Top Tips to Avoid the Biggest Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

April 18, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Every country has its own way of doing things, and Italy is no exception. While some mistakes tourists make in Italy are part of the adventure of travel, other errors can be very time-consuming or expensive to resolve. When I travel, I try to be aware of the most common pitfalls I could possibly encounter, and do some research to avoid them.

Preparing for a trip to Italy? Here’s what you need to know to make the most of your time there, and avoid the mistakes that many tourists make.

TRAVELING AROUND ITALY

The most efficient way to get around between cities are the high-speed trains, or regional trains for less-travelled routes. The main train companies are TrenItalia and Italo, and both have English versions of their websites available.
If you’re being more flexible with your plans, you can buy your train ticket at the last minute at one of the electronic kiosks, which also offer multiple languages.
Don’t plan on waiting until the last train, as sometimes trains are quite delayed or cancelled.
If you don’t have a person or turnstile taking your ticket, be sure to validate your train ticket before boarding. There is usually a small box on the train platform where you can insert your ticket to validate. Fines can be high if you don’t, and this is something that does get checked relatively frequently.

RESTAURANTS

If there is a particular place you’d like to eat at for lunch or dinner, whether it’s an upscale spot or simply a popular trattoria, make a reservation. You can usually get a reservation the day or two before – or even earlier the same day – but if you show up at dinner time on the night, you might be refused.
Usually the first question when you sit down will be about water, whether you want to drink naturale (still water) or frizzante/gassata (sparkling water), so have an answer ready. Italians don’t drink tap water.
Service may not be as attentive as in your home country, which is simply the Italian way. If there is something you need – including the check – flag someone down and ask.
Some restaurants will bring the bill to the table, others will direct you to pay at the cassa, the cash register.
Typically restaurants include a coperto, a cover charge for service and bread, which is listed on the menu and will show up on your bill.
Tipping is not expected if there is a coperto, although you are welcome to leave small change or an additional tip if you’d like.
Don’t refuse your receipt. By law you must have the receipt for 100 meters after leaving the restaurant (this is to ensure that the restaurant has paid taxes, not that you have paid). Yes, I’ve been chased out of a restaurant by a server after leaving my receipt behind.

BARS

In Italy, “bar” means a place to get coffee and a pastry, although many will serve alcohol as part of aperitivo. Or first thing in the morning, if you ask…
At many bars you pay first, and then show your receipts to the barista to be served.
Traditionally, coffee (and your pastry) is consumed standing at the bar in a few quick minutes. You have the option of sitting at some bars, although it is possible you will be charged a coperto (see ‘Restaurants’ section above) if you do. In touristy areas, this might be exorbitant.
In the evening, the bar that was your morning coffee shop often morphs into your happy hour spot, where you can enjoy an aperitivo, consisting of a pre-dinner drink and some food, which will range from some small nibbles to a full buffet

WINE TOURISM

If you’re wine tasting and would like to buy wine to take home, it helps to have a car to transport the heavy load. Many wineries ship internationally, but prices can be quite high. It can be more cost-effective to pay for extra airline baggage packed with bottles of wine (or utilize your baggage allowance wisely) than to ship them. Plan your wine packing in advance, and you’ll save hundreds of Euros.

MISCELLANEOUS

In the bathroom, when in doubt, look for a foot pedal (or inconspicuous button on the wall) to flush a toilet or operate the faucet to wash your hands. I’ve seen tourists linger in the bathroom for a long time trying to figure this out!

If you’re really committed to blending in during your visit, you’ll also want to check out my post on the Top 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local. But at a minimum, if you follow the tips above, you won’t be caught with an exorbitant fine for not validating your train ticket or be stuck waiting hours for your server to bring the check at the end of your meal. I’ve seen many mistakes tourists make in Italy, but fortunately with a few tips most can be avoided!

What other things did you wish you had known before traveling to Italy? Anything else I should include? How do you avoid the typical tourist mistakes when you travel? Share your best intel in the Comments below!

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Best Eating I’ve Ever Done While Camping: Western Australia’s Southern Forests

April 13, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

What mental image comes to mind when you think of camping? Struggling to feed the long metal stick through the flaps to support your tent? Waking up with a backache after sleeping on uneven ground? Consuming a half-cold bite of food that was heated up over the fire?

Those images certainly conjure some of the camping of my childhood, but I learned over several camping trips with my Perth friends recently that camping Australia-style can actually be quite comfortable with not much additional effort. From easy-to-assemble tents to air mattresses to caravan parks with refreshingly hot showers, it can actually be quite cozy to have a few nights on the road.

Camping can also involve some pretty incredible dining, and I was just wowed at what culinary delights were available as you go south of Perth. My hiking lunches were satisfying sandwiches made from supplies picked up in advance at the supermarket, but my other meals were incredibly wonderful and I still can’t stop raving about how amazing it all was.

Brekky

Brekky, Australian slang for breakfast, can sometimes be the priciest meal of the day. But oh, is it worth it. Aussies know how to make a mean poached egg, and they really unleash their creativity when it comes to Australian breakfast menus. All of the breakfasts I had on this recent camping trip were very different, but equally delicious.

Miami Bakehouse

A bakehouse is basically a casual bakery serving coffee, pastries, and savory pies (or savoury, if you’re British/Aussie). I had visited this award-winning bakehouse for pies back when I lived in Perth, but this trip was my first time there for coffee and breakfast. While it’s a bit pricier than other bakehouses in Western Australia, the food and coffee here is far superior. I had an excellent flat white and pecan tart this trip. It may look casual, but the flavors are incredible!

Lavender & Berry Farm

This spot got visited on a whim for a scenic breakfast, after seeing it as one of the attractions close by. I love lavender in baked goods, so when I saw the Giant Lavender Scone on the menu, there was really no decision to be made. It exceeded my expectations, and the bites with the clotted cream and honey were especially good. Great chai tea as well, and lovely outdoor seating.

Emu Point Cafe

This was the breakfast destination of choice on the final camping morning for its proximity to the caravan park, so there was no advance research or high expectations. After ‘taking a squiz’ (looking) at the breakfast menu, it became apparent that this was going to be a nicer breakfast than your typical, random spot in Western Australia, with some creative combinations. I slowly savored two poached eggs with herb and spicy toppings, garlic yogurt, and the perfect amount of Turkish bread for dipping.

Nibbles

The Truffle & Wine Co.

Let’s be real, I stopped here just to taste wine and truffles (did you know there are truffles in Western Australia?!?). But when another group ordered a truffle tasting plate, I couldn’t resist a snack. What a delicious sampling of bites that provided just the right energy boost for the giant tree climbing and hiking that came afterward. P.S. Their wine is pretty great, too!

Dinner

Foragers

This was the only eatery in this post that was planned in advance, to join the Saturday night dinner experience at this restaurant in Pemberton, with a tasting menu that changes weekly. Produce is local to the specific region, not just Western Australia. And although the dishes may look simple on the sample menus on their website, the dishes are so well-balanced and expertly executed that each bite makes you pause a bit to savor the flavors. It’s worth a weekend trip to Pemberton just to eat this meal!

What’s the best food you’ve ever enjoyed while camping? How do you decide where to eat when you’re on the road? I’d love to hear your tips!

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What You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

April 11, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

As a child, I had heard the legend of driving on the Autobahn, the German highway with no speed limit. It was one of those peculiarities of countries beyond the scope of my wildest dreams, where strange things happened and the rules weren’t quite the same as at home.

Of course, my vivid imagination painted a clear picture of this large oval raceway traversing the country, with six lanes in each direction and cars zooming past at racetrack speeds. Just like car races on TV!

As I grew into adulthood, honestly, my vision of what driving on the Autobahn must be like never actually changed much. I hadn’t visited Germany, and without planning a trip there, I never looked into what life was like in all that much detail. The Germany of my childhood years was caught up in images of Berlin, on the day the Wall fell. No highway image in sight.

And moving to Milan a little over three years ago, I didn’t think all that much about what driving in Germany would be like. At least, until my first summer road trip.

My First Experience Driving in Germany

As the car approached the German border from Luxembourg, to the west, headed toward Frankfurt, I wondered, What would it be like to finally be driving on the Autobahn? There are open borders across the Schengen zone in much of Europe, so it’s not immediately clear which moment I entered Germany, but the first thing I see on the highway is . . . a speed limit sign?!?

Confused? I certainly was. The Autobahn was supposed to be the highway with no rules, where you can drive as fast as you want and basically do what you like. Sums up pretty much all your childhood dreams about adulthood, right? (It certainly was how I always pictured getting older.)

