Lana @TravelSavvyGal, Author at Travel Savvy Gal

8 Foods You Must Try in Singapore

March 14, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Singaporeans are all about the food! Many say that eating (and arguing about the best restaurant or hawker stand for a particular food) is a national pastime, making Singapore a great foodie destination or perfect for anyone who just loves to eat. Singaporeans take their food pretty seriously, which you can get a bit of a sense of from one of my top books to inspire travel. Of course you’ll understand much better when you enjoy the delicious result that comes from a culture that is so culinarily inclined.

This also means that when you search the internet for what foods to try while you’re visiting Singapore, you’ll have the experience that I did – finding website after website with suggestions of specific dishes, some with lists of 30 items or more. Unless you’re moving to Singapore, you’ll need a much smaller list of typical dishes to reasonably be able to sample during your visit. Even more so if you’ll only have a layover to explore. But not to worry, over my week there I worked my way through a ‘To Eat’ list and am now sharing with you my top foods to seek out while you’re there. Of course, this is all in consultation with my friends (including some native Singaporeans) who were generous enough to take me around and make sure I ate well during my visit. Which seems to be the very serious responsibility of any Singaporean host: making sure the guest eats well.

The culinary landscape in Singapore is focused on a lot of hawker stands, meaning open market areas with plenty of food stalls, each with one or a few specialties they’ll serve. For many of the dishes I mention below, you could enter nearly any market in Singapore and find a tasty version. There are also plenty of sit-down restaurants that will provide longer dining experiences, and of course be just as delicious.

Here is a doable Foodie Bucket List for your time in Singapore:

Carrot Cake

This Singaporean specialty does not resemble the moist orange cake with cream cheese frosting in the least. Carrot cake in Singapore is closer to the radish cake you may be familiar with from eating dim sum or yum cha. It comes two ways: white and black. The white version is savory and fried with egg like an omelette, while the black version is sauteed with soybeans and somewhat sweet like the Thai noodle specialty pad see ew. I didn’t want to have to choose, so I ordered from a hawker stand where I could get both versions on the same plate. Which did I like better? I couldn’t decide, so alternated my bites between the two.

Where I enjoyed it: Telok Ayer market, close to the Marina Bay Sands hotel and Gardens by the Bay, although I later walked past some great looking versions of carrot cake in Chinatown as well

Char Kway Teow

Many countries have some sort of peasant food dish that packed a lot of calories into a small plate, ideal for utilizing leftovers and keeping manual laborers well fed. This rice noodle stir fry dish is the Singaporean version, also claimed by some of its neighbors. The version I saw most often in Singapore used pork as the protein and also typically included egg and bean sprouts, although the other vegetables varied in the different interpretations of the dish.

Where I enjoyed it: Straits Kitchen, which is a good place to sample many Singaporean specialties because it’s a buffet, especially if you have limited time in country. While the dish is typically made with pork, this buffet is halal so offers a non-pork version.

Chili Crab

This was the first item that was on my ‘To Eat’ list for Singapore, as my sister’s top notable bite when she visited. The whole crab is cooked in a deliciously spicy umami bomb of flavor, which keeps you coming back for more as you enjoy each chunk of crab. Eating is a messy business, but the flavor is so delicious you’ll want some sort of bread or rice to absorb the goodness of the sauce as you eat.

Where I enjoyed it: No Signboard Seafood, although do research into which of their locations you frequent, as some branches have more consistently good food than others. I also hear great things about Long Beach Seafood (which is actually next to where I enjoyed fish head curry – see below)

Fish Head Curry

Like the cultural mix that is Singapore itself, fish head curry is considered to be a cross between an Indian curry and the Chinese delicacy of eating a fish head. While seeing the fish’s eyes staring back at you may give you pause, the rich fish cheeks are to be savored, especially along with the curry sauce.

Where I enjoyed it: Samy’s Curry, close Singapore’s Botanic Gardens

Hainanese Chicken Rice

Although named after a Chinese province, it is believed that this dish really was created in Singapore by Chinese immigrants. The chicken is slow poached and then served sliced, with or without the skin. It is the texture and flavor imparted to the chicken during the cooking process that makes this basic-sounding dish so unique and delicious.

Where I enjoyed it: Boon Tong Kee, which started out as a food stall and now is a sit-down restaurant

Laksa

The story of this dish’s origin varies, but the important thing is that it is beloved by Singaporeans and claimed as their own. Laksa is a soup version of a coconut-based Asian curry, with rice noodles and various types of seafood to soak up the broth that is a perfect balance of salty, spicy, sweet, and sour notes.

Where I enjoyed it: 328 Katong Laksa, a Bib Gourmand pick for great value in the inaugural Michelin Guide for Singapore

Satay

Satay is grilled meat on a skewer, with the types of meat varying by the place. I love getting an assortment of meats, all of which impart a different flavor as you dip it in the typical peanut sauce served alongside. You’ll smell the aromas of the meat wafting toward you from many hawker stalls, although you’ll get authentic versions pretty much anywhere in Singapore.

Where I enjoyed it: Lantern Rooftop Bar at the Fullerton Hotel, overlooking the marina

Singaporean Breakfast

I can’t stop raving about Singaporean breakfast, so much so that I wrote an entire blog post about it, which you can check out here. The typical local breakfast involves Singaporean coffee (they roast the coffee beans in butter!) along with kaya toast and soft-boiled eggs. The kaya spread is basically a coconut jam, but its sweetness is a great contrast to the eggs made savory with soy sauce sprinkled over top. Eat this every day you’re in Singapore!

Where I enjoyed it: Several places you can read about in my blog post, although my favorite spot for the quality of its kaya spread was Killiney Kopitiam, which has several branches across Singapore

What is your favorite local food in Singapore? Anything I missed that you think should also be on this short list? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below.

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The Day Trip from Rome I Can’t Recommend Enough: Orvieto

March 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 20 comments

Italy is blessed with many picturesque hilltop towns, and I’ve been to many, but Orvieto is one of the best for its sweeping views of the surrounding valley and incredible history and beauty of the attractions in town.

It’s an easy day trip from Rome by train, which is how I visited. Even gazing up at the walled town from the bottom of the funicular when you arrive, Orvieto is distinctive and breathtaking, and doesn’t disappoint when you ascend to the top.

READ MORE: Where to Eat in Rome

My favorite day trips in Italy in general involve having enough interesting sights to fill the time (although not too many to be overwhelming), beautiful views, and great food options.

Orvieto has all of this, and millenia of history that is visible seemingly everywhere you turn. Read on for all of the wonderful attractions I was able to squeeze into my single day there.

Things to Do

Around Town

Duomo (Cathedral)

One of the more stunning cathedrals I’ve seen in all of Italy, the Orvieto Duomo is the main draw to the city for many.

The outer facade is incredibly intricate, mixing different styles of sculpture, mosaics, and design. Its beauty is evident when you first venture inside as well, in particular visiting the frescoes of the adjacent San Brizio chapel.

Orvieto Underground

If you read my Naples Cheat Sheet, you know that I find underground passageways intriguing.

This is especially dramatic in Orvieto, as the underground rooms and passageways extend underneath nearly the entire city, dating back to several hundred years before Christ. Of course, you’ll only see a section of the underground areas on the approximately hour-long tour that begins close to the Duomo, but these include areas for raising pigeons and the location of the olive press, with beautiful views over the valley.

Torre del Moro (Moro Tower)

It’s worth climbing the tower’s 250 steps for the views at the top across Orvieto and the surrounding countryside, and the tower is located right in town. On the September day when I visited, there were quite a lot of bugs milling about at the top, but walk around to find a comfortable viewing spot as they tend to congregate toward just one side of the viewing platform.

Church of Sant’Andrea

The church itself is nice and includes a distinctive multi-sided bell tower, but the real treasure is its extensive underground to see with a guide.

It is well worth the extra fee for the friendly, bilingual tour guide who walks you through the history underneath the main level, including fabulous mosaics and ancient roads.

Pozzo della Cava

A series of caves with history going back nearly 3,000 years, this attraction is privately owned and very tourist-friendly with explanatory signs in several languages.

I found it helpful to visit after the ‘Orvieto Underground’ tour, which helped me put into better context some of the areas I was seeing. And be sure to pop into the restaurant, stand on the clear section of plexiglass in the floor, and look down if you dare.

Off the Beaten Path

Church of San Giovenale

The church is Orvieto’s oldest and contains some beautiful artwork. It’s worth stopping into on this end of town, which is a lovely area to explore on foot.

Town Walls

Orvieto is a walled city on a hill, and some of the best views you’ll have of the surrounding valley is by strolling across them on foot.

Communal Gardens of Orvieto

I strolled into this site right by the funicular by accident, but was so glad I did because it offers lookout points and great views of the valley below Orvieto.

This was one of the few spots in town where I saw more locals than tourists.

TIP! The opening hours change by season, so be sure to leave enough time at the beginning or end of your day to spend some time here.

Pozzo di San Patrizio

This well was constructed as a backup water source in the 1500s when Pope Clement VII was hiding out in Orvieto.

Today it’s a beautiful architectural remnant from that period located on the other side of the funicular than the Communal Gardens, behind the remains of an Etruscan Temple.

Where to Eat – Best Bites

Duca di Orvieto

I had done a bunch of research about restaurants in town serving the local fare, and even walked past a few and checked out their menus on my walk into the center, but somehow I overlooked this restaurant that is the single place I’d recommend to anyone visiting.

How did this restaurant make such a deep impression on this self-proclaimed foodie?

Well for one, a lot of their recipes are from local families dating back to the 1500s!! (No, that is not a typo. When was the last time you dined on 16th-century specialties?)

A lot of the dishes take many hours or even days to prepare, so you’ll be hard-pressed to find them anywhere else in town. And the result is incredibly rich and delicious.

I enjoyed a local pasta cooked in red wine for many hours and a beef dish slow cooked with pears and nothing else.

The locals know that this is the spot to go, as I was the only non-Italian on my visit, and even the local police officers took their lunch break here.

Definitely not to be missed! If you’re not sure what to order, rest assured, the staff is wonderful and will steer you in the right direction.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

If you are coming to Orvieto as a day trip from Rome, your best bet is to arrive by train. There are many trains making the journey, so you’ll have several choices to find the schedule that works best for you.

I definitely recommend getting an early start if you can, so you can maximize the time you’re in Orvieto during tourism hours.

You can search for trains between ‘Roma’ and ‘Orvieto’ on TrenItalia’s English website here, including the cost and traveling time for each option.

