the kayaks were bunched together, so as the boat picked up speed, we actually started to bang horizontally into one another. Which was entirely unexpected.
On another day, we might have considered this to be just another part of the adventure. But in this moment, still emotionally charged, the collisions presented what felt like a lethal danger. The last thing we needed was for one of the kayaks to get damaged or ropes to snap off, given the afternoon we’d had.
So we each pushed the end of our oars horizontally into the side of the adjacent kayak to create a consistent bit of space as we bounced in all directions in the wake of the boat rushing forward. Hitting the water, but no longer hitting each other.
Once we got our configuration stabilized, it all started to sink in. How close we had been to being lost and stranded. In the dark. Without anything to eat or drink. And along with those emotions, also reveling in the sheer joy that comes with relief of that magnitude after a crisis. Especially with the beautiful surroundings of Ha Long Bay at sunset rushing by.
One of the most serious terrors I’ve experienced first-hand transformed into being overtaken by a sense of deep, meditative calm. Which then morphed into joy and exhilaration as my adrenaline response faded and I could be again fully present in the moment. Feeling the breeze of being dragged along, the fun of bouncing on the water, and the absolute humility and gratitude at the mysterious ways of the universe that led to our improbable rescue.
Although this wasn’t my most recent time getting rescued by a boat after being stranded, this was definitely one of the most dangerous and terrifying situations I’ve encountered in all of my travels – even though it all worked out in the end. (Including that 7th kayak not with us, who had never gotten lost, and made it back to the boat on time.)
Had things gone even just a bit differently, I am not exaggerating when I say that I might not be here to share this story.
Thinking Back On It Now
Even with all the chaos and panic, there was so very much I was grateful for that day:
We were 6 kayaks lost together.
Someone had a waterproof camera and had taken a picture of the side of the boat with the phone number.
That the camera still had battery charge to pull up the photo.
That we even found another boat to flag down.
That the freighter stopped for us.
And was willing to try and figure out what was going on.
And call.
Then was willing to go off course and tow us along.
That the original boat waited for us, even before they had heard from us about where we were.
That we were able to make it safely back into port.
Especially since unbeknownst to us at the time, tourist boats on day trips are not allowed to return to the bay after sunset.
Which led to us – and everyone else out on a tour that day – ducking down as we re-entered the bay after sunset. I would have happily done whatever crazy thing was being requested to ensure our safe return to dry land, and fortunately we made it back without being stopped by the Ha Long Bay harbor patrol.
I could have bent down to kiss the ground, I was so elated to finally step off the boat after such a long ordeal out on the water.
I couldn’t tell you any of their names, but I made some friends for life in that shared life-threatening afternoon.
There is this indescribable bonding that comes with shared calamity – especially while traveling. After a much-needed shower to restore a sense of normalcy and wash away the drama of the day, we came back together to relive it all, sharing a meal together at a local spot in town.
And of course back on land and with a WiFi connection at the guesthouse, we were finally able to pull up a map of where we had been.
It turns out that there was an inlet about 15-20 minutes into kayaking that was meant to be the left turn that would lead back to the boat. Once we missed that turn, it probably would have taken days of kayaking in Ha Long Bay to propel ourselves around the giant island that kept going and going and going.
It was so lucky that we encountered that other boat. By the time the freighter picked us up, we were only a small fraction of the way around the giant mass. Although of course we had no way of knowing that at the time.
I’m not sure if it was there when I took this trip back in 2012, but now the FAQ on the tour outfitter website warns that “Even with a compass, it can be extremely difficult to navigate among islands. For this reason, all of our kayak trips are guided.”
Lessons Learned
So, would I do it all again? Is there anything that I would do differently next time?
Honestly, I would still go kayaking in Ha Long Bay. But even if it was with a guide (like this trip was meant to be!) I would definitely be more prepared. Because really, anything can happen.
TIP! If you’re doing any water activities (or even just think you might), get a waterproof bag you can take with you. this clear one that comes in many color options but is clear enough to see the contents.
TIP! Have a phone with a local SIM card with credit or an international plan to be able to call for help if you need to.
TIP! Always have the phone number of any tour company you use in your travels.
TIP! Use a map program to save any group meeting point to your cell phone.
TIP! Check in at the halfway point before you need to make your way back to your tour group, to be sure there is enough time to return.
TIP! Trust your instincts! If a situation starts to feel dangerous, treat it that way and act accordingly. I talk about trusting that intuition in my post on Solo Travel, but really, it’s an important tip to keep in mind whenever you are on the road, alone or not.
Nothing is foolproof when you travel – and the unexpected can always happen – but a bit of preparedness will go a long way in keeping you safe.
Have you ever been lost in your travels? How did it turn out? Any things you would do differently the next time around? Any other tips I missed?
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The Best Tour of the Sydney Opera House: Backstage at 7am
Anyone who knows me will tell you that I’m not a morning person, but I can be persuaded to wake up early for the right motivation. The Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House, which only runs once a day at 7am, is one of the best tours I’ve ever taken and was definitely worth the early morning.
I first read about this possibility in my Lonely Planet Australia (Travel Guide)>Lonely Planet Australia book, and immediately circled that part of the entry and knew I’d find a way to make the tour happen during my few days in Sydney. Luckily, not only was the tour available, but we ended up being the only two people and got a very personalized experience.
Sydney Opera House in the Morning Light
Overview: Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House
The Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House is only offered at 7am, because by around 9 or 10am rehearsals begin, and then all of the stage areas are off-limits to tourists. Which means that on the tour, you get to be backstage before performers arrive!
It basically is an intimate look at the Opera House, getting to see several stages and concert halls, and all of the places behind the scenes that you won’t get to go when you attend a performance. Plus, since it’s an early morning start, the tour also includes breakfast.
Seeing the Stages
As you stroll through the stages, there are a ton of pieces from the sets of various performances. It’s incredibly cool to see them up close, however they tend to be copyright-protected (who knew that theater sets were such serious business?) so you won’t see any photos of them below.
Although the sets are proprietary, fortunately the stages and theaters are not. I got some great shots from the stage looking outward:
I Danced on Stage at the Sydney Opera House!
And Did a Bit of Conducting
Of the pretty amazing performance spaces, the Concert Hall is the largest. It has also hosted an incredible list of presenters and performers, from Pope John Paul II to Kanye West to Ella Fitzgerald to Arnold Schwarzenegger. Here is a glimpse:
Backstage Access
Getting to go backstage is kind of implied in the tour name, and it was just as cool as I had imagined. Performances at the Sydney Opera House are frequent throughout the year, so there are inevitably some cool details to spot. Some of my favorites:
The Pit Dress Code (pardon that this is a bit fuzzy with the lighting). Also, thongs = flip flops in Australian.
“Don Q” Group Notes for the Dance Numbers
Lipstick Wall of Good Luck
The Green Room
The Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House usually begins with breakfast in the Green Room, a holding room for performers before and after a show. During my visit however, it still had not been cleaned up from the previous night, so we ate elsewhere. We still got to visit though, and get an actual glimpse of what it looks like all set up:
Food Spread from the Previous Night
Yes, the Green Room has a View of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Bring your sunnies!
Backstage Tour = Getting to Play the Piano in the Green Room
Building Architecture
Probably the most recognizable building in Australia, the Opera House with its white sails is an iconic part of the view of Sydney. Getting to go on a tour of the Sydney Opera House, there is so much you learn and also realize by seeing the building exterior up close.
A fairly unknown Danish architect won an international contest for the building’s design back in the 1950s. There was a bit of drama along the way with construction (the architect eventually resigned from the project!) but everyone of course loves the final product.
The most surprising things to me were all the things I found out about the white sails. I don’t know how much I had ever thought about it before, but the sails are meant to be like the sails of a boat, given the Opera House’s position right on Sydney Harbour (yup, I’m spelling it like the Aussies do).
