Why The Best Packing Strategy is to Pack As Poorly As Possible

May 23, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 8 comments

There are a lot of competing ideas about which packing strategy is best, but this is all about a very different, but highly-effective piece of advice.

Most define packing success as sitting on top of an overstuffed bag and just getting it to zip closed. Possibly by sitting and jumping on top! The packing ritual been hilariously portrayed in many films, and you’ve probably lived it yourself getting ready for a vacation.

But here’s the thing.

One of the eternal truths of this world is that items always seem to multiply when you’re on a trip. You get a brochure from a tourist attraction you want to save for your scrapbook, you accumulate receipts and invoices from hotels and restaurants, you purchase a knick-knack here or there.

I’m not huge into buying souvenirs, and even I used to have trouble squeezing everything back into my bag. Re-packing into the same luggage you came with shouldn’t be this hard, right? It all fit inside the first time.

This is why I say that my best packing strategy is to pack as poorly as possible. Then you’ll have plenty of extra packing space when it’s time to come home and you go about packing efficiently for your trip back.

How to Pack On the Way There

Basically, my packing strategy when I first leave on a trip is to do the opposite of all of the tips out there for how to pack efficiently. I aim to pack as inefficiently as possible. And then I take out 3 more items of clothing, to clear up even more space.

What does this look like?

No socks (or anything) stuffed inside shoes
Pack hiking boots or bulkiest shoes, and then wear flip flops or sleek sandals
Pack disposable items in small containers that you can finish and throw away during your trip, like:
- travel size toiletries, including shampoo, conditioner, facewash, and lotionTIP! It’s better to pack 2 small shampoo containers than 1 large one, because then you can throw away the small one when it’s done instead of having to transport the large one in both directions
- tampons and pads, for the ladies
- mints or snacks in small sizes
Fold, don’t roll your clothes
Pack small gifts for hosts and/or to pass out to people you meet in your travels
Include physical books that you’ll give away when you finish reading
Close your luggage with its smallest possible dimensions – so don’t open the expanding zipper or loosen the closure on a backpack when you first pack

It may not be the prettiest packing job (although you should still pack carefully to keep your clothes from getting wrinkled in transit) but this is the best way I’ve found to preserve extra space in my luggage for later. Whether it’s to bring something back from my travels or simply to have the flexibility to pack poorly when I might be exhausted at the end of my trip.

“Pack efficiently, but just fewer items!” you shout. “That’ll solve the packing dilemma.”

Although that is certainly possible in theory, practically that would never work for me at least. But you also don’t want a lot of empty space at the top of your bag where things might get jostled in transit.

Packing poorly ensures that the space is taken up to keep items secure, but there is plenty of wiggle room if you pack efficiently later to include more things.

How to Pack On the Way Back

Well, how efficiently you need to pack for your journey home depends on how many things you’ve managed to finish and dispose of along the way, and how many things you’ve purchased to bring back with you.

Or if you’ve purchased heavy items in a duty-free shop and would prefer to have the extra space to insert them into your rolling carry-on luggage to be able to drag along through the airport and avoid carrying them by hand.

Let’s assume for a second that you loaded up on souvenirs and want to be able to have them fit neatly inside the bags you came with.

Here’s what you do:

Wear largest/bulkiest pair of shoes home
Stuff socks or other small items inside other shoes packed in the luggage
Throw away or consolidate any toiletries you’ve used up
Roll all clothing, or use packing cubes if you’re into that

Ta-da, space for everything you purchase along the way!

Do you usually find yourself struggling to close your luggage for the return trip? What packing strategy do you use to have enough space?

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What’s the Big Deal with ‘Country Counting’ Anyway?

May 18, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 14 comments

I don’t always come into contact with other frequent travelers on the road, and when I do, the topic of ‘country counting’ doesn’t come up. Until last week when I was in Belize and happened to take a day trip to Guatemala with a bunch of frequent travelers, including a pair who worked at a ski resort 6 to 8 months a year and traveled the rest of the time.

Travel blogging doesn’t always lend itself to interviewing or conducting field research, but on the two hour or so drive, I felt like I had an opportunity.

“So, do you know how many countries you’ve been to?”

I tried to pose the question as innocently as possible to the ski resort pair. They didn’t know I was a travel blogger, and I didn’t offer up the information because we were at the beginning of the tour and I didn’t want special treatment from the guide. Although I had already planned to write about ‘country counting’ for the blog.

After a brief moment of thought, one of them suggested, “Maybe somewhere in the 30s?”

I would venture to say that visiting 30+ countries is something not attained by most people. As we passed our passports to the front of the van for processing at the Guatemalan border, theirs bulged with the extra pages displaying all of the places they’ve transited.

But here is the other key piece of information. They didn’t talk about all the countries they’d visited or how many new ones they would see this year, but instead waxed philosophical about how they loved southeast Asia and it was a destination they’d returned to again and again.

This is in stark contrast to the travel blogging world, when someone’s number of countries visited serves as some sort of “street cred” (aka credentials) of how experienced they might be, or perhaps how trustworthy with advice.

When I started out blogging, I noticed it in people’s Twitter or Instagram profile. I followed suit and added it to my Pinterest page description. As you can imagine, there are also travel bloggers that are vehemently opposed to country counting because of what it represents. To each his or her own.

Country goals

There are plenty of people though, from infrequent tourists to backpackers to business travelers, who engage in ‘country counting.’ For some, it’s not a constant tally, but an occasional check-in, depending on the goal.

I’ve heard it all in terms of goals: visiting 30 countries by the age of 30, making it to 2 new countries each year, or just using the number as a motivator to travel more. Apparently there’s even an app for that. Or rather several apps, that typically use a map feature to shade in and track where you’ve visited.

And for the really ambitious, there’s the Travelers’ Century Club (TCC). The TCC was founded in Los Angeles, California in the 1950s and – you guessed it – membership is open to those who have visited 100 or more countries.

Why ‘country counting’ is so complicated

Of course, “been to” or “visiting” can mean many things.
Does transferring at an airport count?
What if you go through customs and leave the airport?
Do you have to spend the night?
Stay for 24 hours?
Have a meal?

By the way, those aren’t random questions. All of them are criteria I’ve heard floated by friends and other bloggers as to what you might have to do for a country to “count.” Or for those counting US states or Canadian provinces or Italian regions as they try to visit each one.

As for me, I only know the number of countries I’ve been to because I sat down and made a list last year, thinking that it would help to mention it to be considered a travel blogging authority. At the time I started the blog, I had been to 45 countries, which I mentioned in my very first welcome post on the blog.

Although interestingly I don’t know – off the top of my head, anyway – how many of the 50 US states I’ve visited, although it’s quite a few. (Maybe I’m somewhere in the 30s?)

Hidden in my number of 54 are a few quick passes through places, like…

brief jaunts into Montenegro and Bosnia on day trips during my 2007 road trip
the overnight I spent sleeping at the Kuala Lumpur low-cost airport terminal in 2012, although I did have to get my passport stamped and I exited the terminal once for a brief stroll
my day trip to visit the ruins at Tikal in Guatemala last week, starting and ending in Belize

Also hidden in my number, which seems to be toward the high side for bloggers, is the fact that I’ve never been to South America! Although I’ve traveled a bunch in the Caribbean and Central America. And racked up quite a few extra countries while living in Europe and visiting micro-nations like Andorra and Liechtenstein, Luxembourg and San Marino, Monaco and Vatican City.

It sure sounds impressive to say that I’ve lived in 4 countries on 4 continents (which is true!) but really I just keep going back to those same continents for travel as well! And no, I don’t count my few days into the Sinai Peninsula of Egypt as visiting Africa, although you might consider that to technically be the case.

See how complicated this all is?

But wait, here’s the other kicker of a question. How many countries are there in the world?

There are some people who aim to visit every country in the world. Although I’m not one of them, the question of how to know when you’ve visited them all is not so straightforward.

How many “countries” are there?

You would think that knowing how many countries there are would be a simple question, but it is anything but. How to decide?

Probably the first thing most people think of is to consult the United Nations (UN) membership as a guide. There are 193 UN member states. OK, so there is our number: 193.

But wait, what about the Holy See (Vatican City, pictured above) and Palestine, both of which have official UN observer status. So, there are 195 countries in the world?

Well, not so fast. Taiwan is not a member of the UN at all, due to ongoing disagreements with mainland China. And certainly most people would consider it a country. New tally: 196.

Or how about Kosovo? Following conflict over its status after the breakup of Yugoslavia, Kosovo declared its independence in 2008, which over 100 countries have recognized. But it is still not part of the UN. And we’re at 197.