So your transiting goes smoothly, there are a few things to keep in mind:

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! There is always the danger of a train strike (sciopero) in Italy, and these happen more often than you’d think. Ask at your accommodations or do an internet search before choosing which day you’ll visit Orvieto.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Most trains from Rome to Orvieto leave from platforms at the far end of the station, so leave extra time to walk there to avoid missing your train.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! As the day goes on, trains can become progressively more delayed, so you may want to see when you’re ready to leave the city before committing to a timed train ticket.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! When you arrive in Orvieto, you will be in the lower part of town while the main attractions are all on the hilltop. Fortunately, the funicular station is immediately across the street from the Orvieto train station, and it runs relatively frequently, so you’ll never be waiting for long in either direction.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! If you’re planning on a full day in Orvieto, take a picture of the return funicular schedule, especially if there’s a specific train you’re trying to catch back to Rome in the evening.

I spent a really delightful day in Orvieto and felt like I had pretty thoroughly explored the town in that time.

It would certainly be a good spot to make a home base for a few days as well, and I met some tourists who were doing just that, with leisurely days sightseeing in town and on other days driving a rental car to other nearby attractions and wineries.

However you fit it into your Italy itinerary, this is a spot that is definitely worth a visit!

Any sights in Orvieto that I missed? What other day trips from Rome would you recommend?

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What It’s Like Moving Back “Home” After Living Abroad & Tips on How to Adjust

March 7, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 69 comments

They say that the hardest adjustment for an expat is moving back “home” after living abroad. They’re not wrong.

I studied and volunteered in Israel for a year after high school, and was surprised that after 18 years of living and growing up in the United States, and only 1 year of living in Israel, I came home with culture shock. Of course, I wondered how it was possible that I could feel so out of place in America, yet I noticed it when the food didn’t taste how I expected and also when shopping for a few things at the supermarket (why is this always such a salient cultural adjustment?) when I felt the urge to elbow everyone out of way in the aisles with an impatient Israeli s’licha. It was the food and culture, the words of Hebrew I was accustomed to interjecting into my everyday English conversation, and the flow of my daily and weekly routine.

Of course, that effect has been significantly amplified after the past 5 years living abroad in Australia and Italy and now being back in the US, living in Baltimore, Maryland. I’ve now been back around two months, but the adjustment has been a challenge, and this is the first time I’m feeling comfortable enough discussing it to write about it for the blog.A fellow expat in Milan, who’s done a fair bit of moving around over the years, counseled me that I should focus on the positives about the move. Because the negatives will be glaringly obvious and I’ll realize them quickly anyway, but the upsides might be harder to come by in the midst of the adjustment. Here’s what I’ve discovered…

The Good

The biggest, most obvious upside for me about moving back to the US is being closer to friends and family. Already since being back I’ve been able to celebrate the holidays with my family, make it out for a friend’s birthday in New York, and be there in person for my grandmother’s 90^th birthday. Slowly I’ve been taking trips to see friends I haven’t spent quality time with in ages. Last-minute group dinners that I organized when I was an expat just back for a visit have been replaced by one-on-one time catching up with people. It’s been a refreshing change to have time for deep conversations and not just a quick catch-up when I see friends and loved ones.I’m also really excited about the professional opportunity, aka being able to have a full-time job again. While I did work full-time in Australia, I barely even looked for full-time work in Italy, instead cobbling together different paid and volunteer opportunities to keep me occupied and engaged. Because the economy is struggling so much in Italy, any full-time work I might have found would have likely involved long hours and not great pay. Plus, not having a full-time work obligation left me flexible to travel at the last minute when the opportunity arose and be an engaged hostess when visitors came from abroad to visit. However, being back in the US I am looking forward to the structure and routine of full-time work, and the chance to impact urban education, one of my passions.

Another upside of America? Convenience. American life is very much about convenience, from pre-packaged ingredients and meals at the supermarket to one-stop shopping at mega-stores that have clothes, food, and toiletries all under one roof. For me, it’s also the convenience of knowing where to go to buy things. Even in Australia where I hypothetically spoke the language (minus the many Aussie abbreviations and slang), the store names were mostly unfamiliar. You’re not going to find US supermarket chains or clothing stores, so figuring out *where* to go to purchase a particular item could be just as time-consuming as the shopping trip itself. Of course, living in Italian in Milan posed the same challenge, exacerbated by the fact that many stores are local and don’t have an online presence, so sometimes the best way to find a specific item is by keeping your eyes open as you walk through different neighborhoods and popping into the first store you walk past that sells what you need. It sounds old-school, but that is the reality of life in Italy.

Speaking of convenience, an upside about American life that I realized even before leaving Milan is laundry. More specifically, having a dryer! Yes, darling readers, it’s true. Most Italian homes have a washer, but no dryer. What does doing laundry in Italy involve? Running a load through the washer, hanging it on a drying rack, and then waiting 24 hours for it to dry before doing your next load. Unless it’s winter, in which case the clothes may take even longer to dry. Laundry in Italy involved a lot of strategizing. If I had three or four loads to do in advance of weekend guests, the process would start on Monday. Really. So yes, having access to both a washer and a dryer living back in the US may sound shallow, but for any recently returned expat is a big deal. I can do more than 1 load in a day! And they’ll both be dry within hours! Having dry (and fluffy) laundry never made a gal so happy =)

Another adjustment, and certainly a positive one – everyone speaks your language! In my first few weeks back, I found myself consciously noticing as I walked down the street that everyone who passed was speaking English. I would think, “how weird,” before realizing that I was back in the US and this was in fact normal and expected to be walking down the street and overhearing English conversations constantly. Living in English again meant that there was no hesitation or much thought involved before I would engage in small talk or strike up a conversation waiting in line or with a cashier or store clerk, a level of comfort you never quite reach living in a foreign language.

Visiting the US as an expat, I would always take advantage of all the ethnic food that is available, most of which is absent or not that great in Italy. Now back living here, I know that quality ethnic food is widely available, from Chinese to Mexican to Thai to Ethiopian. And you can believe that I’ve been savoring all of the opportunities to take advantage of the access.And if you’ve seen my posts on wineries – in the Piedmont region of Italy or Israel – or even posts that involve wine tastings (like my overviews of Liechtenstein or Plovdiv, Bulgaria), you may have guessed that I had a fair few bottles of wine from around Europe that I brought back to the US when moving. What you may not realize is that there already were a few cases of wine waiting for me in the US, mostly from California and Australia, acquired before moving to Italy. Because they are bottles that I knew would age well, and frankly, it just seemed silly to ship wine *to* Italy. It’s been a lovely trip down memory lane to remember past travels by enjoying wine I acquired there.

The Bad

I know, I know, I put the good things first, so it sounds like roses and confetti to move back to the US and take advantage of all the opportunities and conveniences the country has to offer. But as much as there is to be grateful for, there are definitely downsides that I have been feeling quite acutely these past months.

There are a lot of things that I’ve been missing since moving back. First and foremost, I miss my Milan friends. I was very fortunate to have met so many incredible people during my 3 years living in Milan, and I actually had a much easier time making friends in Italy than in Australia, even outside of the expatriate community. Since Milan is the business center of Italy, I found that many interesting Italians from all over the country ended up in Milan for work, as well as the city attracting people in many professions from all over Europe and the rest of the world. It felt relatively easy to form deep connections and friendships, and I miss all of the people I used to be able to see on a regular basis and who are now an ocean and a six-hour time difference away.

I also am missing the city of Milan and life in Italy quite tangibly and still daily. When I walk out my front door, I no longer have the stunning Italian architecture to greet me. I don’t stroll past the Last Supper on a nearly daily basis or pass one of the five largest cathedrals in the world on my walk to Italian lessons. Plus, the Italians have a way of savoring everyday pleasures, from a quick cup of espresso to gelato to an evening aperitivo.

Speaking of which, I really miss all of the food and drink I was able to access living in Italy. Coffee is an integral part of the Italian day, and the entire country is set up so that you can pop in for a 1 Euro (or less) espresso anywhere you are, any time of day. Here in America, if I’m out and feel like a coffee, I’m hard pressed to find a proper espresso and it will cost at least a few dollars even for a single shot. Plus, I can’t necessarily find one when the mood strikes. And even though I brought back quite a few Italian cooking supplies, like carnaroli rice for risotto and “00” flour for fresh pasta-making, the quality of the produce in the US is not as good and so dishes don’t taste nearly as delicious as they did there. When it’s the early evening and I’m feeling like an aperitivo drink, it’s a much costlier endeavor than it ever was in Italy. In Milan, I could buy a decent bottle of Prosecco for 3 Euro at the local supermarket in Italy, but am hard-pressed to find a bottle for under $15 in the US. The same goes for my favorite ingredient to make a spritz – Aperol. For a bottle that would be about $8 in Italy, I’m now paying $25! So while my instinct is to preserve life in Italy as much as possible living back in the US, it’s just not financially reasonable to keep the identical habits without at least some practical adjustments.One thing I didn’t realize before moving to Milan, but really came to appreciate, was the travel accessibility. With 3 airports, there are a ton of direct flight options from Milan all over Europe, including several discount carriers like Easy Jet and Ryan Air. Even at the last minute, I could reliably find round-trip airfare for under 100 Euros, and sometimes for significantly cheaper. And Milan is so centrally located that there are plenty of cities and towns within a short train ride or a drive of an hour or two, including a lot of Switzerland. And even small towns in Italy have so much to offer that it’s well worth a trip, even for a day. It’s just not quite the same back in the US, and even a weekend away is much costlier than what I’ve become accustomed to in Milan.

Another thing that I’ve been missing that I hadn’t anticipated – speaking Italian. I lapse into Italian often when I’m with a fellow speaker, and on my few flights I’ve had I find myself seeking out the Italian language movies. Being in the US I’ve actually been exposed to a lot of Spanish since being back (which I also speak), but it has just made me feel the loss of being so distant from Italian. I’ve been doing a lot of reading in English lately, but my next books to tackle will some of the ones in Italian I brought back with me, because I am just missing the lilting language as part of what I hear and absorb every day.

The Bizarre

When I first thought about writing this post months ago, I figured that there would be good things and also some negatives about moving back “home.” What I didn’t anticipate was quite a few items that didn’t really fit either category, but was just an oddity of the experience of being an expat living abroad for many years and then returning back to my native country.

As you read above, I always seem to have trouble in supermarkets. I’m not sure what it is, but that for me seems to be one of the venues where every culture and nationality handles the experience differently, and I become acclimated wherever I live. This wasn’t just an issue after my time in Israel, but something I noticed after living in Perth, Australia (where did all the Asian produce go?) and have certainly noticed over the past couple of months being back from Milan. There are some of the practical details that I’ve struggled to remember. Like how in Italy you need to code and weigh your produce on your own, printing out the sticker with the bar code from the scale in the produce section and affixing it before you reach the checkout line. While in the US the cashier knows and enters the code, or you look it up yourself in the self-checkout lane. Or that there are so many food items on the shelves at American supermarkets that I forgot existed and find myself craving. Not because I want to eat them necessarily, but simply because I haven’t seen them in ages and now I *can* have them. Like Oreo cookies, for one.