Not only are the different heights of the sails a nice aesthetic effect, but it’s also functional, as it represents the varying heights of the differently-sized performance spaces inside.
And when you get up close to the sails, you realize that there’s actually texture and a pattern overlaid on top, it’s not just painted white:
Amazing detail of the sails that you can only really see up close
Practical Tips for Visiting
For the Backstage Tour, your best bet is to reserve online in advance. Tickets purchased this way are offered at a 10% discount, and you’ll guarantee your spot, especially given the time of day. Plus, not all days are open like the morning I went. There is just the one tour at 7am each day, and there is a daily cap at 12 people.
TIP! Since the Backstage Tour has such an early start, I also recommend that you book accommodations somewhere nearby or with an easy time to get to the Opera House. That way you’ll be sure to arrive on time.
The Backstage Tour
7am only, daily except Christmas & Good Friday
2.5 hours
165 AUD
Prices listed are before the 10% online discount, so you’ll pay a bit less when booking online.
Even if you can’t get in for the 7am Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House, I’d recommend taking one of the regular tours so you can see the inside of the building. Another way to get a glimpse inside is to buy tickets to attend one of the events held there, which include all sorts of musical and theatrical performances.
But really, if you want a close-up look of the inner workings of this iconic Australian landmark, and lots of time to explore inside, I can’t recommend the Backstage Tour enough!
Would you be willing to brave the early wake up to take the Backstage Tour? Any other tips I missed for visiting the Sydney Opera House?
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Travel Story: Experiencing Flamenco in Seville, Spain
It is mystical, powerful, emotional. A word that defies definition.
Embodied in the flourish of a bullfighter snapping his red cape in an impassioned ¡Olé!
Captured in the intensity of the flamenco music and dance.
Or in my case, the primal wonder I too felt, experiencing a performance of flamenco in Seville.
Flamenco in One Word: Duende.
Carnal, primal
The lone square of dance floor
The stomp
The clap
The hip sway
The allure
Inviting the audience in
Then repelling us in a moment, with the quick double snap of the castanets
Other spots cater to tourists with performers on a stage
But this spot is real, personal
Low-key with nachos and pitchers of sangria
Two shows nightly
I’m so entranced by the first performance
My friend and I know instantly we’ll stay for both
The performers change but the sustained intensity is real
The passion for the craft
The pride in recreating those time-honored, ancient steps
with feeling
making them personal
The raw emotion of falling in love and losing it all
The intensity and depth of feeling that comes through with every step
every sultry, seductive beckoning
And I’m so close
I can see the beads of sweat
Feel her eyes sear through me
The artist at work
With feeling
It all feels so personal in this moment
And everyone in the room channels the electricity
This is flamenco
The reason everyone seeks it out
To live the emotional arc
Be brought up high, only to land grounded at the earth at the end
Feeling touched by the experience
Emotions at the surface
This is what it means to live
To live your art
Art is life.
Pictures are not allowed of the performances, which I realize too late
I’ve taken one.
A single visual memory of the magic created in an intimate space
The whisper of flamenco lingering with me
And a feeling
That this life is amazing, and intense
Meant to be lived with full passion, a full heart
Chasing your dreams
Having a passion even if you do not profit from it at all
Using your passion to connect with others to inspire them
And I leave inspired
Something burning in me that I have not yet channeled
A blog that has not yet been dreamt of
An intensity of a singular travel experience that makes me send every friend who goes to Seville to this spot
Then taking years to even attempt to capture the experience of that night in words
None of stacking up to the experience of sitting in that audience
making eye contact with the dancer behind the performance
and letting my soul be stirred
It only works if you let it.
Seeing Flamenco in Seville
Admittedly, I had not done much to prepare for my trip to Seville (and the friend I was traveling with hadn’t either). We tried to make up for the lack of advance planning by posting on Facebook and pinging friends we knew had been. From the airport!
As we fielded suggestions, I was surprised at the recommendation to see a flamenco show, specifically at La Carboneria. It was honestly not on my radar at all. But I’m so glad we went.
It is free to see flamenco at La Carboneria, with shows at 9:30 and 10:30pm (and sometimes also 11:30pm). There is a bar on one side, a small square slab for flamenco dancing on the other, and long tables and benches in between. La Carboneria has a full bar, which includes the option of purchasing sangria by the liter. There are also some pretty basic food options, which we did not sample since we had eaten beforehand.
Many locals call this the best flamenco in Seville, and surprisingly, the audience was a mix of both locals and visitors. The venue certainly does not cater to tourists, and felt like a very local experience you wouldn’t find anywhere else.
TIP! It is also a very intimate space, so if you get there enough in advance, you can snag a spot on a bench right next to the dancer.
TIP! If you stay for multiple shows, a lot of people leave after seeing one performance and you can snag a better spot then.
For the performance itself, there is a guitar player and a single dancer expresses her art on a fairly small square slab placed on the floor, that looks as if it is made from some sort of slate or rock. The steps are incredibly intricate, but it is the emotion and intensity – the duende – behind both the dancing and guitar playing that defines flamenco.
It was so mesmerizing we knew immediately after the first performance that we would stay for a second show.
I was obviously a ‘blogger in the making’ at the time, because I struck up a conversation with the dancer there that night in between shows. Apparently it is not the same person every night, but over the course of the week, two or three excellent dancers who do flamenco dancing as their passion. And it shows.
While I fell in love with La Carboneria , many tourists (including some who have also been to this spot) prefer the larger, choreographed show you can pay for at other venues. With a bigger show, there are more performers, brighter colored outfits, and a stage where you can more easily see the complex footwork of flamenco.
If that’s you, definitely plan to catch a different flamenco show that matches your style, it’s such an incredible art form to experience!
TIP! There are a range of flamenco shows around Seville. Some are free, others are paid shows, and it depends from one to the next if food and/or drinks are included with the ticket price.
I had (almost) forgotten so many things that make Perth a wonderful and unique city. I lived there for just over a year, and then went for my first return trip just a few months ago. I pride myself on having an excellent memory, so it really was quite a shock to the system to realize how much of what I knew about Perth that had migrated to the outer edges of my recollections and only returned to my consciousness in force when I was experiencing the city in person again.
The thing about moving away from a city where you’ve lived is that while you take many memories with you, there are so many more memories that are so inextricably tied to a sense of place that you only recall them walking the same streets, hearing the noises of the neighborhood, and smelling the aromas you’ve left behind. It’s the reason we re-visit places from our past, and why we’re drawn in some cases to travel to the same place over and over again.
Even many Australians from east coast cities like Melbourne and Sydney have never ventured to Perth (for those of you unfamiliar with the size of Australia, it’s about the size of the continental US – taking 5 hours flying to traverse east to west), so Perth can be a bit of a mystery, even to the Aussies. Every city has its own flavor, and Perth is no different, with all its quirks.
Here are some things that stood out in my rush of memories on my recent visit, and that you should also expect when you go. Things that are “so Perth.”
#1 | Friendly People
Australians in general are a pretty friendly bunch, and people in Perth really exemplify this. You’ll notice it when you’re getting coffee or browsing in a shop, or doing any activity really. On my recent trip I went to an outdoor kickboxing class with a friend, and the friendliness of the *other* people taking the class really blew me away. Although I was not a regular and they did not know me, every time we were running laps between intervals, the Aussies were shouting “good on you” and other words of encouragement. A stark contrast to other places I’ve lived for sure.
#2 | Sunny Days
When most people picture Australia, it’s probably a sunny image, but Perth takes things to a whole new level. It’s the sunniest capital city in the world, averaging 8 hours of sunshine daily, so any visit is likely to include mostly sun-filled days. For me this also means that I usually have some sort of hat or visor with me at all times, because the Australian sunshine is H-O-T. And beware that the hole in the ozone layer above Australia is no joke. I would sometimes get a bit of color or even sunburn on my 10-minute walk to the grocery store. But if you’re anything like me, bright sunshine puts you in a good mood, so every day feels like a pleasant vacation.
