Top Travel Destinations of 2019

January 8, 2019 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Happy new year!

This year is starting off in an unusual way for me – it’s January and other than a weekend trip by train to New York City, I don’t have a single trip planned yet.

Which means I’m in as much a need of some travel direction as everyone else who hasn’t made any big travel plans for the year ahead.

For my top travel destinations to recommend for 2019, I’ve included a mix of locations hosting special events worth seeking out and also some new, not-too-overrun spots to check out. My past lists have mostly focused on countries, but this year’s list has a few specific cities and sites as well.

And for the first time, it’s divided into sections: New Recommendations for 2019 & Previous Recommendations I’m Highlighting. With some great spots I’ve never featured before and also some previous destinations that are especially great to consider this year.

Without further ado, I present – in alphabetical order – this year’s top 6 new travel picks:

Berlin (Germany)

If you’ve never been to Berlin, the first image of the city that may come to mind is a view of the wall coming down. Which is exactly what the city commemorates this year – the 30^th anniversary of reunification. The Berlin Wall did not fall until November of 1989, however there will be a lot of special exhibits and events throughout the entirety of 2019.

Even separate from the historical significance this year, Berlin is such a cosmopolitan city that it is a great destination anytime.

While plenty of museums focus on the Wall, there is a wealth of other museums like you’d find in any other capital. Excellent food options abound, including many ethnic restaurants, and like any good German city, there is a great beer. Oh, and as you’ll see in the Cheat Sheet below, no shortage of beautiful rooftop views of the metropolis.

READ MORE: Berlin Cheat Sheet

Cambodia

Cambodia is best known for the Angkor Wat temple complexes, which was the main draw when I visited. For me it was one of those places (like Petra in Jordan) that really exceeded expectations. Don’t shortchange yourself and plan to spend at least 2-3 days there exploring, including areas outside of town and closer to nature like Kbal Spean. Plus, the town of Siem Reap keeps developing, with more options every year for exploring local culture and sampling traditional Cambodian cuisine.

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Of course, Cambodia has a lot more to offer beyond its most famous attraction, with plenty of notable cities, beaches, nature, and wildlife areas throughout the country. As most of the tourism centers on Angkor Wat and Siem Reap, you’ll have more relaxed experiences in capital Phnom Penh, in smaller towns, and along most of its coastline.

Chile

Did you miss the total solar eclipse in the US in 2017? I saw the partial eclipse from the roof of my office building, but after hearing others’ accounts of witnessing the complete darkness (or totality), I definitely want to see that for myself. In July of 2019, there is another total solar eclipse coming this time to South America, and many consider Chile to be the best viewing spot. If you’d like to go, now is the time to plan for it.

Georgia

The country of Georgia is probably the item that has been highest on my bucket list for the longest, without me actually having visited yet. So, why go? Like many former Soviet republics, a lot of its wonders were hidden from most of the world during the second half of the twentieth century, but there is so much to entice tourists to this nation bordering the Black Sea.

Georgia has an 8,000 year (!!) history of winemaking, the longest of any country. Once known as the “Tuscany of the Soviet Union,” for decades Russia was Georgia’s main wine consumer, but in recent decades since the break up of the Soviet Union, its wine is more readily available to everyone else. There are incredible monasteries to check out, many of which also produce wine. And like any good wine culture, the food is also amazing.

Enjoying Georgian specialties at Supra restaurant in Washington, DC

I recently enjoyed Georgian food and wine at a local restaurant, and I’m even more obsessed than before!

Norway

Even if you’ve never been to Norway, you’ve probably heard about its dramatic fjords and natural beauty. Sure, you can be a tourist and stick to the cities, but this really is a destination suited to a traveler who enjoys the great outdoors. In summer, boat cruises in the fjords abound. On land, whether its taking a funicular up to enjoy some sweeping views, or hiking up to the same spot, it is stunningly beautiful to take in. In winter, there is snowy exploring, from seeing polar bears in the wild to a chance at viewing the Northern Lights.

Like the rest of Scandinavia, Norway is probably a bit pricey compared to where you currently live, however if you’re planning on a lot of hiking your costs can be kept pretty reasonable. Plus, there are many discount air carriers that go, so transport costs can be quite affordable as well.

The up side of Norway for tourists – like any Scandinavian destination – is that the country is quite safe and English is widely spoken.

The biggest surprise for me on my recent visit was the food. There are the fun, heart-shaped Norwegian waffles and some upscale, Michelin-starred options in the major cities, especially the nature-adjacent oil city of Stavanger.

TIP! Just be conscious of the seasons when you plan your trip, as the warm period is pretty limited to June-August, depending on where exactly in Norway you’re headed.

(Any City) USA

It used to be that America’s smaller cities did not have much to offer the well-traveled visitor, but I’ve noticed quite a change in recent years. With restaurant trends toward locally-inspired products and more and more people identifying as “foodies,” even off-the-beaten-path cities can be excellent travel destinations with ample delicious dining options for a weekend of exploring.

I’ve been pleasantly surprised myself in places like…

Boise, Idaho

Charlottesville, Virginia

https://www.instagram.com/p/BVQmk07grgO/

Detroit, Michigan

https://www.instagram.com/p/BZ9XSrjHLPk/

I hear great things about…

Asheville, North Carolina
Milwaukee, Wisconsin
Pittsburgh, Pennsylvania

And there are plenty of other American cities out there with increasingly more to offer any tourist, and I always find it fun to explore places before they become too popular with other travelers.

This year’s list of new spots is shorter than in previous years, but that’s because so many of my past recommendations are still so timely.

Here are 5 of the destinations I’ve featured previously that are also excellent choices for 2019 travel:

Australia

This country/continent has been a great value destination recently and is even more so for the coming year. There has been a recent further dip in currency, which is bad for my bank account, but great value for travelers who’ve been hesitant about visiting due to cost.

Belize

This Central American gem from the 2018 list continues to be one of the safest and easiest (English-speaking!) travel options in that part of the world.

READ MORE: Exploring Belize’s ATM Cave

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Belize

Liechtenstein

This micro-nation (from the 2017 list) is celebrating its tricentennial – its 300^th anniversary! – this year and will also have a host of special events taking place like some of the other destinations above. It’s an easy add-on if you’re already planning to visit Innsbruck (Austria), Munich (Germany), or Zurich (Switzerland).

Oman

This is another 2017 list pick that is already popping up on many other travel lists this year and continues to be a hot spot for discovering an authentic slice of the Middle East.

READ MORE: Top 12 Things to Do in Oman

Plovdiv (Bulgaria)

Bulgaria made my 2017 list of Top Travel Destinations, and it’s making a return appearance because my favorite city there, Plovdiv, has been designated a 2019 European Capital of Culture. Not only is it an ancient Roman city with plenty of ruins to explore, food in Plovdiv is delicious, and some of Bulgaria’s excellent wine country is nearby. Take advantage of the area especially catering to tourists and providing countless special events by visiting this year.

READ MORE: Best Light Shows Around the World

Certainly there is no shortage of amazing destinations to seek out, regardless of what kind of trip you’re after. What I find to be the most important thing is to make a plan for a year of travel early on, so the months don’t slip by without taking a trip.

Get inspired. And then get out there!

See all of my past annual travel destination recommendations here:

READ MORE: Top 8 Travel Destinations of 2018

I still stand by them all.

Happy travels in the new year, everyone!!

What destinations are inspiring you for 2019 travel? Anywhere I missed that would be a great destination this year? What travel do you already have planned for 2019? Let me know more in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Travel Superlatives 2018

December 19, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Wow, 2018 turned out to be quite the travel whirlwind – filled with many travel highlights, good and bad!

Last year, I explored 2 new countries. This year I made it to 5: Denmark, Honduras, Malta, Nicaragua, and Norway.

Not that I’m so into the whole country counting thing, but I keep track every so often and realized with my recent cruise stop in Honduras, I’ve now been to 59 countries!

This year, with some strategic planning around holidays and generous leave at my full-time job, I also managed several longer trips, many of them returning to some favorite countries and cities I’ve visited before – like Belgium, Italy (where I lived for 3 years!), New Orleans, Philadelphia, and San Francisco.

Across my many trips, there were those moments that stood out for being blissful, with the stars seemingly aligning just right. There were many visually beautiful moments, meandering on a road trip through picturesque scenery or hiking through breathtaking nature. And also hilariously terrible moments when everything seemed to go incredibly wrong and I tried to recover as best I could – or at least wallow in misery and live to travel another day.

Here are some of those memorable travel experiences:

A Multitude of Travel Fails

Sure, I’m Travel Savvy Gal, but how do you think I got so savvy? By doing things wrong, of course! Sometimes repeatedly.

And with all of my travel this year, even with all the things I did do right, it inevitably didn’t *all* go according to plan.

There were the little things that I kicked myself for – not paying attention to my direction and ending up on the sunny side of the bus or train, picking the one seat without a power outlet, or somehow finding the seat with a bar underneath and no space to stow bags.

But my most panicked moment came near the start of my first two-week trip to Europe. And I hadn’t even left the US yet!

After going through security, I was sitting at the bar at one of the airport restaurants and dropped my phone. Which of course I had done dozens of time before, but this was the drop that broke my cell phone for good. But it was so close to boarding time that all I could do was take my flight completely phone-less. On top of which, I had forgotten to set an out-of-office message on my work e-mail and couldn’t complete the authentication to log in without a working cell phone! (Luckily when I arrived in Milan, where I have a lot of friends from my 3 years living there, I was able to borrow a friend’s spare smartphone for the trip – phew!)

Then somehow that carelessness was like a curse that extended through the entire trip. As that two-week European adventure in April progressed, I just was not at my best for staying on top of all my belongings.

In Belgium, after a day of exploring when I first arrived, I took a train to Antwerp to reunite with my best friend from my time in Milan, and completely walked off the train without my main luggage that I had stowed on the shelf above the seats. Luckily, Antwerp was the final stop of the train, so when I realized I had left it behind a minute later, the train was still in the station with its doors open and I was able to walk back on and fetch it.

Then, at the last destination that same trip, on my final day in Copenhagen, I lost my Copenhagen Card – which was basically my pre-paid admission to all of the local attractions and my card to access public transit. So for things like the Carlsburg Brewery tour, I had to pay again to enter. Luckily, it was only about a $20 mistake in the end, but it literally cost me.

New Food Obsession

I don’t get obsessed with a new food every time I visit a new country (I swear!) but my Copenhagen obsession started long before I landed, just by reading a description of local delicacy, smørrebrød. Sure, it’s just an open-faced sandwich – Danish-style – but there is a whole lot more that goes into the perfect bite after perfect bite that I enjoyed there.

It is color, it is texture, it is flavor. All mixed together with the Danish design sensibility that extends to many area of life in Denmark. Plus, it’s incredibly delicious. So yeah, I admit it, I’m totally obsessed.

Luckiest Budget Moment

My first big trip of 2018 was a week in Nicaragua. I was meant to visit with a friend but she had an emergency (don’t worry, everything is fine now!) and had to back out last minute. I briefly debated whether to still go, although let’s be real, being on my own has not dissuaded me from a trip yet. It just meant that it would be a slightly different trip without her company and that I needed to make some adjustments to my plan to account for not splitting expenses two ways anymore.

My biggest in-country transit was between the island of Ometepe and the town of León, and certainly the budget way to traverse the distance was by bus. Although I had taken the converted school buses known as chicken buses on other stretches, on this journey it would have involved going into the capital city of Managua, transferring buses, and leaving again on a different bus.

With the buses stopping frequently, the trip would have taken all day.

I decided that even though I was traveling solo, I would splurge on a private car transfer to the ferry and then from the ferry on the other side, to minimize how much of the day I’d lose in transit.

My lucky moment came when I approached the reception desk at my guesthouse, and I happened to ask about the trip just as a couple was making the exact same inquiry. We even were targeting the same departure time.