Another oddity of moving back has been the food I gravitate toward cooking at home. In Milan, cooking at home involved a lot of ethnic food, making versions of favorite dishes that were better than what I could find in a restaurant locally. Thai curries, Korean rice bowls, fish tacos (with homemade tortillas), and Chinese stir-fries were all in heavy rotation in my Milan kitchen. Now back in the US? I’ve been cooking a lot of authentic Italian dishes, and haven’t even braved going out to an Italian restaurant yet, even though Baltimore actually has a decent-sized Italian population and its own ‘Little Italy.’ One day I’ll muster up the courage, but for now I’m enjoying making my own Italian food, knowing I won’t be disappointed with the resulting meal.

And when it’s time to order food for delivery, especially for ethnic dishes I no longer feel compelled to cook on my own, I don’t even know the current apps and websites to do this. Although I never actually ordered food in the whole time living in Milan, I knew the European apps that were out there – Deliveroo, Foodora, JustEat. Being back in the US was initially baffling and involved a bunch of asking around to figure out that for food I could use GrubHub, OrderUp, or UberEats to get food to show up at my door. In the 5 years I’ve been gone, the landscape has changed quite a bit, and is another one of those weird adjustments you don’t expect needing to learn.

And even though I’ve been living and shopping in the US for a couple of months now, there are still signs all over the house that I’ve just moved back from a posting abroad. There are still plenty of household items that are in a foreign language (like the dish soap, for one). Things that were purchased in Italy and now are part of the things I see daily that are reminders of no longer being in Milan. And I’ve seen it in the homes of other expats who’ve recently returned home – those reminders of the life you left behind.It’s also weird that it’s not just instant acclimation back into an old life. For you, the expat, it feels like you should just be slotting back into your previous life since you’re now back and everyone is excited to have you nearby. The reality? You arrange an initial meet-up with friends, but as other gatherings crop up – kids’ birthday parties & nights out – friends are liable to forget that you are now around and you only find out about events after the fact.

Tips on How to Adjust

So, what is a recently-returned expat to do? What steps have I been taking that I’ve found have helped with the adjustment back “home”? How do I manage all of the changes and gaps in my day-to-day life? I’m not an expert by any means, but here are a few things that I’ve found helpful over the last two months.

Connecting with old friends. Some days it may feel like you know no one, but the reality of course is never that severe. Sure, you may need to do a lot of the initiating at first, but there are definitely old friends in the area that will want to spend time with you, even if it’s been a while. What I love about close friendships is that even after much time and distance apart, you can get together and practically pick up right where you left off. And it’s important to make it a priority to see people. For me, that has meant some day trips and a weekend spent in Washington, DC where I lived for nearly a decade and have a strong friend base. During that time I’ve been able to hang out with some of my oldest friends and feel a bit more connected to life in the US again.

Finding new social circles. Let’s face it, after time living abroad, you’re not exactly the same person you were when you last left home. And even if you haven’t changed much when it comes to things that matter, your community is not the same as when you left. Friends have moved away or had children and aren’t likely to have as much free time as you do when you first return. Since moving back to the US I have been active on Facebook and Meetup to find other former expats and like-minded people to connect with. So far I’ve joined a book club, found buddies for rock climbing, and reached out to a group that sees live theater locally. I’ve even found some Italians in the area. My social calendar is certainly not full, but it’s been a great feeling to find people in my new city with shared interests.

Finding the things that keep me grounded and give me a sense of continuity or normalcy, and focusing on those. For me, the biggest thing that has helped to keep me grounded since the move is this blog! I’m still an internet connection away from a lot of the friends I’ve made through blogging, so it feels like nothing has changed in that respect. And I know that putting effort into Travel Savvy Gal – writing posts, becoming more active on social media, attending webinars about blogging – will not be wasted. I can see the tangible results of my hard work, from a larger Instagram following to Twitter re-tweets and increased website views. For my mental and emotional sanity, I’ve sought out rock climbing (my biggest stress reliever) and seeing live theater, an activity that deeply nourishes my soul. It gives me that extra bit of a boost that sustains me on the rougher days. And when you’re least motivated to seek out a pick-me-up, that’s of course when you need it the most.

Having low to no expectations. Things that can be most disappointing are those times when you expect things to go a certain way, and then reality doesn’t live up to your preconceived notions. The best way to combat disappointment? Don’t start off with expectations. Of course, that’s easier said than done, but starting from a blank slate means that everything you get from that point forward is something extra and unexpected. I’ve been trying my best over the past two months to keep an open mind about each day, and then appreciating the good things that come my way.

Focusing on what I’ve gained, not what I’ve lost. I’ve talked before on the blog about practicing gratitude, and I really believe it has the power to be transformative. When you spend time at the end of each day thinking about the things you are grateful for, it means that the following day your brain is on the lookout for things to appreciate for the following night’s round-up. The brain is a muscle like any other in the body, and can be trained to seek out the positive parts of your day, every day. While there have certainly been many frustrating moments, I am still incredibly fortunate to have had the opportunity to live abroad and experience other cultures, and now have the time to integrate back into American life while still working on the blog and sharing my travel tips and experiences, something I’ve found incredibly rewarding these past several months.

What’s next?

Well, the first order of business for me is finding a job. Unfortunately that means that most travel planning is on hold for the moment, although I do have a few weekends away planned. I’m also hoping to attend some upcoming travel blogger conferences – one in the US and one overseas – but again, I haven’t made any exact plans yet. Of course, the inability to plan while I’m in limbo has contributed to my overall frustration, but I’m trying to take everything in stride and focus on the positives.

And although I haven’t found a full-time job yet, I am admittedly nervous about the small number of vacation days that come with many US jobs. Sometimes it can be as little as 2 weeks, compared with the 6 weeks I received working in Australia that is common in Europe as well. Again, this is a wait-and-see situation, and I’m putting a lot of trust in the universe – and putting forth much effort – so that things will turn out well in the end.

The other question you’re probably wondering is what this means for the blog. For now certainly, things will carry on as usual with Travel Savvy Gal. I don’t know about you, but I certainly can’t job hunt and write cover letters for 8 straight hours a day, so I’ve been interspersing blogging activities with my job hunting. There will still be posts every Tuesday and Thursday, so continue keeping an eye out for that and show your love in the Comments.

Of course, I’ll be keeping you wonderful readers updated if and when anything changes. I was an avid traveler before becoming an expat and living abroad (when I was working full-time in the US) and I will be an avid traveler again being back here. In the meantime, I’m taking deep breaths through this transitional time and working on making the most of the days that I am able to travel at the moment. And there’s plenty of destinations I’ve traveled recently and haven’t written about yet, so those will be coming to a blog post near you sometime very soon.

For anyone who’s had to make a big living adjustment or also moved home after time abroad, what was it like for you? What things were the biggest help as you were getting re-acclimated? I’m still in the process myself, so any additional tips or intel would be greatly appreciated!

Insider Bucket List – 20 Top Experiences to Seek Out in Israel

March 3, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Many people travel to Israel as religious pilgrims, but this tiny country on the Mediterranean has so much to offer every type of traveler. From outdoor adventure to Roman ruins to burgeoning boutique wineries to relaxing beach days, there is a seemingly endless list of attractions and superlatives to seek out. You can treat this post as a bucket list, or merely as a starting point to get a sense of all of the ways to spend your visit to Israel, and then decide on which ones appeal to you most or work with your time limitations.

This list is compiled from the top experiences that stand out for me, after my time living in Israel and my recent return visits. I am a bit of an eclectic, so you’ll see different aspects of my foodie, nature-loving, history-enthralled self coming through. Enjoy!

#1 | Jersualem’s Old City.

There are millenia of history in the layers of Jerusalem stone, and there have been enough excavations over the years that you can literally walk in the footsteps of history. The Old City, despite its small size, contains some of the holiest sites of the world’s three main monotheistic religions: Christianity, Judaism, and Islam. And the historical remnants abound – yours to discover as you wander on foot or take part in an organized itinerary. Check out my top picks for what to do in Jerusalem here.

#2 | Eat your way around a market.

Produce in Israel tastes incredible because it is just so fresh. It was only when I lived here that I started eating tomatoes and many other fruits and vegetables because it just tastes so much better from the markets. Markets also have plenty of vendors selling prepared food products, including many of Israel’s local specialties. Even the smallest Israeli town will have a market at least a couple of days a week, so ask wherever you go. Top markets to visit include Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem or Carmel Market in Tel Aviv.

#3 | Cosmopolitan Tel Aviv.

Tel Aviv feels much like any bustling European city, and it will probably remind you of some when you visit. Sheinkin Street is a great shopping destination with some funky stores and plenty of nearby restaurants and cafes to refuel. On Tuesdays and Fridays, my favorite craft market is held all day on block after block of the pedestrian street Nahalat Binyamin – it’s a great place to pick up souvenirs or treat yourself. I still wear a ring I purchased here in the 1990s daily. And of course, there is the cafe culture of Tel Aviv to soak up. Linger as the Israelis do, drinking coffee, grabbing a light bite to eat, and catching up with friends or work leisurely on your laptop. Rothschild Boulevard is a popular spot for outdoor cafes and people watching, including the beloved cafe at Rothschild 12 and you can check out some other top recommendations from Israeli newspaper Ha’aretz here.

#4 | Old Port City of Jaffa.

On the southern side of Tel Aviv lies this ancient port city, which for me is all about wandering and exploring. Take in the views overlooking the sea and Tel Aviv’s beach, stroll through the HaPisga Gardens, wander the narrow passageways and pop into artist’s studios along the way, and explore the antique offerings at the local flea market. There are also some great restaurants overlooking the water and some trendy bars that have opened recently.

#5 | Baha’i Gardens in Haifa.

One of the two holiest sites for the Baha’i religion is in Haifa, a dramatic series of terraced gardens leading up to a Temple. Entrance is free and the gardens are open 7 days a week except holy days, although some of the interior gardens close at noon. The city of Haifa hasn’t always wowed me, but this is is one thing worth traveling to Haifa to seek out.

#6 | Beaches.

Israel has a whole coast of beach possibilities, from the one essentially in downtown Tel Aviv to some of the more secluded options further from the cities. Definitely build some down time into your trip to go and enjoy the warm Mediterranean waters and the beach scene. And if you make it to Herzliya, definitely check out their beach’s main attraction – a hermit house built from discarded materials that has been around since the 1970s.

#7 | Play sheshbesh at a bar or cafe.

In the US, people gather at parks to play a game of chess – in Israel, they gather at bars and cafes to play sheshbesh, which you may know better as backgammon. If you’re not from the Middle East, you may not have grown up playing backgammon, but in Israel it is all the rage. Many bars and cafes will have playing sets available, and it is definitely the local pastime. Often enjoyed in conjunction with some flavored tobacco smoked from a water pipe, known locally as hoookah or nargila or shisha, it’s a way to experience life like a local for an afternoon or evening.