#3 | Great Coffee
Anyone who’s ever been to Australia knows that there are excellent espresso-drinks nearly everywhere – in fact, it was when I was living in Perth that I became a full-fledged coffee snob. Perth is pretty laid-back overall, but they sure do take their coffee seriously, from the beans to the roast to the barista artwork. And when you’re arriving in Perth from outside Australia like I was on my recent visit, the difference is striking. Enjoy several discerning cups of coffee, and appreciate it while you can.
#4 | Beaches
Like most major settlements across Australia, Perth is basically on the coast. The Central Business District, or CBD, is a bit inland along the Swan River, but most of metropolitan Perth’s coast is along the Indian Ocean. There are several great surfing beaches easily accessible by public transportation, areas like Mettam’s Pool with world-class snorkeling right off the beach, extended sections of coast that are basically a giant playground like Hillary’s Boat Harbour, and plenty of bars and restaurants up and down the coastline. Beaches are so loved by locals I even had co-workers on adjusted work schedules so they could head to the beach before or after work EVERY DAY.
#5 | Wind
People in Perth always told me that it was the 1st sunniest capital city in the world and the 3rd windiest. I’m not sure how accurate the windiest claim is, but the takeaway is that Perth can be quite shockingly windy. Somehow the grid of the CBD lines up with the typical wind currents, so you’ll experience some pretty strong wind gusts in the streets of downtown. It also tends to get more windy as the day goes on, so people in the know head to the beaches in the morning hours, before the windiest part of the day sets in.
#6 | Kangaroos
You don’t need to go to a wildlife park or zoo to get a glimpse of a kangaroo – there are plenty of wild kangaroos hanging out in and around Perth. Not far (and walkable!) from the CBD is Heirisson Island, with an area open to the public with wild kangaroos, in full view of the downtown skyscrapers. There are also quite a few wild kangaroos that hang out and play in Yanchep National Park, north of the city. When I was at Yanchep there were some kangaroos fighting – remember that kangaroos are powerful animals and don’t get too close in the wild, they have a fierce kick when balanced on their tail! Still very cool that kangaroos are just hanging around in many places throughout the city, especially at dusk.
#7 | Rainbows
For a place as sunny as Perth, rainbows are not something you would expect with great frequency. But there is just something about the weather patterns (and possibly how quickly the sun reappears after rainfall?) that makes huge arcs of color a common sight. Living there, I remember being very excited the first time I saw a rainbow, and immediately snapped a picture. A few days later, I felt like the luckiest rainbow-spotter ever, and took another photo. Not long after, I realized how often rainbows would appear, although that didn’t make them any less beautiful. I probably took more rainbow pictures in my one year living there than everywhere else I’ve ever visited combined!
#8 | Crazy Costs
Australia is a giant island, so many things have to be brought in from overseas, and are priced accordingly. Perth is so isolated – even from the rest of Australia – that prices can even be a bit higher than in other parts of Oz. The good news is that while the prices look exorbitant, for many nationalities coming from abroad, the currency exchange rate is way more favorable now than before. For example, when I lived there 5 years ago, the Australian dollar and US dollar were basically at parity, US$1 = AUD$1. Now an Australian dollar only costs about 75 US cents. My strategy on my last trip was to think about paying in US dollars or Euro, and then I had a very pleasant surprise when I saw the actual charges on my credit card bill =)
#9 | Wine Country
Did you know that Western Australia produces a disproportionally large percentage of Australia’s premium wines? While the most famous region is Margaret River, about a 3-hour drive south of Perth, don’t worry if you don’t have enough time to make that trek. Because there is also a wonderful wine region that is right off of the Perth metro, called Swan Valley, not far from the city center. It’s an easy drive to get there from Perth by car or metro, you can rent bikes and ride around the 32-kilometer loop that links many of the area wineries, or sign up for one of the many food and wine tours of the area. It’s the oldest wine region in Western Australia, and the area now boasts breweries, distilleries, and many excellent purveyors of culinary products – from coffee to honey to lavender.
There are lots of birds all over Perth, but those you’re likely to encounter are the swans, the ravens, and the magpies.
To See: Perth was settled around the Swan River, and you can guess how the river got its name! Especially along the bike and walking paths along the river’s edge in the CBD, you’ll come across both white and black swans, just a short stroll from the heart of the city. While they are beautiful, keep your distance as swans are not the nicest of animals.
To Hear: You’ll hear the ravens before you see them, and as you listen to their repetitive, whiny caw, you’ll wonder how a bird could possibly make such an unpleasant noise. The birds tend to be black and either up in a tree or hopping around along the ground, as long as no people have approached too closely. I had nearly forgotten all about their existence until the first time I heard their distinctive call during my recent trip. There is a lot of green space throughout the city of Perth, so there are plenty of trees where the birds like to nest, and you’ll hear them if you’re walking anywhere in the vicinity.
To Avoid:
Magpies, innocuous-looking black and white birds, can pose quite a danger when defending their urban nesting areas. You’ll need to be cautious during their ‘swooping season’ in September and October, when they can actually cause real damage to humans, especially cyclists. If you’ll be around Perth then, familiarize yourself with tips on staying safe. There is a good overview of what to do and not to do from Australia’s LifeHacker site here.
#11 | Bustling Downtown
Lots of cities have a bustling downtown, but the city of Perth makes it even easier to navigate – for free! There is actually a Free Tansit Zone (FTZ) that encompasses the major swath of downtown. All of the bus lines that cross through the CBD are free so long as you board and leave within the boundaries of the FTZ. There are also several CAT lines (red, blue, yellow, & green) for ‘Central Area Transit’ that loop through the downtown area – and even a bit beyond – that are completely free to ride. This means that during lunchtime on a weekday, local workers don’t typically restrict themselves to the immediate vicinity of their office building, but can be seen riding the buses to hit up the best restaurants for a delicious lunch, all within the time constraints of their lunch break – and for free.
#12 | Fireworks
When I lived in Perth, the first time I was sitting on the couch on a Tuesday evening and heard the explosive noise, I was alarmed and had to take a moment to think. My New Yorker sensibilities suggested that it might be a gunshot or explosion, but then I realized that not only is Australia (and Perth in particular) incredibly safe, but almost nobody owns a gun due to its strict laws. My next thought – could it be fireworks? I rushed out to the balcony to take a look and was delighted to discover a colorful display taking place over the Swan River. Little did I know when choosing an apartment that its view would offer front-row seating for the ridiculously frequent fireworks displays. Fireworks displays happen so often in Perth there’s even a blog dedicated to just that – Why are there fireworks in Perth tonight? So yes, when you visit, if you’re downtown in the early evening, you’ll probably see fireworks. Look up and enjoy the show!
As you can tell, I loved Perth and found it such an interesting place to be able to live. And recently, to come back as a visitor. While Australia if far from many places, it’s quite close to Asia, and a great place to pop into when you’re nearby or set as a destination for a longer trip.
Anything I missed about Perth? Any things that are also “so typical” about where you live? Share in the Comments below!
Fun Facts About Detroit: Things to Know Before You Visit
A blank stare ensues. Apparently no one goes to Detroit for fun. And my answer is not yet sufficient.
So I continue after the pause, “I have some friends who live there that I’m visiting.”
There it is, suddenly. The knowing, almost imperceptible nod of approval.
And it bothers me. So I interject –
“I hear they have a really great food scene there, I’m excited to check it out. If I didn’t want to go to Detroit, I would have asked my friends to meet me somewhere else. I’m going because I want to go.”
And that statement basically covers it, I went because I wanted to. And I had a blast because it’s a great city. Oh yeah, my friends are pretty wonderful and amazing, too =)
Most people know the city of Detroit, Michigan as an industrial giant (which it is), but these days there is oh-so-much-more to experience when you go, and my head was swimming with fun facts about Detroit within minutes of my arrival.