Of course, the realities of driving in Germany on the Autobahn are just a bit different from the carefree dream, much like my illusions about what it’s like to be an adult. And the Germans sure have specific ways of doing things, even on the highway without a speed limit.

So what is it really like driving on the Autobahn??

Things You Need to Know About Driving on the Autobahn

The Autobahn isn’t one special highway with no speed limit, it’s just the German word for highway. Any highway in Germany is an autobahn.

Sign indicating unlimited speed for driving on the autobahn in Germany — Image: Wikimedia Commons

Speed is not always unlimited, only on certain stretches marked by the appropriate sign (the one above!). This was really my initial shock of first driving on the autobahn. Yes, there are some pretty long sections depending on the highway that will have no limit, but there are also plenty of spots that will have a speed limit for quite a while. Of course, your best bet is to have driving stretches far away from the city to really get the full autobahn driving experience.

A lot of highways in Germany are what I would consider pretty regular roads through the countryside, with just two lanes in each direction. The first word that came to mind when driving on a German autobahn was dinky. The ‘highway’ wasn’t particularly impressive and certainly did not seem set up for driving at unlimited speeds, especially the ones that have only two lanes in each direction and no guardrail. Don’t get me wrong, highways in Germany are well-paved and a very smooth ride even at top speeds, but there is nothing futuristic or particularly modern-looking about it.

Even when the speed limit is unlimited for extended stretches, it still slows to 120 kilometers per hour (75miles/hour) at major interchanges along the way. Yes, now that I think about it, it makes complete sense that you would need to be going at a reasonable pace if you wanted any chance of making the exit to another highway without veering off the exit ramp. But this means that even if you have several straight hours driving on an autobahn, every time you cross another major road, you’ll be slowing down considerably. So it’s more of an ebb and flow of speeding along and ‘normal’ highway driving than a continuous racetrack atmosphere.

When you’re driving 250 km/h and have to suddenly slow to 120 km/h it feels like . . . coming to a complete stop. Again, one of those things that makes sense. Of course going from 120 or 130 km/h to 0 km/hr is not so different from the deceleration from 250 to 120. But I don’t think I ever expected shifting my speed *down to* 80 miles per hour would feel like standing still. But it does. And it’s such an interesting sensation.

If you’re speeding through the left lane and a car decides to jump out and pass the car ahead, you must slow down (sometimes very rapidly!) so you don’t have an accident. At least with upcoming interchanges, you get signs and a bit of a warning that you are about to undergo a major slowdown. You can prepare mentally, and perhaps start slowing down a bit early so the shift is not as jarring. When a car doesn’t look first – or doesn’t care – that you are hurtling through the left lane, and it just wants to pass the slightly slower car or truck ahead, it will jump out suddenly. And to avoid a collision, that leaves you scrambling to slow down as quickly as possible.

And even if an accident is not your fault, you can be held liable for at least some of the cost if you are going faster than typical autobahn defaults speeds of 120-130 km/h. Believe me, I had this little tidbit drilled into my head long before I ever got behind the wheel to drive on an unlimited speed section of an autobahn. One of the (fairly logical) consequences of the privilege of driving as fast as you’d like, is that it also comes with the responsibility of being a safe driver. So for an accident that might have been able to avoided had you been going normal highway speed, you may be culpable financially for the damages.

The experience driving in Germany at top speeds is exhilarating! For me, maxing out the car’s engine when I see that unlimited speed sign involves a complete shift in driving. I sit up in my seat for maximum visibility of the road, and start to feel the adrenaline rush that comes with the anticipation and watching the speedometer climb. I lean imperceptibly forward and feel a heightened sense of awareness as I try to watch cars in the lane to my right. I spend the entire time on edge so I can see when someone jumps in front of me the exact moment it happens, to give my reflexes that extra fraction of a second to react. I feel the energy and exhilaration of whizzing by other cars, hurtling toward my destination at twice the normal speed. And I blare the radio to something with a fast beat, mirroring the car’s cadence. Honestly, it feels like a scene out of a movie, and all my sense are heightened as the car propels itself at rocket speeds along the highway.

Being on a German autobahn doesn’t make you immune to traffic. Nothing is more depressing than driving on the autobahn at top speeds, and then having to slow down or stop for traffic. Yes folks, you read that right, sometimes you are stopped on the autobahn. I’ve been caught before in autobahn traffic jam in which I was at a complete stop for nearly an hour! The joy of driving on a highway with no speed limit gets a bit trampled on when you’re too stuck in traffic to be able to drive at all. Unfortunately this is the nature of traffic jams in Europe, and something to be prepared for on the autobahn. Traffic can also be less dramatic, and just involve slow sections with a high volume of cars on the road, in which case there is no room to go fast and you’re relegated to the flow of the road.

If it gets too hot in summer, speed is likely going to be limited. I know that summer is prime vacation time to visit Europe, so if that is when you’re planning your German holiday, that is also when you’re probably planning to try out autobahn driving for the first time. Some heatwaves over the past few summers had an impact I hadn’t previously considered – that extreme heat coupled with cars going at top speeds can cause some serious damage to the roadway. Sections of the autobahn buckled and cracked, and speed limits were reduced accordingly in both 2015 and 2016. If you’re planning a trip in summer, be aware that speed limits might be imposed in sections that normally have an unlimited speed, if the temperatures climb too high.

The view of the landscape is incredible. For a lot of German autobahn driving, you’re far outside any main cities and taking in views of the lush countryside, especially in spring and summer when everything is in bloom. At top speeds, it’s passing quite fast, but the nice part about the sections with a speed limit is that you actually get to see and appreciate Germany’s beauty. A lot more scenic than many other drives I’ve done.

And in the end, going so fast has a real impact on your petrol usage and gas mileage (kilometrage?), so most drivers don’t try to push their cars’ absolute limits when it comes to speed. Yes, if you are driving fast on the open road of a German autobahn, you probably won’t be the only one zooming along, but from what I’ve seen, most Germans seem to stick to a speed of around 150-160 km/h (90-100 mph) on the highway’s unlimited stretches. Faster than you’re typically allowed to go, but definitely a practical not-super-fast speed where you retain a lot of control and don’t have to make huge speed adjustments every time an interchange approaches.

In the end, I found that autobahn driving wasn’t all that different from any other highway driving I’ve done anywhere in the world.

With just a few differences of course when the speed becomes unlimited, especially if you choose on the open stretches to go as fast as your car will take you. And certainly, if driving at breakneck speeds puts abject panic in your heart, you could drive on the autobahn only a bit faster than the way you drive on highways at home. And not be too out of place.

What’s the fastest you’ve ever gone in a car? Have you driven on the German Autobahn before? Any other things that surprised you about driving in Germany? Or tips you’d give to someone driving on the Autobahn for the first time? Share away in the Comments below.

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The Wine Regions I Visited Most Often Living in Italy: Valpolicella and Soave

April 6, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Valpolicella and Soave are two of my favorite Italian wine regions, and conveniently both are a short distance outside the inviting Italian town of Verona, not far from Venice. The Valpolicella region to the north of Verona specializes in various red wines with a unique production method, while the Soave region to the east produces some lovely white wines. Most consider the Italian wine regions of Piedmont and Tuscany to be the two areas with the best producers, especially for Italian reds. While both of those regions are relatively close to Milan, it was actually the Valpolicella region where I ended up most often during my three years living in Italy, usually with visitors.

The reds of Valpolicella are in a slightly different style than Super Tuscans or a Piemontese Barolo, but can be more fruity and jammy, and in general more approachable. And I know several wine lovers whose favorite Italian reds come from this area, and these are certainly some of my favorites as well. Since the wine regions around Verona are less frequented by tourists than some of the other areas, it is easier to pop into a cantina without a reservation and taste wine. And you can find delicious wines at a great value, I’d definitely recommend planning to purchase wine as you taste, and having a plan for transporting the bottles back home.

In terms of the Valpolicella region, you’ll typically see 4 main types of red wine as well as a dessert wine called Recioto. All of these are made with different combinations and processing methods of the same main grapes: Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella (and sometimes Corvinone). The first, most basic wine is called Valpolicella Classico, the classic version that is not usually aged at all. The Valpolicella Superiore, or superior version, does undergo some aging, and is intended to be a more refined version of Valpolicella.