#8 | Enjoy a Traditional Shabbat.

For religious Jews, Shabbat (the Sabbath) is a day when time stands still, lasting from sundown Friday until sundown Saturday. You don’t use electricity or cell phones, but take the time to pray and enjoy time with friends and family. It’s a great escape or digital detox for a day, and is worth seeking out a way to enjoy a Shabbat in Israel, whether it means attending a synagogue service or sharing a traditional meal with locals.

#9 | Bargain at the shuk.

The shuk, or market, is a central part of shopping and eating for many Israelis. In addition to food, there are plenty of household items for sale plus souvenirs for any type of tourist, from t-shirts to jewelry to spices to hand-carved chess or backgammon (sheshbesh) sets. Of course, this being the Middle East, you don’t want to simply accept the first price that is offered. Haggling is expected, and it is at its most dramatic in this country of bargaining experts.

#10 | Check out the Natural Grottoes at Rosh Hanikra.

Rosh_Hanikra_(12276775196) Israel — Image: sunshinecity via Wikimedia Commons

Located atop steep cliffs at the Israel-Lebanon border on the Mediterranean coast, Rosh Hanikra is also the site of a series of natural sea grottoes. From the visitor’s center you can descend in a cable car and explore the area of the grottoes on foot, taking in the natural landscape.

#11 | Stunning Archaeological Ruins.

Many empires have ruled the land that is now Israel, so there are ruins all over, many dating from Roman times thousands of years ago – and others from long before. Some of the my favorite ruins to visit (I’ve been to all of them multiple times over the years):

Akko/Acre – One of the few natural ports along Israel’s coast, Akko has been used by many civilizations who have left their mark. Walk Old Akko’s walls and explore the underground crusader city. Another reason to go? Enjoying the epic tasting menu at one of my all-time favorite restaurants in the entire country, Uri Buri.
Caesarea – Named for Julius Caesar, the ruins here are massive and rival any that I’ve seen in Italy or Greece. Set aside plenty of time to explore all of the areas, including an Amphitheater and Hippodrome, dramatically located right on the Mediterranean coast.
Megiddo – The biblical site of Armageddon, this is one of the more ancient settlements whose mark is still visible today. James Michener’s masterpiece novel The Source is generally based on the archaeological excavations here, especially around the impressive underground water tunnel that you can explore on your visit.

#12 | Visit Wineries.

Modern wine-making has been taking place in Israel for over a century, but it is more recently that boutique and family-run wineries of quality have emerged onto the scene. There are many winery tours and tastings you can experience, both in the more traditional wine-growing regions and at some excellent producers cropping up in the desert areas south of Jerusalem. Click here for my rundown of all of the best wineries for a visit when you go.

#13 | Mystical City of Tsfat/Safed.

Tsfat has been the seat of Jewish study and Kabbala (Jewish mysticism) for quite some time, and many people travel here to learn. Overall, it’s a quiet place with stunning views, although the synagogue scene gets quite lively over Shabbat. Like Jaffa near Tel Aviv, there are also a lot of artists who make their home here and have galleries that are open to the public during the week. There are also many local dairies producing some excellent cheese.

#14 | Outdoor Adventure.

Israelis like to seek out their fair share of adventure, and with the varied terrain and coast, there are many great options. Some top possibilities for outdoor adventure include hiking, rock climbing, rappelling (known in Hebrew as snapling), skydiving, scuba diving, and canoeing or kayaking. Take your pick!

#15 | Hike Masada for Sunrise.

Masada is well-known for being the site of a famous siege and is also a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Jews were isolated on the plateau and after a long standoff with the Romans, committed mass suicide before they could be captured. The archaeological excavations of the settlement at the top are extensive, and it’s a beautiful (if hot) early morning hike to the top to watch sunrise over the mountains and the Dead Sea, and then visit the complex.

#16 | Float in the Dead Sea.

The lowest point on Earth, the Dead Sea also has an incredibly high salt concentration. Which means that you will be incredibly buoyant when you enter and can’t help but float – a disorienting and incredibly fun experience. You can see from me reading a book in the quintessential photo above that even if you normally have trouble floating, you can’t help but float here. The one think to be careful about is any cuts, no matter how microscopic. So maybe forgo shaving the morning before you go, as you will acutely feel any open wounds with the salinity.

#17 | Ein Gedi Oasis.

Israel’s largest oasis, this is a great spot for hiking and exploring for a day. Amidst the desert, there are springs, streams, and even waterfalls. Especially incredible given its proximity to the Dead Sea, it’s incredible to see all of the greenery and wildlife interspersed in an otherwise arid area. There are several trail options and lookout points to get a view of the surrounding area.

#18 | Trek the Desert.

I once volunteered at a camel riding outpost for three weeks, which involved living on a sand dune in the middle of nowhere with very few people around. In the middle of the desert, you can’t help but be in touch with the rising and setting sun and the expanse around you, I had no trouble seeing how many of the world’s religions were born in desert surroundings. It’s worth exploring Israel’s many desert landscapes during your visit, which you can do on foot hiking, biking, or riding a camel. And outside of the city lights the night sky is spectacular, so spend an overnight under the stars if you can.

#19 | Visit a Kibbutz.

A kibbutz is an Israeli collective – a community working together and jointly benefiting from individual efforts. Initially most kibbutzim were socialist farming communities and many even raised their children collectively, although in recent years many have shifted to a less socialist model. The fact that several of these uniquely Israeli communities are thriving today is a sight to see – many offer tours or meals, or even the possibility of staying overnight.

#20 | Check out a Machtesh.

Machtesh Ramon Israel — Image: Orhat via Wikimedia Commons

I would have written this article about how a machtesh in Israel is a must-see sight – if the Globe and Mail hadn’t already beaten me to it. A machtesh is an erosion crater unique to southern Israel and Egypt’s Sinai peninsula, and the largest of the five is Machtesh Ramon, which is over 40 kilometers (25 miles) long! Machtesh Ramon is the most humbling and also best equipped to direct tourists to its many hiking trails and lookout points

Are there any top experiences in Israel I missed? What stands out most in your mind? And any other questions about visiting Israel or any of the activities I listed? Share and ask away in the Comments!

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Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel

March 2, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Israeli cuisine is quite varied, but mostly local, so when a specific restaurants stands out for me, it’s really something special. Living there, I shopped for fresh produce at the shuk (market), bought my pita in stacks of ten several times a week, and mostly cooked at home. And with such fresh ingredients – the fruits and vegetables are at the peak of ripeness – you don’t need to do much to make them taste amazing. Not surprisingly, salads and spreads made from this excellent produce constitute a good part of the Israeli diet. And in the case of most of the local specialties that comprise my ‘foodie bucket list’ when I visit these days, these typical foods are available nearly everywhere, and every neighborhood has its best local place to consume them. If asked, any two Israelis are likely to argue over the best falafel spot down the street or which restaurant serves up the best shakshuka.

So in an environment like this, how did I possibly compose a list of “best” places to eat and drink across the country?

There are a small number of traditional and experimental foods and drinks that have made such an impression on me that I can still recall my meal in great detail. Some single flavor combination that is so spot-on or well-balanced. Or a unique ambiance that enhances great food and drink all the more. Or a basic establishment that serves such standout dishes that I want to come back for a return visit – and I have!

These are my best bites and sips. Israeli restaurants, cafes, and bars that I would come back to again and again (and probably will on my next visit):

Acre/Akko

Uri Buri

The meal I savored here still counts as one of the most epic tasting menus I’ve ever consumed. The philosophy is that they’ll keep bringing out specialty dishes of the house until you’ve decided that you’ve had enough for one night. Not a budget endeavor, but completely worth it for the cozy atmosphere in an old stone building and the whimsical and enticing dishes that exit the kitchen one after another. It was one of the first dishes that were served – a salmon sashimi with wasabi gelato – that really set the tone for me that I would be in for a special evening delighting my foodie tastebuds. While Uri Buri is a fish restaurant, it is not kosher (so will serve up shellfish), although there is also the option to dine a la carte if that’s a concern. And if you’re lucky, you’ll get a view of Uri Buri himself in the kitchen and greeting diners. He looks a bit like Santa Claus with a long white beard and lots of jolly laughter, so you’ll know it’s him if you see him. Only such joy could produce food this good.

Haifa

Fattoush

On the main street in Haifa that leads to the Baha’i Temple is this wonderland of Middle Eastern culinary specialties, with enough options to satisfy anyone’s appetite. There are ample vegetarian dishes and more meat dishes than you can imagine. Plus, you can’t beat eating inside the quaint courtyard on a beautiful day. Make sure to leave room for dessert and get their tahini ice cream – a frozen delight based on the sesame spread – something you’re not likely to be able to enjoy anywhere else.

Jerusalem

Gatsby Cocktail Room

I’ve had my fair share of cocktails during my time living in and visiting Israel, however the one that stands out in my mind I enjoyed at Gatsby. It’s a speakeasy on par with any I’ve been to in the world, bringing creativity and whimsy to its well-balanced creations. Being a speakeasy of course, it’s a bit tricky to find. To the right of the entrance to the Aroma Cafe is an unmarked door. Entering will bring you to a room where someone will be there to swing the bookcase open (!!) and let you inside. I was able to get in right when they opened on a Saturday after Shabbat ended, but in general reservations are recommended.

Machane Yehuda Market

This market has been around Jerusalem for around a century, with countless vendor stalls selling all of the local specialties you could dream of, from bourekas to halva to baklava. It’s a great spot to pick up goodies for a picnic meal, or food for over the Sabbath from Friday sundown until Saturday sundown, when many restaurants in Jerusalem are closed. Relatively recently, the market after hours has also become a destination, especially for the younger Jerusalemites. There are a ton of sit-down restaurants of local and global cuisine that make this area a nightlife hub once the daytime vendors have closed shop for the evening. If you’ve never been, I’d check out the market both during the day and again in the evening to fully appreciate all it has to offer.

Marzipan Bakery

A spot not far from Machane Yehuda Market (see above), no visit to Israel is complete without rugelach, a chocolately rolled mini-pastry, as prepared here. Bold words, but I absolutely mean it and am not alone – many foreigners make Marzipan their final travel stop before heading to the airport so they can take fresh rugelach home for loved ones. You’ll want to be sure to go when you’re in Jerusalem, too.

Tmol Shilshom

I’ve been coming to this bookstore/cafe for nearly two decades. And it’s just as charming as it was on the day I first wandered down an alleyway off Jerusalem’s touristy downtown pedestrian area and entered its cozy interior. Its shakshuka has been named one of the 10 best breakfasts in the world by Lonely Planet and its evening fare consists of the typical light, yet filling dishes you’d find at a cafe. Even as a teenager, I appreciated this oasis in the middle of an otherwise chaotic part of town, especially in the evenings. And sitting in plush chairs among the bookshelves just has a way of making you feel at home.