So instead of footing the bill alone, I got to split the ride – 3 ways!

And of course, in true travel fashion, it turned out that there was a lot to connect me and the random couple – from hearing about their home in Denver, where my sister had recently moved, to conversing in Hebrew because she turned out to be Israeli. The driver even got in on the lively conversation along the way, with me translating since I was the only person in the group who spoke Spanish.

READ MORE: Top 13 Reasons to Visit Nicaragua

**While Nicaragua was a lovely destination when I visited in January 2018, it is currently not safe for tourists. Be sure to do your research and keep safety as your top priority before booking a trip.**

Craziest Hiking Conditions

I like to hike. Usually with a friend, and often sandwiched in between two city sightseeing days to get some time in nature. Occasionally, I hike solo. I’ve done some serious hiking on my own, but the last time was back in 2016 on a solo weekend in Liechtenstein.

Only because I am a semi-serious hiker, had done multiple 6+ hour hikes on my own before, and had trained before the trip, did I even attempt to hike high up in a Norwegian fjord while solo in late September. Which is basically the beginning of their winter.

Despite the cold, there were a lot of fun elements of the hike, however the final section was so brutal that all four people who started out ahead of me turned back before reaching the end. At that point, I was literally alone. In the middle of nowhere. With no cell service.

At the top, with a third of the hike still remaining, the wind was merciless and there were large patches of black ice, where the rock had iced over but you couldn’t tell if it was wet or icy until you extended a tentative step. Plus, the fog had rolled in and there was barely enough visibility to see from one bright red trail marker to the next.

But I am nothing if not persistent, so while continuing to be cautious, I slowly made my way toward the famous wedged boulder known as Kjerag. As its slightly rounded top was covered in a layer of ice and show, standing on it was not possible, but seeing the spot in view was still so incredibly rewarding.

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Most Drinks Consumed

This one might be a tie. Between a cocktail crawl, giant boozy slushies, a distillery visit, and wine tasting in New Orleans (let the good times roll!) and also California wine country, where a friend and I road-tripped with just two winery reservations and still managed to squeeze in tastings at 12 wineries in basically 2 days.

In both cases, a lot of different venues were involved, and getting to sample all of the delicious concoctions was also incredibly tied to the sense of place in each location.

Travel Research Fails

While in Belgium during my April trip, my main concern when picking when to take a day trip to Ghent, Belgium from my home base in Antwerp was centered in part on the weather and in part on my friend’s schedule. And I didn’t know any better, so didn’t do my due diligence until I was en route and realized just how many museums and restaurants would be closed since it was Wednesday. Which seemed awfully random but now I know and you should, too – so it featured in my blog post with tips for visiting Belgium.

READ MORE: 9 Top Belgium Travel Tips

In Philadelphia in the US, I thought I had done my due diligence when I found a spot with great cocktail reviews close to where I’d be exploring on Saturday afternoon of my weekend trip. After trying and failing to find this amazing bar, some closer looking led me to realize that it was a cocktail school, not a bar where I could order drinks! (Luckily, some alternate options were also nearby, and I enjoyed a great pre-dinner cocktail.)

Most Unexpected Outing

I had briefly been to a secluded beach in the north of Haiti on a cruise with my family over a decade ago. This past February, I returned to a completely different part of the country on a work trip, splitting my time between the capital of Port-au-Prince and the northern Artibonite region. As you might imagine about a country with many travel warnings in place, security is key and was my main focus there.

What was completely unexpected was the cosmopolitan and – thanks to the many aid organizations and non-profits – thriving expat scene in Port-au-Prince. The one Friday night I spent there, I went salsa dancing! Read all about how salsa dancing in P-au-P was different than I expected in the caption below:

https://www.instagram.com/p/BflPTeRnrVl/

Best Sunsets Enjoyed

I’m not much of a morning person, so I’m far more likely to catch sunset than sunrise (other than in winter, like this recent gem spotted on my way to work). After a year of traveling, a few of these stellar sunsets stand out more than most:

I saw several great sunsets in Malta, but the one that stands out the most was spotted toward the end of a whirlwind day I later called my perfect sightseeing day. After many buses, city exploring, a wine tasting, and some coastal hiking, I swam and took in the views as I swelled with the satisfaction of a wonderful, full day of solo exploring and enjoyed the lovely colors as the sun set over the water.

As someone who loves water views, I also took *so many* pictures of sunset on my Caribbean cruise. I still think my favorite views though, were on the first night as the ship left port in Miami just as the sun was going down:

READ MORE: Top Tips for Taking a Cruise

On vacation, watching sunset it usually an item on my itinerary, while at home, I often get caught up doing something without remembering to glance outside. I almost missed this boldly colored one while at home in Baltimore, but then I just happened to look out the window and see how stunning and bright this one was. Luckily I have a rooftop deck and was able to rush up there with both my phone and camera to appreciate its beauty. Plus, snap a few shots, of course.

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Most Unexpected Foodie City

You’re probably expecting me to list some famous city that you have heard of or been to, but may not have realized has a foodie scene.

Well, here goes: Stavanger, Norway. No, doesn’t ring a bell?

Honestly, I had never heard of Stavanger either until I realized that it was the most convenient jumping off point for all of the hiking I wanted to do in the nearby Norwegian fjord. But critical to its foodie scene is the fact that Stavanger is also an oil city and has plenty of high-paid executives that frequently dine out for business and sustain some fancy and delicious places all around town.

Norway’s first Michelin star awarded outside of Oslo was to a Stavanger restaurant back in 2016 (now there are more). And I enjoyed some of my most memorable meals of the year there.

Most Last-Minute Flight Purchase for Vacation

I thought it was cutting things close when I lived in Milan and didn’t buy a ticket for a weekend trip to London until the Wednesday before a Friday afternoon flight. For the first time in my life, when I scanned my boarding pass at the gate, it beeped.

Because I had been tagged as a high security risk.

“Did you by any chance by your ticket in the last 48 hours?”

Why yes, yes I did. After breathing a sigh of relief as they confirmed the likely reason for my being flagged, the flight attendant fortunately had no problem letting me on the flight.

This year, I topped that moment.

I had planned months ahead for my Norway trip, securing a one-way evening flight to Bergen (via Stockholm) on Norwegian Air. Early afternoon the day before my flight, I started getting a series of text notifications about problems with the airplane.

Twenty texts and two hour-long phone calls later, it became apparent that my original flight would be canceled. And I’d be delayed at least one day – if not more – due to the connection I’d then miss.

So I did what any frequent traveler would do – right? I started a whole flurry of activity.

I checked with travel insurance to see what extra costs would be covered. Then I called Norwegian Air on different numbers simultaneously (one on my cell, one on Skype) to get a hold of a person as fast as possible to refund the original flight.

AND then, once my confirmation e-mail came through, I bought a completely new one-way plane ticket to Bergen on a different airline.

By the time this all got sorted out, it was so close to 24 hours before my flight departed the next day that my purchase confirmation and check-in reminder came within 10 minutes of each other!

(And just for the record, Norwegian Air’s Customer Service is excellent – My request took a month to process, but not only did they refund the cost of my original flight, they also paid me for the $300 fare difference for the last-minute flight I booked. So I never did have to make that claim with my travel insurance.)

Biggest Travel Win

A Romanian friend who has been living and working in the US quit her job to return to Europe and wanted to go on a girls’ road trip to San Francisco and nearby wine country in the Napa and Sonoma Valleys. So she called me, obviously! (No arm twisting required.)

We booked flights to California three weeks in advance. As is my usual, I booked the flight, told my friend, then added us to the wait list for all 3 of the nights we’d be in wine country for the most outrageous restaurant in the region, The French Laundry. Which is considered one of the hardest reservations to get in the US (even if you book months ahead of time).

I didn’t think much of this, and had pretty much forgotten all about it by the time we started our trip.

After all, I had joined a wait list for Osteria Francescana in Modena, Italy and for Noma in Copenhagen, Denmark when I visited both areas in April of this year – and didn’t hear from either restaurant. But of course you can’t get in off the wait list if you don’t even try.

So imagine my surprise when I got a call from a California number I didn’t recognize as we were wine tasting up and down the Napa Valley on Sunday afternoon.

The French Laundry has a spot for us? What?!?!??

YES, of course we want to come for dinner on Monday at the French Laundry. Most people make a dinner reservation at The French Laundry, and only *then* book a plane ticket to California. Which was the only way I thought I’d ever be able to go. Then here they were offering me a spot! (Although of course also asking me to pre-pay the $700 for two on my credit card online within the hour at a moment’s notice.)

No problem, sign us up!

In the wake of the flurry of activity securing the reservation, I felt like pinching myself to see if it was all really happening.

I’m still in such disbelief that the website confirmation of my reservation is still open in the browser on my phone 2 weeks later:

After the call and confirming our seats, my friend and I were finally grabbing some lunch in between wine tastings and just looked at each other – did that really just happen??

Those ‘pinch me, is this real?’ moments are what makes me love the travel experience and continue coming back for more. More new experiences, more elation, more crazy disappointment that sometimes is so ridiculous that it borders on the hilarious.

You need the travel blunders to appreciate the wins. Without the lows, you can’t fully appreciate the glorious highs when everything goes right. It may sound counter-intuitive, but it’s true, I promise.

I just try to be present in the moment and savor it all as it comes, grateful to be here and able to experience it all.

For more highlights from recent years, check out my previous Travel Superlatives round up posts:

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2017

READ MORE: Travel Superlatives 2016

What were the highlights of your travel year? And what was the craziest thing that happened to you on the road? Any place that I mentioned you’d like to see more blog posts about?

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Foodie Travel – Top Thing to Eat in Copenhagen, Denmark: Smørrebrød

September 4, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

Sometimes I’ve been known to get obsessed with one specific thing when I travel.

In San Sebastian, Spain, I was consumed by seeking out the best pintxos – the beautiful small bites along with your drink – at local bars.

In Oman, it was the aflaj, the ancient waterways, that I was so fascinated by I took road trip detours to find them.

In Italy, truffles held my focus – buying truffles at local artisanal food fairs, attending truffle festivals all over the country in different seasons, cooking with truffles – I just couldn’t get enough.

My foodie obsession to eat in Copenhagen? Smørrebrød.

Although I had never heard of smørrebrød before I started planning my Copenhagen visit, it didn’t take much reading to become intrigued even before I went. These open-faced sandwiches sounded to me a lot like the Danish version of Spanish tapas or Venetian cicchetti, and I always jump at the chance to have small bites on the road when I can, because it means sampling more dishes of the local cuisine.

The more I ate smørrebrød and their balance of flavors and textures, the more I wanted to seek out just one more version, sampling yet another new combination to eat in Copenhagen. And the more I wanted to know about the culture surrounding them.

What is Smørrebrød

Not only was smørrebrød listed as the top local food to try, there is an art and science to how each slice is constructed. It’s definitely not your basic open-faced sandwich. It literally means buttered bread, and then anything else can be piled high for that perfect bite.

Smørrebrød starts with a slice of dark, rye bread, often with seeds or nuts inside, although certain toppings merit a different type of hearty bread. Then there is butter or lard of some kind spread across the bread from end to end. I enjoyed the extra richness and thought it was to add flavor – which it is in part – but of course those clever Danes also know the layer of fat keeps the bread from getting soggy as you pile on the other ingredients.

From there, the only limit to what goes on a smørrebrød is the imagination of the chef, although there is a focus on local ingredients as well as creating a balance of both flavors and textures. And of course the final products should be visually appealing as well.

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Apr 30, 2018 at 8:02am PDT

The smørrebrød I saw most frequently were either seafood or meat based. Copenhagen has been known for its herring for centuries, especially in pickled form, and you’ll see plenty of herring smørrebrød options. There are also tiny shrimp and other types of fresh and smoked fish that are almost always offered. In terms of meat, there were a lot of variations of roast beef with some type of horseradish and also various pates. And if you still have space after both seafood and meat smørrebrød, usually the final traditional smørrebrød you’ll eat in Copenhagen is topped with cheese.