I had the benefit of being hosted by two friends when I went – a native and a recent transplant – and getting some great local perspectives. Plus, I had a day of exploring on my own to get yet another view of Detroit, getting even more answers to the question, “What is Detroit known for?
Some fun facts about Detroit that I picked up along the way
Detroit sure is known for a lot of things . . .
It is ‘Motor City.’
Detroit is probably best known for the American car industry giants that call the city home. Many skyscrapers downtown are named for the big three: Chrysler, Ford, and General Motors. And despite the financial struggles of the last decade, they are all still a strong presence in the city.
But Quicken Loans is catching up quick.
It’s not the only large financial company based in Detroit (Ally Bank also has its headquarters there), but in Detroit these days, Quicken is larger than life. The company has been expanding its footprint, and famous founder Dan Gilbert now owns a whopping amount of downtown Detroit.
Detroit is equally well-known for its music.
Sure, I knew about the legacy of Motown and rapper Eminem. And that there’s even a Motown Museum in town. So I wasn’t surprised to hear plenty of tunes from that era playing at the Food Bank Fundraiser/wine tasting event I went to my first night in town.
Less expected ‘Detroit music’ heard that night? San Francisco area band Journey’s ballad “Don’t Stop Believin’,” when everyone in the room belted out the line “born and raised in south Detroit.” Ah yes (that was the moment I realized Detroit was in that song). Except that there is no such thing as south Detroit.
Detroit-area local Kid Rock gets some pretty good air time on local radio stations still. And The White Stripes are also hometown sweethearts, further cemented by the now local Jack White-owned Third Man Records, which was a blast to visit.
Detroit has a Zero Mile (Point of Origin), but it’s not as easy to find as you’d think.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Baebblgn-ZC/
Rapper Eminem’s movie 8 Mile brought Detroit into the public consciousness, and given that there are many mile roads throughout the city, I thought finding the marker of the zero mile spot would be a breeze. Not as famous as I think it should be, you’ll find it if you look hard enough in the right place!
Perhaps its the sheer number of breweries that hail from Milwaukee, Wisconsin, but I definitely associate the American Midwest with beer. Detroit doesn’t disappoint on this front, with many craft breweries in the city and surrounding areas. I made it to two on my recent weekend trip – Axle Brewing Company & Batch Brewing Company – and both not only had great beer selections but some gourmet food options to give you every reason to linger.
And a cocktail scene, too.
Less expected for me was the Detroit cocktail scene, with expertly crafted cocktails that rival the best bars in London and New York. We’re talking crazy flavor combinations, house-infused spirits, and expert mixologists making your taste buds swoon. Sugar House and Standby have some great cocktails. Sit at the bar for a front row seat to the action.
Plus, it’s the only American city with all 4 major sports arenas downtown.
It may not seem like a big deal to have the major arenas all downtown, but professional sports are a huge draw, and represents an influx of money into a downtown that needs the investment. Plus, it’s an easy stroll to the various Detroit arenas. Fun fact: not intentionally, but I passed them all just strolling around!
Lots of immigrants have left their mark.
Without even seeking out ethnic neighborhoods, I encountered quite a few during my weekend in Detroit. Centrally located downtown is Greektown, which you’ll spot almost instantly by the blocks of restaurants serving up Greek cuisine. Corktown, the Irish part of the city, has plenty of restaurants and bars alongside buildings showcasing the neighborhood heritage, like the Gaelic League.
And while I didn’t make it to Dearborn, known for its Arab population and the largest mosque in North America, I knew of its prominence. You’ll also see plenty of British influence around town, from the layout of the Grand Circus to the ‘upper peninsula pasty’ on offer at local spots.
Joe Louis.
Known for being a boxing heavyweight champion for over a decade in the 1930s and most of the 1940s, Joe Louis is considered by many to be America’s first black hero, seen as a national hero and not just for the color of his skin. His physical prowess also came at a time of national unity aimed at fighting the Nazis during World War II. It is in this context that you visit the sculpture of Joe Louis’s fist in the heart of downtown, as a show of strength for the man who moved to Detroit at the start of his teenage years and achieved his successes from his time in the city.
Street art is everywhere – even parking garages have crazy artwork!
There is a lot of street art all over Detroit, but in a parking lot?!? Yes, that’s where you’ll find some of the best stuff! Head to the Gallery for the Z Project to check out winding walls of creation after creation. And keep your eyes open around town, too 😉
Canada is right there.
Before my trip I spent some time poring over the Detroit map to get acclimated, and that’s when I realized just how close Canada is – a short distance just across the river. Walking the waterfront, the expanse definitely seemed swim-able, although with boats and the bridge going across, a dip in the water wouldn’t have been necessary.
Detroit was a major outpost on the Underground Railroad.
Another item I had never heard of before this trip, Pewabic Pottery has been around for over a century and is Michigan’s only historic pottery. It’s signature glaze gives it a unique sheen, and Pewabic tiles are used locally in fireplaces, kitchen counters, and anything else you can imagine. Even if you’re not planning on a purchase, visiting the National Historic Landmark is free and you can peruse various artists’ take on the style. I couldn’t resist the appeal, and took home some Pewabic art of my own:
They sure love their Art Deco in Detroit.
A lot of historic buildings in Detroit have stood the test of time, so there are plenty of Art Deco gems lurking in easy walking distance of one another downtown, with a few further afield. Most famous are the Guardian and Penobscot Buildings, which you can see in all their fabulous glory:
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Watch out for those Michigan lefts.
I had never heard of this, but if you’re driving around Michigan, taking a Michigan left at some point is probably inevitable. It’s sort of like a u-turn, sort of like an on ramp going from the left lane of the road to the left lane heading the opposite direction. Definitely proceed with caution.
Coney dogs are a thing.
As a native Brooklynite, anything named ‘Coney’ conjures up the sights and smells of iconic New York destination Coney Island. In Detroit, ‘coney dogs’ were recommended to me again and again as a local specialty that is consumed at all times of day, and especially late night on a weekend. And depending on who you ask, hot dogs originated at New York’s Coney Island, while the ‘coney dog’ is a Michigan original, consisting of a hot dog topped with beanless chili, mustard, and chopped raw onion. Eater has a thorough take on the history and controversy of the ‘coney dog.’
Cider Mills are an autumn must do!
These weren’t on my radar before my trip, but that’s the benefit of visiting a city with locals – it was on the itinerary to go to a cider mill even before I arrived. They’ve been in Michigan since the mid-1800s and there are dozens around, many offering pony rides, petting zoos, and carnival games to entertain families with children. But the main attraction is the locally made apple cider – whether chilled, piping hot, or in slushee form – and the incredibly fresh donuts that come in original and cinnamon sugar varieties. Even if you don’t stay long, it’s worth a wait in the long line to score these goodies!
As you can tell, I ate and drank well in Detroit, while taking in some beautiful scenery and sights. There is definitely more than meets the eye, and certainly more than I expected. It felt like I was almost constantly recording brief notes with all of the fun facts about Detroit. And I didn’t even get to explore everything.
Yet another reason to get out there and explore places for yourself!
Happy Travels! Lana
What’s the most interesting thing you learned about a place while visiting? Anything fun facts about Detroit you’ve discovered? Or anything else you’d like to know before you go? Share in the ‘Comments’ below!
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Wow, 2018 turned out to be quite the travel whirlwind – filled with many travel highlights, good and bad!
Last year, I explored 2 new countries. This year I made it to 5: Denmark, Honduras, Malta, Nicaragua, and Norway.
Not that I’m so into the whole country counting thing, but I keep track every so often and realized with my recent cruise stop in Honduras, I’ve now been to 59 countries!
This year, with some strategic planning around holidays and generous leave at my full-time job, I also managed several longer trips, many of them returning to some favorite countries and cities I’ve visited before – like Belgium, Italy (where I lived for 3 years!), New Orleans, Philadelphia, and San Francisco.