Tel Aviv/Jaffa

Hummus Habayit

In a teeny outpost on Allenby Street sits this self-proclaimed ‘House of Hummus’ serving up delicious plates of hummus with some of the friendliest service you’ll find in all of Israel. Here, the hummus is the main event, to be slowly enjoyed by ripping off small chunks of pita and swirling it through the plate of hummus. It’s a relaxing ritual, and you’ll want to eat slowly and savor all your bites at this spot that claims to be No. 2 in all of Israel. Number 1 according to the chef? Your first hummus ever. After that, this is the spot to go.

The Old Man and the Sea

Named after the Ernest Hemingway novel of the same name, this restaurant has been around Tel Aviv for a while and boasts multiple branches, although the one in the port city of Old Jaffa has the best view. Come with a group of friends if you can, as your table will be covered with salads and spreads to devour, and that’s even before your fish arrives. The food is great, the atmosphere makes it.

Sabich Frishman

Okay, so sabich may be my new Israeli food obsession. This pita stuffed with fried eggplant, hard-boiled egg, and a range of vegetables and condiments has all the ingredients and balance that for me make a perfect bite. And the version you’ll get at Sabich Frishman is considered by many to be the best in Tel Aviv, possibly in all of Israel. There is likely to be a line snaking out the door at most hours as locals line up. I like mine with cheese, all the vegetables and condiments, and a bit of spicy sauce, but you can just let them know when they efficiently take your order at the front.

Have you been to any of these spots? Any place I should have included that’s not listed? Any other questions about eating out in Israel? Let me know in the Comments!

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Impressions & Top Insider Picks for What to Do in Jerusalem

March 1, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Jerusalem is built on a series of hills, and as you approach the city in a vehicle for the first time, you feel the anticipation build more and more as you loop around the winding roads. At some point it occurs to you to turn your head, and you find yourself looking down into the dramatic valleys and into the distance at this sacred biblical land. Just when you think you might have arrived, there is one more turn, one more bend, one more cutback, before finally the city of Jerusalem comes into full view.

This build-up, this anticipation, is part of the mystique of the city of Jerusalem. There are surprises and secrets to uncover everywhere you turn, whether it’s an ancient Roman road getting unearthed during an excavation or a previously unknown tunnel accidentally discovered. It is ancient white stone structures and modern amenities. A lengthy history that is tangible as you walk it’s streets, with ancient whispers beckoning at every turn.

Jerusalem is a holy city, central to the Jewish, Christian, and Muslim faiths. The Old City has Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim quarters. Israel itself has become a melting pot even for Jews of many nationalities, including recent waves of Ethiopian and Russian immigrants. Jerusalem has a bustle about it of people always moving with purpose, whether on a religious pilgrimage or simply running errands about town. It is a city that moves.

And then suddenly, the activity comes to a screeching halt as the sun sets on Friday evening. There is the quiet of Shabbat (the Sabbath), a deep calm that sets into the city until Saturday’s sundown, observed more widely in Jerusalem than in Israel’s more secular cities. Sometimes on Shabbat as you stroll deserted streets, taking in the meditative silence of the Jewish day of rest, you feel as if you could be walking those streets 2,000 years ago and not much would differ. There would be the same peaceful quiet, the same contemplation and introspection, the same Jerusalem stone guiding your steps.

Israel, and the city of Jerusalem specifically, was the first place that I lived abroad. Despite my teenage inexperience with travel, I took it all in with a sense of wonder, marveling at the rich history and how connected it was still to the modern city. I loved exploring the back alleys and narrow passageways of Jerusalem’s pedestrian areas and wandering inside the walls of the Old City. I also loved using the city as a jumping off point for other weekend explorations – which I did often – and always savored the return bus trip, looping my way slowly up Jerusalem’s hills until I could see the city peek through again on the turns and finally feeling my heart jump as I could see the full view of Jerusalem again.

Despite the countless times I’ve entered the city of Jerusalem by bus or car, my experience en route is always the same. While I know the city well, it is constantly evolving, and with every visit I see the latest archaeological discovery or a new section of the Western Wall Tunnels unearthed. There is so much to take in, so much to savor, and so much to discover for the first time. On each visit.

Things to Do

Old City and Nearby

Old City

The Old City is divided into four quarters – Armenian, Christian, Jewish, and Muslim – and is accessible through nine active gates. It is a bit of living history, with shopkeepers and many holy sites for several religions contained within a small geographic area. Even without a particular destination in mind, it’s a great spot to wander, and be sure to spend at least some time in each of the quarters. Use caution at the entrance gates, and rest assured that there is security posted frequently throughout.

TIP! Many of the religious sites for Christianity, Islam, and Judaism in the Old City require modest dress to enter, so it’s a good idea to dress modestly on any day you’ll be visiting.

The Shuk

Shuk simply means market, and is similar to other traditional markets you may have visited throughout the Middle East. Anything from spices to hand-carved chess and backgammon sets to kitchy tourist t-shirts will be on sale, and this is the time to put your haggling skills to the test. Don’t be afraid to walk away – it will improve your bargaining position and there is also likely to be another vendor selling similar (or identical) wares.

Western Wall

The one remaining wall of the first-century Second Temple built by Herod, this spot is the holiest area where Jews can pray. People flock from all over the world, and like the most religious Jews, prayer space is divided into men’s and women’s sections. Modest dress is required. You’ll notice lots of people placing tiny scraps of paper into the cracks in the wall – these notes have people’s personal prayers written on them, believed to have special powers to reach God. If you’re feeling inclined, leave a note with your own prayer on it.

Western Wall Tunnels

The Western Wall is the section visible at ground level, however there are more extensive remnants of the Second Temple underground. I’ve probably toured the Western Wall tunnels three or four times, but it is always worth arranging a visit as excavation are ongoing and new areas are constantly unearthed and added to the tour. It’s best to reserve a spot in advance, using the link above.

Via Dolorosa

Literally “the way of suffering,” this path traces Jesus’s steps on the way to crucifixion. There are 14 stations of the cross, beginning at Lions’ Gate and ending at the Church of the Holy Sepulchre, where the last five stations are located.

Church of the Holy Sepulchre

Considered to be the location of Jesus’s tomb, Christians from all over the world make a pilgrimage to this Church inside Jerusalem’s Old City. While open daily, lines can get quite lengthy, so it’s best to visit earlier in the day.

Al Aqsa Mosque & Temple Mount

The Temple Mount is the third holiest site in Islam after Mecca and Medina, and the holiest site for Jews. For non-Muslims there are very limited visiting hours only from Sunday to Thursday, and entrance to the mosques is no longer permitted. Also, the site can be closed without warning at any time for security reasons. Check in at the link above for the latest information, and arrive early (with your passport) and dress modestly if you’d like the possibility of a visit.

Tower of David & Museum of the History of Jerusalem

Also known as the Citadel, the Tower of David, it’s a former Ottoman fortification located just outside the Old City’s Jaffa Gate. You can tour the archaeological excavation and visit a museum showcasing Jerusalem’s lengthy history. There is also an evening light and sound show, with advance tickets recommended.

Hezekiah’s Tunnel & the City of David

This water tunnel is part of the City of David, and was an engineering marvel when first constructed nearly 3,000 years ago. Its purpose was to provide water access to the city in the case of a siege. The tunnel is accessible up until 1 hour before closing time, although you’ll need to buy tickets at least 2 hours before close. Come prepared with water shoes and light, water-resistant clothing as water may be as high as your knees as you walk through the tunnel. Likely to be one of the more memorable sights of your time in Jerusalem.

Around Town

Ben Yehuda Street & Surrounding Pedestrian Areas

A bustling part of town, especially in the evenings, the modern ‘center’ of Jerusalem can be found here. There are a lot of shopping opportunities from brick-and-mortar stores to outdoor markets, and plenty of cafes and restaurants to pop into as you stroll.

Machane Yehuda Market

By day, this is a bustling Middle Eastern market (or shuk) with fresh produce, endless prepared food for sale, and any knick-knack you might need. By night, the market is now a trendy destination for dinner or a night out with friends, especially for the younger Jerusalem crowd. It’s closed on Shabbat, from sundown Friday to sundown Saturday, but otherwise is a must-visit spot at several times of day to taste your way through.

Museums

Israel Museum

The top draw here is probably the Dead Sea Scrolls, ancient biblical manuscripts on display in the iconic white building pictured above. This world-class museum also houses notable art and archaeological artifacts, and its gardens are extensive and worth a stroll.

Yad Vashem

The State of Israel was founded in the wake of the Holocaust and its Holocaust Remembrance Center is a sobering reminder of the atrocities committed against Jews and others during World War II. Take a slow day and take your time to weave through the thoughtful exhibitions.

Off the Beaten Path

Mount of Olives

This biblical site has been used as a Jewish cemetery for several thousand years and has been a pilgrimage sight for Jews as well. While you may visit for religious significance, it is also a great spot to overlook the city of Jerusalem. Part of the City of David, although a bit further from the Old City than Hezekiah’s Tunnel (see above).

Chagall Windows at Hadassah Medical Center, Ein Kerem

It’s not really close to anywhere you’re likely to be, but if you want to glimpse 12 stunning Marc Chagall windows depicting biblical scenes, head to the synagogue inside the Hadassah Medical Center at Ein Kerem. These were the first Chagall windows I trekked to see, although I more recently enjoyed the Chagall Windows at a church in Mainz. Perhaps I should adopt a new motto: Will travel for beautiful stained glass windows.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Jerusalem is a relatively easy city to navigate. A lot of the sights you’ll want to see are clustered in a few walkable areas, like the Old City and the pedestrian area around Ben Yehuda Street. The other main modes of transportation are:

Light Rail

Opened in 2011, the light rail is a pleasant way to traverse Jerusalem. Only one line is currently open, but it will take you to many of the sights of interest like the Old City, the pedestrian Center, and Mahane Yehuda Market. The light rail also stops at the Central Bus Station, for when you arrive and leave the city, and connects at several points to bus lines.

Buses

The bus system in Israel as a whole, and Jerusalem as well, is exceptionally thorough. Even for the places you’ll want to go outside the central areas, there will definitely be a bus to get you there. Check the Egged site linked above (in English) for schedules and routes.

Taxis

Taxis are widely available, and most drivers speak English. Be sure to negotiate a fare before agreeing to a ride. You can always ask at your accommodations what you should expect a certain ride to cost so you have a baseline in mind.

TIP! Bargaining is a way of life in Israel, and most things are expected to be negotiated. And like all haggling, you’re best served not accepting the first offer.

TIP! A lot of modes of transportation do not operate in Jerusalem on Shabbat, so if you do travel other than on foot, expect to pay more than usual for your taxi.