A slice of smørrebrød really is constructed, with the different ingredients built on top of one another into a work of art that also happens to be delicious. Proteins typically get layered first, then are topped by a series of garnishes. These toppings are chosen to add color, crunch, or perhaps moisture via a jam or remoulade.

Although originally a lunch on the go for factory workers in the late 1800s, today’s smørrebrød can be a snack, a hearty lunch, or part of a spread while hosting a party.

Just don’t forget to eat these piled-high creations like the Danes do – with a fork and knife.

Why Smørrebrød Intrigued Me

Maybe I’ve just been impacted by the Italian way of life after my 3 years living there, but there is something I find appealing about particular acceptable combinations of local flavors developed over the centuries.

And smørrebrød definitely fits the bill.

Yes, it’s food. In some cases, it’s a way to repurpose leftovers. And to highlight local specialties.

But it’s really the Danish sensibility that gets me. The balance of flavors – sweet and salty and sour and bitter – just like you’d find in Asian cuisine. The textural contrasts between often soft pieces of fish or meat, topped by crunchier elements like fried onions or crispy bacon. And the culture of design in Denmark that leads to expertly layered smørrebrød where the final product has a great balance of the size and colors of the different components.

Luckily my servers at smørrebrød spots around Copenhagen were friendly and helpful, guiding me through lengthy menus and helping me to fully appreciate these beautiful bites.

What to Drink with Smørrebrød

Of course, the smørrebrød experience is not only about savoring the food, there are traditional beverage pairing as well. Or really, two main ones.

Beer is the go-to drink to accompany smørrebrød for many locals. There will likely be multiple beers on tap at any smørrebrød restaurant. Servers were great at pointing me toward traditional options, and there are several breweries in the city of Copenhagen, so I tried to sample as many different local brews as I could.

The other far more potent beverage pairing for smørrebrød is aquavit, a local type of schnapps that is infused with different herbs and flavors. So of course this means that only certain types of aquavit go with certain types of smørrebrød, but rest assured there will be an ideal chilly sip of aquavit to pair with any food you’ve ordered. The few times I enjoyed aquavit, I usually only had it with my final smørrebrød, and left it up to the server to decide which flavor would be best.

But like with other local, traditional food and beverage pairings I’ve enjoyed in my travels, it all just goes so well together.

Best Places to Enjoy Smørrebrød in Copenhagen

There are plenty of spots around Copenhagen to enjoy smørrebrød, but not every spot you see is worth eating at. For some delicious plates of smørrebrød in Copenhagen, check out the following places:

Cafe Gammel Torv

Serving up smørrebrød since 1910, this spot is a classic location that has maintained a lot of the same décor from when it first opened. Fish is its specialty, with a lot of different herring options available, and plenty of other smørrebrød options as well as their extensive beer and aquavit selection. If you’re having trouble deciding which smørrebrød to order, there is also a lunch tasting menu available.

TIP! This spot is not open on Sundays, except for the first Sunday of the month.

Hallerne Smørrebrød

There are a few market locations around town, and I visited the one in Torvehallerne. The Torvehallerne market is a stop on a lot of food tours, so there was a mix of locals and tourists in the queue. This was actually my first moment spotting smørrebrød the morning after I arrived and they all looked so beautiful I couldn’t resist purchasing (and immediately sampling!) a delicious few.

Restaurant Kronborg

Thanks to the friendly service and convivial atmosphere (and delicious bites, of course), this was my favorite smørrebrød restaurant of my time in Copenhagen. Their cozy atmosphere makes the food experience even more pleasant, and the waiter offered excellent advice on both food and aquavit pairings. This was also one of the few places, where I got to assemble my own smørrebrød – the fried camembert with jam and fried parsley on rye.

TIP! Restaurant Kronborg has the additional benefit of being open 7 days a week.

Even, the Aamann’s stand I spotted at the airport had some great looking bites, and I couldn’t resist one more smørrebrød that I ate on the plane ride home. (They also have several locations around the city of Copenhagen.)

I didn’t realize this when I booked my trip, but I ended up visiting during a public holiday weekend, so every restaurant I wanted to sample was not open, especially on the holiday Monday. Several smørrebrød spots operate only during the week and there are others that are closed on Sunday and public holidays.

The other main two spots that came up in my research and are ones that I’d like to check out on my next visit:

Rita’s Smørrebrød. A more local spot that is a bit away from most tourist attractions in a residential area, this spot is only open Monday through Friday.

Restaurant Schoennemann. Possibly the most historical (and fancy) of all the smørrebrød options, there is a wealth of options at this spot, categorized by the protein used. In addition to the mainstays, you’ll also find venison, duck, and veal as smørrebrød on their menu. Open since 1877, it’s had plenty of time to build up its reputation, so online bookings are recommended. It is closed on Sundays and public holidays.

You can see how I couldn’t get enough smørrebrød during my long weekend in Copenhagen, and I’m not alone in my fascination. Lonely Planet recently named eating smørrebrød in Copenhagen as one of the top 10 food experiences in the world.

So what are you waiting for, head to Copenhagen and try them for yourself!

Have you ever tried smørrebrød? What else do you seek out in your travels? Have you experienced a singular obsession in a specific destination like I have? Tell me in the ‘Comments’ to inspire what obsession I should seek out next in my travels!

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How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium: Things to See, Do, and Eat!

August 30, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 0 Comment

One day in Ghent may just leave you wanting more. It is a perfect spot for a day trip though, combining a variety of things to do in close proximity, beautiful viewpoints, and easy access to and from nearby Belgian cities, including Brussels, Bruges, and Antwerp.

But even if you only have one day in Ghent, it is worth visiting not only because it is easy to get to – which it is! – but there are some pretty incredible things to see while you’re there.

The city boasts a series of major churches all in a row, which is something rarely seen in any city anywhere. They all are beautiful to explore and have wonderful views of one another, plus there’s also a great spot on a nearby bridge overlooking them all.

Speaking of bridges, Ghent is one of many Belgian cities built on water, and you’ll get beautiful water views on the rivers and canals that wind through town.

Oh yeah, and did I mention there’s a castle?

Luckily all of these sights are quite close to one another, so one day in Ghent is all you’ll need to leisurely stroll between them and enjoy the city.

Below, check out the details on everything you need to know to visit, including my best tips for when you go!

Things to Do during One Day in Ghent

Churches & Nearby Viewpoints

Sint-Baafs (St Bavo) Cathedral

Ghent has several churches but there is only one Cathedral, and beyond its 1,000+ year history and majestic beauty, this one boasts one of the most famous pieces of art in the world, the Ghent Altarpiece. This is the spot around to your left when you enter with its own ticket stand, where you can go and admire the details and images depicted on the different panels. The whole church is lovely though, and the Cathedral has the first of three medieval towers all lined up along this street.

TIP! The Ghent Altarpiece has its own visiting hours, so be sure to check before you go.

TIP! From noon until 1pm the panels of the Altarpiece are closed so you can see the reverse side. If you can, come around either the start or end of the hour so you get the opportunity to see both sides.

TIP! I had a little trouble finding the entrance, but don’t be shy about asking – one of the helpful volunteers pointed me toward the underground area with the oldest sections of the church.

Belfry Tower

The tallest belfry in Belgium and one of a group of belfries with the UNESCO World Heritage designation in the region (it has been around since the 1300s after all), this is the second of the medieval towers all in a row. And it’s made to be climbed! Take your time reaching the top and enjoy the views of the surrounding churches and city.

TIP! Be mindful of when the bell is rung so you do not end up right next to the deafening sound.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BiCOQ1Snc8D/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

St Nicholas Church

Honestly, I found St Nicholas Church to be more impressive from the outside than the inside, but it is worth taking a few minutes to stroll inside and spy the natural light streaming in through the unusually placed tower, which is the final medieval tower of three.

St Michael’s Bridge

Depending on which way you visit the churches and Belfry, this Bridge will either be first or last. Regardless of when you reach it, pause for a bit to take in the sweeping view of it all, with the three towers all lined up.

St Michael’s Church

I was honestly a bit churched-out after visiting the other spots, and only got a chance to appreciate it from the outside. The church is adjacent to the bridge and is also notable for the city, with a lot of famous artwork inside.

More Things to See and Do Around Town

Canals and Waterways

Water views always get me, and there are plenty as you stroll along the canals and waterways of Ghent. If the weather is nice, the stroll from the train station is about a half hour and mostly goes along the water, with public sculptures and plenty of views along the way.

TIP! There are see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below).

Citadelpark

After a day of sightseeing, there’s nothing like taking some time to sit and enjoy nature, and this park is quite a large green space, with plenty of spots to stroll or sit and read. I enjoyed spending some time here before I had to catch my train back to Antwerp, where I was staying.

Design Museum Gent

Don’t worry, this spot is still in town, Gent is just one of the alternate spellings you’ll see for the city. The Design Museum would have been a great spot to check out, but unfortunately I visited on a Wednesday, when they’re closed. If you get the CityCard Gent (see ‘(More) Practical Tips for Visiting’ section below), it’s already included, so would be worth popping in even if it’s just for a short while.

Ghent Marriott Hotel

Not only are you likely to pass this spot anyway, if you look closely you’ll see the double swan symbol on its facade, betraying this hotel’s past as a 16^th century brothel. Pretty random, I thought. Want to get to know it more intimately? Check out the ‘Where to Stay’ section below!

https://www.instagram.com/p/BmyS2fWHFfq/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Graffiti Street

Just like it sounds, this “street” is actually an alleyway where the authorities turn a blind eye to the ever-changing graffiti that covers the walls and objects in every direction. It’s a fun place to stroll even though it is a pretty small.

TIP! If you’re looking for more street art around Ghent, there is a comprehensive map HERE.

https://www.instagram.com/p/Bm0xaPTnVLB/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Gravensteen Castle

There’s just something that always gets me when there is a castle right in the middle of a city. This one took me about an hour to stroll through the numbered stops tracing the castles history. Plus, there are great city views in all directions from its rooftop.

‘t Galgenhuisje

This is a bar and also listed in the section below, however even if you’re not planning on sticking around and ordering a drink, it is worth strolling past just to see this spot. The terrace has a fair bit of seating, but the close quarters inside, including an extra-tiny upper level, make it Ghent’s smallest bar.

Where to Eat and Drink – Best Bites & Sips

Take Five Espresso

I arrived in Ghent first thing in the morning to maximize my day trip to the city, so I definitely was ready for some coffee when my train arrived. This spot is just a little ways away from the main sights, but worth seeking out because they offer some delicious coffees and pastries to jump start or day or as a snack along the way.

Bodo Restaurant

Even though the website is entirely in Dutch, English menus were available when I had a delicious meal with a view of nearby Gravesteen Castle (see above). You can even see the castle from the restroom there! The food is on the more expensive side, which makes sense given the location, but there are specials offered at a discount at lunch and everything was absolutely delicious.

It actually wasn’t my top choice although it turned out to be a great meal, but many other restaurants in that area only opened for dinner, or were specifically closed for lunch on Wednesdays. Other nearby options for local cuisine include De Gekroonde Hoofden and M é m é Gusta.

‘t Galgenhuisje

Belgium is known for it’s beer, and there’s no better spot to sit and enjoy one than indoors at what is by far the smallest bar in Ghent. There were several seats available when I went mid-afternoon on a weekday, but I imagine it gets more packed at peak times. And c’mon, this is Belgium, of course the beer was delicious.

(More) Practical Tips for Visiting

If you visit Ghent as a Day Trip, definitely do some advance planning so you can make the most of your time. Take a train on the earlier side if you can, to maximize your day, including how many hours you’ll be in town when the main attractions are open.

TIP! There is a great CityCard Gent that will get you in pretty much everywhere you’d like to go, and includes free public transportation around town.