There is still Antarctica, which is a continent, but has no country based there. Can you visit a continent without adding to your ‘country count’? Or what about Hong Kong & Macau, which are Special Administrative Regions of China?

Interestingly, the Guinness Book of World Records put the number of “sovereign nations” at 196. The most recent (and fastest) person to achieve the feat of visiting them all, American Cassie De Pecol, brought recent attention to ‘country counting’ with the goal of visiting every country. It took her just over a year and a half.

The TCC country and territory list takes things to a whole new level and lists 325 places! Based on their own definition, of course.

What about me?

Personally, I think you need to clear immigration and step foot in a country for it to count, so by that measure I am technically at 54 countries, although it really feels like 53 since I left the Kuala Lumpur airport oh-so-briefly during my overnight layover. I didn’t actually see or do anything there. Except take this picture:

How did my count get so high?

A few factors, really. It was Caribbean vacations with my family & a few well-planned trips over the years that included several countries each & living in Europe for 3 years where things are so darn close together.

“Oh, you lived in Europe for 3 years, you must have been everywhere!”

That’s something I hear a lot, but I didn’t even come close, despite my many trips to micro-nations. I only made one foray during that time into Scandinava (Stockholm for TBEX, a travel blogging conference), and there are other places that lots of people have visited that just haven’t happened for me. At least not yet.

Like Portugal. Or Ireland. Or places I would love to get to this year like Malta & Georgia.

Some would call me well-traveled (and I think I am), but not because of my country count!

Some parting thoughts

What I can say? Yes, I’ve been to a lot of countries. I’m not an expert on everywhere, but I have done enough travel to offer advice and tips on mistakes to avoid and how to do it well. Which is why I started a blog =)

For the places I have been, I typically do a fair bit of research before going. Then I take good notes on what I’ve seen, done & enjoyed, and can share my best tips for those destinations with you!

And this whole ‘country counting’ business? I like numbers, and it’s certainly something interesting to think about for your own travels. But at the end of the day I’m much more concerned with what type of travel someone has done than how many places they’ve visited necessarily.

Did you savor great street food, seek out haute cuisine, or eat what’s most convenient at the moment?
Did you plan ahead of time or travel spontaneously?
Did you join organized tours or do your own thing?
Did you visit places where you know locals or went somewhere you have no connection?

These are some of the many ways to frame travel, and they’re certainly not mutually exclusive. I travel in lots of varied ways depending on the destination, budget, and my traveling companions. There is no one right method, although in its own way my number does tell a story – of the clustered travel I’ve done around countries where I’ve lived, and how much of the world is still left for me to explore.

A particular travel count is not a goal of mine. (It never even occurred to me to try to visit 30 countries by the time I turned 30!)

And I don’t know that I’ll want to go to every country someday like some of those world record holders.

But I do want to explore new places, re-visit places I’ve been and loved, and take some travel savvy with me when I go.

Happy travels!

Lana

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Do you know your country count? Or your count of provinces or states where you live? What does it mean for you and your travel? What do you need to do in a place for it to make it onto your list?

And do you have any goals around your country count? Like visiting 40 countries by the time you’re 40…or 100 countries in your lifetime? I want to hear all about it!

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Photo Journey through Berlin’s East Side Gallery

May 16, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Berlin’s East Side Gallery is the longest open-air art gallery in the world, where artists have left their mark on an extended section of the original Berlin Wall. Artist got a wide rectangular section of wall as their canvas, and the resulting art is a combination of humor, political satire, and hope. A fitting mix of emotions given the symbolic nature of the wall during the Cold War, and the harsh reality it represented for Berlin’s inhabitants.

I’ve already posted a quite thorough Berlin Cheat Sheet on the blog with my impressions of the city, all the best things to do, restaurants and food to seek out, and thorough tips to make the most of your visit. These images will give you a closer look as to why the city made such an impression on me, and why I left thinking of it as a ‘City of Contradictions.’

The Berlin Wall has been on my mind again lately, as I recently visited a section of the original wall, also adorned with art, in the lobby of a random New York City office building:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BS4kdtIg2G1/?taken-by=travelsavvygal&hl=en

The East Side Gallery of course is the longest remaining section of the Berlin Wall. You can get a sense of the length of the East Side Gallery in this shot, although you may have to get pretty close to your screen to see just how far it continues to wrap around alongside the road:

In this photo journey through my visit, I’m including the panels that I found most interesting, many of which have incredible detail. I spent around two hours strolling up and down the panels – you could spend more or less depending on how much time you’re interested in spending with each mural.

And you’ll notice that some of my shots include fencing. Over the years since 1990 when the East Side Gallery first opened, there have been some sections obscured by graffiti, and so after a restoration effort, fences have been put up to protect the art.

Here’s what I saw…

German flag with overlay from the Israeli flag:

Portrayal of the Allied Checkpoint Charlie, which connected the two sides of Berlin for those authorized to cross:

Interesting panel, since there is a three-dimensional component with the plant box. Reminiscent of a church for me:

“Save Our Earth” and the incredibly detailed, colorful panel on the left:

Amnesty International dove of peace and chain of captivity:

I’ll let the bold yellow and red here speak for itself:

The panel that was most impactful for me, so I’m including 2 different perspectives. It portrays a “Curriculum Vitae” of the people killed while trying to escape, during each of the years the wall stood from 1961-1989:

Each rose represents one person:

I spent quite a bit of time in front of this final panel, what do you make of it?

Which panel made the biggest impression on you? Have you been to the East Side Gallery? Any memorable panels I missed?

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Foodie Scoop – The Table in Boston

May 11, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

On a recent weekend trip to Boston designed for catching up with friends and loved ones, I wasn’t expecting to have any notable experiences to share on the blog. Until I went to the Gardner Museum, site of the largest unsolved art heist, and loved the vibe of the museum even beyond the noticeably empty picture frames on the wall. And then that night, my foodie revelation – enjoying my best dining experience of the year so far.

In between a night cooking at home with friends and another getting some traditional Boston clam chowder out, I had a night to fill on my recent weekend trip to Boston. I cooked have cooked at my friends’ place where I was staying, even though they were out that night. It would have been quite cozy, and I do love to cook.

But when I’m somewhere other than home, you know me – I like to get out and explore! So despite the freezing temperatures and chilling wind, I ventured outside in search of a meal out. It was a decent stroll, actually, to another corner of Cambridge, to see if I could get in to The Table at Season to Taste.

I had seen The Table on a list of best Boston restaurants for foodies, and was intrigued by it offering a tasting menu, but choices within each course, all of which sounded delicious. And I sure worked up an appetite by the time I arrived.

Of course, I came prepared with a backup plan of several other nearby restaurants in case I couldn’t get in at The Table. But fortunately that was not needed and I had a really stellar dining experience that I’m compelled to share:

How ‘The Table’ Works (& What You Should Do Instead)

The Table is a quite small Cambridge dining establishment, with only twenty seats inside. The main seating is a combination of 16 spots at regular tables and 4 stools at the bar facing the open kitchen.

All of these seats, including the bar stools, are available to reserve and when you do you’ll be asked for your seating preference – Standard or Counter. You’re also required to provide a credit card, and you can only cancel the reservation until 48 hours in advance. By reserving, you’re committing to a 4-course tasting menu (there are 2 options within each course) at a cost of $69 per person.

But who needs commitment like that when you can instead play it by ear?

The website for The Table describes that “there is a menu of light snacks paired with choice wines and craft beers at the standing wine bar.” This is accurate, and you can find both a ‘Drink’ and a ‘Snack’ menu on the site to check out in advance.

TOP TIP! What they don’t tell you is that the ‘standing wine bar’ – really like a waiting nook to the right of the entrance – is far more flexible than they make it sound. You can actually order from the several choices on the ‘Snack Menu’ or order any of the 8 possible courses a la carte from the tasting menu (4 courses x 2 options in each). You can mix and match. And it is glorious.

In foodie heaven, I ended up getting 3 courses in total, one of the “first courses” and both of the “second courses” from the tasting menu the night I was there. And none of the “snacks.” My choices were partially based on my mood and partially based on the one course my server recommended when I asked for guidance – the crab stew (which you’ll read all about below).

The best deal by far is to dine in the waiting nook. Both in terms of choice and price.

I’m not the only foodie who’s figured this out as there was a neighborhood couple who dined there the same night as me, but otherwise the other people who entered had reserved in advance at the tables or at the counter.

The ‘standing wine bar’ only has 2 stools (I managed to snag one), but you can also stand, if you don’t mind. The one couple who came after me opted to stand. FYI, I arrived around 7:30pm on a Saturday night, and was the first person to arrive without a reservation.