Jerusalem really is a city that has my heart, and there is so much to discover across its hills. Even among Israeli cities it’s unique, both for how much history has been preserved across millenia and how much that history is felt on a daily basis. It’s a magical place to spend Shabbat and really appreciate the “day of rest.” And a cultural experience like no other to fully take in the other days of the week.

Interested in where to eat while you’re in Jerusalem? Head to this post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my top Jerusalem picks.

Have you been to Jerusalem? Any spots you love that I should add to my list? Other questions about visiting? Let me know in the Comments.

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Foodie Bucket List: The 16 Best Local Foods (and Drinks) in Israel

February 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Leading up to my most recent trip to Israel, I was a bit stymied by the ‘travel planning’ phase I engage in for most of my trips. I lived in Israel for a year, which was the start of my extensive traveling. I’ve been back to visit many times since, and not so much changes from year to year. Besides catching up with friends and family, how would I spend my time there?

Then, the night before my trip, I couldn’t stop thinking about all of the foods I knew I wanted to be sure to eat at some point during the ten days. I obviously had to have falafel. And hummus. And shakshuka. The more I thought about it, the longer my list became, until I had a pretty decent list stored on my phone of what foods I would seek out on my travels.

So I arrived with a “To Eat” list instead of a “To Do” list.

Even if you’ve never been to Israel, if you’re familiar with the cuisines of other countries on the Mediterranean Sea, you may recognize some of the foods below – or their variations. In any case, the Israeli versions of these specialties are worth seeking out on your visit. Ask any local, and they’ll point you to the best nearby spot for:

Savory Bites

Shakshuka

The ultimate in savory breakfast, shakshuka consists of a spiced tomato, pepper and onion mixture that is heated and then used as a liquid to poach eggs. A beautiful and incredibly hearty way to start the day. Or do as many Israelis do, and have breakfast for dinner. Find out more about a top spot to sample this typical dish in my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel.

Bourekas

Known as a burek in other countries along the Mediterranean and in Eastern Europe, the Israeli version of bourekas also involves phyllo dough that has been stuffed typically with some sort of savory filling and topped with sesame and/or poppy seeds. The salty cheese and potato ones are most common, although there are plenty of variations on fillings. A lot of markets have stands selling bourekas, or it is a good savory bite to pick up from the bakery section of a supermarket for a snack on the go.

Falafel

A falafel is one of several common Israeli foods served in a puffy pita. The falafel balls themselves consist of ground chickpeas and other spices that are then deep fried. In any reputable falafel stand, you’ll have a variety of toppings to choose from, including spreads like hummus and tahini. Some of my favorite add-ons are marinated cubes of eggplant, pickles, and french fries.

Schwarma

Another typical pita dish found all over Israel, schwarma is filled with meat shaved off of a spit. In Israel it is usually lamb, although you’ll sometimes find chicken versions. Condiments mirror those available for falafel, and make for some tasty bites.

Sabich

The third and final pita dish on this list, sabich has recently become trendy and widely available in Israel, and was my favorite new bite of my last visit. Condiments are also similar to falafel and shwarma, except that the main filling is fried eggplant and chunks of hard-boiled egg. There is just some unctuous savoriness that comes with a well-made sabich that made this the meal I chose for my final dinner before flying home to Milan. Head to my post on the Best Places to Eat (& Drink) in Israel for my favorite spot to eat this local specialty.

Hummus

As you’ve seen above, hummus is a typical condiment for pita-based dishes, however it can also be a stand-alone meal. When hummus made its way onto my “to eat” list, it was not as a dip but the warm hummus that is served with chickpeas and spices or sauteed lamb on top, and then pita bread becomes merely the vehicle for the food, with the hummus and its toppings as the main event.

Jachnun & Malawach

These two types of Middle Eastern concoctions are often made from the same dough and served with the same condiments, so I’ve included them together here. The format differs – for jachnun the dough is rolled into almost a narrow cylinder and malawach is in the form of thick, circular pancakes – but both are brushed with some type of fat or oil. Jachnun tends to be cooked slowly in an oven while malawach is fried, but then both are served with a crushed tomato dip, hard boiled egg, and hot sauce.

Sweet Bites

Baklava

The exact history of baklava’s origins is murky, but the important thing to know is that it is part of local tradition and you’ll eat excellent versions everywhere you go. There are also many varieties beyond the typical bites with flat sections of phyllo dough, some having a more shredded exterior. You can usually find pretty small bites of the different varieties, so go crazy and sample them all!

Halva

There are tons of variations of halva around the world – and I’ve sampled versions from Greece to Oman – but the Israeli version is the one I find most addictive. Locally it’s made from a sesame paste and starts off in a large block that is cut into slices for sale. Varieties abound, and beyond the plain version, you’ll most typically see chocolate or various nuts mixed in. Any market is a great place to sample many different types and then buy a slice or two for later.

‘Exploding’ Chocolate

At any supermarket, head to the row of red Elite chocolate bars and you’ll find this delightful bar of chocolate with pop rocks inside, with little yellow explosions shown on the label. A great snack to have after a picnic meal or while out hiking. It’s also a great souvenir or gift to bring back home, especially if you don’t tell the recipient what to expect when they take a bite.

Krem Bo

I’ve sampled this treat at food markets in Europe also, but my favorite version is still the Israeli Krem Bo. It is a circle of graham cracker covered by a near-cylinder of marshmallow goo and encased in a thin chocolate shell. Due to the summer heat that would melt these pretty quickly, you’ll typically only find Krem Bo for sale in the winter. The good news is that during Israel’s cooler months you can find them almost everywhere, from large supermarkets to the convenience store on the corner. If you’re having trouble finding them (which even I do sometimes despite knowing what they look like), just ask.

Doughnuts

Although doughnuts themselves are not a local food per se, sufganiyot – the doughnuts available around Chanukah time – are taken to a whole new level in Israel. The toppings and fillings available boggle the mind, and really it just becomes a vessel for a baker’s creativity.

TIP! Chanukah is usually in December, depending on the lunar, Jewish calendar for any given year, so check the timing before you go if you’d like to be around for the right 8 days.

Beverages

Nana Tea

Any time of year, hot tea is good way to stay hydrated in the desert. So whether you’re actually in the desert, or at one of the developed cities surrounded by desert, nana tea is the local pick. Nana is a type of spearmint from the Mediterranean whose mint leaves will be placed directly into boiling water, often with a regular tea bag, too. A refreshing cuppa anytime.

Sachlav

You’ll see this milky, comfort beverage more often in winter as many people prefer to consume it hot (although it is served cold as well). In addition to milk, aromatics are added, with the exact mix depending on the recipe. Known by some as ‘the hot chocolate of the Middle East,’ it basically serves the same comfort function of a hot chocolate, mulled wine, or hot cider. Keep an eye out for it at market vendors and even coffee shops in bus and train stations during winter.

Wine

Israeli wine is excellent. A lot of wineries produce kosher wine, but make no mistake – we’re not talking syrupy-sweet Manishewitz here. Some of the best wines I’ve ever had have been from Israel, which produces many varietals of both white and red grapes you’re probably familiar with. Israeli ingenuity has led to exacting production standards that produce a delicious final product year after year. There is also a ton of value with Israeli wine right now, due to all of the competition. Take advantage and sample your way through Israeli wines whenever you have the opportunity. And check out this thorough post on which Israeli wineries are best to visit. If you won’t get a chance to visit wineries in person, but still want to taste the range of Israeli wines, there are dozens of wines that can be sampled at Tel Aviv’s Tasting Room Wine Bar.

Beer

Israel is known for its entrepreneurial spirit, and this is evident in the emerging craft beer scene as well. The craft beer expansion began in earnest around a decade ago, similar to the timing of Israel’s boutique winery boom. You’ll find it on menus all over and there are quite a few breweries or brewery pubs for specific brands in Israel’s major cities. There is a great round-up of craft breweries to visit from Afar Magazine here. Another great place to sample a variety of craft brews from different breweries is BeerBazaar, with locations in the Carmel Market in Tel Aviv & Machane Yehuda Market in Jerusalem (I’ve been to and enjoyed the Jerusalem branch). Or you can always opt for the old standby Israeli-produced beers that have been quenching thirst for decades: Carlsberg, Goldstar, Maccabee, & Tuborg.

What’s your favorite Israeli dish? Any typical food I’ve omitted? Have you ever traveled with a “to eat” list? Let me know in the Comments!

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8 Best Wineries to Visit in Israel

February 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“If the Romans made wine here 2,000 years ago, why can’t we today?”

These wise words from one of the more recent Israeli winemakers of the Judean Desert south of Jerusalem embody the explosion of new wineries in Israel over the last decade or so, with the most up-and-coming regions being located in Israel’s desert areas in the south of the country.

Wine has been produced in Israel for millenia – dating from biblical times and later during the Roman Empire – but modern Israeli wine-making has happened on a much shorter timescale, from the 1880s on. And it is the last decade or two in particular that has seen an explosion of new boutique wineries across Israel producing excellent bottles of wine. The recent expansion of wineries is not limited to just the number of wine producers, but also includes wineries popping up in new geographic areas of the country, bringing even more variety to what types of wines today constitute ‘Israeli wine.’ This also means that wherever you’re travelling in the country, there is likely a winery nearby that you can pop into for a visit and a tasting.

Traditionally the green, fertile areas of the Galilee and Golan Heights and the coastal areas in the north of the country have been the hub for wine production, and you’ll still find Israel’s oldest and largest wineries there. Some of the most interesting wines being produced however come from the newer wine-producing regions in the more arid regions to the south, whose varied terroir (soil) and climate lead to very different flavors and notes in the final product. Of course grapes can always taste quite different depending on where they’re grown, but Israel’s varied terrain over relatively small country makes it an especially interesting contrast as you taste your way through its wineries as you travel across the country.

In general, the red grapes grown throughout Israel today tend to be similar to those found in France, from the most common Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, and Syrah and even some of the lesser-known red grape varietals like Cabernet Franc and Petit Verdot. In terms of whites, you’ll see a lot of Chardonnay and Sauvignon Blanc, along with some German white wines like Gewurztraminer and Riesling.

I’ve personally visited most of the wineries on this list, however there are a few additional wineries producing excellent bottles right now that I’ve also included as options for a winery visit in the relevant regions below:

Wineries of Note

Coastal Areas

Carmel Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Carignan, Chardonnay, Merlot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

Famous French winemaker Baron de Rothschild (of Chateau Lafitte renown) founded this winery in the late 1800s, kicking off the modern era of Israeli winemaking. Carmel is actually the largest winery in Israel, and has such interesting history it is also well worth it to come for the tour. If you get a chance, check out the original log books of expenses, and you’ll notice several incidences of the word bakshish (the Arabic word for bribe) listed in several different spellings – a recurring expense when the winery was first founded 😉 It is quite inexpensive for the basic tour, so you’ll definitely get your money’s worth here and also enjoy the several wines available for tasting whichever tour you choose.