TIP! Assuming you’re arriving by train – as most tourists do – consider buying the pass and having free public transit vs. the additional time walking from the train station to the city center (and back) or the cost of paying for transit separately.

TIP! The CityCard also includes access to hop on – hop off water tram if you visit on a weekend.

TIP! On Wednesday (which was the day I visited) several attractions were closed and some restaurants that normally serve lunch were closed for Wednesday lunch, so keep that in mind if you have the flexibility of which day to go.

TIP! Even aside from Wednesday closures, there are a lot more restaurant options for dinner, especially for those serving local cuisine. So even if you’re visiting Ghent on a day trip, consider staying through dinner to enjoy another meal, just be sure to check your return train options in advance.

TIP! Watch out for bicycles!

Although I went to Ghent as a day trip, it is such a beautiful town and would be even more relaxing spread across several days.

Where to Stay

Ghent is great as a day trip from several other Belgian cities, but it would also make for a great weekend trip – and I have several friends who have enjoyed doing exactly that!

If you do stay over, here are some great accommodation options:

This spot is a bit of a splurge, with rooms located in the old post office and adorned with antique furniture in elegant surroundings.

AirBNB

Nearly all AirBNB properties will have a kitchen available so you can feel more at home and try your hand at cooking local ingredients or stick to a tight budget by not eating out. And it can often be one of the cheapest accommodation options in a city.

If you’ve never booked at an AirBNB before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

Centrally located by the majority of the tourist attractions, it is a short walk from this 18^th century townhouse to the sights you’ll want to see during your stay.

Right on the water in the cobblestone older section of Ghent, this is also your opportunity to stay at a former brothel from centuries before (see ‘More Things to See and Do Around Town’ section above).

TIP! You may be able to earn or use Marriott points if you are a frequent traveler with them or even through some airline frequent flier programs.

Ghent has been one of my favorite Belgian cities to visit. It is less crowded than some of the other large cities, making it far more pleasant to stroll around town, especially during the day when you’ll see visitors from cruise ships or on airplane layovers at their peak in other cities. And it is large enough to have notable artwork and historical sights to keep every type of traveler entertained on a visit.

And if you live in Europe and Ghent is local for you, definitely stay for a full weekend of exploring!

What do you look for in a great day trip destination? Any sights in Ghent that I missed? What other day trips from Brussels or Antwerp or Bruges would you recommend? Let me know in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Travel Stories: Kayaking in Ha Long Bay, Vietnam

August 15, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 6 comments

The sun is starting to set over Ha Long Bay, one of the most picturesque spots of coastal Vietnam, with floating houses and local boat traffic intermingled with dramatic rock formations jutting out of the bay.

I’ve lifted my oar out of the water, and have paused for a moment, listening to the rhythm of the water lapping next to the kayak.

It should be one of the most peaceful moments of the trip, enjoying golden hour out on the bay. But instead, a deep panic is tightening its grip.

How It All Began

“Just perfect,” I had thought, as I made the booking in person the evening before. I like to rock climb when I travel, even though I don’t always travel with people who do. Luckily I was able to convince my travel buddy in Vietnam to come along for the full day of adventure – a morning of rock climbing followed by an afternoon kayaking around Ha Long Bay. For me, the perfect vacation itinerary.

The day started off typically enough. We boarded a boat with our guides and a large group, then split off based on which outdoor adventure came first. There were several activities available, and everyone basically mixed and matched different half-day components to enjoy.

The morning was picture-perfect as a group of us were dropped on a white sand beach overlooking the turquoise water, with rock formations towering overhead.

The surroundings were absolutely breathtaking, and the hours flew by meeting fellow travelers and scaling the limestone. Even now, that morning in Ha Long Bay was some of the best outdoor climbing I’ve ever done in my travels.

At mid-day the various groups returned to the boat for a communal lunch and some swimming in between the two halves of the day.

Setting Off Kayaking in Ha Long Bay

The afternoon of kayaking in Ha Long Bay involved a different mix of people than the first half of the day, and there were 7 kayaks full of people that set off.

Of course, what was a minor footnote at the time became critically important later in the afternoon. The rock climbing guide from the morning was not feeling well, and couldn’t go out with the afternoon climbing group. So the tour operator did the logical thing and had the ill staff member stay on the boat, and the original kayaking guide went with the climbing group instead.

Which meant that our kayaking group would be without a guide.

But it was simple enough: “Just keep turning to the left as you kayak, and you’ll get back to the boat.”

This made sense to all of us, so we grabbed kayaks and oars and set off into the sunshine.

The first few hours of kayaking in Ha Long Bay were glorious. It involved leisurely jutting back and forth ahead of one another as we took turns stopping off at random beaches on the many islands dotting Ha Long Bay, weaving in and out of the rock formations along the way.

Honestly, there was no clear left with how irregular it all was, but we were all making what was generally a counter-clockwise loop around the area.

And Then…

We were supposed to be back at the boat by 5pm to reconvene with the other afternoon groups and head back into town. So around 4:30pm, when there was no end or break in the rock formation in sight, what earlier had been a fairly spread out swath of kayaks started to cluster closer together to figure out where we were and how much farther there was left to go to find our way back.

At 4:45pm, with no left turn still available, we all started to simple paddle harder, assuming that we had been a little too leisurely earlier. And that if we just went a bit faster, we would shortly find the boat.

By 5pm, and the island’s edge extending far into the distance, I think we all realized that we were lost. And in trouble.

We didn’t know where we were.
We didn’t know where the boat was.
We didn’t see anyone else in sight besides our group of kayaks.
We didn’t know exactly how we arrived to the spot we were currently.
We didn’t know if it was closer to try and retrace our path or keep going forward.
We didn’t know if the boat was looking for us. Or waiting for us, even.

The only thing we did know, was that we had to stick together, and that we’d make the situation even more dangerous by splitting up as night was about to fall.

We also realized at some point around this time that we were only 6 of the 7 kayaks that had gone out, and were just hoping the other kayak had somehow made its way back to the boat, and wasn’t even more lost than we were – and alone!

The consensus was to continue on and hope that we came across the boat, or even someone (anyone!) who might be able to help

With each stroke of the paddle, the situation seemed more and more hopeless.

We didn’t know where we were. No one had a phone. And no one had much of a plan other than to keep moving.

At the beginning of what felt like a possibly dangerous situation, I was trying to stay calm and keep a clear head. With each passing minute though, the calm was being replaced by progressively more and more dire panic.

All of the worst case scenarios started to surface . . . We could be lost for days . . . How would anyone find us? . . . What if the weather turned bad?

We had minimal fresh water left and no food.

And my arms were feeling exhausted.

The several hours of morning rock climbing and the escalating pace of our paddling was weighing my arms down with each stroke. Somehow the adrenaline of the situation was carrying me forward, but it was starting to feel like my arms could not continue at this pace for all that much longer.

After what felt like an eternity of Herculean paddling effort – and was probably more likely a half hour or so – finally the horizon changed when a large freighter boat faintly came into sight in the fading light of the day.

Hope

Frantically we all started paddling toward the boat while also trying to dramatically wave our arms and oars to get the attention of someone on board. Luckily it was a pretty large vessel that was moving relatively slowly, so our paddling efforts allowed us to approach closer even as the boat continued to move, and finally get someone on the ship to notice us.

Of course, being well out of the touristy part of Ha Long Bay at this point, no one on board spoke any English (and no one in our group spoke Vietnamese).

The only thing that made what came next possible was that someone on another kayak had a waterproof digital camera, and I’ve never been so grateful for a piece of technology in my life.

He had taken a picture with the side of the boat in it earlier in the day. Which just so happened to also have the ship’s markings – with the name and phone number of the tour company emblazoned in bright yellow paint on the dark brown background. And thank goodness he had the clarity to think of this and pull it up!

Despite no common words or language, the boat crew fortunately could figure out that we were looking for the boat in the photo and to call them. And that calling the phone number might lead to someone who spoke Vietnamese and could help sort out what all of us were doing this far out on the water, with night falling rapidly.

The next few minutes were a blur, with my usual focus clouded by the all-encompassing anticipation of maybe, just maybe, being able to get back to our boat.

There were enough hand motions happening to indicate that this boat found our other boat by phone, and even that alone was a source of great relief. Even more amazing in that moment we somehow were able to figure out that our tour boat was still waiting on us.

And by a great stroke of luck, the giant freighter boat (that hadn’t even been headed that way!) was willing to take us back to our boat. Which otherwise would have been a very long paddle – probably lasting the approximately 4 hours it had taken us to reach this spot.

Savoring One of My Luckiest Travel Moments Ever

The freighter being so high off the water, there was no real way for us to board, but they tossed us a rope. With the panic subsiding, clear thought seemed to take over as we all methodically tied our kayaks to one another, and then to the sturdy-looking rope they had tossed to us off the back of the boat.

Secure and never more relieved, we flashed each other giant smiles as the freighter started to move.

All of the kayaks were bunched together, so as the boat picked up speed, we actually started to bang horizontally into one another. Which was entirely unexpected.

On another day, we might have considered this to be just another part of the adventure. But in this moment, still emotionally charged, the collisions presented what felt like a lethal danger. The last thing we needed was for one of the kayaks to get damaged or ropes to snap off, given the afternoon we’d had.

So we each pushed the end of our oars horizontally into the side of the adjacent kayak to create a consistent bit of space as we bounced in all directions in the wake of the boat rushing forward. Hitting the water, but no longer hitting each other.

Once we got our configuration stabilized, it all started to sink in. How close we had been to being lost and stranded. In the dark. Without anything to eat or drink. And along with those emotions, also reveling in the sheer joy that comes with relief of that magnitude after a crisis. Especially with the beautiful surroundings of Ha Long Bay at sunset rushing by.

One of the most serious terrors I’ve experienced first-hand transformed into being overtaken by a sense of deep, meditative calm. Which then morphed into joy and exhilaration as my adrenaline response faded and I could be again fully present in the moment. Feeling the breeze of being dragged along, the fun of bouncing on the water, and the absolute humility and gratitude at the mysterious ways of the universe that led to our improbable rescue.

Although this wasn’t my most recent time getting rescued by a boat after being stranded, this was definitely one of the most dangerous and terrifying situations I’ve encountered in all of my travels – even though it all worked out in the end. (Including that 7th kayak not with us, who had never gotten lost, and made it back to the boat on time.)

Had things gone even just a bit differently, I am not exaggerating when I say that I might not be here to share this story.

Thinking Back On It Now

Even with all the chaos and panic, there was so very much I was grateful for that day:

We were 6 kayaks lost together.
Someone had a waterproof camera and had taken a picture of the side of the boat with the phone number.
That the camera still had battery charge to pull up the photo.
That we even found another boat to flag down.
That the freighter stopped for us.
And was willing to try and figure out what was going on.
And call.
Then was willing to go off course and tow us along.
That the original boat waited for us, even before they had heard from us about where we were.
That we were able to make it safely back into port.
Especially since unbeknownst to us at the time, tourist boats on day trips are not allowed to return to the bay after sunset.

Which led to us – and everyone else out on a tour that day – ducking down as we re-entered the bay after sunset. I would have happily done whatever crazy thing was being requested to ensure our safe return to dry land, and fortunately we made it back without being stopped by the Ha Long Bay harbor patrol.

I could have bent down to kiss the ground, I was so elated to finally step off the boat after such a long ordeal out on the water.

I couldn’t tell you any of their names, but I made some friends for life in that shared life-threatening afternoon.

There is this indescribable bonding that comes with shared calamity – especially while traveling. After a much-needed shower to restore a sense of normalcy and wash away the drama of the day, we came back together to relive it all, sharing a meal together at a local spot in town.

And of course back on land and with a WiFi connection at the guesthouse, we were finally able to pull up a map of where we had been.

It turns out that there was an inlet about 15-20 minutes into kayaking that was meant to be the left turn that would lead back to the boat. Once we missed that turn, it probably would have taken days of kayaking in Ha Long Bay to propel ourselves around the giant island that kept going and going and going.