And in the end, it was incredibly affordable for the size and quality of the dishes that came out. Each of my First/Second course choices were only $14 each! And you could be happily full on just two, trust me.

I honestly didn’t ask for the a la carte price before ordering, but the meal cost less than I expected it to be, which was a pleasant surprise when I received the bill at the end. Basically, my food and wine came to the total I was expecting just for the food. Amazing.

Now that I’ve talked about the pesky money business, it’s time to focus on the exceptional meal and service I enjoyed. Which, price aside, is what really made this a stand-out restaurant experience for me.

The Staff and Chefs

Despite the main restaurant menu consisting of just a tasting menu, the service is effusive and not stuffy or pretentious at all. I’d characterize it as quite laid back, which seems to be my preferred style of dining these days. From welcoming me as soon as I came in the door to explaining my ordering options in the ‘standing wine bar,’ everything throughout the meal was very comfortable and relaxed.

And while I didn’t try any of the craft beer that was available, I did enjoy a couple of wines by the glass – one white, one red – and had some great sommelier advice along the way. The menu options by the glass were interesting, and the knowledgeable staff gave some spot-on recommendations for pairings with the dishes I ordered.

Although the chefs are focused as they expertly assemble dishes in the open kitchen, they are also aware of the diners and happily chatting away with us, even with me over in the nook! Being close to a kitchen with chefs that were so friendly and interacting with guests definitely enhanced the dining experience for me.

Another thing I noticed when I got settled on my stool in the waiting nook was that the head chef in the kitchen sure looked familiar. A quick search on my phone revealed that yes, it was Carl Dooley from Top Chef, which (I swear!) I didn’t know before going. Like many foodies I know, I’ve been a loyal watcher of this American cooking reality show for years, but I don’t think I’ve ever gone to a restaurant of a Top Chef contestant outside of Washington, DC before. Fortunately, his time on TV didn’t go to his head and he was super friendly, just like the other chefs in the kitchen.

Another nice touch is that different chefs hand deliver each course, and you get to chat with them as they come to where you’re seated with your dish. They never seemed too rushed to get back into the kitchen, helping the meal feel relaxed.

The staff is so, so friendly and both welcoming and accommodating that they made an already great experience especially memorable.

Breaking it Down Course by Course

Since I had ordered a random mix of three courses and was not doing the full tasting menu, I was expecting dining in The Table’s waiting nook to be like any other a la carte meal. Instead, I was pleasantly surprised at the very hospitable and foodie-worthy dining experience.

Soon after ordering, heated triangles of house-made sourdough bread appeared, served with some cultured butter. I had no clue what cultured butter was, so asked and found out that it was butter that had been churned with live bacteria to culture it. It was a flavor I didn’t love on its own but really enjoyed with my different food courses.

Another surprise then headed my way, an amuse bouche. This is a small dish made at the daily whim of the chef to start my meal, and something I wasn’t expecting since I had not committed to the tasting menu like the diners at the tables and formal counter spots. I enjoyed the apple, turnip, and jalapeño soup, although it was not nearly as incredible as the more polished courses that followed.

I had ordered the 1^st course of grilled squid with winter citrus just because I was in the mood for squid. The dish looked different than I had pictured it in my head, but it was incredibly delicious. The thin rings of squid were cooked perfectly, and not in the least bit rubbery or chewy. It was boldly seasoned to the point that I found a bite of the squid on its own to be a bit too salty, but with the other flavors of the citrus, mint, olives, and pistachio, it made for a perfect bite.

When I ordered my two 2^nd courses, I had just assumed from my perspective after living in Italy that the pasta would arrive first, followed by the crab stew. But I didn’t specify anything when I ordered and the kitchen had its own ideas about the proper order. Which meant that the server-recommended crab stew came next.

I’m glad that it did, because I wasn’t approaching being full yet, and was able to appreciate it completely. I don’t say this lightly: this crab dish is one of the best bites I’ve ever had.

This 2^nd course was the crab stew, with peanuts, scallions, house-made kimchi, & a sunny side up egg. Sounds simple enough, and it actually didn’t appeal to me much from reading the menu description.

But when I had asked my server about what dishes from the menu stand out (and I honestly expecting waffling, saying that “everything is good” as many servers do), she hands-down said the crab dish was unlike anything she had ever tasted. So I took her advice to heart and ordered the dish, which was oh-so-good, far beyond any description I could possibly offer. Although I’ll try.

Like my first course, the crab stew was boldly flavored. The house-made kimchi packed a spicy punch, and its sour flavor and texture from the cabbage with the smooth, buttery crab made it very pleasant to eat. Each spoonful was an unapologetic, perfectly balanced umami bite of addictive, comforting flavors. The runny yolk from the sunny side up egg put the richness of the dish way over the top (in a good way!) and the crunch of the scallions and peanuts kept each bite interesting. I would travel back to Boston just to eat this dish again.

Of course, I wasn’t even done with the meal yet. My final course had yet to arrive!

I was starting to get a bit full at this point, and had I not already ordered a third dish, I probably wouldn’t have. And you could definitely be satisfied with just two courses, as I mentioned before. While I was waiting in between courses, I mentally told myself that it would be okay to not finish my last course. And then it was presented.

This other 2^nd course was a house-made garganelli pasta with duck confit, toasted hazelnuts, mushrooms, and spigarello, a leafy green. There was great winter flavor to this dish, between the pasta, the spigarello, the hazelnuts, and the fresh parmesan cheese grated over top.

The duck confit itself was very good, although possibly superfluous – while I enjoyed it, I’m not sure that the dish needed the meat at all. And like all my other dishes that night, there was incredible flavor and textural balance, making every bite supremely enjoyable.

My only critique the whole night – and an incredibly minor one – is that some of the pieces (in all of the dishes) were left quite large, so it was hard to maneuver and balance all of the components of the dish onto my fork at the same time to enjoy them as a single bite. The larger pieces were certainly a plus in some cases, like the lovely chunks of lump crab in the stew, but overall I would have liked to have more mixed bites since the dishes were so good when you got to eat everything together.

A Sweet Ending

The regular 4-course tasting menu includes a dessert course as the final two options, however I had consciously chosen three savory dishes with the idea of forgoing dessert entirely. And honestly, I was pretty full after the first two of my three courses, although you probably couldn’t tell, given how I devoured them all!

Suffice it to say that even two courses would be plenty of food for a lot of people, and dessert for me was definitely not necessary. Of course, while I politely declined dessert when asked, the meal still wasn’t quite over yet.

To my surprise, despite being in the ‘standing wine bar’ nook perched on a stool and an itty bitty ledge to eat off of, I got all of the benefits that typically happen at a restaurant when you order a tasting menu.

Not only did I have an amuse bouche and the bread with house spreads to start my meal, but the meal also ended on an equally generous note.

First (after refusing dessert) I was served a perfectly tart and bitter sorbet of grapefruit and Campari liqueur. Even though I don’t usually love either of those flavors on their own, I couldn’t resist a taste. And let’s be real, by this point I certainly had full trust in anything this restaurant served. The sorbet was a very nice palate cleanser/digestif to end a very rich and luscious meal.

Then another complimentary dessert plate arrived (no, I’m not kidding!) with a small square of brownie and a slice of homemade granola. I probably shouldn’t have, but I ate the entire brownie immediately and then really was at my absolute limit.

In the end, it was quite a lot of dessert for a person who had declined, but I of course enjoyed the sorbet and brownie bite, and filled to the brim, put the granola in my purse for later. Conveniently it was already wrapped in brown paper for exactly this purpose =)

And after all that delicious food, I knew I would need to take a nice long walk, so pushed the idea of a taxi out of my head and had a very blissful walk home, with a smile plastered on my face, and the flavors and memories of this incredible meal still bouncing around.

Final Thoughts

My foodie tastebuds are happy all over again as I relive this meal by writing about it. Certainly, if you’ll be in the Boston area, this would be top of my list to seek out while you’re there. And if you’re not going anytime soon, plan a trip!

And forget reserving seats for the typical tasting menu – you’re likely to pay less than a typical night out if you’re willing to enjoy your meal in the waiting nook that is the ‘standing wine bar.’ Plus, you’ll have complete control over which combination of courses to enjoy if you dine there.

What makes a meal outstanding for you? What’s *your* best dining experience of the year so far? (‘Cause let’s be real, wherever it is, I want to go.) Share away in the ‘Comments’!

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Top 9 Things to do in the Le Marche region of Italy

May 9, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 15 comments

East of Tuscany on the Adriatic coast is one of Italy’s lesser-known regions, Le Marche, where you can avoid the tourist hordes and enjoy some pretty incredible Italian experiences and cuisine.