The fourth wine (yes, I skipped #3 on purpose) called Amarone is where the typical drying process of the Valpolicella region comes into play. When the grapes are harvested in the fall, usually around September or October, instead of being pressed right away, they are spread out and left to dry for several months, which intensifies the flavor of the grapes. Then sometime around January the grapes will actually be pressed and begin the multi-year aging process. Ripasso then is partway between a Valpolicella Superiore and an Amarone, since it involves the leftover pressed grapes from Amarone being mixed with Valpolicella Classico wine. The dessert wine Recioto is more similar to the straight Amarone, with residual sugars for sweetness (and this can vary from quite sweet to more balanced depending on the producer).

You might think that because of the somewhat linear progression of red wine production in Valpolicella, that everyone would like Amarone the best, then Ripasso, and so on. But that’s actually not how things shake out at all! Even without taking external factors like winery and the harvest year into play, some wine lovers prefer Ripasso while others prefer Amarone, depending on their personal tastes. Then when you consider the year of production and each winemaker’s approach, your favorite at a particular winery might be the Valpolicella Classico or Superiore. It all depends.

Which is why I advocate for doing a wine tasting when you visit, even if you’ve been before, since you may prefer different wines than last time (even at the same winery). Usually with each visit I was trying the wines from a different production year, and I’ve made repeat visits to most of the wineries on this list. So I’ve tasted different versions of the same wine over the years depending on what has recently been bottled and is available. Even at the same producer, my tastes as to which wines are my favorite have typically changed with each season. So taste before you buy, every time you go.

That same advice holds true for the Soave region on the other side of Verona: taste during each visit, as the wine changes quite a bit from year to year, even at the same producer. Soave itself is a white wine made principally from the Garganega grape, although other white grapes are sometimes included in small amounts. Like with Valpolicella reds, there are different levels of Soave – including a Superiore – depending on whether it is aged and the details of the blend.

Many Soave wineries also have vineyards in the area growing red grapes as well, so even if you go to taste white wines, you’ll be able to try their various Valpolicella reds as well. You don’t see much Soave wine in Valpolicella, although some of those wineries will produce other types of white wine. And a recent trend in the Valpolicella region is to use the same Amarone process of drying the grapes for months, but with different types of red grapes than you’d typically see, resulting in some of my favorite sips.

I’ve had some pretty fabulous wine tastings in the Valpolicella and Soave regions over my many visits. Here are my favorite places to go, listed alphabetically by region:

Valpolicella

Accordini Igino

Reservations: Not needed Mon-Fri, Required on Saturday

Tasting: Free, can also reserve a paid tasting paired with local food products

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

The staff is friendly and welcoming at this nearly 200-year old winery, with a light and inviting tasting room. The red wines typical of the region are solid, and they produce a few other white and red wines. I especially like their Recioto dessert wine, which isn’t sickly sweet but actually quite well-balanced.

Manara

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Bianco del Veneto, Rosso del Veneto, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

If you’re a non-Italian speaker, be sure to contact the winery in advance, as the one person in the tasting room does not always speak English. Their Valpolicella range is quite good, as is their Bianco del Veneto, or white wine from the region. But my absolute favorite, and the wine I can’t get enough of is their Rosso del Veneto, a jammy red produced from non-typical grapes in the Valpolicella style of drying the grapes first to intensify the flavors. Even if it’s not offered, be sure to ask to taste this gem, the Guido Manara!

Scriani

Reservations: Not needed

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Corvina Veronese, Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Amarone, Recioto

This family-run winery is welcoming, and has a beautiful tasting room and cellar where you’ll taste the wines. I think I’ve visited at least three or four times, and I like their wines better each time I go. Their straight Corvina is quite good, along with the full line of Valpolicella wines.

Speri

Reservations: Not needed, although there is the option to book in advance to visit the cellar

Tasting: Free

Varietals: Valpolicella Classico, Valpolicella Superiore, Ripasso, Sant’Urbano, Amarone, Recioto

Another family-run place, there are usually several people on hand to provide a tasting, and I’ve never had to wait more than a few minutes for an English-speaking member of the family to guide me and my visitors. The wines are excellent, and I especially like their Sant’Urbano, which is partway between a Ripasso and an Amarone in taste. They have an excellent annual olive oil production for the family, with excess bottles on sale at the winery, so take advantage if they’re still available when you go.

Soave

Cantina di Soave

Reservations: Recommended

Tasting: Typically organized as a group tour and tasting of 5 wines, for a modest fee

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

Founded in the late 1800s, this cantina, or winery, is actually a collective of grape producers from the area, with all grapes having to meet minimum quality requirements to be used in their production. You’ll only taste a handful of wines at the end of the tour, but they are delicious, and the winery offers a wider range of wines for purchase in their shop. And the winery itself is quite beautiful.

Monte Tondo

Reservations: Not needed, although it does get crowded sometimes; must reserve for tour

Tasting: Free, fee for the tour + tasting

Varietals: Soave of different production types and aging, a variety of Valpolicella red wines

The experience visiting Monte Tondo without a reservation has been varied for me, depending on the number of other guests. If it’s not crowded, you’ll get very attentive pours and descriptions, and it can be more rushed if you’re there during a busy period or when there is a group also visiting. It’s still a good option to drop in and sample a variety of Soave whites, although there is the possibility of guaranteeing dedicated attention by reserving a formal tour and tasting with cheese and charcuterie pairing for a fee.

TIP! Other than the dates of Cantine Aperte in May and September, most wineries are closed on Sundays.

If you’ve never tried a Valpolicella red wine or a Soave white, buy a bottle (or several) to try the next time you’re at the store. And if you’re planning a trip to Italy or happen to live nearby, the wine regions around Verona are fabulous spots to go wine tasting, even if you haven’t planned anything in advance.

Happy tasting!

Lana

Any questions you still have about wine tasting in Valpolicella and Soave? Other favorite wineries you think belong on this list? Hit me up with any questions or intel you have about the region and its wines in the ‘Comments’ below.

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The Best Advice to Travel More

April 4, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

“Oh, but we were going to come visit you.”

It’s a refrain I’ve heard again and again since moving back to the US from Milan, coming from many sources, from one of my sisters to friends I didn’t even know were contemplating a trip. Apparently all of these people had the best of intentions of making a trip to Italy for a visit, but never quite got around to it.

In Australia, I understood. Living in Perth for just over a year, it was hard for my American family and friends to plan a visit. From the northeast United States, it’s about 30 hours of flying – one way! – to arrive in Perth. By the time anyone could have reasonably planned a trip, I was no longer living there.

But Milan was a different story. Easily accessible by a direct flight from the US, it was pretty straightforward for Americans to plan a visit. In fact, over my three years living in Milan, visitors came from all over the United States, other parts of Europe, Asia, and even Australia (those Aussies sure love to travel).

So how is it possible that with guests streaming in from multiple continents that so many people did not make it for a visit?

The short answer? They failed to adhere to an important principle that avid travelers embrace: Just go.

There are always a million and one reasons *not* to take that trip. From the cost of traveling to taking time off of work, there are all sorts of logical-sounding justifications as to why that vacation just can’t happen. People with children complain that they can’t travel with them and that they’re too young to leave behind. Of course, my position is that you should travel anyway. Especially if you happen to know someone living in a place you’ve never visited.

If there’s anything I’ve learned in my years of travel (and having friends move to different cities and countries), it’s that even when people think they know how long they’ll be living somewhere, they usually don’t. Life happens, jobs change, people transfer universities, and move for love. Often unexpectedly and sometimes suddenly.

Which brings me to the best travel advice I can give:

When you have a friend or family member that moves to a new place, VISIT. As soon as you can.

I loved living and Milan and Italy, and am sad that more friends who had been meaning to take that trip to visit me one day did not get the opportunity while I was still there. Of course, you can always visit a destination even if you no longer know someone living there, but the experience will just not be the same. I say that it’s worth prioritizing travel to a new place when you know someone who lives there and that knowing a local will help keep costs down. I say that you can come with or without your kids, but you should still plan to go. So if you’ve been talking about visiting that friend who moved somewhere new (but you just haven’t gotten around to it), yes, I’m talking to you!

There are many upsides to visiting friends and family that have moved somewhere new. First, knowing someone in your destination can make your trip more affordable. Even if you have to shell out for a train ride or airfare to arrive, you’ll get more bang for your buck once you get there, especially if you can stay overnight with friends or family for free. Or share home-cooked meals together, eliminating the expense of eating out for at least part of your visit. Plus, while you’re there, you’ll have a local to show you around, getting an insider perspective on a destination, even if they are a transplant to the area and still exploring themselves.