Tulip Winery

Reservations: Not needed (except for groups)

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Gewurtztraminer, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Although I haven’t been personally, the wines from Tulip are so acclaimed I am compelled to include it on this list. Their wines are routinely on lists of top wines from Israel, and their visitor’s center garners high praise. Also, this family winery has a social conscience, employing many people with special needs from the surrounding community.

Golan Heights

Golan Heights Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group or VIP tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Petit Verdot, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah, Viognier (and several others, check out the full list here)

The Golan Heights Winery offers what I would characterize as the most touristy experience of the wineries on this list, with tour groups criss-crossing each other throughout the estate. Due to the several acclaimed labels produced by this winery, and their extensive operations, it’s definitely one of the wineries where it is worth the advance planning necessary for a visit. There are several levels of tours available in multiple languages beyond Hebrew and English. The different levels of tours vary in length, price, food offered, and which wines are available for tasting.

Pelter Winery

Reservations: Not needed except for groups

Tasting: Free, there is a per person fee for groups, which includes tour and wine tasting

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Sauvignon Blanc, Shiraz

Have a phone or GPS handy, as this winery was a bit hard to find. Once you arrive, you’ll be rewarded by a tasting of excellent whites and interesting reds. While Pelter is a known brand you’ll find in many wine shops and on restaurant menus, you’ll be able to buy bottles for a much more reasonable price in person and have a great tasting experience. And while it may be pricier wine than the bottles you’ll find at other wineries, the quality makes it all worth it.

Judean Desert/Center

Domaine du Castel

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot

This winery involves a bit more effort to visit on your own, although it is a stop on a lot of organized wine tours. The wines include a chardonnay, rosé, and some red blends, many of which have received international recognition for their quality. Like several other wineries on this list, it is a family-managed winery, which you’ll feel on your visit. Do note that this is the priciest of the wine tastings, which includes a winery tour and cheese plate.

Flam Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting (with add-on option of cheese & bread), for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

While I’ve enjoyed a bottle of wine from Flam at a restaurant in Tel Aviv, I have not visited the winery personally. It is the second priciest winery tasting option on this list (with some of the priciest bottles of wine), however the winery has received so much attention lately I would be remiss to not include it. Definitely a stop for the serious oenophile.

Tzora Winery

Reservations: Required

Tasting: Organized as a group tour and tasting, for a fee

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, Sauvignon Blanc, Syrah

Tzora is unique to this list for being a boutique winery in a desert region that has actually been around for over two decades, producing wine since the early 1990s. One of the pioneering wineries of the Judean Hills, the team at Tzora has assembled a lot of expertise that shines through in the final product, always topping lists of the best Israeli wines.

Yatir Winery

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit Verdot, Syrah, Viognier

Another one of my absolute favorite wineries, Yatir is one of Israel’s current outstanding producers. Like Pelter (see above), it is widely available in wine shops around Israel, although at a markup from what you can pay for the excellent quality in-person at the winery. A top winery for a visit, producing some truly excellent bottles worth taking home.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

There are a few additional things you may want to keep in mind when planning your wine tasting tour of Israel – or at least a tour of Israel with some wine tasting along the way =)

TIP! If you’ve rented a car, you’ll know you’re in the vicinity of a winery by the brown sign for sights of interest with grapes on it. The best part of taking a road trip is the spontaneity to go somewhere unexpected at a moment’s notice. If the mood strikes you, take advantage!

TIP! Most Israelis speak English well, and this is especially true at the wineries hosting visitors, so don’t worry about being able to understand your tour or tasting. Some of the larger wineries will also offer tours in additional languages.

TIP! A lot of wineries are closed on Saturday for the Jewish Sabbath, and many have limited hours on Friday as the Sabbath begins at sundown (so timing varies throughout the year). Plan your visits accordingly.

TIP! Wineries (and the country as a whole) will also close for other Jewish holidays that may not be on your radar, so definitely consult a Jewish calendar before planning your trip and your winery visits.

TIP! Even for the wineries that don’t require advance reservations, it is good to have a working phone handy to give them a heads up you’ll be coming or to get help with directions if you’re lost on the way.

TIP! Phone numbers in Israel begin with a zero followed by another number indicating the region, and cell phones all begin with 05. If you’re calling from an Israeli phone, include the zero. For calls from other places, when you add the +972 in front for the country code, leave off the zero from the number.

Israeli wine tasting for me ranks up there with some of the stellar tastings I’ve done in wine regions all over the world, from the US to Australia to France to Italy. And the environment is so different from wine regions you may be used to that even some of the grapes you think you know well are likely to surprise you.

If you’re not sure if you’ll have time to do a wine tasting at a winery, check out the ‘Wine’ section of my Foodie Bucket List for Israel for the best spot where you can do a number of tastings at wine bar in Tel Aviv.

Have you ever had Israeli wine? Any favorite Israeli wineries that didn’t make my list? Share any additional intel and comments below!

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Naples Cheat Sheet: What to Do & Where to Eat

February 23, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Impressions

Naples is considered the birthplace of pizza, however the Neapolitan pizza tradition is just scratching the surface of what the city has to offer. Many people pass by Naples on their Italy travels, or stay for just a few hours when transiting, but there is such a special personality of the city that warrants a longer stay. You can read more about my impressions of Naples and all of the crazy experiences I’ve had that represent some of the spirit there in a previous post here.

Sights in Naples range from the subterranean tunnel system to opulent churches with incredible art collections and castles with incredible vistas of the harbor. The intensity and bustle of the city is matched by the variety and flavor of the many local culinary specialties, and a few days or a weekend is needed even just to eat your way through Naples, let alone appreciate all its beauty. Keep scrolling for all of the things you’ll want to spend your time doing, and where to eat some incredible food along the way.

Things to Do

Amazing art

Archaelogical Museum

Pompeii is of course worth a visit all on its own, however the Archaeological museum in Naples itself is where a lot of the art from Pompeii is displayed. It’s an incredible collection well worth the time to explore (I spent several hours).

Pio Monte della Misericordia

I went inside on a whim one of the many times I was walking along Via dei Tribunali, one of the central streets close to many churches and restaurants. Although it is a church, there is a fairly large collection of impressive artwork and objects, including Caravaggio’s The Seven Works of Mercy.

Sansevero Chapel Museum

The highlight of this museum-chapel is the tomb monument known as ‘the veiled Christ.’ Like all transcendent art, you see it once, and then anywhere else you are in the room, your eyes keep getting drawn back to appreciate its beauty.

Other churches of note

Duomo

The word Duomo means cathedral in Italian, making it a top sight in most Italian cities. The Duomo in Naples is no exception, and it especially notable for the Museo del Tesoro di San Gennaro, a museum of well-adorned art treasures connected to the cathedral.

Church of Gesù Nuovo

This is a very different looking church from the others you’ll see in Naples, especially from the outside with its dark stone facade, starkly contrasting with the golden colors of its interior. It’s a popular place for locals to attend service on Sundays, so plan your visit accordingly.

Basilica di San Lorenzo Maggiore

Pretty much in the exact historic center, the inside is not as opulent as some of the other churches, but this Basilica boasts extensive history, including the remnants of an ancient Roman market underneath.

Around town

Napoli Sottoranea (Naples Underground)

This is a tunnel tour well worth your time, exploring the tunnel system under the city. History in the tunnels ranges from use as a water source in ancient times to being used as a shelter during World War II, and even includes the remains of a Roman theater that is concealed by the many homes and apartments it borders.

Spaccanapoli

This street is easily spotted from any vantage point in Naples as the pedestrian walkway that cuts a straight line through the historical center. Mentioned often in Ferrante’s Neapolitan novels, it is still a bustling street where locals spend their leisure time.

Porta Nolana market

Visiting a market is a must to get a feel for the true chaos of Naples. The Porta Nolana market is mostly known for its fish and seafood, although you can find typical market fare as well.

Lungomare Caracciolo

Lungomare literally means the length of the sea, and is the pedestrian promenade along the Gulf of Naples. You’ll find many locals taking a stroll here in the late afternoon, watching breathtaking sunset views.

Amazing views/Off the beaten path

Capodimonte Museum

There are some famous works of art housed here and I enjoyed my visit, but I appreciated the location even more for its expansive views and the popular park surrounding the museum building.

Castel Nuovo

Close to the Royal Palace and Piazza del Plebiscito, this literal “new castle” is quite distinctive-looking and considered a city landmark, and dates from medieval times.

Castle of St. Elmo & Certosa e Museo di San Martino

The castle and nearby former monastery/museum are both accessible on the same hilltop by either metro or funicular from the center (followed by a bit of walking). The views from both are breathtaking, and they are not very crowded – I had some great opportunities to sit and appreciate the view in solitude. Also check out the nearby Friggitoria Vomero (see below) for a quick bite.

Ovo Castle

While the castle itself has irregular hours and I did not get a chance to visit, it is located on a small peninsula jutting out from the mainland not far from the Piazza del Plebiscito. Worth a visit for its lovely views of coastal Naples, especially at sunset.

Piazza del Plebiscito

This piazza, or square, has a very different look and feel from other parts of the city. It is an austere semi-circular open expanse lined by traditional columns and the domed Basilica Reale, or royal basilica.

Best Bites (& Sips)

Coffee

Caffè Mexico

On Piazza Dante, Caffe’ Mexico is considered by many to be the best coffee in Naples. The interior is traditional as is the espresso: deep brown and intense. Local coffee in Naples packs a particularly strong punch, even by Italian standards, and the version at Caffe’ Mexico exemplifies why coffee was its own entry on my list of Top 10 Things to Eat and Drink in Naples.

Il Vero Bar del Professore

Beware imposters, there are a ton of similarly named places in the immediate vicinity of the real (vero) bar where caffè alla nocciola was created, but it is worth seeking out the original spot where espresso was mixed with whipped hazelnut (nocciola) cream. Mmmmm . . .

Pastries

Sfogliatelle Attanasio

Open daily except Monday, take a number to join the queue for the piping hot sfogliatella, a seashell-looking pastry which is served here with the perfect balance of ricotta, citrus, and crispy outside. It is quite close to the central train station, making it an easy stop for visitors (and loads of locals).

Pastisseria Capriccio di Salvatore Capparelli

This spot is my go-to spot for babà on Via dei Tribunali, serving up a light-as-air version of the local rum cake that somehow has still soaked up all the syrupy goodness without being too sweet.

Restaurants

50 Kalò

Neapolitans could probably argue for days over which pizzeria serves the best pizza in Naples. I had a particularly delicious one here, on a recommendation from a friend-of-a-friend who is from Naples. It’s not such a well-kept secret though, learn more about what makes their dough so special here.