It was so lucky that we encountered that other boat. By the time the freighter picked us up, we were only a small fraction of the way around the giant mass. Although of course we had no way of knowing that at the time.

I’m not sure if it was there when I took this trip back in 2012, but now the FAQ on the tour outfitter website warns that “Even with a compass, it can be extremely difficult to navigate among islands. For this reason, all of our kayak trips are guided.”

Lessons Learned

So, would I do it all again? Is there anything that I would do differently next time?

Honestly, I would still go kayaking in Ha Long Bay. But even if it was with a guide (like this trip was meant to be!) I would definitely be more prepared. Because really, anything can happen.

TIP! If you’re doing any water activities (or even just think you might), get a waterproof bag you can take with you. this clear one that comes in many color options but is clear enough to see the contents.

TIP! Have a phone with a local SIM card with credit or an international plan to be able to call for help if you need to.

TIP! Always have the phone number of any tour company you use in your travels.

TIP! Use a map program to save any group meeting point to your cell phone.

TIP! Always have a backup battery for technology. For cell phones, I use and like READ MORE: 16 Travel Essentials for Every Kind of Trip

TIP! Check in at the halfway point before you need to make your way back to your tour group, to be sure there is enough time to return.

TIP! Trust your instincts! If a situation starts to feel dangerous, treat it that way and act accordingly. I talk about trusting that intuition in my post on Solo Travel, but really, it’s an important tip to keep in mind whenever you are on the road, alone or not.

Nothing is foolproof when you travel – and the unexpected can always happen – but a bit of preparedness will go a long way in keeping you safe.

Have you ever been lost in your travels? How did it turn out? Any things you would do differently the next time around? Any other tips I missed?

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How to Spend a Foodie Weekend in Philadelphia, Pennsylvania

August 7, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Philadelphia is steeped in history and there are so many historical sights (Liberty Bell, anyone?) to enjoy when you go. If you’re only there for a weekend, it may be hard to fit everything into your schedule that you’d like to do.

For someone like me who’s been to Philadelphia countless times though – from a road trip with my grandparents when I was little to visiting my sister and cousins who went to university there – the typical tourist trail was not the enticement. Honestly, I had coined my recent trip as a “foodie weekend in Philadelphia” because the principal inspiration for the visit was to check out the local restaurant scene.

Even for someone who likes food as much as I do, eating *all* day long is pretty impossible, so my friend and I had a short list of places to explore in between meals. Between my frequent visits and her having lived there for 6 years, this was really some of the last few things neither of us had done before.

https://www.instagram.com/p/BjAeeE3Hkt8/?hl=en&taken-by=travelsavvygal

Although you may be so inspired you check these spots out on your first visit! It depends on what interests you.

And yeah, we ate really well. The “Foodie Weekend in Philadelphia” was a success!

Check out all the spots we visited below:

Things to See and Do

Barnes Foundation

I honestly had never heard of this spot before planning this trip, but it is one of the most unique art museums I’ve ever visited, along with Boston’s Isabella Stewart Gardner Museum, which I also loved. The Barnes Foundation art is displayed just as it was when its patron was alive, in room after room with whimsical designs and interspersed with antique utilitarian objects with artistic beauty.

And the collection is filled with more Renaissance masterpieces than you may have ever seen in one location before. The museum used to be in Philadelphia’s suburbs, a subject of controversy when it was moved, but is now easily accessible on the city’s museum row.

TIP! This is a pricey visit, but not only did I think it was completely worth it, you can also get discounts by becoming a Barnes Foundation member or bundling admission with other Philadelphia attractions with either the Philadelphia Pass or the Philadelphia City Pass.

Elfreth’s Alley

Did you know that Philadelphia is home to the oldest, continuously inhabited residential street in America? Despite its historical roots, and my many previous visits to Philly, I actually learned about this spot from Instagram! I probably would have made it here sooner if Instagram had existed during my previous visits to the city, but was so glad to explore this block of houses this time around.

TIP! Various events happen throughout the year and guided tours are available Friday to Sunday and on Thursdays during summer. Options are listed HERE.

Italian Market

An outdoor market covering many blocks, the stands are also interspersed with brick-and-mortar shops selling Italian goodies. Stop by the Italian Market Visitor Center for a map and some helpful guidance as to which spots to check out and come hungry so you can eat your way through. And pick up some goodies to take home with you.

TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Philadelphia Magic Gardens (see below).

TIP! It was accidental that I stumbled upon the annual Italian Market Festival the one weekend I happened to be in town, but it was filled with vendors and music and all sorts of entertainment, including the absolutely insane Grease Pole Climbing competition:

Magic Gardens

Philadelphia’s Magic Gardens has only been open to the public since 2008, so this was actually my first visit to the city since it opened. Artist Isaiah Zagar had been beautifying this section of the South Street neighborhood since the 1960s, turning an eclectic combination of objects like tiles and glass bottles into a giant outdoor art installation with winding passageways and stairs linking different sections.

It is quite the experience to stroll through it all, this is definitely one of those places you need to see for yourself!

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on May 22, 2018 at 5:15am PDT

TIP! There are timed tickets that are sold beginning a month ahead of time. I visited on a Sunday in May and was only able to get tickets for about an hour after I waited in line, so if you are on a tight schedule or it is peak tourist season, I’d recommend buying tickets in advance.

TIP! This was an easy stroll from the Italian Market (see above).

Mural Mile

There are beautiful murals all over Philadelphia as part of this revitalization project. If you go to the website linked above, you can download an easy-to-navigate map showing the location of the different artworks. I did not follow the trail, but if you are strolling the city and keeping your eyes open, you’re likely to spot quite a few of these to appreciate as I did.

Where to Eat and Drink

Coffee

Elixr Coffee Roasters

This coffee spot is very fancy about its beans and blends, and although its only been around since 2010, has racked up national accolades for its coffee roasting, barista skills, and cold brew coffee. The blend I sampled was good although not my favorite, but it was a solid sip to go with the definite hipster vibe at the Elixr Center City location, one of three outposts in the city.

La Colombe

This is a Philadelphia chain that is popping up in several American cities, but with good reason – the coffee here is delicious! There are 5 locations across Philadelphia (I visited the one in Dilworth Plaza) and it served my favorite coffee of my visit. There are great espresso-based coffee drinks that are not too acidic, so just the way I like it.

Breakfast/Brunch/Lunch

Dim Sum & Noodle

Chinese food is a must on any foodie weekend in Philadelphia, and this is one of the few highly-rated spots outside of Chinatown, and very close to the Barnes Foundation (see above), which is how I ended up here. Although the space is basic and it’s located on a strip mall stretch, there were some very delicious bites.

For dim sum, there are plenty of options, and if you’re indecisive like I can be, they also offer a dim sum sampler. And you know they’re serious about their food when the waitress patiently explains which dipping sauce goes with which dim sum item, which appealed to the sensibility I developed living in Italy – that there is one best way that food is intended to be consumed for maximum enjoyment.

TIP! All that said, I’ve enjoyed even better dim sum in Philly’s Chinatown, and would only seek out this spot if you’ll be in the area anyway.

Federal Donuts

This spot has fun flavor combinations iced like your typical donut, but what the staff recommended to me was the freshly fried original style dipped into a choice of 3 toppings: cookies and cream, cinnamon brown sugar, and strawberry lavender. It was so good to have the piping hot, yeasty, freshly fried donut that I would probably order this one again on any return visit. I’ve also heard great things about their wings, but I visited earlier in the morning and they weren’t serving them yet.

TIP! Go at or after 11am to sample their fried chicken wings with your donuts.

Green Eggs Caf é

Benedicts here range from more traditional versions with crab cakes or smoked salmon to a short rib benedict, root vegetable benedict, and chicken-and-waffles benedict option. Even more elaborate are the flavored french toasts like pecan pie, salted caramel banana, or the ever-tempting cookie dough stuffed french toast. This wasn’t blow-my-mind amazing, but the food is very good, and it is worth going for the variety and unusual combinations you’ve probably never seen on another brunch menu anywhere else!

TIP! Expect a wait, although the earlier you go after they open, the faster you’ll get seated.

Dinner

Vernick Food and Drink

The food here is both beautiful and delicious and is such a great value for the haute cuisine quality of the dishes coming out of the kitchen, and was a memorable first meal of our foodie weekend in Philadelphia. The signature Amish chicken (or half-chicken) is fantastic, and was a highlight of the evening – and this is from someone who doesn’t usually order chicken out at a restaurant!

Besides the one big dish, my friend and I just divided some small plates, which were really exceptional bites and beautifully plated. The cocktails were well-balanced and delicious, and there was a very good selection of wines by the glass. I thought it would be an older, stuffier crowd, but it turned out to be a mix that included a lot of young professionals and very friendly, approachable, and helpful wait staff to guide us along the way. They definitely earned their many accolades, including a 2017 James Beard award for the chef.

How to Reserve

Option 1: By phone, 90 days in advance

Option 2: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time

Option 3: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant at any point

→ I made plans less than 60 days in advance, so after not finding good options online, I called and was able to get a Friday night reservation at 7:30pm around 45 days ahead of time.

Zahav

One of the first high-end dining destinations featuring Israeli cuisine, this restaurant was THE REASON for my Philadelphia foodie weekend. Zahav has made it to Eater’s list of the “38 Essential Restaurants in America” for all four years the list has been compiled, which is probably a footnote compared to some of its other accolades. Dishes are available a la carte or with the Taste of Zahav offering small plates, salads, and a large fish or meat or vegetable dish from the coals for $48 per person.

But at just a little more pricewise, what you really want to do while you’re here is enjoy the $56 Chef’s tasting with the Chef Solomonov’s signature pomegranate-glazed lamb shoulder, one of my best bites of recent memory. Even the rice has detailed touches, and it was all so perfect together. You definitely want to eat here on a foodie weekend in Philadelphia – or any trip to the city, really!

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Jun 6, 2018 at 10:18am PDT

TIP! I recommend snagging a reservation on the earlier side if you can, otherwise trying your luck in person on the day, as the most popular dishes (the lamb shoulder!) will sell out nightly around 7:15pm – or even earlier – since so many people order it.

TIP! I’ve done plenty of wine tasting in Israel, and while Zahav’s wine list boasts excellent Israeli options, I found the Israeli wines to be a bit over-priced and the lesser-known Lebanese Bekaa Valley selections to be much better value for a delicious bottle.

How to Reserve

Option 1: On the OpenTable website, 60 days in advance, opens at midnight US Eastern time

Option 2: If you can’t find options you like online, call the restaurant to likely be added to a wait list

Option 3: Be a walk-in on the evening you’d like to dine.

→ You can put your name down on the walk-in list around 4:30pm, even though the restaurant does not open until 5pm. One option is to stick around and eat right when they open at 5. The other option (which I took advantage of) is to put your name down, go do other things around town, and come back when most of the seats turn over between 7:00-7:30pm. Since it’s just a running wait list all night, be sure to let the host or hostess know your plans and give them another heads up when you return. My friend and I arrived back a few minutes after 7pm and got seats overlooking the open kitchen within 5 minutes.

TIP! Between 4:40 and 7:00pm, I stopped by Elfreth’s Alley (see above) and then Sassasfras Bar (see below). Another nearby option to enjoy yourself while you wait for a later dinner time is the even closer, historical City Tavern that still brews old time beer recipes from the time of Founding Fathers, so if you’re more of a beer fan (or just curious like I will be when I return to Zahav to eat again!) it’s another convenient option.

Dessert

Capogiro Gelato

I visited in summertime, and Capogiro was definitely recommended to me most often in terms of ice cream or gelato places around Philadelphia. Although it was not quite as good as my Favorite Gelato Places in Italy, Capogiro serves a delicious gelato made in the traditional Italian style and was some of the best I’ve had outside of Europe.

TIP! Some flavors were better than others (the pistachio was great!) so I recommend trying a few before deciding what flavor combination to order.