When I have a friend who moves to a new place, I’m the kind of person who immediately starts strategizing about how to travel there. Especially if I know at the start that they may not live there for very long. It’s a great excuse to make it for a visit to a new destination and wonderful to share that with someone you already know.

There were the extended weekends I took while living in the US before to visit friends in Dallas and Minneapolis (and good thing I did, as neither stayed for longer than a few years). Before the start of my 5-week solo travel in Mexico, I visited a friend for a few days who was temporarily living in Mexico City. Even during college, I jumped on a plane and visited friends who were studying abroad in London and Amsterdam.

Living in Italy these past few years, I popped in to stay for a weekend with friends who I met in Milan that later moved on to live in London, Frankfurt, Geneva, and Tirana. I made it a priority to get to see Bucharest and some surrounding parts of Romania with a friend who’s from there originally. As well as visiting Hong Kong, Israel, and Singapore while friends and relatives were living there.

So, who of my friends and family did the same, and actually made it to Milan while I was there?

There wasn’t a single type of visitor. Friends visited solo and as couples, some friends came with their kids, while others with children left their kids behind in their grandparents’ care. Friends came who had high-powered jobs they had stepped away from as well as teacher friends who were off for the summer. Some visitors came as part of a trip to celebrate an anniversary or other milestone and others just jumped on dates when they saw the latest flight deal to Milan. Plenty of people visited (which I loved!) but there were also plenty who did not.

How can YOU make traveling to visit friends living in new places a reality?

It’s not that complicated, I swear! Of course you need to know where friends and family are living, and be willing to actually plan your visit, but beyond that it doesn’t take much. A little bit of organization goes a long way, and there’s really not much that separates me popping in on friends all over and those who stay home and wish they had taken that trip.

Here are a few pretty simple things to keep in mind to put good intentions into action:

Stay in touch with friends and family, and know where people are. If you already know all of the cool places where you know someone, you’re ahead of the curve!
Lock down dates on the calendar for a visit. Yes, life gets crazy sometimes and people have different work and travel schedules, so sometimes coordination can be tricky. It helps to start asking early so you can block off time that is good for both of you.NOTE: This is where a lot of travel planning falls apart. You ask about dates, your e-mail gets buried in someone’s inbox, and then you forget to follow up. Happens all the time, myself included. So when you send your initial message, jot down a quick note to follow up in a few days or a week if you haven’t heard anything, that way a date for visiting actually gets set at some point without falling by the wayside.
Even if someone tells you they expect to be somewhere for a few years or longer, still plan your trip ASAP. In my experience, people often think they know about timing, but life is too unexpected to wait. If they’re really there as long as they expect and you had a good time on your first visit, you can always plan a return trip later 😉
Be a good guest! At a minimum, do whatever amount of advance planning is needed so you’re not a burden on your generous host. Depending on work schedules and children or other commitments, hosts may have the flexibility to spend every minute with you or may need to send you off exploring on your own at different points in time. Come prepared.

For me now, some of my new travel priorities are based on where I know people and can get to relatively easily from my current home in Baltimore. There is the weekend I hope to spend in Detroit, Michigan sometime soon, where a friend recently moved and I’ve never been. Along with getting to Denver, Colorado, where my sister expects to move soon. It will be new to me, as I’ve only transited in the airport before. I want to be sure to catch them, so those are both trips I hope to take in the next six months or so.

Where do you have (or will have) friends and family living? Make a plan to go!

And friends – if you’ve never been to Baltimore, come visit. I don’t have any plans to leave, but hey, you never know =)

How do you plan where you’ll visit next? Have you ever visited a new place just because of a friend or relative who moved there? What’s your best piece of advice to get out there and take that next trip? Share away in the Comments below!

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What It’s Like to Go Up Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, World’s Tallest Building

March 30, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

Honestly, I wasn’t expecting to enjoy Dubai.

I knew Dubai was highly commercialized, a city that was constantly focused on building the latest modern skyscraper and where foreigners outnumber locals by a margin of around 10 to 1. I had transited through before, but never left the airport. But this trip, with my Emirates airline status on the verge of expiring, I figured it was worth it to finally spend a few days in the city. If nothing else, I could take in the spectacle. Plus, my sister who joined me for the week-long road trip in Oman was interested in visiting as well.

What I didn’t expect? Getting caught up in the sense of wonder, feeling like a child in awe of seeing something incredible for the first time.

In a way, it felt as if I had never seen a city or tall buildings before, because Dubai was a city like none I’d ever seen. Even visiting the Empire State Building and World Trade Center as a young kid, I had a sense ahead of time of what to expect. So while I was impressed by the sheer stature of those New York landmarks of my childhood, they looked like buildings I had seen before, just taller versions.

Dubai’s Burj Khalifa, the world’s current tallest building, is different. Instead of a square or rectangular base, each floor is shaped like the letter Y with curved edges. The outer silhouette has sections of tower reaching staggered heights, producing an aesthetically pleasing effect. It sparkles with a silver sheen during the day, and projects colored lights at night. It is quite simply, a work of art.

The Burj Khalifa is also impressively high. It dwarfs the next tallest buildings and radio towers in the world by a healthy margin. Its height noticeably exceeds Dubai’s surrounding cityscape. In fact, the Burj Khalifa is so high that people on the uppermost floors must wait several additional minutes to break the Ramadan fast compared to the rest of Dubai, because they have a few extra minutes of sunlight each day!!

Fortunately as a modern skyscraper, in addition to its commercial and residential spaces, the Burj Khalifa also offers spaces for your average tourist: The Observation Decks.

Despite the hefty price tag, I had a wonderful experience lingering and taking in the views from the Observation Decks. So much so, that my sister had to practically tear me away when she started getting hungry for dinner and I was still standing outside, happily mesmerized by the lights of the city.

Do I recommend that you visit the Burj Khalifa while you’re in Dubai? Absolutely. But there are definitely things that are helpful to know in advance, including what to expect during your time on the observation decks. Read on for all the details…

Buying Tickets

First, visiting the Burj Khalifa will be busier at certain times that you should avoid, if possible. In the Middle East, the weekend falls on Friday and Saturday, so plan your visit for another day of the week if you can. And of course Dubai as a whole will have more visitors during typical holiday times like around Christmas and New Year’s.

If you have limited time in Dubai and have only a small window to visit the Burj Khalifa, you’ll probably want to purchase your tickets in advance online here for your desired time slot. Internet purchase of tickets is also a good option during the busiest tourist periods to avoid extra queuing.

If you’re uncertain about your schedule while in Dubai (and it’s not the winter school break), purchasing tickets in person is a feasible option as well. My sister and I bought our tickets in person, about an hour before our scheduled time. When you arrive, there is one line for those who already have tickets and are waiting to enter and a different line to purchase tickets, so be sure you’ve joined the correct one.

As for admission, this is where it gets a bit complicated. There are two main types of tickets, ones for “At the Top SKY” and others for “At the Top.” The basic “At the Top” tickets grant you access to the Level 125 Observation Deck and the exhibits on Level 124. The “At the Top SKY” ticket also offers access to the Observation Deck on Level 148, followed by the same levels as the basic one.

There is also a big price difference for prime hours, when tickets within each tier are more expensive. For Level 125, prime hours are only between 15:30-18:00, with entry times both before and after being considered non-prime. For the top Observation Deck on Level 148, prime hours all day until 18:00, with non-prime prices only kicking in after 6pm.

So, what did we do? My sister and I figured that this would be our one and only visit to the Burj Khalifa, so opted for “At the Top SKY” with access to Level 148. Although we did wait until after 6pm so we could get the discounted non-prime prices.

And yes, the view is *different* up there! Level 148’s observation deck is about 100 meters (over 300 feet) higher than the one on Level 125, so offers a bit of a different perspective on the city. It’s also far less crowded due to the higher ticket price, so it was much more pleasant to stroll around outside and far easier to get pictures of the view.

Entering the Burj Khalifa

The entrance to the Burj Khalifa is found inside the Dubai Mall, which is easily accessible on the Dubai metro system. Although be warned, the walk from the metro station to the mall is long, and then it’s a bit more walking to arrive at the Burj Khalifa entrance, so leave plenty of extra time to arrive. Taking into account, of course, that you’re meant to be there a bit before your scheduled time.

The line for entering can be easily confused with the separate line for buying tickets, so be sure you’ve joined the correct queue. And then you’re let past the entranceway and the full Burj Khalifa experience begins!

There are a few displays about the construction of the Burj Khalifa, and then you are ushered into a staging room where they distract you briefly with coffee and dates.