I’ve visited many times, for relaxing long weekends and outdoor adventure, for wine tasting and relaxing on the beach, for hiking and exploring walled cities. The region of Le Marche is probably a destination where you’ll want to rent a car (and you can check out my Best Tips for European Road Trips), but you’ll be so glad to have the flexibility to explore off the main train line along the coast.

You may never have heard of Le Marche before – and travel guidebooks don’t help much – so I’ve compiled a list of the top things to do while you’re there. And once you’ve mapped out the attractions you’ll want to visit, I recommend finding a nearby guesthouse to stay, where you can chat with the owner for some insider information on the area and have an even better experience.

Top Things to Do

Relax on the Beach

Le Marche is a coastal region, with its eastern border along the Adriatic Sea, so there is no shortage of beaches for swimming, suntanning, and relaxing.

If you’ve been to Croatia you know that Adriatic beaches tend to have pebbles instead of sand, and Le Marche is the same for the most part. Which is why Senigallia is a popular beach destination, as one of the only sandy beaches in the region.

The other main attraction in terms of Le Marche beaches is the Conero Riviera, south of the regional capital of Ancona, with some absolutely stunning coastline.

Several of the beaches can be accessed on foot or at least closely approached in a car. One exception is the lovely Due Sorelle (two sisters) beach, only accessible by boat from Numara, and usually a less crowded spot to enjoy the sea.

Eat: Savor Local Specialties.

I’m no expert on Marchegiana cuisine, and like all over Italy it varies from town to town, but Marche like other parts of Italy is known for its regional food specialties.

Probably the most well-known across Italy are the beloved olive ascolane, which are olives stuffed with a ground pork mixture, then breaded and fried.

Less likely to find in other parts of Italy are some of the primi, or first courses. Vincisgrassi is a local variation on lasagna, usually baked with chicken livers, and you’ll often seen passatelli pasta featured on menus, made by passing a breadcrumb dough through a shaper until it emerges in the shape of spaghetti.

Various sausages and game dishes are also common, as is brodetto, a fish stew made traditionally with 13 types of fish and seafood, to represent the number of people at the Last Supper. Whatever corner of Le Marche you find yourself in, one thing is guaranteed – you’ll eat well!

Caves & Undergrounds

Basically, there are lots of caves and undergrounds all over Le Marche. As long as you’re not scared of enclosed spaces, there are some great spots to check out:

Frasassi Caves. The largest cave system in Europe, these are a must-visit spot if you’re in Le Marche! The claim to fame here is that the initial chamber of the Frasassi Caves is so large that the Duomo di Milano, Milan’s Cathedral, could fit completely inside. There is a long, meandering path you’ll follow if you take basic tour (guides are mandatory for a visit) or if like me, you’re a bit more adventurous, there are 2 spelunking tours through these natural caverns filled with stalactites and stalagmites. Although no pictures allowed =(I love going behind the scenes, so signed up for one of the “Speleo-Adventure” tours, and had a blast. You’ll change into coveralls and tall rubber boots, because you’ll get quite muddy along the way. And do ask ahead of time about language. My tour was in Italian (and fortunately my Italian is quite good), but if you don’t speak the language, be sure there’s someone who can relay safety instructions to you in English before you book.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! While you’re there, it’s a short car ride or a reasonable stroll from the entrance to the Frassasi caves to the parking lot where a leisurely path starts up the mountain and brings you to the Temple of Valadier, a church inside of a cave!

Camerano. Not nearly to the scale of Frasassi, and a bit different since this cave system is man-made, there is an excellent tour available in English that will take you through the passageways. At different points in time there were spaces used for religious worship, wine-making, and as a shelter during wartime. An incredibly interesting spot to check out if you’re nearby.

Wine Tasting

This is Italy, so of course there are incredible wines to sample. They are made from grapes local to the region, and meant to pair well with the local cuisine. This is just how Italy rolls.

The wines you’re most likely to encounter on a Le Marche menu are the Rosso Conero and Rosso Piceno – two basic, local reds – and the Verdicchio dei Castelli di Jesi, a mineral-rich white wine meant to pair well with local fish and seafood dishes.

Antica Cantina Sant'Amico in Morra d'Alba — Antica Cantina Sant’Amico in Morra d’Alba

An absolute favorite though is the relatively unknown appellation of Lacrima di Morro d’Alba, A red wine made from lacrima grapes in (yep, you guessed it) the town of Morro d’Alba, this usually young red is very particular in taste, so you’ll probably love it or hate it. It is fruity and aromatic, while fairly dry.

The wine can vary greatly from year to year, so enjoy a tasting and then decide what to buy if you visit a winery. Otherwise, you’ll definitely see it on restaurant wine lists around the region.

Explore Walled Cities

A function of the rolling hills of Le Marche, the region is dotted with walled cities who built the structures as a means of defense. Today they are picturesque spots to visit, usually with an Old Town of centuries-old buildings and cobblestone streets inside.

My favorites:

Urbino. Urbino is definitely the largest walled city on this list, with the most to see inside. It is the birthplace of renowned artist (and Ninja Turtle) Raphael, and has quite a few museums and a Cathedral inside. It is well-lit in the evening, and has many winding cobblestone streets and various lookout points to see the surrounding countryside.
Gradara. Much smaller than Urbino, Gradadara is known for its castle, which you can explore along with strolling on the city walls. Supposedly packed in summer, my friend and I had a pretty solitary visit in September, enjoying the beautiful views of the countryside and the views inside this hilly town.
Corinaldo. Very teeny, Corinaldo packs in all you need from one of Le Marche’s walled cities. It has cobblestone streets, great views of the surrounding area, and delicious food. It also has 2 quirky claims to fame – a polenta well that according to legend fed the city during a siege & also a house with just a facade, built by a heavy-drinking father to send pictures to his son overseas that the money being sent home was being put to good use. Now there’s a plaque to mark the spot.
The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

The street to the right of the well is named Polenta since the well was filled with polenta and kept the villagers from starvation in hard times

Take a Hike

There are a number of hikes throughout the region, but the main hiking destination in Le Marche is Monti Sibillini National Park. There are several biking and hiking itineraries available, including a vast loop that will take multiple days to complete. If you’re interested in a multi-day trip, there are accommodations available along the way.

Visit the Acqualagna Truffle Festival

The Alba Truffle Festival in Piedmont in northern Italy may be more famous, but Le Marche’s own fall Truffle Festival in Acqualagna has the same renowned white truffles and is definitely less crowded and easier to explore.

There are outdoor stands with various vendors of truffle products and whole white truffles for sale. There is also a large indoor area, selling nearly everything under the sun.

And since it’s the season of truffle, whatever restaurants you visit in the area in the October/November timeframe will have plenty of dishes with white truffle shaved over top.

No Italian event centered around food would be complete without wine as an accompaniment, so the festival also has wineries represented in various booths, and a whole stand just for wine tasting, with bottles from around the region.

Even if you’re not there in fall, there are two Acqualagna black truffle festivals, one in February and the other in August (although I don’t recommend an August visit to Le Marche, see the ‘When to Go’ section below).

READ MORE: How to Make the Most of Visiting an Italian Truffle Festival

Go Skydiving

You probably don’t associate Italy with skydiving, but the region of Le Marche specifically is known for being a great spot for it. It even made #8 on this list of top skydiving sites in the world!

On my first trip to Le Marche, several of the other people in the traveling group went skydiving for the first time in Le Marche and absolutely loved it. Whether it would be your first time doing it, or you have a lot of jumps under your belt, Le Marche is THE PLACE to skydive.

Inhale the Aroma of Sunflowers

Even if you didn’t know that sunflower fields abound in Le Marche before your trip, any road trip in the region at the right time of year will inevitably drive past lovely yellow expanses.

Sunflowers typically bloom in early summer, with the exact dates depending on the weather conditions that year. If you love flowers, or sunflowers in particular, you can see beautiful fields of them all over Le Marche.

When to Go

There are lot of great times during the year to visit Le Marche. What will be best for you of course, all depends on which activities appeal to you most:

Sunflowers are typically in peak bloom in late June through July.
The Acqualagna Truffle Festival typically takes place in late October and early November.
Fall and spring are probably the most comfortable seasons for hiking.
And of course the beach will be most pleasant in summer, and less crowded before and after.

I visited in early July when I saw sunflowers, I did a road trip to walled cities and caves around Le Marche last September, and I went to the Acqualagna truffle festival and nearby towns in early November. All wonderful trips =)

The only thing I would caution against is visiting in August. Pretty much all Italians (as well as other Europeans) take vacation then, so the beaches and attractions are likely to be packed.