Drinks

The Franklin Bar

The Franklin Mortgage and Investment Company was a front for America’s largest alcohol bootlegging operation during Prohibition, and the space operates these days as a speakeasy. Travel + Leisure even mentions it in their article about Philadelphia being a foodie destination. There’s now an “Upstairs Bar” that is tiki-themed, which is where most people head, although the cocktails there were a bit hit or miss.

The real fun is at the speakeasy downstairs, with pretty interesting drink combinations and the dark, windowless vibe you’d expect from a speakeasy.

TIP! There is one bouncer for both levels, who will point you to the Tiki Bar unless you know to specifically ask about the speakeasy.

TIP! The wait doesn’t tend to be terribly long, and the bouncer can give you a pretty accurate idea of how long to expect.

Sassafras Bar

Close to Zahav (see ‘Dinner’ section above), this was a good place to spend time before dinner, and is a bar worth seeking out in its own right. There are innovative cocktails that change seasonally and the bartenders are very accommodating if you want to order a drink off-menu. It’s a pretty laid back vibe for a bar with great cocktails, with sports showing on the many TVs during my visit.

Where to Stay

AirBNB

You may find that an AirBNB is not as great a deal as you’ll find in other cities, especially if you want to stay near the center of Philadelphia. There are limited spots available, and your options will be priced accordingly. Look early for the best prices, and this can be a way to get more of a local perspective on the city.

If you’ve never tried AirBNB before, click THIS LINK to get a $40 credit after your first AirBNB stay!

Booking.com

This is my go-to website for finding great deals, and there is often a generous cancellation policy with bookings. You can sort options by ratings or price and get a sense of what is available on your dates. Search Booking.com Now

Have you ever planned a trip for the food? What are your favorite foodie cities? Any other destinations I should check out on my next foodie weekend in Philadelphia?

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Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy
Where to Find the Best Gelato in Italy

July 12, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

The only way to know good gelato is by trying lots of it and getting your taste buds accustomed to the nuances of this frozen delight – and don’t worry, I did a lot of “research” about where to locate the best gelato in Italy during the three years I lived there. And of course, on my recent return visit.

Let’s just say that I’ve had A LOT of gelato.

And as you enjoy as much gelato as I have, it becomes easier and easier with time to pick out the best spots.

READ MORE: 10 Ways to Experience Italy Like a Local

I’ve organized my recommendations by city, presented alphabetically, but you’ll notice that I didn’t include every town I’ve visited or even every gelateria I’ve liked. Only the gelato spots that I found served a really superlative product made this round-up.

The best gelato in Italy can be found in tourist centers as often as off-the-beaten-path spots, but there is a taste that gives you pause and delights with intense flavor and smoothness at all of the locations I’ve listed.

So go ahead, find excellent gelato and treat yourself daily – just like the Italians do!

More About Gelato in Italy

The Basics.

Gelato comes from the Italian word for frozen, but let’s be clear, gelato is not just “Italian ice cream.” It is a very discerning product made with a different process and a different philosophy, which is what makes the end result so memorable.

Proper gelato is served a bit warmer than traditional ice cream, so it is less likely to make your teeth hurt or get an ice cream headache, but this higher temperature is also one of the key parts that contributes to the flavor and texture that makes gelato so delicious – more on both below.

There’s a lot you can tell on sight as well. Many of the places with the best gelato will keep it inside opaque metal canisters, and really good gelato does not stay in those intricate mounds that many of the tourist spots will feature.

And where do you find your gelato in Italy? At a gelateria, of course!

Flavor.

Gelato is also unique because it aims to capture seasonal ingredients at peak freshness.

So while your favorite flavor may not be available depending on when you’re in Italy, gelato flavors you may not like in other places are likely to be exceptional when you go. The two flavors that are universally delicious when you’re in Italy are some of the most local – pistachio (which comes from Sicily) and hazelnut, or nocciola (from the northern Piedmont region).

The intensity of gelato is also related to the churning process, which means less air inside compared to ice cream, leading to bolder, more concentrated flavors. And that warmer serving temperature also has that flavor intensifying effect.

Texture.

Gelato is churned differently from ice cream too, going at a slower pace that results in less air getting mixed in and a denser product. The combination of its composition and warmer temperature leads to the elasticity that gives you that perfectly smooth texture as you savor each concentrated bite.

Even if the flavors are wonderful, anything less than a creamy texture will take away from the gelato experience.

It’s good for you!

No, really! Okay, maybe not quite, but you may be surprised with the density and concentrated flavors of gelato that it actually has fewer calories than ice cream. Gelato tends to use more milk than cream and does not involve egg yolks like many ice creams, so there is also less fat involved.

So go ahead, indulge.

Gelato Etiquette.

Honestly, this is probably not much different than your ice cream experience in other countries. It’s completely acceptable to ask for a taste of a few flavors before you decide what to buy, even if there’s a huge line building up behind you.

The size of your gelato will determine how many different flavors you can get. Typically this is well-signed and you’ll see different size cups displayed at the top of the counter, with both the price and number of gusti, or flavors, indicated. In general, a “small” allows you to pick 2 gusti and you’ll need to get at least a “medium” sized one to enjoy 3 different ones.

Also, be ready to state whether you’ll be having your gelato in a cup (coppetta) or cone (cono).

Every gelateria does things its own way, so even if you get a cup, you may be lucky enough to get a mini cone or wafer stuck on top:

Fortunately for all of us, gelaterie deal in volume, so this is a relatively inexpensive snack that won’t break your budget. An afternoon gelato is part of the daily ritual for many Italians, and it can easily be part of yours when you visit.

Like coffee in Italy, you’re likely to be pleasantly surprised about how cheap it is compared to ice cream at home. In most places it costs only €2.50-3 for a small-sized gelato, often going up in increments of just 50 centesimi, or cents – half a Euro.

TIP! Buying gelato is a great time to spend some of the pile of Euro coins you’ve likely accumulated during your visit!

The Best Gelato in Italy – by City

So, let’s get down to it, where do you go for the best spots that aren’t just catering to tourist whims but producing authentic, seasonal, bold, and smooth gelato?

Bergamo

Gelateria Pasticceria Dei Mille

I don’t usually find my favorite gelateria right on the central square, but this spot on the Piazza Vecchia of Bergamo’s elevated upper city delivers. Fruit flavors are super intense with just the right balance to not be too tart or sweet, and the creamy flavors are perfectly smooth. Fancier places will dot your stroll from the funicular or city gate, but it’s worth waiting until you get here to order an afternoon gelato.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Bergamo

Bologna

Cremeria Funivia

I didn’t fall in love with Bologna my first trip, but this was one of the outstanding places that helped change my mind on a return visit. Yes, the gelato really is that delicious. Like many of the spots on this list, they offer both traditional and more inventive flavors, but everything really is outstanding and hits that incredible balance of flavor and texture.

Como

Gelateria Lariana

There are many similar-looking gelato shops along the shore of Lake Como, but this is the only one I return to again and again. Despite its touristy location, the many locals who also stop in tell you that this is just delicious gelato. It is easy to spot with the many people hanging around or stopping to sit outside as they enjoy what I imagine for many is part of their daily routine.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Lake Como

Florence

Gelateria Carraia

Gelato is all about the freshness of the ingredients, and this gelateria calls itself artisanal for a reason. Lots of top gelato lists include this spot as the best in Florence, and I definitely agree. Stroll to the far side of the Arno River from the historical center and don’t be dissuaded by the line you’re likely to encounter. This gelato – especially any one of their signature flavors – is worth the wait!

READ MORE: Where to Eat: Best Bites (& Sips) in Florence, Italy

READ MORE: Where to Stay in Florence

Mantua

Gelateria Loggetta

You’ll see the signs proclaiming the many accolades this gelateria has received, and one taste will have you convinced as well that the awards are well-deserved. It is just so spot on when it comes to flavors and textures. And you’ll have the occasional experimental flavor thrown in with classics done very well.

Milan

Ciacco

There are now a couple of Milan locations of this spot (plus ones in Bergamo and Parma), but after 3 years of living in Milan, I had to put my favorite Milano gelateria in the Milan section, of course. You won’t have to venture far to locate the main Milan outpost just a short stroll from the main Cathedral, Milan’s Duomo. The standards are done exceptionally well, with bold pops of flavor and silky smooth texture you’ll want to savor. There are usually a few seasonal creative flavors to enjoy as well. Possibly my all-time favorite flavor was a savory squash one I enjoyed my last autumn living there:

Il Massimo del Gelato

Are you a chocolate lover? Then this is your gelato heaven. Named the ultimate or maximum (massimo) of gelato, the flavors do not disappoint. In addition to the fruit and nut flavors you’d expect, there are also usually close to a dozen of variations just of chocolate, from different types of chocolate, to mixtures involving orange or different liqueurs. And it’s even better than you’re imagining right now!

READ MORE: Top Aperitivo Spots in Milan

Rome

Gelateria Dei Gracchi

Rome has no shortage of gelato places, so when one is doing well enough to expand to multiple locations, you know it’s delicious. There are several flavors that you won’t find at most spots, but my hands-down favorite is the crema di pinoli, the cream of pine nuts which is perfectly flavored and velvety to devour. Get in line with the local families taking their children after school and find out why it’s their go-to spot in Rome, too.

Fatamorgana Gelato

Many of the gelato flavors you’ll find at Fatamorgana are inventive, from savory flavors to spices and herbs being mixed with your more typical chocolate or fruit base. Sure, there are the more usual flavors here, but many Fatamorgana branches are frequented by locals looking for something that is creative without sacrificing what makes gelato so delicious. It’s not the only creative gelateria I’ve sampled in Rome, but it’s the only one that also creates that perfect gelato texture with its more unusual ingredients.

READ MORE: Best Bites – Where to Eat in Rome

San Gimignano

Gelateria Dondoli

There are two very popular gelato spots on the same piazza in San Gimignano – and both are likely to have lines out the door! Don’t worry though, Dondoli is the one you want. The queue moves fast and you will be treated to some incredibly creative, strong flavors and a silky smooth texture regardless of the flavor you choose. This Gelateria is known for its signature flavors, like the Crema di Santa Fina (with saffron cream and pine nuts) and Champelmo (pink grapefruit and sparkling wine). The view as you enjoy your gelato is pretty great, too:

Venice

Gelatoteca Suso

Venice is probably my least favorite major Italian city for gelato, but the best of all the ones I’ve tried is definitely this spot. The flavors are strong and each bite is smooth to savor, even though visually it looks less smooth than the other place I’ve featured. I also love it for serving gelato with one of its branded wafers, even when you get gelato in a cup.

READ MORE: How to Eat Like a Local in Venice

READ MORE: Venice Cheat Sheet

Verona

Gelateria Savoia

Keeping locals happy in Verona since 1939, this historical gelateria continues to be the go-to spot for locals and with good reason. It is central and in a high-end location, giving just a touch of luxury, and has a wide list of flavors and other sweet treats to keep everyone satisfied.

READ MORE: Visiting Verona – A Romantic Getaway for Valentine’s Day

Gelato may be more complex than you expected, but the good news is that great gelato comes down to two key things – flavor and texture. And given the frequent gelato consumption by Italians, all it takes is a conversation with any locals to get directed to the best gelateria nearby. As good as Italian food is, it’s always worth saving just a little bit of room for this afternoon (or evening) snack.

READ MORE: Top Tips to Avoid Common Mistakes Tourists Make in Italy

Did your favorite gelato in Italy make this list? What other gelato spots do you recommend for my next visit? Is there anything else you look for in a great gelato? I’m always looking to expand my gelato horizons =)

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Summer Reading List
Summer Reading List

June 27, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 2 comments

Summertime means vacation for many, and even though I don’t have any long trips planned for this summer, one of the best ways I relax and unwind is curling up with a good book.