Coffee and dates are an essential part of Middle Eastern hospitality. Sip and enjoy if you’d like, although honestly these were not the best versions of either item during my travels in the Middle East. Plus, if you’re doing the SKY experience that takes you to Level 148 like we did, I’d say it’s worth waiting for the refreshments at the top.

The best part of the lead-up to the Observation Deck for me was the elevator. When was the last time you were in an elevator where the floors went above 150?!? Although Level 148 was our destination, our elevator had floors listed up to 154.

Level 148: “At the Top SKY”

Arriving at the SKY level on floor 148 is like entering your own private gala. Well-attired servers are circulating, and within moments of arriving they’ll offer you selections from a tray of snacks and a tasty (non-alcoholic, of course) beverage. My choices? A vanilla mini-macaroon and a date stuffed with marzipan. Very delicious, and I felt oh-so-chic.

If you’re like me, after the food serves as a brief distraction, you’ll be drawn to the floor-to-ceiling windows to check out the view. Your initial disappointment that the windows are not particularly clean and in the way of the view will fall by the wayside as you realize that the outdoor observation decks are where it’s at! The glass is quite clear there and you’ll have fabulous vistas over Dubai in all directions as you stroll the length of the outdoor areas.

I think the total visit for us lasted around 2 hours, and a good hour-and-a-half of that time was spent on the outdoor observation area on Level 148. It’s captivating, and I couldn’t get enough!

TIP! It is chilly at the top. Even if it’s sweltering at ground level, you’re so high up it can get cold (especially at night) and it can also be windy since you’re several hundred meters in the air. Bring layers of clothing, so you’re not tempted to cut your enjoyment of the outdoor areas short.

In addition to the stunning views (and lots of people striking a pose, us included), we also had the good fortune to be on this outdoor area when the light show began after dark. It’s fascinating in a completely different way to be up close and personal as the lights move and change color along the building itself.

Level 125: “At the Top”

The next part of the visit (whenever you manage to tear yourself away) takes you down to Level 125, which will be your initial destination if you opt for the more basic ticket. The outdoor space is larger than on 148, but it is also much more crowded. And as I mentioned, even though you might not expect it, being so many floors down offers a different perspective and view of the city.

The bulk of the exhibits are between Levels 125 with the outdoor area and Level 124, which is accessible with both ticket options. Just when we expected to be at the end of things to see, there was one more turn, one more area to explore, before heading back down to ground level.

Yes, this queen of getting ‘hangry’ delayed dinner to be able to have one last glimpse – or let’s be real, several – of the captivating view from the observation deck (apologies to my poor sister!). Ascending the Burj Khalifa was a carefully curated visit that I found worth it for the unparalleled views of Dubai, resulting in an incredible overall experience that goes far beyond crossing an item off my bucket list.

Have you been to Dubai? Were you as wowed as I was? What other tips do you have for someone visiting the Burj Khalifa for the first time?

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10 Amazing Things You Probably Didn’t Know about Stockholm

March 28, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

I consider myself an avid and fairly knowledgeable traveler, yet on my first trip to Stockholm last year for a blogging conference, I realized how woefully inadequate my knowledge of Stockholm and Sweden really was. Other than devouring The Girl with a Dragon Tattoo book series that is set there, what did I really know about the city?

Scandinavia for me, even when I was living in Europe, was always put off as a travel destination because there were cities I could get to for cheaper for a weekend escape. Unless I was going skiing or to see the northern lights, winter was probably not the right season for a trip, and the timing never seemed to be right during summer. Although after having visited Stockholm in July, I now think that Stockholm would be even better to visit outside of summer, maybe during the spring or fall.

Perhaps because I had so few expectations, was Stockholm able to surprise me with so many quirks and unexpected twists of history that crossed the city’s path. From sights and foods that I had no clue about, to observations about the city and Swedes in general, I left with a whole new appreciation for Stockholm. Compiling this list is making me yearn for a return visit, and will make you want to visit as soon as you can!

Some things that surprised me…

#1 | Stockholm is a City on Water

When I say this, I don’t mean that Stockholm has a river running down the middle. The whole city is made of up islands! It’s not the only city with this moniker, but many refer to Stockholm as the ‘Venice of the North.’ Stockholm is made up of a bunch of 14 islands and 57 bridges, all of which compose part of Sweden’s largest archipelago. I loved crossing the bridges on foot to move between the sights on the different islands, and there are some stunning views across the water, as you can see. I really was clueless on this one before my visit, so don’t feel bad if you were, too! I always pictured Scandinavian cities as having quaint buildings in close proximity, but I was totally unprepared to visit a city I thought of as being squarely on land that instead had waterways seemingly everywhere you looked.

#2 | What’s the currency?

I’m used to handling currency with the faces of serious historical figures or past presidents, prime ministers, and royalty. Sweden? They put Swedish figures of all flavors on their money, from movie stars to authors, including multiple women! Pictured above is the 20 kronor note is Astrid Lindgren, author of Pippi Longstocking (who you can also see pictured on the bill if you look closely). Other current banknotes in circulation depict Greta Garbo and Ingmar Bergman. But as cool as the cash is (to me as a foreigner, anyway), there is a strong move toward using cards and not cash. Credit cards are accepted pretty much everywhere, for any size transaction, and some places won’t even take cash! Check out that sign above from Fotografiska, a Stockholm photography museum that won’t accept cash for its admission.

#3 | The World’s Longest Art Exhibit

I’ve seen art in metro stations before, but the sheer scope of the art in Stockholm’s 110 kilometers of subway stops has led to it being called the ‘World’s Longest Art Exhibit.’ Originally conceived as a way to bring art to the people, over 90 of Stockholm’s 100 subway stations have artists’ works, each specifically designed for the station and covering many different themes and types of art. This gallery with photographs of different station art gives a sense of how colorful and varied the artists’ approaches have been over the years, and in some cases, how the final artwork is an all-encompassing experience for those passing through the station.

#4 | Stockholm Resurrected a Ship After Over 300 Years at the Bottom of the Sea

The most famous shipwreck I had never heard of before? The 1628 sinking of the Vasa warship just over a kilometer after it departed on its maiden voyage. You might wonder if it was under attack or perhaps had struck something and then sunk? Nope. Covered in cannons, the boat was a bit top-heavy, and tragically tipped over and sunk after some wind gusts caused water to gush in and the ship couldn’t right itself. Many onlookers had crowded Stockholm’s shores to see the ship off, so the tragedy was witnessed by many, with 30 of the crew perishing in the accident. After several failed attempts at the time to recover the ship, it lay nearly forgotten until centuries later.

The 1^st cool thing – Sweden raised the ship after 333 years! This was no small feat, as they raised the entire ship, not just bringing up the sections piecemeal. The 2^nd cool thing – how they preserved the ship once it was recovered. Apparently you can’t just take a ship out of water after several hundred years and expect it to be like new. For 17 straight years, the ship was continuously hosed with a special solution to keep it preserved and prevent cracking as it dried. The combination of the brackish water (not quite as salty as an ocean) and cold temperatures meant that when the ship was raised, its contents were incredibly well-preserved. Apparently the waters surrounding Stockholm were also quite polluted during that time, keeping away many of the critters that would have otherwise consumed the wood. And today you get to visit the continued preservation home of the Vasa ship, where you can see the intricate wood ornamentation up close at Stockholm’s Vasa Museum, constructed around the ship.

#5 | Behold, the Cardamom Bun

Sure, you’ve heard of a cinnamon bun, and maybe even knew from visiting your local IKEA store that cinnamon buns are a Swedish thing. What you probably didn’t realize is that when you are in Stockholm the more common (and in my opinion, more delicious) sweet bun is actually the cardamom bun. If you’re not familiar, cardamom is an aromatic spice that shows up in chai tea and that I’ve only ever used before for cooking Indian recipes like curry. So what on earth is it doing as the main spice to accompany the sweets enjoyed during fika, the Swedish coffee break?

Legend has it that cardamom was introduced to Scandinavia by the Vikings quite some time ago, and now cardamom is all the rage in breads and other pastries there. I had at least 1 cardamom bun a day while I was in Stockholm, and they are just the right mixture of savory and sweet for me. After all of my reckless consumption research, check out my post on the Best Bites in Stockholm for where I enjoyed my favorite version.

#6 | Swedes take Design Very Seriously

For many, IKEA is synonymous with Swedish design and with good reason. The company’s streamlined approach has made millions of people all across the world familiar with assembling an IKEA bookshelf or table. It’s not just the result of a designer making a pretty drawing, though. As you can see above, the steps of a homemaker were traced and recorded, leading to the design of an IKEA kitchen that would be as efficient as possible. There is also a sense of design even in the public spaces around Stockholm. From outside gathering areas to the quotes you can see above that were interwoven into street pavement, it is all about the little touches and detail that enhance your everyday experience.