And for me, a big part of the appeal of visiting Le Marche is heading to a destination *without* the crowds.

The diversity of activities to do in Le Marche is quite amazing, and even if you’re looking for a relaxed itinerary, there are plenty of places to kick up your heels and enjoy the countryside or the coast. Just like most of my all-time favorite destinations, there are a lot of varied activities available and beautiful scenery along the way.

Have you been to Le Marche? Any things to do that I missed and should add? What activities are most likely to draw you to visit a new place?

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The Best Tour of the Sydney Opera House: Backstage at 7am

May 4, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 4 comments

Anyone who knows me will tell you that I’m not a morning person, but I can be persuaded to wake up early for the right motivation. The Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House, which only runs once a day at 7am, is one of the best tours I’ve ever taken and was definitely worth the early morning.

I first read about this possibility in my Lonely Planet Australia (Travel Guide)>Lonely Planet Australia book, and immediately circled that part of the entry and knew I’d find a way to make the tour happen during my few days in Sydney. Luckily, not only was the tour available, but we ended up being the only two people and got a very personalized experience.

Sydney Opera House in the Morning Light

Overview: Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House

The Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House is only offered at 7am, because by around 9 or 10am rehearsals begin, and then all of the stage areas are off-limits to tourists. Which means that on the tour, you get to be backstage before performers arrive!

It basically is an intimate look at the Opera House, getting to see several stages and concert halls, and all of the places behind the scenes that you won’t get to go when you attend a performance. Plus, since it’s an early morning start, the tour also includes breakfast.

Seeing the Stages

As you stroll through the stages, there are a ton of pieces from the sets of various performances. It’s incredibly cool to see them up close, however they tend to be copyright-protected (who knew that theater sets were such serious business?) so you won’t see any photos of them below.

Although the sets are proprietary, fortunately the stages and theaters are not. I got some great shots from the stage looking outward:

I Danced on Stage at the Sydney Opera House!

And Did a Bit of Conducting

Of the pretty amazing performance spaces, the Concert Hall is the largest. It has also hosted an incredible list of presenters and performers, from Pope John Paul II to Kanye West to Ella Fitzgerald to Arnold Schwarzenegger. Here is a glimpse:

Backstage Access

Getting to go backstage is kind of implied in the tour name, and it was just as cool as I had imagined. Performances at the Sydney Opera House are frequent throughout the year, so there are inevitably some cool details to spot. Some of my favorites:

The Pit Dress Code (pardon that this is a bit fuzzy with the lighting). Also, thongs = flip flops in Australian.

“Don Q” Group Notes for the Dance Numbers

Lipstick Wall of Good Luck

The Green Room

The Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House usually begins with breakfast in the Green Room, a holding room for performers before and after a show. During my visit however, it still had not been cleaned up from the previous night, so we ate elsewhere. We still got to visit though, and get an actual glimpse of what it looks like all set up:

Food Spread from the Previous Night

Yes, the Green Room has a View of the Sydney Harbour Bridge. Bring your sunnies!

Backstage Tour = Getting to Play the Piano in the Green Room

Building Architecture

Probably the most recognizable building in Australia, the Opera House with its white sails is an iconic part of the view of Sydney. Getting to go on a tour of the Sydney Opera House, there is so much you learn and also realize by seeing the building exterior up close.

A fairly unknown Danish architect won an international contest for the building’s design back in the 1950s. There was a bit of drama along the way with construction (the architect eventually resigned from the project!) but everyone of course loves the final product.

The most surprising things to me were all the things I found out about the white sails. I don’t know how much I had ever thought about it before, but the sails are meant to be like the sails of a boat, given the Opera House’s position right on Sydney Harbour (yup, I’m spelling it like the Aussies do).

Not only are the different heights of the sails a nice aesthetic effect, but it’s also functional, as it represents the varying heights of the differently-sized performance spaces inside.

And when you get up close to the sails, you realize that there’s actually texture and a pattern overlaid on top, it’s not just painted white:

Amazing detail of the sails that you can only really see up close

Practical Tips for Visiting

For the Backstage Tour, your best bet is to reserve online in advance. Tickets purchased this way are offered at a 10% discount, and you’ll guarantee your spot, especially given the time of day. Plus, not all days are open like the morning I went. There is just the one tour at 7am each day, and there is a daily cap at 12 people.

TIP! Since the Backstage Tour has such an early start, I also recommend that you book accommodations somewhere nearby or with an easy time to get to the Opera House. That way you’ll be sure to arrive on time.

Here is a breakdown of the 2 main tours offered:

Sydney Opera House Tour
offered 9am-5pm
1 hour
37 AUD

The Backstage Tour
7am only, daily except Christmas & Good Friday
2.5 hours
165 AUD

Prices listed are before the 10% online discount, so you’ll pay a bit less when booking online.

Even if you can’t get in for the 7am Backstage Tour of the Sydney Opera House, I’d recommend taking one of the regular tours so you can see the inside of the building. Another way to get a glimpse inside is to buy tickets to attend one of the events held there, which include all sorts of musical and theatrical performances.

But really, if you want a close-up look of the inner workings of this iconic Australian landmark, and lots of time to explore inside, I can’t recommend the Backstage Tour enough!

Would you be willing to brave the early wake up to take the Backstage Tour? Any other tips I missed for visiting the Sydney Opera House?

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Top 10 Things to See & Do at the Dubai Mall (that aren’t shopping!)

May 2, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 6 comments

Shopping isn’t exactly my thing, despite my years living in Milan, so you may be wondering exactly how I ended up at the Dubai Mall as my first stop in the UAE.

Arriving from Oman, after a week-long (and very hospitable time) on a road trip with my sister, she was in charge of picking our first destinations. We had already lined up a trip for the next day, so it would be our time to explore Dubai together before she flew home.

I had an extra day before I would be leaving, so I deferred to my sister. And the spot she wanted to check out most was the Dubai Mall.

When I entered the Dubai Mall, it certainly felt initially like walking into any of the many shopping malls I’ve visited around the world. But it didn’t take long to realize that it was in fact a giant building filled with art and activities to create wonder, and you never knew what surprise would be around the next turn.

The word ‘mall’ has many connotations for me – and let’s be real, most of them involve shopping!

Yet somehow other than buying food and paying for activities, neither of us managed to make any purchases in our nearly 10 hours at the mall.

Basically, the Dubai Mall is what you would get if you had a team of very creative people design a space that would make you keep wandering for hours upon hours and never want to leave.

A few of my top ‘Things to See and Do’ listed below were on my radar and others were surprises along the way. Or tips from readers after my first Facebook post after arriving at the mall – thanks!

Here are the things you won’t want to miss:

Things to See and Do

Dubai Aquarium and Underwater Zoo

Yes, there is one of the world’s largest Aquarium’s located *inside* of the Dubai Mall.

Even if you’re not planning to go inside (we didn’t), there is a giant observation tank spanning several levels of the mall, open for anyone to see. It is listed on mall signs, and you’ll also notice if you walk nearby by the huge crowds watching the marine life inside.

The Aquarium has a ton to offer, including the ability to do a Shark Dive or Cage Snorkel inside the tank – check out the section of the above link on ‘Aquatic Experiences.’

Waterfall

Sure, you say, you’ve seen waterfalls before. Out in nature, and possibly even inside of other shopping malls.

But this waterfall is massive, and probably has something you haven’t seen before – human figures diving inside the water. The combination of natural features and crafted art makes for an interesting effect as you stare up the full four stories of this creation.

Dinosaur Skeleton: “Dubai Dino”

When my Dubai blogger friend Millie, the Very Hungry Explorer, inquired, “Have you visited the dinosaur yet?” I honestly didn’t know what to think. But it turns out there is an actual dinosaur skeleton just hanging out in full view in the Grand Atrium for anyone to visit.

And of course, since it’s the Dubai Mall, it is lit up in a deep bluish-purple instead of just being simply displayed. From the girl who walked around in 3^rd grade telling people that I wanted to be a paleontologist, seeing a dinosaur skeleton someplace unexpected had me geeking out – thanks, Millie!

Dubai Ice Rink

Yes, Dubai is in the Middle East where temperatures range from hot to hotter. But this is the inside of a shopping mall, so anything is possible.

The ice skating rink has sessions practically all day, so if you’re interested in taking a spin on the ice to cool off from the sweltering heat outside. One of the many things you’ll find at the Dubai Mall that other malls wouldn’t even dream of.

Authentic Emirati Cuisine at Milas Restaurant

In general, finding local food is much harder than you might imagine in Dubai. Outside workers outnumber locals by a margin of about 8 to 1, so there are far more south Asians for example than there are Emiratis.