Instead of being stuck with what to read next, I always spend some time in June compiling a Summer Reading List. Whether I take a train or airplane, some of my best reading usually happens in transit – and I like to have a variety of books in mind to keep me entertained.

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2017

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2019

This new Summer Reading List is as eclectic as my travel style, so you’ll find it packed with both fiction and non-fiction, covering my randomly-determined categories of Easy Reading, Memoir, On a More Serious Note, Self Improvement, & Thriller.

Here’s what made it onto my 2018 ‘Summer Reading List’:

EASY READING

Circe

by Madeline Miller

This Greek goddess who is the daughter of Helios breaks out into her own and after being banished by Zeus has some of the more memorable encounters in Greek mythology with the Minotaur, Icarus, and Odysseus. Billed as part-fantasy, part-drama, this will definitely offer an escape to another world.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Kiss Quotient

by Helen Hoang

As a former math teacher (and lifetime math enthusiast!) how could I not already love a book that has quotient in the title?!? The main character uses math to organize her life and decides to hire a professional escort to get her acclimated to everything dating-related. Totally logical, right? I have a feeling I’m going to enjoy this one. Plus, there’s already another book in this series planned for next year.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

When Life Gives You Lululemons

by Lauren Weisberger

The title might be a bit too cute even for me, but after a second book that most people didn’t read, this is the third novel of The Devil Wears Prada series, with former unfavored assistant Emily taking her latest Hollywood image consultant skills to ritzy Connecticut. Sounds like this one is going to be one entertaining read for summer.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

MEMOIR

All Over the Place: Adventures in Travel, True Love, and Petty Theft

by Geraldine DeRuiter

Written by fellow blogger Geraldine DeRuite, this memoir is by someone who describes herself as inherently unsuited to travel . . . but does it anyway. I can’t wait to experience all her misadventures in her several years of traveling the globe and all the ways she gets lost – literally and metaphorically – along the way.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Educated: A Memoir

by Tara Westover

Westover, born to survivalist parents, was nearly 18 years old before she ever attended school or saw a doctor. She was so motivated in her quest for education that it eventually resulted in her earning a PhD from Cambridge University. I can’t wait to experience this most unusual journey vicariously through her eyes.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Priestdaddy: A Memoir

by Patricia Lockwood

Patricia’s father, already married with children, gets unusual approval to become a Catholic priest. And that seems to be the most normal part of her upbringing! The memoir looks back on her childhood and her experience as an adult moving back in with her parents, and all her hilarious observations along the way.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Without You There is No Us: My Time with the Sons of North Korea’s Elite

by Suki Kim

This book is from 2014, but feels incredibly relevant this summer as one of the only available first-hand accounts of what it is like inside North Korea. Kim is an investigative journalist who posed as a missionary to get a position teaching English at Pyongyang University of Science and Technology to the country’s elite. Her novel has been controversial enough that the author addressed the ethics of her being embedded there on her personal website, but regardless of how you feel about her methods, it is one of the few independent accounts available of life on the inside.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

ON A MORE SERIOUS NOTE

American Kingpin

by Nick Bilton

Set around the Dark Web, the underbelly of the internet, a single person created a marketplace for all sort of illicit transactions in 2011. By the time law enforcement finally hears about it, it is a $1 billion unidentified enterprise nearly impossible to take down. The story of the manhunt may sound more like a thriller, but I imagine the possibilities of the evil of the internet will have me thinking some serious thoughts along the way.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

An American Marriage

by Tayari Jones

Once this book got picked as a selection for Oprah’s Book Club, you knew there were some serious ramifications to this story. An American Marriage touches on America’s criminal justice system and wrongful incarceration, and the havoc it can wreak on personal relationships. This one is definitely near the top of my Summer Reading List.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Girls Burn Brighter

by Shobha Rao

On the surface it’s about two teenage friends who become separated and then struggle to find one another again, but along the way the story shifts from India to America and explores issues like extreme poverty and human trafficking. It ultimately seems to be about the friendship between the women though, which is what I find so compelling.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Into the Raging Sea: Thirty-three Mariners, One Megastorm, and the Sinking of the El Faro

by Rachel Slade

After watching a movie that involves an airplane crash while traveling on an airplane (2012’s Flight, in case you’re curious) I have no hesitation reading this highly anticipated book about a giant container ship that went missing in the Bermuda Triangle. Even if I end up reading it while I’m on a boat! More than anything, this strikes me as both a mystery solved and an unsettling look into the modern shipping industry.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Power

by Naomi Alderman

Named The Power because this book envisions a world in which women hold the power, but it seems to be grounded enough in reality that it reveals a lot we don’t necessarily want to see about power dynamics. Apparently terrifying at points when it takes situations to their logical conclusion in this alternate universe, the intersection of power and gender roles is bound to be interesting.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Three Daughters of Eve

by Elif Shafak

This bestselling author who writes in both Turkish and English spins a tale set in Istanbul, where the main character has to reconcile memories from her time abroad at Oxford University with the modern terror attacks taking place in Turkey. Turkey has always been at the crossroads of continents, but this story also seems to explore the far scarier conflict between modernity and tradition, and the violence that results when they clash.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Turtles All the Way Down

by John Green

The teenage main character chases a lavish reward by a billionaire, but the journey serves to unmask someone struggling vividly with mental illness and their attempts to cope. This story sounds like one that will draw me in and I just won’t be able to look away, even as she unravels.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

SELF-IMPROVEMENT

Factfulness: Ten Reasons We’re Wrong About the World – and Why Things Are Better Than You Think

by Hans Rosling, Ola Rosling, and Anna Rosling Rönnlund

When Bill Gates puts a book on his 2018 list of 5 books worth reading this summer, you pay attention, especially when he calls Factfulness “one of the best books I’ve ever read.” The book addresses misconceptions people hold about global trends and how we’re not as bad off as we thought. I am already thinking of it as the 21^st century version of “How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love the Bomb” and hope Rosling changes my outlook for the better.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

THRILLER

The Feather Thief: Beauty, Obsession, and the Natural History Heist of the Century

by Kirk W. Johnson

It’s the only non-fiction one in this category, but this one sounds like a real page-turning thriller. Unusual in that it tells the story of a heist that involved no violence, the American author happens to hear about the rare bird specimens that went missing in England two years prior and then becomes obsessed with the topic, doing his own investigating to find out more about this most unusual theft.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The President is Missing

by Bill Clinton and James Patterson

Who cares what it’s about, former American President Bill Clinton and bestselling author James Patterson wrote a book together! Well, the title kind of gives the premise away anyway, but this a thriller that unfolds over three days that I can’t wait to read.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Wife Between Us

by Greer Hendricks

This seems to me to be in the same vein as Gone Girl by Gillian Flynn, a suspense novel about love and marriage. From the reviews I’ve seen people seem to feel strongly about this one, and I get the feeling I’m going to breeze right through reading it to form an opinion of my own.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Woman in the Window

by A.J. Finn

A recluse in New York City sees something as she looks out her window that causes the whole spiral of the book. I haven’t read many of the details because I’d prefer to be surprised, but this might be the most-hyped book on this list – I’ve had it on hold at the library since March and am only just now in June approaching the top of the list to borrow it to read.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

The Word Is Murder

by Anthony Horowitz

I just read and loved Magpie Murders by the same author and his latest novel came out just a few weeks ago. The action seems to kick off when I woman is strangled just hours after arranging her own funeral. My previous read involved some quaint British mystery-solving in the style of Agatha Christie’s Miss Marple or Arthur Conan Doyle’s Sherlock Holmes, and I can’t wait to see where this one leads.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

Two Girls Down

by Louisa Luna

Two young sisters disappear in a parking lot and their mother hires a bounty hunter and former cop to find them. I’m not sure where this will all lead, but it certainly sounds like an interesting premise that will keep me turning pages to see how it all turns out.

Check out versions and prices HERE.

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2017

READ MORE: Summer Reading List 2019

Where are you headed this summer? Do you know what books you’ll be reading yet? Any great books that didn’t make my list? I love book recommendations, let me know what your favorite summer reads are!

And in case you missed it, my 2017 “Summer Reading List” is HERE.

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9 Top Belgium Travel Tips: What to Know Before You Go!
9 Top Belgium Travel Tips: What to Know Before You Go!

May 9, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 28 comments

My recent visit was not my first trip to Belgium, but I felt like there was so much that I had forgotten from previous visits. Belgium is a great country to visit, being both bicycle- and pedestrian-friendly, and boasting some pretty wonderful cuisine and the drinks to wash it down.

In between strolling quaint cobblestone streets in medieval city centers, I couldn’t help but jot down some notes of those key things you’ll want to know before you go – after making countless mistakes myself of course!

So (in alphabetical order), here are my top Belgium Travel Tips, with things you should know before you go:

Beer

Beer in Belgium is stronger than you think. No, really! While the average Alcohol-By-Volume or ABV of beer is 4.5%, most Belgian beers are over that amount, many at double the alcohol content or more. On this list of top Belgian beers, every beer listed is over 4.5% and half of them clock in at 8% or higher. Keep track of how strong the beer is that you ordered so you don’t drink too much, too quickly (unless you want to, of course) – this isn’t like your beer drinking back home.

Bicycles

Much of central and northern Europe is filled with bicycles, and this is true of Belgium as well. Even if you live in a bike-friendly city, bike riding in Belgium is likely on a whole other scale. Watch out, as some cyclists pedal so fast that you may not hear them coming. And remember to look both ways everywhere as I almost got run over on my recent visit by a bicycle going the wrong way on a one-way street. Bike lanes sometimes look similar to sidewalks, so you might find yourself unwittingly strolling in a bike lane if you’re not paying attention as you walk – this is definitely a country to remain aware of your surroundings!

City Cards

If there’s a city in Belgium, there’s likely to be a combination city card you can purchase that will gain you access to multiple attractions, like churches and museums, and at a discount compared to paying for each. While I expected the Antwerp Card and Bruges Card and Brussels Card and Ghent Card, I was surprised to learn that even many small towns have a pass of their own.

Do take the time to research which sights are covered, how long the pass lasts, and the cost, to decide if it makes sense for you. For me on my recent trip to Belgium, the small-town Leuven Card was worth purchasing but in Ghent I wasn’t planning to go to enough of the museums listed, so it made more sense for me to buy my entries one at a time there.

TIP! Buy the card in advance if it includes any public transportation you’re planning to take, otherwise it’s usually available for purchase at any of the included tourist sites without an extra stop.

Closure Days

If you’ve done a bit of travel around Europe already, you may be familiar with many attractions and museums being closed on a Monday. Something I also noticed in Belgium this time around is that quite a lot of things are *also* closed on Wednesday. I spent my latest Wednesday in Belgium in Ghent, and lots of museums there were completely closed, from the City Museum to the Design Museum. Even the restaurant where I tried to eat lunch (and is usually open for lunch!) had no lunch service on a Wednesday.

READ MORE: How to Spend One Day in Ghent, Belgium

TIP! Plan around closures for a multi-day visit

TIP! A walking tour is always a great way to see a city on a day many attractions will be closed.

Languages

Belgium is a country made up of many language regions, so what language will be primarily spoken and visible on street and highway signs will depend on where you are exactly. The north of Belgium is primarily Flemish speaking (also known as Flemish Dutch), similar to what is spoken in the nearby Netherlands. The southern half is typically French speaking, and there are a few German-speaking regions in the far eastern section of the country.

While you don’t need to learn all those language to visit, it is always helpful to practice some key words and phrases in the language that will be where you plan to travel. Even some basic vocabulary to aid with street signs, or learning the words for ‘Entrance’ and ‘Exit’ can help your travel go more smoothly, especially if you will be driving in Belgium.

READ MORE: Top Tips for Taking a Road Trip in Europe

And the good news is, English is spoken (at least a little) nearly everywhere. Even in the smaller towns, most restaurants are likely to have an English menu. If you don’t see one displayed, just ask.