#7 | Sweden was Neutral During World War II, But Played an Important Role

Since Sweden was officially neutral during the Second World War, I don’t think I had given much thought to any role it might have had. However, there are many reminders around the city of Stockholm of ways that Sweden played a part. During the war, Sweden gave asylum to nearly 1,000 Norwegian Jews and accepted (and saved) nearly the entire Danish Jewish population after Denmark became occupied by the Nazis. And commemorated in the Stockholm memorial pictured above is Raoul Wallenberg, a Swedish diplomat stationed in Budapest during the war who issued protective passports to tens of thousands of Jews there. He was supposedly captured by the Soviets before the end of the war, and never resurfaced, with a formal declaration of death only just being issued in late 2016.

#8 | Nobel’s Legacy in Stockholm

I follow the hoopla surrounding the Nobel prize winners each year, but I don’t think it clicked that with the exception of the Nobel Peace Prize (which is given in Oslo, Norway) all of the other prizes are awarded in Stockholm. The annual banquet is held at Stockholm City Hall, and you can visit the Hall there that serves as the current venue for the illustrious meal. Stockholm also boasts a Nobel Museum that I visited, with many significant objects on display that past prize winners donated and information about their contributions. Honestly, the museum was quite outdated, but I geeked out anyway. And for any future visits, a major modernization effort for the museum is currently in the works.

#9 | Gourmet Hot Dogs Everywhere You Turn

I was ready for the Swedish food – cinnamon buns, meatballs, cured salmon, lingonberry jam, but . . . hot dogs?!? And we’re not just talking one or two different varieties, here. Many vendors I saw had dozens of different varieties of Swedish hot dog or korv, each with its own unique blend of spices combined with different types of meat. Korv definitely made my list of ‘Unexpected Foods to Seek Out in European Cities’ and with the perfect spicy, meat blend on a toasted baguette and the right mix of condiments, this also ended up being one of the best things I ate during my visit. Head to my post on Stockholm’s Best Bites for where I enjoyed the best hot dog of the trip.

#10 | A Whole Museum Dedicated to ABBA

ABBA, the 70s pop group that took the world by storm with chart toppers like “Mamma Mia” and “Dancing Queen,” formed in Stockholm. So I guess it shouldn’t have come as a surprise that there is an entire museum dedicated to not only their music, but the outrageous outfits and good time that they inspired. Entering immediately transports you to the 70s, with bell bottoms and bright colored lights everywhere you look. It’s hugely interactive, from karaoke opportunities to starring in your own music video where you get to dance along to the ABBA hits. And if you’re like me, the catchy tunes will be swirling around in your head for days afterward.

It’s not often that a city surprises me as much as Stockholm did. Some of the things I discovered might have come up in more thorough research before my trip, but other items on my list I feel like I only would have learned by visiting and exploring in person. The beauty of travel =)

What was the last travel destination that caught *you* by surprise? Anything else that surprised you about Stockholm that didn’t make my list? Share in the ‘Comments’ below.

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Bath: A Great Weekend Trip from London

March 23, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

The town of Bath, an easy train ride from London, lived up to and far exceeded my mental picture of what it would be like to spend a few days in a quaint British town. Trying to coordinate visiting two different friends in London this past fall (and seeing an NFL game in London in the process!) I ended up with two packed weekends and no plans in between. Which didn’t seem like the worst outcome to me, especially since the value of the pound had fallen quite a bit by then following the Brexit vote. So it just became a matter of how I would spend the days in between.

I’ve been to London a number of times, but have never really ventured much outside of the city (other than visiting Stonehenge back in 2007). After polling a bunch of British friends, the most frequent suggestion I received was to go to the town of Bath. The site of the only natural hot springs in the United Kingdom, if the town was good enough to be beloved by the Roman Empire, surely I could find a few things to do over a couple of days in town. Plus, although I didn’t realize this before making my plans, the entire town of Bath is a UNESCO World Heritage site.

In the end, Bath really wowed me, and I felt like I had a variety of interesting things to do, time to relax, and ate some really great food along the way. Bath is also a popular family destination, and my time there was quite crowded as it coincided with a school holiday week (who knew that ‘half-term’ was a cause for vacation?). So if I fell in love with the town on a busy week, just imagine how much you’ll love it when you go.

Things to Do

Around Town

Bath Abbey

Located in the town’s central pedestrian area, the Abbey is not to be missed. The interior is filled with high arches and colors streaming in through the stained glass windows, but even more intriguing is the Tower Tour that will take you to the hidden stairwells, the bell ringing chamber, and onto the roof for excellent views in all directions.

Jane Austen House

Although I did not visit, I’m including the Jane Austen House on my list because it is one of Bath’s most popular attractions. Jane Austen lived in Bath for five years, and while she supposedly did not like it, she did end up setting two of her novels in Bath – Persuasion and Northanger Abbey. The house has period furnishings and tells of Jane’s time in Bath.

The Roman Baths

Once the Romans discovered the natural thermal springs of Bath, they did the only logical thing – they built a spa! Not to be confused with the modern spa (see below), this is the incredibly well-preserved historical site. It’s a huge complex that will take a couple of hours to fully explore, as you progress through the temple and various treatment rooms of ancient times. The audioguide is excellent, and offers different perspectives, including some commentary by one of the funniest authors I’ve ever read, Bill Bryson. Be sure to take a (small) taste of the thermal spring water at the end before you leave.

Thermae Bath Spa

With pools fed by the natural hot springs, this is a world-class spa to have a relaxing several hours during your stay in Bath. There are steam rooms with different calming aromas, pools of different temperatures and with jets to soothe sore muscles, and a hot pool on the roof with an expansive view of town. In addition to the several hours of lounging in the different pools that was included in my package, I also had an excellent massage here.

TIP! If you will be in Bath on a weekend or during school holidays, book ahead of time to ensure that you can get in to the spa.

TIP! As long as no masseuses call in sick, additional slots may open up in the morning for the same day. Call the reservation line first thing in the morning if you haven’t been able to reserve in advance.

TIP! There are a lot of good package deals including massages, especially mid-week. If you’re not sure which one to choose, I’d definitely recommend either talking through the options and their relative prices with someone over the phone or in person at the spa before you reserve.

Off the Beaten Path

The Holburne Museum

This is one of my favorite museums of all time! I’m not always a museum person, but I’m so glad I strolled a bit out of the center to arrive here. The main collection is free, and has so much character and a wealth of interesting items that Sir William Holburne collected during his lifetime. I didn’t have nearly enough time, so I’d recommend coming early enough in the day that you have the time to be leisurely.

TIP! Open all of the drawers in the main collection, as some of the most interesting tidbits and interactive displays were inside.

Prior Park Landscape Garden

I didn’t make it to this National Trust site as it’s a bit outside of the city and I ran out of time, but it looks absolutely beautiful from the pictures I’ve seen, especially of the Palladian Bridge located there. I’d say it’s worth the time going from town on public transit, which looks pretty straightforward, and certainly is a place to pop into if you have a car.

Royal Crescent

The Royal Crescent is a quite lengthy curved section of connected houses, which is distinctive-looking both for its curvature and sheer size. The math geek in me can’t help but point out that it is semi-elliptical, not semi-circular. The entire Royal Crescent was built in the late 1700s, and the house that stands at No. 1 Royal Crescent is actually a museum you can visit, with period furnishings.

Royal Victoria Park

If you’ve spent a bit of time exploring in town, this park that is a relatively easy walk from the center and is a great spot to get a dose of greenery and stroll in nature. I spent a bit of time wandering one of my mornings, and it was a great way to have a relaxing start to my day. It is also notable for being the first park named after the 11-year old (not-yet-Queen) Victoria.

Best Bites

Boston Tea Party

A cute, centrally-located cafe where I enjoyed breakfast one of my mornings, there is an array of coffee, tea, pastries, and breakfast dishes to choose from. I enjoyed their sweetcorn hash, with haloumi, poached eggs, and avocado. A great savory way to energize for a busy day of sightseeing.

The Bridge Coffee Shop

On the way from town to the Holburne Museum (see above), this coffee shop serves up great hot beverages, although the big draw is the lovely view of the river. Even if the tables on the river side of the shop are taken when you arrive, keep an eye out for departing guests so you can relocate to take in the scenery as you sip.