And with the vast ethnic offerings of the Food Court, you feel like you have every option under the sun besides Emirati cuisine.

Although this restaurant can be a bit difficult to find, if you’re by the ice rink, head through the passageway with all of the blue jeans for sale. You’ll arrive at the Village Atrium section of the mall with colorful umbrellas displayed overhead and some traditional Emirati hospitality and delicious food at Milas.
Observation Deck “At the Top” of the Burj Khalifa

The Burj Khalifa is the tallest building in the world – and it’s located at the Dubai Mall!

The Observation Decks are popular, but worth it for the view of the city. For everything you need to know about visiting, read my comprehensive blog post with Tips and What to Expect Going Up the Burj Khalifa.
Light Show on Burj Khalifa

I didn’t know this until I was on the Observation Deck in the early evening, and lights along the outside of the Burj Khalifa started flashing and moving.

Of course, you can’t really appreciate the designs unless you’re outside the building looking on, but the light show is colorful and mesmerizing as it flashes between the different patterns.

It runs starting at 6:45pm at set intervals around the Dubai Fountain Show (see the next item!).

Dubai Fountain Show

Different from the light display on the Burj Khalifa itself, the Dubai Fountain Show is its own spectacle of water fountains shooting into the air and synced with lights and music. It runs twice in the early afternoon, and then every half-hour from 6:00 until 11:00 pm.

It’s incredibly well done, and this is after I’ve seen similarly choreographed shows from Hong Kong to Singapore to Plovdiv, Bulgaria. Click the link above for the full schedule of when to catch it.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Leading up to the half hour, people crowd the edges of the fountain to get a good viewing spot. Go well before the show starts so you can find somewhere you can see – I recommend the bridge, where you’re a bit elevated above the crowd.

Souk Al Bahar

Housed in a separate building from the Dubai Mall, the Souk Al Bahar is located on the other side of the Dubai Fountain.

The interior is stunning, in a traditional Arabic style. It is filled with restaurants, cafes, and all varieties of shops selling anything from spices and fresh dates to clothing and jewelry.

Even if you’re not planning to buy anything, it’s worth walking inside before or after the Dubai Fountain Show (see above).

Adventure Experiences

Who knows how many miles or kilometers we walked exploring all the different areas of the Dubai Mall, but after our late dinner and watching all the nighttime entertainment, we headed back to our hotel in anticipation of an early wake-up the following morning.

But with more time (or different priorities), there are plenty of adventures to be had around the Dubai Mall:

Sega Republic: This indoor theme park and gaming area includes everything from an indoor roller coaster to virtual reality simulations to traditional arcade games. You can see the Dubai Mall listing with a map of how to find it or just follow the signs inside the mall.
Ferrari F1 Race Simulator: At the Ferrari store of course, there are multiple simulators that let you choose between several different racetracks to test out your abilities as a race car driver.
Emirates A380 Flight Simulator: The Airbus A380 is the world’s largest passenger aircraft, and you can try flying one into 12 of the busiest airports in this simulation. You earn points based on your skill and can see how you stack up to other wannabe pilots. Find it at the Emirates store here, not far from Milas Restaurant!

Practical Tips for Visiting

The Dubai Mall is easily metro accessible via the Burj Khalifa/Dubai Mall stop on the red line. Conveniently, the Airport is also on the metro’s red line, if you’re planning to visit on a layover in Dubai. You can find a user-friendly Dubai metro map here.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Be sure to hold on to your metro ticket. You’ll need it to exit.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! The metro station at the Dubai Mall can be quite busy, so buy tickets for both directions when you go.

It’s also important to note that the pathway from the metro to the mall takes a bit of time to walk through, and then of course the Dubai Mall is so enormous that you’ll be doing a lot of walking to get around. And like us, you could easily spend 10 hours at the mall – and that’s without any shopping!

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Allow plenty of extra time, especially if you have a timed ticket for a specific attraction. This goes both for getting between the Dubai Mall and the metro station, and also within the mall itself.

TRAVEL SAVVY TIP! Wear comfortable shoes. No matter how much walking you expect to be doing, you’ll be doing more thank you think!

One of the other reasons you’ll enter the Dubai Mall and have no reason to leave: Free WiFi.

Given that the Dubai Mall receives nearly 100 million visitors a year (!!), it’s impressive that there is free and typically fast WiFi available for all of the mall visitors.

Although I didn’t manage to do any shopping at the Dubai Mall, it is the usual purpose of having all those stores in one place.

There are plenty of luxury brands represented, and it even may be cheaper for you to buy items in Dubai. This of course depends on where you’re coming from and what currency you’re using. Certainly the Dubai Mall has unparalleled options all under the same roof.

The same goes for eating, from restaurants and snack vendors around the mall to the massive food court with ample seating. We stopped at the food court ourselves for a mid-afternoon snack to fuel the exploration.

But even if you’re like me and aren’t that into clothes shopping or malls typically, you’ll still have plenty to keep you entertained and staring in wonder as you explore all the things the Dubai Mall has to offer.

Have you been to the Dubai Mall? What was the attraction you enjoyed most? Any other things you’d recommend that I missed?

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Best Views in Stockholm, Sweden

April 27, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

In any new place, I search for a high spot where I can overlook the city or surrounding area, so I knew I’d be seeking out the best views in Stockholm on my visit last summer. I’ll pretty much go anywhere to see a sweeping vista, whether it’s an elevator ride to the top of a tall building (like ascending the Burj Khalifa in Dubai and Berlin’s TV Tower), climbing hundreds of stairs to the top of a tower (like I’ve done in Cremona and Florence) or trekking to the tops of hills (which I did on a random island in Oman and in Plovdiv, Bulgaria).

Yes, I like to find lookout points when I travel. Guilty as charged.

Before visiting Stockholm for the first time, there were many things I didn’t realize. For example, I didn’t know Stockholm was a city on water, composed of over a dozen islands and forming Sweden’s larges archipelago.

This means that in Stockholm there are pretty fabulous views any time you’re on the edge of one of the many islands, or crossing a bridge on foot. Ditto for any time you’re up one of Stockholm’s hills or sloping streets, where you can get a peek out over the city. And of course, there are many high-up vantage points as well.

With summer approaching again, Scandinavia will be quite the popular destination in the coming months, although if you haven’t booked a trip yet, consider visiting after summer.

This list of the best views in Stockholm is focused on elevated viewpoints, where you get a sweeping view of the city, and also includes some memorable spots at ground level to take in the scenery. Enjoy!

Best Views

Skeppsholmsbron

This bridge connects the Blasieholmen peninsula of central Stockholm to the island of Skeppsholmen. What makes it worth seeking out for a photo and one of the best views in Stockholm? The many gilded, golden crowns atop the iron bridge railings, which make for a wonderful shot of the city with both the crown and the view:

Skinnarviksberget

This highest point in Södermalm is also the highest natural point in central Stockholm, with views to match. There are actually several viewpoints in relatively close proximity, including Ivar Los Park and Katarinahissen (see below), but I like this one the best. This also seems to be the spot locals prefer.

First, it is further off the beaten path and a bit harder to access – by a dirt path at the end of Gamla Lundagatan street – so there are far fewer people. In fact, the morning that I went up, I was the *only* person there for nearly a half hour, and even then only a few other people arrived. Plus, check out this view:

Other Good Vantage Points

Millesgården

Formerly the home of world-renowned sculptor Carl Milles, the Millesgården is open to the public now as an art museum, with a sculpture garden featuring his works. It is from the garden that you’ll get one of the best views of Stockholm on the far side of the central part of the city and out toward the archipelago. Great for a very different perspective of the city:

Ivar Los Park

It’s a bit of a stroll to get here no matter how you arrive, but this quaint park with greenery and benches is along the Södermalm coast facing central Stockholm and the island of Gamla Stan, like the Skinnarviksberget view mentioned above as my top lookout spot.

If you don’t have time to make it to Skinnarviksberget, the park offers a very similar view, although you may encounter other tourists when you go. There were a few people when I visited, but if you’re lucky you can still score a seat at one of the many benches and take some time to enjoy this view:

Katarinahissen

This was far more popular than the Skinnarviksberget and Ivar Los Park lookouts on Södermalm, since it is right by a metro stop and a bridge from the island of Gamla Stan. Originally known as the Katarina Elevator, unfortunately the elevator is not working right now, although there are wooden stairs that you can climb to the top. Also at the top is the Eriks Gondolen restaurant, where you can grab a coffee or a meal and enjoy one of the best views in Stockholm:

Fjällgatan

Still on Södermalm, but on the other side of Gamla Stan, is what was by far the most crowded scenic point, although being further down the coast, the perspective of the city is a bit different. Tour bus after tour bus rounds the corner of the road leading up to the lookout, and offloads dozens of passengers, so it can get quite crowded. I ended up here twice last July, once for a quick stop on a tour bus and once on foot, and it was packed both times.