Friggitoria Vomero

This friggitoria (a vendor of fried goodies), was a small, authentic spot close to the Castle of St. Elmo and the Certosa e Museo di San Martino. The smell draws you in and then you are presented with many fried options to choose from, although I think the fried polenta and fried zucchini blossoms, fiori di zucca, were my best bites.

La Masardona

Also close to the central train station, this is another popular place that keeps the order of people waiting by taking a number. There are several varieties of fried pizza available, although my favorite bite might have been what was essentially fried macaroni and cheese (technically with bechamel, but same thing really). And best of all, you get to watch them assemble and fry your choices.

Osteria Da Antonio

A charming spot with local specialties done well and friendly service. It’s small, but cozy, and filled with lots of Italians. I dined on my own and it felt like I was being welcomed into someone’s home.

Limoncello

Limonè

Also along the Via dei Tribunali stretch and right by the Naples Underground, this factory makes several lemon-based products, including limoncello, the famous local lemon liqueur, usually imbibed at the end of a hearty meal to aid digestion (literally a digestivo). Unlike souvenir shops, at Limonè you can taste the different varieties of limoncello before you buy. I like both their traditional limoncello and their crema di limone, the cream version.

Have you visited Naples? What were your highlights? Anything I should add to the Cheat Sheet? Let me know in the Comments!

12 Things To Expect on Your Visit That Are “So Perth”

February 21, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I had (almost) forgotten so many things that make Perth a wonderful and unique city. I lived there for just over a year, and then went for my first return trip just a few months ago. I pride myself on having an excellent memory, so it really was quite a shock to the system to realize how much of what I knew about Perth that had migrated to the outer edges of my recollections and only returned to my consciousness in force when I was experiencing the city in person again.

The thing about moving away from a city where you’ve lived is that while you take many memories with you, there are so many more memories that are so inextricably tied to a sense of place that you only recall them walking the same streets, hearing the noises of the neighborhood, and smelling the aromas you’ve left behind. It’s the reason we re-visit places from our past, and why we’re drawn in some cases to travel to the same place over and over again.

What you need to know about Perth is that while it may be considered by many to be the most isolated city in the world, it’s an incredible city for living. Winters are mild, people are friendly, and even the public toilets are nice. What’s not to love?

Even many Australians from east coast cities like Melbourne and Sydney have never ventured to Perth (for those of you unfamiliar with the size of Australia, it’s about the size of the continental US – taking 5 hours flying to traverse east to west), so Perth can be a bit of a mystery, even to the Aussies. Every city has its own flavor, and Perth is no different, with all its quirks.

Here are some things that stood out in my rush of memories on my recent visit, and that you should also expect when you go. Things that are “so Perth.”

#1 | Friendly People

Australians in general are a pretty friendly bunch, and people in Perth really exemplify this. You’ll notice it when you’re getting coffee or browsing in a shop, or doing any activity really. On my recent trip I went to an outdoor kickboxing class with a friend, and the friendliness of the *other* people taking the class really blew me away. Although I was not a regular and they did not know me, every time we were running laps between intervals, the Aussies were shouting “good on you” and other words of encouragement. A stark contrast to other places I’ve lived for sure.

#2 | Sunny Days

When most people picture Australia, it’s probably a sunny image, but Perth takes things to a whole new level. It’s the sunniest capital city in the world, averaging 8 hours of sunshine daily, so any visit is likely to include mostly sun-filled days. For me this also means that I usually have some sort of hat or visor with me at all times, because the Australian sunshine is H-O-T. And beware that the hole in the ozone layer above Australia is no joke. I would sometimes get a bit of color or even sunburn on my 10-minute walk to the grocery store. But if you’re anything like me, bright sunshine puts you in a good mood, so every day feels like a pleasant vacation.

#3 | Great Coffee

Anyone who’s ever been to Australia knows that there are excellent espresso-drinks nearly everywhere – in fact, it was when I was living in Perth that I became a full-fledged coffee snob. Perth is pretty laid-back overall, but they sure do take their coffee seriously, from the beans to the roast to the barista artwork. And when you’re arriving in Perth from outside Australia like I was on my recent visit, the difference is striking. Enjoy several discerning cups of coffee, and appreciate it while you can.

#4 | Beaches

Like most major settlements across Australia, Perth is basically on the coast. The Central Business District, or CBD, is a bit inland along the Swan River, but most of metropolitan Perth’s coast is along the Indian Ocean. There are several great surfing beaches easily accessible by public transportation, areas like Mettam’s Pool with world-class snorkeling right off the beach, extended sections of coast that are basically a giant playground like Hillary’s Boat Harbour, and plenty of bars and restaurants up and down the coastline. Beaches are so loved by locals I even had co-workers on adjusted work schedules so they could head to the beach before or after work EVERY DAY.

#5 | Wind

People in Perth always told me that it was the 1^st sunniest capital city in the world and the 3^rd windiest. I’m not sure how accurate the windiest claim is, but the takeaway is that Perth can be quite shockingly windy. Somehow the grid of the CBD lines up with the typical wind currents, so you’ll experience some pretty strong wind gusts in the streets of downtown. It also tends to get more windy as the day goes on, so people in the know head to the beaches in the morning hours, before the windiest part of the day sets in.

#6 | Kangaroos

You don’t need to go to a wildlife park or zoo to get a glimpse of a kangaroo – there are plenty of wild kangaroos hanging out in and around Perth. Not far (and walkable!) from the CBD is Heirisson Island, with an area open to the public with wild kangaroos, in full view of the downtown skyscrapers. There are also quite a few wild kangaroos that hang out and play in Yanchep National Park, north of the city. When I was at Yanchep there were some kangaroos fighting – remember that kangaroos are powerful animals and don’t get too close in the wild, they have a fierce kick when balanced on their tail! Still very cool that kangaroos are just hanging around in many places throughout the city, especially at dusk.

#7 | Rainbows

For a place as sunny as Perth, rainbows are not something you would expect with great frequency. But there is just something about the weather patterns (and possibly how quickly the sun reappears after rainfall?) that makes huge arcs of color a common sight. Living there, I remember being very excited the first time I saw a rainbow, and immediately snapped a picture. A few days later, I felt like the luckiest rainbow-spotter ever, and took another photo. Not long after, I realized how often rainbows would appear, although that didn’t make them any less beautiful. I probably took more rainbow pictures in my one year living there than everywhere else I’ve ever visited combined!

#8 | Crazy Costs

Australia is a giant island, so many things have to be brought in from overseas, and are priced accordingly. Perth is so isolated – even from the rest of Australia – that prices can even be a bit higher than in other parts of Oz. The good news is that while the prices look exorbitant, for many nationalities coming from abroad, the currency exchange rate is way more favorable now than before. For example, when I lived there 5 years ago, the Australian dollar and US dollar were basically at parity, US$1 = AUD$1. Now an Australian dollar only costs about 75 US cents. My strategy on my last trip was to think about paying in US dollars or Euro, and then I had a very pleasant surprise when I saw the actual charges on my credit card bill =)

#9 | Wine Country

Did you know that Western Australia produces a disproportionally large percentage of Australia’s premium wines? While the most famous region is Margaret River, about a 3-hour drive south of Perth, don’t worry if you don’t have enough time to make that trek. Because there is also a wonderful wine region that is right off of the Perth metro, called Swan Valley, not far from the city center. It’s an easy drive to get there from Perth by car or metro, you can rent bikes and ride around the 32-kilometer loop that links many of the area wineries, or sign up for one of the many food and wine tours of the area. It’s the oldest wine region in Western Australia, and the area now boasts breweries, distilleries, and many excellent purveyors of culinary products – from coffee to honey to lavender.

READ MORE: Best Wineries in Margaret River, Western Australia

#10 | Birds of Every Feather

There are lots of birds all over Perth, but those you’re likely to encounter are the swans, the ravens, and the magpies.

To See: Perth was settled around the Swan River, and you can guess how the river got its name! Especially along the bike and walking paths along the river’s edge in the CBD, you’ll come across both white and black swans, just a short stroll from the heart of the city. While they are beautiful, keep your distance as swans are not the nicest of animals.

To Hear: You’ll hear the ravens before you see them, and as you listen to their repetitive, whiny caw, you’ll wonder how a bird could possibly make such an unpleasant noise. The birds tend to be black and either up in a tree or hopping around along the ground, as long as no people have approached too closely. I had nearly forgotten all about their existence until the first time I heard their distinctive call during my recent trip. There is a lot of green space throughout the city of Perth, so there are plenty of trees where the birds like to nest, and you’ll hear them if you’re walking anywhere in the vicinity.

To Avoid:

Magpies, innocuous-looking black and white birds, can pose quite a danger when defending their urban nesting areas. You’ll need to be cautious during their ‘swooping season’ in September and October, when they can actually cause real damage to humans, especially cyclists. If you’ll be around Perth then, familiarize yourself with tips on staying safe. There is a good overview of what to do and not to do from Australia’s LifeHacker site here.

#11 | Bustling Downtown

Lots of cities have a bustling downtown, but the city of Perth makes it even easier to navigate – for free! There is actually a Free Tansit Zone (FTZ) that encompasses the major swath of downtown. All of the bus lines that cross through the CBD are free so long as you board and leave within the boundaries of the FTZ. There are also several CAT lines (red, blue, yellow, & green) for ‘Central Area Transit’ that loop through the downtown area – and even a bit beyond – that are completely free to ride. This means that during lunchtime on a weekday, local workers don’t typically restrict themselves to the immediate vicinity of their office building, but can be seen riding the buses to hit up the best restaurants for a delicious lunch, all within the time constraints of their lunch break – and for free.

#12 | Fireworks

When I lived in Perth, the first time I was sitting on the couch on a Tuesday evening and heard the explosive noise, I was alarmed and had to take a moment to think. My New Yorker sensibilities suggested that it might be a gunshot or explosion, but then I realized that not only is Australia (and Perth in particular) incredibly safe, but almost nobody owns a gun due to its strict laws. My next thought – could it be fireworks? I rushed out to the balcony to take a look and was delighted to discover a colorful display taking place over the Swan River. Little did I know when choosing an apartment that its view would offer front-row seating for the ridiculously frequent fireworks displays. Fireworks displays happen so often in Perth there’s even a blog dedicated to just that – Why are there fireworks in Perth tonight? So yes, when you visit, if you’re downtown in the early evening, you’ll probably see fireworks. Look up and enjoy the show!

As you can tell, I loved Perth and found it such an interesting place to be able to live. And recently, to come back as a visitor. While Australia if far from many places, it’s quite close to Asia, and a great place to pop into when you’re nearby or set as a destination for a longer trip.

Anything I missed about Perth? Any things that are also “so typical” about where you live? Share in the Comments below!

Travel Savvy Gal

Making the Most of Your Time Away

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