Chaiwalla Indian Street Food

Right in the heart of town, the vegetarian Indian food served here at super-reasonable prices will satisfy your hunger. The friendly owner/chef can help you decide between the excellent options, or just keep an eye on the dishes prepared to order ahead of you for a sense of which flavorful and delicious option you’d like to order. Conveniently, there are several benches across the street to enjoy your takeaway meal.

Olé Tapas

Oh my goodness, you must come here for dinner! Recommended to me by a friend who lives in London, it’s a really great Spanish tapas spot that was quite crowded when I went. Fortunately as a solo traveler I didn’t have to wait long before being able to snag a seat at the bar, but if you’re in a party larger than one, you probably want to reserve a table in advance as the space is small. The tapas are excellent, the staff is friendly, and anything you order off their special gin cocktail menu (ask for it if needed) will be crafted with incredible care and wow you with its unique flavor combinations.

Sally Lunn’s Historic Eating House & Museum

Located in one of the oldest houses in Bath, you’re likely to encounter a line out the door to dine in for one of Bath’s specialty buns. Fortunately, if you’re not interested in dining in, you can bypass the line to visit the display area downstairs with some history of the house and the bun, as well as purchase a freshly-baked Sally Lunn bun. The bun has a crust around the outside, is like an airy brioche inside, and comes in one size only that is as big as your head!

The Scallop Shell

Come here for the same reason as everybody else – their award-winning fish & chips. The fish is quite fresh, and unlike some other spots, you get a choice of the type of fish to be fried up with your chips. You can also get your dishes to take away, which can be an appealing option when the restaurant is busy and the line is long.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

Bath was a great place to spend a few days, and certainly one of the things that stands out for me was how easy transportation was both to get to Bath and once you arrived. And the town is definitely set up for visitors, with user-friendly pedestrian maps posted in several spots around town. There are plenty of coffee shops around as well, with proper espresso-based drinks as well as the tea options you’d expect in England.

TIP! The buses within Bath are cheap and easy to use, so if you’re traveling a long distance or are simply tired of walking, take advantage. My guesthouse was a bit far from the train station, so I also took a bus when I was arriving and departing with my luggage.

TIP! Bath is a popular family destination, so it will be significantly more crowded during school holidays. Check for the dates of local holidays so you can book accordingly.

TIP! Although the timing wasn’t right during my visit, there are quite a few live theatre performances that take place in Bath. You can peruse the options here. There are also lots of restaurants with pre-theatre meal specials.

Have you been to Bath? What were the highlights for you? Or do you have a different favorite trip for a few days outside of London? Share in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

March 21, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

A friend first sang Oman’s praises around two years ago, talking about this country as being unspoiled Middle East. Then last April my sister had a similarly wonderful experience. After my December road trip there with my other sister, I too came back raving about this lesser-visited corner of the Middle East. So much so that Oman made my list of Top 10 Destinations for 2017, and I keep recommending it when people ask for somewhere ‘off the beaten path’ to go. But just because you won’t find Oman inundated with tourists doesn’t mean that it’s any less stunning than other nearby destinations. It’s less commercialized than other countries in the region, making it a more authentic-feeling experience. And the Omani hospitality is incredible everywhere, so you can’t help but to feel welcome when you visit.

The highlights of my week-long visit vary from natural attractions to modern buildings to UNESCO World Heritage sites dating back millenia, and I don’t exaggerate when I say that each was a special experience during my time in Oman:

Sultan Qaboos Grand Mosque

This mosque in Oman’s capital city of Muscat is part of a huge and breathtakingly beautiful complex of prayer rooms, pathways, and gardens. The main prayer room is notable for having the second-largest chandelier and carpet in the world, and this is certainly where you’ll find the largest concentration of tourists. But the complex is vast enough that you can be alone for a lot of your wandering, just taking in the small details of every architectural feature and decorative element. And despite being only about 20 years old, the mosque transmits a strong sense of history as you explore. It’s also stunning when lit up at night.

Al Alam Royal Palace

I knew in advance that there would be no possibility of visiting the inside of the Sultan’s palace in Muscat, so I expected that it would be a quick stop to snap a few photos and then continue on. But like many things in Oman, there is more beauty to take in than you ever could have expected. You’ll know you’re looking at a picture of the Sultan’s Palace by its distinctive bright colors, but of course it is not just a single building but a huge area with many buildings and broad pedestrian walkways leading up to the palace. Close to the water, there are also several former Portuguese forts that are visible on the nearby hills.

Walk to Sawadi Island

Yes, you read that correctly, we walked to an island! About an hour’s drive north of Muscat along the Omani coast are a series of islands, and during low tide you can make your way across on foot from Al Sawadi beach. This was one of my Travel Superlatives for 2016, as one of the most adventurous things I did all year. My sister and I crossed about two hours before low-tide, and the water level reached just above the knees for both of us, and then returned on foot in shallower water close to low tide and sunset. Fortunately we both had our water-ready sport sandals on, and so when we arrived on the island, we were able to hike to the top of the island’s hill where there is a fort complex to explore. And the best part? It was a weekday and we had the island all to ourselves.

Forts and Castles

It’s sometimes hard to distinguish between the forts and castles (and some structures were used as both at different points in time), but there are hundreds across Oman and you’ll definitely see quite a few during your visit. I certainly didn’t know to expect one walking to Sawadi island, and they turned up unexpectedly many times during the trip. Although I did visit the Bahla Fort, one of the UNESCO-designated ones, there was poor signage in most places, which took away from the visit. The Nizwa Fort is also notable, with a distinctive cylindrical tower and close to a centrally located town where we spent a couple of nights. Certainly my favorite one to visit was the Jabreen (Jibreen) Castle, which has extensive signage and explanations of the different areas, and also has a lot of original decorative elements still visible.

Jabal Shams & the Grand Canyon of Oman

This mountainous area northwest of Nizwa known as the Jabal Shams contains many peaks as well as deep valleys and canyons, the area known as the Grand Canyon of Oman. Accessible only by a 4×4 vehicle, you’ll either need to have rented one or hire your own tour guide. There is some information you can get at your accommodations in terms of hiking routes, although if you are not especially comfortable on your own you’ll want to hire a guide. Definitely spend a day here, wandering the hiking trails, taking in the views, and seeing some of the water-blessed areas sprinkled throughout.

Aflaj, Oman’s Ancient Irrigation Channels

Aflaj is the plural of falaj, the local name for a single ancient irrigation channel. The aflaj system throughout Oman and dating back around 2,000 years is so remarkable that it has been recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and I too was wowed by its ingenuity. These clever channels are no longer used as a water source for drinking, but still to this day capture and funnel water for different farming purposes and even to fill pools for swimming. Typically there are stones that are fit to the gaps between different channels, allowing for control of the water flow depending on the needs of the moment. The simplicity and elegance of this ancient system for me rivaled the aqueducts of the Roman Empire, and I loved being able to see them in different parts of the country. The most intricate falaj I saw was at Misfat al Abriyyin, although they are also visible at Falaj Daris Park by Nizwa, and in several wadis, inlcuding Wadi Bani Khalid (see more below).

Stay Overnight in the Desert

Oman, like other countries in the Middle East, is comprised of quite a few desert areas that still have nomadic peoples wandering through. There are also a number of options for staying overnight in the desert, from desert camps where you’ll stay in a tent to regular hotel rooms that are simply far away from the rest of civilization. I love staying in tents whenever I can, for the peace of the desert at night and for visibility of the stars on a clear night.

Wadi Bani Khalid

This is the destination for a popular weekend trip, even for those who live several hundred kilometers away in Muscat. The waters in this desert oasis are ample year-round, and there are quite a lot of marked trails and a couple of restaurants on site to cater to all the visitors. This wadi is known for its caves, which remain difficult to access unless you find a hospitable Omani like we did, and for its connected pools where you can do a water hike between the different levels. As many locals come here – especially on the weekend of Friday and Saturday – be sure to dress modestly, even for the time you’ll spend in the water swimming. Like many wadis, the water here is filled with fish that will give you a natural pedicure by nibbling off the dead skin on your feet. I tried this, but decided that the sensation was just not for me, although most people seemed to enjoy (or at least tolerate) the nibbling for the smooth feet you’ll get if you’re patient.