Across my many trips, there were those moments that stood out for being blissful, with the stars seemingly aligning just right. There were many visually beautiful moments, meandering on a road trip through picturesque scenery or hiking through breathtaking nature. And also hilariously terrible moments when everything seemed to go incredibly wrong and I tried to recover as best I could – or at least wallow in misery and live to travel another day.
Here are some of those memorable travel experiences:
A Multitude of Travel Fails
Sure, I’m Travel Savvy Gal, but how do you think I got so savvy? By doing things wrong, of course! Sometimes repeatedly.
And with all of my travel this year, even with all the things I did do right, it inevitably didn’t *all* go according to plan.
There were the little things that I kicked myself for – not paying attention to my direction and ending up on the sunny side of the bus or train, picking the one seat without a power outlet, or somehow finding the seat with a bar underneath and no space to stow bags.
But my most panicked moment came near the start of my first two-week trip to Europe. And I hadn’t even left the US yet!
After going through security, I was sitting at the bar at one of the airport restaurants and dropped my phone. Which of course I had done dozens of time before, but this was the drop that broke my cell phone for good. But it was so close to boarding time that all I could do was take my flight completely phone-less. On top of which, I had forgotten to set an out-of-office message on my work e-mail and couldn’t complete the authentication to log in without a working cell phone! (Luckily when I arrived in Milan, where I have a lot of friends from my 3 years living there, I was able to borrow a friend’s spare smartphone for the trip – phew!)
Then somehow that carelessness was like a curse that extended through the entire trip. As that two-week European adventure in April progressed, I just was not at my best for staying on top of all my belongings.
In Belgium, after a day of exploring when I first arrived, I took a train to Antwerp to reunite with my best friend from my time in Milan, and completely walked off the train without my main luggage that I had stowed on the shelf above the seats. Luckily, Antwerp was the final stop of the train, so when I realized I had left it behind a minute later, the train was still in the station with its doors open and I was able to walk back on and fetch it.
Then, at the last destination that same trip, on my final day in Copenhagen, I lost my Copenhagen Card – which was basically my pre-paid admission to all of the local attractions and my card to access public transit. So for things like the Carlsburg Brewery tour, I had to pay again to enter. Luckily, it was only about a $20 mistake in the end, but it literally cost me.
I don’t get obsessed with a new food every time I visit a new country (I swear!) but my Copenhagen obsession started long before I landed, just by reading a description of local delicacy, smørrebrød. Sure, it’s just an open-faced sandwich – Danish-style – but there is a whole lot more that goes into the perfect bite after perfect bite that I enjoyed there.
It is color, it is texture, it is flavor. All mixed together with the Danish design sensibility that extends to many area of life in Denmark. Plus, it’s incredibly delicious. So yeah, I admit it, I’m totally obsessed.
My first big trip of 2018 was a week in Nicaragua. I was meant to visit with a friend but she had an emergency (don’t worry, everything is fine now!) and had to back out last minute. I briefly debated whether to still go, although let’s be real, being on my own has not dissuaded me from a trip yet. It just meant that it would be a slightly different trip without her company and that I needed to make some adjustments to my plan to account for not splitting expenses two ways anymore.
My biggest in-country transit was between the island of Ometepe and the town of León, and certainly the budget way to traverse the distance was by bus. Although I had taken the converted school buses known as chicken buses on other stretches, on this journey it would have involved going into the capital city of Managua, transferring buses, and leaving again on a different bus.
With the buses stopping frequently, the trip would have taken all day.
I decided that even though I was traveling solo, I would splurge on a private car transfer to the ferry and then from the ferry on the other side, to minimize how much of the day I’d lose in transit.
My lucky moment came when I approached the reception desk at my guesthouse, and I happened to ask about the trip just as a couple was making the exact same inquiry. We even were targeting the same departure time.
So instead of footing the bill alone, I got to split the ride – 3 ways!
And of course, in true travel fashion, it turned out that there was a lot to connect me and the random couple – from hearing about their home in Denver, where my sister had recently moved, to conversing in Hebrew because she turned out to be Israeli. The driver even got in on the lively conversation along the way, with me translating since I was the only person in the group who spoke Spanish.
**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists. Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**
Craziest Hiking Conditions
I like to hike. Usually with a friend, and often sandwiched in between two city sightseeing days to get some time in nature. Occasionally, I hike solo. I’ve done some serious hiking on my own, but the last time was back in 2016 on a solo weekend in Liechtenstein.
Only because I am a semi-serious hiker, had done multiple 6+ hour hikes on my own before, and had trained before the trip, did I even attempt to hike high up in a Norwegian fjord while solo in late September. Which is basically the beginning of their winter.
Despite the cold, there were a lot of fun elements of the hike, however the final section was so brutal that all four people who started out ahead of me turned back before reaching the end. At that point, I was literally alone. In the middle of nowhere. With no cell service.
At the top, with a third of the hike still remaining, the wind was merciless and there were large patches of black ice, where the rock had iced over but you couldn’t tell if it was wet or icy until you extended a tentative step. Plus, the fog had rolled in and there was barely enough visibility to see from one bright red trail marker to the next.
But I am nothing if not persistent, so while continuing to be cautious, I slowly made my way toward the famous wedged boulder known as Kjerag. As its slightly rounded top was covered in a layer of ice and show, standing on it was not possible, but seeing the spot in view was still so incredibly rewarding.
https://www.instagram.com/p/BoO5SyxFrq0/
Most Drinks Consumed
This one might be a tie. Between a cocktail crawl, giant boozy slushies, a distillery visit, and wine tasting in New Orleans (let the good times roll!) and also California wine country, where a friend and I road-tripped with just two winery reservations and still managed to squeeze in tastings at 12 wineries in basically 2 days.
In both cases, a lot of different venues were involved, and getting to sample all of the delicious concoctions was also incredibly tied to the sense of place in each location.
While in Belgium during my April trip, my main concern when picking when to take a day trip to Ghent, Belgium from my home base in Antwerp was centered in part on the weather and in part on my friend’s schedule. And I didn’t know any better, so didn’t do my due diligence until I was en route and realized just how many museums and restaurants would be closed since it was Wednesday. Which seemed awfully random but now I know and you should, too – so it featured in my blog post with tips for visiting Belgium.
In Philadelphia in the US, I thought I had done my due diligence when I found a spot with great cocktail reviews close to where I’d be exploring on Saturday afternoon of my weekend trip. After trying and failing to find this amazing bar, some closer looking led me to realize that it was a cocktail school, not a bar where I could order drinks! (Luckily, some alternate options were also nearby, and I enjoyed a great pre-dinner cocktail.)
I had briefly been to a secluded beach in the north of Haiti on a cruise with my family over a decade ago. This past February, I returned to a completely different part of the country on a work trip, splitting my time between the capital of Port-au-Prince and the northern Artibonite region. As you might imagine about a country with many travel warnings in place, security is key and was my main focus there.
What was completely unexpected was the cosmopolitan and – thanks to the many aid organizations and non-profits – thriving expat scene in Port-au-Prince. The one Friday night I spent there, I went salsa dancing! Read all about how salsa dancing in P-au-P was different than I expected in the caption below:
https://www.instagram.com/p/BflPTeRnrVl/
Best Sunsets Enjoyed
I’m not much of a morning person, so I’m far more likely to catch sunset than sunrise (other than in winter, like this recent gem spotted on my way to work). After a year of traveling, a few of these stellar sunsets stand out more than most:
I saw several great sunsets in Malta, but the one that stands out the most was spotted toward the end of a whirlwind day I later called my perfect sightseeing day. After many buses, city exploring, a wine tasting, and some coastal hiking, I swam and took in the views as I swelled with the satisfaction of a wonderful, full day of solo exploring and enjoyed the lovely colors as the sun set over the water.