Luggage Lockers

Depending on your exact itinerary and travel plans, you may end up wanting to do some sightseeing with your luggage in tow, either when you first arrive or are departing, or are in between cities. Fortunately, many train stations across Belgium – even in smaller towns – will have lockers at your disposal. And for my first destination after arriving at Brussels airport and heading to the small town of Leuven, I was able to check ahead of time online to confirm that lockers would be available.

TIP! Have Euro coins handy, as my luggage locker cost 5 Euros for the day and did not accept bills or cards.

TIP! I had issues getting my locker to work at first – and nearly gave up! – so would recommend trying a different section of the lockers if you have trouble at first and also reading the instructions listed (even if they’re in Flemish and you have to translate on your phone). In the end I had to hold the door shut for 3 seconds before it automatically locked and put the prompt up on the screen for me to insert payment and get my receipt.

Restaurant Meals

Even separate from the typical Monday and Wednesday closures across Belgium (see ‘Closure Days’ section above), I encountered a lot of restaurants that were only open for dinner during the week and had no lunch service. As my previous Belgium travel was centered around weekends, this was definitely a surprise of my most recent visit. Be aware that you may be limited in your dining options, especially on day trips, if you don’t stay through dinnertime.

Transit Tickets

The transit system in Belgium is quite convenient, but is centered around making your purchase with a debit or credit card, and you may have trouble using the automated machines unless you have a card with a PIN. While PIN-based debit cards are standard for Europeans, if you don’t have a PIN on your credit card from elsewhere, try your debit card instead (assuming it has a PIN). Otherwise, build in extra time to find a staffed counter and wait in what will likely be a longer line to be able to pay in cash.

TIP! Any train trip that is to or from Brussels airport will be higher than usual because it includes a surcharge that is added to all trips that begin or end there. So keep this in mind to determine your most economical option when planning your itinerary.

Waffles

Yes, Belgians may be known for their waffles – but these may be harder to find than you’d expect! Across my Belgium visits, I had the easiest time finding fresh waffles made-to-order in Brussels. During the week especially, fresh waffles were harder to come by. So be on the lookout if you’re looking to sample some during your trip.

TIP! When in doubt, if you haven’t found fresh waffles elsewhere, you can usually get some at a stand at the train station.

TIP! I am partial to the Liege style waffle which is a thick dough covered in sugar that gets pressed in a waffle iron. If you’re getting a waffle fresh in Belgium, be sure to try this one!

Belgium has a wealth of amazing sights and architecture to explore, plus there’s all that world-famous beer and chocolate and waffles wherever you go. There are wonderful towns and cities to visit and I’d definitely make another return trip to check out more.

From the many cities and towns I’ve already been to in my travels, these tips are pretty universal, so will be helpful regardless of where in Belgium you plan your trip.

Happy travels!

Lana

Have you been to Belgium before? Is there any other advice you would give to someone who is planning a visit? Anything else you’d like to know before you book a Belgium trip? Share your best Belgium travel tips and ask away in the ‘Comments’ below!

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Practical Tips: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel
Practical Tips: How to Find the Best Restaurants When You Travel

April 11, 2018 Lana @TravelSavvyGal Comments 22 comments

Most people want to eat well on the road, but exactly how to find the best restaurants when you travel can be a tricky endeavor. Most travel destinations are inherently unfamiliar, and restaurants may not operate the way things do “back home,” wherever that is.

Fortunately there are quite a few strategies I’ve picked up in my travels over the years. Not anything is perfectly foolproof, but there are many way to maximize the chances you will be eating fabulous food when you travel.

What to Do

There are plenty of things you can actively do, both before and during a trip, to steer yourself toward delicious restaurants wherever you’ll be visiting. If eating well is a priority for you when you travel, here are a few things to do to ensure you’re eating your best!

Before You Go

Preparation goes a long way when it come to eating well on the road. Here are some specific ways I find great restaurant options in advance:

Research restaurant options ahead of time

Whether your preference is to flip through a physical guidebook or read blog posts online, take the time to research what restaurants are serving great food for you to check out. This is also a great time to keep an eye out for local specialties that are mentioned so you can do some additional searching for the best spots to sample them. It’s also important to plot restaurants on a map, so you know what other sights and activities are nearby.

TIP! Do enough research that you have at least one option in the different areas of the city or town you’ll visit.

TIP! If there are several recommended restaurants close to one another, when I am there in person I will walk by all of the options, read the menus, peek inside, and then decide where to go.

TIP! Sometimes there are great options far out of the city center, which may not be feasible if you have time constraints, so figure out in advance whether you need other closer restaurant options or will make the trek.

Read online restaurant reviews

This seems basic, but not all online reviews are created equal. In recent years, I have found that Google reviews tend to be relatively accurate, with many locals usually contributing, and there is the added convenience of having reviews in other languages automatically being translated into yours. Plus, if you search Google.com for “best restaurants in Venice,” you can then filter by rating, seeing only the results that are rated 4.0+ or 4.5+ out of 5 possible stars.

I tend to use it less for popular places, but if you are headed to a more off-the-beaten path destination, TripAdvisor is a great site to use. And especially for destinations that are not typically popular with tourists, it may be the only resource at your disposal. I found restaurant review information to be very limited on my recent work trip to Haiti, and

A post shared by Lana Cohen (@travelsavvygal) on Feb 24, 2018 at 5:55am PST

Do targeted online searches

This is one of the best ways I’ve found to identify great restaurants to check out when I visit a new place. Instead of sticking to lists with blanket restaurant recommendations, I look for something specific in that place:

“<city/country name> foodie”
“<city/country name> best local dishes”
“Best Brunch in Sydney”
“Best Coffee in Detroit”
“Best White Rose Dumplings in Hoi An”
“Best Cardamom Buns in Stockholm”

TIP! Also do targeted searches in the local language if it’s not English. It’s easy to use an online dictionary to translate so instead of looking for “Florentine steak in Florence” you’re finding the Italian results by looking for “bistecca alla fiorentina Firenze.” (This is how I found my favorite place in Florence to get this local specialty!)

Ask locals or frequent visitors

Even if you don’t think you have any connection to a place you’re traveling, you might be surprised. While I didn’t know any locals in Barcelona, Spain or Port-au-Prince, Haiti, a friend-of-a-friend was a frequent Barcelona visitor with great recommendations and I was steered in the right direction by my friend’s aunt who visits Haiti often to do non-profit work. In both cases, I had no idea I had a connection – until I asked.

Reserve some restaurants in advance

If there is a place you’ll definitely want to go, it may be worth it (or necessary!) to book your meal in advance. Certain countries rely on reservations more than others and it is also helpful for any popular, high-end restaurants you may be considering, like something from the list of The World’s 50 Best Restaurants or the most popular Michelin-starred restaurants in a major city.

TIP! Be flexible with what time you’re willing to reserve and consider lunch as an option to increase your chances of obtaining a hard-to-get reservation.

During Your Trip

Sure, preparation is great, but it’s nothing compared to actually being at a destination. There are also plenty of things you can do once you arrive to find the best restaurants and eat well:

Ask at your accommodation

Whether you’re staying at a hotel or an AirBNB, either the concierge or your host probably has great information about the local dining options. In both cases, if there’s something specific you’re looking for (think trendy, or authentic, or a particular cuisine), they can probably help. When in Verona, Italy, I had Osteria da Ugo recommended to me at my hotel when I was looking for local cuisine and it became my go-to restaurant there for return visits.

Ask a local for recommendations

This doesn’t need to be a formal process, but every local you encounter – from asking for directions to taking a taxi ride – is a potential source of great local intel about the best restaurants. I got some great restaurant pointers from someone I met admiring a mural in San Ignacio, Belize.

TIP! Be sure not to just ask for a blanket restaurant recommendation, because you may just have the local suggest the fanciest tourist spot in town they think will be good for a tourist. Instead, be specific with your request. If you want somewhere local, ask where the taxi drivers hang out or locals go.

Keep your eyes open as you stroll

You may already be on the path that will take you to the best food of your trip. Keep an eye out for long winding lines of locals like you’ll see at popular spots like Luini Panzerotti in Milan, Italy, or an appetizing item from a street vendor, like my favorite panelle (fried pancakes made with chick pea flour) in Palermo, Sicily or an amazing local buffet I sampled in Colombo, Sri Lanka.

TIP! Even if it’s not mealtime or you’ve already eaten, keep an eye out to see where locals are gravitating or if you see a cute spot you want to mark on a map to return to for a meal later.

Try out restaurants with a menu you can’t understand

Be adventurous and don’t let a restaurant dissuade you even if there’s no English menu in sight. I had some of my best European meals at restaurants in Mainz, Germany Vienna, Austria and Liechtenstein that all only had German menus but were otherwise inviting. Usually there was a server who could help me to figure things out.

TIP! When in doubt, try dishes or drinks you don’t know the name for. If you see something that looks appetizing, pointing still works for communicating that to a server. Or that time in Bruges, Belgium I picked my beer based on its cool glass, and it turns out I like how Kwak tastes as well!

Follow Your Instincts

No matter how much research you’ve done or how good the online reviews say a restaurant will be, ultimately you need to trust your instincts. On a day trip to Orvieto, Italy from Rome, I had identified a few restaurants as possible lunch options. However as I walked past each in turn during my morning exploring and peeked at their menus, I was not particularly inspired. Another restaurant along the way looked cute and seemed to have special local dishes I hadn’t seen on any other menus, so I went there instead of the places on my list and had an incredible meal!

READ MORE: How to Eat Well When You Travel Solo

What to Avoid

While there are plenty of things to seek out, there are also quite a view things that I try to avoid when I travel so I can also avoid having a disappointing restaurant experience. There’s always a limited number of meals you’ll get to experience wherever you’re visiting a destination– and I like to make them the best meals I can!

Things that will make me look for another place to eat:

A “Tourist Menu” or big signboard with multiple menu translations

In all likelihood, I can get a foreigners’ version of a local dish back at home. When I’m on the road, I’m looking to taste the authentic food of a city or country as one of the ways I learn about the destination, not getting something that’s been altered to fit tourists’ tastes.

Being right next to major tourist attractions

Any restaurant that is immediately adjacent to a major tourist attraction has no incentive to produce good food. It will have customers looking for a restaurant out of convenience regardless. So even if I am trying to find a convenient meal, I will walk at least a block or two away for what are likely better and more reasonably priced dining options. This strategy paid large dividends in Berat, Albania:

Hearing lots of English and not the local language

While I wouldn’t expect customers anywhere to be completely comprised of locals, hearing an overwhelming amount of English being spoken somewhere (if it’s not the local language) may mean that a restaurant is catering to foreigners and not locals. Any good restaurant will still attract locals even if there are a lot of tourists who eat there as well.

Greeters posted at the street offering you menus and inviting you in

Maybe that’s how it happens in the movies, but in real life, the best restaurants are always busy and don’t need to work so hard to entice people in. I often see this in my travels along pedestrian streets where all the restaurants are virtually indistinguishable and can only attract business by paying someone to stand outside and usher in customers. A better meal is likely waiting at a restaurant that does not need to do this.

Unsanitary appearance

If something looks off when you first approach a location, take that as a sign that the restaurant does not take great care with its food either. If I see somewhere that is excessively dirty or has visible bugs or animal droppings, I don’t stick around to find out what the food is like. Even if I’ve already sat down.

A restaurant that is not that busy

Certainly there are exceptions to this one – if you are eating earlier or later than typical meal time, for example – but in general if a restaurant is pretty deserted, there is a reason for that. Again, it depends on the context, but even if a spot got great reviews and is on my list, if I walk up and it doesn’t look popular, I am likely to go elsewhere.

Of course, none of these strategies is completely effective, but by doing research in advance and keeping an eye out as I visit a new place, the chances are much greater that I will be finding the best restaurants and eating well on my trip.

What do you look for when picking a restaurant in your travels? Any other things you seek out or avoid? Share your best tips in the ‘Comments’ below!

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