If you stroll away from the corner where the buses line up, you can get a less-crowded view from the small park with a little patch of greenery, but you’ll still have plenty of company. The view remains lovely:

Central Coastline

Walking pretty much anywhere along the water will offer beautiful, and different, views. I enjoyed hugging the coastline of Central Stockholm, starting by the Centralstation train stop and heading east to Skeppholmsbron (see above) and beyond. The coastline of the island of Gamla Stan also offers lovely vistas along the water, especially close to The Royal Palace and entrance to Old Town:

Of course, there are countless ways to see a city, and while I made it to quite a few stunning viewpoints, I didn’t quite make it everywhere. If you’ve already scoped out the best views in Stockholm above, there are a few other options for lookout spots to explore.

First, there are many boat rides that will give you a whole new perspective on the city, from short loops to longer tours of the archipelago. I was having too much fun exploring on foot to make this a priority during my visit, but it is definitely something to seek out in Stockholm if you have the time.

There are also two other high-up viewpoints that weren’t as high a priority for me. Kaknästornet, the TV tower with an observation deck, was just enough off the beaten path that I didn’t make it there. Also, the very central Stadhuset, the City Hall which also has a lookout tower. I was enjoying the outdoor lookout points in the beautiful, sunny weather during my visit, and limited the time I spent indoors. But both would be great spots to see the city as well.

And if you’d like to read more about what it’s like to visit Stockholm, check out which unexpected food you should seek out in the city and where I had my best meals there.

Do you seek out high viewpoints when you travel, too? Or is there something else that you like to do everywhere you visit? Any other Stockholm views you’d recommend that didn’t make my list? Share in the Comments below.

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How to Spend One Day in Cremona, Italy

April 25, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Living in Milan, I was always on the lookout for easy day trips from the city, and I just could not pass up the opportunity to check out Cremona. What started on a whim turned into one of the most rewarding day trips I took anywhere during my three years in Italy.

What makes a day in Cremona so incredible? Like Mainz (my favorite day trip from Frankfurt, Germany), Cremona has stunningly beautiful sights to see, all of which can be visited in a single, relaxing day. This makes it a perfect candidate for a day trip, when you can see quite a bit and feel like you’ve covered the main tourist attractions.

I arrived seeking out the world-famous Stradivarius violins, and found so much more to explore and appreciate when I arrived. Even this New York Times article notes, “There’s More to Cremona Than Violins.” Most of the top things to do are around the main square, or piazza, with other sights to see depending on your interests.

That is not to discount the beauty of the violins, though. I spent far longer in the Violin Museum than I typically would, both for the extensive, interactive exhibits and also the sheer beauty of the Stradivarius violins. As happens to me sometimes, I stood awestruck at the incredible beauty and craftsmanship of the violins. Truly mesmerizing, and this is not just blogger hyperbole here. You can read more about this top experience of 2016 for me here in my post about being thankful, and of course below.

Cremona, despite not having a university or nearby wine region, is one of the more impressive places you can spend a day in Italy. A few reasons why…

Things to Do

Cathedral & Baptistery

Cremona’s Cathedral is quite impressive, dating back to the 12^th century and decorated inside with beautiful artwork. The complex is quite large, and each facade has a different appearance to take in. The octagonal Baptistery nearby is formally a Cathedral annex, where children would be baptized before being allowed to enter the Cathedral. It is a fairly bare building possibly more impressive from the outside, but it’s worth popping in if you’ve purchased a combination ticket (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting‘ section below).

Piazza del Commune

This is the main piazza in town, where you’ll find the Cathedral, Baptistery, and Bell Tower. However, the piazza itself is quite striking, and there are a variety of open areas with sculptures and other art along its perimeter. Leave aside time just to wander around, especially along the many pedestrian side streets that connect to the square.

Torazzo Bell Tower & Astronomical Clock

The Bell Tower and its Astronomical Clock, adjacent to the Cathedral, were two unexpected superlatives of my time in Cremona. The Torazzo of Cremona is the 3^rd-tallest brick tower in the world! Not only can you gaze upon it from the Piazza del Commune, but it is also possible to climb its 502 steps to the top. I love being able to get a high viewpoint whenever I can as I travel, and it’s lovely to look over the surrounding countryside.

On the outside facade of the Torazzo is the largest astronomical clock in the world! It tracks the movements of the sun and moon, as well as eclipses. You can get a closer look at its inner mechanism and explore an exhibit about how it works when you climb the tower. Definitely one of the highlights of my day.

Violin Museum (Museo del Violino)

This is the main attraction for most visitors to Cremona, and one of the best museums I’ve ever visited. Unfortunately pictures are forbidden inside, however I’ve included a picture above from when some instruments were on loan to another museum.

Highlights of visiting included the detailed and interactive displays on crafting violins, from the most famous ones made by Antonio Stradivari to those crafted by other local artisans. Stradivari even made a pretty fabulously-decorated guitar! I was completely mesmerized by the beauty of his instruments, and just couldn’t take my eyes off of them. You can read more about the experience here in my post about being thankful.

Another of the most interesting parts for me were the instruments on display from the many years of the triennial violin-making competition. Not only could you see the various violins, violas, basses, and cellos on display, but there were snippets of music that had been played on each that you could listen to on the audio guide. And they really did all sound different!

TIP! There are a lot of concerts and special events at the museum, check the schedule online before you go.

TIP! If you’d like to visit during the triennial violin-making competition, the next one is in 2018!

Best Bites

Hosteria 700

I sought this restaurant out because it offers a lot of Cremonese specialties, like the stuffed marubini pasta, often filled with a mixture of beef, chicken, and veal. They also have some innovative ways to present Italian ingredients, like the shockingly sweet caramelized onion tatin, with a gelato made of grana cheese. A very elevated and satisfying dining experience for such a small Italian town.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

The easiest way to arrive in Cremona is by train, and most sights are in easy walking distance of the train station. There are many direct trains a day from Milan, as well as other northern Italian towns, like Brescia. Cremona is just over an hour by train from Milan.

When you arrive, a lot of the main sights to see are part of the Cathedral complex. Be sure to ask about combined entrance tickets for discounted admission.

Certainly this is not an exhaustive list of the sights to see in Cremona, and a lot of the beauty I took in was just from strolling around town. If you spend more time or have a more ambitious itinerary, you can seek out some of the other tourist attractions, like the Stradivarius house, the Archaeological Museum, the Po River, and other churches around town.

Have you ever visited a place for a single sight? Would *you* go to Cremona just to see the Stradivarius violins?

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Bringing Common Sense Back to the Discussion after the United Airlines Fiasco

April 20, 2017 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

When the media frenzy started about the passenger dragged off a recent overbooked United Airlines flight, I watched the video in horror, like many of you. And then – probably unlike many of you – instead of heading straight for my social media soapbox, I had a bit of the opposite reaction. I instead wanted instead to run away from the incident and bury my head in the sand.

But Lana, you say, you’re a travel blogger, surely your initial instinct should have been to weigh in.

Well, I think that to some extent, wanting to weigh in right away is exactly the problem with reactionary responses to viral videos and news. Of course, the available, partial information is presented in a certain light. Most people will then follow the lead of the media and have the expected reaction without taking the time for research and critical thought.

Like with all controversial situations, there is more than one side to the story. And not all facts come to light right away. What circulates initially on social media is one of those perspectives, but certainly not the only one.

But I digress. This all started way before the latest “injustice” making the rounds on social media.

Collectively, let’s all take a step back for a minute. Yes, you over there jumping up and down about how United Airlines is evil, this means you. Here I take what I’ll characterize as the logical, fact-based approach. Trying to get a full picture of what happened, and where to go from here.

For me, the bottom lines are as follows:

Were the actions taken by United on the right side of regulations currently in place? Unclear.
Was this good PR for United? Certainly not.
Was this good for United’s bottom line? No to this one as well.

Now, let’s break down each of these points.

#1 | What was the correct way to handle this situation based on regulations?

To reiterate the basic facts of what happened, this incident took place on a United Airlines flight from Chicago to Louisville. After the passengers boarded, 4 United staff members who needed to get to Louisville arrived at the gate. Airline staff tried to get 4 volunteers for passengers to give up their seats, first by offering $400 in vouchers, then $800.