As someone who loves water views, I also took *so many* pictures of sunset on my Caribbean cruise. I still think my favorite views though, were on the first night as the ship left port in Miami just as the sun was going down:
On vacation, watching sunset it usually an item on my itinerary, while at home, I often get caught up doing something without remembering to glance outside. I almost missed this boldly colored one while at home in Baltimore, but then I just happened to look out the window and see how stunning and bright this one was. Luckily I have a rooftop deck and was able to rush up there with both my phone and camera to appreciate its beauty. Plus, snap a few shots, of course.
https://www.instagram.com/p/Bj7Ix-0H3XU/
Most Unexpected Foodie City
You’re probably expecting me to list some famous city that you have heard of or been to, but may not have realized has a foodie scene.
Well, here goes: Stavanger, Norway. No, doesn’t ring a bell?
Honestly, I had never heard of Stavanger either until I realized that it was the most convenient jumping off point for all of the hiking I wanted to do in the nearby Norwegian fjord. But critical to its foodie scene is the fact that Stavanger is also an oil city and has plenty of high-paid executives that frequently dine out for business and sustain some fancy and delicious places all around town.
Norway’s first Michelin star awarded outside of Oslo was to a Stavanger restaurant back in 2016 (now there are more). And I enjoyed some of my most memorable meals of the year there.
I thought it was cutting things close when I lived in Milan and didn’t buy a ticket for a weekend trip to London until the Wednesday before a Friday afternoon flight. For the first time in my life, when I scanned my boarding pass at the gate, it beeped.
Because I had been tagged as a high security risk.
“Did you by any chance by your ticket in the last 48 hours?”
Why yes, yes I did. After breathing a sigh of relief as they confirmed the likely reason for my being flagged, the flight attendant fortunately had no problem letting me on the flight.
This year, I topped that moment.
I had planned months ahead for my Norway trip, securing a one-way evening flight to Bergen (via Stockholm) on Norwegian Air. Early afternoon the day before my flight, I started getting a series of text notifications about problems with the airplane.
Twenty texts and two hour-long phone calls later, it became apparent that my original flight would be canceled. And I’d be delayed at least one day – if not more – due to the connection I’d then miss.
So I did what any frequent traveler would do – right? I started a whole flurry of activity.
I checked with travel insurance to see what extra costs would be covered. Then I called Norwegian Air on different numbers simultaneously (one on my cell, one on Skype) to get a hold of a person as fast as possible to refund the original flight.
AND then, once my confirmation e-mail came through, I bought a completely new one-way plane ticket to Bergen on a different airline.
By the time this all got sorted out, it was so close to 24 hours before my flight departed the next day that my purchase confirmation and check-in reminder came within 10 minutes of each other!
(And just for the record, Norwegian Air’s Customer Service is excellent – My request took a month to process, but not only did they refund the cost of my original flight, they also paid me for the $300 fare difference for the last-minute flight I booked. So I never did have to make that claim with my travel insurance.)
Biggest Travel Win
A Romanian friend who has been living and working in the US quit her job to return to Europe and wanted to go on a girls’ road trip to San Francisco and nearby wine country in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. So she called me, obviously! (No arm twisting required.)
We booked flights to California three weeks in advance. As is my usual, I booked the flight, told my friend, then added us to the wait list for all 3 of the nights we’d be in wine country for the most outrageous restaurant in the region, The French Laundry. Which is considered one of the hardest reservations to get in the US (even if you book months ahead of time).
I didn’t think much of this, and had pretty much forgotten all about it by the time we started our trip.
After all, I had joined a wait list for Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy and for Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark when I visited both areas in April of this year – and didn’t hear from either restaurant. But of course you can’t get in off the wait list if you don’t even try.
So imagine my surprise when I got a call from a California number I didn’t recognize as we were wine tasting up and down the Napa Valley on Sunday afternoon.
The French Laundry has a spot for us? What?!?!??
YES, of course we want to come for dinner on Monday at the French Laundry. Most people make a dinner reservation at The French Laundry, and only *then* book a plane ticket to California. Which was the only way I thought I’d ever be able to go. Then here they were offering me a spot! (Although of course also asking me to pre-pay the $700 for two on my credit card online within the hour at a moment’s notice.)
No problem, sign us up!
In the wake of the flurry of activity securing the reservation, I felt like pinching myself to see if it was all really happening.
I’m still in such disbelief that the website confirmation of my reservation is still open in the browser on my phone 2 weeks later:
After the call and confirming our seats, my friend and I were finally grabbing some lunch in between wine tastings and just looked at each other – did that really just happen??
Those ‘pinch me, is this real?’ moments are what makes me love the travel experience and continue coming back for more. More new experiences, more elation, more crazy disappointment that sometimes is so ridiculous that it borders on the hilarious.
You need the travel blunders to appreciate the wins. Without the lows, you can’t fully appreciate the glorious highs when everything goes right. It may sound counter-intuitive, but it’s true, I promise.
I just try to be present in the moment and savor it all as it comes, grateful to be here and able to experience it all.
For more highlights from recent years, check out my previous Travel Superlatives round up posts:
What were the highlights of your travel year? And what was the craziest thing that happened to you on the road? Any place that I mentioned you’d like to see more blog posts about?
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Rock Climbing in Red Rock Canyon: Day Trip from Las Vegas, Nevada
Perfectly situated for an ideal city escape, Las Vegas has the casinos, restaurants, & attractions you’d expect, but even standing among the bright lights of the Strip you can still see the desert beyond. And fortunately, natural wonders like Red Rock Canyon are just a short drive away.
How do you escape the tourist hordes that flock from the city to Red Rock Canyon? By going rock climbing of course!
There are so many climbing spots that you can escape the main paths and get up close and personal with the red rock formations all around, and there are climbing routes for every ability level – even if you’ve never climbed before.
I knew before I even booked my trip to Vegas that I wanted to rock climb in Red Rock Canyon while I was there (I’ve been climbing over 20 years & climb whenever I can in my travels!) so sought out a guide for the day who knows the area and could provide equipment for the day.
In the end I went rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon with Mountain Skills, a small company accustomed to providing a personalized experience. They connect you with a local, knowledgeable guide whose goal is for YOU to have an incredible time.
After my rewarding full day out on the rock with guide Taylor, I can definitely say, “mission accomplished.”
Rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon
Rock climbing was the first thing I knew I wanted to do on a trip to Las Vegas – and yes, this is even before any of the casinos, restaurants, or shows on the Strip! Red Rock Canyon is stunningly beautiful, and my day rock climbing there was a definite highlight of my time in Vegas.
Of course I knew the canyon was named after the red-colored rock you find there, but I was still taken aback by how the rocks and dirt are just so red. If you’ve ever been to Australia’s ‘Red Centre,’ you know what I’m talking about. Plus, throughout Red Rock Canyon there are really interesting rock formations that extend for miles – a rock climbing dream!
It was just me and the guide rock climbing in Red Rock Canyon, so I had a completely personalized experience tailored to what I had discussed with Mountain Skills when booking the day and also with guide Taylor that morning. I did a bunch of easier long climbs, then after warming up moved on to some challenging sections.
Even though I’ve been rock climbing a long time, it’s always exhilarating when I reach the top of a climb – muscles pumped, heart racing, the satisfaction of hitting my target – and then taking a pause at the end of the climb to let my body and breathing catch up. The whole experience is magnified being outdoors in beautiful surroundings, soaking up a breathtaking view from the top.
The satisfaction of rock climbing outdoors is just as good if it’s your 1st climb or your 1,000th climb.
Of course, what goes up must come down, and I also had a blast rappelling down several of the climbs.
Usually when there is someone belaying you on the rope, that person would just lower you down. My guide, Taylor, was great about asking about whether I wanted to rappel and setting up the ropes so I could lower myself – which meant going at a speed of my choosing and also being able to stop at various points and just take in the amazing views.
Sure, it’s nice to hike around Red Rock Canyon (which plenty of visitors were doing) but there is just a different, satisfying perspective that you get hanging off the edge of a giant rock face.