Bimmah Sinkhole

Called the “world’s most stunning sinkhole” by the Daily Mail, this sinkhole about an hour’s drive south of Muscat along the coast is a burst of turquoise beauty in the middle of an otherwise arid region. Especially on the weekend, it’s a destination for locals, expats, and tourists alike, jumping off into the deep well that for me was reminiscent of a Mexican cenote. Like other nearby bodies of water, the fish that eat the dead skin off your feet are here as well, so you can treat yourself to a natural pedicure even if you don’t join in the swimming. It’s also a popular spot for a picnic and even has visitor facilities.

Eat Omani Food (this will not be easy!)

One of the more surprising things about visiting Oman was how challenging it was to find Omani food. Omanis typically eat at home, and like some of its Middle Eastern neighbors, Oman has a lot of workers from other countries that seek out their home cuisine. Which means that it is easier to find Indian or Lebanese dishes than ones native to the area. That said, Oman has been at the crossroads of trading routes for quite a long time, so the cuisine is comprised of a mix of influences, including some Omani versions of curry. One of the most typical Omani things I ate were halwa, a date-based sweet spread often flavored with rosewater. Also typical was shuwa, a dish made from meat that has been spiced, wrapped in banana leaves, and buried with hot ashes underground to cook for 24 hours.

Enjoy Omani Coffee and Dates (this will be a breeze)

A key component of Omani hospitality, coffee and dates are often the complimentary dessert served at the end of the meal, or the snack available at all hours at your accommodation. Omani coffee is a very aromatic, spiced concoction and will likely not taste anything like the coffee you typically consume, so approach it as an entirely new beverage. And the dates of Oman are incredible – I ate the best dates of my life on this trip.

Traditional Boat Tour in the Musandam Peninsula

The Musandam peninsula is by the Strait of Hormuz close to Iran, and while still part of Oman, it is geographically separate from the rest of the country, with the United Arab Emirates located in between. Musandam is accessible by flying or by car transfer from Dubai, with the town of Khasab as the traditional departure point for the boat tours. Musandam is comprised of stunning fjord-like inlets, and of course the traditional dhow boat tour is an excellent way to explore the beauty of this area. There are many tour providers, all of which will follow a similar itinerary, stopping at several points in the area, providing snorkel equipment to explore the crystal-clear water, and providing traditional Omani meals and refreshments on board. And in all likelihood the dolphins will come out to play at several points during the day, putting on quite the show.

Oman really was such an incredible vacation destination for a week, and one country I was so glad to visit with my sister. We did encounter some solo travelers, but I find that road trips are always more fun with a buddy, and in this case was strategic with the adventure of navigating. There were so many beautiful sights (and plenty of camels) that we saw along the way, this list just scratches the surface of what you’ll find in Oman.

Which attraction interests you the most? Anything you’d still want to read about Oman in a future post to help plan a visit? Or something you think should have been included on this list of top things to do? Let me know in the Comments!

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Visiting the Site of the Largest Unsolved Art Heist: Boston’s Gardner Museum

March 16, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

This Saturday marks the 27^th anniversary of the largest unsolved art heist, which took place on March 18, 1990 at the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum in Boston, Massachusetts. I can’t help but be swept up in a great story, and the details behind this art theft smack of any literary thriller that’s ever consumed you. That’s in fact how I first learned about it – from reading one of the many books that has been published in the nearly three decades since the theft.

The Heist

The art heist at the Gardner is unusual in several respects. Of the 13 works of art that were stolen, they were not all the most valuable pieces of art at the museum, although their cumulative value tops $500 million. It is even questionable what kind of art expertise the thieves possessed, as some of the paintings were carelessly slashed from their frames. The haul is also a mix – some famous paintings (including Rembrandt’s only seascape), sketches by Degas, and even the eagle from the top of a flagpole. The Gardner Museum has a page on its website with the details of the theft for the perennially curious, including a list of all of the missing artwork and even a virtual tour. And who to contact if you have any tips 😉

What made the heist so successful? For one, the thieves posed as police officers, under the guise of replying to a previous call at the museum, a clever way to establish authority. Is is that the security guards on duty did not follow protocol? The men posing as officers were allowed entry to the secure area, and then were able to lure both guards away from their post and the only alarm button. The guards were restrained, and the theft was only first discovered when the morning security guards arrived to start their shift, giving the thieves ample time to make their escape.

In the years since the theft, detectives believe they have come close to the artwork, with rumors leading them to many places from Philadelphia to Miami to Corsica, a French island in the Mediterranean. Not a single piece of art has been recovered yet, which is unusual for a heist of this size and also for the amount of time that has elapsed since the artwork went missing. The reward leading to the stolen works has been increased over time and now stands at $5 million, although it’s unclear whether investigators are actually any closer than before to solving this mystery as the next anniversary looms.

The Museum

Visiting the Gardner Museum was not my reason for visiting Boston, but was an outing I just could not resist. And while admittedly the art heist was the impetus for going to the museum, there was a world of wonder and whimsy I discovered there that make the museum worth a visit, regardless of whether the artwork is recovered someday.

Isabella Stewart Gardner was a bit of an eccentric heiress who founded the museum after her husband’s death in the late 1800s. One insight into her playful personality is the structure for discounted or free admission to the museum that persists to this day. There are of course some of the typical discounts, for students and teachers and museum pass holders.

So what are some of the less typical ways to get discounted or free admission?

If you’re named Isabella, there is lifetime free admission (once you register on their site here).
Admission is free on your birthday.
There is a discount for wearing paraphernalia of the local baseball team, the Boston Red Sox.

Unfortunately I didn’t qualify for any of these (and I’m a lifelong New York Yankees fan, division rivals of the Red Sox), but if you’re named Isabella or it happens to be your birthday, you’re in luck!

In any case, once you have a ticket in hand you proceed to the courtyard, an incredible space that really sets the tone for the rest of the museum. It feels like you’ve stepped into the interior of a European villa, with the columns, greenery, and large central mosaic. Almost everyone, including me, stopped in their tracks to take in this peaceful space. Some stayed and lingered on the bench surrounding the garden space, while others popped in and out of the surrounding rooms, returning for a few moments to appreciate the garden in between. As you enter the museum rooms, all of which are clustered around the central courtyard, the view outside morphs ever so slightly, especially on the higher floors. And for me, as I entered each new space, my eye was initially drawn in the direction of the courtyard, observing the new perspective and angle of the sunlight. This experience was certainly part of the museum’s design, and provides continuity and a sense of space throughout.

Isabella also had a clear vision for how she wanted the art to be displayed for the public inside the rooms, from the floor coverings to the ceiling to the furniture to the artwork. She took a holistic view on the curation of the pieces and how they were displayed in the various rooms and levels of the museum. When you enter each space, it has a distinct feel. Some are crowded, while others are sparse. Some are dark-paneled and regal, while others have sunlight streaming in and have a light, airy, open feel about them.

Isabella Stewart Gardner collected much of the art during her international travels, hence the European feel of many of the spaces. The building housing the museum was commissioned to be in the style of a famous Venetian palazzo – the style of buildings typical along the Grand Canal of Venice, Italy. Isabella even hand-arranged the Spanish tiles in one of the open-air spaces off the courtyard, and her direct hand in the museum is apparent throughout. She saved her correspondence with famous artists and composers of the day, and there’s even a case featuring letters from some of the first American presidents that she acquired over the years. In fact, Gardner was so particular that the permanent exhibition cannot be significantly altered, a provision that has made the aftermath of the heist particularly visible because no other artwork can be put in place of the pieces that were stolen.

Another highlight of the museum for me was the temporary exhibit currently on display until September called Listen Hear: The Art of Sound. Since the permanent exhibit can’t really be changed per Isabella Stewart Gardner’s explicit wishes, including special exhibits is a wonderful way to enhance the art already on display and be able to interact with it in new ways. Some of the sound exhibits are meant to align with the artwork in certain rooms, or to represent specific pieces that were stolen, like Vermeer’s The Concert. In the courtyard, one of the exhibits emits sounds meant to imitate the insects that are absent from the garden, providing the background noise that is normally missing. In another ground floor space is an intricate series of small sculpted glass orbs, some of which have been filled with different colored liquids, from tea to olive oil. Embedded in the sculpture are sensors, and as you walk underneath the sculpture or wave your hand nearby, cascading sounds are emitted. I was a bit mesmerized by this one, and spent quite a bit of time staring and playing.

You can’t help but have fun visiting the Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, and from everything I’ve learned about the woman, that is exactly what Isabella always hoped for.

Have you visited the Gardner Museum? What part of the experience stands out for you?

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Travel Savvy Gal

Making the Most of Your Time Away

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Author: Lana @TravelSavvyGal

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Visiting the Site of the Largest Unsolved Art Heist: Boston’s Gardner Museum

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