When no one took these offers, 4 passengers were chosen to deplane based on the airline’s algorithm. One passenger who was a doctor, David Dao, refused to give up his seat. He said he needed to see patients and couldn’t be delayed. Airline staff then called local airport security to remove this passenger. He resisted, and was dragged screaming up the aisle.

During this time Dr. Dao was injured and appears to have become unconscious. His injuries include a concussion, a broken nose, and two teeth that were knocked out. He was bloodied as he was dragged, and also when he arrived back on the plane a bit later disoriented. All taped by passengers, which you can see in this You Tube video.

I know, it’s horrifying. Horrifying to watch and equally horrifying to consider that the situation could have happened to any one of us. But just because it is graphic and scary, doesn’t mean that there is a clear right and wrong in terms of what should have occurred.

Honestly, the correct way for the airline to handle this particular situation is actually unclear, despite the many people claiming otherwise. On both sides of the argument.

United keeps pointing to its Contract of Carriage. Which is convenient, but despite being quite lengthy, actually does not specifically cover this situation. The Rule about “Denied Boarding Compensation” does just that – describes how to handle compensation for passengers who are not allowed to board the plane.

But what about passengers already on board? If they’re unruly or haven’t paid for their ticket or are intoxicated, or a bunch of other very specific scenarios, then Rule 21 about “Refusal of Transport” applies. You can be removed from the aircraft. By force, if necessary.

But if you don’t meet these conditions? Was it outside of the Contract of Carriage for flight attendants to contact security to forcibly remove Dr. Dao? This is where things get fuzzy.

It is unclear (or at least open to interpretation) as to whether Dr. Dao violated the Contract of Carriage. If he did, and failed to comply with crew member instructions, removal would be justified. If he didn’t, then he was within his passenger rights to keep his seat once he boarded and the airline had no grounds to remove him.

For a detailed legal analysis of the situation, a law professor from Cornell talks about the nuances of the situation. And you can read The Points Guy doing a bit of backtracking and arguing that the blame belongs on United.

However, many people have been quick to point out that traveling on an airplane is a bit of a different situation than many of the analogies being offered as to why United Airlines is in the wrong.

This is usually part of the safety briefing about “complying with all crew member instructions.” It sounds very serious. And it is, because you can be kicked off of a plane if you don’t.

At the end of the day, the safety of the crew and other passengers is dependent on everyone flying being able to follow crew member instructions.

As Mike Rowe noted in his passionate argument for all airline passengers complying with directives from flight attendants,“I don’t want to fly across the country in a steel tube filled with people who get to decide which rules they will follow and which they will ignore.” Fair enough.

Angelia of The Pilot Wife Life blog has a similar take, arguing for air safety for all. Especially as the wife of a pilot, and especially after past hijacking incidents (including September 11^th). As she noted:

“If a federal law enforcement officer asks me to exit a plane, no matter how royally pissed off I am, I’m going to do it and then seek other means of legal reimbursement. True story.”

And Angelia also pointed out the nuances of the must fly situation, in which a few members of airline staff must get to their destination to staff a flight. Because it is displacing a few people to keep hundreds more on track with their travel plans and also because it is federal regulation to do so.

Confused yet? You should be. The issue has a lot of complexities, and there is not a clear right and wrong in terms of the specific incident with Dr. Dao. I imagine that ultimately the courts will decide this one.

#2 | Was it good PR to select 4 passengers to deplane when no one volunteered? Absolutely not.

I think we can all agree here, with the subsequent backlash and bad publicity, United Airlines now has a huge public relations, or PR, challenge on its hands. Whether their actions were in the right or not is pretty irrelevant when it comes to customer perception.

Frankly, right now, whether it’s accurate or not, United is coming across as the evil company who cares more about its bottom line than its passengers.

First, from the airline staff booting confirmed and paying customers who had already boarded the plane, instead of paying for another way for those staff members to arrive in Louisville. And second, for capping the compensation offered for volunteers at $800, and not increasing it until they had identified 4 willing volunteers to deplane.

One of the interesting points here is that the compensation caps for the airlines were designed for enticing customers to voluntarily give up their seats before boarding. Game theory tells us that the perceived value of something is in fact higher after someone has taken ownership.

Irrational? Perhaps. But that is how the world works as is so expertly explained in this NPR overview on how game theory relates to airline booking.

As the article points out, the value people place on an item changes based on whether they have it yet. It may sound irrational, but that is how the human mind works apparently.

In the example in the article, a person might offer a price of $5 in the hypothetical of being asked to judge how much a coffee mug is worth. Once they’ve received the mug and you’re asking them to part with it? The “person is likely to want considerably more money, say $10. And, it’s the same thing with airplane seats.”

The monetary cap that is usually enough to get volunteers to give up their seats before boarding is unlikely to be enough once passengers are seated. And United should have taken this into account.

#3 | Was it good for United’s business and bottom line to remove these passengers? Don’t think so.

There was a market loss for United Airlines stock after the incident with Dr. Dao, and subsequent response by the United CEO. A #boycottunited effort is underway.

But I think the real unknown here in terms of how this will impact United’s bottom line is down the road. How this will impact future bookings and the company’s bottom line in the long-term?

How This Situation Could Have (Possibly) Been Avoided

Are there slight changes that would have possibly changed the outcome, and avoided the situation of Dr. Dao being forcibly removed from the flight? Probably.

A few thoughts on what might have led to a different outcome:

Airline staff showing up sooner (aka before boarding) to check in for a destination they needed to reach for work. Then United could have offered incentives or bumped passengers following the exact guidelines of their Contract of Carriage.
Other passengers volunteering to deplane, although if you read through the section of #2 above about game theory, this was less likely once passengers were already settled in their seats. Without substantially more enticement.
United staff requesting (and getting) approval from higher up the chain of command to offer a higher value of vouchers, or cash, for passengers willing to deplane.
Even though I think it’s questionable whether Dr. Dao was in violation of United’s Contract of Carriage and whether United had the right to remove a paying customer once he had boarded (see #1 above), when the request was made, had the passenger followed directions to deplane, despite feeling wronged in that moment. And then taken the issue up later with the airline.

But since we can’t travel back in time and change the outcome, instead of focusing on all of the “what ifs,” let’s look forward.

The Good News in All of This?

While it will probably take years for the courts and legal challenges around this specific incident to be sorted out, the good news is that airlines are enacting measures to prevent similar occurrences in the future. American carriers are stepping up to alter or clarify existing policies, and adopt new ones to avoid another similar incident.

One of the contributing factors to the incident was that staff members who needed to fly to Louisville checked in at the counter after passengers had boarded. Which they were allowed to do per United Airlines policy at the time, up until the moment a plane left the gate.

In terms of United, the biggest change is that staff now has to check in at least 60 minutes before flight departure and no crew member can bump a passenger who has already boarded. Both key distinctions for how they will handle similar situations moving forward.

American Airlines has since updated the ‘Oversales’ section of its Contract of Carriage to state that “American will not involuntarily remove a revenue passenger who has already boarded in order to give a seat to another passenger.” Which wouldn’t actually cover a similar situation of airline staff who needed to fly, but is at least a start in clarifying what actions airline staff can take for passengers who’ve already boarded.

While United has not released whether it has placed a new monetary cap on compensation, Delta has announced higher caps on compensation amounts. Delta gate agents are now authorized to offer up to $2,000, and supervisors can offer much more if needed, up to $9,950.

Certainly it is up to the airline to decide when and how often it is worth paying very high monetary amounts to avoid incidents with passengers and save face publicly.

In general, airlines at pretty successful at enticing customers to volunteer. Of the approximately 500,000 people who were asked to give up their seats in the US last year, nearly 92% did so voluntarily. Only 40,000 of those were involuntarily bumped. And all of those passengers received compensation of some sort.

I imagine that in the long-term, the consistent policy of overbooking will be under review. Overbooking is designed to ensure a full airplane in most situations, since there are almost always some people who have bought tickets who will be delayed or cancel their flight at the last moment. This works most of the time.

Of course, the policy of overbooking usually makes the airline more money, but at some point the money or vouchers given to passenger volunteers will outweigh those other financial gains. Especially with a larger cap on compensation.

And I imagine whatever legal action Dr. Dao chooses to take may result in updated regulations for airlines and clearer rights for passengers who’ve purchased tickets.

Only time will tell…

Alright, folks, thanks for reading. I’ll get off my soapbox for the moment.

Now back to your regularly scheduled TSG travel inspiration, intel, and tips…

And happy travels!

Lana

Have you ever volunteered to give up your seat or been bumped involuntarily? How do *you* think the airlines should be addressing what happened? Are the new policies enough? I would love to hear about your thoughts and experiences in the Comments.