When my hands were tired and my muscles were sore, I also had a chance to explore some of the red rocks on foot, and take in some pretty incredible landscapes.
And the road that runs through Red Rock Canyon is a 13-mile one-way loop, so there’s a scenic drive through the entire area on the way out at the end of the climbing day.
Why I seek out a rock climbing guide when I travel
If you were reading closely up until now, you may have caught the fact that I have been rock climbing for over two decades. Even though I started many years ago, I still enjoy it so much that I go several times a week when I’m at home.
I also seek out rock climbing when I travel as much as I can, and so far have rock climbed outside in 7 countries! (Australia, Egypt, Israel, Italy, Thailand, Vietnam, & the US for those of you keeping track.)
You might be thinking at this point – “Lana, you sure sound experienced, so why do you rock climb with a guide on the road?”
For me, there are a few factors that tip the scales. Unless I am rock climbing close to where I live with climbing buddies I trust, I always seek out a guide.
If you’re not already familiar with rock climbing, unless you engage in the nail-bitingly dangerous (and often lethal) sport of free climbing with no safety gear, you tend to climb with another person.
If you are ascending with a rope, you’ll want a skilled person on the other end of the rope to serve as your “belayer,” holding onto the rope and ready to catch you if you fall at a moment’s notice. Even if you’re “bouldering” – doing shorter sections that don’t go as high off the ground – you’ll want someone to spot you and help break your fall if needed.
My travel these days is about half solo travel and half traveling with someone else or a group. Even on those trips where I have a traveling companion, it’s very rare though that I am traveling with a fellow rock climber.
Which means I’ll need someone else to rock climb anyway. A guide.
Benefits of a guide
For me, there are a few key benefits of having a guide for outdoor rock climbing, which is why I seek out guided rock climbing in my travels again and again.
Access to the rock climbing route.
Depending on where you are in the world, it’s not always so obvious or accessible to get to the area with rock climbing routes. For climbing on an island in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam or far away from the tourist hubs in the Sinai Peninsula of Egypt or inside a cave in northern Thailand, going with a guide typically means they will transport you to what may be a hard-to-find or hard-to-access climbing locale. And you don’t have to worry about getting lost on the way!
Knowledge of rock climbing areas.
When I’ve climbed outdoors without a guide it’s only been in countries I was living in (the US and Italy) because I went often enough to be familiar with the routes or had a guidebook or went with a local friend who knew the climbing areas – or all three!
If you have a thorough guidebook with reliable information, you may be able to find climbing areas on your own, but in the end nothing beats local knowledge of climbing areas from the people who rock climb there regularly. Books can be out of date and storms can rearrange landscapes, so even with a good source, a person to serve as a guide is still the best bet.
Rock climbing equipment.
First off, if you’ve never rock climbed before or have only tried it a few times, you probably don’t have any rock climbing equipment of your own. Which is fine, because your guide can provide this!
For any frequent rock climbers out there with their own gear like me may encounter some of the other challenges I’ve faced. Several of the trips when I’ve gone rock climbing have been part of 2-4 week journeys of me backpacking around, meaning that luggage space was tight. It is both bulky and heavy to bring climbing equipment with you on the road if you’re not traveling by car. You may not want to lug it around for your whole trip.
On my most recent trip to Vegas when I climbed in Red Rock Canyon, I flew a discount carrier that only allowed one small bag of luggage. And just imagine how bulky and heavy 70 meters (over 200 feet) of rope can be!
Usually I’ll bring my own climbing shoes that I’ve already broken in – and sometimes my own harness – but leave it up to the guide to provide the majority of the gear needed for a rock climbing excursion outside.
Arranging rock climbing with Mountain Skills
As I’ve mentioned, I’ve done a fair bit of guided rock climbing in many countries, and Mountain Skills was one of my all-time easiest experiences from start to finish. It was easy to arrange through the website, the team was communicative and clear about what was needed and included, and the day itself went smoothly.
The model of Mountain Skills is to have a bunch of potential guides in all their locations, including by Red Rock Canyon, so they were able to accommodate my first choice of date. I received detailed instructions to the meeting point and about what was needed as well as prompt communication when the original guide was sick and someone else came in her place.
My office contact discussed my ability level beforehand so that my ultimate guide Taylor knew in advance which areas would be best for the day. This is the time to communicate what you’re comfortable with or interested in doing for the day, so don’t be shy!
Even if you’re not going to Las Vegas any time soon, Mountain Skills also has experienced guides in other parts of the US, like upstate New York and New Mexico, as well as international rock climbing opportunities in Mexico and Thailand.
There is the option for half-day or full-day climbing, as well as multi-pitch for more advanced climbers, with the price per person depending on the number of people in your group. Groups are kept deliberately small to give you personalized attention and keep everyone safe.
In Las Vegas, summers can get very hot, so peak rock climbing season is during the spring and fall.
For insurance reasons you need a vehicle to access Red Rock Canyon from the city, but I found it quite reasonable to rent a car for the day – and I even got a free upgrade from my basic economy option to a blue Mustang convertible.
TIP! Many hotels have car rental places inside, so even if you’re staying on the Las Vegas Strip, you may have some good nearby options for this.
TIP! If you can’t find what you’re looking for at your hotel or a nearby one, it’s a quick ride to the airport to rent a car from the wider selection there.
I had a wonderful experience and would definitely climb with Mountain Skills again, and hope to make it make to the dramatic landscapes of Red Rock Canyon for some more rock climbing!
What activities do you seek out in your travels? Have you every tried rock climbing? What gets you into the great outdoors when you’re visiting a city? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!
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Note: I received a discount in exchange for sharing my rock climbing experience with Mountain Skills on my blog. My opinions, as always, are entirely my own.
Travel Superlatives of 2017: To Inspire Your Next Adventure
This year has involved quite a lot of transitions. I started my first full-time job in quite some time (hint: it’s not blogging) and have been slowly figuring out how to balance it with my passion for blogging, travel, and you know – life, the universe, and everything!
This also marks a full year spent back in the US after five years abroad, and it hasn’t always been smooth sailing. I was shocked at how much my post on moving “home” resonated with readers, and continues to resonate with many others experiencing the same challenging transition. It is the post when I felt the most vulnerable clicking that “Publish” button, but such a lesson to me that it is when you really put your authentic self out there that you connect the most with those around you.
And that’s really what my travel superlatives come down to. It’s a collection of moments in far-flung places and spots close to home when I connected with those around me. Sometimes through an experience and sometimes a meal, but all were opportunities for wonder with some excellent company to share it all with. And a bit of adventure.
I hope you enjoy my stories from the road and perhaps even find some travel inspiration for the year ahead. Here are the moments resonating with me from the past year:
Best Nature Adventure: Belize’s ATM Cave
I love caving and adventure, plus the tour to Belize’s ATM Cave (you must be on a tour to enter) was touted by every operator as the top day trip to do from San Ignacio, Belize. The tour itself was absolutely incredible, involving plenty of strolling, swimming, and even a bit of rock climbing to navigate the internal passageways of the cave, including ancient Mayan sites. Wow, just wow.
The Dam Tour is limited to 20 people every half hour and can only be purchased in person on the day. But it is worth an early start to guarantee a spot on one of the coolest tours I’ve ever been on. Due to security concerns, the insider tour no longer includes a trip to the Power Plant floor, but in its place you get to wander behind the scenes through the inside of the dam itself in areas that were never intended for visitors. There is amazingly cool graffiti and other markings along the way, plus some killer views through vents peering from the inside out!
I spent the weekend before my birthday on a getaway to Charlottesville, Virginia, a pretty easy drive from the Baltimore/Washington, DC area. I had been a few times before and one of my fondest memories from a weekend I spent in 2007 was of a barrel tasting at a winery up a gravel road a bit outside of town. My return visit to DelFosse Vineyards a decade later was just as memorable, with a personable and delicious journey through their wine collection during the tasting. Both their whites and reds are something special. And yes, there’s still a gravel road for those last few minutes.
I’ve always liked hiking and mixed it in with my city escapes, but this is the first year that I’ve headed into some weekends with an intense desire to get out in nature – at which point I hunted down a hiking buddy or headed out on my own. Maybe it’s my mentality shifting with age, but nothing helps to reset my mind than exploring nature’s beauty with my own two feet.
Most Memorable Bites: Cambridge, MA & Charlottesville, VA
Let me start by saying that I had some pretty epic meals this year. From cooking my first-ever rack at lamb at home to savoring meals at high-end restaurants serving up 20+ course tasting menus, there have been some very delicious bites (yes, I’m a lucky lady!). But the two most memorable dishes of the year for me are the ones that were unique and flavorful and even months later stand out in my mind.
The first is a a crab and kimchi stew that I enjoyed at The Table at Season to Taste in Cambridge (Boston), Massachusetts. It was such an incredible overall (solo dining) experience that I boldly wrote a whole blog post about it as my best of 2017 all the way back in March and it still rings true all these months later.
The other most memorable dish is a crispy scallop appetizer that I enjoyed at Brasserie Saison in Charlottesville, Virginia. It doesn’t sound like all that much but it stands out in my mind both for being something I have never seen before (Crispy scallop outside and smooth-as-silk inside? Amazing!) and also because it was so perfectly executed that every bite was a piece of heaven.
I first saw Yayoi Kusama’s art in Stockholm, Sweden and was so in awe of her unique style that I waited in a crazy line to get access to another exhibit of hers this year in Washington, DC. This latest exhibition included multiple ‘infinity rooms’ that were basically giant cubes you could step into with mirrors on all sides and see incredible lights and designs reflected all around you. Check out my blog post for more on the mesmerizing art, plus details on how to get access and when this exhibit may be headed your way – in 2018 it will be in Los Angeles, Toronto, Cleveland, and Atlanta!
Best Way to Experience My New Home City: On the Water
Part of my adjustment back living stateside has been to express gratitude and focus on all of the benefits of being back after time abroad. Certainly the convenience of American life and access to ethnic food top my list, but being in the city of Baltimore specifically means that I live quite close to the water. I can walk there in around 5 minutes and there’s even a free commuter water taxi stop nearby that will take me to a few different spots across the harbor. And my running route takes me along the water’s edge by Fort McHenry, where the Star Spangled Banner (the American national anthem) was written. Some of my favorite Baltimore water views from the past year:
When you think of ‘Motor City’ you’re probably imagining car production or dangerous neighborhoods, but the Detroit of today is so much more. My highlights from a long weekend there included fancy cocktails bars, craft breweries, apple cider mills, some delicious bites, and all sorts of notable art and architecture. Detroit’s revitalization is still a work in progress, but it is already soaring and a spot I’d return to in a heartbeat!
My first flight of the year was in January to visit my dad who now lives in Florida. Of course, the primary goal of the trip was to spend some quality time together, so I specifically refrained from doing too much research. Even the lovely stroll we took through an ecological preserve was something I spotted in a brochure after I arrived, not a bucket list item I had planned in advance.
So when we ended up taking a detour to Sanibel Island, I innocently took a stroll only to encounter loads of people with buckets and walking with their eyes glued to the beach. As it turns out, Sanibel Island is considered by many to be the best shelling beach in all of North America! Even though I’m no expert, it was exciting to see so many beautiful shells and even some of the sea creatures that had washed ashore.
Favorite Getaway: Staying with Friends by the Beach
I could pretend I had some posh chalet in the mountains somewhere, but let’s be real, I’m not that fancy. The place that I spent the most weekend getaways in 2017? With friends by Bethany Beach in Delaware. It’s been a perfect haven and relaxed getaway on many a weekend, with great food and wonderful company. Thanks for hosting and for all the great experiences this year!
Most Random Visit: Berlin Wall in a NYC Office Building
When I visited Berlin, Germany for a long weekend, I of course made it a point to see several sections of what remains of the Berlin Wall, including the open-air East Side Gallery. Across the ocean in New York City, the Berlin Wall was the last thing I expected to see in a random office building, and yet there are several panels that can be visited in the lobby for free!
Biggest Bucket List Item: Rock Climbing in Red Rock Canyon
Starting with my college years, plenty of friends have talked up Las Vegas as a site for gambling and debauchery. And the ones who really know me well touted the foodie scene there. But the biggest attraction for me has always been the rock climbing I’ve been hearing about for ages in the nearby Red Rock Canyon. My guided trip there was just as wonderful as I had imagined, with incredible scenery and a lot of fun on the rock.
Best Travel Experience: Hitching a Ride on a Boat in Bermuda
I was excited at having bought the Bermuda-exclusive loquat liqueur at the Goslings store in downtown Hamilton, the Bermudian capital that was half an island away from my cruise ship. The feeling of accomplishment slowly melted into apprehension as I realized that because it was Sunday, the ferry turned out to be on a truncated schedule and the last one had already left back toward the dock where my cruise ship was anchored about 20 minutes before.
I was quite annoyed at this point – Why hadn’t I checked the schedule properly beforehand? Why didn’t I realize it was a sign taking a taxi into Hamilton from the beach was a bad idea when no one else was headed that way? – I probably should have seen the signs ahead of time, given that I’m an experienced traveler. But fortunately we had another day in Bermuda, so I wasn’t exactly in a rush. At least the cruise ship wouldn’t leave without me if I didn’t get back by a certain time.
I started running through possibilities in my head. There seemed to be a local bus station nearby, and many buses had passed through the main street downtown. Surely it would be cheap to take the route to the far side of the island, although the trip might take a while and who knows how long it would be before the next bus. A taxi was an option, but probably a $60 one. So it wouldn’t be a cheap mistake, but at least I’d make it back to the ship for dinner.
One consolation was that I wasn’t alone, there were actually 4 of us from the cruise strip stranded at the now-closed ferry terminal. But as possibly the most assertive one of the bunch, I was tasked with asking around and trying to figure out our best option to get back.
It was at this point that I noticed a boat crew at the far side of the dock that seemed to be cleaning up for the night. There was a decent chance they were locals and could hopefully point us in the right direction, maybe even let us know if buses were still running or if our best bet was to hail a taxi to get back.
I couldn’t tell you exactly what I said in my first thirty seconds of talking, but the guy who seemed to be the head of the crew approached as I was chatting with one of the deck hands and said, “Actually, we have to get this boat back over to the Dockyard for a tour in the morning, do you want a lift back?”
What?!? By opening myself up and asking strangers for help did I really just score all of us a free ride back to our cruise ship?
“As long as you don’t mind loud music and will buy drinks on the way, you can ride back with us.”
Um, YES PLEASE.
The older couple in the group was a bit skeptical if this was some sort of scam, but this was not only super convenient and generous, the crew explained that this was what your typical everyday Bermudian hospitality was all about. Plus, they were headed that way anyway.
Within minutes we had dark-and-stormy’s in hand (the local cocktail) and were cruising through the harbor on a catamaran with music blasting. I would have called it the best private boat tour of my life, but it was just locals helping out some clueless tourists and letting loose at the end of a long work shift.
Along the way, the crew pointed out a few famous Bermudian houses on the water, but mostly we sang and danced together the whole way. We pulled up and docked just a short distance from the cruise ship, as the catamaran was part of an organized tour the next morning. And when we tried to pay for our drinks, they just shrugged and wished us well.
This is how close the catamaran got us to the cruise ship.
What were some of your highlights from the past year? Or your most memorable travel experience? Anything from my round-up that you’ll seek out in the year ahead? Let me know in the ‘Comments’!
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>Lonely Planet Australia book, and immediately circled that part of the entry and knew I’d find a way to make the tour happen during my few days in Sydney. Luckily, not only was the tour available, but we ended up being the only two people and got a very personalized experience.
